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Perfect Skin from Inside Out Module 22

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Module 22: Skincare Routine

Table of Contents

Module 22: Skincare Routine ...................................................................................................................................... 1

Introduction ................................................................................................................................................. 2

22.1 Product types ...................................................................................................................................... 3

22.2 Natural and household remedies ........................................................................................................ 5

22.3 Skincare advice .................................................................................................................................. 7

22.4 Caveman regimen .............................................................................................................................. 9

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Introduction

This module is all about skincare routines. In the first section, you’ll learn about which cleansers, toners,

moisturizers and exfoliators are good to use for those with acne. In the next section, we’ll go through a range

of natural and household remedies you could try in your skincare routine. Following this, we’ll provide some

advice on comedogenic ingredients and scar treatments. The module will finish up with a section on the

caveman regimen.

22.1 Product types

22.2 Natural and household remedies

22.3 Skincare advice

22.4 Caveman regimen

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22.1 Product types

There are a huge range of product types to use on your skin as part of your skincare routine. In this section

we’ll go through some advice on cleansers, toners, moisturizers and exfoliators, with a specific focus on the

products that will be beneficial for those who suffer from acne.

22.1.1 Cleansers

Cleansers used on acne-prone skin should be nonabrasive, gentle and alcohol free. It should match your skin

tone, whether that is dry, oily or a combination.

If you want a cleanser with added ingredients to fight acne and improve the appearance of the skin, you might

want to choose a medicated cleanser. Look for ingredients such as salicylic acid (helps to clear out blocked

pores, and can reduce redness and swelling), benzoyl peroxide (kills bacteria and exfoliates the skin) and

sodium sulfacetamide (prevents the growth of bacteria).

22.1.2 Toners

Those with acne are often recommended to use toners, which are also known as clarifiers or astringents. These

are liquid solutions, usually applied to the skin with a pad or cotton ball after cleansing. Said to remove traces

of cleanser residue, excess oil, makeup and dirt, they are not washed off, and are followed by moisturizing.

Again, looking for products that contain salicylic acid, glycolic acid, or other acne fighting ingredients will

make the toner more effective in clearing up your skin. That said, a toner alone is not powerful enough to clear

up persistent acne.

One common myth about toners is that they close the pores, which is not true. Pores do not open and close

with one wipe of toner, and this is misleading advice. Toners are not a skincare necessity, and some people

prefer not to use toners at all.

Often, those who choose to use them are those who have oily skin types, as toners can reduce oily shine and

keep skin from being too greasy. However, those with sensitive skin, or those using acne treatments that dry

out the skin, may choose not to use toner. This is because many toners have a high alcohol content, and alcohol

is drying to the skin. Some people may find that using a toner worsens their breakouts. In conclusion, if you

decide to use a toner, choose one that includes an acne fighting ingredient such as salicylic acid, is low in

alcohol, and does not burn or sting the skin.

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22.1.3 Moisturizers

Moisturizers treat your skin when it is dry by helping it retain moisture. It also prevents it from drying out

again.

When selecting a moisturizer for skin that is prone to acne, there are certain ingredients that should be avoided.

These include alcohol, which can dry out the skin too much and lead to inflammation, mineral oils, petroleum

and silicones that can clog your pores.

Some experts advise those with acne to use moisturizers that are water-based, as this is a lighter moisturizer

that can provide moisture but prevent breakouts. Gel or oil-based moisturizers can clog pores and aggravate

acne. As with all the other skin products, products with salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide can help prevent

acne breakouts. Be careful, though, that these active ingredients are not in all the products you use, as using

too much can dry out and irritate the skin. Some moisturizers may contain the gentle chemical exfoliants

mentioned in section 2.1.2, and you may also want to look for humectants glycerin and hyaluronic acid. These

pulls water to the skin in order to retain its natural moisture

22.1.4 Exfoliators

Exfoliating is the process of removing dead skin cells through creating friction against the skin, or through the

use of an acid or enzyme. This could be done with a number of different products, or even with a washcloth.

There are two types of exfoliants, physical and chemical. Physical exfoliants use an abrasive implement or

ingredient to remove the dead skin cells. Examples of this are microdermabrasion, and an over the counter

face scrub. These treatments are often not advised for those suffering with acne, especially for those with

inflamed acne. This is because they are too abrasive and will inflame and irritate the skin, leading to more

breakouts.

Chemical exfoliants use an enzyme or acid to dissolve the bonds that hold dead skin cells against the surface

of the skin. These may be found in lotions, toners, gels, masks, or other products. These exfoliants are used in

chemical peels available at spas, which can be beneficial for acne. Some people prefer stronger chemical peels,

and these are discussed in more detail in module 3.

Some examples of chemical exfoliants include salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid and tartaric acid, as

well as adapalene and tazarotene. These can be beneficial for fighting against acne, though it is advised to use

them sparingly and use only one type of product at one time. If you are taking any medications for acne,

whether oral or topical, speak to your doctor to find out if your chemical exfoliant is compatible.

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22.2 Natural and household remedies

When people are trying to fight acne, they often turn to natural or household remedies. In this section we run

down some of the more popular ones that have been shown to work for many people.

If you decide to try these out, it is advised to do so one remedy at a time for a period of two weeks to one

month, to see how the remedy works for you.

22.2.1 Natural remedies

Honey mask – It is often advised that raw, organic honey should be used, rather than the processed honey

that we normally eat. Raw honey was used in ancient times as an ointment for burns, scrapes and other

skin conditions, and has natural antibacterial properties. To use a honey mask, use one teaspoon and spread

it over the face. Leave on for 15-60 minutes, rinse off with cool water and pat the face dry.

Egg white mask – Egg white tightens and tones skin, shrinking large pores. It also contains lysozyme, an

enzyme which combats bacteria that causes acne. Whisk an egg white and apply to the skin for 15 minutes.

Some people also choose to add honey and lemon juice to this mix.

Teatree oil – Some people apply tea tree oil directly to pimples, diluted with water, via a tissue, cotton

bud or cotton pad. It has natural antibacterial properties and dries out whiteheads, pimples, blackheads and

other blemishes. Others find it is too harsh for their skin, and use a few drops in an aloe vera gel or with

raw, organic honey.

Jojoba oil – If used wrongly, jojoba oil can cause acne, but when used correctly can help it. It is very rich,

so it is advised to mix with aloe vera gel 1:1, or with a non-comedogenic moisturizer. This should be

applied to the skin sparingly, once a day or less.

Witch hazel – Witch hazel is an astringent and a disinfectant, with high levels of active ingredients that

can reduce swelling, cellular damage and inflammation. It also makes pores look smaller and halts excess

oil production. Apply directly to the skin on acne lesions (on its own or combined with tea tree oil or apple

cider vinegar) with a cotton ball.

Urine therapy – Some people have found that urine therapy has helped them cure their cystic acne. Using

their morning urine, they use a cotton pad and wipe it across their skin. Some people opt to let it air dry,

while others wash their face after 15 minutes.

Lemon juice – Some forms of acne can be caused by imbalance in the pH of the skin. Drinking the juice

of two lemons twice a day, once in the morning, one hour prior to eating, and once at night, one hour after

eating, has proven effective for some people. Some choose to drink it straight, while others do so with

water.

Shea butter – Shea butter contains UV blockers, vitamin A (the main ingredient in Accutane), vitamin E

(which is low in acne sufferers, lupeol cinnamate (an acid with anti inflammatory properties) and vitamin

D. Studies have found that shea butter brightens the skin, reduces the appearance of wrinkles, and improve

moisture levels in the skin. Apply to dry skin after washing as a moisturizer.

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Clay – Bentonite clay is thought to help control the excessive production of sebum and draw out toxins

from the skin. The high silica content also means it softens skin. After washing your face, mix the clay

with water (and optionally, a few drops of tea tree oil), and apply as a mask. Leave on for five to fifteen

minutes and rinse with lukewarm water. Repeat once a week or more frequently if desired.

Salicylic acid– This acid is derived from willow tree bark, and penetrates into the pore to dissolve the

build up of dead skin. It encourages the shedding of the skin’s top layer, preventing congested pores. Use

with shea butter, as shea butter has been found to dramatically increase the healing properties of salicylic

acid.

22.2.2 Household remedies

Aspirin mask– The active ingredient in aspirin is very similar chemically to salicylic acid. It is an anti

inflammatory, which is why it can be effective in treating acne. One to seven pills are crushed and mixed

with distilled water to make a paste. Some people also choose to use organic honey to make the mask less

drying. Apply this paste to the face and leave 5 to 15 minutes. Use up to twice a week.

Calamine lotion– The active ingredient in calamine lotion is zinc oxide, which reduces inflammation and

soothes redness. It has an astringent effect with reduces acne outbreaks by absorbing excess sebum. Many

people apply calamine lotion as a mask and leave it overnight. Some reported using it every night, then

stretching it to three to five day intervals when they noticed a decrease in its effectiveness

Apple cider vinegar – Some people use apple cider vinegar as a toner, while others drink it. It is said to

be beneficial when used as a toner as it increases the acid level in the skin, contributing to the acid mantle.

Wipe a mixture of apple cider vinegar and water over your face with a cotton ball. The apple cider vinegar

should be organic, unfiltered and unpasteurized, and should contain the ‘mother’ in it. This should then be

washed off. To drink it, it is recommended to mix 2 tbsp of apple cider vinegar with 2 cups of water. Some

people also recommend adding baking soda.

Epsom salts – Epsom salts have anti-inflammatory properties that reduce swelling, pain and redness.

Epsom salts diluted in water can be used as a face wash.

Milk of magnesia – Though generally used as a laxative, it can be used as a toner to reduce oil on the

face. It contains natural zinc, which helps to fight acne. Some people choose to dab milk of magnesia

directly on pimples and leave on overnight. Others choose to make a facial mask from it, leaving it on for

10 minutes and rinsing off with lukewarm water.

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22.3 Skincare advice

22.3.1 Avoid comedogenic ingredients

Comedogenicproducts block the skin’s pores and cause acne. When choosing skincare products, check if any

of the ‘highly comedogenic’ or ‘moderately comedogenic’ are in the first seven ingredients on the list of any

products you are considering.If you find them there, using that product could worsen your acne.

If the ingredients are contained further down the list on the back of the product, it means that only a tiny

amount is included in the product, and it still may be safe for you to use. Some people prefer to source products

that are 100% free from comedogenic ingredients.

Highly comedogenic

Isopropyl isostearate

Isoproryl myristate

Laureth-4

Myristyl myristate

Oleth-3

Moderately comedogenic

Acetylated lanolin

Acetylated lanolin alcohol

Butyl stearate

Cetearyl alcohol

Cocoa butter

Coconut butter/oil

D&C red #30

Deycl oleate

Glyercyl stearate SE

Isopropyl palmitate

Isostearyl isostearate

Isostearyl neopentanoate

Laureth-23

Lauric acid

Mink oil

Myristic acid

Myristyl lactate

Shark liver oil

Soybean oil

Stearic acid: TEA

Stearyl heptanoate

Wheat germ glyceride

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22.3.2 Scar treatments

Some people will develop scars after they’ve had acne. This is not always connected to the severity of the

acne they suffered from, as people have different responses to inflammation. Some people have a ‘secondary

inflammatory response’ to trauma, and they are more likely to get scarring after their acne has cleared up.

Those with a ‘single inflammatory response’ tend not to scar.

To prevent scarring, first try to clear the acne. It is very important that you do not pick at your skin, as this is

the main cause of scarring. Leaving your skin mostly untouched is the best way to prevent getting scars when

your skin clears up.

If, when your acne is cleared, and you find you have scars, you might choose to find treatment to reduce them.

It is important to remember that many scars can not fully heal, but they can be improved. Experts recommend

that you do not take scarring too seriously, as it poses no threat to your health, and is often seen more severely

by the person who has the scarring than by others.

Some scar treatments include:

Topical creams– In gel, cream or liquid form, you apply them direct to the scar up to three times daily.

Alternatively, silicone gel sheets can be purchased and applied to the scar with pressure.

Microdermabrasion – Carried out at a spa or at the esthetician, it improves skin glow and texture. A

handheld vacuum pump creates friction against the skin with very finely ground crystals at very high

speed, which detaches some of the outermost skin cells.

Cryosurgery – In this type of treatment, cold liquid nitrogen gets applied to the scar for between 10

seconds to 120 seconds. Sometimes steroid injections are also used. The liquid nitrogen freezes the scar

and damages the tissue. After the tissue dies it is sloughed off and the area becomes flat. Side effects can

include blistering and permanent lightening of the skin.

Skin rolling/needling – A needle-studded roller, tattoo gun without ink or a 30-gauge needle is used to

puncture the skin. This induces trauma, which is then healed with collagen remodeling. It can take up to a

year for results to be seen.

Punch techniques – There are three types of punch techniques. Punch elevation cuts a portion of the scar

and levels it to the surrounding skin level. Punch excision removes the scar, then the wound is stitched

up. Punch grafting removes the scar, then replaces it with skin from another area in the body, such as

from behind the ear.

Steroid injection – Steroids can be injected into raised scars to interrupt the inflammation, thereby

reducing the scar.

Cytotoxic injection – An injection of antibiotics or cancer drugs is made into the scar to improve its

appearance.

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22.4 Caveman regimen

The caveman regimen is an unusual skincare plan that has recently gained attention in skincare online

communities in general, but particularly among those talking about acne online. Celebrities such as Alexa

Chung, Lady Gaga and Selma Hayek are said to follow this skincare regime. In this section we’ll discover the

theory behind the regimen, and what it is like to put it into practice.

22.4.1 Theory behind the caveman regimen

The caveman regimen has a few different variations. From the most extreme to the least extreme:

Not washing the face at all. Not letting water touch the face at all. Do not use any products on the face.

Washing the face with only water. Do not use any products on the face.

Washing the face with a gentle cleanser or soap, but very infrequently, such as once a week.

Some adherents of this regimen say that the more extreme the approach, the better the results.

The theory behind this skin regimen begins by talking about the acid mantle. The acid mantle is a protective

layer of skin that develops when you enter puberty. It’s made of sweat and sebum and it protects your body

from bacteria that could potentially invade your body and harm you. The pH of the acid mantle is 5.5, which

is slightly acidic.

The caveman regimen’s theory puts forward that we consistently strip the acid mantle from our skin by

washing it too often, using harsh chemicals with pH ratings that don’t suit our skin. This is one of the reasons

why the caveman regimen advises against washing the skin with bar soap, as it is alkaline, but rather washing

with a slightly acidic based product, if at all.

The theory goes on to postulate that as the acid mantle breaks down, the skin is less protected from irritation

and bacteria, and this leads to acne. Some people have even gone as far to say that sometimes we might create

acne, or at the very least severely exacerbate it, through the irritation we cause our skin with cleansing products

and excessive washing.

To counteract this, the caveman regimen advises against washing the face at all, and against using any

products, even natural products, on the skin. The theory states that letting the natural oils and sweat build up

and protect your face will eventually make your acne decrease or go away altogether. This is letting the skin

heal itself without interfering in any way.

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22.4.2 The caveman regimen in practice

The reason it is recommended that you don’t let water touch your face at all is because it can cause irritation.

In most places in the world, there are chemicals in the tap water, such as chlorine and fluoride, which can

harm the skin. In addition, water itself is quite drying. Washing with water on its own will dry the skin,

meaning that the skin will need moisturizer. As no forms of skin product are recommended during the caveman

regimen, it is better for the skin not to come into contact with water at all.

When you begin the caveman regimen, there will be a noticeable difference to the skin. For the first few days,

your face is likely to become very dry, very oily, or a mixture of both. Blemishes and zits may look worse

than they usually do, and you might suffer from breakouts. During this stage, it is especially important that

water is not used. Most acne sufferers wash their face twice a day and use a number of products to try to heal

their skin. As we stop doing so, the skin needs time to adjust. One of the first things it will do is build up a

dead skin layer, also known as a ‘dead skin mask’. This is not very noticeable, but may be dry, flaky and itchy

at first. Though this may give your skin a slightly rough appearance, it remains to protect your skin as it heals,

and it regulates sebum production.

Part of the theory behind this is that your skin renews itself every 28 days. Four weeks after beginning the

caveman regimen, your skin is likely to have improved significantly. At this point, some people choose to

wash their face with a gentle cleanser to remove the dead skin layer, but others maintain it is more effective

to let your skin shed naturally. By this point, your skin is better able to regulate itself and produce the correct

amount of sebum you need without creating acne. Inflammation in the skin will decrease. Any spots or

blemishes you have will be smaller and will go away more quickly.

Some people are reserved about trying this regime for many reasons. One is that people may find it unhygienic,

and worry that without cleaning their face more bacteria and dirt will find its way into their pores, causing

acne. The theory behind the caveman regimen refutes this, though.

Other reasons include that women might want to wear makeup, and the caveman regimen is not compatible

with skin makeup (though eye makeup is fine). Men would have to use a beard trimmer on the closest setting,

rather than shaving as usual. The hair has to be washed very carefully to make sure water does not touch the

face. Though a couple of splashes does not matter much, you will want to avoid anything more than that.

The caveman regimen is best alongside a healthy diet and exercise. Though irritation from the outside is not

always the cause of acne, it is often one of the factors keeping it going. That said, all other causes of acne

should also be explored, such as diet, lifestyle, stress levels etc.

During the caveman regimen, it is advisable to focus on your skin as little as possible. If necessary, avoid

mirrors. Not focusing on the acne helps to lower your stress levels and stay on track. Many people find it

difficult to ‘do nothing’ for their acne, especially if they’ve been used to trying many different remedies and

strategies, but great reviews have been posted on acne.org, where this method is rated 4/5, and 63% of people

have rated it 5/5.