Contents

Odd

OddSpring / Summer 2012

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Two

Sven Hoppe LCF MA ‘10.

Credits

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PicturesWords

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF / Gemma Kirk

CREATIVE DIRECTOR / Gemma Kirk

ART DIRECTOR / Liam Smith

CONTRIBUTING WRITER / Gemma Kirk

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS / Mark Dorrian / Scott Schuman

Garance Dore / Vanessa Jackman / Tommy Ton / Todd Selby

Odd is published by Gemma Kirk Ltd. To subscribe please telephone +44 (0)20 3278 0220 (UK)

Reproduction of any part of this publication is strictly prohibited without prior permission from the publishers

including all logos, titles and graphic elements. All rights reserved © 2011. Printed in the United Kingdom.

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Wouter Baartmans LCF MA ‘10.

An examination into why genetic changes in human DNA, resulting in physical

deformities that necessitate radical alterations to garments have inspired designers

to focus on the exaggeration or minimisation of certain elements of a garment to

produce a ‘look’ which occasionally shocks but sometimes dictates a trend.

“Know thyself, pathologically, what a fragile bubble you are; and exposed to a

thousand calamities. If you understand these things, you are a man and a genus very

distinct from all the others.” - Armand Marie (Date unkown, page unknown)

Our DNA, the hereditary material of life, affects how we look, how we behave

and our physiology. A code-change (or mutation) in the DNA of a single body cell

or a number of body cells can cause minor, and in some cases major changes

in many aspects of an organism’s life. Human genetic mutations have fascinated

scientists since the mid-nineteenth century in a continued endeavour to both uncover

and develop an understanding of the evolution of our species.

When searching the word mutation in the dictionary, the definition “the deletion,

insertion, or rearrangement of larger sections of genes or chromosomes” sums up

perfectly how I have investigated my silhouette on a mannequin. I have deleted,

inserted and rearranged parts of garments to ‘mutate’ them.

Enjoy the magazine. - Gemma Kirk.

Editor’s Letter

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Genetic Changes in Human DNAA Thousand Calamities

Rick Owens Givenchy via Dis Mag Shoulder Dysmorphia

The central theme of this collection is the exploration of the more extreme human DNA

mutations which often lead to physical differences that are regarded as abnormal

or ‘freakish’. In such cases, radical alterations to classic garments are a necessity to

disguise deformity.

DNA

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Physical Differences‘Freakish’

Cigouave via fuckyeahgoths.tumblr.com

Tailored shorts from the 1930s to the modern day could be worn by Johnny Eck

to hide his shortened torso and lack of legs.

Shorts

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Johnny Ecksub

Above: By Scott Schuman, The Sartorialist - thesartorialist.blogspot.comOpposite: Image taken from the Johnny Eck Museum

Shorts and cropped trousers fitting people with little or no legs.

Shorts

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Subsub

Above: By Scott Schuman, The Sartorialist - thesartorialist.blogspot.comOpposite: Illustration by Tripleeyelidsart

Samantha Edwards creates a disproportionate silhouette with an exaggerated right

shoulder like that of the suits worn by John Merrick.

The Elephant Man

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Johnny Ecksub

Above: Samantha Edwards LCF MA ‘07Opposite: John Merrick the ‘Elephant Man’

Rick Owens McQueen via Dis Mag Shoulder DysmorphiaRick Owens Rick Owens via Dis Mag Shoulder Dysmorphia

Shoulder Dysmorphia

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Exaggerated shoulders of Dis Magazine’s ‘Shoulder Dysmorphia’ (see previous

page) hidden by Ruth Costello’s oversized, slouchy blazer and the padded shoulders

by Raf Simons.

Eighteen

Ruth Costellovia F Tape Roar Talent

Raf Simons Autumn / Winter 2009 Raf Simons Spring / Summer 2010

As part of Commes des Garcons S/S ‘11 show Kawakubo seems to have emulated

the positioning of Siamese twins Daisy and Violet, known as the ‘Texas Siamese

Twins’.

Siamese Twins

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Subsub

Taken from The Sartorialist - thesartorialist.blogspot.comAll garments by Commes des Garcons SS ‘11.

Tom Browne too in his A/W ‘09 collection seems to have taken inspiration from

Conjoined Twins.

Siamese Twins

Twenty Four

Odd Taken from The Sartorialist - thesartorialist.blogspot.comAbove: All garments by Thom Browne AW ‘09

Opposite: Illustration by Tripleeyelidsart

Kenny Easterday (above) has oversized shoulders and arms to help him move around

but it can also be seen used in the opposite image for fashion purposes.

Shoulders

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Subsub

Taken from The Sartorialist - thesartorialist.blogspot.comAbove: Taken from M O O D - http://haw-lin.com

Opposite: Kenny Easterday

Another example of how exaggerated shoulders in particular can be used in garments.

Altered proportions and exaggerated elements within garments now form part of

what are often applauded as innovative, exciting and ground-breaking design

classics. Some designers push the boundaries and demonstrate that whilst slightly

exaggerated elements within garments may be controversial and interesting visually,

wearable and current looks can be created.

Shoulders

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Examples in fashion

Image source unknown

Colour Palette

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In the 1920s and 30’s when sideshow acts were at the height of popularity,

fashionable colours to be seen in were beige, brown, navy blue, grey and light blue.

Fabric Swatches

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Krivo Blazer

Thirty Four

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Toile Development

needs lining

get rid of vent

waistcoat over blazer look

Krivo Shirt

Thirty Eight

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Toile Development

double collar placement sew 2 shirt patterns end to end

button stand all the way around bo

th raw edges

add sleeves

shape outside to make it more interesting

Merrick Shirt

Forty

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Toile Development

too much fabric

interesting shape flat

too straight and long

make much tighter, twistier and add collar

make into shirt?

Forty Two

Distortion of the human form through the introduction of greatly exaggerated or

unexpected shapes into garments results in fascinating, questioning and sometimes

disturbing images which often echo the real-life struggles faced by those living with

some sort of genetic mutation.

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Merrick Trench Coat

Forty Four

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Toile Development

take up and in

sleeve too bunched

add belt

define facings

shoulders too big

Forty Six

A softly sculpted silhouette which is wearable, comfortable and visually exciting. In

essence; to enable extremes to be cloaked in subtlety.

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Pleated Berry Trousers

Forty Eight

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Toile Development

lower waistband more and shorten legs

take in at hips

lower waistband more and add pleats

Fifty

Use of fabrics with a variety of textures and patterns support and exaggerate the

important ‘mutated’ features of each garment to create an overall look which provokes

interest from the onlooker but provides confidence to the wearer.

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Tocci Shirt

Fifty Two

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Toile Development

neck through different neck line

leave loose and add opening at

front

sew up 2 of the neck lines

take in draping

squint neckline and coll

ar

Tocci Blazer

Fifty Six

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Toile Development

take in under left s

leeve and add right

sleeve

round off edges of front

Top Shapes

Sixty

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Sixty Two

Final OutfitsOutfit 1

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Sixty Four

Final OutfitsOutfit 2

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Sixty Six

Final OutfitsOutfit 3

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Sixty Eight

Final OutfitsOutfit 4

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Seventy

Final OutfitsOutfit 5

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Seventy Two

Final OutfitsOutfit 6

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Seventy Four

Line Up

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Range Plan

1 Pleated Berry Trouser

2 Pleated Avery Trouser

3 Pleated Eck Shorts

4 Straight Berry Trousers

5 Straight Avery Trousers

6 Straight Eck Shorts

7 Merrick Shirt

8 Krivo Shirt

9 Tocci Shirt

10 Merrick Jumper

11 Krivo Cardigan

12 Tocci Jumper

13 Tocci Blazer

14 Krivo Blazer

15 Merrick Trench

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Seventy Six

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7

8

9

4

6

3

5

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10

11

12

13

14

15

Lookbook

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OddSpring / Summer 2012

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