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Perm Wave (8 hours)Continuing Education Course - Cosmetic Art
Presented byContinuingCosmetology.com
PO Box 691296Orlando, FL 32869
T. D. CostnerCosmetology Instructor / Program Director
Permanent Waving
Learning Objectives:
• List implements of the permanent wave service
• Explain wrapping techniques
• Describe types of permanent wave solutions
• Identify types of roll-ups and procedures
Introduction: The following information reviews basic knowledge and skill in permanent wave services to include procedures, techniques and chemical solution types.
Permanent waving is a two step process involving a chemical change of the hair in order to form curls. The hair is chemically treated in order to achieve the formation of the shape of the rod used.
Perm wrapping is in essence a wet set on perm rods instead of rollers.
The size and shape of the rod determines the amount of curl in size as well as shape. The wrapping method also determines the appearance of the curl.
Perm Rods and Wrapping Techniques
Concave rods are the most common modern perm rod used today.
Concave means that the inside of the rod, the diameter, is smaller than the ends of the rod.
When performing a “regular” roll-up, the concave rod creates a smaller curl in the center of the hair strand and a larger curl on the ends of the hair strand.
These rods come in different sizes in diameter.
Croquignole Wrap Method
The standard roll-up or wrapping method also known as the “regular” roll-up or croquignole method, is when the strand is wrapped over itself evenly.
The strand is rolled from the ends to the scalp. Each rotation is directly over the previous.
This makes the ends of the hair a smaller or “tighter” curl than at the scalp.
Straight rods are not concave but are evenly sized throughout the length of the rod. They come in different sizes of diameter and two different lengths, long and short.
Soft bender rods are soft foam on the outside with an internal wire that makes the rod bendable. They are not concave and do not fasten, they simply bend and stay in the shape that you leave them against the head after winding the hair.
Loop or Circle rods – are very similar to soft bender rods in that they are bendable. They are not concave and they form a circle and fasten at the ends.
Wrapping – the hair on any rod can be wrapped in a spiral fashion or croquignole method.
The Spiral Wrap- is the technique of winding the hair at an angle on the rod causing the strand to look like the grip material on a tennis racket, with each wind touching the last and can slightly overlap, so there is no visible space between rotations.
The Piggyback Wrap is used when the hair is long. Two rods are used on the same hair strand.
With the first rod, you wind the hair strand beginning approximately halfway down the strand and wrap as a regular roll-up, being careful to hold the end of the hair strand out of the way while wrapping.
Once that rod is finished and secured to the head, begin at the end of the hair strand with a second rod and wind the hair as usual and securing it into position against the first rod.
The term piggyback originated in 1555-1565 as the word pickback. The term evolved into the word pickaback by the year 1580-1590. The term was transformed by mispronunciation to form the term piggyback, but has been accepted with the same meaning.
End Papers are absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair strand when winding the hair on the rods.
End wraps should always extend beyond the hair ends so hair can not stick out and be misshaped during the curling process.
The hair within the end wrap should be combed smooth as possible to achieve the best and most beautiful curl.
End Wrap Techniques
There are several ways to use end wraps.
The Double Flat Wrap: is where you use 2 end wraps, one placed under the strand and one place on top, sandwiching the strand between the two papers.
The Single Flat Wrap: is where you use 1 end wrap placed on top of the hair strand.
The Bookend Wrap: is where you use one end paper folded in half. You sandwich the hair strand inside and between the 2 sides of the folded wrap.
Hair Sectioning
The beginning of any permanent wave service is the sectioning of the hair.
This is the pre-planning stage and is a necessary process to get a beautiful end result.
Divide the hair into panels and decide the pattern and sizes of your rods. Determine where you need more curl or less curl.
Each panel is then divided into subsections called base sections.
Each base section is where the rod rests and should be the length and width of that rod.
After winding, the perm rod will rest either on-base, half-off base or off base. The science behind these positions are for the determination of fullness desired at the scalp.
Rod Placement
On-base placement is where the hair is held and wrapped at a 45º beyond perpendicular to it's base section. This creates a curl pattern that begins closest to the scalp.
Half off-base placement is where the hair is held and wrapped at a 90º from the center of it's base section.
Off-base placement is where the hair is held and wrapped at a 45º angle below the center of the base section. This creates a curl pattern that begins farthest away from the scalp.
The Chemistry and Types of Permanent Wave Formulations
Through chemical applications and mechanical procedures, straight hair can be made curly and curly hair can be made straight.
Alkaline WavesAlso known as cold waves, alkaline waves are processed at room temperature. As the name indicates the pH of alkaline waves rage between 9.0 and 9.6.
Acid WavesGlyderyl monothioglycolate is an acid with a low pH and is an ingredient in permanent waves.
To be an acid wave the pH is between 4,5 and 7.0 and require heat to process. They generally cause less damage to hair but take longer to process.
Acid-Balanced Waves
These formulations have a pH between 7.8 and 8.2. These perms process at room temperature.
Thio-Free WavesThio-Free Waves use a substitute for Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG) as the primary reducing agent in the waving formula.
Commonly, the substitutes used are cysteamine or mercaptamine which while not technically being ATG are still thio compounds.
Thio-Free In high concentrations these can be as damaging as thio to the hair.
Thio-Free Waves have the benefits of processing at room temperature, and produce medium to fine curls.
The Thio-Free Wave is suited for use on normal to porous hair types, and can be gentler on the hair depending on the individual formula used.
Since the strength varies from manufacturer to manufacturer be sure to use caution in selecting and using a new formula.
Low-pH WavesLow-pH waves use an alternative formula for their waving solutions.
Instead of Ammonium Thioglycolate, low-pH waves use sulfates, sulfites and bisulfites as their primary ingredients.
These formulations are very gentle since they work at a low pH, but while they have been in use for years, they are not very popular.
The trouble is that the permanent waves based on sulfites are very weak and do not provide firm curls. Because of this they are often marketed for use in body wave services.
The weak formulation of Low-pH waves make them suited for use with fine and damaged hair or in cases where a gentle wave is desired as opposed to firm curl.
Low-pH waves are endothermic waves and will need the heat of a hair dryer.
How does the hair curl?
The formation of disulfide bonds has a direct application in producing curls in hair by the permanent wave process.
Hair keratin consists of many protein alpha-helices.
Three alpha-helices are interwoven into a left-handed coil called a protofibril.
Eleven protofibrils are bonded and coiled together to make a microfibril.
Hundreds of these microfibrils are cemented into an irregular bundle called a macrofibril.
These in turn are mixed with dead and living cells to make a complete strand of hair.
Although it may seem incredible, in order for hair to grow 6 inches in one year, 9-1/2 turns of a -helix must be produced every second.
The alpha-helices are extensively cross-linked with disulfide bonds from cysteine. These bonds enable keratin to have a somewhat elastic nature.
If the alpha -helices stretch unevenly past each other, the disulfide cross-links return them to the original position when the tension is released.
Disulfide BondsDisulfide bonds are formed by oxidation of the sulfhydryl groups on cysteine. Different protein chains or loops within a single chain are held together by the strong covalent disulfide bonds. The alpha-helices in the hair strands are bonded by disulfide links.
Reducing AgentIn the permanent wave process, a basic reducing substance, usually ammonium thioglycolate, is first added to reduce and rupture some of the disulfide cross-links.
Temporary WaveWhen the hair gets wet, water molecules intrude into the keratin strands.
The sheer numbers of water molecules are able to disrupt some of the hydrogen bonds which also help to keep the alpha-helices aligned.
The helices are able to slip past each other and will retain a new shape in the hair drying process as new hydrogen bonds are formed.
The hair strands are able for a short time to maintain the new curl in the hair.
The Perm
For a permanent wave, we will continue the discussion from the use of the reducing agent.
The hair is put on rollers or curlers.
Since the alpha-helices are no longer tightly cross-linked to each other, the alpha-helices can shift positions in relation to each other.
An oxidizing agent, usually a dilute solution of hydrogen peroxide, (also called the neutralizer) is added to reform the disulfide bonds in their new positions.
The permanent will hold these new disulfide bond positions until the hair grows out, since new hair growth is of course not treated.
When the chemical wave was developed, it was a breakthrough for many women who had long undergone repetitive and sometimes torturous treatments to get the curls they desired.
So therefore today, the list includes: Alkaline Waves, True Acid Waves, Acid-Balanced Waves, Exothermic Waves, Endothermic Waves, Ammonia-Free Waves, Thio-Free Waves, and Low-pH Waves.
Each formulation of permanent wave has its own reasoning and purpose for being, since there are so many different hair types.
It’s important to understand permanent waving and the pros and cons of the different formulations in order to know what’s best for a given individual’s hair.
Let’s look at the various Permanent Wave types, what makes them special, and for which hair type and condition they are best suited for
True Acid Waves - The first true acid waves were introduced in the early 1970s and use Glyceryl Monothioglycolate as the key ingredient.
Because they have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0 typically, they process much more slowly and usually require the application of heat from an outside source to process the hair.
The comparative mild formulation of an acid wave means it is much gentler on the hair, but also means that the processing will take longer and the resultant curl is often less firm than that achieved with alkaline perms.
Acid waves are ideal for use on extremely porous hair or hair that has been very damaged, while it is likely to be of little effect on coarser or more resistant hair types.
All acid waves have three components: a waving solution, an activator, and a neutralizer.
The activator contains the agent Glyceryl Monothioglycolate (GMTG) and should be considered carefully before deciding to use an Acid Wave since repeated exposure to GMTG is known to cause allergic sensitivity in both stylists and clients.
As stated, Acid-Balanced Waves - Because of the level of added effort and difficulty in processing a True Acid wave, the strength and pH of acid waves has been increased over the years to allow for easier, and simpler processing.
Most acid waves found in salons today have a pH of between 7.8 and 8.2 which isn’t truly acidic. These are now called Acid-Balanced Waves.
In addition to speeding up the processing and allowing for the wave to process at room temperature, and without the need for use of a hair dryer to provide added heat.
Acid-balanced waves create firmer curl results than a true acid wave.
They are great for use with hair that is porous and possibly damaged because they are gentler than most alkaline waves.
Exothermic WavesAn exothermic wave is called exothermic because of the chemical reactions involved in the waving process.
An exothermic chemical reaction produces heat , and an Exothermic Wave uses exothermic chemical reactions to produce heat as a way to speed up the processing time of the permanent wave.
Exothermic waves have three components (like acid waves): waving solution, activator and neutralizer.
The waving solution contains thio just as in a cold wave and the activator contains an oxidizing agent (usually hydrogen peroxide).
Combining the two creates a rapid release of heat and an increase in the temperature of the solution.
The increased temperature increases the rate of the chemical reactions in the hair and shortens the required time to process the curl.
Exothermic waves are good for coarse, thick and/or resistant hair types, typically process faster than alkaline waves and create firm, strong curls.
However, like an alkaline perm, exothermic waves can damage delicate hair and often has a strong, unpleasant ammonia odor.
Endothermic WavesAn Endothermic Wave is opposite to the Exothermic wave.
Where the exothermic wave generates its own heat using a specific type of chemical reaction, the Endothermic Wave utilizes reactions that absorb the heat from its surroundings.
This means that they are only activated by an outside heat source – typically a conventional hooded hair dryer.As is obvious, most True-Acid waves are endothermic, but not all endothermic waves are “true” acid waves.
Ammonia-Free WavesAmmonia-Free waves use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so there is very little odor associated with their use.
One common substitute for ammonia is an alkanolamine, such as aminomethylpropanol and monoethanolamine.
These ammonia-free waves generally process the same as standard alkaline waves but since the substitutes for the ammonia don’t evaporate as readily as ammonia, there is typically very little odor associated with their use.
Ammonia-free waves are generally suited to use on hair that is porous to normal in resistance level, processes at room temperature, and typically generates medium to fine curls. While these waves may not smell as strongly as ammonia, they can still be every bit as alkaline and just as damaging.
Remember that ammonia-free doesn’t mean damage-free.
Cold Waves in HistoryIn 1938, Arnold F. Willatt invented the cold wave, the precursor to the modern perm.
It used no machines and no heat.
The entire process took 6–8 hours at room temperature.
In the 1970s, acid perms were invented.
These use glycerol monothioglycolate instead and contain no ammonia.
Perms today use this method with sodium thioglycolate instead of ammonium thioglycolate.
This method takes only 15–30 minutes until the neutralizer is applied to bring down the pH and rebond the hair.
Structure of Hair
Learning Objectives:
• List parts of the hair
• Define bonds
• Describe the hair follicle
• Define alopecia
• List hair classifications
Introduction: The following information reviews basic structure and functions of hair to include parts of the hair, classifications of the hair and conditions of the hair.
Hair Structure
Hair is composed primarily of proteins.
These proteins are of a hard fibrous type known as keratin.
Keratin protein is comprised of polypeptide chains.
The word, polypeptide, comes from the Greek word poly meaning many and peptos meaning digested or broken down.
If we break down protein, we have individual amino acids. Many poly amino acids joined together form a polypeptide chain.
Two amino acids are joined together by a peptide bond, and the correct number of amino acids placed in their correct order will form a specific protein; Keratin or collagen.
The alpha helix is the descriptive term given to the polypeptide chain that forms the keratin protein found in human hair.
Its structure is a coil. The amino acids link together to form the coil and there are approximately 3.6 amino acids per turn of the helix coil.
The peptide bond is located between the carbon atom of one amino acid extending to bond with the nitrogen atom of the next amino acid.
HAIR
The A Helix Coil In the organization of a single hair, three alpha helices are twisted together to form a protofibril.
This is actually the first fibril structure of the hair.
Nine protofibrils are then bundled in a circle around two or more to form an eleven-stranded cable known as the microfibril.
These microfibrils are embedded in an amphorous unorganized protein matrix of high sulfur content.
Hundreds of such microfibrils are cemented into an irregular fibrous bundle called a macrofibril.
These macrofibrils are grouped together to form the cortex or the main body layers of the hair fiber.
Packed dead cells surround these structures and are known as the cuticular layers of the hair.
In the center of these structures lies the medulla, which is a part of the excretory system and houses any foreign debris, heavy metals, synthetics and medications that are thrown off by the body and eventually released through the medullary canal.
Bonding in Keratin Protein When the hair is in its normal unstretched state, it is referred to as A of alpha keratin. The original configuration of the hair is held in place by the bonding found in the cortex layers of the hair.
The Hydrogen Bond The hydrogen bond is located between the coils of the alpha helix and is responsible for the ability of the hair to be stretched and return back to its original shape.
The hydrogen bonds allow us to change the shape of the hair temporarily with the aid of water.
These bonds are electrolytically controlled and are the most readily broken down and the most readily reformed. These bonds are responsible for approximately 35% of the strength of the hair and 50% of the hair's elasticity.
The Salt Bond The salt bond is also an ionic bond formed by the electron transfer from the side chain of a basic amino group to the side chain of an acidic amino acid. This is two positive and negative charges attracting one another. The salt bond is responsible for approximately 35% of the strength of the hair and 50% of the hair's elasticity.
The Cystine Bond The cystine bond also known as the disulfide bond, sulfur bond, or just S bond is formed by cross-links between cystine residues, amino acids, of the main polypeptide chains.
This bond is perpendicular to the axis of the hair and between the polypeptide chains.
Because of its position in the hair, it is responsible for the hair's toughness or abrasion resistance.
It actually holds the hair fibers together.
These cross-links are frequent in the hair fiber, with maximum of frequency of one cystine bond every four turns of the alpha helix.
This is what enables us to permanent wave the hair.
The Sugar Bond The sugar bond is formed between the side chain of an amino acid having an OH group and an acidic amino group.
This bond is also formed perpendicular to the axis of the hair. Because of its position, it gives the hair toughness but little strength, about 5%. Some moisture is contributed to the hair as a by-product of this bonding.
Hair FactsHair is dead material when it leaves it's root, and we feel no pain when it is cut.
A person with blond hair has more hairs than red or dark haired people.
Hair is strong as a similar sized wire of iron.
It rips only after applying a force equivalent to 60kg, after it stretched itself for about 70%.
The hair grows an average rate of half of an inch per month. The growth rate does vary somewhat from person to person.
Healthy hair has an average lifetime of 2 to 6 years. After a rest period of three months the single hair falls out, and a new hair starts to grow.
Human beings have about one million and a half hairs on their entire body, with about four hundred and fifty thousand of them to be found above the neck.
These hairs include about one hundred thousand hairs on the head and about thirty thousand hairs taken up by mustaches, beards, or whiskers.
Hair grows at a faster rate in the spring and summer than in autumn and winter.
The sebaceous glands, next to the hair follicle, supply sebum. This mixture of triglycerides, waxes and squalene form a film on the surface of the skin and lubricate the hair, thus preserving its suppleness and sheen.
Being hormone dependent, the sebum can be produced in excessive quantities, making the hair greasy and heavy. On the other hand, if too little is secreted, the hair becomes damaged, dry and dull.
Melanin is responsible for the natural color of hair. Produced deep in the root by the melanocytes, it is transmitted to the keratinocyte as the hair is formed.
Melanin is 1% of the total composition of the hair and is in the form of two pigments: eumelanin, dark, and phaeomelanin, light.
Hair FollicleThe follicle is where a hair is formed. The follicle is an epidermal cavity within the dermis .
The Biological Formation of Hair
In the basal layer of the epithelial tissue cells multiply and create a bud-like structure.
Under this bud, connective cells clump together; these cells will be the origin of the dermal papilla and the connective tissue sheath.
The epithelial bud pushes down into the connective tissue.
On this epithelial column, two bulges appear: one will become the sebaceous gland, while the other will be the point at which the arrector muscle will be inserted.
This column meets the dermal papilla and attaches itself to it almost entirely surrounding it, itself being enclosed within the connective tissue sheath which has developed from the base of the papilla.
This union between the epithelial component and the dermal component marks the true birth of the hair follicle. It is at this stage that the construction of the hair really begins.
The papilla becomes the driving force of the follicle. Under its direction, the cells situated in the deeper part of the epithelial component, the matrix, multiply very rapidly.
Some form the external and internal epithelial sheaths of the follicle.
Others form the hair shaft. Unable to develop downwards, these cells will move upwards and the hair shaft will pierce the superficial layer of the epidermis, making the hair finally visible.
Throughout life, it is these same developmental processes which will continue to occur producing the growth cycle of hair.
Alopecia
Within every head of hair, each hair grows, falls out and then grows again. Despite differences in speed of growth, all hair follows this timeless cycle.
It is capable of reproducing itself many times over.
Sometimes this regeneration of hair stops and the condition of hair loss begins.
The loss of hair is called alopecia . Baldness is its most intense form.
While the deeper underlying causes of alopecia are still poorly understood, certain phenomena associated with it have been discovered.
Just before the hair falls out, hair follicle connective tissue sheath becoming rigid. The hardening of this sheath slows the development of the hair follicle.
The hair can not thrive and begins to become thin.
Cycle after cycle, the follicle becomes smaller and finally, only produces a down like hair.
As alopecia progresses, hairs are replaced less and less and the proportion of hair decreases, causing the progressive decreasing of hair density.
Age related thinning begins most profoundly at about the age of 50.
Hair Classifications
African hair, Asian hair, and Caucasian hair
It is true that Japanese hair is not the same as Indonesian hair and Swedish hair has no resemblance to African hair or Brazilian hair.
There are dynamic differences in comparing hair attributes of these 3 groups. These groups have their own unique qualities regarding hair density, speed of growth and hair follicle in the scalp.
For example, Asian hair holds the speed record for growth with 1.3 cm a month. On the other hand, it has lower density than any of the other ethnic groups.
The way its follicle is implanted causes the hair to grow straight, perpendicular to the scalp.
African hair, generally black hair, is the slowest growing of all, at less than 0.9 cm a month. On the other hand it is slightly more dense than Asian hair and grows almost parallel to the scalp, twisting around itself as it grows.
As far as rate of growth is concerned, Caucasian hair comes between the other two at 1.2 cm a month, but it has the highest density of all. It grows at an oblique angle to the scalp and is slightly curved.
Water and the Hair Wet hair is heavier than dry hair: this seems obvious and it is. However, this simple observation illustrates an important characteristic of hair: it is permeable.
Despite the close fitting scales of its cuticle and the sebum which naturally coats it, a hair in good condition can absorb more than 30% of its own weight of water.
If the hair is damaged this absorption percentage can reach 45%. Its length can thus increase by 2% and its diameter by 15% to 20%. In cosmetics, this swelling is used to good effect to make large molecules penetrate into the body of the hair. This is the case for hair color.
Water can intensify the effects of sunlight on the hair. Melanin degrades faster and hair color fades quicker if the hair is wet in the sunlight. The keratin can become damaged making the hair more brittle.
Static ElectricityThe contact of hair with certain synthetic garments and objects can produce sparks.
Your winter sweater can make your hair stand up on your head.
A balloon rubbed on a wall can produce enough static electricity that when hovered over the head, the hair will stand on end as it is attracted upward to the balloon.These phenomena are associated with the hair's ability to become charged with static electricity.
Since keratin is a good insulator, it is mainly friction which gives hair an electric charge.It increases when the hair cuticle is damaged.
The more damaged the hair cuticle, the more of the exchange of electric charges. It decreases when the hair is damp.
Light ReflectionThe reflection of light is what gives hair the appearance of sheen and shine.
Damaged hair can change the way that light is reflected from it's surface therefore making the hair appear dull.
The damage of the hair cuticle can be felt with the human hand and therefore the Cosmetologist can be sensitive to it's condition during the analysis process of the client's hair.
The rough outer scales of the hair shaft can be detected. Damaged hair can develop tangles much easier due to these roughed up cuticle layers.
Erosion and weathering of the hair occurs when the hair is repeatedly exposed to environmental elements. Hair products can soften the effects and protect the hair from these external attacks.
The use of hair products can maintain and even renew the light reflecting qualities contained in health hair.
Scalp and Hair Hair is naturally lubricated by a thin layer of sebum, produced by the sebaceous glands. This sebum is essential to provide the hair with protection, flexibility and shine.
But under the influence of hormonal factors, the production of sebum can become abnormally high.The hair can become over saturated with sebum which in turn causes the hair to attract dirt.
Shampoo will not lather up in over oily hair and will require repeated shampoo applications in order to complete a thorough cleansing process.
Conditions of the Scalp and Skin
Learning Objectives:
• List common daily terms used in a salon
• Name pigmentation abnormalities
• List inflammations of the skin
• Identify skin lesions
• Describe contagious disorders
Introduction: The following information reviews basic terms and minor factors of the scalp and skin..
SALON SERVICES:
The following definitions are some of the most commonly used terms in salons when analyzing yourself or your client. From the hair color patch test to a simple shampoo/blow-dry service, these terms are reminders of condition awareness before ever serving a client or fellow professional.
SALON SERVICES: Daily terms:Allergy Physical reaction by the skin due to exposure to a substance.Contagious CommunicableDisease The pathological interference of the normal function of the body or it's partsDisorder An abnormal condition that is usually not contagious Infectious The ability of a bacteria to enter the body Inflammation A skin disorder characterized by redness, pain, edema, and heat.Occupational Due to the activity of your job, possibly repetitive.Parasitic The type of any condition caused by animal or vegetable parasites.Seasonal Effects due to the exposure of changes in weather occurring throughout the year.
Bacteria and viruses can invade through an injury or opening of the skin.
The skin is made up of natural occurring barriers that protect us from undesirable environmental elements from entering our body
There can be skin and scalp conditions present that range from simple irritations to severe diseases of skin, scalp or other areas of the body. The Salon Professional must determine if she can give certain salon services to these clients. Products may worsen some conditions.
Common conditions of pigmentation abnormalities
The following conditions are generally not irritated or worsened by salon services. However, always ask the client if he/she has any sensitivity to products or chemicals before performing salon services especially if you are in question about a condition.
SALON SERVICES: Pigmentation abnormalitiesAlbinism Congenital condition in which there is an absence of melanin pigment. Chloasma Patches of increased deposits of pigment in the skin are also known as liver spots.Leucoderma Light patches on the skin due to congenital defective pigmentations.Naevus A birthmark also known as portwine or strawberry that can be small or large and that
includes the malformation of skin due to pigmentation or dilated capillaries.Lentigo Small spots that can be yellow to brown in color. Vitiligo The type of condition of leucoderma that can affect skin or hair.
Skin Pigment Disorders
Skin color is determined by a pigment, melanin made by specialized cells in the skin, melanocytes. The amount and type of melanin determines a person's skin color.
Melanin gives color to the skin, hair, and iris of the eyes. Levels of melanin depend on race and amount of sunlight exposure.
Sun exposure increases melanin production - to protect the skin against harmful ultraviolet rays.
VitiligoVitiligo is a disorder in which white patches of skin appear on different parts of the body.
This happens because the cells that make pigment, in the skin are destroyed.
The cause is not known.
In the United States, 2 to 5 million people have the disorder. Most people with vitiligo develop it before the age of 40.
The disorder affects all races and both genders equally.
White patches on the skin are the main sign of vitiligo.
These patches are more common in areas where the skin is exposed to the sun. The patches may be on the hands, feet, arms, face, scalp, and lips.
SALON SERVICES: The following conditions can be irritated or made worse during a salon service. Certain chemicals, products and even tap water can cause irritation to clients with eczema or psorasis.
Scalp and skin conditions can be minimal or they can be severe. The skin might be broken or blood could be present.
SALON SERVICES: Inflammations of the skin:Eczema Dry or moist lesions accompanied by itching and burning that usually has red-blisters and
oozing. Psoriasis Lesions that are often round and are dry. Occurring in patches, they are covered with
coarse, silvery scales. When irritated, they bleed.
PsoriasisPsoriasis is a chronic skin condition characterized by inflamed, red, raised areas that often develop as silvery scales on the scalp, elbows, knees, and lower back.
Psoriasis is estimated to affect between 5 million to 7 million people in the US.
The cause of psoriasis is unknown, however, it is thought to be caused by abnormally fast-growing and shedding skin cells.
The skin cells multiply quickly causing the skin to shed every three to four days. Though not contagious, the condition is hereditary. Psoriasis is often recurrent and occurs in varying severity.
Types of PsoriasisPsoriasis has several forms and levels of severity.
➢ discoid psoriasisAlso called plaque psoriasis, this type of psoriasis is the most common. It may include patches of red, raised skin on the trunk, arms, legs, knees, elbows, and scalp. Nails may also thicken, become pitted, and separate from the nail beds.
➢ guttate psoriasisThis type may include many small patches of red, raised skin.
➢ pustular psoriasisIt may include small pustules (pus-containing blisters) all over the body or just on the palms, soles, and other small areas.
SALON SERVICES: Contact Dermatitis
Contact dermatitis is a physiological reaction that occurs after skin comes in contact with certain substances.
The majority of these reactions are caused by irritants to the skin.
Contact dermatitis caused by an irritant occurs from direct contact with the irritant.
Adults are most commonly affected by allergic contact dermatitis, but it can affect persons of all ages.
CausesThe most common causes of allergic contact dermatitis include the following:• soaps /shampoos/ cosmetic products
• detergents or bleaches not rinsed well from the shampoo bowel
• saturated towels left around the patron's neck during a permanent wave or other chemical service
• cosmeticsMany types of cosmetics can cause allergic contact dermatitis. Permanent hair dyes that contain paraphenylenediamine are the most frequent causes. Other products that may cause problems include dyes used in clothing, perfumes, eye shadow, nail polish, lipstick, and some sunscreens
Reactions include:
• mild redness and swelling of the skin
• blistering of the skin
• itching
• scaling and temporary thickening of skin
SALON SERVICES: Skin lesions
Condition Awareness
The following conditions usually involve broken skin or bleeding.
These may occur on the scalp or any area of the skin. Do not come in contact with body fluids.
SALON SERVICES: Conditions of broken skin and body fluidsBulla A blister containing body fluids. Crust ScabExcoriation An abrasion caused by injury such as a scrape.Fissure A crack in the skin that penetrates the dermal layer.Scale The accumulation of flakes of the epidermal layer. Ulcer Open lesions on the skin.Vesicle A blister that contains body fluid within or just beneath the epidermis, an example is
poison ivy.Wheal An itchy, swollen lesion that is temporary, for example: a mosquito bite.
SALON SERVICES: Public Health: Contagious disorders
Fungal infections of the skin are contagious.
Skin fungi live in the dead, top layer of skin cells in moist areas of the body, such as the scalp.
These fungal infections cause only a small amount of irritation.
Other types of fungal infections penetrate deeper and may cause itching, swelling, blistering, and scaling.
In some cases, fungal infections can cause reactions elsewhere on the body.
For example, a person may develop a rash on the scalp after touching an infected foot.
SALON SERVICES: Ringworm is contagious.
Condition Awareness
Tinea infections:Ringworm
"Ringworm" is a misleading term that refers to the circular appearance of the fungal lesion. There are no worms involved.
Different fungi, depending on their location on the body, cause ringworm.
Ringworm is characterized by ring-shaped, red, scaly patches with clearing centers.
Tinea is ringworm caused by fungus, a vegetable parasite, that includes symptoms of scaling of the skin.
It can effect the skin of the scalp, face or neck.
Body ringworm (tinea corporis): This skin infection is characterized by a ring-like rash anywhere on the body or the face.
The effects of body ringworm may include:
• red, circular lesion with raised edges
• the middle of the lesion may become less red as the lesion grows
• itching of the affected area
Because the fungi can live indefinitely on the skin, recurrences of ringworm are likely.
Wellness of the Professional Cosmetologist
Learning Objectives:
• List the foods of a healthy diet
• Identify the positive effects of exercise on the body
• Explain how posture correlates with good health
• Describe the science behind proper sleep
• Describe in brief the history behind hygiene
• Identify the cause and effect of perspiration
• Explain how bacteria plays a part in hygiene
• List ways to perform personal care techniques
Introduction: The information contained in this lesson reviews the Professional Cosmetologist's
knowledge of self care and personal health.
A healthy diet is one of the most important things you can do to help your overall health.
Along with physical activity, your diet is a key factor that affects your weight.
Having a healthy weight for your height is important.
Being overweight or obese increases your risk of heart disease, diabetes, high blood pressure, cancer, stroke, arthritis, osteoarthritis, gallbladder disease, sleep apnea and breathing problems.
Dietary Guidelines for a healthy diet are: fruits, vegetables, whole grains, and fat-free or low-fat milk products; lean meats, poultry, fish, beans, eggs, and nuts; and a diet low in saturated fats, cholesterol, salt, and sugar.
Dining Out Make substitutions, like having steamed vegetables instead of fries.
Choose lean meat, fish, or skinless chicken. Choose broiled, baked, grilled, steamed, or poached meats. Ask for baked, boiled, or roasted potatoes. Order vegetable side dishes without butter or sauce.
Use low-fat salad dressing or lemon on your salad. Order fresh fruit or fruit sorbet in place of cake, pie, or ice cream desserts.
Portion Awareness
Eating the right amount of food at each meal is important. Even if you are a healthy eater, you could hurt your efforts by eating more than the recommended amount of food.
Hear are some examples of serving sizes.
• A serving of meat, boneless and cooked is two to three ounces, or roughly the size of the palm of your hand or a deck of cards.
• A serving of chopped vegetables or fruit is 1/2 cup. A serving of fresh fruit is one medium piece.
• A serving of cereal is 1/2 cup.
A healthy diet will help you either lose weight or keep you at a healthy weight.
It is well balanced with foods from all food groups: fruits, vegetables, whole-grains, lean meats or soy and fat-free or low-fat milk products.
A health diet is low in fat, and cholesterol.
Beneficial oils come from fish, nuts, and vegetable oils.
The color of fruits and vegetables play a roll in the amount of nutrients they contain.
The deeper the color, the more nutritious they have.
A healthy diet: will provide a well balanced supply of sufficient fiber and nutrient-dense whole foods such as whole grains, fruits and vegetables. Exercise
Exercise is very important for personal health.Being physically active can provide many benefits:
• It lowers your risk of getting heart disease, stroke, high blood pressure, colon cancer, and diabetes.
• It lowers high blood pressure.
• It helps keep your bones, muscles, and joints healthy.
• It reduces anxiety and depression and improves your mood.
• It gives you more energy.
• And it helps you sleep better.
We should all get at least 30 minutes of moderate physical activity per day. Most people can get even greater health benefits by being physically activity for a longer duration and with more intensity.
Here are some tips that will help motivate you to participate in physical activity:
• Choose an activity that's fun.
• Alternate your activities, so you don't get bored.
• Doing housework, gardening, yard work, and walking the dog are great to get you moving.
• Create opportunities for activity, such as parking your car farther away,
taking the stairs instead of the elevator.
• Exercise with a friend or family member.
• Make your activity a regular part of your day, so it becomes a habit.
It's easy to see how important diet and exercise is to our wellness.
Let's turn our attention to another important topic for all Professional Cosmetologists: Posture
Posture
Posture is the position that you hold your body while standing, sitting or lying down.
Good posture involves training your body to stand, walk, sit and lie in positions where the least strain is placed on supporting muscles and ligaments during movement or weight-bearing activities. • Proper posture will keep your bones and joints in the correct alignment so that your muscles
are being used properly.
• Proper posture will help decrease the abnormal wearing of joint surfaces that could result in arthritis.
• It will decrease the stress on the ligaments holding the joints of the spine together.
• It also prevents the spine from becoming fixed in abnormal positions.
• Proper posture will prevent fatigue because muscles are being used more efficiently, allowing the
body to use less energy.
• It will prevent strain or overuse problems that result in backache and muscular pain.
• And of course we know that good posture contributes to a healthy appearance.
The Correct Standing Position
1. Hold your head up straight with your chin in. Do not tilt your head forward, backward or sideways.
2. Make sure your earlobes are in line with the middle of your shoulders.
3. Keep your shoulder blades back and down.
4. Keep your chest up.
5. Keep your knees straight but not locked.
6. Stretch the top of your head toward the ceiling.
7. Tuck your stomach in. Do not tilt your pelvis forward or backward.
8. The arches in your feet should be supported.
9. Avoid standing in the same position for a long time.
10. If possible, adjust the height of the work table to a comfortable level.
11.When standing, try to elevate one foot by resting it on a stool or box. After several minutes, switch
your foot position.
Correct Positions for Stooping, Squatting and Kneeling
• Decide which position to use.
• Kneel when you have to go down as far as a squat.
• For each of these positions, face the object, keep your feet apart, tighten your stomach muscles and lower yourself using your legs.
So we see how Diet, Exercise and Posture are key elements in our wellness.
How About Sleep?
Getting a good night's sleep is the best way to insure that you have days full of
energy with a positive mood.
Here are some tried and true rules to help you sleep better.
Maintain a regular bed and wake time schedule including weekends.
Our sleep-wake cycle is regulated by a circadian clock in our brain and the body's need to balance both sleep time and wake time.
A regular waking time in the morning strengthens the circadian function and can help with sleep onset at night.
That is also why it is important to keep a regular bedtime and wake-time, even on the weekends when there is the temptation to sleep in.
Establish a regular, relaxing bedtime routine such as soaking in a hot bath or hot tub and then reading a book or listening to soothing music.
A relaxing routine activity right before bedtime, conducted away from bright lights, helps separate your sleep time from activities that can cause excitement, stress or anxiety.
Both bright light and excitement make it more difficult to fall asleep, get sound and deep sleep or remain asleep.
Avoid arousing activities before bedtime like working, paying bills, engaging in competitive games or family problem-solving.
Some studies suggest that soaking in hot water such as a hot tub or bath before retiring to bed can ease the transition into deeper sleep.
Avoid exposure to bright light before bedtime because it signals the neurons that help control the sleep-wake cycle that it is time to awaken, not to sleep.
Create a sleep-conducive environment that is dark, quiet, comfortable and cool.
Design your sleep environment to establish the conditions you need for sleep – cool, quiet, dark, comfortable and free of interruptions.
Make your bedroom reflective of the value you place on sleep.
• Check your room for noise or other distractions such as light, or another person's snoring.
• Consider using blackout curtains, or a sleep mask.
• Sleep on a comfortable mattress and pillows.
• Make sure your mattress is comfortable and supportive.
Use your bedroom only for sleep.
It is best to take work materials, computers and televisions out of the sleeping environment.
Use your bed only for sleep to strengthen the association between bed and sleep.
If you associate a particular activity or item with anxiety about sleeping, omit it from your bedtime routine.
For example, if looking at a bedroom clock makes you anxious about how much time you have before you must get up, move the clock out of sight.
Do not engage in activities that cause you anxiety and prevent you from sleeping.
Diet, Exercise, Posture and Sleep are key elements in the wellness of the Professional Cosmetologist. Participating in good health practices is the best reward we can give ourselves!
Hygiene, Grooming and Body Maintenance
The origins of personal cleanliness:
Since water is essential for life, the earliest people lived near water and knew something about its cleansing properties..
A soap-like material found in clay cylinders during the excavation of ancient Babylon is evidence that soap making was known as early as 2800 B.C.
Inscriptions on the cylinders say that fats were boiled with ashes, which is a method of making soap. Records show that ancient Egyptians bathed regularly.
They combined animal and vegetable oils with alkaline salts to form a soap-like material used for treating skin diseases, as well as for washing At about the same time, Moses gave the Israelites detailed laws governing personal cleanliness.
He also related cleanliness to health and religious purification.
Biblical accounts suggest that the Israelites knew that mixing ashes and oil produced a kind of hair gel.
The early Greeks bathed for aesthetic reasons and apparently did not use soap.
Instead, they cleaned their bodies with blocks of clay, sand, pumice and ashes, then anointed themselves with oil, and then scraped off the oil and dirt.
They also used oil with ashes. Clothes were washed without soap in streams.
Soap got its name, according to an ancient Roman legend, from Mount Sapo, where animals were sacrificed.
Rain washed a mixture of melted animal fat, or tallow, and wood ashes down into the clay soil along the Tiber River. Women found that this clay mixture made their wash cleaner with much less effort.
Commercial soap making in the American colonies began in 1608. However, for many years, soap making stayed essentially a household chore.
Eventually, professional soap makers began regularly collecting waste fats from households, in exchange for some soap.
Soap making was one of America's fastest-growing industries by 1850.
At the same time, its broad availability changed soap from a luxury item to an everyday necessity.
Household detergent production in the United States began in the early 1930s, but did not really take off until after World War II.
The first detergents were used chiefly for hand dish washing and fine fabric laundering.
The breakthrough in the development of detergents for all-purpose laundry uses came in 1946, when the first detergent was introduced in the U.S.
By 1953, detergents replaced soap-based products for laundering, dish washing and household cleaning.
Detergents are also found in many of the bars and liquids used for personal cleansing.
PerspirationWe perspire to regulate our body temperature, but changes in diet, exercise, medical conditions or even the weather can increase the amount we sweat. Sweat is a mixture of water, sodium and chloride and does not smell until it comes in to contact with bacteria.
Antiperspirants stop sweating by using zirconium and aluminum.
The astringent ingredients limit the amount of sweat produced.
Deodorants mask the smell of sweat but do not prevent sweating. They contain a fragrance or have anti-bacterial ingredients which minimize the odor-producing bacteria.
Deodorants may limit the smell, but they will still leave you with the wetness. If you don't like the idea of stopping your body from sweating, deodorants are the best answer.
Most antiperspirants also contain a fragrance, although you can get unscented ones.
Bad BreathThe main cause of halitosis, bad breath is a buildup of food particles in the mouth and the bacteria that result.
Here are some helpful tips to keep your breath in check:
• Visit your dentist at least every six months for cleanings and checkups to keep your mouth free of
plaque buildup and other problems that may lead to bad breath.
• Watch your consumption of foods such as garlic, onions, proteins, sugars, coffee and alcohol. These
foods cause bad breath.
• Brush your teeth and tongue twice a day to remove food particles and plaque, and floss between your
teeth.
• Use a mouth wash with antiseptic ingredients.
If bad breath persists, check with your dentist. Bad breath might be a warning sign of other health problems.
Foot Care
• Wash your feet daily.
• Rinse off all soap and dry thoroughly, especially between toes.
• Trim nails straight across, and not too short.
• Don't cut out or dig at corners.
• Do not trim, shave, or use over-the-counter medicines to dissolve corns or calluses
• Wear clean socks or stockings, changed daily.
• Don't wear shoes that are too short or too tight.
ShoesSome people's feet sweat more than others, and are more prone to athlete's foot.
A good idea to keep feet fresh is to switch shoes from day to day and use foot powder.
Wearing shoes that have synthetic materials are contributing factors of the production of excessive perspiration and the growth of bacteria.
Hand Care Hands are the most visible parts of you, but they also take a lot of abuse.
You use them in everyday activity, and yet, they are the ultimate accessory.
Keep your hands and nails in good condition just like you would tell your Salon Clients.
This is very important for personal service workers not only for your health but for your appearance.
In addition, washing your hair, brushing your teeth, manicuring your nails and taking your vitamins are body maintenance routines that we must do on a daily basis.
Personal service workers need to take the same good advice they would give their clients.
