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New concepts and products presented atthe in-cosmetics show held in Munich,Germany, in April, were extremelynumerous, and here described by categoryis an extensive selection.
Anti-ageingChromocare (Sederma). An activesubstance which associates two plantextracts to form an anti-ageing skin carebased on chromophore mapping. Normalhuman skin appearance to the eye undervisible light (400-700 nm) is mainly drivenby the concentration and distribution ofmelanin, haemoglobin and collagen.Noticed is a strong difference in theconcentration and homogeneity of thesechromophores between young and agedskin. It specifically targets eachchromophore in order to confer the skinwith a fresher, younger look. It reinforcesthe structure of the molecules and has an action on inflammatory mediators and free radicals and a direct effect onpigmentation. Chromophore mappingrevealed a significant decrease in rednessand brown spots and improvement incollagen homogeneity.
Sambrani Extract (Alchem). INCI name:Sambrani. Improves skin firmness, preventspremature ageing.
EpiCalmin TCM (Mibelle). INCI name:Lonicera japonica flower extract/Lonicerajaponica (honeysuckle) flower extract (and)Xanthium sibiricum fruit extract (and)Cyperus rotundus root extract (and) sodiumbenzoate (and) aqua/water. EpiCalmin TCMcombines 3 different plants which wereselected according to their strong soothingactivity long known in TCM. The mechanismof activity for this specific plant combinationwas demonstrated by gene array analysisand its efficacy proved by in vivo studies.
Results showed that EpiCalmin TCMeffectively reinforces the skin’s self-protection against dehydration, oxidativestress and also degradation of the extra-cellular matrix. Thus EpiCalmin TCM, whichis Ecocert approved, actively protects theskin and prevents premature ageing.
Homeostatine (Provital). INCI name:Enteromorpha compressa extract,Caesalpinia spinosa gum. Homeostatine is a combined active ingredient composedof a marine fraction and a plantpolysaccharide. It rejuvenates the skin by reducing wrinkles and increasing skinfirmness, moisture and elasticity.Sequential release system. Increasessynthesis of collagen I and III, increasesskin thickness, increases the elastic fibres,increases glucosaminoglycans, reduces
metalloproteinases and inhibits the IL-1astimulus.
Kalpariane (Biotech Marine). Anti-wrinkleand replumping effect, remoisturises andrevitalises the skin providing supplenessand elasticity. Helps to prevent stretchmarks and wrinkles.
Resveratrox Powder (Breko GmbH). INCI name: Inulin, Vitis vinifera [grape] vineextract. Resveratrox is a grapevine shootextract from the plant species Vitis viniferawhich is exclusively cultivated from vines ofthe area Bordeaux, France. Resveratroxincreased the sirt-1 expression in the aged fibroblasts with a dose-dependentresponse. During skin ageing, certainnumbers of biological markers decrease. Anex vivo test demonstrated that Resveratroxcorrects this disordered state on four skin-ageing markers and indicated thatResveratrox corrects the decrease of sirt-1expression in fibroblasts during ageing.
Phytosan K (CLR). INCI name: Water,glycerin, glycine soja (soybean) seedextract. Proteins, glycoproteins andpolysaccharides isolated from soybeans.Fights the signs of biological and UV-induced skin ageing. Acts as a biologicalsun protection factor by vitalising the skin’sown UV protection. Helps to prevent DNAdamage due to UV. Stimulates regenerativefunctions of the skin and thereby improvesskin firmness and structure.
Phytessence Holyherb (Crodarom). INCI name: Butylene glycol, Eriodictyoncalifornicum (holyherb) flower/leaf/stemextract. Its evergreen leaves are coveredwith a resin which protects the plant fromthe sun, thanks to its rich flavonoidcontent, which is mainly comprised ofhomoeriodictyol and eriodictyol. It is usefulfor anti-ageing face care, day care focusingon “anti-stress”, sun and after sun care,anti-pollution skin and hair care, protectivebody lotion, and wellness treatment.
Pomegranate Seed CO2 extract (Flavex). INCI name: Punica granatum(pomegranate) seed extract. Fatty oil withmore than 60% puninic acid (C18:3 w5), a valuable conjugated linolenic acid (CLNA).The extract contains tocopherols, sterolsand a small amount of squalene.
June 2009 PERSONAL CARE 13
Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSPH – Technical EditorNicholas Marshall – Editor
IN-COSMETICS REVIEW
Much new presented at Munich show
Natural highlightsAmong highlights from Cosmetochem were Outback Spirit Botanicals, which useindigenous Australian plants sourced from an ethical supply chain; concentratedglycerine-based extracts from a merlot grape variety sourced in Switzerland; and a newrange of preservative-free extracts formulated with Ecocert-certified organic glycerineand organically certified plants.
Application: in cosmetic products it is usedfor promoting skin regeneration, stimulatingself repair mechanisms, improving skinelasticity, reducing wrinkles and asprophylaxis against skin ageing; calmingand healing properties in cases of irritated,dry, sensitive, allergic and itching skin.
TopicPure Schisandra Berries(Frutarom). It is protecting to mitochondrialactivity to maintain activity and slowageing.
SalSphere Resveratrol (Salvona). INCI name: Water (and) synthetic wax (and) resveratrol (and) hydroxyethylbehenamidopropyl dimonium chloride (and)Polyquaternium-67 (and) phenoxyethanol(and) ethylhexylglycerin. The submicronspheres comprising resveratrol arehydrophobic and thus become associatedwith the proteinaceous portion of the skinor hair and improve the deposition ofresveratrol onto skin and scalp. Thistechnology prevents it from being washedoff during rinsing and sustains the releaseof resveratrol, thereby enabling the releaseof the active over 3 hours. SalSphereresveratrol is the product to use whenstable resveratrol [no discoloration] isneeded for a water-based emulsion,enhanced bioavailability, and to depositmore on hair, skin, and scalp.
Chondricare IS (ISP Vincience). INCIname: Water (aqua) (and) butylene glycol(and) pentapeptide. This new biofunctionalingredient is a synthetic pentapeptide thatfunctions as a mimetic of the proteinaconitase – a critical functional element of human cells that both stimulates cellmetabolism during the Krebs cycle andprotects mitochondrial DNA (mtDNA) fromoxidative damage – such as that caused byUVB radiation. By increasing the aconitaseenzymatic activity in cells, Chondricare IScan help counteract the slowing of cellmetabolism and help prevent mitochondrialDNA damage, both of which have beenobserved as conditions of the ageingprocess. It is used as an ingredient in anti-ageing formulations to protect mtDNA, indaily formulations to protect skin from UV-induced mtDNA damage and in nightformulations for the regeneration of cellenergy levels.
Zenicyl (Silab). INCI name: Panicummiliacenum. It restores normal expressionof ageing and stress markers, corrects the impact of emotional stress on skinquality. On young skin, it illuminates thecomplexion; on aged skin, it visibly reduceswrinkles, restoring 60-year-old skin to becharacteristic of skin 15 years younger.An active ingredient rich in oligopeptidesfrom germinated millet seeds.
SymVital (Symrise). INCI name: Aloebarbadensis leaf juice powder, magnesiumascorbyl phosphate, Rubus idaeus
(raspberry) leaf extract. Highly effectiveanti-ageing complex that has shown 250% endogenous GAG increase and 80% endogenous collagen enhancement.
AntioxidantsRevital Plus SG (Natural Solutions). INCI name: Alpinia officinarum root extract.Shows excellent efficiency in calming theskin in addition to good antioxidant activitywhich acts against skin ageing. It is said to restrict the generation of melanin andmay be helpful in melasma.
NanoVit (Mibelle). INCI name: NanoVitoA (alcohol-free): lecithin (and) Hippophaerhamnoides oil (and) tocopherol (and)glycerin (and) sodium benzoate (and)aqua/water. NanoVit combines antioxidantactivity with a regenerative effect. Thus, it can prevent lipid peroxidation whileimproving the skin metabolism resulting ina healthy-looking skin. (NanoVit is Ecocertapproved and is available in 2 versions:NanoVit oA: alcohol-free and NanoVit nc:preservative-free).
UTIrose (Burgundy Botanicals). INCI
name: Hibiscus sabdariffa. The bestefficiency of specific and selectedpolyphenols from Hibiscus sabdariffa(Roselle). These materials give not onlycolour and flavour, but also antioxidantproperties. Specific flavonoids,protocatechuic acid, specific sambubiosideanthocyanins, proanthocyanidins (red –dark red natural colour).
Dermofeel Toco 70 non-GMO (Dr Straetmans). INCI name: Tocopherol.Mixed tocopherols are derived fromcertified non-GMO soy plants and areespecially rich in D-γ- and D-δ-Tocopherol.In comparison to pure vitamin E these two tocopherols exhibit superior activityagainst oxidative degradation of cosmeticformulations. In combination with thesynergist Dermofeel Ascorbyl Palmitate a reliable stabilisation against rancidity can be ensured in the most natural way.
Rosemary antioxidant extract (Flavex).INCI name: Rosmarinus officinalis(rosemary) leaf extract (and) Helianthusannuus (sunflower) seed oil. The producthas antioxidative, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory property; for retardingoxidation of fatty oils, carotenoids andessential oils.
AA2G (Ascorbic Acid 2-Glucoside)(Hayashibara). INCI name: Ascorbylglucoside. It is natural vitamin C (ascorbicacid) stabilised with glucose. Thiscombination allows the benefits of vitamin C to be conveniently and effectivelyused in cosmetic products. When productscontaining AA2G are applied to the skin, anenzyme present in the skin, α-glucosidase,acts on the AA2G to slowly release thehealthful benefits of vitamin C. It wasoriginally developed as a quasi-drugcosmetic product in Japan to lighten the overall tone of the skin and reduce the pigmentation in age spots and freckles. It also brightens dull looking skin, reversing the effects of ageing, and
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14 PERSONAL CARE June 2009
Array of advanced productsA functional silicone fluid substitute, Lipo SFS-5 was promoted by Lipo Chemicals.
The product is a non-silicone replacement for cyclomethicone D5 and the fluidsolution gives the same performance features without the adverse effect of volatilesilicone fluid.
Having an elegant skin feel and fast absorbency, Lipo SFS-5 is a safe, non-whiteningemollient blend ideally suited to use with a variety of cosmetic products including thosefor hair treatment and conditioning, skin care, shaving and hair removing, and sunlesstanning.
Lipo Chemicals was also drawing attention to its Vegetable Ivory, Lipo VI 40/60, a new natural exfoliant derived from the seeds of the palm Phytelephas macrocarpa,commonly known as Tagua nuts; Lipobutter emollients made from natural plant sourcesrich in essential fatty acids; Lipolight OAP (Optically Activated Particles) that is aluminescent ingredient which emits and diffuses visible light to dramatically reduce the appearance of skin imperfections; and Hylasome EG10, a chemically crosslinkedhyaluronic acid derived from a non-animal source and providing, due to its exceptionallyhigh water-binding capacity, excellent moisturising performance.
Merck was promoting a galaxy of shimmeringcosmetic pigments. Versatile colour effects –available in shades from silver to green andeverything in between – can be subtle or wild,lustrous or with diamond-bright glitter.
is used in sunscreen products for protection.Pomaceo CQR (Val de Vire (Tri-K)). INCI
name: Pyrus malus (apple) fruit extract.Antioxidant apple extract rich in quercetin (flavonols) and in phloridzin(dihydrochalcones), in a spray powder form.Made up of highly-concentrated appleantioxidants, the Pomaceo product rangeprovides benefits such as anti-ageing, anti-inflammatory, skin firming andsmoothing, slimming and UV protection.
Anti-wrinkleThalassine 2 (Biotech Marine). INCI name:Tripleurospermum maritima. Has a relaxingeffect and helps to prevent fatigue marksand expression lines. Myorelaxing,replumping and protecting.
Timeless No. 4 (Natural Solutions). INCI name: Alpinia officinarum root extract,Terminalia chebula fruit extract, Paeoniasuffruticosa root extract, Dryopteriscrassirhizoma root extract. A blend ofdifferent ingredients with a synergisticeffect against wrinkles that inhibits thegeneration of collagenase.
Phycosaccharide AI (Codif). INCI name:Water (and) hydrolysed algin (and)propylene glycol (and) phenoxyethanol(and) chlorphenesin (and) methylparaben.During skin ageing, the formation of wrinklesand lines involves the same process asduring an injury. Phycosaccharide AI maytherefore be used to stimulate the activityof epidermal stem cells and their role inthe reconstruction of the epidermal matrix.Once the skin has been reconstructed,wrinkles and lines are filled in andsmoothed out.
Alguard (Frutarom). INCI name:Porphyridium polysaccharide. It is a purified
and standardised bio-exudate of redmicroalgae and has a multifunctional skin active shield with skin immune photo-protection effect. It reduces fine line length, depth and overall wrinkleappearance as well as reducing skinroughness.
Tego Pep 4-17 (Evonik). INCI name:Tetrapeptide-17, glycerin, butylene glycol,aqua. It is a collagen boosting bioactive for anti-ageing formulations and is a novelbioactive and pure tetrapeptide with anti-ageing properties. It activates collagenproduction and therefore stimulates dermalfilling, repair, and renewal mechanisms ofthe skin. Tetrapeptide-17 is based on theskin’s own structures. Formulations lead to an increased elasticity, a decreasedvolume of wrinkles and fine lines as well as a reduction of skin roughness.
ButtersBioChemica has a range of unmodifiedbutters such as Cocoa Butter [Theobromacacao cocoa seed butter], CupuaçuButter [Theobroma grandiflorum seedbutter], Illipe Butter [Shorea stenopteraseed butter], Kokum Butter [Garcinia indica
seed butter], Mango Butter [Mangiferaindica seed butter], Mowrah Butter [Bassialatifolia seed butter], Murumuru Butter[Astrocaryum murumuru seed butter],Shorea (Sal) Butter [Shorea (Sal) butter],Shea Butter [Butyrospermum parkii (sheabutter)], Tucuma Butter [Astrocaryumtucuma seed butter]. Blended inhydrogenated vegetable oil to producebutter-like materials there are: almond,avocado, brazil but, chamomile, coffee,hemp seed, horsetail, jojoba, lavender,lemon, lemon grass, lime, macadamiaseed, matcha green tea, olive, orange,pistachio, pumpkin seed, soy andtangerine.
DeodorantDeosent (Tri-K). Deosent is a natural, safeand effective solution to odour controlbased on fermentation technology and is awater-soluble liquid derived from vegetablefeedstock. The enzymes present providebioconversion of a wide range ofmalodorous substances. There iseffectiveness on amines, mercaptans,esters, aldehydes, thios and alcohols.
EmulsifiersHitecream 3000 (Sinerga). INCI name:Potassium palmitoyl hydrolysed oat protein,behenyl alcohol, palm glycerides, sodiumstearoyl glutamate, sucrose palmitate. This is a unique emulsifier that enablescosmetic chemists to create soft touchformulations – even those rich in vegetableoils. Hitecream 3000 is said to be veryeasy to formulate and handle. It hasapplications in fluid emulsions (o/w), fluidemulsion as base before pre-make-up,cream gels for heavy legs, day creams
IN-COSMETICS REVIEW
June 2009 PERSONAL CARE 15
US and European Inquiries: Siltech LLC at 678.442.0210
All other inquiries:Siltech Corp at 416.424.4567 www.siltechpersonalcare.com
Give your product a new look.By partnering with our customerswe create new innovative silicones specifically for your needs.
Formulator Friendly TM – it’s not just ourtrademark, it’s our commitment.
with vitamins, and sun care formulas.Akoline LC (AarhusKarlshamn). INCI
name: Glyceryl stearate citrate. Akoline LCis an anionic emulsifier for skin carecreams and lotions. It is a partiallyneutralised citric acid ester ofmono/diglycerides, making it dispersible in water and suitable for cold processingapplications. It releases citric acid byhydrolysis on skin contact, supplementingthe Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF).Citric acid esters such as Akoline LC have well documented skin firming andsmoothing properties. The released citricacid also stabilises the skin pH value by the buffering action of citrates.
Hostacerin SFO (Clariant). INCI name:Sunflower seed oil sorbitol esters. This is asunflower-oil based emulsifier for creams,lotions and sun care products produced viaan energy-saving process. It is made fromhigh oleic sunflower oil via a single step,low temperature oil process that leads toreduced CO2 formation. The sunflower oil-based emulsifier is manufactured by trans-esterification – a low-energy consumingprocess using natural ingredients that hasan operating temperature almost 50˚Clower than other esterification procedures.Ecocert approved.
Protelan ENS (Zschimmer & Schwarz).INCI name: Glyceryl stearate, cetearylalcohol, stearic acid, sodium lauroylglutamate. Ecocert approved. Very versatileemulsifying wax, emulsifying capacity notdepending on the polarity of the oil phaseand therefore appropriate for mineral oil,vegetable oil, silicon oil, esters, etc.Supplies an attractive creamy structure andglossy surface of the cream, and positivelyinfluences the feeling of the skin.
EndorphinsHappybelle-PE (Mibelle). INCI name:Lecithin (and) Vitex agnus-castus extract(and) glycerin (and) ascorbyltetraisopalmitate (and) caprylic/caprictriglyceride (and) cyclodextrin (and) alcohol(and) aqua. New cosmetic science showedthat β-endorphins play an important role in the vitality and appearance of the skin.These “happy-molecules” make the skinlook luscious and more radiant.Happybelle-PE contains a phyto-endorphinextract based on Monk’s Pepper combinedwith anti-oxidant and moisturising factorsencapsulated in an ultra penetrating doublevector system.
Happy Skin (Provital). INCI name:Glycerin, water (aqua), Rhodiola rosea rootextract. The skin contains large amounts of endorphins, known as “the chemistry of happiness”. Happy Skin is a naturalproduct produced from Arctic rose. It increases the endorphin levels, thus providing wellness and pleasure,
qualitatively enhancing the appearance ofskin and even improving the mood. Abilityto induce the synthesis of β-endorphins,thus stimulating central and peripheralreceptors and improving mood and general health.
Euphoryl Ω-3 LS 9846 (LaboratoiresSérobiologiques). INCI name: Plukenetiavolubilis seed oil (and) Schinusterebinthifolius seed extract. There is a link between the innovative “happinessmolecule” dopamine and the appearanceof the skin. Dopamine is known to beinvolved in feelings of happiness andpleasure, but it also improvesmicrocirculation and brings colour to thecheeks. It is a mix of Sacha Inchi oil, which is very rich in Omega-3 and Schinusterebinthifolius (pink pepper) extract, a stimulant and invigorating agent withwarm and sensual perfume notes.
HairPomaceo WAP (Val de Vire (Tri-K)). INCIname: Pyrus malus (apple) fruit extract.Whole polyphenols extract from apple, in a spray powder form. The Pomaceoingredients are 100% natural appleextracts, containing no preservatives.Additionally, the polyphenols found in cider apples are known to act as a naturalhair loss remedy.
5-7113 Silicone Quat Microemulsion(Dow Corning). INCI name: Silicone
quaternium-16 (and) undeceth-11 (and)butyloctanol (and) undeceth-5. Providesheat protection, colour lock from rinse-offconditioners, extra body and volume as wellas enhanced hair strength. In addition itwill bring wave enhancement, has good wetdetangling and dry detangling properties inuse. It can be used in clear formulations.
Luvigel Advanced (BASF). A polymericthickener for hairstyling products and is anew multifunctional styling and conditioningcationic rheology modifier, providingthickening, conditioning and advancedsetting properties. It produces a strong holdwhen combined with other styling polymers,even at high humidity. Gels are easy toapply, offer the ability to re-style the hairand result in a pleasant sensory feel of the hair. Due to its cationic nature, theproduct provides conditioning, eliminatingthe need of additional conditioningpolymers. The hair remains easy to combno matter if curly, wet or dry. The boostingeffect allows the use of less styling polymer without negatively affecting theconditioning performance and so flaking is reduced.
Sea Satin (Biotech Marine). Hairtreatment from root to tip. Anti-inflammation, free radical scavenger,cellular anti-ageing (bulb and scalp), blood flow regulation, prevention of bulboxidation and prevention of bulbdegradation. It provides easier combing ofwet hair, leaves a silky feeling, makes hairsofter and shinier and adds volume to hair.
Kerabase (Inolex). INCI name: Brassicaalcohol (and) brassicamidopropyldimethylamine (and) polyester-11 (and)aspartic acid (and) EDTA. It is a completeconditioning base designed for performanceand ease-of-use and composed of a fatty alcohol for superior aesthetics andconditioning polyesteramine for emolliencyand gloss. A conditioning formula can be made by combining Kerabase with
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16 PERSONAL CARE June 2009
Reinforcing skin’s natural defence Lipotec introduced Bodyfensine, a new tripeptide for cosmeticapplications that protects skin from external microbial invasionand lowers the risk of infections.
Bodydefensine allows stimulation of β-defensin to expandthe innate epithelial shield and avoid microbial aggression.Therefore, this new product maintains the balance betweencommensal microbes and pathogens in the skin. The newtripeptide lowers the risk of possible infections by externalagents, such as in acne-prone skin.
The activity of Bodyfensine was determined at thetranscriptional level, by measuring its ability to promote theexpression of hBD-2 mRNA in human keratinocytes. The resultobtained validates the peptide activity as hBD-2 booster.Bodyfensine was able to induce a 10% increase in the hBD-3protein levels in human keratinocyte cultures, proving acontrolled increase in the amount of hBD-3 secreted protein.
emollients, water and preservative (as wellas any label-claim actives) and the finalresult has exceptional combability anddetangling performance as compared to commercial conditioning formulas.
Dermofeel P-30 (Dr Straetmans). INCIname: PCA glyceryl oleate. Hair washes andtreatments lead to a constant erosion ofthe lipid layer which covers the hair cuticleand results in hair that is coarse, less shinyand difficult to comb. Dermofeel P-30, withits surfactant-like structure, combinesnatural glyceryl monooleate with pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid (PCA) deriving from naturalglutamic acid. Mediated by its amide group,it is able to attach to the hair’s cuticule and to renew the lipid layer that has beenwashed away by hair treatments. Likeclassical conditioning agents, it reduces the combing resistance in wet hair. An alternative to quats perhaps.
Plantasil Micro (Cognis). INCI name:Dicaprylyl ether [and] decyl glucoside [and] glyceryl oleate. This is a solution for“green” shampoos with good conditioningproperties. This easy-to-formulatetransparent microemulsion, based on asurfactant-oil system, is highly compatiblewith a wide range of surfactants. It enablesformulators to develop vegetable-basedshampoos with conditioning performance.As such, it helps manufacturers serve thegrowing “green” trend in the shampoomarket and may be cold mixed.
Baycusan C 1001 (Bayer) dispersionwas developed for hairstyling and curlskeep their shape very well despite anymechanical influences, even in highhumidity, and less combing force is required than with untreated hair.
MoisturisersTrimoist (Mibelle). INCI name: Sodiumstearoyl lactylate (and) cetyl alcohol (and)vegetable oil (and) tocopheryl acetate (and) Glycine soja (soybean) sterols (and)glycerin (and) sodium carboxymethylbetaglucan (and) sodium lactate (and)
carnosine (and) phenoxyethanol (and)methylpara. A highly effective hydrocomplexthat perfectly supports the three elementsof the skin’s own moisture balance system,namely film-forming polysaccharides toprotect the skin, lamellar lipids to boost themoisture barrier and humectants to providean instant burst of hydration. Plus, themoisturising active contains a dipeptide toprevent the cross-linking and stiffening ofcollagen by glycation. Trimoist is a 3-stepmoisturising system to keep skin at its best.
Hyalurosmooth (LaboratoiresSérobiologiques). INCI name: Water (and)Cassia angustifolia seed polysaccharide. Itis a botanical alternative to hyaluronic acidand made of polysaccharides extractedfrom the seed of an Indian plant, Cassiaangustifolia, which forms a protective filmon the skin that strongly binds water andfills in fine lines. It provides intensemoisturisation, while plumping up the skin,which further helps to reduce fine lines andwrinkles and to smooth the skin’s surface.The smoother surface means that lightreflection is improved and so is skinradiance.
Cohesium (Silab). INCI name: Water and Ophiopogon japonicus root extract.Cohesion of the various epidermal layers isvital for barrier function and reduced TEWL.
The success of the skin’s barrier functionhas been attributed to the stratum corneumwith a “bricks and mortar” structure.However, it has recently been accepted thattight junctions also play an important role inhomeostasis of that function. They ensureadhesion between the keratinocytes of the stratum granulosum and regulate thepermeability of paracellular spaces andtherefore help maintaining moisturisation of the various layers of the epidermis.Compounds in the NMF (NaturalMoisturizing Factor) especially lactates, help to regulate pH, an importantparameter that partially influences theintegrity and cohesion of the stratumcorneum. Cohesium is an active ingredientpurified from the tubers of ophiopogon –also known as Japanese lily turf – a plantthat can withstand drought due to thepresence of water binding mucilage in itstubers. Cohesium triggers the formation of tight junctions and increases the levelsof NMFs in the stratum corneum.
Hydromanil (Provital). INCI name: Water(aqua), glycerin, hydrolysed Caesalpiniaspinosa gum, Caesalpinia spinosa gum.Hydromanil is an innovative moisturiser,which captures and retains water andassimilates it into the skin in an immediateand natural way. It contains galactomannanand galactomannose oligosaccharides (5% to7%).
Trehalose (Hayashibara). INCI name:Trehalose. Trehalose is readily soluble andprovides moisture retention and proteinprotection when used in skin and hair careproducts. Trehalose can also improveproduct shelf life, due to its ability to inhibitthe formation of any volatile aldehydescaused by the breakdown of fatty acids.
Cleomilk (Rahn). INCI name: Sesamumindicum seed oil, aqua, glycerin, sucrosestearate, Nigella sativa seed oil, glycerylcaprylate, Aloe barbadensis leaf juicepowder, xanthan gum. Cleomilk is based onthe well-known, positive principles of thisnatural product, but the elements of theclassic milk have been replaced by plant-
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June 2009 PERSONAL CARE 17
‘Real gold’ effect realisedAmong innovative products highlighted by Eckart wasMirage Sparkling Luxury Gold which represents a newgeneration of gold effect pigments for cosmetics andpersonal care. A “real gold” effect has been realised.
Based on calcium sodium borosilicate coated withtitanium dioxide and iron oxides, this pigment exhibitsoutstanding colour strength and purity.
The achievement of this milestone in effect pigment technology was possible due toEckart’s capability to create extremely smooth pigment surfaces that allow optimisedgloss and unique colour purity. With its particle size of 15 µm to 120 µm, MirageSparkling Luxury Gold provides exceptional sparkle effects as well as colouring effectswhich can be used pure or in combination with other pigments to enhance, especially,colour cosmetics with a luxurious look.
Completely clear isethionate esterInnospec was drawing attention to Iselux, a revolutionary new isethionate ester forpersonal care products.
Unlike other isethionate technologies on the market, Iselux is completely clear yetstill allows formulators to create exceptionally elegant products that reproduce thelathering feel of a luxury beauty bar. At the same time, this innovative sulfate-freesurfactant is mild and kind to the skin.
Iselux is expected to be used in ultra-mild clear shampoos, shower gels, hand andfacial cleansers and luxury foam bath products. It can be used as either a primary orsecondary surfactant and it is ideal for formulating products that require dense,luxurious and long-lasting foam with an elegant after-feel.
The foam produced is comparable to that of sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI) in thatthe bubbles are very dense and equivalent to sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) interms of flash foam and foam stability. The Iselux technology ensures the cleansingproduct rinses away easily and is not sticky when dry, leaving the skin feeling smooth.
based constituents and include organicblack caraway oil, organic sesame oil andorganic Aloe vera. Prevents dehydrationand lowers transepidermal water loss(TEWL). Counteracts skin de-lipidationwhen washing and promotes re-lipidation. It accelerates the regeneration of the skin barrier.
Irwinol LS 9890 (Cognis). INCI name:Octyldodecanol (and) Irvingia gabonensiskernel butter (and) hydrogenated coco-glycerides. Irvingia gabonensis is a treethat grows in the tropical and subtropicalforests of Central and West Africa. It fruitsresemble small mangoes and this leads tothe common name “wild mango tree” or“African mango tree”, even though it doesnot belong to the same botanical family as the cultivated mango. Irwinol contains a lipid extract from the kernels, mainlyconsisting of triglycerides of myristic andlauric acid, with a minor unsaponifiablefraction of sterols and tocopherol. Itshows an excellent spreadibility andleaves the skin feeling soft and supple. Itsmoisturising properties were shown to besuperior to those of shea butter. On hair it also outperformed shea butter in a teston the improvement of hair combability. In addition it was found to improve thesensorial benefits of damaged hair. It isthe tropical solution for moisturisation and repair of dry skin and lips.
Quinoa Pro (Tri-K). Quinoa is a goodsource of protein and exhibits a highamino acid content. Quinoa also has analpha-tocopherol content greater than
wheat, and a gamma-tocopherol contenttwice that of its alpha-tocopherol content.This makes quinoa an excellent source ofvitamin E.
Dermofeel BGC (Dr Straetmans). INCIname: Butylene glycol dicprylate/dicaprate.This polar oil shows a very good solvatingbehaviour for the commonly used UV filters.and has a good ability to dispersepigments. Tests comparing it with othersolvating oil components such as C12-15alkyl benzaotes show a similar solvatingperformance and excellent results,particularly spreadability and skin feel which are often problematic in productswith high SPF.
Organic solutionsOriginal Extract Lemon Bio (Gattefossé).INCI name: Citrus medica limonum (lemon)fruit water. The Original Extract is a lineconsisting of true water extracted fromplants, rich and pure as in the vegetableitself. Preservative-free, these “living”waters may partially or completelysubstitute for the water of cosmeticformulations (useful when the formulator is trying to obtain “organic” status). Thisnew Original Extract Lemon Bio is made byflash distillation. It has been certified as100% organic by Ecocert. Using OriginalExtract Lemon Bio in a formulation allowseasy increasing of the percentage oforganic material used, at low cost with no risk of instability of the formulation. The full original extracts range contains
11 ingredients, two of which (lemon andorange) are 100% organic.
GreenExfoliator range (Lessonia).GreenExfoliator products are not availablefrom a certified organic source. Productsavailable in the range include luffa (loofah),lychee, cocoa, coconut, bamboo, guarana,pomegranate and olive. The sterilisation isachieved through heat cycles and so canbe used in an organically certified product,although the level used will not count as a part of the 95% required organic.
BioExfoliator (Lessonia). Bio trend withBioExfoliator, certified organic: one stepfurther, for truly organic products ranges,for the most demanding brands.
RejuvenationVitasource (Provital). Vitasource is apurified fraction obtained from roots ofScutellaria baicalensis standardised inbaicalin which delays cellular senescenceand recovers characteristics that skin cells had 10 years earlier. Delays the skinfibroblasts ageing process and postponessenescence. Increases skin firmness,elasticity and activity. Rejuvenates skinappearance.
Phycojuvenine (Codif). INCI name: Water (and) Laminaria digitata extract (and) phenoxyethanol. Phycojuvenine isextracted from the brown seaweedLaminaria digitata, also called oarweed, or “fouet des sorcières” in France and“Kombu” in Japan. Phycojuveninerejuvenates and protects “adult stem cells” in the dermis, by prolonging tissueyouth and respecting skin ethics. It has the effect of rejuvenation of dermal adultstem cells, an anti-ageing effect on dermal adult stem cells, rejuvenation of fibroblasts, stimulation of collagensynthesis, reduction of wrinkles andsmoothing effect on skin microrelief.
TopicPure Red Vine (Frutarom). Itcontains tran-resveratrol which inducessirtuin activity to support cell longevity.
ACB Sirtuin Complex (Active Concepts).INCI name: Butylene glycol (and)saccharomyces/Podophyllum peltatumferment filtrate. Sirtuin or silent informationregulator 2 proteins, are proteins that
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Anti-ageing emphasisJan Dekker launched two new active ingredients: Glycoin Extremium, a powerful anti-ageing ingredient based on nature’s own survival strategies and Nikkol LPA, a newconcept in anti-ageing developed by Nikkol Group, Jan Dekker’s partner.
Glycoin Extremium increases the stress resistancy of skin cells, and is thereforeregarded as a suitable and extremely effective component in skin rejuvenation. Skintolerance is high.
The Nikkol LPA (lysophosphatidic acid) concept visibly reduces pores thanks to astimulating action on cell differentiation and hydration conditions. LPA exists in humanskin and is an essential element of the cell membrane because it promotes healthyepidermis development. Nikkol LPA contains a high concentration (20% to 30%) of LPAwhich is capable of enlarging Ca2+ intake channels, letting more Ca2+ inside the cellsand improving corneocyte conditions by significantly suppressing TEWL.
‘24 hour protection and care’For the first time since DSM’s merger with skin care specialistPentapharm, the enlarged company presented, at in-cosmetics,its complete portfolio of ingredients for the cosmetics industry.
With a concept themed “24 hour protection and care”, thecompany’s personal care team showed how its portfolio ofvitamins, UV filters and active ingredients offer protection andcare in products for any time of day. From morning to night itsingredients and special formulations work to protect the skinfrom the sun, to moisturise or energise the skin, or provide acomplete anti-ageing treatment.
regulate important biological pathways in cells. An increase in SIRT1 expressionpromotes the long-term survival of cells.Resveratrol has been shown to increaseSIRT1 expression to promote longevity.
Dynachondrine ISR (ISP Vincience). INCIname: Water (aqua) (and) glycerin (and)hydrolysed soy protein. It is a peptide-richsoybean extract that was developed to slow premature ageing and to enhance thehealth and functioning of skin cells. It is a Glycine max (soybean) extract rich inpeptides biomimetic to mitochondrialrespiratory chain proteins. DynachondrineISR focuses on mitochondrial ageing bytargeting one of the most advanceddiscoveries in longevity: sirtuins. In additionit acts directly through the stimulation of the mitochondrial respiratory chain to deliver a durable increase in energy,necessary for a high cellular metabolismand protection against oxidative stress anddamage. It has been demonstrated to givebetter skin structure and appearance and is recommended as an ingredient in anti-ageing creams, serums with longevityclaims and energising formulations linkedto improving metabolic endurance andcellular energy boosting.
Rheology modifiersOxetal VD 92 (Zschimmer & Schwarz). INCI name: PEG 90 Glyceryl isostearate,laureth-2. Thickener for “difficult tothicken” surfactant systems/formulations.Especially used in very mild skin cleansingsystems where thickening is a challenge.Colourless, clear liquid of medium viscosity, easy to handle.
SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax (DowCorning). INCI name: C30-45Alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane. It is a rheology and texture modifier,structuring agent that has broadcompatibility with organic and silicone
materials as well as a good compatibilitywith fragrances.
Rheocare C Plus (Cognis), INCI name:Carbomer. An optimised carbomer typewhich offers very interesting synergisticproperties when combined with sodiumpolyacrylate. It shows an improvedtolerance to electrolytes and can even beused in formulations with low pH values. Its crystal clear appearance also makes itideal for use in hair gels, while its viscosity-building effect makes it suitable for use asa co-stabiliser in skin care applications.
Antil Soft SC (Evonik). INCI name:Sorbitan sesquicaprylate. It is a liquidthickening agent for rinse-off formulationsthat improves foam creaminess andreduces moisture loss of skin and hair aftersurfactant treatment. It shows excellentthickening and solubilising properties invarious surfactant systems and works as a foam booster even in PEG-freeformulations. Antil Soft SC is very easy toprocess. It is PEG-free, based on naturalraw materials and readily biodegradable,which conforms to the Ecocert standard.
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New exfoliating ingredientCherry Powder, a new exfoliating ingredientsuitable for all types of skin, was beingpromoted by Laboratoires Expanscience. Madeby grinding the pits of Montmorency cherries,the ingredient can be used in shower gels andface and body scrubs. It washes awayimpurities, and restores radiance to the skinwhich is softened and which has tone evened.Furthermore, it facilitates easier penetration ofbeauty care products.
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Glycol advanceDuPont Tate & Lyle BioProducts was promoting Zemea propanediol, the world’s firstglycol approved by Ecocert as an ingredient of natural origin.
Derived from corn sugar, Zemea replaces petroleum-based glycols or glycerin inmany natural personal care formulations. Renewably-sourced, Zemea offers low odour,high purity, excellent humectancy and does not cause skin irritation or sensitisation,making it an attractive component of sustainable cosmetic formulations. It can be usedas a humectant, emollient, solvent, hand-feel modifier, viscosity enhancer, for botanicalextraction and dilution and as a carrier for other actives.
Self-tanMelanoBronze (Mibelle). INCI name: Vitexagnus-castus extract (and) acetyl tyrosine(and) glycerin (and) alcohol (and) aqua.MelanoBronze is a combination of acetyltyrosine – a stable pigment substrate – anda monk’s pepper berry extract (Vitex agnus-castus) that actively stimulates the melaninproduction in melanocytes. Natural self-tanning active to boost melanin production.
Tanositol (Provital). INCI name: Inositol.Natural active ingredient extracted from the fruits of carob trees, which intensifies,accelerates and prolongs suntan, alsoprotecting the skin from UV-induced ageing.
Skin protectionWacker-Belsil RG 90 (Wacker Chemie AG).This is a colourless, translucent siliconeelastomer gel. It forms a firm, readilyadhering film that is not tacky and feelssilky-soft. The gel increases the water andtransfer resistance of cosmetic productsand gives them a pleasant skin feel.Lipsticks, mascara and foundation keeptheir decorative effect for a long timebecause the gel enhances water andtransfer resistance. Also effective in kiss-proof lipsticks. In sunscreens and other skinprotection products this gel improves waterresistance. Wacker-Belsil RG 90 differs fromother silicone elastomer gels in that itsliquid constituent is isododecane, which isfound in the network cavities. Isododecaneis a volatile hydrocarbon used as a solventin cosmetics, making the skin supple.
Pro-Lipiskin (Silab). INCI name: Pichiaanomala extract. Pro-Lipiskin developedfrom a yeast, Pichia anomala, boosts allstages of the flow of epidermal lipids. It thus maintains or restores the lamellarlipid cement and restructures the barrierfunction.
Akorex L (AarhusKarlshamn). INCI name:Canola oil. Akorex L is a natural liquidemollient with a high content of tocopherols(300 ppm alpha-tocopherol and 600 ppmgamma-tocopherol) as well as phytosterols.It lowers the oxidative stress caused by UVradiation and environmental pollutants,making it a good ingredient for sun care and after-sun applications. It also protectsthe polyunsaturated fatty acids of cellmembranes and decreases the oxidation of
proteins and also reduces the inflammatoryreaction caused by UVB radiation.
Tego Turmerone (Evonik). INCI name:Curcuma longa (turmeric) root extract.Improved skin radiance and evenness of skin tones. It is the distilled fraction of turmeric oil extracted from the root ofCurcuma longa by supercritical carbondioxide and is standardised to turmerones(65%) content. Significant intrinsic anti-oxidant activity has been observed in in vitro experiments. Studies withreconstructed skin models challenged by UVB irradiation demonstrate theupregulation of genes involved endogenouscellular defence mechanisms againstoxidative stress.
Skin repairSeabuckthorn Seed CO2 extract (Flavex).INCI name: Hippophae rhamnoides(seabuckthorn) kernel extract. It is a fattyoil with a high content of polyunsaturatedfatty acids including 14% to 21% oleic acid(C18:1), 34% to 41% linoleic acid (C18:2)and 24% to 35% alpha-linolenic acid(C18:3), 1% to 6% of unsaponifiableingredients such as carotenoids, alkanols,tocopherols and sterols. It is used for casesof neurodermatitis and for the treatment of skin allergy.
REGU-CEA (DSM Pentapharm). INCIname: Spent grain wax, isomerised linoleicacid, behenic acid, palmitoyl tripeptide-5.Spent grain wax is known to offeroutstanding itch relieving, replenishing and skin-soothing properties. It also exertsanti-irritant effects and antihistaminicproperties. Palmitoyl tripeptide-5 stimulatesthe production of collagen, repairsextracellular matrix damage, and firms the skin. Its protective function is based on the inhibition of MMP expression andpro-inflammatory cytokines. Conjugatedlinoleic acid (CLA) helps to soothe the skinirritation and to recover epidermal barrierfunction. It also has antioxidativeproperties. Together these three selectedand carefully balanced ingredients formREGU-CEA. An effective weapon to fight the symptoms of rosacea.
Gatuline Skin-Repair Bio (Gattefossé).INCI name: Alcohol (and) water (and)Onopordum acanthium flower/leaf/stemextract. Gatuline Skin-Repair Bio directlystimulates epidermal regeneration andpromotes cutaneous repair. Acting onkeratinocyte differentiation it stimulates theoptimal epidermal reconstruction of dry ordamaged skin. For normal skin, it helps thenatural regeneration process for fresher,smoother and more radiant skin. This newmaterial is obtained by hydro-ethanolicextraction of the aerial parts of Onopordumacanthium.
Lipex Cellect (AarhusKarlshamn). INCI name: Phytosteryl canola glycerides.Lipex Cellect offers improved bioavailabilityof natural sterols, and potential moisturisingand soothing properties. The low meltingpoint makes it easy to formulate skin carecreams and lotions with an elegant skinfeel. It has been shown in vitro to haveanti-inflammatory properties as well aspotential soothing properties for sensitiveskin. These are important for sensitive andaged skin, characterised by a reducedcontent of skin lipids, especiallycholesterol, and conditions related to skininbalance and an inflammatory state.
SlimmingAmaraShape (Mibelle). INCI name: Citrusaurantium amara fruit extract (and)caffeine (and) lecithin (and) alcohol (and)pentylene glycol (and) aqua. AmaraShapeis a highly effective combination of fat-burning ingredients for topical treatment of thighs, buttocks, hips, waist and arms.Refines body contours, firms and tones,smoothes the skin. AmaraShape is anatural liposomal thermogenic complex of biologically active amines from bitterorange and caffeine. This new combinationof lipolytic substances (synephrine andcaffeine) works in a synergistic way toaccelerate the breakdown of lipids.
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Drawing attention to how it selects, refines andcustom blends high quality waxes was Strahl &Pitsch. New in its portfolio are Lite Natural WaxJelly, Natural Wax Jelly, Olive Butter, SunflowerButter, Emulfying Wax NF, and Natural LipBalm Base.
Aiming at body firmnessSolabia launched Camaderm GLY, a plant juice of black crowberries (Empetrum nigrum)from Lapland. Black crowberries are high in flavonoids and anthocyans. The juice isobtained by cold pressing in a non-denaturing condition, and is stabilised with vegetalglycerin.
Camaderm GLY is aimed at body firmness and anti-ageing products. It preventsdermal fibre degradation, improves microcirculation and the protection of peripheralvascularisation, increases skin tonicity, and has a preventative action against stretchmarks.
Drenalip (Provital). INCI name:Propanediol, water (aqua), Ruscusaculeatus root extract, Citrus medicalimonum peel extract, Solidago virgaureaextract, Astragalus membranaceus rootextract. Drenalip is a new standardisedcomplex containing four vegetal originactive ingredients designed to combat and reduce the factors leading to cellulite.These ingredients perform a combinedaction that leads to a reduction of adiposetissue, a decrease in swelling and animprovement in blood flow. Studies haveshown that Drenalip’s multi-functionalmechanism provides a higher level of efficacy than a single functionalmechanism.
Timiline (Greentech). INCI name:Polyglucuronic acid. It lessens the orangepeel skin effect, increases skin firmness,promotes a soothing effect and gives areduction of cellulite. Via Adipokine FIAF(synthesised by the adipocyte) it directlyinhibits the activity of the enzymelipoprotein lipase (LPL) with a significantdecrease in lipogenesis and hence fatstorage. It activates the enzyme adiposetriglyceride lipase (ATGL) a second lipasebut with an important role in the lipolysisand in the release of fatty acids, at thelipidic vacuoles level. Via the increase inthe synthesis of apolipoproteins, favoursthe transport of all these free fatty acidsfrom the adipocyte towards peripheraltissues to be used as energy source. It inhibits the differentiation of pre-adipocytes.
Sun careHelioguard 365 (Mibelle). INCI name:Aqua/water (and) lecithin (and) alcohol(and) sodium lactate (and) Porphyraumbilicalis (and) phenoxyethanol.
Helioguard 365 is the first natural UVA-screening active for daily protection. It is an answer for the high consumer demandfor natural photo-protection. Protects 365days against photo-ageing, from DNAdamage, and so helps to prevent theappearance of lines and wrinkles.Helioguard 365 is a liposomal preparationof mycosporine-like amino acids from thesea algea Porphyra umbilicalis.
Baycusan C 1000 (Bayer). Sun creamformulations with Baycusan C 1000 offerexcellent water resistance and a pleasantskin feel even at a high sun protectionfactor (>SPF 25). They give good non-sticky and non-greasy properties with highconcentrations of organic and inorganic UV filters.
SolTerra Boost (DOW/Amerchol). SolTerraBoost derived from cellulose is not an activeingredient but it helps to improve theefficacy and performance of inorganic UVfilters and inorganic/organic filter blends. It has a broad spectrum of activity andincreases both UVA and UVB protectionratings – it can increase SPF ratings bymore than 100%.
UVSymHelios 1031 (Symrise). INCI name:Benzylidene dimethoxydimethylindanone.SymHelios 1031 will prevent damage bythe UVB rays that pass through the UVfilters.
FootnoteIt is never possible to do a review of this nature without missing out a worthysupplier. Details of new concepts andproducts are always welcome, and should be sent to [email protected] Care always endeavours to cover newsworthy subjects. PPCC
Actives from South AmericaInternationally orientated Brazilian companyBeraca was promoting active ingredientsextracted from the Amazon and other Braziliansources. The company’s range includes fixedand essential oils, butters, clays and combinedfractions that enhance the performance ofvarious types of cosmetics.
BOTANICAL EXTRACTS
PARIS - 25, rue Georges Bizet 92000 NANTERRETél. 33 (0)1 42 42 05 05 - Fax 33 (0)1 42 42 32 02
LONDON - 1238 High Rd., WHETSTONE N20 OLHTel. 44 (0)20 8492 5600 - Fax 44 (0)20 8446 2670
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
DEVELOPMENT
TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE
n EUROPEAN & EXOTIC HERBSAfrica, China, India, Indonesia, Japan
n ORGANIC PLANTSn SEAWEEDS
CERAMIDES & DNA from wheat nSYNATURACT, specific complexes n
RELIFOL 25 & 50, anti-ageing nH.W.C., skin lightening agent n
ANDAWALINE, antioxidant nA.H.A. & B.H.A. n
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Expertise in range of technologiesLubrizol, with its Noveon Consumer Specialties Division, was emphasising how theapplication of polymer science to the needs of personal care customers has helped itcreate building blocks for success. Offered to the personal care formulator is muchmore than rheology control agents. Today, Lubrizol/Noveon Consumer Specialtiesprovide expertise in a range of personal care ingredient technologies, including thoseinvolving acrylic polymers, urethanes, silicones, high quality surfactants, methylglucoside derivatives, lanolin and lanolin derivatives plus a number of other formulationadditives such as nonionic emulsifiers, alcohol ethoxylates and isopropyl esters.
