Introduction:

Hello, my name is Steve Good. I am the author of the Scrollsaw Workshop Blog. Seven years ago I started the blog and today it is read by thousands of scroll saw enthusiasts all over the world. The blog is dedicated to helping new hobbyist learn the craft and providing free patterns for all.

I live in Lexington Kentucky with my wife Patty and our best friend Holly, a Multipoo puppy. We have a wonderful daughter Kellie, whom has now moved out making my wife and I empty nesters.

The second editions of my Wooden Vases on the Scroll Saw book has been fun to produce. It’s has taken many hours but I believe the work has paid off. There are not only different vase designs but different finishing techniques to choose from. Techniques include polymer clay inlay, pyrography, metallic paint, wood applique as well as fretwork.

The instructions to complete the vases begin on page 47.

The construction technique is very simple but the results are admired by anyone who sees them. I have had multiple email about the vases in the first edition selling well at Arts and Crafts shows. They also make wonderful gifts for friends and family.

You may wish to start out with one of the simpler vases like The Shanghai. After you get the process down building the multi layered Tokyo can give you a show piece that your customers and friends will wonder how you did somethinh so beautiful. Thank You.

1

Table of Contents

The Calcutta

The Atlanta

The New York

The Los Angeles

The Paris

The Tokyo

The Shanghai

The Cairo

Pages 2-5

Pages 6-10

Pages 11-16

Pages 17-19

Pages 20-23

Pages 24-36

Pages 37-41

Pages 42-46

2

The Calcutta

Intermediate level vase. Three layers with intricate fretwork.

3

1” ThickCenter Layer

Any of the vases can be made thicker or thinnerby adding or subtracting center layers.

4

1/4” Thick

5

1/4” Thick

6

This vase shows the polymer clay inlay technique.There are two different type of polymer clay that canbe used. The brand I prefer is FIMO. The techniqueinvolves filling the fretwork with the ovenhardened clay then sanding flush afterbaking. Here is a link to a video showing theprocess. https://youtu.be/emcGkyx1svk

Easy level project requiring minimal fretwork. You canskip the polymer clay inlay for an even easier project.

The Paris

7

1/4” Thick

8

1/4” Thick

9

3/4” Thick

This vase has two center layers for thickness.

10

3/4” Thick

This vase has two center layers for thickness.

11

This vase has plenty of room to test your pyrography skills.I have included four different patterns to decorate your vase. Simply use carbon paper to trace the pattern on to the finishedvase. Use a good quality wood burning iron for best results.

Easy level project. Don’t be overly picky about yourpyrography skills. The vase is suppose to look rustic.This vase is also a good candidate to personalize withcustom fret work. Skip the wood burning and add thenames and date of newly weds as an example

The Atlanta

12

1” thick

13

1/4” Thick

14

1/4” Thick

15

Pyrography Patterns.Center on the vase.

16

Pyrography Patterns.Center on the vase.

17

Easy Level. Simple fret work and nottoo difficult to sand.

The New York

18

1” Thick

19

1/4” Thick

20

There are several different metallic and textured paintson the market. This vase was painted with gold metallic paint.

Before you apply a metallic paint make sure you sandthe wood to at lease 320 grit. It need to be smooth.

You can use an inexpensive wood like poplar if you aregoing to paint it. Some wood like pine don’t paint well so

choose carefully.

Very easy project. Simple wood applique pattern andeasy to sand.

The Los Angeles

21

1” Thick

22

1/8” Thick

1/4” Thick

23

1/4” Thick

24

A large vase that really stands out. This is my favorite. Iincluded and alternate pattern for the vase if you prefer

a flower motif. This vase is over 14 inches tall. The patternis cut to make it fit the page. You have to tape the pattern

up before you apply it to the wood. Tape carefully so everything lines up.

Intermediate to Advanced level. The center is three layersthick so the glue up can be tedious. Glue in stages to

it is easier to clamp. Carefully align the layers as you clamp.The better your glue up the less sanding. The sanding onthis vase will take some time and effort but the results are

worth the time.

The Tokyo

25

1” Thick

26

1” Thick

27

1” Thick

28

1” Thick

29

1” Thick

30

1” Thick

31

3/8” Thick

32

3/8” Thick

33

3/8” Thick

34

3/8” Thick

35

Alternate Design

3/8” Thick

36

Alternate Design

3/8” Thick

37

Easy Level project. Very ease to cut and sand.

This is a good starter project to get the process down.

The Shanghai

38

1” Thick

39

1” Thick

40

1/4” Thick

41

1/4” Thick

42

The Cairo

This vase shows a carved wood applique. The patternfor the applique is included. Cut the design on you sawthen use a dremel tool or carving tools to give it a hand

carved look. Just glue on the applique to the finished vase.

Intermediate Level. The vase is easy but the carving mightbe a challenge. Practice a while and you will get good results.

43

1” Thick

44

1/4” Thick

45

1/4” Thick

46

1/8” Thick.

47

I will use The Ariel for the instructions.The technique is the same for all the vases.

Video instructions available at this link.http://youtu.be/pTdH1s5VzFo

48

Print out and cut the pattern for the vase.

Prepare the wood.

49

Apply blue painters tape to the wood. Helps in removingthe pattern and lubricationd the blade.

Drill the interior holes on the front fretwork.

50

Cut the center section first. Stay on the line. This will makesanding easier.

Cut out the center section. The bottom is thick to help the vase from tipping over.

51

On the front and back pieces cut just outside the pattern line.This will reduce the amount of sanding.

Cut out the interior cuts on the front of the vase.

52

Remove the pattern.

Sant off any fuzzies.

53

Glue the center section. Get good coverage.

Glue on the front. Turn the piece over and glue the back.

54

Clamp the pieces up. Be careful to keep thingslined up. Remember the front and back are slightly oversized. After the glue dries your ready to remove

the clamps and start sanding.

55

Use a drum sander in your drill press or a spindle sander.You want the edges all completely flush. The goal to to feelno ridges. You might want to start out by hand sanding with80 grit to knock down the edges quickly then go through the

grits until it is smooth.

56

Flatten the top and bottom. Use sand paper on a flatsurface. Move the vase back and forth until it is perfectly

flat. Do the top and bottom.

57

If you have a disk sander use it to flatten the topand bottom. Be careful that the vase standd straight

when you are finished.

Very important step. We want to round over the edges. Use a routertable if you have one. Just round over to the joint between the layers.

Only do the sides. Do the front and back.

58

Finish sanding to smooth everything out. Remove any burn marksleft from the router. The better job you do here then better the

vase will look.

If you don’t have a router table you can hand route the edges. If that’snot an option then you will have to hand sand the roundover. Just take

your time and make it look nice.

59

You can use any technique to finish the vase you like. I use a bathin Lemon Oil first. I wipe the excess off with paper towels. The it

drip dries for about and hour or until its dry.

60

For a final coat I use spray acrylic. It dries fast and if you use litecoats you can get a nice smooth high gloss finish.

You can get very nice looking vases by using constrating woodsfor the center section, front and back. Another technique that I

will discuss in detail in Volumn Two is using inlay material in thefretwork.

You can also use the blank back to design your own fretworkto make a unique vase. Just use your imagination and get great

results.

Video instructions available at this link.http://youtu.be/pTdH1s5VzFo