ATHENS

ZORA O’NEILL

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Temple of Olympian Zeus (p116) PEL_1971/GETTY IMAGES ©

Plan Your TripWelcome to Athens ............4

Top Sights ............................6

Eating .................................10

Drinking & Nightlife ..........12

Shopping ............................14

Arts & Entertainment.......16

Museums & History ..........18

Activities & Events........... 20

For Free ..............................21

LGBTIQ+ ........................... 22

For Kids ............................. 23

Four Perfect Days ............ 24

Need to Know ................... 26

Athens Neighbourhoods .............. 28

Explore Athens 31Acropolis Area ................................... 33

Monastiraki & Psyrri ............................. 53

Syntagma & Plaka ...............................77

Kolonaki ............................ 99

Mets & Pangrati ........................ 115

Omonia & Exarhia ..........................127

Filopappou Hill, Thisio & Petralona ..........147

Gazi, Keramikos & Metaxourgio .................157

Worth a TripFaliro .................................170

Survival Guide 173Before You Go ................. 174

Arriving in Athens ........... 175

Getting Around ...............176

Essential Information .... 177

Language .........................182

Index ................................ 184

Special FeaturesAcropolis ........................... 34

Acropolis Museum ...........40

Ancient Agora .................. 54

Benaki Museum of Greek Culture ................. 100

Temple of Olympian Zeus ................ 116

National Archaeological Museum .......................... 128

Filopappou Hill ............... 148

Kerameikos ..................... 158

With equal measures of grunge and grace, Athens is a heady mix of history and edginess. Cultural and social life plays out amid, around and within ancient landmarks, and the magnificent Acropolis towers over all. There is crackling energy in galleries, political debates and street art. Go with a mind open to spontaneous discovery, and you will be rewarded.

Welcome to Athens©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

View from the Acropolis (p34) towards Lykavittos Hill (p103)ADRIENNE PITTS/LONELY PLANET ©

AcropolisAn icon of Western civilisation. p34

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Acropolis MuseumThe Parthenon at eye level. p40

Ancient AgoraThe heart of classi-cal Athens. p54

Benaki Museum of Greek CulturePrivate mansion turned public treasure. p100

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National Archaeological MuseumGreece’s finest classical treasures. p128

KerameikosA cemetery reveals ancient life. p158

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Filopappou HillAncient history and green space. p148

Temple of Olympian ZeusEmperor Hadrian’s biggest building project. p116

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Eating

Eating, drinking and talking is the main entertainment for Athenians. The cur-rent restaurant scene is vibrant, and some of the best cooking is found in just-slightly-modernised tavernas that showcase fresh produce and regional ingredients. Add in a culture of con-vivial alfresco dining, and no wonder meals tend to last for hours.

Restaurant TypesTavernas are neigh-bourhood anchors. A psarotaverna focuses on seafood; a hasapotaverna or psistaria does meat. Also casual, a mayirio specialises in home-style stews and baked dishes (mayirefta). More formal is the estiatorio, with cloth on the tables.

Casual ouzeries and mezedhopoleia both serve small plates with drinks. Souv-laki (aka kalamaki) is Athens’ favourite fast food; restaurants that do these grilled

meat skewers usually also do gyros (slivers of meat cooked on a vertical rotisserie).

What Looks GoodIn summer, an empty room doesn’t neces-sarily mean bad – it could just be that everyone is on the roof terrace or in the courtyard.

At mom-and-pop places, it’s normal to go into the kitchen to see the day’s dishes.

For other tips on ordering, see Menu Advice (p166).

Best Traditional GreekTelis Pork chops, grilled by a master. (p68)

Diporto Agoras Legendary cheap lunch spot near the central market. (p75)

I Kriti Super-rustic Cretan specialities. (p139)

Palia Athina Checked tablecloths: check. Perfect calamari: check. (p87)

Kalderimi A taste of the village downtown. (p86)

Atlantikos The freshest seafood, simply prepared. (p68)

Best MezedhesIvis Watch the Psyrri scene from a little table at this sweet corner bar-cafe. (p67)

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