22 ESCAPE SUNDAY DECEMBER 28 2014 ESCAPE.COM.AU

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If you can ride a horse and steal a scarf in Kalocsa, you’re a chance at winning the hand

of the fairest maiden in the village, writes Roderick Eime

THE dirt flies up in a wildspray from the animal’shoofs as it flees across the

plain. Nostrils flared and eyes wide, it gallops at full speed to evade the pursuing foe that would have the prize for himself.

The hunter is equally determined, bearing down on his prey with unwavering killer instinct until the two are side-by-side. Deathly glares are exchanged by both riders and mounts. The two bump and jostle at full pace while the animals’ flanks collide in an aggressive tactic that allows the hunter to lean over, snatch the garment and swiftly effect his “kill”.

Our victorious “csikós” (cowboy) taunts the vanquished by holding the dainty scarf aloft while the crowd stands in unison to applaud their champion. His steed rejoices in similarly triumphant fashion, standing high on its hind legs. The contest is over and the winner is set to enjoy his prize, variously reported as free food and drink at the inn for a year, or the hand of the most beautiful girl in the village.

I’m here on an excursion from Scenic Tours’ river cruising ship Scenic Pearl to the Bakod Horse Farm in the central Hungarian town of Kalocsa and have just witnessed the “stealing of the scarf”, one of the more dramatic riding demonstrations by the resident csikós.

The vast tundra and wetlands of Hortobágy puszta (plain) have supported more

Playing for keeps

than 2000 years of pastoral and agricultural activity. Peculiar breeds, such as the massive-horned Hungarian grey cattle and the curious long-haired Mangalitza pig have been domesticated for centuries.

The Magyar horseriding circus celebrates the age-old art of animal husbandry endemic to these Eurasian steppes. Horses are trained to endure gunfire with loud ostor (whip) cracks and taught to lie prostrate in the fields of long wheat so their riders can lie in wait and spring an ambush, presumably against the regular Turkish invaders. Our heroic riders command eight horses, standing bareback on the last two, and hang on like speedway sidecar riders.

The equestrian show is accompanied by a feast at the neighbouring Inn of the Bakod. Rich paprika-laden goulash, salads and vegetables are accompanied by buckets of wine from the Szekszárd region, served by lavishly embroidered damsels. The red is robust and pungent, perfectly paired to the hearty feast; Hunter Valley or McLaren Vale vintners need not feel threatened.

Hungary is benefiting

enormously from the deluge of river cruisers sailing in and out of the capital, Budapest. Two new Scenic Tours coaches shadow our vessel, whisking us off on a variety of side trips. The ride to Kalocsa and the Bakod Horse Farm is one of the longer, consuming most of the day.

These road journeys are usually of only a few hours, taking us to places not directly on the banks of the Danube, including Salzburg (Austria) and Ceský Krumlov (Czech Republic). Otherwise, we just tie up to the wharf and stroll ashore, as we did in Bratislava (Slovakia), Passau (Germany) and Linz and Melk in Austria.

In the latter, the immaculateBenedictine abbey stands like a giant sentinel overlooking the river. Built in 1089, and renovated sporadically since 1702, the abbey and its monastic school are in the World Heritage-listed Wachau Valley, a landscape stretching along a length of the Danube between

Melk and Krems in what was once the vast and powerful Austro-Hungarian Empire.

Just how this large and strategically located palace withstood every hostile invader from Napoleon to RAF Bomber Command is miraculous, particularly when you consider nearby Linz was singled out due to its links with Hitler, who called it his “home town”.

We are welcomed by FatherGustav, resplendent in robes and crucifix. The mild-mannered monk displays exemplary patience as he stands for umpteen photos with our curious horde. Upon the gilded walls inside the cavernous chambers are exquisite paintings and tapestries, while glass cases display jewel-encrusted ecclesiastical artefacts. Necks crack as we crane our heads backward to take in the expansive frescoes painted by Paul Troger around 1730.

Scenic Pearl is among the third generation of so-called “space ships”, notable for their length (135m), number of cabins with balconies (more than 80 per cent) and facilities such as gym, spa and fine dining.

The writer was a guest of Scenic Tours and Emirates.

MANE EVENT: The csikós of the Bakod Horse Farm display their precision and skills in a range of daring demonstrations developed over centuries.

GETTING THEREEmirates and Qantas operate 98 flights a week from Australia to Dubai, and onwards daily to 37 European destinations including Prague, Budapest, Brussels and Rome. Ph 1300 303 777 or see emirates.com/au

TOURING THEREScenic Tours’ 15-day Jewels of Europe river cruise costs from $7195 a person, twin share. This includes return flights to Europe, a private butler service, all meals and drinks, daily replenishment of mini-bars, all sightseeing and activities, airport transfers and tips. Ph 1300 723 642 or see scenictours.com.au

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