Pocket Nappy Gusset Tutorial

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Copyright © 2009 by Kira Jessup (DIYNappies.info)

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TUTORIAL

Making a Pocket Nappy With Internal Gussets BEFORE YOU BEGIN

Firstly, making pocket nappies (or any nappy for that matter) with gussets is very time consuming, much more so than making them without gussets.

BUT, the end result is fabulous and really can’t be beaten for containing explosive baby poo. I suggest you only cut out and make ONE nappy to begin

with to see if you really want to expend the time and energy in making numerous nappies with gussets.

Secondly, I did not create this method for making gussets, I have simply modified another version made for pocket nappies by someone else for my

own purposes and therefore do not wish to take credit for someone else’s work . My pattern however, is still entirely my own creation and is

unavailable to the general public at the current time. The original gusset tutorial and creator can be found online at:

http://diaperdivas.proboards57.com/index.cgi?board=sticky&action=display&thread=3659 There may be patent issues regarding the commercial

sale of nappies containing a gusset so please ensure you do a thorough patent/trademark check before attempting to sell any nappies using these

tutorials. Note: I do not have a patent but have been informed that there are patents pending in the US.

Thirdly, you will need your own pattern to make this nappy. If you haven’t already got a pattern you wish to use, I have read that the Mama Bird

pattern is good for adding gussets due to the extra width in the crotch.

Finally, I suggest you pick a time when there will be no interruptions by little people (or even big people for that matter) as it really does require

some concentration the first, second and third times you make them.

OK, LET’S GET STARTED

To make a pocket nappy you will need the following items:

• Sewing Machine

• Scissors

• Pins

• Fabric marker

• Thread in colours to match both the inner

and outer of the nappy

• Absorbent material (cotton, hemp, or

bamboo)

• Polyurethane laminate (PUL) or other

waterproof material

• Fleece or cotton outer material (optional) *

• Microfleece, suedecloth or another fabric for

lining the inner of the nappy (optional)

• Fasteners: Velcro/applix/touch tape or

snaps. I find nappies with snaps are less

fiddly to make.

* Whilst cotton outer prints look nice/pretty, be aware that they do tend to wick around the legs and back of the nappy.

MAKING YOUR POCKET NAPPY

1. Following your pattern, cut out

a. Your outer material (waterproof material and

fleece/cotton if using it) ensuring you add a separate flap

at the back of the nappy to enclose the back elastic and

form the pocket (see photo 1) if your pattern doesn’t

already include it. Allow at least 1.5cm or more for

this.

2. Cut out the inner liner of the fabric (which may be another

layer of absorbent fabric if you would rather have more natural

fibres against baby’s bum) PHOTO 2: Moving inner fabric in from

the fold an additional 4-5 cm (about 2 inches) for the gussets, pin the pattern to the fabric (note this was an

AIO so there is no flap at the back, don’t forget this flap for your pocket nappy!).

PHOTO 1




3. Mark the centre of the front and back of each piece (this will come in

handy later) and elastic markings.

4. PHOTOS 3&4: If using snaps as the fasteners, attach the socket snaps at

the front of the nappy, onto the outer layers only, now before you sew

pieces together. Make sure you back the snaps with scrap pieces of PUL

to help reinforce them if only using a single outer layer. Do not attach the

wing snaps just yet.

5. PHOTO 5: If using Velcro/applix/touchtape etc. please sew on the hook to the outer front

of the nappy now.

6. PHOTO 6: Pin around the edges of the nappy (in the seam allowance if possible) starting at

the sides (legs).

7. PHOTO 7: Figure out where you want your gusset to go and fold the fabric outwards

towards the edge of the nappy. Pin out of the way.

8. PHOTO 8: Beginning at the back of the nappy at the side of the pocket, start by sewing

around the entire edge of the nappy, securing the back and front together. Stop sewing

when to reach the other side of the pocket opening. (NOTE: you can sew the leg elastic in

as you go in this step but this is advised for experienced sewers only)

9. You should have an opening at the back of the nappy for turning.

10. Turn inside out and push out all the sewn edges. Check there are no holes etc now and if there are, turn inside

out again and fix it.

PHOTO 2

PHOTOS 3 & 4

PHOTO 5

PHOTOS 6, 7 & 8




11. Reposition and pin your gussets, this time with the excessive fabric facing inwards.

12. Now you need to sew the leg and gusset elastic casings. Using your marks as a guide, start with the leg casings

first (making sure you switch thread on the bobbin to match the outer of the nappy). Depending upon the

width of your elastic, sew in about 1-1.5cm from the edge of the nappy between markings.

13. When both legs are done, switch the thread in the bobbin to match the inner of the nappy.

14. Again, allowing 1-1.5cm from the edge of the gusset, sew between markings on the gusset (if you haven’t

marked the gusset, get a ruler and lie it between the top markings for the leg and mark, and then again for the

bottom). Make sure the nappy is pulled out of the way so you don’t accidentally catch it.

15. PHOTOS 12 & 13 (Note, these are from an AIO so no pocket but the same method applies here): Now you have

4 casings ready to thread with elastic. To figure out how much you will need for each casing, as a rough guide I

lay the elastic flat, un-stretched, between markings for one leg. I add about 1-2 inches (depending upon how

stretchy the elastic is) and then cut the elastic. I then cut another one the same length and then cut these 2

pieces in half, so you end up with 4 pieces.

16. Switch the thread in the bobbin back to match the outer of the nappy.

17. PHOTO 14: Put a safety pin on each end of a piece of elastic and thread through

the outer leg casing. Having one each end means that if the other end

accidentally gets pulled into the casing you can easily thread it back out again.

18. Making sure the safety pin is out of the way; sew down the first end of the

elastic (closest to the FRONT of the nappy).

19. Pull the other end through making sure the safety pin is just out of the way, and sew the other end down.

20. Remove the 2 safety pins from the elastic.

21. Repeat steps 17-20 for the other leg.

PHOTOS 12 & 13

PHOTO 14




22. Switch the thread in the bobbin back to match the inner of the nappy.

23. Put a safety pin on each end of a piece of elastic and thread through the gusset.

24. Making sure the safety pin is out of the way; sew down the first end of the elastic (closest to the FRONT of the

nappy).

25. Pull the other end through making sure the safety pin is just out of the way, and sew the other end down.

26. Remove the 2 safety pins from the elastic.

27. Repeat steps 25-28 for the other gusset.

28. Switch the thread in the bobbin back to the outer nappy colour. We now need to sew in the back elastic.

29. PHOTO 15: Fold down the flap for the outer back elastic and sew a casing.

30. Using safety pins as before, insert your back elastic through the casing and

sew the ends closed.

31. You now need to do the same for the inner. Note that if the end of the

gussets is inside the back elastic casing, you have two options:

a. Not worry about them and sew a casing as normal

b. Keep the ends folded to form a “catcher” at the back (not necessary

but this is how I do it). This is a more fiddly way of doing it.

32. Repeat steps 29 and 30 for the inner. The pocket is now finished, PHOTOS 16 & 17

33. Topstitch around the front of the nappy.

34. Topstitch around the wings of the nappy. Note when you do this you can also sew back and forth over the side

of the pocket where the back elastic for both inner and outer meet but it isn’t necessary.

35. You now need to attach the final snaps or velcro/Applix/touch tape to the wings.

SNAPS:

1. PHOTOS 18, 19 & 20: Attach the stud snaps (and socket snaps if having cross-over tabs) on the wings of the

nappy through all layers.

PHOTO 15

PHOTOS 16 & 17




2. Test that the snaps work with each of the snaps on the front of the nappy. If any don’t work, take them off and

replace them.

3. You are done, go and try it on your baby!

VELCRO/APPLIX/TOUCH TAPE

NOTE: I recommend rounding all the corners to prevent your baby from getting scratched. Also, I don’t sew it on beforehand as many patterns

recommend as I find the nappy doesn’t sit properly if I do. It may just be me..???? So I will leave it up to you.

1. Cut 2 pieces of loop about 3-4cm in length and 2 pieces of hook about 3-4cm in length for the wings.

2. Place a piece of hook and a piece of loop back to back. You can pin but I find it quicker (and easier) not to.

Starting half way along the long edge, sew around to the same point on the other side.

3. Leaving the needle down, lift up the presser foot and insert the wing between the pieces of hook and loop into

the correct position (make sure the hook is on the inside of the nappy and the loop on the outer).

4. Lower the presser foot and continue sewing around the hook and loop until

it is secured onto the nappy and you get back to the starting point. Your first

wing is complete. PHOTO 21

5. Repeat steps 4-6 for the other wing.

6. Cut 2 pieces of loop 2-3cm in length for the fold-back laundry tabs.

7. Attach the newly cut loop to the hook on one of the wings and fold inwards

to find the position for the loop.

8. Holding the loop in position, pull off the hook and pin the loop in place.

9. Sew around the loop to secure it (again, check the thread in the bobbin matches the nappy outer). PHOTO 21.

10. Repeat steps 9-11 for the other wing.

11. You are now done, go and try it on your baby!

PHOTOS 18, 19 & 20

PHOTO 21




Finished nappy photos:

Documents

Pocket Nappy Gusset Tutorial