PENSHURST RSL TRAVEL CLUB BROKEN HILL & SURROUNDS

MONDAY 14 – TUESDAY 22 OCTOBER, 2019

DAY ONE: Oh boy, it was an early start as our train was to depart at 6.18 am!! A handful of our 22-member party stayed the previous night at the nearby Great Southern Hotel, allowing them an easy walk to Central Station for check-in 30 mins beforehand. The rest travelled to the city by any means

possible: limited public transport, shuttle and limousine services, family/friends perhaps putting relationships to the test at that time of the morning. The train consisted of three cars – one first class, two economy and all fully booked with 150 passengers. Our first-class carriage was shared with a couple of Probus groups and the plentiful leg room made it well worth the slight extra cost. As well, it was an easy walk to and from the refreshment bar at the end of our carriage, with all of our meals for the day purchased on board. The all-important alcohol was available after 11 am. So, the Broken Hill Outback Explorer departed on the dot of 6.18 am, with stops at Strathfield, Penrith, Katoomba and Lithgow. The countryside in this area was green and beautiful and it was interesting to see pretty Tarana (which we’d visited twice by road) from the train. We’d arrived in Bathurst just before 10 am, and then Orange at 11 am where a few mins leg stretch on the platform was permitted. At Parkes, almost two hours later, another leg stretch during the crew change – the Sydney crew would stay the night and return home the following day. The further west we travelled, the more barren the country became - shrubbery (saltbush) thick one minute and almost non-existent the next. We glimpsed the occasional homestead on the way to Ivanhoe (pictured) and Menindee where there were further chances for some platform exercise. Not a slow train by any means, but a 13-hour trip and, on arrival, we were told that Broken Hill was on Central Standard (SA) Time, so at least we’d enjoy an extra half an hour’s sleep.

Suitcases were unloaded as fast as possible, but the process definitely needed streamlining. Our Silver City Tours bus driver, Peter, was there to greet us and had to admit that he didn’t have a solution to the gridlock caused by 150 people collecting 150 suitcases all at the same time in a confined space! Five minutes max to our accommodation for the next eight nights, Ibis Styles Hotel, in the main drag of Argent Street, where fully unpacked and headed to a very welcome bed.

DAY TWO: There would be a Continental breakfast most mornings, but it was possible to purchase a cooked breakfast if required. Andrew, who appeared to be one of the managers, took our dinner order (a choice of three mains/three desserts) at breakfast each morning and this worked well.

Apart from our members, there was a young Portuguese couple travelling with us for the next three days. With them already on board, Peter arrived at 8.45 to collect us for the morning tour covering 50 km of the city. He talked about the population of a little less than 18,000 and which has steadily declined for years. Silver ore was discovered here in 1883

by a boundary rider named Charles Rasp, in the area originally known as Willyama. (The broken hill that gave its name to Broken Hill actually consisted of a number of hills that appeared to have a break in them.

This broken hill no longer exists, having been mined away.) Broken Hill Proprietary Company was founded by Rasp and six associates in 1885 and, 30 years later, the company diversified into steel production when it discovered that its ore reserves were limited. BHP mining ceased on 28 February 1939, but other mining operations continued at the northern and southern ends of the Line of Lode. Despite the slowing economic situation into the late 1990s and 2000s, Broken Hill was put on the National Heritage List in 2015 and remains Australia's longest running mining town. First up, Peter drove to Perilya Ltd, the Chinese company which, since purchasing from Rio Tinto in May 2002, runs the southern and northern operations and plans to open further mines along the Line of Lode. On entering the property and admiring the picnicking roo, we were escorted into a building housing a variety of historical mining relics, from photos, gemstones and mine models to some machinery. Even for the few of us not so interested, it really was a fascinating display. However, we needed to toe the line, with some of us being chastised by a security guard for venturing outside and away from the group. This was fair enough as our safety and the company’s security were paramount. Eventually permitted outside, we admired a sole rare pine tree that had been planted from seed brought in from overseas, but sadly the information wasn’t noted and there’s nothing about it on their website.

The drive continued around the southern part of the city, passing the (1888) South Broken Hill Hotel, a power station, the All Nations Hotel (which featured in the movie Last Cab to Darwin), a blue metal quarry and the CBH Mill. Dominating the town, is the magnificent Line of Lode hill, made up of waste from the mines. This and the railway line separate the city’s north and south, with the commercial centre on the northern side. On the drive up the hill, we passed the old Delprat Mine which brought back fond memories for a couple of us who had many years ago experienced the thrill of descending 200 metres by cage into the mine. More

recently, it closed to the public when mining leases were renewed. At the top of the hill were panoramic views plus the Visitors Centre – these days mainly a coffee shop with a lovely outlook – and the dramatic Miner’s Memorial (opened in 2001) which is where we spent most of the time. Incredibly tragic, it’s impossible to comprehend that more than 800 deaths have occurred here in the past 135 years. Time for coffee at the Tourist Information Centre located providentially at the rear of our hotel. Very impressive, it contains a wonderful souvenir shop and Gloria Jeans runs the well-stocked café, obviously a gold mine with its continual queue. For the following 45 minutes, we toured the northern side of town, starting with the TAFE College (formerly a female-run munitions depot) and then down Argent Street and its beautiful buildings. The standouts were the Post Office and its clock tower visible from almost everywhere, the beautiful 1889 Court House, and the Palace Hotel currently undergoing extensive external restoration. Some of the city’s figures that Peter quoted: six primary schools, two high schools, plus School of the Air, 14 hotels, four registered clubs. We passed the grassed 18-hole golf course (two in town, but the other is dirt), the Aquatic Centre, Hospital, Railway Museum, Council Chambers, Library, Trades Hall and the medium to low-security Correctional Centre, to name just a few on this comprehensive tour. We returned to the Ibis around noon and the rest of the afternoon was free.

At 6 pm, Peter arrived to take us out to the Broken Hill Sculptures, best viewed close to sunset. Only a few minutes drive on bitumen from town, the Living Desert Reserve contains a Flora and Fauna Sanctuary plus the Sculptures. We spent a little time driving in the reserve, then doubled back to take the, fortunately, one-way drive up to the hilltop and the 12 sandstone artworks overlooking magnificent scenery which included Broken Hill in the distance. The sculptures were completed in 1993 by artists from around the world and each piece has a story to tell. There were only a few other visitors which allowed everyone to take decent photos and the sunset didn’t

disappoint. All in all, a very pleasant experience. Back at the hotel by 7.45 with a lovely dinner waiting. DAY THREE: Surprisingly, there were showers this morning after Peter had said “It never rains in Broken Hill” – well obviously not often! Departing at 9.30 am, first stop was the Royal Flying Doctor Service located near the city’s airport. Rex Airlines services Broken Hill with a couple of flights per day to and from Sydney, Adelaide and Melbourne. Not cheap though! It took just ten minutes to arrive at the RFDS Bruce Langford Visitor Centre/Clive Bishop Medical Centre and guide, Russell, was waiting. After a great little movie, he led us upstairs in the hangar for a view of the old aircraft and one currently in use. Russell explained that the hangar will shortly become their museum. Outside on the tarmac was another of the three planes in service and it had been particularly busy the previous day. We shopped till we dropped in their souvenir shop, with Peter collecting us at 11 am. Back to our hotel for a short lunch break, before being picked up at 1.20 for Silverton. By this time, the sun had reappeared.

Tiny, historic 1880’s Silverton (aka Australia’s Outback Hollywood with about 45 movies filmed here) is about 25 km NW of Broken Hill on a bitumen road, and it is estimated that 100,000 people visit here annually! A brief photo stop at the impressive metal cut-out Silverton sign but, instead of stopping in town, Peter kept driving a handful of km north to the hilltop overlooking the Mundi Mundi Plains where, as someone said, it was like being “on the edge of the world” – an amazing view which apparently stretches for 80 km, but it looked to be so much more than that. They say that on a clear day the curvature of the earth can be seen. It certainly was a highlight.

Peter continued driving a little further north to the devastating sight of an empty Umberumberka Reservoir. A photo stop here where none of us could quite believe what we were seeing. (Do hope that the brief heavy rain in that area since we arrived home has helped somewhat.) Then back to Silverton where Peter pointed out places of interest during a lap of the town and, after dropping us at the famous Silverton Hotel, he very kindly continued lapping to pick up/drop off where needed, as the town is not particularly flat! However, it was so hot by this stage, that many of us took refuge in the welcome shade of the pub enjoying their refreshments. Group photo here. After admiring a couple of roaming donkeys, it was time to leave this quaint place which hadn’t been overrun with tourists today. Another lovely dinner in the hotel at 7 pm.

DAY FOUR: A very early brekkie today, as we were heading out to see what was left of Menindee Lakes. It was surprisingly cool and jackets were needed early on. About 110 km and 1½ hours on a bitumen road with just saltbush and sand and, apart from a very few trees, there was no greenery whatsoever. Mostly flat, but a few small hills. A couple of beautiful views along the way and Peter gave us fair warning about the area’s deadly snakes currently coming out of hibernation and therefore somewhat aggressive (we didn’t see any). We did catch sight of the odd emu and quite a few birds, particularly kites, hawks and eagles feeding on road kill. We changed time zones to EST and drove past the turn off to the lakes-edge town of Sunset Strip, to return here later. Peter took the left turn to Copi Hollow, a popular camping, water-sports and boating spot,

perched on the edge of an artificial lake which actually had water in it. Here there was morning tea before Peter explained the lakes system, ably assisted by a simplified map on the wall of the Broken Hill Speedboat Club! Next stop was a lookout overlooking Lake Menindee where some of us alighted the coach and clambered over the Syd to BH rail line to obtain a better view and photos – of nothing, except dead trees and a puddle which may have been run-off from nearby Lake Pamamaroo, and what looked like a little water (or it could’ve been a mirage) in the far, far distance. So depressing.

Anyway, to cheer everyone up, Peter drove the short distance to the Darling River which did have some water and the ‘River Lady’ was waiting for us. We, plus Rob and his wife running the cruise, filled this little boat, but it was comfortable enough and we enjoyed the hour going up and down river. There was a large variety of birds for entertainment and the old, gnarled River Red Gums on the banks were a real joy. Rob pointed out a “scarred” tree and explained that indigenous people in the past removed large bark pieces for traditional purposes such as canoes, shields, temporary shelters etc. According to the Creative Spirits website: more than 7,500 Aboriginal-scarred trees have been recorded in NSW, but fewer than 100 trees remain standing in their original location, due to farming, forestry, development and, of course, bushfires. Scarred trees are found wherever there are mature natives, especially box and red gum. They often occur along major rivers, around lakes and on flood plains, but also at significant (sacred) sites. While scarred trees are protected under state or territory law, many are still in danger of being damaged or cut down for firewood or during land clearing. Rob also spoke about the devastating fish kill that made news headlines here in January (and yet to be confirmed due to its remote location, there was possibly another at Lake Pamamaroo during our visit in mid-October). A sandwich and cake lunch went down well at the Maidens Menindee Hotel, NSW’s second oldest pub,

where Burke and Wills stayed in 1860 before continuing their exploration north to the Gulf of Carpentaria. Their story is on the plaque attached to a boulder outside the hotel’s entrance. From there, we took the corrugated road through part of Kinchega NP with sites significant to the Barkindji Aboriginal people. Saw a few roos and emus, but Emu Lake was empty – a shame for those who use the camping area. Peter was keen to show us the historic 1875 Woolshed – most impressive – and it’s possible to stay in the Shearers’ Quarters adjacent which were probably very clean and comfortable, but most of us weren’t enamoured with the idea. Six

rooms sleep up to 27 people, so a large group of family or friends could have a lot of fun and, being so remote, they could certainly make as much noise as they wanted.

Time to wander around the beautiful woolshed, these days stripped of its machinery, but it was possible to see how it had originally functioned. 25 minutes to arrive back on bitumen and passing the famous Menindee seedless grapevines, now virtually dead from lack of water. Peter turned into the road leading to Sunset Strip, a surprisingly large area of homes bordering Menindee Lake. Some were permanent homes (and we spotted a few diehard locals, plus a huge kangaroo and an echidna very much at home in someone’s garden), others were weekenders ideal for Broken Hill or Menindee residents, but several were for sale – prices around $90 to $100,000. The vast lake was completely empty and in place of spectacular water views were dead trees, some grasses and km of sand. Quite unbelievable. There was a stop at the old boat ramp for photos. Leaving here mid-afternoon, it was about a one-hour trip home, only slowing to view the completely empty Stephens Creek, with beautiful trees as its only blessing until the rains arrive. Dinner in the hotel.

DAY FIVE: Sunny today and an 8.45 am departure, staying local for a Taste of the Artback! Peter drove past some of the interesting buildings not formerly seen, until it was time for Pro Hart’s Gallery doors to open. Very pleasant tri-level gallery, great shop and a lovely lady in charge. It was possible to view a video about his life (1928-2006) and achievements, but apparently it was too long for the 40 minutes spent here. No photos permitted inside, unfortunately, but we were able to photograph his Rolls Royce collection outside.

About five km out of town and travelling along the Barrier Hwy which leads 500 km+ to Adelaide, was the AGL Solar Farm situated on 140 ha of crown land. Broken Hill has one of the highest levels of solar radiation in NSW, making it an ideal location, and it was gobsmacking – 677,760 solar PV modules supplying around 17,000 homes. Such a great idea to build a viewing platform which we made good use of, but it wasn’t high enough to take in the full extent of this extraordinary place. Passing the cemetery where we caught a quick glimpse of the large square slab that is Pro Hart’s grave, next stop was the Silver City Mint & Art Centre where we were quickly ushered into the area containing The Big Picture, the World’s largest acrylic painting on canvas by a single artist, locally-born Ando. This popular attraction was opened in 2001, with the canvas an amazing 100 m long (and 12 m at its highest point) containing 100,000 saltbush, 20,000 trees, 20,000 small stones, 1,000 large stones, 3,000 clouds, 1,500 hills and the 12 sculptures included. Sadly, photography was not permitted. The centre also had a wonderful shop and our group certainly made a great contribution to their coffers.

To complete the art tour, Jack Absalom’s Gallery with its pretty garden was next and was where a few opal products and some of his prints were purchased from upwards of $350. Didn’t notice any originals for sale, as there were on a visit here a few years back. However, Jack passed away in March this year, so originals would be somewhat harder to come by and much more expensive these days. It was lunchtime and Peter dropped one of our group back to the Ibis and drove the rest to South Broken Hill and the row of shops featuring the renowned Bells Milk Bar & Museum, a

step back in time to the 1950’s. Some of us ate there, others tried their $9 milkshakes and the museum was popular. A little hamburger place a few doors down, Pepe’s Milk Bar, was hands down the pick of the two (for prompt service anyway). Great food and extremely popular with tradies which is always a good sign.

The woman who ran it was so friendly and efficient - nothing was too much trouble. A few of our ladies scored some beautiful buttons from the kindly owner of the craft shop nearby.

Last call for the day was White’s Mineral Art & Mining Museum. Some of the following is taken from the Broken Hill City Council website: Host Kevin ‘Bushy’ White is a veteran of the local mining industry having worked for many years underground. He’s turned his passion into the backyard museum as well as a place to hang his growing collection of mineral artworks made from crushed-up local minerals. After being seated, Bushy gave a very interesting and simplified presentation showing the changes that have occurred in mining and mining operations from 1885 to the present day. There are 1500 pieces of mining memorabilia on

display and we were free to wander and ask any questions. Mind blowing was his wife, Betty’s 2,000-strong doll and bear collection which she has been making and dressing for over thirty years. The museum has a small shop with souvenirs and minerals for sale and a few purchases were made. Back to our hotel for drinks and the last of the included dinners which had been excellent. DAY SIX: A free day, but it was Saturday and shops closed at 12 noon, turning the city into a ghost town. A few of us decided to take in the Australian movie “Ride Like a Girl” at the art deco-style Silver City Cinema about three or four blocks from the Ibis. Originally built on the site of Johnsons Indoor/Outdoor Theatre (1915), it was later Century/New Century Theatre until 1964 when it was destroyed by fire. The current cinema opened on 14th September 1967. Very quaint, with movie entry validated by a raffle ticket! We enjoyed the movie!

On our trek back to the Ibis, it wasn’t possible to walk past The Palace Hotel, famous for its role in ‘Priscilla’, without taking a peek inside. Due to the considerable hoarding/scaffolding, it was a challenge finding an entrance, but nobody appeared to mind our wandering around and photo-taking. At least two others popped in to the Albert Kersten Mining and Minerals Museum (aka the GeoCentre) where it’s possible

to explore all aspects of Broken Hill's unique geology, as well as the earth sciences of mineralogy and metallurgy. Very enjoyable and highly recommended.

Fortunately, there were a few eateries open for lunch, and several clubs and hotels were open for dinner. The clubs were a slightly better option as they provided a courtesy bus to and from our hotel. DAY SEVEN: A cool Sunday with a cloudless sky. Following a hurried breakfast and armed with overnight bags, we met Peter for a 7.30 am departure to White Cliffs for one night. Fortunately, we kept our rooms at

the Ibis, so most belongings were safely left behind. Back on the Barrier Hwy, it was about 195 km to our morning tea stop at Wilcannia, passing a few points of interest along the way: The Old North Mine, Lakeview Caravan Park (and another waterless lake), the occasional hill, lots of saltbush with an odd tree – incredibly dry. There were two 13.5 m satellite dishes within the NBN ground station operational from 2015, the Broken Hill Outback Resort which is owned by the same people as the White Cliff’s Underground Motel, goats, another section of Stephens Creek, sheep and more goats.

About 20 mins out of Broken Hill, we hit the plains – dead flat as far as the eye could see, with the accompanying 50 km of straight road boasting just two bends. After spotting a solitary roo, we arrived at the EST spot, putting our clocks forward 30 mins. (Photo is of the return sign!) We passed the Little Topar Roadhouse, a flock of the black-faced Dorper sheep and the dry Springs Creek Rest

Area, but the country became slightly greener near Wilcannia. This often-maligned town (Aboriginal meaning 'gap in the bank where floodwaters escape' or 'wild dog' - neither meaning has been linguistically verified) boasts some beautiful old buildings and we stopped for a cuppa right opposite the gorgeous hospital on the banks of the Darling River looking more like a creek these days. It’s hard to imagine that the town was the third largest inland port in the country during the great river boat era of the mid-19th century, with 13 hotels and a population of 3,000. It was also the location of the first brewery which the famous beer entrepreneur Edmund Resch built in Australia. At the 2016 census, Wilcannia’s population was just 549.

There was a left turn off the Barrier Hwy on to Opal Miners Way, a good 93 km bitumen road to White Cliffs, taking about an hour. Peter’s great driving avoided a large brown snake crossing the road and we passed the essential power lines leading to the town. Also interesting were the Leopardwood trees, ‘Flindersia maculosa’, from the citrus family and so named because of their spotted bark. Their habitat is stony hills and sand plains of the warm semi-arid zone of the Australian continent, and Mother Nature has cleverly

made them prickly as young saplings to deter animals from eating and so destroying them. By now, the landscape was constantly changing and there were 100,000-acre properties (or larger) in the region. We spied some beautiful Black Angus cattle, although there were sheep in the area as well. By 11 am, we’d arrived at White Cliffs and stopped outside Southern Cross Opals, where Dick met us for a video presentation and, of course, some shopping. Then a quick toilet stop where we admired the very pink galahs (for some reason more colourful than their Sydney cousins), before a quick visit to Joe’s Opals where Robyn assisted with a few more purchases.

Lunch was beckoning and the beautifully cool Dowton Family-run Red Earth Opal Café had been booked for us and another group. Sacha, Graeme’s wife, provided a plentiful supply of delicious fresh wraps – how she managed this, living in the middle of nowhere is nothing short of amazing. This was followed by Graeme’s talk and a showing of his incredible finds, including rare Pineapple Opals. After signing indemnity forms, both groups drove to the family’s mining site where Graeme and son, Jaymin, requested that hard hats were donned before a demonstration of their surface equipment and entering their working and producing opal mine. From the surface, a relatively easy walk down a ramp carved through the multiple levels of diggings, to reach a depth of 45 feet. Even though access was not difficult, a few of us felt uncomfortable in a crowd of more than 40 within such a confined space and were forced to seek refuge in our coach for an hour or so. Unfortunate, but most of us enjoyed the tour and our hosts were fabulous. After signing out - ensuring that no-one was left in the mine - we headed to check-in at the Underground Motel.

One member hadn’t been allocated a room, but that was easily fixed. Trying hard to make sense of the supplied map, time was spent wandering around the passageways, searching firstly for our rooms, then the shared bathrooms and then the way back to the dining/lounge area. Some had stayed here once or twice previously, but it hadn’t become any easier! Drinks and the buffet dinner went down extra well and, as there was only the one TV in the communal loungeroom, most of us were in bed early. The rooms were comfortable but, with most of us being

older, the downside was the essential nightly pee (or two or three) and praying that the bladder would hold up whilst meandering in a half stupor to the bathroom. Only a super sound sleeper wouldn’t have heard the opening and closing of bedroom doors that seemed to go on all night. However, it’s a unique motel that everyone should experience at least once!

DAY EIGHT: The delightful crowing of a nearby rooster signalled to some of us that a 4.30 am shower was in order – certainly beat any possible queues later. A Continental breakfast at 7 am, departing the motel an hour later, with Peter most disappointed that, due to roadworks, he couldn’t access the historic Cemetery and instead took us ‘noodling’ or, in other words, fossicking. On this beautiful morning, we searched in piles of rubble for any small bits of opal that miners had inadvertently discarded, with a couple of us having a little luck but nothing substantial. Back into town for a quick toilet stop and a sticky-beak at the huge number of Shitbox Rally vehicles that had arrived the previous night, the occupants of which were now queueing at the Sporting Club for breakfast! This Rally is not a race, rather a challenge to drive cars worth no more than $1,000 across Australia via some of its most formidable roads, to raise money for the Cancer Council. Held twice a year in Autumn and Spring, this one began in Melbourne on 19 October and would travel via Birdsville, finishing in Townsville on October 25th, a total of 3,614 km. All cars must be sold by going to auction at the end. It all appeared very well organised.

About 120 km out from Broken Hill and somehow bypassing Wilcannia, we stopped at the Spring Hills Rest Area with its invaluable ‘long-drop’, and to enjoy morning tea. It was here, too, that Peter was presented with our thank you card and gift. He had been absolutely fabulous! By midday, we’d arrived back at the Ibis and went in search of lunch. The rest of the afternoon was free, but there was packing to do and the all-important decision of where to go for dinner. Again, the clubs were popular.

DAY NINE: Our hotel did provide a very early breakfast and some took up the offer. The rest of us concentrated on being ready for the 6.45 am pick-up for the station. Unfortunately, one of our members was missing, having had a nasty fall outside the hotel the previous night and was undergoing assessment in the local hospital. It would take several days to find out the damage, but apparently a local travel agent was looking after her and would be arranging a flight back to Sydney the following day. After a final farewell to Peter, we joined the queue for the suitcase weighing/check-in, before boarding the first-class carriage to find ourselves sharing with the same Probus people that we’d travelled up with. The fully-loaded train left on the dot of 7.45 am and, within a short time, hot food was on offer. The next few hours passed normally until Bathurst Station in the early evening, when a problem with the track was reported between there and Lithgow. We sat in the carriage for an hour, before it was announced that the rest of the journey would continue as normal, but with a ‘go slow’ in the troublesome area. Of course, the train was an hour late arriving at Central (10.45 pm and 14 hours), causing a flurry of phone calls and messages to those who were meeting us. Thank goodness for mobiles. However, it had been a great trip and, for us, travelling both ways by train was very different from our normal coach travel. A very pleasant experience and Elizabeth may look at doing more of these in the future. A big thank you to the person(s) who structured the Rail Package, to Elizabeth who organised it at our end and to Peter who was an exceptional driver and guide.