SINGAPOREHERITAGECOOKBOOKSPERANAKAN

HERITAGE

Cooking

SINGAPOREHERITAGECOOKBOOKSPERANAKAN

HERITAGE

Cooking

PHILIPCHIAForewordbyLEEKIPLEE

ThePublisherwishestothankNUSBabaHousefortheirsupportintheproductionofthisbook.

Editor:LydiaLeongDesigner:BernardGoPhotographer:HongdePhotography

Copyright2012MarshallCavendishInternational(Asia)PrivateLimitedReprinted2013

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Chia,Philip,1960-

DEDICATIONTomy late nanny and adoptivemother, Lim Lian Neo, who doted onmeand taught me how to prepare the essential rempahs of Peranakancooking.Tomydearest lateAuntieAlice,mymak-ko,whotaughtmehowtocook.Iwillalwaysrememberthoselessons.

To mymost treasured friends, late Baba Lee Eng Liang who shared withmemanyold and forgotten recipes; Baba Tan KimGuan andAuntie RosieGwee for sharing their treasured recipes and cooking tips, especiallytohay.It is a great privilege to have had them in my life to share their skillsand impart their knowledge, which I now share with you. May this bookbea referencepointanda sourceof inspiration for you.

DEDICATIONTomy late nanny and adoptivemother, Lim Lian Neo, who doted onmeand taught me how to prepare the essential rempahs of Peranakancooking.Tomydearest lateAuntieAlice,mymak-ko,whotaughtmehowtocook.Iwillalwaysrememberthoselessons.

To mymost treasured friends, late Baba Lee Eng Liang who shared withmemanyold and forgotten recipes; Baba Tan KimGuan andAuntie RosieGwee for sharing their treasured recipes and cooking tips, especially babitohay.It is a great privilege to have had them in my life to share their skillsand impart their knowledge, which I now share with you. May this bookbea referencepointanda sourceof inspiration for you.

PhilipChia

CONTENTS

81012

24284480112126142168177178179180183

ForewordAcknowledgementsIntroduction

BasicRecipesVegetables&SaladsMeat&PoultryFish&SeafoodSoupsRice&NoodlesSnacks&DessertsGlossaryofIngredientsMenuSuggestionsWeights&MeasuresResourcesIndexPhotoCredits

FOREWORD

Perhaps nothing expresses better the soul of a community than its cooking. For thePeranakans, it is also perhaps one of the most expressive and engaging aspects ofthe living heritage. Many things may have been relegated to the past, but thecooking has been kept alive and continues to evolve, mainly because of the passionand dynamism of a younger generation of chefs and food writers, and naturally alsobecause of the interest of the community and of the general public in the flavours ofPeranakan food.

Peranakan cooking expresses and celebrates the exuberant hybridity that is centralto Peranakan identity. Ever since the Portuguese colonial era, the southern Chinesecommunities in the port towns have been exposed to the lifestyles of Malays from allover the archipelago, as well as of Europeans, Indians and Arabs, and over thecenturies, itwas impossible for these communities not to learn about, or be influencedby, the different cooking styles and ingredients. From China came sauces, bean curds,noodles, dumplings and certain types of vegetables; from the islands came the widerange of fragrant herbs, spices and roots. From India, there was the wide range ofaromatic spiceblends andmethodsof cooking, and fromEurope, therewasbaking anda whole range of cakes and desserts, quaint colonial and Eurasian fusion recipes anddashes of Worcester sauce too. Not surprisingly, the Baba Malay vocabulary ofingredients is peppered with words that have Arab, Portuguese, English, Dutch, MalayandHokkienorigins.

Perhaps the one characteristic of Peranakan cooking that may be called unique isthe refinement of the cooking process and the almost ridiculous number of stepsrequired to put together a dish. Some have speculated that this was a way for amanipulative household matriarch

FOREWORD

Perhaps nothing expresses better the soul of a community than its cooking. For thePeranakans, it is also perhaps one of the most expressive and engaging aspects ofthe living heritage. Many things may have been relegated to the past, but thecooking has been kept alive and continues to evolve, mainly because of the passionand dynamism of a younger generation of chefs and food writers, and naturally alsobecause of the interest of the community and of the general public in the flavours ofPeranakan food.

Peranakan cooking expresses and celebrates the exuberant hybridity that is centralto Peranakan identity. Ever since the Portuguese colonial era, the southern Chinesecommunities in the port towns have been exposed to the lifestyles of Malays from allover the archipelago, as well as of Europeans, Indians and Arabs, and over thecenturies, itwas impossible for these communities not to learn about, or be influencedby, the different cooking styles and ingredients. From China came sauces, bean curds,noodles, dumplings and certain types of vegetables; from the islands came the widerange of fragrant herbs, spices and roots. From India, there was the wide range ofaromatic spiceblends andmethodsof cooking, and fromEurope, therewasbaking anda whole range of cakes and desserts, quaint colonial and Eurasian fusion recipes anddashes of Worcester sauce too. Not surprisingly, the Baba Malay vocabulary ofingredients is peppered with words that have Arab, Portuguese, English, Dutch, MalayandHokkienorigins.

Perhaps the one characteristic of Peranakan cooking that may be called unique isthe refinement of the cooking process and the almost ridiculous number of stepsrequired to put together a dish. Some have speculated that this was a way for amanipulative household matriarch

to control her daughters and daughters-in-law. In this day and age, shortcuts havebeen taken by many modern chefs who claim there is little effect on the finalproduct, although conservative cooks would disagree.

WhenIwasyoung,themenusfordifferentoccasionswereveryspecific.Thereweresomanykindsofcelebrations, frombirthdays to funerals,which requireddifferent foodsto be served in order to avoid any ill omens or inappropriate etiquette. For example, inthepast, themixedvegetabledishknownaschapchyewasusedasanofferingduringceremonies to commemorate the death anniversaries of ancestors. Therefore,traditionally it was never served at birthdays. Nowadays, such customs are no longerobserved. However, to be honest, I never paid much attention to these things when Iwas young. Food for me was solely focused on my favourite meal: a fried egg onsteaminghotricewithgenerouslashingsofdarksoysauceandslicedfreshgreenchilli.

The author Philip Chia is a nephew of mine who grew up in a typical Peranakanhousehold where cooking was an important part of daily life. During my term aspresident of the Peranakan Association, he voluntarily contributed his expertise andadvice towards many successful events and has been active in promoting Peranakancooking to the public. I am heartened that he is both armed with the knowledge oftraditional methods and yet engaged with contemporary tastes and demands, whichallow him to bridge the past with the present. This book, comprising so many familyrecipes, is a wonderful addition to the large corpus of books on this unique and livingaspect of Peranakan heritage.

to control her daughters and daughters-in-law. In this day and age, shortcuts havebeen taken by many modern chefs who claim there is little effect on the finalproduct, although conservative cooks would disagree.

WhenIwasyoung,themenusfordifferentoccasionswereveryspecific.Thereweresomanykindsofcelebrations, frombirthdays to funerals,which requireddifferent foodsto be served in order to avoid any ill omens or inappropriate etiquette. For example, inthepast, themixedvegetabledishknownaschapchyewasusedasanofferingduringceremonies to commemorate the death anniversaries of ancestors. Therefore,traditionally it was never served at birthdays. Nowadays, such customs are no longerobserved. However, to be honest, I never paid much attention to these things when Iwas young. Food for me was solely focused on my favourite meal: a fried egg onsteaminghotricewithgenerouslashingsofdarksoysauceandslicedfreshgreenchilli.

The author Philip Chia is a nephew of mine who grew up in a typical Peranakanhousehold where cooking was an important part of daily life. During my term aspresident of the Peranakan Association, he voluntarily contributed his expertise andadvice towards many successful events and has been active in promoting Peranakancooking to the public. I am heartened that he is both armed with the knowledge oftraditional methods and yet engaged with contemporary tastes and demands, whichallow him to bridge the past with the present. This book, comprising so many familyrecipes, is a wonderful addition to the large corpus of books on this unique and livingaspect of Peranakan heritage.

LeeKipLee

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Firstly, I would like to thank Lydia Leong, Bernard Go and Liu Hongde fortheir wonderfulsupport in the production of this Peranakan cookbook. Thank you forhelpingme preservethe amazing recipes of the Peranakan heritage.A big thank you also to Uncle Lee Kip Lee, past president of thePeranakan Association,Singapore, who gave me a deeper understanding of the Peranakanculture; my cousin,Peter Lee, vice-president of the Peranakan Association, Singapore, whoprovidedmewithinvaluable advice and guidance as I worked on this book; and TachiLaureen Tam forhelping out during the photo shoot at the NUS Baba House.

And of course, to a true friend, Adrian Koh, for contributing the insightfulintroductionto this bookthank you.I would also like to express my appreciation to Braun Singapore forsponsoring thehandmixer I used to blend all the rempahs in this book.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Firstly, I would like to thank Lydia Leong, Bernard Go and Liu Hongde fortheir wonderfulsupport in the production of this Peranakan cookbook. Thank you forhelpingme preservethe amazing recipes of the Peranakan heritage.A big thank you also to Uncle Lee Kip Lee, past president of thePeranakan Association,Singapore, who gave me a deeper understanding of the Peranakanculture; my cousin,Peter Lee, vice-president of the Peranakan Association, Singapore, whoprovidedmewithinvaluable advice and guidance as I worked on this book; and TachiLaureen Tam forhelping out during the photo shoot at the NUS Baba House.

And of course, to a true friend, Adrian Koh, for contributing the insightfulintroductionto this bookthank you.I would also like to express my appreciation to Braun Singapore forsponsoring thehandmixer I used to blend all the rempahs in this book. Philip

Chia

INTRODUCTION

The Peranakans are a Southeast Asian community that established itself in the colonialsettlements of the 16th and 17th centuries. Purists are divided as towhether the termPeranakan denotes a race or a culture, but it refers generally to the descendants ofthe early Chinese immigrants who settled in the Malay archipelago, invariably takingnativewomen aswives or concubines (as Chinesewomenwere restricted from leavingthe mainland until the late 19th century) and embracing local customs, all the whileretainingmuchof their ancestral culture.

Peranakans themselves later on migrated within Malaysia, Indonesia andSingapore, which resulted in a high degree of cultural similarity of the people ofthose countries, as well as other farther-flung outposts of the Asia-Pacific region. Asthe main communities lived and engaged in trade primarily within the StraitsSettlements (a British colonial construct of Singapore, Malacca, and Penang constitutedin 1826), the Peranakans also came to be known as the Straits Chinese.

INTRODUCTION

The Peranakans are a Southeast Asian community that established itself in the colonialsettlements of the 16th and 17th centuries. Purists are divided as towhether the termPeranakan denotes a race or a culture, but it refers generally to the descendants ofthe early Chinese immigrants who settled in the Malay archipelago, invariably takingnativewomen aswives or concubines (as Chinesewomenwere restricted from leavingthe mainland until the late 19th century) and embracing local customs, all the whileretainingmuchof their ancestral culture.

Peranakans themselves later on migrated within Malaysia, Indonesia andSingapore, which resulted in a high degree of cultural similarity of the people ofthose countries, as well as other farther-flung outposts of the Asia-Pacific region. Asthe main communities lived and engaged in trade primarily within the StraitsSettlements (a British colonial construct of Singapore, Malacca, and Penang constitutedin 1826), the Peranakans also came to be known as the Straits Chinese.

Agroupphotographofthe first committeeoftheStraits ChineseBritishAssociation (SCBA)taken in1880. TheSCBAwas the forerunnerto thePeranakanAssociation in Singapore.History

The rich history of the Peranakans beganwhen the countries of SoutheastAsia becamea focus for trade and commerce to the merchants of mainland China, many of whomchose to put down roots in the region. Their offspring, products of inter-racial unions,and theirdescendantswouldbeknownasPeranakans.

Although many newcomers were socially accepted and assimilated into thesultanates of the Malay and Indonesian archipelagos, those who settled in the colonialsettlements did not fully integrate with the local communities at all levels. Firstly, their

Agroupphotographofthe first committeeoftheStraits ChineseBritishAssociation (SCBA)taken in1880. TheSCBAwas the forerunnerto thePeranakanAssociation in Singapore.History

The rich history of the Peranakans beganwhen the countries of SoutheastAsia becamea focus for trade and commerce to the merchants of mainland China, many of whomchose to put down roots in the region. Their offspring, products of inter-racial unions,and theirdescendantswouldbeknownasPeranakans.

Although many newcomers were socially accepted and assimilated into thesultanates of the Malay and Indonesian archipelagos, those who settled in the colonialsettlements did not fully integrate with the local communities at all levels. Firstly, their

centuries, the Peranakans were a formidable economic force within the region as acollective, many becoming entrepreneurs in their own right, with interests in thelucrative field of commercial agriculturepepper, gambier, nutmeg, sago, pineapple,sugarand tapioca.The early Peranakans expressed themselves culturally as Chinese; this was tochange with the increasing influence of the British and Dutch throughout the 19thcentury, when they became actively courted by western trading firms as partners inbusiness and commercial ventures. Proud of their status in the eyes of the Europeancolonialists, the Peranakans began a wholesale adoption of the trappings of westernculture. By the late 19th century, European tastes and lifestyles, from seaside villas,Victorianfurnitureandwestern-styledinnerservice,hadbecomeanaspirationalnormforthe community, and by the beginning of the 20th century, English had become thepreferred language of education, just as conversion to Christianity, the religion of thecolonialists, had become a norm. Peranakans readily embraced the social practices oftheir western masters as a means of economic advancement, and for its perceivedprestige.At theheightof colonialism, important administrativeand civil servicepositionsintheregionwereusuallyfilledbytheStraitsChinese.

Politicalandsocial influencesfrommainlandChinadeclinedoverthisperiod,creatinga cultural gap between the Peranakans and the country of their ancestors that becamean unbridgeable chasm with the downfall of the Qing dynasty in 1911 and the socialrevolutionthatfollowed.

centuries, the Peranakans were a formidable economic force within the region as acollective, many becoming entrepreneurs in their own right, with interests in thelucrative field of commercial agriculturepepper, gambier, nutmeg, sago, pineapple,sugarand tapioca.The early Peranakans expressed themselves culturally as Chinese; this was tochange with the increasing influence of the British and Dutch throughout the 19thcentury, when they became actively courted by western trading firms as partners inbusiness and commercial ventures. Proud of their status in the eyes of the Europeancolonialists, the Peranakans began a wholesale adoption of the trappings of westernculture. By the late 19th century, European tastes and lifestyles, from seaside villas,Victorianfurnitureandwestern-styledinnerservice,hadbecomeanaspirationalnormforthe community, and by the beginning of the 20th century, English had become thepreferred language of education, just as conversion to Christianity, the religion of thecolonialists, had become a norm. Peranakans readily embraced the social practices oftheir western masters as a means of economic advancement, and for its perceivedprestige.At theheightof colonialism, important administrativeand civil servicepositionsintheregionwereusuallyfilledbytheStraitsChinese.

Politicalandsocial influencesfrommainlandChinadeclinedoverthisperiod,creatinga cultural gap between the Peranakans and the country of their ancestors that becamean unbridgeable chasm with the downfall of the Qing dynasty in 1911 and the socialrevolutionthatfollowed.

TheChia familyoutside their familyhomeat25SeaAvenue, circa1940.

TraditionsUp to the middle of the 19th century, the Peranakans generally identified with theirChinese roots, observing the life-cycle ceremonies and seasonal festivals of theChinese lunar calendar. Well-established annual celebrations from the Taoist traditionincluded The Emperor of Heavens Birthday (the ninth day of the Chinese New Year);the Hungry Ghost festival and the Kitchen God ceremony. Inevitably, certain festivaltraditions and practices were modified in accordance with local circumstances.

TheChia familyoutside their familyhomeat25SeaAvenue, circa1940.

TraditionsUp to the middle of the 19th century, the Peranakans generally identified with theirChinese roots, observing the life-cycle ceremonies and seasonal festivals of theChinese lunar calendar. Well-established annual celebrations from the Taoist traditionincluded The Emperor of Heavens Birthday (the ninth day of the Chinese New Year);the Hungry Ghost festival and the Kitchen God ceremony. Inevitably, certain festivaltraditions and practices were modified in accordance with local circumstances.

The religiouspracticesof thosePeranakanswhodidnot convert toChristianitywereamixof Taoist andBuddhist rituals. The Taoist elements includedancestralworshipandhonouring a range of deities from the Emperor of Heaven to the Monkey God. ThePeranakans also worshipped Guan Yin Bodhisattva, commonly referred to as theGoddess of Mercy, who was from the Buddhist pantheon. The Peranakan doctrine ofbalasan,basedonthepremiseof retribution,was theequivalentofkarma inBuddhism;andtheconceptofsalvationthroughfaith,ratherthanthroughmoralworthinessorgooddeeds,wasadaptedfromaMahayanasutra.

In everyday matters, the Peranakans continued to observe the traditions of theirancestorswhile at the same time adopting the native customs of their new homeland.This integration generated new conventions and forms of etiquette and pageantrydrawn from both sources. Over the centuries, a body of practices was established thatremained unique to the community, largely driven by a sense of history, propriety andsuperstition.

The religiouspracticesof thosePeranakanswhodidnot convert toChristianitywereamixof Taoist andBuddhist rituals. The Taoist elements includedancestralworshipandhonouring a range of deities from the Emperor of Heaven to the Monkey God. ThePeranakans also worshipped Guan Yin Bodhisattva, commonly referred to as theGoddess of Mercy, who was from the Buddhist pantheon. The Peranakan doctrine ofbalasan,basedonthepremiseof retribution,was theequivalentofkarma inBuddhism;andtheconceptofsalvationthroughfaith,ratherthanthroughmoralworthinessorgooddeeds,wasadaptedfromaMahayanasutra.

In everyday matters, the Peranakans continued to observe the traditions of theirancestorswhile at the same time adopting the native customs of their new homeland.This integration generated new conventions and forms of etiquette and pageantrydrawn from both sources. Over the centuries, a body of practices was established thatremained unique to the community, largely driven by a sense of history, propriety andsuperstition.

As lateas the20thcentury, thePeranakanswereknowntogiveawayorexchangetheir children for astrological reasons; a small number even sold their children. ThePeranakans believed in spirits, geomancy, horoscopes and traditional medicine. TheyobservedelaborateritesandritualswithacolourandcomplexitybestexemplifiedbythePeranakan wedding, a ceremony based on a Chinese traditional form and modified bylocal influences. Apart from the numerous pre-nuptial customs, thewedding ritual itselfstretched over a period of 12 days, during which a formidable number of Malay andChineseconventionswereobserved.Marriageswere typicallyarrangedbymatchmakers,initiated by an elaborate gift to the brides family. Thewedding feastwas an elaborateaffaircommonly referredtoas tokpanjang(long table). Theculminationof theweddingceremonywas the dondang sayang, an exchange of musical poems sung by weddingguests.

Theconventionofmarryingwithin thecommunityhelped topreserve the ritual rightuptothemiddleof the20thcentury,when, likemanyotherPeranakanpractices, itwaslargelyabandonedwiththeonsetofinternationalism.

ArtsandCultureWhile the Peranakans retained most of their ethnic traditions, they almost entirelyassimilated the language of the local natives. The language of the Peranakans,sometimes referred to as Baba Malay, was a fusion of the indigenous Malaylanguage and Hokkien, the dialect of the Fujian province in China from where most ofthe immigrants hailed. This patois incorporated both languages within completephrases and sentences, although Malay was dominant. The word Peranakan wasderived from Malay and Indonesian and meant local-born. The menfolk were referredto as Babas, and the women Nyonyas, local terms of respect. The use of Chinesewords tended to relate to household affairs and anything peculiar to the Chineseculture and tradition usually retained its nomenclature.

Baba Malay is one of the most obvious examples of the cross-cultural integrationof theMalays and Chinese of the Straits Settlements. The patois flourished and became

As lateas the20thcentury, thePeranakanswereknowntogiveawayorexchangetheir children for astrological reasons; a small number even sold their children. ThePeranakans believed in spirits, geomancy, horoscopes and traditional medicine. TheyobservedelaborateritesandritualswithacolourandcomplexitybestexemplifiedbythePeranakan wedding, a ceremony based on a Chinese traditional form and modified bylocal influences. Apart from the numerous pre-nuptial customs, thewedding ritual itselfstretched over a period of 12 days, during which a formidable number of Malay andChineseconventionswereobserved.Marriageswere typicallyarrangedbymatchmakers,initiated by an elaborate gift to the brides family. Thewedding feastwas an elaborateaffaircommonly referredtoas tokpanjang(long table). Theculminationof theweddingceremonywas the dondang sayang, an exchange of musical poems sung by weddingguests.

Theconventionofmarryingwithin thecommunityhelped topreserve the ritual rightuptothemiddleof the20thcentury,when, likemanyotherPeranakanpractices, itwaslargelyabandonedwiththeonsetofinternationalism.

ArtsandCultureWhile the Peranakans retained most of their ethnic traditions, they almost entirelyassimilated the language of the local natives. The language of the Peranakans,sometimes referred to as Baba Malay, was a fusion of the indigenous Malaylanguage and Hokkien, the dialect of the Fujian province in China from where most ofthe immigrants hailed. This patois incorporated both languages within completephrases and sentences, although Malay was dominant. The word Peranakan wasderived from Malay and Indonesian and meant local-born. The menfolk were referredto as Babas, and the women Nyonyas, local terms of respect. The use of Chinesewords tended to relate to household affairs and anything peculiar to the Chineseculture and tradition usually retained its nomenclature.

Baba Malay is one of the most obvious examples of the cross-cultural integrationof theMalays and Chinese of the Straits Settlements. The patois flourished and became

ArowofPeranakanhousesalongJooChiatPlace,1988.

The architectural style of the Peranakan house is formally described as StraitsEclectic, owing to the multiple influences at work. Chinese immigrant landownersadapted their homeland building styles to the tropical climate of their new country,invariably incorporating local building design conventions. Chinese houses with elevatedstructures and shaded porches sprouted all over the region; in time, the architecturalinfluences of the colonialists were also added to the mix: the Portuguese introducedthe arch, the Dutch their sense of size and space and the British the grandeur ofAnglo-Indian buildings with their particular ornamental features. Examples of

ArowofPeranakanhousesalongJooChiatPlace,1988.

The architectural style of the Peranakan house is formally described as StraitsEclectic, owing to the multiple influences at work. Chinese immigrant landownersadapted their homeland building styles to the tropical climate of their new country,invariably incorporating local building design conventions. Chinese houses with elevatedstructures and shaded porches sprouted all over the region; in time, the architecturalinfluences of the colonialists were also added to the mix: the Portuguese introducedthe arch, the Dutch their sense of size and space and the British the grandeur ofAnglo-Indian buildings with their particular ornamental features. Examples of

PhilipChiasauntiesintypicalNyonyaclothing,circa1942.By the 20th century, affluent Peranakan families were choosing to send their

children to England rather than China for further education. Generally it was the maleoffspring who were dispatched, as education was not considered necessary forfemales, for whom a career outside the home was actively discouraged even asrecently as the 1960s. Peranakan women did not embrace western culture to thesame extent as their menfolk until well into the 20th century. In general, they tendedto remain locally-influenced, some eatingwith their hands, native-style, long after theirmenfolkhadadoptedwestern cutlery.

The Nyonyas style of dressing was adapted from native fashion, with Portuguese,Javanese andMalay influences. Ladies wore a two-piece ensemble comprising a wrap-

PhilipChiasauntiesintypicalNyonyaclothing,circa1942.By the 20th century, affluent Peranakan families were choosing to send their

children to England rather than China for further education. Generally it was the maleoffspring who were dispatched, as education was not considered necessary forfemales, for whom a career outside the home was actively discouraged even asrecently as the 1960s. Peranakan women did not embrace western culture to thesame extent as their menfolk until well into the 20th century. In general, they tendedto remain locally-influenced, some eatingwith their hands, native-style, long after theirmenfolkhadadoptedwestern cutlery.

The Nyonyas style of dressing was adapted from native fashion, with Portuguese,Javanese andMalay influences. Ladies wore a two-piece ensemble comprising a wrap-

PhilipChiawithBibikBurokatKatongAntiqueHouse,pinchingthetailsoffbeansprouts,1982.

CuisineLong before fusion cuisine captured the imagination of the world, the Peranakanswere blending Chinese ingredients and cooking techniques with the spices and nativeingredients used by the indigenous Malays, over time establishing a repertoire ofrecipes avidly followed to this day.Peranakan food is typically aromatic and spicy and features ingredients thatinclude coconut milk, galangal, turmeric, candlenuts, laksa leaves, pandan leaves,tamarind pulp, lemongrass, chillies, shallots, basil and coriander. Asam gelugor,belimbing and mangoes were often added to deliver a tangy taste. Perhaps the foodcomponent most associated with the Peranakans is the buah keluak, the nut of the

PhilipChiawithBibikBurokatKatongAntiqueHouse,pinchingthetailsoffbeansprouts,1982.

CuisineLong before fusion cuisine captured the imagination of the world, the Peranakanswere blending Chinese ingredients and cooking techniques with the spices and nativeingredients used by the indigenous Malays, over time establishing a repertoire ofrecipes avidly followed to this day.Peranakan food is typically aromatic and spicy and features ingredients thatinclude coconut milk, galangal, turmeric, candlenuts, laksa leaves, pandan leaves,tamarind pulp, lemongrass, chillies, shallots, basil and coriander. Asam gelugor,belimbing and mangoes were often added to deliver a tangy taste. Perhaps the foodcomponent most associated with the Peranakans is the buah keluak, the nut of the

Food also had religious and symbolic significance and many dishes were originallyserved only on special occasions. Rice was deliberately coloured yellow in the beliefthat this enhanced its life-giving qualities and rice dumplings were sometimes colouredred toencouragegood fortune.Kueh lapiswas a confectionmadeupofmultiple layersthat symbolised the ladderofprosperity.

Without the modern appliances of today, Peranakan cooking in past centuriesrequired time-consuming preparation and even here, there were conventions to beobserved. Foodhad tobe inbite-sizemorselswhen served, as therewereno knives inthe Peranakan place settings. Cakes, fruit and vegetables had to be sliced diagonally.Peranakan women, typically cloistered and servile to their menfolk, spent much effortandtimeperfectingtheirdishesandevolvingtheirownversionsofstandardrecipesthatwerethenhandeddowntothenextgeneration.RenaissanceThePeranakanwayof lifebegantodeclinebythesecondhalfof the20thcentury,withtheonsetofglobalisationandmodern lifestyleaspirations.Bythis time,BabaMalayhadbeen replaced by English as the main spoken language in Peranakan homes, its useusually limited to exchanges with and between members of the older generation.Peranakan fashion, handicraft and architecture had become largely associated withconservationandheritage,withlittlerelevancetoeverydaylife.

Theendof the20th centuryand thebeginningof the21st,however, sawa revivalin interest, fuelled by media successes like the Little Nyonya television series, whichintroducedthePeranakanculturetoacompletelynewgeneration.Effortstopreservetheculture for posterity through conservation and education programmes are largelyattributable to organisations such as the Peranakan Association, Singapore and theGunungSayangAssociationaswell asgovernment-sponsored initiatives, typically though

Food also had religious and symbolic significance and many dishes were originallyserved only on special occasions. Rice was deliberately coloured yellow in the beliefthat this enhanced its life-giving qualities and rice dumplings were sometimes colouredred toencouragegood fortune.Kueh lapiswas a confectionmadeupofmultiple layersthat symbolised the ladderofprosperity.

Without the modern appliances of today, Peranakan cooking in past centuriesrequired time-consuming preparation and even here, there were conventions to beobserved. Foodhad tobe inbite-sizemorselswhen served, as therewereno knives inthe Peranakan place settings. Cakes, fruit and vegetables had to be sliced diagonally.Peranakan women, typically cloistered and servile to their menfolk, spent much effortandtimeperfectingtheirdishesandevolvingtheirownversionsofstandardrecipesthatwerethenhandeddowntothenextgeneration.RenaissanceThePeranakanwayof lifebegantodeclinebythesecondhalfof the20thcentury,withtheonsetofglobalisationandmodern lifestyleaspirations.Bythis time,BabaMalayhadbeen replaced by English as the main spoken language in Peranakan homes, its useusually limited to exchanges with and between members of the older generation.Peranakan fashion, handicraft and architecture had become largely associated withconservationandheritage,withlittlerelevancetoeverydaylife.

Theendof the20th centuryand thebeginningof the21st,however, sawa revivalin interest, fuelled by media successes like the Little Nyonya television series, whichintroducedthePeranakanculturetoacompletelynewgeneration.Effortstopreservetheculture for posterity through conservation and education programmes are largelyattributable to organisations such as the Peranakan Association, Singapore and theGunungSayangAssociationaswell asgovernment-sponsored initiatives, typically though

Clockwisefromtop:FrontageofBabaHouse;theelaboratewoodcarvingsontheswingingdoors; theplaqueoutsideBabaHouse.

Baba House is a collaboration between private philanthropists andthe National University of Singapore (NUS). It began as a restorationproject of a pre-war Peranakan residence and is today an importantheritage house showcasing the typical Peranakan domestic interior circa1928. The house is managed by an arm of the NUS on a non-profitbasis. Indeed, there are clear indications that interest in the culture isgrowing amongst the younger generation eager to learn about their

Clockwisefromtop:FrontageofBabaHouse;theelaboratewoodcarvingsontheswingingdoors; theplaqueoutsideBabaHouse.

Baba House is a collaboration between private philanthropists andthe National University of Singapore (NUS). It began as a restorationproject of a pre-war Peranakan residence and is today an importantheritage house showcasing the typical Peranakan domestic interior circa1928. The house is managed by an arm of the NUS on a non-profitbasis. Indeed, there are clear indications that interest in the culture isgrowing amongst the younger generation eager to learn about their

Clockwise from top:WithinBabaHousetheancestralhall, a viewof thekitchen from theancestralhall andthecolouredglasspanesinthehallwayleadingtothebedrooms.

Clockwise from top:WithinBabaHousetheancestralhall, a viewof thekitchen from theancestralhall andthecolouredglasspanesinthehallwayleadingtothebedrooms.

BASICRECIPES

RoastedPrawn(Shrimp)Paste(Belacan)SambalBelacanDriedChilliPaste

ChiliChuka

RoastedPrawn(Shrimp)Paste(Belacan)SambalBelacanDriedChilliPaste

ChiliChuka

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ROASTEDPRAWN(SHRIMP)PASTE

(BELACAN)

Dried prawn (shrimp) paste (belacan)as needed, broken up

1.Heatadrywokandaddprawnpaste.Stir-fryoverlowtomediumheattoavoidburningprawnpaste.Usethebackofthewokladletobreakprawnpasteupfurtherandcookuntildryandcrisp.

2.Whenpasteisdryandnolongerstickstowok,removefromheatandallowtocool.3.Grindcooledprawnpasteintoapowder.Storeinanairtightcontainerintherefrigerator.

NOTEIfkeptcoolanddry,roastedprawnpastewillkeepindefinitely.

SAMBALBELACAN

Red chillies68Roasted prawn (shrimp) paste (belacan)

(recipe above)40 g (1 oz)Kaffir lime leaf1, torn or

1 tsp calamansi lime zestCalamansi limesto serve

1.Usingamortarandpestle,poundchilliesalittleatatime,addingroastedprawnpasteandkaffirlimeleaforcalamansilimezestuntilchilliseedsarecrushed.2.Storeinanairtightcontainerintherefrigerator.Serveasacondiment

ROASTEDPRAWN(SHRIMP)PASTE

(BELACAN)

Dried prawn (shrimp) paste (belacan)as needed, broken up

1.Heatadrywokandaddprawnpaste.Stir-fryoverlowtomediumheattoavoidburningprawnpaste.Usethebackofthewokladletobreakprawnpasteupfurtherandcookuntildryandcrisp.

2.Whenpasteisdryandnolongerstickstowok,removefromheatandallowtocool.3.Grindcooledprawnpasteintoapowder.Storeinanairtightcontainerintherefrigerator.

NOTEIfkeptcoolanddry,roastedprawnpastewillkeepindefinitely.

SAMBALBELACAN

Red chillies68Roasted prawn (shrimp) paste (belacan)

(recipe above)40 g (1 oz)Kaffir lime leaf1, torn or

1 tsp calamansi lime zestCalamansi limesto serve

1.Usingamortarandpestle,poundchilliesalittleatatime,addingroastedprawnpasteandkaffirlimeleaforcalamansilimezestuntilchilliseedsarecrushed.2.Storeinanairtightcontainerintherefrigerator.Serveasacondiment

DRIEDCHILLIPASTE

Dried chilliesas needed

1.Soakdriedchilliesinhotwaterfor3045minutes.2.Drainwellandgrindfinelyintoapaste.3.Storein23Tbspportionsinanairtightplasticcontainerinthefreezer.

Thawanduseasneeded.

NOTEIfyoudonotwishtomakeyourown,driedchillipasteisavailablefromwetmarketstallsandsupermarkets.Whenusingstore-boughtdriedchillipaste,chooseonethatdoesnotcontainvinegarasitwillaffectthecolourandtasteoftherempahitisusedin.Stallsthatsellfreshlypreparedcurrypasteswillusuallystockdriedchillipaste.Askforpuredriedchillipaste.

CHILICHUKA

Red chillies1012White vinegar150ml (5 fl oz)Sugar 75 g (2 oz)Sea salt tsp

1.Slitchilliesdownthelengthandremoveseeds.Usingamortarandpestleorblender,grindchilliesintoapaste.2.Placegroundchilliesinasaucepanwithvinegar,sugarandsaltandbringtotheboil.Lowerheatandsimmerforabout5minutes.3.Adjusttotastewithmorevinegarand/orsugar.Removefromheatandleavetocool.4.Storeinanairtightcontainerintherefrigerator.Serveasacondimentwithasqueeze

DRIEDCHILLIPASTE

Dried chilliesas needed

1.Soakdriedchilliesinhotwaterfor3045minutes.2.Drainwellandgrindfinelyintoapaste.3.Storein23Tbspportionsinanairtightplasticcontainerinthefreezer.

Thawanduseasneeded.

NOTEIfyoudonotwishtomakeyourown,driedchillipasteisavailablefromwetmarketstallsandsupermarkets.Whenusingstore-boughtdriedchillipaste,chooseonethatdoesnotcontainvinegarasitwillaffectthecolourandtasteoftherempahitisusedin.Stallsthatsellfreshlypreparedcurrypasteswillusuallystockdriedchillipaste.Askforpuredriedchillipaste.

CHILICHUKA

Red chillies1012White vinegar150ml (5 fl oz)Sugar 75 g (2 oz)Sea salt tsp

1.Slitchilliesdownthelengthandremoveseeds.Usingamortarandpestleorblender,grindchilliesintoapaste.2.Placegroundchilliesinasaucepanwithvinegar,sugarandsaltandbringtotheboil.Lowerheatandsimmerforabout5minutes.3.Adjusttotastewithmorevinegarand/orsugar.Removefromheatandleavetocool.4.Storeinanairtightcontainerintherefrigerator.Serveasacondimentwithasqueeze

VEGETABLES&SALADS

AcharPrawn&Egg

SaladKerabuTimun

NanasChapChye

SambalKangkong

Sambal

AcharPrawn&Egg

SaladKerabuTimun

NanasChapChye

SambalKangkong

Sambal

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ACHARMakes about 1.6 kg (3 lb 9 oz)Itwasmymak-ko(eldestauntie),AuntieAlice,who taughtmehow tomakeThe process involves cutting all the vegetables into strips roughly similar in size toensuretheendproduct isvisuallypleasing, thenrubbingwithsaltorblanchingthembefore sun-drying so they are crunchy. This also ensures that the acharlongershelflife.Cucumbers 500 g (1 lb 1 oz), sliced

lengthways in half, soft centres removedand cut diagonally into strips

Sea salt2 TbspCabbage 300 g (11 oz), cut into thick stripsCarrots 200 g (7 oz), peeled and cut into stripsShallots 100 g (3 oz), peeledCooking oil2 TbspWhite vinegar1 TbspApple cider vinegar2 TbspSugar 6 TbspPeanuts 100 g (3 oz), roasted, skinned

and roughly groundWhite sesame seeds34 Tbsp, roasted

RempahCandlenuts 5Galangal 23 slicesLemon grass1 stalk, ends

trimmed,cut into short lengthsTurmeric 2-cm (1-in) knob,

peeledGarlic 4 cloves, peeledShallots 200 g (7 oz),peeledDried chilli paste (page 27)1 Tbsp

Roasted prawn (shrimp)paste (belacan)(page 26) 23 tsp

1.Rubcucumberswith1Tbspsaltandsetasidefor1hour.Drainoffanywater,thenwrapcucumberswithmuslinclothandplaceaheavyobjectsuchasamortaroncucumberstoremoveanyexcessliquid.Laycucumberstripsoutonatrayandleavetosun-dryfor23hours.

2.Boilapotofwaterandblanchcabbage,carrotsandshallotsfor1minute.Drainandsun-dryfor12hours.3.Usingamortarandpestleorblender,grindingredientsforrempahintoapaste.4.Heatoilinawokandfryrempahuntilfragrant.Transfertoalargeglassmixingbowlandallowtocool.5.Whenrempahiscool,addvinegars,sugarand1Tbspsalt.Mixwell

ACHARMakes about 1.6 kg (3 lb 9 oz)Itwasmymak-ko(eldestauntie),AuntieAlice,who taughtmehow tomake achar.The process involves cutting all the vegetables into strips roughly similar in size toensuretheendproduct isvisuallypleasing, thenrubbingwithsaltorblanchingthembefore sun-drying so they are crunchy. This also ensures that the acharwill have alongershelflife.Cucumbers 500 g (1 lb 1 oz), sliced

lengthways in half, soft centres removedand cut diagonally into strips

Sea salt2 TbspCabbage 300 g (11 oz), cut into thick stripsCarrots 200 g (7 oz), peeled and cut into stripsShallots 100 g (3 oz), peeledCooking oil2 TbspWhite vinegar1 TbspApple cider vinegar2 TbspSugar 6 TbspPeanuts 100 g (3 oz), roasted, skinned

and roughly groundWhite sesame seeds34 Tbsp, roasted

RempahCandlenuts 5Galangal 23 slicesLemon grass1 stalk, ends

trimmed,cut into short lengthsTurmeric 2-cm (1-in) knob,

peeledGarlic 4 cloves, peeledShallots 200 g (7 oz),peeledDried chilli paste (page 27)1 Tbsp

Roasted prawn (shrimp)paste (belacan)(page 26) 23 tsp

1.Rubcucumberswith1Tbspsaltandsetasidefor1hour.Drainoffanywater,thenwrapcucumberswithmuslinclothandplaceaheavyobjectsuchasamortaroncucumberstoremoveanyexcessliquid.Laycucumberstripsoutonatrayandleavetosun-dryfor23hours.

2.Boilapotofwaterandblanchcabbage,carrotsandshallotsfor1minute.Drainandsun-dryfor12hours.3.Usingamortarandpestleorblender,grindingredientsforrempahintoapaste.4.Heatoilinawokandfryrempahuntilfragrant.Transfertoalargeglassmixingbowlandallowtocool.5.Whenrempahiscool,addvinegars,sugarand1Tbspsalt.Mixwell

PRAWN&EggSaladServes 46This appetiser is usually served during birthdays and special occasions. My grandauntie used to make this to celebrate our birthdays and it was a real treat! It is asimpledishbut it tasteswonderful andmakesexcellent finger food forparties.Whatmakesthisappetiseruniqueisthepeanutcandyaddedtothedressingwhichgivesitalighttasteofpeanutsandasweetflavour.Red chillies5, seeded, if desired,

for a less spicy dishSugar 1 TbspCalamansi limes45, juice extractedPeanut candy100 g (3 oz), crumbledPrawns (shrimps)100 g (3 oz), smallCucumber 1, peeled and sliced into roundsLettuce a few leavesHard-boiled eggs2, peeled and slicedinto rounds

1.Usingamortarandpestleorblender,grindchilliesintoapaste.Transfertoabowl.2.Addsugar,calamansijuiceandpeanutcandytobowlandmixwell.Setaside.3.Boilapotofwaterandaddprawns.Whenprawnsturnpinkandarecooked,drainandpeel.4.Toassemble,placeasliceofcucumberonalettuceleafandtopwithasliceofegg.Placeaspoonfulofchillipasteontop,thentopwithaprawn.5.Garnishasdesiredandserve.

NOTEIfpeanutcandyisnotavailable,usefinelychoppedunsaltedroastedpeanutsasasubstituteandincreasethequantityofsugaraddedto2Tbsp.

PRAWN&EggSaladServes 46This appetiser is usually served during birthdays and special occasions. My grandauntie used to make this to celebrate our birthdays and it was a real treat! It is asimpledishbut it tasteswonderful andmakesexcellent finger food forparties.Whatmakesthisappetiseruniqueisthepeanutcandyaddedtothedressingwhichgivesitalighttasteofpeanutsandasweetflavour.Red chillies5, seeded, if desired,

for a less spicy dishSugar 1 TbspCalamansi limes45, juice extractedPeanut candy100 g (3 oz), crumbledPrawns (shrimps)100 g (3 oz), smallCucumber 1, peeled and sliced into roundsLettuce a few leavesHard-boiled eggs2, peeled and slicedinto rounds

1.Usingamortarandpestleorblender,grindchilliesintoapaste.Transfertoabowl.2.Addsugar,calamansijuiceandpeanutcandytobowlandmixwell.Setaside.3.Boilapotofwaterandaddprawns.Whenprawnsturnpinkandarecooked,drainandpeel.4.Toassemble,placeasliceofcucumberonalettuceleafandtopwithasliceofegg.Placeaspoonfulofchillipasteontop,thentopwithaprawn.5.Garnishasdesiredandserve.

NOTEIfpeanutcandyisnotavailable,usefinelychoppedunsaltedroastedpeanutsasasubstituteandincreasethequantityofsugaraddedto2Tbsp.

KERABUTIMUNNANASServes 46Thiscucumberandpineapplesaladisveryversatileandquicktoputtogether.Crunchycucumberandsweetpineapplearecutintosmallcubes,thentossedwithasimplebutflavourful roasted prawnpaste (belacan) dressing. This salad is typically servedwithrichandfillingnoodledishessuchasNyonyamee(page132)tohelpmakethemeallighteronthestomach.Red chillies80 g (2 oz)Roasted prawn (shrimp) paste (belacan)

(page 26) 23 tspSugar 1 TbspCucumber 1, peeled, sliced lengthways

in half, soft centre removed and dicedSarawak pineapple1, ripe, peeled and diced

1.Usingamortarandpestleorblender,grindchillieswithroastedprawnpasteuntilfine.2.Transfergroundpastetoamixingbowl.Addsugarandtosswithcucumberandpineapplecubesuntilsugarisdissolved.3.ServeimmediatelywithNyonyamee(page132).

NOTEThissaladcanbemademoresubstantialwiththeadditionofthinlyslicedcookedporkbellyandchickengizzard.Addtheporkbellyandchickengizzardtogetherwiththecucumberandpineapple.

KERABUTIMUNNANASServes 46Thiscucumberandpineapplesaladisveryversatileandquicktoputtogether.Crunchycucumberandsweetpineapplearecutintosmallcubes,thentossedwithasimplebutflavourful roasted prawnpaste (belacan) dressing. This salad is typically servedwithrichandfillingnoodledishessuchasNyonyamee(page132)tohelpmakethemeallighteronthestomach.Red chillies80 g (2 oz)Roasted prawn (shrimp) paste (belacan)

(page 26) 23 tspSugar 1 TbspCucumber 1, peeled, sliced lengthways

in half, soft centre removed and dicedSarawak pineapple1, ripe, peeled and diced

1.Usingamortarandpestleorblender,grindchillieswithroastedprawnpasteuntilfine.2.Transfergroundpastetoamixingbowl.Addsugarandtosswithcucumberandpineapplecubesuntilsugarisdissolved.3.ServeimmediatelywithNyonyamee(page132).

NOTEThissaladcanbemademoresubstantialwiththeadditionofthinlyslicedcookedporkbellyandchickengizzard.Addtheporkbellyandchickengizzardtogetherwiththecucumberandpineapple.

CHAPCHYEServes 68Thismixed vegetabledish is an all-time favouritewithboth the youngandold. Although the Chinese, Malays and even Indians have their ownversions of this dish, only the Nyonya verison features dried bean curdsticksanddried sweetbean curd. Thedishhastobesimmeredlongenough,withtherightamountofgarlicandpreserved soybeanpasteadded, tobringout the flavoursof the ingredients. Thisdish tastesbetterwithkeeping.

Dried Chinesemushrooms30 g (1 oz)Dried lily buds30 g (1 oz), about 30 piecesDried woodear fungus30 g (1 oz)Cooking oilas neededDried bean curd sticks60 g (2 oz),

cut into short lengthsDried sweet bean curd40 g (1 oz),

cut into stripsGarlic 68 cloves, peeled and finely choppedPreserved soy bean paste1 Tbsp, mashedGlass noodles30 g (1 oz), soaked to softenCabbage 300 g (11 oz), cut into small piecesCarrot 1, peeled and slicedSalt to taste

1.RinsedriedChinesemushroomsandsoakin500ml(16floz/2cups)waterforabout30minutesuntilmushroomsaresoftened.Slicemushroomsinhalf.Strainandreservesoakingliquid.

2.Rinsedriedlilybudsandsoakinwaterforabout30minutestosoftenbudsandremoveitsacidity.Drainwellandtieeachbudintoaknot.3.Rinsedriedwoodearfungusandsoakinwaterforabout30minutesuntilfungusisexpandedandsoftened.Cutintosmallerpiecesanddiscardanyhard

CHAPCHYEServes 68Thismixed vegetabledish is an all-time favouritewithboth the youngandold. Although the Chinese, Malays and even Indians have their ownversions of this dish, only the Nyonya verison features dried bean curdsticksanddried sweetbean curd. Thedishhastobesimmeredlongenough,withtherightamountofgarlicandpreserved soybeanpasteadded, tobringout the flavoursof the ingredients. Thisdish tastesbetterwithkeeping.

Dried Chinesemushrooms30 g (1 oz)Dried lily buds30 g (1 oz), about 30 piecesDried woodear fungus30 g (1 oz)Cooking oilas neededDried bean curd sticks60 g (2 oz),

cut into short lengthsDried sweet bean curd40 g (1 oz),

cut into stripsGarlic 68 cloves, peeled and finely choppedPreserved soy bean paste1 Tbsp, mashedGlass noodles30 g (1 oz), soaked to softenCabbage 300 g (11 oz), cut into small piecesCarrot 1, peeled and slicedSalt to taste

1.RinsedriedChinesemushroomsandsoakin500ml(16floz/2cups)waterforabout30minutesuntilmushroomsaresoftened.Slicemushroomsinhalf.Strainandreservesoakingliquid.

2.Rinsedriedlilybudsandsoakinwaterforabout30minutestosoftenbudsandremoveitsacidity.Drainwellandtieeachbudintoaknot.3.Rinsedriedwoodearfungusandsoakinwaterforabout30minutesuntilfungusisexpandedandsoftened.Cutintosmallerpiecesanddiscardanyhard

SAMBALKANGKONGServes 46This dish of spicy kangkong (also known as water spinach or water convolvulus) isanother favourite local dish. This recipe features kangkong cooked in aspice paste but some Nyonyas also prepare this dish by adding coconutmilkwhichmakes the taste richer. Kangkong can be substituted with sweet potato leaves orevensweetpotatoes.Dried prawns (shrimps)50 g (1 oz)Cooking oilas neededKangkong (water spinach)400 g (14 oz)Prawns (shrimps)150 g (5 oz), peeled

RempahCandlenuts 6Garlic 4 cloves, peeledShallots 150 g (5 oz),peeledRed chillies6Roasted prawn (shrimp)paste (belacan)(page 26) 2 tsp

1.Rinsedriedprawnsandsqueezeoutanywatertoremoveexcesssalt.Usingamortarandpestleorchopper,pounddriedprawnscoarsely.2.Heatsomeoilinawokandfrypoundeddriedprawnsuntilcrisp.Setaside.3.Usingamortarandpestleorblender,grindingredientsforrempahintoapaste.4.Heat2Tbspoilinawokandaddrempah.Stir-fryuntilfragrant.

5.Addkangkongandprawnsandmixwell.If rempahistoodry,sprinkleoversomewater.Coverwokandturnoffheat.Leavefor5minutes.6.Sprinkleoverfrieddriedprawnsandmixwell.Dishoutandserveimmediatelywithrice.

NOTEThedriedprawnscanbepoundedfinelyorcoarselyaccordingtoyourpreference.Iliketohaveitcoarseformoretextureandbite.

SAMBALKANGKONGServes 46This dish of spicy kangkong (also known as water spinach or water convolvulus) isanother favourite local dish. This recipe features kangkong cooked in a rempah orspice paste but some Nyonyas also prepare this dish by adding coconutmilkwhichmakes the taste richer. Kangkong can be substituted with sweet potato leaves orevensweetpotatoes.Dried prawns (shrimps)50 g (1 oz)Cooking oilas neededKangkong (water spinach)400 g (14 oz)Prawns (shrimps)150 g (5 oz), peeled

RempahCandlenuts 6Garlic 4 cloves, peeledShallots 150 g (5 oz),peeledRed chillies6Roasted prawn (shrimp)paste (belacan)(page 26) 2 tsp

1.Rinsedriedprawnsandsqueezeoutanywatertoremoveexcesssalt.Usingamortarandpestleorchopper,pounddriedprawnscoarsely.2.Heatsomeoilinawokandfrypoundeddriedprawnsuntilcrisp.Setaside.3.Usingamortarandpestleorblender,grindingredientsforrempahintoapaste.4.Heat2Tbspoilinawokandaddrempah.Stir-fryuntilfragrant.

5.Addkangkongandprawnsandmixwell.If rempahistoodry,sprinkleoversomewater.Coverwokandturnoffheat.Leavefor5minutes.6.Sprinkleoverfrieddriedprawnsandmixwell.Dishoutandserveimmediatelywithrice.

NOTEThedriedprawnscanbepoundedfinelyorcoarselyaccordingtoyourpreference.Iliketohaveitcoarseformoretextureandbite.

SAMBALBENDEHServes 46

Thisdishofstir-fried ladies fingers(bendeh)is simpleandversatile. Itmakesa tastymeal with plain rice. The ladies fingers can be replaced with aubergines(eggplants/brinjals) or even courgettes (zucchini). You can also prepare the dressingonitsownandserveitasadipwithrawvegetables.

Dried prawns (shrimps)30 g (1 oz)Cooking oil2 TbspLadies fingers150 g (5 oz)Sambal belacan (page 26) 2 TbspShallots 6, peeled and finely slicedCalamansi limes4, juice extractedSugar 1 Tbsp

1.Rinsedriedprawnsandsqueezeoutanywatertoremoveexcesssalt.2.Usingamortarandpestleorchopper,pounddriedprawnscoarsely.3.Heatsomeoilinawokandfrypoundeddriedprawnsuntilcrisp.Set

aside.4.Boilapotofwaterandblanchladiesfingersforabout3minutes.Drainandrinsewithcoolwater,thendrainagain.Cutintoshortlengthsandsetaside.5.Placesambalbelacan,shallots,limejuiceandsugarinamixingbowlandmixwell.6.Tossinladiesfingersandmixwell.Dishoutandsprinklewithfrieddriedprawns.Servewithrice.

SAMBALBENDEHServes 46

Thisdishofstir-fried ladies fingers(bendeh)is simpleandversatile. Itmakesa tastymeal with plain rice. The ladies fingers can be replaced with aubergines(eggplants/brinjals) or even courgettes (zucchini). You can also prepare the dressingonitsownandserveitasadipwithrawvegetables.

Dried prawns (shrimps)30 g (1 oz)Cooking oil2 TbspLadies fingers150 g (5 oz)Sambal belacan (page 26) 2 TbspShallots 6, peeled and finely slicedCalamansi limes4, juice extractedSugar 1 Tbsp

1.Rinsedriedprawnsandsqueezeoutanywatertoremoveexcesssalt.2.Usingamortarandpestleorchopper,pounddriedprawnscoarsely.3.Heatsomeoilinawokandfrypoundeddriedprawnsuntilcrisp.Set

aside.4.Boilapotofwaterandblanchladiesfingersforabout3minutes.Drainandrinsewithcoolwater,thendrainagain.Cutintoshortlengthsandsetaside.5.Placesambalbelacan,shallots,limejuiceandsugarinamixingbowlandmixwell.6.Tossinladiesfingersandmixwell.Dishoutandsprinklewithfrieddriedprawns.Servewithrice.

TAUGECHATAUKUAIKANASIN

Serves 46This dish of bean sprouts (tauge) stir-fried with firm bean curd (tau kua)fish(ikanasin)isatypicalhomestyledish.Thekeyistocook the bean sprouts lightlyso they retain their juiciness and crunchy texture. Frying the salted fish not onlymakes them crisp but also makes them more fragrant. For those who prefer tospice up this dish, sliced red chilli can be added together with the chives.

Cooking oilas neededFirm bean curd1 piece, cut into cubesSalted fish50 g (1 oz), cut into small cubesGarlic 4 cloves, peeled and finely choppedPrawns (shrimps)150 g (5 oz), peeledBean sprouts300 g (11 oz), tails removedChinese chives2 stalks, cut into short lengths

1.Heatsomeoilinawokandfrybeancurdcubesuntillightlybrowned.Drainwellandsetaside.2.Reheatoilinwokandfrysaltedfishuntilfragrant.Drainwellandsetaside.3.Leave2Tbspoilinwokandreheat.Addgarlicandstir-fryuntillightlybrowned.Addprawnsandstir-fryuntilprawnsturnpinkandarecooked.Sprinkleinsomewaterifprawnslookdry.

4.Addbeansproutsandfriedbeancurdcubesandcoverwokwithalidfor3minutes.Ifmixtureistoodry,sprinkleoversomewater.5.Addchivesandfriedsaltedfish.Mixwell.Dishoutandgarnishasdesired.Serveimmediatelywithrice.

NOTEAsavariationtothisrecipe,thesaltedfishcanbereplacedwithsaltedvegetable(kiamchye).Rinsethesaltedvegetableandcutintothinstripsthesamelengthasthebeansprouts.

TAUGECHATAUKUAIKANASIN

Serves 46This dish of bean sprouts (tauge) stir-fried with firm bean curd (tau kua) andsaltedfish(ikanasin)isatypicalhomestyledish.Thekeyistocook the bean sprouts lightlyso they retain their juiciness and crunchy texture. Frying the salted fish not onlymakes them crisp but also makes them more fragrant. For those who prefer tospice up this dish, sliced red chilli can be added together with the chives.

Cooking oilas neededFirm bean curd1 piece, cut into cubesSalted fish50 g (1 oz), cut into small cubesGarlic 4 cloves, peeled and finely choppedPrawns (shrimps)150 g (5 oz), peeledBean sprouts300 g (11 oz), tails removedChinese chives2 stalks, cut into short lengths

1.Heatsomeoilinawokandfrybeancurdcubesuntillightlybrowned.Drainwellandsetaside.2.Reheatoilinwokandfrysaltedfishuntilfragrant.Drainwellandsetaside.3.Leave2Tbspoilinwokandreheat.Addgarlicandstir-fryuntillightlybrowned.Addprawnsandstir-fryuntilprawnsturnpinkandarecooked.Sprinkleinsomewaterifprawnslookdry.

4.Addbeansproutsandfriedbeancurdcubesandcoverwokwithalidfor3minutes.Ifmixtureistoodry,sprinkleoversomewater.5.Addchivesandfriedsaltedfish.Mixwell.Dishoutandgarnishasdesired.Serveimmediatelywithrice.

NOTEAsavariationtothisrecipe,thesaltedfishcanbereplacedwithsaltedvegetable(kiamchye).Rinsethesaltedvegetableandcutintothinstripsthesamelengthasthebeansprouts.

MEAT&POULTRY

BabiRoastBabiTohay

BabiGorengTauyuLadaSatayBabiGoreng

BabiAyamPongtehBabiAsamNgohHiang

ChickenCurry

4648505254565860

AyamBuahKeluak

AyamPedasSiam

ItekSioAyam

GorengRempah

Ayam

BabiRoastBabiTohay

BabiGorengTauyuLadaSatayBabiGoreng

BabiAyamPongtehBabiAsamNgohHiang

ChickenCurry

4648505254565860

AyamBuahKeluak

AyamPedasSiam

ItekSioAyam

GorengRempah

Ayam

6266687072747678

BABIROASTServes 68Many Peranakan families have their own unique family recipes that are passeddown from generation to generation and this dish of roast pork was my mothersfavourite recipe which was taught to her by her mother. It is not a typicalPeranakandish butwhenevermymother prepared it,my fatherwould enjoy it as asnackwith beer or stout. It can be servedWestern-stylewith salad greens or Asian-stylewith riceandother sidedishes.Boneless pork loin600 g (1 lb 5 oz)Dark soy sauce2 TbspGroundwhite pepper2 tspSugar 1 TbspCloves a handfulWater 500ml (16 fl oz / 2 cups)Lettuce or cucumber slicesas desired

SauceWater 300ml (10 fl oz /1 cups)Cloves 6Cinnamon 1 stickSugar 3 TbspBlack peppercorns1 tspGroundwhite pepper1 tspDark soy sauce1 tsp1.Seasonporkwithdarksoysauce,pepperandsugar.

2.Usingthetipofasmallknife,makeslitsalloversurfaceofporkandstudporkwithcloves.3.Boilwaterinapotandaddpork.Simmeroverlowheatfor3040minutesuntilporkiscookedandtender.4.Preheatovento170C(330F).

5.Removeporkfrompotandreservestock.Placeporkonabakingtray.6.Roastporkintheovenfor15minutes,thenturnporkoverandroast

foranother15minutes.Leaveporktocoolbeforeslicing.7.Preparesauce.Combineallingredientsforsaucewithanystockfrombraisingpork.Bringtotheboil,thenlowerheattomediumandsimmerfor56minutesuntilsauceiscaramelisedandthick.

8.Serveroastporkwithsauceandasidesaladoflettuceorslicedcucumbers.

BABIROASTServes 68Many Peranakan families have their own unique family recipes that are passeddown from generation to generation and this dish of roast pork was my mothersfavourite recipe which was taught to her by her mother. It is not a typicalPeranakandish butwhenevermymother prepared it,my fatherwould enjoy it as asnackwith beer or stout. It can be servedWestern-stylewith salad greens or Asian-stylewith riceandother sidedishes.Boneless pork loin600 g (1 lb 5 oz)Dark soy sauce2 TbspGroundwhite pepper2 tspSugar 1 TbspCloves a handfulWater 500ml (16 fl oz / 2 cups)Lettuce or cucumber slicesas desired

SauceWater 300ml (10 fl oz /1 cups)Cloves 6Cinnamon 1 stickSugar 3 TbspBlack peppercorns1 tspGroundwhite pepper1 tspDark soy sauce1 tsp1.Seasonporkwithdarksoysauce,pepperandsugar.

2.Usingthetipofasmallknife,makeslitsalloversurfaceofporkandstudporkwithcloves.3.Boilwaterinapotandaddpork.Simmeroverlowheatfor3040minutesuntilporkiscookedandtender.4.Preheatovento170C(330F).

5.Removeporkfrompotandreservestock.Placeporkonabakingtray.6.Roastporkintheovenfor15minutes,thenturnporkoverandroast

foranother15minutes.Leaveporktocoolbeforeslicing.7.Preparesauce.Combineallingredientsforsaucewithanystockfrombraisingpork.Bringtotheboil,thenlowerheattomediumandsimmerfor56minutesuntilsauceiscaramelisedandthick.

8.Serveroastporkwithsauceandasidesaladoflettuceorslicedcucumbers.

BABITOHAYServes 46Thisisaveryoldrecipethatmanyhaveforgotten.Ilearntitfromtwoverygoodfriends,UncleTanKimGuanandAuntieRosieGwee,bothexcellentcooks.WeusedtomeetupatKatongAntiqueHouseonEastCoastRoadtochatandsharecookingtipsandrecipes.Theuniqueingredientinthisdishistheredyeastriceorangkak, afermentedrice,whichgivesthisdish itsdistinctiveredcolour.Today,redyeastriceextract isused inhealthsupplementsasanaturalstatintohelplowercholesterol.

Pork belly500 g (1 lb 1 oz), boiled andsliced into 1-cm (-in) thick slices

Cooking oilas neededLemon grass4 stalks, ends trimmed,

finely slicedShallots 20, peeled and finely slicedGarlic 20 cloves, peeled and finely sliced +

1 Tbspminced garlicKaffir lime leaves15Red chillies2, slicedGreen chillies2, sliced

Tohay PasteUncooked rice50 g (1 oz)Sea salt25 g ( oz)Red yeast rice20 g ( oz)Fermented prawns

(shrimps) (cincalok)250 g (9 oz)Brandy 3 tsp

Sugar 1 tsp

1.Preparetohaypasteatleast5daysahead.Heatawokanddry-fryuncookedriceandsaltseparatelyuntillightlybrowned.Removeandsetasidetocool.Reheatwokanddry-fryredyeastricefor1minute.Removeandsetasidetocool.

2.Separatelypoundroastedrice,seasalt,redyeastriceandfermentedprawns,thenpourintoaglassmixingbowlandmixwell.Addbrandyandsugarandmixwell.3.Pourtohaypasteintoaglassbottlewithalid.Coverandleavetofermentfor5daysbeforeusing,shakingthebottle3timesdaily,onceinthemorning,onceintheafternoonandonceatnight.4.Onthedayofcooking,boilasmallpotofwaterandcookporkbellylightly.Drainporkbellyandreservestock.Cutporkbellyinto1-cm(-in)thickslices.5.Heatsomeoilinawokanddeep-frylemongrassuntilcrispand

BABITOHAYServes 46Thisisaveryoldrecipethatmanyhaveforgotten.Ilearntitfromtwoverygoodfriends,UncleTanKimGuanandAuntieRosieGwee,bothexcellentcooks.WeusedtomeetupatKatongAntiqueHouseonEastCoastRoadtochatandsharecookingtipsandrecipes.Theuniqueingredientinthisdishistheredyeastriceorangkak, afermentedrice,whichgivesthisdish itsdistinctiveredcolour.Today,redyeastriceextract isused inhealthsupplementsasanaturalstatintohelplowercholesterol.

Pork belly500 g (1 lb 1 oz), boiled andsliced into 1-cm (-in) thick slices

Cooking oilas neededLemon grass4 stalks, ends trimmed,

finely slicedShallots 20, peeled and finely slicedGarlic 20 cloves, peeled and finely sliced +

1 Tbspminced garlicKaffir lime leaves15Red chillies2, slicedGreen chillies2, sliced

Tohay PasteUncooked rice50 g (1 oz)Sea salt25 g ( oz)Red yeast rice20 g ( oz)Fermented prawns

(shrimps) (cincalok)250 g (9 oz)Brandy 3 tsp

Sugar 1 tsp

1.Preparetohaypasteatleast5daysahead.Heatawokanddry-fryuncookedriceandsaltseparatelyuntillightlybrowned.Removeandsetasidetocool.Reheatwokanddry-fryredyeastricefor1minute.Removeandsetasidetocool.

2.Separatelypoundroastedrice,seasalt,redyeastriceandfermentedprawns,thenpourintoaglassmixingbowlandmixwell.Addbrandyandsugarandmixwell.3.Pourtohaypasteintoaglassbottlewithalid.Coverandleavetofermentfor5daysbeforeusing,shakingthebottle3timesdaily,onceinthemorning,onceintheafternoonandonceatnight.4.Onthedayofcooking,boilasmallpotofwaterandcookporkbellylightly.Drainporkbellyandreservestock.Cutporkbellyinto1-cm(-in)thickslices.5.Heatsomeoilinawokanddeep-frylemongrassuntilcrispand

BABIGORENGTAUYULADA

Serves 46

Slicesofporkmarinatedindarkandlightsoysauces(tauyu)andpepperstir-friedandsweetenedwithasprinklingofsugar.Thissidedish is typicaldaily farein many Peranakan homes and is a firm favourite with children. For a quick andsimpleyetsatisfyingmeal,servewithavegetablestir-fryandrice.

Lean pork500 g (1 lb 1 oz), cut into0.5-cm (-in) thick slices

Dark soy sauce1 Tbsp + 1 tspLight soy sauce2 TbspSesame oil1 TbspGroundwhite pepper3 tsp +more to tasteSugar 2 TbspCooking oil2 TbspHot water150ml (5 fl oz)

GarnishCoriander leaves (cilantro)to tasteWhite peppercorns(optional)

1.Placepork,1Tbspdarksoysauce,lightsoysauce,sesameoil,3tsppepperand1Tbspsugarinamixingbowlandmixwell.Coverandleaveporktomarinateforatleast30minutes.

2.Heatoilinawokandaddmarinatedpork.Stir-fryuntilporkiscooked.3.Removepork,leavingmarinadeinwok.Keepwokheated.4.Addhotwater,1Tbspsugarand1tspdarksoysaucetowok.Stirto

mixanddissolvesugar.Boiluntilsauceisthick,thenlowerheat.Addadashofpepperandturnoffheat.5.Returncookedporktowokandmixwell.Dishoutandgarnishwithcorianderleavesandwhitepeppercornsifdesired.Servehotwithrice.

NOTEAgoodcutofmeattouseforthisstir-frieddishisporkshoulderasitisleanyettender.

BABIGORENGTAUYULADA

Serves 46

Slicesofporkmarinatedindarkandlightsoysauces(tauyu)andpepper (lada),thenstir-friedandsweetenedwithasprinklingofsugar.Thissidedish is typicaldaily farein many Peranakan homes and is a firm favourite with children. For a quick andsimpleyetsatisfyingmeal,servewithavegetablestir-fryandrice.

Lean pork500 g (1 lb 1 oz), cut into0.5-cm (-in) thick slices

Dark soy sauce1 Tbsp + 1 tspLight soy sauce2 TbspSesame oil1 TbspGroundwhite pepper3 tsp +more to tasteSugar 2 TbspCooking oil2 TbspHot water150ml (5 fl oz)

GarnishCoriander leaves (cilantro)to tasteWhite peppercorns(optional)

1.Placepork,1Tbspdarksoysauce,lightsoysauce,sesameoil,3tsppepperand1Tbspsugarinamixingbowlandmixwell.Coverandleaveporktomarinateforatleast30minutes.

2.Heatoilinawokandaddmarinatedpork.Stir-fryuntilporkiscooked.3.Removepork,leavingmarinadeinwok.Keepwokheated.4.Addhotwater,1Tbspsugarand1tspdarksoysaucetowok.Stirto

mixanddissolvesugar.Boiluntilsauceisthick,thenlowerheat.Addadashofpepperandturnoffheat.5.Returncookedporktowokandmixwell.Dishoutandgarnishwithcorianderleavesandwhitepeppercornsifdesired.Servehotwithrice.

NOTEAgoodcutofmeattouseforthisstir-frieddishisporkshoulderasitisleanyettender.

SATAYBABIGORENGServes 46

I still remember the advice of my Auntie Alice when she taught me how to cookthis dish. She said, Rempah mesti chukop and tarok serai and daun lemo purotmeaningthattocookthisdishwell,onemustaddanadequateamountofspicesfortherempah and compliment it with the right amount of lemon grass and kaffir limeleaves. This ismyperfected recipe for thisdish.

Cooking oil2 TbspKaffir lime leaves68Pork belly300 g (11 oz), slicedLean pork300 g (11 oz), slicedCoconutmilk150ml (5 fl oz)Sea salt tsp

RempahCandlenuts 10Shallots 300 g (11 oz),peeledDried chilli paste (page27) 1 Tbsp

Roasted prawn (shrimp)paste (belacan)(page 26) 2 tsp

1.Usingamortarandpestleorblender,grindingredientsforrempahintoapaste.2.Heatoilinawokandaddrempahandkaffirlimeleaves.Stir-fryuntilfragrant.3.Addslicedporkbellyandleanporkandmixwell.Addalittlewaterifmixtureseemsdry.Stir-fryuntilporkiscooked.4.Addcoconutmilkandseasonwithsalt.Bringtotheboilanddishout.

5.Garnishasdesiredandservehotwithrice.

NOTEVarythisrecipebyusingchickenfilletinsteadofpork.

SATAYBABIGORENGServes 46

I still remember the advice of my Auntie Alice when she taught me how to cookthis dish. She said, Rempah mesti chukop and tarok serai and daun lemo purotmeaningthattocookthisdishwell,onemustaddanadequateamountofspicesfortherempah and compliment it with the right amount of lemon grass and kaffir limeleaves. This ismyperfected recipe for thisdish.

Cooking oil2 TbspKaffir lime leaves68Pork belly300 g (11 oz), slicedLean pork300 g (11 oz), slicedCoconutmilk150ml (5 fl oz)Sea salt tsp

RempahCandlenuts 10Shallots 300 g (11 oz),peeledDried chilli paste (page27) 1 Tbsp

Roasted prawn (shrimp)paste (belacan)(page 26) 2 tsp

1.Usingamortarandpestleorblender,grindingredientsforrempahintoapaste.2.Heatoilinawokandaddrempahandkaffirlimeleaves.Stir-fryuntilfragrant.3.Addslicedporkbellyandleanporkandmixwell.Addalittlewaterifmixtureseemsdry.Stir-fryuntilporkiscooked.4.Addcoconutmilkandseasonwithsalt.Bringtotheboilanddishout.

5.Garnishasdesiredandservehotwithrice.

NOTEVarythisrecipebyusingchickenfilletinsteadofpork.

BABIAYAMPONGTEHServes 68

This is one of the basic dishes that a Nyonyamust learn how to cookwell.mostPeranakandishes,itisimportanttouseanadequateamountofingredients,inthiscase, shallots, and caramelise them well, or the flavour of the dish will not comethrough.Foreverydaycooking,simplifythedishandusejustoneoftheseingredientsmushrooms, bamboo shoots or potatoes. Include all three ingredients for specialoccasions.Dried Chinesemushrooms60 g (2 oz),Water 750ml (24 fl oz / 3 cups)Shallots 300 g (11 oz), peeledGarlic 3 cloves, peeledCooking oil2 TbspPreserved soy bean paste2 Tbsp, mashedPork ribs or pork belly600 g (1 lb 5 oz),cut into pieces of desired size

Chicken 600 g (1 lb 5 oz),cut into piecesof desired sizeCanned bamboo shoot100g (3 oz),cut into wedgesDark soy sauce Tbsp

Rock sugar30 g (1 oz)Potatoes 200 g (7 oz),

about 3, peeledand cut into quartersGreen chillies3 sliced

1.RinsedriedChinesemushroomsandsoakin750ml(24floz/3cups)waterforabout30minutesuntilmushroomsaresoftened.Slicemushroomsinhalf.Strainandreservesoakingliquid.2.Usingamortarandpestleorblender,grindshallotsandgarlicintoapaste.3.Heatoilinapotandaddaddshallotandgarlicpaste.Stir-fryuntildryandfragrant,thenaddpreservedsoybeanpaste.Mixwellandstir-fryfor1minute.4.Addporkandchickenandstir-frytosearmeat.Removechickenandsetaside.Leaveporkinpot.5.Addmushroomsoakingliquid,mushrooms,bambooshoot,darksoysauceandrocksugar.Simmeruntilporkistender,thenreturnchickentopotandcontinuetosimmeruntilchickenisalmostdone.Addpotatoesandcookuntiltender.

6.Tasteandadjustseasoningwithmorerocksugarifnecessary.Thestewshouldhaveasubtlesweeteness.7.Dishoutandgarnishwithgreenchillies.ServehotwithriceortoastedFrench

BABIAYAMPONGTEHServes 68

This is one of the basic dishes that a Nyonyamust learn how to cookwell. AswithmostPeranakandishes,itisimportanttouseanadequateamountofingredients,inthiscase, shallots, and caramelise them well, or the flavour of the dish will not comethrough.Foreverydaycooking,simplifythedishandusejustoneoftheseingredientsmushrooms, bamboo shoots or potatoes. Include all three ingredients for specialoccasions.Dried Chinesemushrooms60 g (2 oz),Water 750ml (24 fl oz / 3 cups)Shallots 300 g (11 oz), peeledGarlic 3 cloves, peeledCooking oil2 TbspPreserved soy bean paste2 Tbsp, mashedPork ribs or pork belly600 g (1 lb 5 oz),cut into pieces of desired size

Chicken 600 g (1 lb 5 oz),cut into piecesof desired sizeCanned bamboo shoot100g (3 oz),cut into wedgesDark soy sauce Tbsp

Rock sugar30 g (1 oz)Potatoes 200 g (7 oz),

about 3, peeledand cut into quartersGreen chillies3 sliced

1.RinsedriedChinesemushroomsandsoakin750ml(24floz/3cups)waterforabout30minutesuntilmushroomsaresoftened.Slicemushroomsinhalf.Strainandreservesoakingliquid.2.Usingamortarandpestleorblender,grindshallotsandgarlicintoapaste.3.Heatoilinapotandaddaddshallotandgarlicpaste.Stir-fryuntildryandfragrant,thenaddpreservedsoybeanpaste.Mixwellandstir-fryfor1minute.4.Addporkandchickenandstir-frytosearmeat.Removechickenandsetaside.Leaveporkinpot.5.Addmushroomsoakingliquid,mushrooms,bambooshoot,darksoysauceandrocksugar.Simmeruntilporkistender,thenreturnchickentopotandcontinuetosimmeruntilchickenisalmostdone.Addpotatoesandcookuntiltender.

6.Tasteandadjustseasoningwithmorerocksugarifnecessary.Thestewshouldhaveasubtlesweeteness.7.Dishoutandgarnishwithgreenchillies.ServehotwithriceortoastedFrench

BABIASAMServes 46

Flavoured with tamarind juice and asam gelugor, this dish of stir-fried pork has asourishtastethatmakesitverymoreishandsatisfying. It is idealforeatingwithrice.My aunties used to say, Ada ini satu lauk sudah boleh, sama patah chilly hijou,meaningthatthisdishalonegarnishedwithsomecrushedgreenchilliesissufficienttomakeforagoodmeal.Cooking oil4 TbspPork belly600 g (1 lb 5 oz), cut into pieces

of desired sizeTamarind pulp100 g (3 oz), mixedwith

600ml (20 fl oz / 2 cups) water andstrained

Asam gelugor23 slicesSugar 2 Tbsp or to tasteGreen chillies3, sliced

RempahCandlenuts 8Shallots 250 g (9 oz),peeledRed chillies8Roasted prawn (shrimp)paste (belacan)(page 26) 2 tspPreserved soy bean paste1

Tbsp

1.Usingamortarandpestleorblender,grindingredientsforrempahintoapaste.2.Heatoilinapotandaddrempah.Stir-fryuntilfragrant.

3.Addporkandstir-frytomixwell.4.Addtamarindjuiceandasamgelugorandsimmerfor30minutesor

untilmeatistender.5.Addsugartotaste.

6.Dishoutandgarnishwithslicedgreenchillies.Servehotwithrice.

NOTEForalessfattydish,replacehalftheporkbellywithleanpork.

BABIASAMServes 46

Flavoured with tamarind juice and asam gelugor, this dish of stir-fried pork has asourishtastethatmakesitverymoreishandsatisfying. It is idealforeatingwithrice.My aunties used to say, Ada ini satu lauk sudah boleh, sama patah chilly hijou,meaningthatthisdishalonegarnishedwithsomecrushedgreenchilliesissufficienttomakeforagoodmeal.Cooking oil4 TbspPork belly600 g (1 lb 5 oz), cut into pieces

of desired sizeTamarind pulp100 g (3 oz), mixedwith

600ml (20 fl oz / 2 cups) water andstrained

Asam gelugor23 slicesSugar 2 Tbsp or to tasteGreen chillies3, sliced

RempahCandlenuts 8Shallots 250 g (9 oz),peeledRed chillies8Roasted prawn (shrimp)paste (belacan)(page 26) 2 tspPreserved soy bean paste1

Tbsp

1.Usingamortarandpestleorblender,grindingredientsforrempahintoapaste.2.Heatoilinapotandaddrempah.Stir-fryuntilfragrant.

3.Addporkandstir-frytomixwell.4.Addtamarindjuiceandasamgelugorandsimmerfor30minutesor

untilmeatistender.5.Addsugartotaste.

6.Dishoutandgarnishwithslicedgreenchillies.Servehotwithrice.

NOTEForalessfattydish,replacehalftheporkbellywithleanpork.

NGOHHIANGMakes 8 rolls

These meat rolls are typically served as part of a meal with rice and other sidedishes.Oneof the key ingredients in this dish is five-spicepowder and traditionally,the Nyonyaswouldmake their own spicemixture from scratch. A recipe is providedbelowifyouwouldliketotrymakingyourown.

Minced pork300 g (11 oz)Prawns (shrimps)600 g (1 lb 5 oz),

peeled and roughly choppedWater chestnuts20, peeled, washed and

roughly choppedOnions 2, large, peeled and finely choppedCarrot 1, peeled and finely choppedEgg 1, beatenGroundwhite pepper1 tsp

Five-spice powder1 tspCorn flour1 tspLight soy sauce2 TbspDried bean curd skin2

sheets, cut into8 squares, each 18-cm (7-in)

Cooking oilas neededCondimentsSweet flour sauceas desiredChilli sauce or sambal

belacan (page 26)as desired

1.Combineallingredientsexceptbeancurdskinandoilinamixingbowl.2.Wipebeancurdskinwithadampclothtosoftenit.3.Placeasheetofsoftenedbeancurdskinonaflatworksurface.Spoon

about2heapedtablespoonfulsofmeatmixtureinalinealongonesideofabeancurdskinsquare.Shapeintoaneatcylindricalshape.4.Foldedgesofskinontheleftandrighthandsidesinoverfilling,thenrollupneatly.Sitrollseamsidedown.Repeatuntilingredientsareusedup.5.Lightlygreaseasteamingrackandplacerollsonit.Steamrollsfor15minutes,thenremoveandleavetocoolcompletely.6.Whenrollsarecool,heat2Tbspoilinafryingpanandpan-fryrollsfor3minutesononesidebeforeturningrollsovertocookforanother3minutesontheotherside.7.Leavepan-friedrollstocoolbeforecuttinginto1-cm(-in)thickslices.Servewithsweetfloursauceandchillisauceorsambalbelacan.

NGOHHIANGMakes 8 rolls

These meat rolls are typically served as part of a meal with rice and other sidedishes.Oneof the key ingredients in this dish is five-spicepowder and traditionally,the Nyonyaswouldmake their own spicemixture from scratch. A recipe is providedbelowifyouwouldliketotrymakingyourown.

Minced pork300 g (11 oz)Prawns (shrimps)600 g (1 lb 5 oz),

peeled and roughly choppedWater chestnuts20, peeled, washed and

roughly choppedOnions 2, large, peeled and finely choppedCarrot 1, peeled and finely choppedEgg 1, beatenGroundwhite pepper1 tsp

Five-spice powder1 tspCorn flour1 tspLight soy sauce2 TbspDried bean curd skin2

sheets, cut into8 squares, each 18-cm (7-in)

Cooking oilas neededCondimentsSweet flour sauceas desiredChilli sauce or sambal

belacan (page 26)as desired

1.Combineallingredientsexceptbeancurdskinandoilinamixingbowl.2.Wipebeancurdskinwithadampclothtosoftenit.3.Placeasheetofsoftenedbeancurdskinonaflatworksurface.Spoon

about2heapedtablespoonfulsofmeatmixtureinalinealongonesideofabeancurdskinsquare.Shapeintoaneatcylindricalshape.4.Foldedgesofskinontheleftandrighthandsidesinoverfilling,thenrollupneatly.Sitrollseamsidedown.Repeatuntilingredientsareusedup.5.Lightlygreaseasteamingrackandplacerollsonit.Steamrollsfor15minutes,thenremoveandleavetocoolcompletely.6.Whenrollsarecool,heat2Tbspoilinafryingpanandpan-fryrollsfor3minutesononesidebeforeturningrollsovertocookforanother3minutesontheotherside.7.Leavepan-friedrollstocoolbeforecuttinginto1-cm(-in)thickslices.Servewithsweetfloursauceandchillisauceorsambalbelacan.

CHICKENCURRYServes 68In the olden days, the Nyonyas ground their own spices for curry powder to ensurethat theyhadtherightbalanceandmixofspices tomeettheirstringentstandards.Itwasmy nannywho taughtme how tomake curry powder. She also taught me tosubstitutecarrotswithradishtomakethecurrymoreflavourful.Uponfurtherresearch,I also found that radishmakes a better choice as it helps to reduce the heatiness ofthisdish.Cooking oil4 TbspCinnamon 1 stickStar anise1Chicken curry powder60 g (2 oz)Chicken1,about1.2kg(2lb11oz),

cutintopiecesofdesiredsizeWater 900ml (30 fl oz)Potatoes 6, peeled and cut into wedgesCarrot 1, peeled and cut into wedgesRadish 1, peeled and cut into wedgesCoconutmilk250ml (8 fl oz / 1 cup)Chopped palm sugar or white sugar1 TbspSea salt1 tsp

RempahLemon grass1 stalk,

bulbous end only, slicedOld ginger2.5-cm (1-in)

knob,peeled and slicedGarlic 3 cloves, peeled

Roasted prawn (shrimp)paste (belacan)(page 26) 1 tsp

1.Usingamortarandpestleorblender,grindingredientsforrempahintoapaste.2.Heatoilinacasserolepotorclaypot.Addcinnamonandstaraniseandstir-frylightly,thenaddrempahandstir-fryuntilfragrant.3.Mixcurrypowderwith100ml(3floz)watertoformapaste.Addtopotandstir-fryuntilfragrant.4.Addchickenandstir-frytosearmeat.Addwaterandsimmeruntilchickenisalmostdone.5.Addpotatoes,carrotsandradishandcookuntiltender.

CHICKENCURRYServes 68In the olden days, the Nyonyas ground their own spices for curry powder to ensurethat theyhadtherightbalanceandmixofspices tomeettheirstringentstandards.Itwasmy nannywho taughtme how tomake curry powder. She also taught me tosubstitutecarrotswithradishtomakethecurrymoreflavourful.Uponfurtherresearch,I also found that radishmakes a better choice as it helps to reduce the heatiness ofthisdish.Cooking oil4 TbspCinnamon 1 stickStar anise1Chicken curry powder60 g (2 oz)Chicken1,about1.2kg(2lb11oz),

cutintopiecesofdesiredsizeWater 900ml (30 fl oz)Potatoes 6, peeled and cut into wedgesCarrot 1, peeled and cut into wedgesRadish 1, peeled and cut into wedgesCoconutmilk250ml (8 fl oz / 1 cup)Chopped palm sugar or white sugar1 TbspSea salt1 tsp

RempahLemon grass1 stalk,

bulbous end only, slicedOld ginger2.5-cm (1-in)

knob,peeled and slicedGarlic 3 cloves, peeled

Roasted prawn (shrimp)paste (belacan)(page 26) 1 tsp

1.Usingamortarandpestleorblender,grindingredientsforrempahintoapaste.2.Heatoilinacasserolepotorclaypot.Addcinnamonandstaraniseandstir-frylightly,thenaddrempahandstir-fryuntilfragrant.3.Mixcurrypowderwith100ml(3floz)watertoformapaste.Addtopotandstir-fryuntilfragrant.4.Addchickenandstir-frytosearmeat.Addwaterandsimmeruntilchickenisalmostdone.5.Addpotatoes,carrotsandradishandcookuntiltender.

AYAMBUAHKELUAKServes810

This chicken and pork stew has come to be one of the defining dishes of Perankancooking. The buah keluak (Indonesian black nut) is the key ingredient in this dish,giving it its characteristic black colour. Every Perankan household has its own recipewith its own particular taste and you will always hear Nyonyas lamenting,sama,guapunyamakmasak lagi sedap,meaning that thedish theyhavecookedis not as good as their mothers. The final outcome of this dish depends on theconcentration of nuts used. As everybodys palate is different, the best way to cookthisdishistofollowtherecipe,thenadjustthetasteaccordingtoyourpreferencethenexttimearound.Cookingoil4 TbspChicken 1, about1.3 kg (2 lb14 oz),

cut intopiecesofdesired sizePork ribs500g (1 lb1oz), cut intopieces

ofdesired sizeTamarindpulp120g (4oz),mixedwith

1 litre (32 fl oz/4 cups)waterand strainedBuahKeluakBuahkeluak(Indonesianblacknuts) 1215Mincedpork150g (5 oz)Peeled small prawns (shrimps)300g (11oz)Sesameoil1 TbspLight soy sauce1 TbspSugar2 Tbsp

RempahCandlenuts 68Galangal 68 slicesLemongrass2 stalks,ends

trimmed,cut into short lengthsTurmeric 56 slices

Shallots 300g (11oz),peeledKaffir lime leaves68Roastedprawn (shrimp)

paste (belacan)(page26) 3 tspDried chilli paste (page27)

2Tbsp

1.Preparebuahkeluak3daysahead.Wash,thensoaknutsfor3days,changingwaterdaily.Ondayofcooking,crackcapofnutsusingapestle,removetheshelltomakeanopening,thenremovekernelusingateaspoon.

2.Mixtogethernutkernels,mincedpork,prawns,sesameoil,lightsoysauceandsugar.

AYAMBUAHKELUAKServes810

This chicken and pork stew has come to be one of the defining dishes of Perankancooking. The buah keluak (Indonesian black nut) is the key ingredient in this dish,giving it its characteristic black colour. Every Perankan household has its own recipewith its own particular taste and you will always hear Nyonyas lamenting, Taksama,guapunyamakmasak lagi sedap,meaning that thedish theyhavecookedis not as good as their mothers. The final outcome of this dish depends on theconcentration of nuts used. As everybodys palate is different, the best way to cookthisdishistofollowtherecipe,thenadjustthetasteaccordingtoyourpreferencethenexttimearound.Cookingoil4 TbspChicken 1, about1.3 kg (2 lb14 oz),

cut intopiecesofdesired sizePork ribs500g (1 lb1oz), cut intopieces

ofdesired sizeTamarindpulp120g (4oz),mixedwith

1 litre (32 fl oz/4 cups)waterand strainedBuahKeluakBuahkeluak(Indonesianblacknuts) 1215Mincedpork150g (5 oz)Peeled small prawns (shrimps)300g (11oz)Sesameoil1 TbspLight soy sauce1 TbspSugar2 Tbsp

RempahCandlenuts 68Galangal 68 slicesLemongrass2 stalks,ends

trimmed,cut into short lengthsTurmeric 56 slices

Shallots 300g (11oz),peeledKaffir lime leaves68Roastedprawn (shrimp)

paste (belacan)(page26) 3 tspDried chilli paste (page27)

2Tbsp

1.Preparebuahkeluak3daysahead.Wash,thensoaknutsfor3days,changingwaterdaily.Ondayofcooking,crackcapofnutsusingapestle,removetheshelltomakeanopening,thenremovekernelusingateaspoon.

2.Mixtogethernutkernels,mincedpork,prawns,sesameoil,lightsoysauceandsugar.

AYAMPEDASSIAMServes810MygreatgrandmotherwasfromSiam(formernameofThailand).Shemarried intoaPeranakanfamilyandbroughttheknowledgeofSiamesecookingwithher,infusingitinto many of the familys Peranakan dishes. This spicy chicken curry is one of hercreations.Wheneverwepreparedthisathome,myAuntieNelliewouldsay,besok,makansamarotiperanchis.(KeeptheleftoversandenjoywithtoastedFrenchloavesforbreakfastthenextday.)Youcanheedheradvice!Theflavoursofthiscurrydevelopswithkeepinganditgoeswellwithriceandbread.Coconutmilk300ml (10 fl oz/1cups)Cookingoil150ml (5 fl oz)Kaffir lime leaves4Chicken 1, about1.3 kg (2 lb14 oz),

cut intopiecesofdesired sizeTamarindpulp30g (1oz),mixedwith

600ml (20 fl oz/2cups)waterandstrained

Aubergines (eggplants/brinjals)2,halvedlengthwaysand sliced, then soaked insaltedwater

Sugar12 tspSea salt tsp

RempahCandlenuts 8Galangal 10 slicesLemongrass2 stalks,ends

trimmed,cut into short lengthsTurmeric 6 slices

Garlic 2 cloves,peeledShallots 300g (11oz),peeledDried chilli paste(page27)2 TbspRoastedprawn (shrimp)paste (belacan)(page26) 2 tsp

1.Usingamortarandpestleorblender,grindingredientsforrempahintoapaste.2.Dilutehalfthecoconutmilkbyadding200ml(7floz)water.Setaside.

3.Heatoilinawokandaddrempahandkaffirlimeleaves.Stir-fryuntilfragrant.4.Addchickenandstir-fryforabout3minutes.

5.Adddilutedcoconutmilkandtamarindjuice.Simmeruntilchickenisalmostdone.Addaubergines.6.Whenauberginesarecookedandtender,stirinbalanceofcoconutmilk,sugar

AYAMPEDASSIAMServes810MygreatgrandmotherwasfromSiam(formernameofThailand).Shemarried intoaPeranakanfamilyandbroughttheknowledgeofSiamesecookingwithher,infusingitinto many of the familys Peranakan dishes. This spicy chicken curry is one of hercreations.Wheneverwepreparedthisathome,myAuntieNelliewouldsay,Simpanbesok,makansamarotiperanchis.(KeeptheleftoversandenjoywithtoastedFrenchloavesforbreakfastthenextday.)Youcanheedheradvice!Theflavoursofthiscurrydevelopswithkeepinganditgoeswellwithriceandbread.Coconutmilk300ml (10 fl oz/1cups)Cookingoil150ml (5 fl oz)Kaffir lime leaves4Chicken 1, about1.3 kg (2 lb14 oz),

cut intopiecesofdesired sizeTamarindpulp30g (1oz),mixedwith

600ml (20 fl oz/2cups)waterandstrained

Aubergines (eggplants/brinjals)2,halvedlengthwaysand sliced, then soaked insaltedwater

Sugar12 tspSea salt tsp

RempahCandlenuts 8Galangal 10 slicesLemongrass2 stalks,ends

trimmed,cut into short lengthsTurmeric 6 slices

Garlic 2 cloves,peeledShallots 300g (11oz),peeledDried chilli paste(page27)2 TbspRoastedprawn (shrimp)paste (belacan)(page26) 2 tsp

1.Usingamortarandpestleorblender,grindingredientsforrempahintoapaste.2.Dilutehalfthecoconutmilkbyadding200ml(7floz)water.Setaside.

3.Heatoilinawokandaddrempahandkaffirlimeleaves.Stir-fryuntilfragrant.4.Addchickenandstir-fryforabout3minutes.

5.Adddilutedcoconutmilkandtamarindjuice.Simmeruntilchickenisalmostdone.Addaubergines.6.Whenauberginesarecookedandtender,stirinbalanceofcoconutmilk,sugar

ITEKSIOServes4

Thisduckdishmayseemsimplebutitrequirespracticetoperfectit.Toensureyougetthebestflavourfromthisdish,tryroastingyourowncorianderseedstomakegroundcoriander. To do this, dry-fry coriander seeds in a wok over low heat until fragrant.Leavetheseedstocoolbeforegrindingthemintoafinepowder.Youcandothisusingamortarandpestleorspicegrinder.Thisdishmusthaveagoodbalanceofsweetandsourtasteswithagoodaromafromthegroundcoriander.Iteksioistypicallyservedatfamilygatherings.Duckdrumstickswith thigh1pair, about500g (1 lb1oz)

Cookingoil150ml (5 fl oz)Plumsauce2 TbspMarinadeShallots 300g (11oz),peeledand

ground intoapasteGround coriander3 TbspSugar4 TbspDark soy sauce1 TbspTamarindpulp30g (1oz),mixedwith

400ml (13 fl oz/1 cups)waterand strained

Whitevinegar1 TbspSea salt1 tspGroundwhitepepper1 tsp

1.Combineingredientsformarinadeinacasserolepot.Addduck,coverandleavetomarinateforatleast1hour.2.Placecasserolepotonthestoveandsimmeruntilduckistender,addingwatertotopupmarinadeasitevaporatesifnecessary.3.Removeduckandleavetocool.Continuetosimmeruntilgravyisquite

ITEKSIOServes4

Thisduckdishmayseemsimplebutitrequirespracticetoperfectit.Toensureyougetthebestflavourfromthisdish,tryroastingyourowncorianderseedstomakegroundcoriander. To do this, dry-fry coriander seeds in a wok over low heat until fragrant.Leavetheseedstocoolbeforegrindingthemintoafinepowder.Youcandothisusingamortarandpestleorspicegrinder.Thisdishmusthaveagoodbalanceofsweetandsourtasteswithagoodaromafromthegroundcoriander.Iteksioistypicallyservedatfamilygatherings.Duckdrumstickswith thigh1pair, about500g (1 lb1oz)

Cookingoil150ml (5 fl oz)Plumsauce2 TbspMarinadeShallots 300g (11oz),peeledand

ground intoapasteGround coriander3 TbspSugar4 TbspDark soy sauce1 TbspTamarindpulp30g (1oz),mixedwith

400ml (13 fl oz/1 cups)waterand strained

Whitevinegar1 TbspSea salt1 tspGroundwhitepepper1 tsp

1.Combineingredientsformarinadeinacasserolepot.Addduck,coverandleavetomarinateforatleast1hour.2.Place