pearson redux rethinking tradition vikram vij's my shanti makes its

Classic comfort sweets are inspiring contemporary desserts

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foodserviceandhospital ity.com $4 | OCTOBER 2014

PEARSON REDUX

Celebrity chefs help reinvent

the foodservice scene at

Toronto’s international

airport

RETHINKING TRADITIONNon-traditional

foodservice operators are creating new

efficiencies amidst old challenges

PLUSVIKRAM VIJ’S

MY SHANTI MAKES ITS

DEBUT

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FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER 2014 1FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

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Features

18 THE CHERRY ON TOP Chefs dish up sweet nostalgia with classic, comforting desserts By Lindsay Forsey

24 YYZ FOOD FLIGHT PLAN Since 2011, almost 30 food and beverage units have been added or redeveloped at Canada’s largest airport. Will the changes make Toronto Pearson International Airport a world-class food hub? By Ian Harrison

33 ADAPTING TO CHANGE Non-traditional segment caterers are finding new ways to serve a unique demographic By Laura Pratt

39 THE BAR IS OPEN From Toronto’s Jen Agg and Halifax’s Jenner Cormier to Quebec’s Véronique Rivest, today’s bartenders and sommeliers are creating their own rules By Jennifer Febbraro

41 IF THE SUITE FITS Induction technologies are increasing efficiencies as cooking island add-ons By Denise Deveau

Departments

2 FROM THE EDITOR

5 FYI

14 NOW OPEN: My Shanti, South Surrey, B.C.17 FROM THE DESK

OF ROBERT CARTER

48 CHEF’S CORNER:

David Gunawan, Farmer’s Apprentice Restaurant, Vancouver

39

14 24

2 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER 2014 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

Rosanna CairaEditor/Publisher

[email protected]

FROM THE EDITOR

For daily news and announcements: @foodservicemag on Twitter and Foodservice and Hospitality on Facebook.

Who needs a calendar to tell

you it’s a new season when

you can feel the change in

the air. Autumn may mark the return

to school and cooler weather, but it also

marks the return to a back-to-business

mentality. In fact, it was late summer

when news hit that American burger

chain Burger King and Canada’s iconic

doughnut chain Tim Hortons were join-

ing forces (see story on p. 5).

The merger heralds a new chapter

in the Canuck company’s illustrious

history (it celebrated its 50th anniver-

sary this past spring). And while no one

knows what changes will be made over

the coming years, Tims aficionados can

only hope their perennial favourite will

retain the charm and character that

has endeared it to fans for five decades.

Consumers and pundits alike agree you

couldn’t get a bigger story than this

one, which was splashed across every

Canadian newspaper and on every web-

site, taking Canadians by surprise as

everyone was enjoying the last vestiges

of summer. Just a week earlier, Tims had

made the headlines by introducing a

dark roast in an attempt to offer con-

sumers a more intense flavour — its first

coffee introduction in half a century,

further heating up the coffee wars, which

have never been as intense.

Change has become pervasive in the

competitive foodservice industry where

mergers and acquisitions are almost

daily fodder as companies continue to

gobble each other up like yesterday’s

dinner. A few months ago, Cara and

Prime made headlines through par-

ent company Fairfax’s acquisition of

Cara. One wonders what other block-

buster deals are on the horizon and how

the foodservice industry will change as

a result.

Competition is increasingly fierce

today. Companies outdo each other daily

with new products in hopes of wow-

ing today’s fickle consumer. While Tims

recently introduced a new dark roast,

Second Cup followed suit by introduc-

ing a new “white” coffee. On the ham-

burger front, where burger wars are just

as intense as coffee wars, new joints are

popping up daily, while existing chains

are introducing new variations on a

theme, including the “stuff ’d” burgers,

recently offered for a limited time by

Oakville, Ont.-based Works Gourmet

Burger Bistro.

Even the staid non-traditional cat-

egory (hospitals, universities and air-

ports) are being reinvented (see story

on p. 33). Earlier this year, Toronto’s

Pearson International Airport, for exam-

ple, introduced a series of new food con-

cepts (see story on p. 24). Once havens for

mediocre food priced exorbitantly high,

many airport managers are now looking

to celebrity chefs to bring new lustre to

their offerings.

Speaking of new, we’re pleased to

announce the launch of our new website

at foodserviceandhospitality.com. After

countless hours of development, the

revamped, modified, re-engineered and

responsive website promises to deliver

what today’s sophisticated readers want.

On the print side, we’ve recently added

a new column called Now Open to our

editorial mix, highlighting a new res-

taurant every month, because, as we all

know, in today’s world, it’s all about the

next best thing.

Change has become pervasive in the competitive food-service industry where mergers and acquisitions are almost daily fodder as companies continue to gobble each other up like yesterday’s dinner

“

”

A NEW SEASON

PRESIDENT & GROUP PUBLISHER MITCH [email protected]

EDITOR & PUBLISHER ROSANNA [email protected]

ART DIRECTOR MARGARET [email protected]

MANAGING EDITOR BRIANNE [email protected] EDITOR HELEN [email protected] EDITOR JACKIE [email protected]

WEB COMMUNICATIONS SPECIALIST MEGAN O’[email protected]

MULTIMEDIA MANAGER DEREK [email protected] DESIGNER COURTNEY [email protected]

SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER/U.S.A. WENDY GILCHRIST [email protected] MANAGER/CANADA STEVE [email protected] MANAGER/CANADA MARIA FAMA [email protected] & MARKETING ASSISTANT CHERYLL SAN [email protected]

CIRCULATION PUBLICATION PARTNERS [email protected], (905) 509-3511

DIRECTOR JIM [email protected]

ACCOUNTING DANIELA [email protected]

OFFICE MANAGER TINA [email protected]

ADVISORY BOARDCORA FRANCHISE GROUP DAVID POLNYCRAVE IT RESTAURANT GROUP ALEX RECHICHIFAIRFAX FINANCIAL HOLDINGS LIMITED NICK PERPICKFHG INTERNATIONAL INC. DOUG FISHERFRESHII MATTHEW CORRINHEALTH CHECK CANADA I HEART & STROKE FOUNDATION KATIE JESSOPJOEY RESTAURANT GROUP BRITT INNESLECOURS WOLFSON LIMITED NORMAN WOLFSONNEW YORK FRIES & SOUTH ST. BURGER CO. JAY GOULDSCHOOL OF HOSPITALITY & TOURISM MANAGEMENT, UNIVERSITY OF GUELPH BRUCE MCADAMSSENSORS QUALITY MANAGEMENT DAVID LIPTONSOTOS LLP JOHN SOTOSMANITOWOC FOODSERVICE JACQUES SEGUINTHE HOUSE OF COMMONS JUDSON SIMPSONTHE MCEWAN GROUP MARK MCEWANUNILEVER FOOD SOLUTIONS NORTH AMERICA GINNY HARE

To subscribe to F&H, visit foodserviceandhospitality.com

Volume 47, Number 7 Published 11 times per year by Kostuch Media Ltd., 23 Lesmill Rd., Suite 101, Toronto, Ont., M3B 3P6. Tel: (416) 447-0888, Fax (416) 447-5333, website: foodserviceandhospitality.com. Subscription Rates: 1-year subscription, $55 (HST included); U.S. $80; International, $100.

Canada Post – “Canadian Publication Mail Product Sales Agreement #40063470.” Postmaster send form 33-086-173 (11-82).

Return mail to: Kostuch Media Ltd., 23 Lesmill Rd., Suite 101, Toronto, Ont., M3B 3P6. Member of CCAB, a Division of BPA International, International Foodservice Editorial Council, Restaurants Canada, The American Business Media and Magazines Canada. We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada, through the Canadian Periodical Fund (CPF) of the Department of Canadian Heritage. Printed in Canada on recycled stock.

If you’d like to see your sales and profits reach new heights, contact Piller’s Foodservice Sales.

We’re experts at helping your foodservice programs climb to their potential.

Foodservice Sales • 1-800-265-2628www.pillersfoodservice.com

If you’d like to see your sales and profits reach new heights, contact Piller’s Foodservice Sales.

We’re experts at helping your foodservice programs climb to their potential.

Foodservice Sales • 1-800-265-2628www.pillersfoodservice.com

HOW DO YOURSANDWICHES

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A classic reinvented using beef that is lightly sauced and tender. Sure to be a hit on your menu!


M O N T H L Y N E W S A N D U P D A T E S F O R T H E F O O D S E R V I C E I N D U S T R Y

COOL CAPTAINS Executive jobs and duties will be shuffled in line with a deal that will bring Tim Hortons and Burger King together to become a new parent company. Alex Behring, managing partner of 3G Capital and executive chairman of Burger King, will lead the new global company as executive chairman and director. Meanwhile Marc Caira (left), CEO of Tim Hortons, will become vice-chairman and director, while Daniel Schwartz, CEO of Burger King, will become group CEO.

FYI

TAX DIVERSION? “This is not a tax-driven

deal,” says Alex Behring,

executive chairman of

Burger King and managing

partner of 3G Capital, a Rio

de Janeiro-based invest-

ment firm, addressing the

concern that a new parent

company combining Burger

King and Tim Hortons stands

to save by setting up shop

in Canada. “Burger King’s

effective tax rate is currently

in the mid- to high-20 [per

centage], which is pretty

much in line with the current

effective rate in Canada.

Additionally, Burger King’s

headquarters will remain in

Miami, and the company will

continue to pay the same

federal, state and local

taxes,” he adds.

Consolidation continues to reshape the restaurant industry. Several months after

Toronto-based Fairfax Financial brought the industry’s biggest casual-dining players

— including Cara Operations and The Keg — under one umbrella, there’s news of

another game changer. In late August, Tim Hortons and Burger King announced a merger

that will create a new parent company based on Canadian soil, with details about the location

and date of the change sparse at press time.

What is known is that the new publicly traded company will create the globe’s third-larg-

est quick-service threat, generating $23 billion in system sales across nearly 18,000 units. Its

largest shareholder, 3G Capital, a Rio de Janeiro-based investment firm, which owns 70 per

cent equity in Burger King, will control 51 per cent of the new venture. But, Tim Hortons will

be “at the very heart of this new company,” says Marc Caira, CEO of Tim Hortons. “We will

have the ability to be bolder and better positioned to take our brand quickly and efficiently

to a global customer base,” Caira adds, emphasizing the merger will have no impact on Tim

Hortons’ franchisees, as Tims will continue to operate as an independently managed brand

from its headquarters in Oakville, Ont. “In a nutshell, what this transaction will do is give us

a chance to share with the world what Canadians already know and love,” he says.

Thanks to Burger King’s nearly 14,000 units across 98 countries, Tims will be better-

positioned to plant roots across the globe by tapping into Burger King’s existing franchise

system, rather than starting from scratch in new markets, speculates Doug Fisher, president

of FHG International Inc., a Toronto-based franchising consultancy. And, the partnership

will help Tims gain traction in the U.S., where it previously struggled to expand. “Having a

partner like Burger King who understands the U.S. market could provide Tim Hortons with

options on how to penetrate that market better,” Fisher explains.

Miami-based Burger King also stands to gain from Tim Hortons’ 50 years of coffee-

slinging experience. Fisher predicts the burger giant may swap its Seattle’s Best Coffee (a

wholly owned subsidiary of Starbucks) with Tim’s roasts; it may also use Tim’s technology

and product lines, helping it compete with McDonald’s McCafé program. “[Burger King is]

getting unbelievable expertise in the execution [of] coffee programs,” Fisher says.

COMBINE AND CONQUER Burger King and Tim Hortons aim to grow their global presence as one new parent company

BY JACKIE SLOAT-SPENCER

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FYI

COMINGEVENTSOCT. 25: Canadian Hospitality Foundation Ball, Metro Toronto Convention Centre, Toronto. Tel: 416-363-3401; email: [email protected]; website: thechf.ca

NOV. 3-4: 2014 Connect Show, Vancouver Convention Centre West, Vancouver. Tel: 604-628-5655; email: samantha@ connectshow.com; website: connect show.com

NOV. 20: Hospitality Professionals Association Conference and IT Exhibition (HOSPACE 2014), Sofitel London Heathrow, London, England. Tel: +44 (0) 203-418-8196; email: [email protected]; website: hospace.net

NOV. 20-23: Gourmet Food and Wine Show, Metro Toronto Convention Centre, Toronto. Tel: 905-522-6117; email: [email protected]; website: foodandwine-expo.ca

DEC. 5: The 2014 Pinnacle Awards, The Fairmont Royal York, Toronto. Tel: 416-447-0888 x236, email: talexandrou@ kostuchmedia.com; web-site: kostuchmedia.com

FOR MORE EVENTS, VISIT http://bit.ly/FHevents

Toronto’s Ink Entertainment and Oliver & Bonacini

Restaurants (O&B) have joined forces to breathe

new life into the Trump Hotel Toronto’s culinary

concepts. Replacing Stock restaurant and Suits Lobby

Lounge, the partners have unveiled America and The

Calvin Bar, with splashy new looks by Toronto’s II

by IV Design. Helmed by O&B chef Anthony Walsh,

America serves gourmet fare with regional flavours,

such as Foie Gras Buckwheat Flapjacks with peach

caramel and peanut marzipan ($27) and Slow-Cooked

Sockeye Salmon topped with guajillo chili, rancho

gordo legumes and corn smut ($40). It’s “like eat-

ing your way across Route 66 by way of private jet,”

describes Michael Bonacini, O&B co-founder and

partner. Meanwhile, The Calvin Bar offers high-end

bar snacks and creative twists on classic cocktails,

such as the Hazelnut Fashioned, made with Bulleit,

Frangelico liquor, dark caramel syrup and Angostura

bitters ($19).

WHITE HOT

What’s white, foamy and serves up a caffeinated kick? Second Cup’s

new Flat White espresso beverage. The chain’s leadership hosted an

all-white shindig last month during the Toronto International Film

Festival at its 289 King St. W. location to celebrate the Flat White

launch and announce more details about a company transformation. The

espresso-based coffee is handcrafted with a double shot of Second Cup’s rich

Espresso Forte, velvety steamed milk and a thin layer of micro-foam. The term

“Flat White” originated in Sydney, Australia in the mid-’80s and, since then, the coffee-forward beverage

has grown in popularity around the world. The beverage is now available in Second Cup stores across

Canada, and the team will be hitting select markets across the country, serving Flat Whites out of a bev-

erage truck. “It’s a good indication of the innovation and excellence that’s to come at Second Cup in the

future,” shared Alix Box, president and CEO at the Mississauga, Ont.-based Second Cup Ltd. “We’re on

an exciting journey of great transformation to restore this iconic Canadian specialty coffee company to

something really special, and Flat White is just the beginning.” Some of the rejuvenation efforts in the

near future include a new loyalty program as well as a “Store of the Future,” a revamped Second Cup

location, at 289 King St. W., designed by Toronto’s II by IV Design. — Jackie Sloat-Spencer

TRUMP GETS INKED

CHEFS HIT THE BIG APPLEEast Coast toques invaded the James

Beard House in New York in late

July to prepare a special “Tour of

the Eastern Provinces” themed din-

ner. (From left: Peter Dewar, Nova Scotia Community College, Kentville, N.S.; Adam Blanchard, Five Brothers Artisan Cheese, St. John’s, N.L.; Andrew Hodge, Holiday Inn St. John’s Government Centre Hotel, St. John’s, N.L.; Shaun Hussey, Chinched Bistro, St. John’s, N.L.; Roary MacPherson, Sheraton Hotel Newfoundland, St. John’s, N.L.; Roger Andrews, Relish Gourmet Burgers, St. John’s, N.L.; and Angie Ryan, Sheraton Hotel Newfoundland, St. John’s, N.L.)

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FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

FYI

IN BRIEFRestaurateur Frank Di Benedetto has purchased Surrey, B.C.-

based Abc Country Restaurants, which has more than 25 locations

across B.C. and Alberta...The management at Smoke ‘N’ Water has

scrapped the restaurant’s no-tipping policy. The casual-dining res-

taurant, which opened in Nanoose Bay, B.C. in May, paying servers

an hourly wage of $20 to $24, brought tips back to the table after

customers demanded the option...Vancouver-based White Spot has

opened a two-level, 8,200-sq.-ft. flagship location inside a 100-year-

old building in Vancouver, marking the 66th and largest full-service

restaurant in the chain...Pizza Nova, based in Toronto, has released

its new app for the iPhone and Android. Users can view the Pizza

Nova menu, locate a nearby store and save their favourite orders...

Executives from The Melting Pot are hoping to ignite a passion

for fondue in a new generation of Canadians. With one unit in

Edmonton, the Tampa, Fla.-based casual-dining leadership team is

actively seeking franchisees in Toronto and Mississauga, Ont., as well

as Vancouver and Calgary...Café Boulud and D Bar, located inside

Toronto’s Four Seasons Hotel, now produces food that supports the

Vancouver Aquarium’s Ocean Wise program, serving sustainable

seafood dishes such as potato-wrapped striped bass with pommes

purée, glazed leeks, watercress and sauce meurette ($39).

RESTO BUZZWhat’s been promoted as a trashy saloon has landed in historic Old Montreal, with the opening of The Jack Saloon Vieux-Montreal. Executive chef Dave Struggle Boudreau offers a menu of smoked meats and burgers, including barbecue ribs ($19 half-rack/$29 full-rack), and an Australian Mediterranean burger topped with grilled marinated beets, blueberry mayonnaise, basil and melted goat cheese (five ounce, $12.50/10-oz., $16)…Mahony & Sons has unveiled its third Irish public house at Stamps Landing in Vancouver, featuring 600 seats spread across two levels and four waterfront patios. Its centrepiece, a two-level back bar, combines traditional and contemporary Irish influences, while the kitchen serves casual comfort food with authentic Irish influences, including Irish Stew, featuring slow-simmered lamb shank and vegetables in Guinness demi-glaze with mashed potatoes and garlic toast ($21.95)…Vancouver’s new Lebanese eatery, Jamjar, ushers in an authentic dining experience with hot and cold “mezze” plates such as mint labneh ($9) and homemade lamb sausages ($9), with a complement of Mediterranean-spiced cocktails...Breakfast franchise Sunset Grill, based in Mississauga, Ont., opened its first unit outside Ontario in St. Albert, Alta. and unveiled a new location in downtown Toronto...Pizza Pizza added a new 16-seat restaurant at 13237 Yonge St. in Richmond Hill, Ont.

Opening a new restaurant? Let us in on the buzz. Send a high-res image, menu and background information about the new establishment to [email protected].

Mahony & Sons

SLIPS, TRIPS & FALLS ARE CANADA’S MOST FREQUENT ACCIDENTS

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Mark’s couldn’t ignore Canada’s leading cause of industrial injury and death. Over a decade of research has resulted in TARANTULA ANTISLIP® with JStep. Now featured in 17 styles of DAKOTA shoes—every style has been tested by SATRA, and confi rmed to provide better traction in wet, soapy and greasy conditions—taking safety, particularly in the hospitality, service and health industries, to a whole new level.

Exclusive to Mark’s, no one can make this revolutionary technology easier to implement for your company than the divison of Mark’s set up exclusively for business customers—Imagewear. Only we offer you more than 380 stores nationwide for sizing and pick-up, expert one-to-one advice, and fl exible programs designed to suit your business needs.

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FYI

PEOPLE Ken Otto resigned

as COO of

Boston Pizza in

September. A

replacement was

yet to be named

at press time...

Roger Matthews,

EVP and CFO

of Panera Bread Company, based in St.

Louis, Mo., has left the chain to pursue other

opportunities. Bill Moreton, executive vice-

chairman, has replaced him as interim CFO

until a replacement is named...Food Network

personality Corbin Tomaszeski has landed

at The Westin Harbour Castle in Toronto as the

hotel’s new executive

chef. He will craft fresh

and healthy dishes

for the hotel as part

of Stamford, Conn.-

based Westin hotels’

Well-Being Movement...Dale Colbran has signed on as the new director of Business

Development, Eastern Canada for the

Vancouver-based Browns Socialhouse as it

gears up to open its first location in Ontario

this month in Erin Mills.

SUPPLYSIDEBrad Willis has transitioned from his role

as CFO of Beverage-Air, a division of Ali

Group, to becoming CFO of Ali Group North America, based in Vernon Hills, Ill.

In his new role he will oversee financial

matters involved in the group’s companies

...Chicago-based Unilever Food Solutions has found a creative way to recommend Lipton Specialty Teas to its customers. It’s

rolling out new packaging that matches

teas to a consumer’s mood. The company

has also introduced two new teas, Green

Tea Açai & Blueberry as well as Green Tea

Cranberry Pomegranate…Six rare botan-

icals, including Nordic Juniper, Wild Rose

Hips and Labrador Tea, are used to make

the new Ungava Gin. Made in Frelighsburg,

Que., Ungava Gin is available in Quebec,

Ontario and Alberta...Niagara-on-the-Lake,

Ont.-based Diamond Estates launched two

new wines that salute the 100th anniversary

of the First World War: the 1914 Honour,

a crisp white wine; and 1914 Valour, a bold

red. In other beverage news, Niagara’s Small Talk Vineyards unveiled its new Shiny Apple

Cider, featuring a full apple complexity with

notes of pear and carmelized toffee apple…

Dare Foods Limited, based in Kitchener,

Ont., has introduced new peanut-free snacks,

including Dare Bear Paws Morning Snack

Wowbutter and Strawberries, and Bear Paws

Minis Chocolate Chip and Wowbutter...

Sheboygan, Wis.-based Vollrath has released

its 2014-15 Equipment and Smallwares

catalogue, featuring a new look with easy-

to-scan product guides and more product

pictures. It’s available at vollrath.com…

Canadian Linen, a Minnetonka, Minn.-based

uniform rental and linen-supply company, is

celebrating its 125th year in business.

Corbin Tomaszeski

Dale Colbran

Pickle Barrel Yonge Eglinton Centre Mackay Wong Strategic Design

YOUR HOSPITALITYBUILDING PARTNER416.755.2505 ext. 22bltconstruction.comToronto - Vancouver

Photography: David Whittaker

Pickle Barrel Yonge Eglinton Centre Mackay Wong Strategic Design

YOUR HOSPITALITYBUILDING PARTNER416.755.2505 ext. 22bltconstruction.comToronto - Vancouver

Photography: David Whittaker

14 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY SEPTEMBER 2014 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

NOW OPEN

Vikram Vij pumps up the volume at his shiny new restaurant, My Shanti

SPARKLEAND SHINE

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NOW OPEN

MY SHANTI STANDS OUT like a

sparkling diamond inside an otherwise

unassuming strip mall in South Surrey,

B.C. Covered from head to toe in shiny,

reflective surfaces, reminiscent of the

tiny, intricate mirrors sewn onto a sari,

My Shanti opens into a darker, more

Bollywood-esque 4,000-sq.-ft. dining

room and patio, with 88 seats inside

and 30 outside.

My Shanti, which translates to

“my peace,” is based on a culinary

story inspired by owner Vikram Vij’s

annual travels around India, visiting

various food stalls and executive chefs

across the country. He teamed with

Vancouver’s Bricault Design, which

designed his restaurants Vij’s and

Rangoli, to bring his vision to life.

The menu features palate-teasers

such as wild boar kebabs with south

Indian chutney, from Chhatra Sagar

($13.50); cauliflower with potatoes and

fenugreek leaves, from Delhi ($12.75);

and beef short ribs topped with saf-

fron coconut cream curry, from Calicut

($24.50). It also features boozy, spiced

cocktails, such as the Badam da

Naasha cocktail with vodka, almond

milk, saffron water, cardamom and

pistachio ($8). — Jackie Sloat-Spencer

FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER 2014 15

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The September instalment of this col-

umn provided a window into what

the quick-service restaurant (QSR)

landscape is expected to look like in 2020,

according to key findings from NPD’s

report “Vision 2020: The Future of QSR in

Canada.” Last month’s column examined

the report’s findings that increased compe-

tition and ethnic influences will shape the

landscape in 2020. This month it’s time to

examine convenience and snacking trends.

CONVENIENCE WILL BE KINGThe 2020 restaurant market will be driven

by convenience. Today, 58 per cent of res-

taurant meals occur off-premise via drive-

thru, delivery or take-out. The growth of

off-premise restaurant meals has increased

five per cent annually during the past five

years, with no indication consumers will

temper their desire for quick, convenient

restaurant meal solutions. And, as the econ-

omy strengthens, and the unemployment

rate drops, daily pressures will continue to

support the need for convenient meals. As a

result, off-premise customer traffic at QSR is

forecast to grow by 10 per cent up to the year

2020. Unfortunately not all QSR segments

will be part of the off-premise growth.

Ironically, quick-service pizza units — the

segment that relies the most on off-premise

traffic — appears to be falling out of favour

with consumers due to innovative retail fro-

zen pizza and the lack of menu innovation

from quick-service pizza operators. The net

effect will be a decline in customer traffic of

three per cent running up to 2020.

SNACKING IS ON THE RISEThe snacking dayparts, defined as the meal

occasions after breakfast and before lunch

(a.m. snack) as well as after lunch and before

dinner (p.m. snack), are poised for strong

growth during the next five years. The a.m.

snacking daypart is forecast to experience

increased customer traffic by 13 per cent up

to 2020. The growth drivers of a.m. snacking

are primarily a result of the generation fol-

lowing millennials. Post-millennials (aged

zero to 19), who have grown up integrat-

ing restaurant meals into their daily rou-

tine, will gravitate to quick-service coffee

houses, upscale burger restaurants and the

fast-casual segment for decadent caffeinated

beverages, indulgent baked goods and inno-

vative snack items. The afternoon snacking

daypart is also expected to become popular

at QSR. This time will be popular among

boomers seeking a daily social, treat-based

occasion. As a result, customer traffic at the

p.m. snacking daypart is forecast to grow

seven per cent leading up to 2020.

THE RESPONSEEasy-to-prepare, portable menu items —

such as sandwiches, specialty beverages as

well as in-home meal solutions from an

outside source — will be popular in the next

five years, driven by the growth of off-prem-

ise restaurant occasions. Similarly, baked

goods and innovative snacks are expected

to grow in popularity, too. QSR operators

should consider both trends when deter-

mining menu strategies in what’s predicted

to be an otherwise flat market in the years

leading to 2020. l

Robert Carter is executive director, Foodservice Canada, with the NPD Group Inc.

He can be reached at [email protected] for questions regarding the latest trends

and their impact on the foodservice business.

VISION 2020: TAKE TWOThe second instalment of a two-part examination into the next seven years in the quick-service restaurant industry

Youngest Generations to Drive Industry Growth Leading to 2020

FROM THE DESK OF ROBERT CARTER

Gen X, younger and older boomers and mature traditionalists will influence foodservice eating trends less as their populations shrink and many of them become empty nesters and retire.

+9%

POST-MILLENNIALS0 to 19

+7%

BACK-END MILLENNIALS20 to 29

+9%

FRONT-END MILLENNIALS30 to 39

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18 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER 2014

CHEFS DISH UP SWEET NOSTALGIA WITH CLASSIC, COMFORTING DESSERTS

BY LINDSAY FORSEY

Childhood memories are sweet, especially when they involve dessert. Maybe you remember

grandma’s butter tart, with its perfectly runny filling baked in a flaky pastry cup; mom’s apple pie, spiced with cinnamon; or the sound of the

ice-cream truck bell ringing on summer afternoons. More than just pleasant recollections,

those candy-coated flashbacks are influencing dessert menus in Canadian restaurants,

from fine-dining to casual fare.

THE CHERRY ON TOP

SWEET INDULGENCEThe butter tart at Toronto’s Canoe restaurant feeds into the customer’s desire for desserts inspired by classics from their childhood


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Comfort foods, deconstructed classic des-

serts and artisanal ice cream are a few of the

top trends listed in the “Restaurants Canada

2014 Chef Survey,” conducted by Toronto

market research firm BrandSpark and based

on responses from more than 400 profes-

sional chefs across the country. The icing

on the cake? People are most willing to pay

more for made-from-scratch desserts tied

to quality and nostalgia, according to “The

Canadian Dessert Consumer Trend Report

2013,” published by Chicago-based research

firm Technomic. Plus, nearly 40 per cent of

consumers surveyed are seeking the desserts

they enjoyed as children.

“People are embracing rustic baking and

warming comfort food that is meant to be

shared,” confirms Andrew Winfield, execu-

tive chef at Calgary’s River Café. “A great

dessert evokes a memory. Our version of a

s’more, for example, reminds people of sit-

ting around a campfire roasting marshmal-

lows.” The Wood-Fired Oven Kahlua-and-

Espresso S’more ($3) is made with organic

FOOD FILE

MADE WITH CARE Rustic sweets made with wholesome ingredients are key trends on today’s dessert menus with dishes such as the Sugar Pumpkin Pudding Cake at Calgary’s River Café and Callebaut Chocolate doughnuts from Calgary-based Jelly Modern Doughnuts, where the treats are made from scratch

INGREDIENT OF THE MONTH: SEA BUCKTHORN BERRYThis sunny-coloured berry packed with pro-

tein, fibre, antioxidants, vitamins and miner-

als is popping up on restaurant menus.

Touted as a powerful superfood, the tiny

fruit originated in the Himalayas but is now

grown all over the world, including Canada.

Sea buckthorn berry is tart when eaten raw,

so it’s usually cooked down into jams and

syrups. “It brings a tropical acidity, similar

to passion fruit or sour pineapple and

an orangey-yellow colour,” says Anthony

Walsh, corporate executive chef at Toronto’s

Oliver and Bonacini Restaurants (O&B).

O&B sources its sea buckthorn berries from

Quebec and uses them to make stuffed

doughnuts at its Bannock location as well

as custards and other desserts.

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FOOD FILE

dark chocolate and a hand-crafted graham

cookie. All desserts are made in-house at

River Café, including the dozen-or-so

ice creams and sorbets ($10) on offer,

featuring flavours such as maple corn and

anise hyssop.

Winfield describes his customers as

knowledgeable foodies seeking well-rounded

meals and often this means saving room in

their stomachs, and their wallets, for dessert.

“When a dessert is made from scratch using

local, in-season ingredients, people feel good

about indulging,” he says. River’s bestsell-

ing desserts include anything chocolate and

all things salted caramel, reflecting another

prominent trend noted in the “2014 Chef

Survey.” The Maple Wild Rice Pudding ($11)

with huckleberry compote and citrus lace

cookies is a signature favourite, as is the sea-

sonal Warm Pumpkin Sticky Toffee Pudding

($11), on the menu throughout fall and win-

ter and served with spiced crème fraiche.

“We source local wild rice from northern

Alberta and infuse the pudding with maple

syrup, cinnamon, star anise and vanilla,”

Winfield says. Diners anticipate these belly-

warming delights. “We encourage a well-

balanced enjoyment of dinner, including

something sweet. It’s good to remind people

about dessert before the end of the meal,”

he says. River Café’s dessert prices have

increased only slightly over the past 15 years,

from an average of $8 to $10 up to an aver-

age of $10 to $11. “I think prices are due for

a more significant increase. The dishes are

profitable, but many of the products we use

are pricey,” he says. “We make sure the sales

are there to make it work.”

While desserts aren’t the most profitable

menu items, they are essential. At Toronto-

based Oliver & Bonacini Restaurants (O&B),

the last bites of a meal are never an after-

thought. “Understanding the importance

of the whole meal is huge,” says Anthony

Walsh, the O&B corporate executive chef,

who oversees the menus at the company’s 12

restaurants, which range from casual cafés to

top fine-dining establishments. “Costs have

come up over the past few years. The days of

the $7 dessert are gone, and you’re not going

to make a ton of money on it, but dessert is

the happy ending to a great experience, and

we bust our humps to make that happen.”

Over the past few years some O&B restau-

rants have been leveraging sales by offering

a selection of teeny desserts, such as a two-

tablespoon-sized crème brûlée or a cheese-

cake lollipop. “Small-portion desserts are

not as indulgent as having the giant slice of

molten chocolate cake,” Walsh says. “A lot of

people want just a small treat at the end of

their meals.” Tiny desserts aside, other popu-

lar O&B sweets include Jump Restaurant’s

Artisan White Chocolate Cheesecake ($9),

double-baked in phyllo pastry with biscotti

JUST A TASTE Big chunky slices of cake are being balanced with smaller portion options on Canadian dessert menus, such as the stuffed doughnuts at Vaughan, Ont.-based Swiss Chalet and the smaller Chocolate Tort at Toronto’s Canoe restaurant


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WHEN A DESSERT IS MADE FROM SCRATCH USING LOCAL, IN-SEASON INGREDIENTS, PEOPLE FEEL GOOD ABOUT INDULGING

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FOOD FILE

crust and its Chocolate Layer Cake ($9), a

decadent wedge made for two, served with

icy-cold milk.

O&B desserts are made in-house at

individual restaurants or supplied by the

company’s bakery (not open to the public).

It churns out take-away items, such as cook-

ies, for the company’s more casual eateries

and handles all off-site catering. “We’ve been

operating our bakery for four-and-a-half

years now. It’s incredible to have complete

control over production,” says Walsh, who

is tuned in to the trend toward nostalgic

desserts. “Customers are looking for tried-

and-true classics, like pies and cobblers.

The approachability factor is big right now,”

he says.

Incorporating hearty grains, such as

kamut, buckwheat, millet and amaranth

into desserts is another trend noted on the

“2014 Chef Survey,” as well as at O&B. “We

always have customer welfare in mind, but

we aren’t necessarily including more grains

for health reasons. It’s more about exploring

flavours and textures,” Walsh says. “Dessert

has to have elements of fun, naughtiness and

inventiveness. It’s about those curious people

in the back who create stuff that makes

people smile.”

One of those folks in the back is Robert

Gonsalves, the pastry chef at O&B’s upscale

Canoe, who is creating a fall dessert made

with rye and apples and something new for

the Chef ’s Menu using balsam fir. Canoe’s

most popular desserts include its Chocolate

Torte and Classic Canoe Butter Tart ($12

each). “A good dessert is about balance,” he

says. “You want something that is rich and

acidic and texturally interesting.”

The trend toward familiar desserts is

apparent across foodservice segments. At

Swiss Chalet Rotisserie and Grill, a Vaughan,

Ont.-based Cara Operations’ brand, the des-

sert menu is focused on pie and ice cream.

“Dessert has to fit with our vision of offering

uncomplicated comfort food done right. It

should bring you to a place of good memo-

ries,” says Lindsay Robinson, Swiss Chalet’s

director of Marketing. The brand makes

some desserts in-house, while others are

sourced from unnamed suppliers. Robinson

explains that shareable items are popular

SUPPLYSIDE INNOVATIONS

Chef Pierre LUXE LAYERS PIES

from Peoria, Ill.-based Sara Lee

combine gourmet recipes with

familiar flavours: two fillings in

two crusts, such as blueberry

with lemon meringue. Pies are

pre-sliced to reduce waste and

cut costs. Thaw and serve.

VEGAN CAKES from Chicago’s

Eli’s Cheesecake Company are

made with silken tofu to create

a creamy rendition of a classic.

Available in Belgian Chocolate

Cheesecake and Carrot Cake

Cheesecake flavours.

INDIVIDUAL CAKES from

Reading, Pa.-based Sweet

Street Desserts include trendy

flavours such as Yuzu Lime

Cheesecake and Salted Caramel

Cheesecake, offering a new take

on tradition. Small, circular serv-

ings replace the typical slice.

THE GLUTEN-FREE LINE

from Vancouver’s Trumps Fine

Food Merchants includes cup-

cakes and cookies, plus a

classic lemon bar, hazelnut

tartlet and more.

ON TREND Calgary-based Jelly Modern Doughnut’s Maple Bacon variety highlights two key Canadian dessert trends — doughnuts and bacon

FOOD FILE

choices: “Gone are the days of heavy, deca-

dent desserts for one person,” she says.

The trend towards smaller indulgences

is also influenced by cost. According to

Technomic’s report, dessert remains a

price-sensitive add-on where affordability

and value are key purchase drivers at both

limited- and full-service restaurants. Swiss

Chalet’s bestselling dessert — its signature

stuffed doughnuts ($6 to $7) — hits the

spot for both portion size and price point.

“Guests want the indulgence, just less of it,”

Robinson says. “They also want something

they wouldn’t necessarily make at home.”

During the past few years, doughnuts

have experienced a revival, appearing on

restaurant menus and inspiring new busi-

nesses dedicated to the old-fashioned

treat. Calgary’s Jelly Modern Doughnuts,

co-owned by siblings Rita and Rosanne

Tripathy, opened its first location in April

2011. Since then, the brand, applauded by

Martha Stewart and Oprah Winfrey, has

launched a food truck in Calgary and a

shop in Toronto as well as kiosks inside

Pusateri’s, Toronto-based gourmet food

shops. Jelly will open another location in

Toronto’s financial district this fall with

plans to hit Vancouver next.

The doughnut-centric operation is

capitalizing on trends towards bite-sized

portions, wholesome ingredients, budget-

friendly choices and traditional feel-good

indulgences. Jelly offers a three-bite dough-

nut ($2.25) and a regular-sized rendition

($2.75) with flavours such as Classic Jelly,

Callebaut Chocolate and Maple Bacon

rounding out the bestsellers list. (Bacon is

yet another dessert trend noted on the “2014

Chef Survey.”) The monthly feature dough-

nut has included the London Fog, with a

chai tea-infused glaze, whipped cream and

sprinkles, and the Cherry Cobbler, stuffed

with cherry pie filling, then topped with cin-

namon and streusel.

Jelly has introduced more than 150 vari-

eties since opening. “There’s so much you

can do with a doughnut,” says head pastry

chef, Atul Palghadmal, who stresses that the

doughnuts are made from scratch, contain

no additives or preservatives and include

local, seasonal ingredients when possible.

“People have a love-hate relationship with

the doughnut,” he says. “They don’t see it as

a healthy option, but it’s such a good sweet.”

Catering and events make up a significant

portion of Jelly’s business, with corporate

clients ordering customized flavours, brides

choosing something more whimsical than

cake and parents spoiling kids on birthdays.

“Jelly doughnuts are something you can

display on a dessert table and really make

a beautiful impression,” Palghadmal says.

“That’s not something you could always say

about doughnuts.” With more than 8,000

Twitter followers, Jelly’s success proves that

the doughnut remains a sought-after sweet.

Twenty years from now, people will still

get that warm, fuzzy feeling reminiscing

about the chewy, circular delight, albeit with

a more modern twist than the Hawaiian

Sprinkle of days past. l


MARK MCEWAN used to avoid

the restaurants at Canada’s busiest airport.

“Pearson was always famous for no food to

really bad food. I barely ate there,” says the

Top Chef Canada judge, whose restaurant

assets in Toronto include North 44, Bymark

and Fabbrica.

McEwan is a major player in a gambit by

the not-for-profit Greater Toronto Airports

Authority (GTAA), which manages, operates

and maintains Toronto Pearson International

Airport and is retooling its foodservice land-

scape. With consulting on two concepts, the

Fetta Panini Bar and Nobel Burger Bar under

his belt, one of McEwan’s hurdles is to alter

dismally low expectations. There are signs of

a shift. “We did $20,000 in sales one day at

Nobel. This is at a burger bar in an airport.

It’s remarkable.”

As part of the GTAA’s phased upgrade,

McEwan’s company also offers catering ser-

vices, preparing and delivering up to 2,500

food units (think salads, sandwiches) to 10

restaurants managed by the New York-based

OTG, one of three primary foodservice

Since 2011, almost 30 food and beverage units have been added or redeveloped at Canada’s largest airport. Will the changes make Toronto Pearson International Airport a world-class food hub? BY IAN HARRISON

PROFILE


YYZ FOODFLIGHT PLAN

NEW CHOICES The Toronto Pearson International Airport foodservice regenera-tion includes options for eating on the go and options for more leisurely meals at restaurants such as (clockwise from top) Mill St. Brewery, Boccone Pronto, Heirloom Bakery Café, Nobel Burger Bar, Marathi and the Fetta Panini Bar

1. VISIT FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

2. CLICK ON THE SUBSCRIPTION BUTTON

3. COMPLETE INFORMATION REQUIRED ON THE ONLINE FORM

Subscribe Online IT’S EASY AS 1,2,3

SubscribeOnline.indd 1 2014-09-16 10:42 AM

PROFILE


operators at Pearson. The end result is a

new spinoff, of sorts, for the Toronto-based

McEwan Group. “It’s [like] a new business,”

begins McEwan, explaining how the com-

pany’s duties at the airport expand beyond

foodservice to include navigating customs,

expediting, packaging, labelling, costing

out, compartmentalizing units and creating

retail goods.

OTG, the firm that recruited McEwan

— and others such as chef Rocco Agostino,

sommelier John Szabo and baker Devin

Connell — is a relative upstart in the sud-

denly sexy airport foodservices space, hav-

ing forged chef partnerships at New York’s

LaGuardia and JFK. Rick Blatstein, CEO, is

a former restaurant and nightclub owner

who asserts that his company delivers

“restaurants inside airports,” rather than

airport restaurants. And, OTG claims its

close to $11 per patron spend leads the

industry in North America.

The chef-driven approach is deliberate.

“We believe we can have great restaurants

in airports,” explains Sean Aziz, director

of Communications, OTG. “We work with

chefs who understand their market. That

insight allows us to create concepts that

are relevant.”

The OTG blueprint seems radical on the

surface: upcycle wasteful terminal space into

a profit generator with whiz-bang designs

and Wi-Fi-enabled iPads, which display

menus in 20 different languages and allow

customers to order a glass of Pinot Noir

with the swipe of a finger.

The suggestion that airports can, and

should, serve good food evokes a bygone

age when some of the best restaurants in

EASY AND CONVENIENT Three operators — New York’s OTG, Bethesda, Md.’s HMSHost and Surrey, U.K.’s SSP — are overseeing the new foodservice options at the Toronto Pearson International Airport. The OTG plan includes Wi-Fi-enabled iPads, which dis-play menus in 20 different languages, at restaurants such as Marathi (above)

SECURITY CHECKIt’s not just passengers who require a

stringent security check at the airport.

Moving food in and out of Toronto

Pearson International Airport also

involves following many regulations

and procedures. “There is no ques-

tion the movement of goods into the

airport is different and in many ways

more challenging than a traditional res-

taurant would encounter,” says Janine

Gervais, the associate director of the

Retail and Food Programs at the not-for-

profit Greater Toronto Airports Authority

(GTAA), which manages, operates and

maintains Pearson. “The GTAA has a

comprehensive logistics program to

facilitate the movement of goods at our

airport. We have a centralized Logistics

Centre (LC) that receives all items des-

tined for our stores and restaurants. Our

processes are strictly regulated from a

safety-and-security perspective — all

suppliers must be vetted and all items

are kept in a strict chain of custody.

Goods are received at the LC, screened,

packed and then moved to tenant kitch-

ens, storage rooms, warehouses and

eventually on to our passengers’ plates.”

Last year, more than 500 industry executives came together in December to celebrate excellence.

This year, on Dec. 5, at Toronto’s Fairmont Royal York Hotel, Rosanna Caira and the KML team will host the 26th Annual Pinnacle Awards, bringing together leaders from a wide spectrum of sectors in the foodservice and hospitality industry to celebrate achievement. Awards will be presented in five categories for Foodservice and Hospitality including (Company of the Year, Western Canada; Company of the Year, Eastern Canada; Independent Restaurateur; Chef of the Year; and Supplier of the Year) and four categories for Hotelier (Company of the Year, National and Regional; Hotelier of the Year; and Supplier of the Year). Additionally, KML will also be presenting the newly minted “Rosanna Caira Lifetime Achievement Award” to a shining industry luminary.

THE 26th ANNUAL PINNACLE AWARDSWHERE THE INDUSTRY COMES TOGETHER TO CELEBRATE EXCELLENCE

HOSTED BY

DEC. 5, 2014

THE FAIRMONT ROYAL YORK

RECEPTION AT 11:00 a.m. FOLLOWED BY LUNCH AND AWARDS

PRESENTATION

26

Rosanna CairaKostuch Media Limited

Michael Bonacini O&B Restaurants

PinnacleAwards_SP.indd 1 2014-08-19 2:42 PM


the U.S. were in the likes of Chicago O’Hare

and LAX. “Good food enhances the cus-

tomer experience,” declares Janine Gervais,

the associate director of the Retail and Food

Programs at the GTAA. “In 2010 we took

a long hard look at the retail and foodser-

vices landscape at Pearson. It was lacklustre.

So we set out to define a strategy to make

the airport a premier gateway.” In the final

analysis, no single airport served as a pro-

totype for Pearson. Gervais contends that

it was a matter of tailoring best practices to

the Toronto market.

The decision to take those culinary ideas

to the airport’s two Terminals (1 and 3)

led to a new partnership with OTG and a

reboot with two veteran primary operators.

“HMSHost and SSP [Canada] have been

with us for decades,” explains Gervais, of

the companies based in Bethesda, Md. and

Surrey, U.K., respectively. “They’ve evolved.

The GTAA’s decision to continue with them

was based on sitting down and talking

about where we wanted to go, where they

were at that point in the contract and then

working to deliver the vision together.”

The GTAA’s primary goal was to generate

more energy and buzz for the airport’s res-

taurants. HMSHost, OTG and SSP led the

charge to identify key local chefs.

The entire Pearson foodservice upgrade,

which began in 2011, and is slated to con-

tinue into 2016, already features almost 30

new restaurants, representing all segments.

Just to get a taste of what’s on offer, there’s

Acer, a modern Japanese restaurant by

chef Guy Rubino and from OTG; Boccone

Trattoria Veloce, a trattoria and Boccone

Pronto, its quick-serve counterpart from

SSP Canada in partnership with chef

Massimo Capra; and Asian Kitchen by

Susur Lee, a new addition from HMSHost

this summer.

HMSHost, with a foothold in more than

100 airports around the globe, and annual

sales in excess of $2.7 billion, had an exist-

ing partnership with Roger Mooking. So,

the TV host and cookbook author consulted

on menu improvements and helped with

enlistment. One of the first calls was to the

founder of Caplansky’s Delicatessen.

The deli’s owner, Zane Caplansky, and

HMSHost expect the two Caplansky’s

TRIED AND TRUE Customer favourites such as Starbucks Coffee and Toronto’s popular Caplansky’s Delicatessen (below) combine with newer options such as Camden Food Co. and Corso to create buzz for the food at Toronto Pearson International Airport as part of a redevelopment plan that will con-tinue into 2016

PROFILE

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• Daily news. Visit the website each day for breaking news, new data and analysis, and new product information.

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Delis at Pearson — the first of which

opened this summer — to do four times the

volume as the original College Street loca-

tion in Toronto. “I had wanted to look at

franchising and growing my business. This

is an ideal environment,” says Caplansky.

“HMSHost is an incredible international

franchisee. Some of the biggest brands trust

them, and we have a built-in market at the

airport. It was a wonderful win-win oppor-

tunity. We’re making the vast majority of

the food the same as on College Street.

The pricing is the same as well.”

The HMSHost executive behind the

Pearson partnerships with Caplansky and

other big names such as Lynn Crawford,

Susur Lee, Mohammed Fakih and John

Placko is Karen Grezner. The company’s

director of Restaurant Portfolio notes

that it requires effort and persistence to

convince high-profile chefs to license their

names. Natural concerns about quality

dilution, procurement, supply-chain

management and personnel require

immediate assuagement.

“None of [the chefs HMSHost enlisted]

were promoting their restaurants to be

franchised and run by someone else,” notes

Grezner. “And here I am saying we want

to license their brand at Pearson. It’s like

letting go of their baby. So there is trepida-

tion. They have to have the confidence that

it’s not just fast-food we’re doing and that

behind the scenes we have a full kitchen

with real chefs and a real level of skill —

because every one of them has their name

on the door and on the menus.”

And, while the approximately dozen

chef consultants involved in the Pearson

revamp will confront similar concerns, not

all will be as hands-on as Caplansky. And

that concerns prominent food writers in

Canada, such as Toronto restaurant critic

Chris Nutall-Smith. After several visits to

the airport, The Globe and Mail columnist

reserved his harshest criticism for OTG.

“The initial promise from OTG was enor-

mous. A year later I went and the chef ’s

faces and names were nowhere to be found.

There are no real kitchens, because the ter-

minal’s ceilings are so high, the company

couldn’t install commercial exhaust systems.

The prices are high, and the iPad ordering

system is awful. They try to upsell you every

time. You quickly realize the iPads are there,

because they don’t want to hire staff.”

OTG has responded to those concerns.

“The traditional restaurant environment

is inefficient at airports, where time-man-

agement is everything,” says OTG’s Aziz.

He adds: “The potential lack of human

interaction was a major question we had

[with the iPad deployment]. But it’s been

the opposite.”

Most pointed, however, was this com-

ment from a Nuttall-Smith column in

March: “Two years ago, OTG management’s

Michael Coury told me: ‘Some of your best

restaurants downtown will now be in your

airport.’ From what I tasted and experi-

enced, that is not yet even close to being

the case.”

“We respect all feedback,” responds Aziz.

“The great thing about our concepts is that,

because we own and operate our restau-

rants, we can make changes on the fly.”

How deeply star chefs dig in at Pearson

may be a key factor in whether critics, and

customers, embrace the airport’s metamor-

phosis. “Each operator comes at it differ-

ently,” says the GTAA’s Gervais. “OTG hires

chefs to design menus. With SSP, a chef like

Massimo Capra is here very often. I person-

ally have seen him on the line. As far as the

new restaurants from HMSHost chefs, like

Lynn Crawford and Susur Lee, we’ll see how

they evolve.”

Overall, although the cost of the entire

Pearson revitalization hasn’t been disclosed,

Gervais is optimistic the foodservice turn-

about will be a success. “Toronto Pearson

has seen a 26-per-cent increase in sales

across the board and a 15-per-cent to

63-per-cent increase in the actual number

of guest transactions per new or redevel-

oped retail location. I am very pleased with

the evolution of our program. The opportu-

nity to enjoy a meal at an Italian restaurant

with nice wine, or conversely, enjoy Subway

or A&W is wonderful and demonstrates

variety and diversity. And we’re just 60 per

cent of the way there. Most of Terminal 3

will be redeveloped over the next year. By

the time we hit 100 per cent of program

turnover, lease renewals will start to come

up and we will be working to reinvent our

program to meet the needs of the next gen-

eration of passengers.” l

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SEGMENT REPORT

Healthfulness, local food, innovation and value are a

few factors powerfully influencing the non-tradition-

al foodservice segment today. But while the trends

reflect traditional foodservice, this landscape suffers

the unique burden of fiscal restraints that impose a

limit on its expansion and innovation.

With descriptors such as “variously institutional,” “commercial”

and “near-to-home,” the non-traditional foodservice market pro-

vides service to a range of institutions. From university and col-

lege campuses, to hospitals, nursing homes, retirement homes and

workplace cafeterias, this category is a collection of establishments

where food is served to large groups of people who often eat many

of their meals in one institution.

Non-traditional segment caterers are finding new ways to serve a unique demographicBY LAURA PRATT

ADAPTING TO CHANGE

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KNOW THY CUSTOMERWhile a restaurant is a “special-occasion place,” the non-traditional

category caters to a market whose customers are fed daily. “[So]

the biggest thing with this segment is an interest in healthy food

choices,” says Sandra Matheson, president of Oakville, Ont.-based

Food Systems Consulting Inc., which consults for traditional and

non-traditional foodservice clients, including universities, hospitals

and government agencies. “People are paying more attention to having

vegetables, fresh ingredients, protein, reasonable portion sizes.”

Proximity to other people is important in this foodservice environ-

ment, too. In fact, some new seniors’ supportive housing projects are

being built with “tea kitchens” only — limited-cooking environments

that encourage residents to go to the dining room and partake in on-

site social offerings.

Many retirement communities also feature food clubs, where a

movie night showing of The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel, for example,

might be complemented by the culinary accompaniment of an Indian

meal. “That tells us that the social aspect of eating has become much

more evident,” Matheson says. “People are understanding that, living

alone, they need to seek out social encounters, and one of the best

times to do that is mealtime.”

Meanwhile, mealtime is often in flux in non-traditional foodser-

vice. “People are always eating,” Matheson says. “So one of the chal-

lenges for operators is to have things available throughout the day.”

Thankfully, an interest in raw, cold and hand-held foods has heralded

the replacement of salad bars with “cold bars” featuring vegetables,

dips and ethnic breads that can be left out for long periods of time.

CONSIDER COSTSBut before food can be served at institutions, managers must first con-

sider capital investments and operating costs. These financial realities

have led to dynamic changes within the industry, says Barry Telford,

SVP Healthcare & Education at Sodexo, an international service

provider whose Canadian headquarters are in Burlington, Ont. Such

changes include the trend towards re-thermalization. In other words,

a product is prepared off-site at a facility that produces food and sent

to an institution in a refrigerated or frozen state to be reheated for

multiple end users.

This approach requires fewer staff and less kitchen space; instead,

all the establishment in question requires is equipment to reheat food.

The process leverages savings through purchasing and larger produc-

tion runs. “There are real upsides to this,” says Telford. “The hospital

doesn’t have the same operational cost structures or the same focus on

labour it did before.”

SEGMENT REPORT

BEHIND THE SCENESFrom feeding hordes of

hungry college students, to

catering corporate events

and prepping healthy meals

inside hospital cafeterias,

contract caterers do it all.

Last year, Canada’s top-five

contract-caterers amassed

nearly $3.4 billion in sales.

Compass Group Canada

2,508 units

$1.8 billion

Aramark Canada Ltd.

1,550 units

$994 million

Sodexo Canada Ltd.

500+ units

*$546 million

Dana Hospitality Inc.

92 units

$37 million

Marek Hospitality Inc.

19 units

$16 million

*Denotes estimate

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Such practices are necessary, says Matheson, considering that the

cost of food has been on the rise since 2008, with a spike in the last

year or two. More than that, in Ontario, for example, the minimum

wage hike in June, from $10.25 to $11 an hour, is being felt down the

line. “When minimum wage goes up, everything else goes up, too,”

says Matheson, explaining that it’s especially hard for her company’s

clients, who aim to offer at least $1 more than minimum wage to

attract workers.

Add the $7 or $8 per-patient cost for daily meals in most health-

care institutions, says Beth Hunter, program director at the Montreal-

based J.W. McConnell Family Foundation, and you’ve got lots of

expenses and not many ways to raise money within the health-care

realm for the adoption of local and sustainable fare. “Food is not

considered an important central tool to building health, so it’s not a

core cost that you can fundraise for,” explains Hunter of the non-profit

that builds communities to develop people’s potential and contribute

to the common good.

“Funding for hospital food is very limited,” agrees Sharon

McDonald, president of Compass Group Canada Healthcare in

Mississauga, Ont. At Morrison, the arm of Compass that provides

hospital-based patient-feeding and retail and support-service busi-

ness, the solution has been the introduction of Steamplicity, which

replaces cold-plate retherm. “We’ve had challenges with this technol-

ogy in terms of patient satisfaction and quality deterioration,” admits

McDonald of the process wherein food is fresh-plated, sealed and

cooked under steam pressure. But the program offers a lot of efficien-

cies, too. “[It’s] the healthiest way to cook food in terms of retaining

the nutrients,” McDonald says. More than that, the Steamplicity

system — which has been installed in 13 hospitals across Ontario

— requires little equipment, it offers environmental savings by using

less water and fuel than conventional food-prep systems, and it has

significantly reduced food waste.

CREATE CHANGEUniversities and colleges are leading the charge in providing local,

sustainable food. And their efforts, combined with those of local-food

advocates such as chef/restaurateur Jamie Oliver, have influenced con-

sumers who now demand better options. In turn, distributors have

responded with enhanced relationships with produce suppliers and

increased fresh and local offerings.

Still, says J.W. McConnell’s Hunter, enacting change in big institu-

tions can be hard. In some cases, she says, the dietitians and food sup-

pliers are the barriers to transformation. “They’re used to working a

SEGMENT REPORT

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certain way, and making a shift means taking more time and changing

practices that may be entrenched.” She points to local sourcing done

by institutions such as the University of Winnipeg, the University of

British Columbia in Vancouver, Dalhousie University in Halifax and

Scarborough Hospital in Ontario as the exceptions. “We need these

champions,” she says. “We want to take this to another level by better

communicating what’s possible.”

The alternative is untenable since the sustainability of the food

system is a critical issue. “We’re working to get more healthy, local and

sustainable food into institutions and into supply chains. One benefit

of local food is that it cuts down on the transportation impact of how

far food travels,” Hunter adds.

The J.W. McConnell Family Foundation is further inciting change

with this year’s implementation of its Institutional Food Program. The

idea is to promote the inclusion of more local, sustainable foods in

institutional settings such as hospitals, long-term care centres, schools

and universities.

The organization received 20 funding applications for the program

and selected eight to support. Each will receive up to $75,000 per grant

and join J.W. McConnell’s learning collaboration training program.

Quebec’s Centre de Santé et Service Sociaux (CSSS) des Sommets is

one recipient. It will use the funds to provide local, sustainable food to

the cafeterias, patient meals and vending machines of three long-term

care facilities and a hospital.

In partnership with Montreal’s Food Secure Canada, the coun-

try’s national voice for the food movement, the Institutional Food

Program will walk participants through the transition to procuring

more healthy, local, sustainable food. Like-minded individuals from

institutions who have led such change will offer insights into how

they improved their menus to prioritize local food; how they track

supply-side changes; and the role of institutional culture and personal

relationships in making change.

Meanwhile, Sodexo’s new Expressly for You program shows how

life-sustaining nutrition can also lead to meaningful interactions. The

initiative includes the ordering of raw ingredients from approved, ide-

ally local, suppliers and chefs — either Sodexo-supplied or hospital

employees under Sodexo’s management — and preparing meals from

scratch in clients’ on-site kitchens. Patients order meals such as turkey

meatloaf or tomato and potato frittata from a bedside hostess who

visits nine times daily. “Through those interactions, you get to know

the patient, so there’s good relationship-building, social interaction

and good, nutritious food. It’s a great combination,” explains Telford.

Greg Lawrie, RVP for Aramark’s health-care line of business

in Canada, agrees that social interaction is a big part of the non-

traditional health-care foodservice picture. He explains: “We wanted

to find a way to more personally connect with our customers at the

moment of truth — when they’re deciding what to have for a meal.”

That wish evolved into the “spoken menu program,” a process where-

by a foodservice team member visits the customer to take his order.

“The menu itself didn’t change,” Lawrie clarifies. “Nor did the way we

procured, prepared or delivered the food; just the way we interacted

with the customer. Patients went from minimal control to [getting]

the opportunity to ask questions and have a real discussion about their

experience with foodservice staff at the moment of their meal deci-

sion.” After the change, patients expressed increased satisfaction with

the overall experience, rating variety, taste, presentation and quality

higher by between 12 and 17 per cent.

Of course, the food itself is important, too. “The top priority for

foodservice in health-care environments is to contribute to a cus-

tomer’s overall health and recovery, and the meals are essentially a

part of their care,” says Lawrie. It’s why Aramark’s menu options build

on the nutritional recommendations and special diets implemented

by the doctors and nutritionists, before the issues of presentation and

flavour are addressed. For example, a typical Aramark meal might be a

baked salmon loin with lemon dill sauce or a lemon wedge and a side

garden or caesar salad.

J.W. McConnell’s Hunter also places value on food’s healing prop-

erties. “Whether it’s schools where the food the kids eat is impactful on

their development or long-term centres and hospitals where the food

people eat when they’re sick or older is important, today we need to

[look at food] as a preventative,” she says. “Non-traditional foodser-

vice today is so much more than just one more dinner.” l

SEGMENT REPORT


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THE BAR IS OPENFrom Toronto’s Jen Agg and Halifax’s Jenner Cormier to Quebec’s Véronique Rivest, today’s bartenders and sommeliers are creating their own rules

BY JENNIFER FEBBRARO

The word “foodie” has

been added to the dic-

tionary. But there doesn’t

seem to be an equivalent term

for someone who is interested

in the creation and consump-

tion of alcoholic drinks — think

bartenders, mixologists, somme-

liers and their customers. This

comes at a time when Canada’s

award-winning bartenders and

sommeliers are being hired for

their creativity and innovation,

their ability to translate a mood

with a single sip and their well-

attuned sense of smell. Three

such individuals sat down with

F&H to share their inspirations,

philosophies and advice.

JEN AGGWidely known as the owner and

operator of Toronto’s acclaimed

Black Hoof, Jen Agg is also

a master mixer, opening the

Toronto bar Cobalt at 21.

Bartending made sense to the

entreprenuer who had noticed a

steady decline in the quality of

alcoholic beverages being sold.

“In this culture, nobody knows

what good is, and everyone

thinks ‘OK’ is great,” she notes.

Agg surmises she’s been success-

ful because she cares about the

quality of the drinks she serves.

“Canada has a young food cul-

ture; we have a young culture

in general and that’s pervasive,”

she says. “But I push for quality

and keep away from all the BS.”

And, there’s plenty of the latter

in the male-dominated industry,

says Agg.

Regardless, in 2011 Agg

opened the rustic Cocktail Bar

across the street from the Black

Hoof, where she bases her drink

creations on what she likes per-

sonally, not on trends. Customer

favourites include the “Lavender

Hound” ($9), a unique blend

of lavender gin, red grapefruit,

lemon and maldon and Satriale’s

Iced Tea ($11) made with

Amaro, Averna, Earl Grey gin,

cucumber, lemon soda and salt.

And, Agg isn’t slowing down.

Last year, she opened another

drink-focused establishment —

Rhum Corner, a creative take on

the Haitian café. The casual bar,

conveniently located next to the

Black Hoof, features an array of

rums that are not available at

your typical liquor store. One of

the popular drinks is the Fresco

($10), which features a blend of

pomegranate syrup, falernum (a

Caribbean ginger-lime syrup)

and imported Havana rum.

Agg’s favourite is “Daiq’d Up”

($12), a double rum and Coke

topped with a frozen lime. It’s

another quality drink from the

prolific entrepreneur.

POURING FOR PROFITS


JENNER CORMIER Originally from Halifax, Jenner

Cormier, Canada’s 2013 Diageo

World Class Bartender of the

Year, now calls Toronto home.

And, although the 28-year-old

drink-slinger has worked in

Halifax, where he was involved

in the opening of The Middle

Spoon Desserterie & Cocktail

Bar and the Noble cocktail

lounge, he’s now surveying

Toronto’s cocktail scene, having

bartended at hubs such as Home

of the Brave, a new King Street

West lounge and the Toronto

International Film Festival.

Cormier’s main gig is work-

ing with Diageo as a Canadian

Ambassador and drink consul-

tant for the U.K.-based company

that touts a collection of alcohol

brands, including spirits, beer

and wine.

“Toronto’s an inspiring place

for the cocktail industry,” says

the surfer-turned-serious bar-

tender. “And there are a lot of

trends we are seeing — with

Sherry, for example, which has

also seen a big boom in London,

England and the U.S.” Cormier

also names Agave-based spirits

as an upcoming trend. “Tequila

and Mezcal have been gaining

attention from international

bartenders. That’s not going

away anytime soon.”

But the explosion in cocktail

experimentation and house-

made ingredients, such as bitters

and shrubs, is inspired by today’s

educated consumer. “People are

begging to really understand

and learn about what they are

drinking,” explains Cormier. “It’s

similar to how people are con-

cerned about their diet and pay

attention to the ingredients of

their food.”

One of Cormier’s enduring

favourite drinks is the Sazerac

with a base of cognac or rye. “I

like to add three or four dashes

of Peychaud’s Bitters, a little

simple syrup, and a couple of

ounces of George Dickel Rye

Wisky,” says Cormier. “Then

I finish the drink with a zest

of lemon.” Understanding the

classics is necessary. “Though it

is important to stay current, it

doesn’t matter how good your

cocktail list is if you cannot

offer a guest a unique experi-

ence,” he says.

VERONIQUE RIVESTIn 2013, Véronique Rivest

became Canada’s top sommelier,

placing second at the World’s

Best Sommelier Competition in

Tokyo. In doing so, she became

the first female to take the podi-

um. Rivest spent years preparing

for the competition. During time

off from her day job as the GM

and sommelier at Les Fougères

in Chelsea, Que., she trained her

senses by blindfolding herself to

learn how to discern a Riesling

from a Grüner Veltliner.

When it comes to recom-

mending wine, Rivest under-

stands it’s not about offering

guests what she likes. “There is

a ‘rock star’ or ‘celebrity status’

that is wrongly attached to the

image of what a sommelier

does. Many people, for instance,

will design a wine menu based

on their personal favourites, as

opposed to reflecting — who

is the clientele, what’s on the

menu?” she says.

Last month, Rivest opened

Soif (French for ‘thirst’),

a wine bar in Gatineau,

Que. “But don’t expect

to see any ‘cool’ wines

on the menu,” laughs

the owner. Rivest likes to

curate a diverse wine list,

including many ‘under-

dogs’ of the wine indus-

try, those made in small

quantities, from organic

ingredients and mostly

locally made. These are

the wines she knows

and loves — the ones

“made with passion”

she says. They include

Quebec wines Les

Pervenches from Farnham and

Vignoble du Marathonien from

Havelock.

Nevertheless, Rivest loves

sparkling wines best, noting

that many Canadian drink-

ers don’t realize that some of

the most incredible bottles

come from Canada. Four of

her favourite sparklers include:

Nova Scotia’s Benjamin Bridge,

which she compares to some

of the best Champagnes in the

world, Quebec’s L’Orpailleur

Brut, Ontario’s Henry of Pelham

Cuvée Catharine Brut and B.C.’s

Blue Mountain Brut.

Meanwhile, Rivest notes that

wines from muscat grapes are

hot sellers, while orange wines

are for imbibers who want

something more experimental.

(Orange wine is made by mac-

erating the skins in with the

flesh of the grapes, granting it

a brownish hue and an almost

bruised apple aroma.)

Having recently judged a

provincial sommelier competi-

tion in Ontario, Rivest offers

advice to industry newcomers:

“Persevere. No one wins com-

petitions at 21, and there is a

reason for that.” She adds: “In

wine-tasting, age is a bonus —

it connotes experience.” l

POURING FOR PROFITS

THOUGH IT IS IMPORTANT TO STAY CURRENT, IT DOESN’T MATTER HOW GOOD YOUR COCKTAIL LIST IS IF YOU CANNOT OFFER A GUEST A UNIQUE EXPERIENCE

““


EQUIPMENT

Induction equipment is

heating up, as supply

expands to fit grow-

ing needs. Product lines

have multiplied to include

everything from counter-

top single and multi-hob

burners to drop-in warm-

ing units, woks and plan-

chas (for grilling). There’s

even talk about induction

fryers coming to market

soon. And, induction

technology is finding a

home in kitchen suites

across the country.

In Toronto, the Hum-

ber College culinary

induction labs showcase

the latest innovations.

Shonah Chalmers, pro-

gram coordinator for

the school’s Culinary

Skills and Culinary

Management program,

says it’s very much in

keeping with the future

direction of cooking.

“Today, convection is

primarily found on the

baking and pastry side;

and traditional gas or

combi-ovens comprise

the bulk of cooking

needs,” she says. “But

many more [chefs] are

using induction, and

we wanted to be on the

edge. Students need that

exposure.”

At Humber, induction

technology is integrated

into two cooking suites

used by chef instructors.

The islands combine

four-burner induction

cooktops with convection

ovens and under-the-

counter refrigeration

and storage. Students

work on smaller suites

with two burners and

gas ovens.

Patrick Watt, con-

sultant with A Day

in Life Foodservice

Development in Saint

John, N.B., confirms

induction is playing a

big role in island suite

HOW SUITE IT IS Induction is a key com-ponent in many cooking suites, although all have unique options, includ-ing those at Toronto’s Humber College (above and far left, top), Holland College in Charlottetown (bottom), and those pro-vided through Montague (above). The SinAqua from Cooktek has an induction-based, water-less drop-in food well (left)

IF THE SUITE FITS

Induction technologies areincreasing efficiencies as

cooking island add-ons

BY DENISE DEVEAU


designs. “Garland [in

Mississauga, Ont.] has

built some heavy-duty

induction units that drop

in nicely to an island

suite. [Stockholm-based]

Electrolux has also done

well with this,” he says.

And, incorporating

induction cooktops into

suite designs helps create

narrower surfaces, mak-

ing a smaller footprint

that requires less ventila-

tion. “Then you can do

raised grills and drop-in

fryers,” Watt adds. “The

big leap however is in

warming capabilities,

which I wouldn’t be

surprised to see go into

island suites soon.”

Suites can be con-

figured to incorporate

holding drawers, refrig-

eration, plumbing and

garbage disposal func-

tions. Add-ons can also

include pass-through

and overhead shelves

as well as rails and spe-

cialty warmers. “Culinary

schools really love them;

their suites have pizzazz.

I’ve also seen small, basic

ones at café sites,” the

consultant says.

Tod Olson, project

manager for Trimen Food

Service Equipment, Inc.,

a distributor in Toronto,

won a 2011 Montague

Suite Dreams Design

competition. Since then

he has witnessed many

cooking suite innovations.

“[Induction is] getting

integrated more and more

into suites,” he notes, add-

ing that induction burn-

ers give more options

for fitting fridges and

ovens into cooking suites.

“Before ovens had to be

placed directly under

elements. Now you have

much more flexibility.”

The best suites have a

single point of connec-

tion for gas, electrical and

water/drainage. “When it

comes to doing rough-ins,

you only have to run one

connection into the curb

mounting. That’s a ben-

efit on the construction

side,” Olson notes.

At Holland College’s

Canada’s Smartest

Kitchen, a research and

development centre in

Charlottetown, a sub-

EQUIPMENT

A SUITE SOLUTION

When it came time to replace the aging appliances at The

Old Fish Factory Restaurant in Lunenburg, N.S., owner

Alan Creaser invested in a customized cooking suite, which

includes the latest induction technology.

He commissioned a suite configuration from Oakville, Ont.-

based Tarrison that includes a new induction cooktop with

four 3,000-watt induction burners. “We used to have six elec-

tric burners. There’s a huge difference between the amount

of heat we used to generate and what we do now, because

induction only heats when something is on the burner,”

Creaser explains. “We did have to do an electrical upgrade

because of the power requirements. But nothing can touch

induction for speed and cost.”

The all-in-one suite on wheels has a 72-inch base with

a four-foot work surface and a 24- x 36-inch grill from Fort

Wayne, Ind.-based AccuTemp. The induction station, includ-

ing the base and cooktop, costs approximately $14,800

— $10,000 for the cooktop, $4,800 for the refrigerated base

— and an additional $5,200 for the griddle.

Now everything is much more efficient — mussels can be

ready to serve in just two minutes, compared to the usual six.

“Induction is efficient, fast and cuts down on excess heat and

energy. The staff and chef love it. And the cost of replacing

pots and pans wasn’t that huge, about $1,500,” Creaser says.

Induction Cooking RangesYour Most Powerful Choice in Cooking Innovation!

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• Energy Efficiency While gas provides approximately 55% efficiency and traditional electric about 65%, in contrast induction cooking delivers 85% to 90%

• Performance Induction is by far faster and more precise than gas because the energy is being transferred within the cookware alloy

• Variety Front Serving Line and Rear Cooking configurations available

Pasta/Stir Fry Range complete with Ingredient Module

®


stantial cooking suite

with six induction burn-

ers is used for product

development. Four peo-

ple can work comfort-

ably on it, says Michael

Bryanton, research

and development chef.

Add-ons include a grill,

charbroiler and below-

the-counter refrigera-

tion units. There is also

a built-in sink, work

surfaces and a garbage

collection space. “Having

something in the centre

of the kitchen is a great

benefit location-wise,

because we can place

other equipment around

the perimeter. It’s a good

way to maximize space,”

says Bryanton. The unit

is stationary to enable

hardwiring for induction

and plumbing.

And, while a suite

suits a research centre’s

needs, it’s not always the

right choice for all opera-

tions. “I can see it in a

hotel prep kitchen, but

sometimes you get a bet-

ter workflow in a typical

linear setup, depending

on the menu and if you

need to configure set

pieces,” says Bryanton.

Olson agrees that not

all kitchens are ideal for

a cooking suite. “You

need to have a full walk-

around area, because you

are working with twice as

much depth as a standard

setup where you have the

hood against one wall

and workspace and cold

prep on the opposite

side,” he says, adding

that the latest innovation

he has seen is a single-

depth, double-sided

suite design.

A kitchen suite can

also be difficult to

reconfigure since it’s

highly customized. And

if the kitchen is run-

ning gas, it requires a

chimney, which could

restrict flexibility when

designing a system. “The

upside is you can do

some funky things with

design. Montague out of

[Hayward] California has

some of the nicest ones,”

Watt notes.

Jordan Prescesky, VP,

Research and Develop-

ment for Calgary-based

Franworks Group of

Companies, which oper-

ates locations under the

Original Joe’s Restaurant

& Bar, State & Main

Kitchen Bar as well as

Elephant & Castle Pub

and Restaurant brands,

understands the limita-

tions of small spaces.

“A middle island can

take up a ton of kitchen

space, because you need

so much area around

it. Without a linear

[configuration], refrig-

eration setup can be

tough,” Prescesky says,

noting that his kitchen

operations are run within

3,900 to 5,300 sq. ft.

Price, like space, can

also be a challenge when

considering the installa-

tion of a cooking suite.

“Take the cost of a nor-

mal cooking line and add

30 to 40 per cent to that,

because of the finishing,

detailing and assembly

involved,” Watt says.

But, suite or no suite,

there is one unusual

problem chefs should

beware of when working

with induction, accord-

ing to Susan Somerville,

dean of the School of

Hospitality, Recreation

and Tourism for Hum-

ber College. It turns

out some chefs ruined

their computers when

placing them near the

stovetops, which have

magnetic properties.

“They learned the hard

way,” she quips. l

EQUIPMENT

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CHEF’S CORNER

In Chinese culture, festivals are a pretty big deal. In fact, it was dur-

ing family food prep for these monthly celebrations in Singapore

where chef David Gunawan was introduced to cooking.

Later, as a civil engineering student working part-time in the kitch-

en of a West Lafayette, Ind. restaurant, the Singapore native found

himself drawn to the behind-the-scenes lifestyle. “When everyone’s

working, you’re just waking up. [That was the] attraction, just being in

the background of society,” says the 33-year-old, who later abandoned

engineering in favour of a hot stove.

Over the next few years, the young self-taught chef worked his way

up the ladder, traversing the globe, jumping from cooking positions

at Les Nomades in Chicago and West restaurant in Vancouver, to the

acclaimed In De Wulf in Belgium, where he learned to inject his per-

sonality into dishes. “When I got back from Europe I had a voice; I had

an opinion about food,” Gunawan recalls.

So, after helping open Wildebeest in Vancouver, he left to strike out

on his own. Last summer, Farmer’s Apprentice Restaurant was born,

taking the city by storm with its hyper-local mandate and nearly all-

organic menu. “We embody what is sustainable, what is ecologically

conscious, having a sense of awareness of the environment,” Gunawan

describes, of the moniker. “As chefs, we seem to over-glorify ourselves.

We never pay tribute to the person who gives us the food.... We just

take something, cut it up, put it in the pan and call it our creation.”

Partnerships with 15 farmers have afforded Gunawan intel on his pro-

duce’s growing conditions and climate, he says, and he likes to honour

each ingredient by keeping it as close to its natural form as possible.

“We get some of the best fruits from the region; you don’t want me to

process those. [They’re] too nice to do anything to them,” he explains.

The chef designs a daily evolving menu of farm-fresh ingredients,

which has included Heritage Mangalitsa pork with turnips, apricot

mostarda and mustard ($30) and a decidedly eastern-inspired dish of

Tamarind glazed sweetbreads, with cabbage, green curry and peanuts

($16) to appeal to Vancouver’s diverse Asian population.

Business at the cosy 28-seat restaurant (with an additional 10 seats

on the patio) is booming, averaging 80 to 90 covers and $4,000 in sales

on weekend nights. It’s garnered even more attention since Vancouver

Magazine dubbed Farmer’s Apprentice the city’s Best New Restaurant

and Best Casual-Dining restaurant.

“The most important thing is we abide by our own principles and

philosophy, and we have integrity, and that is enough to justify what we

do,” the chef sums up. He dreams of opening a restaurant on a farm. “If

we can do this on a larger scale, it will make a bigger impact in terms of

a local movement. Having that sort of independent restaurant flourish-

ing under the farm-to-table movement is important for the future.” l

BITS & BITES

PHO

TOS: VEN

TUR

I + K

AR

PA [D

AVID G

UN

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AN

]; DR

EAM

STIME.C

OM

[BITS &

BITES]

Favourite Fall Ingredient: “I

really like kale in the fall. It’s a lot sweeter than in

the summer.”

Comfort Food Craving: “I like a bowl of noodles. It could be of any cultural reference — ramen, it could be pho, it could be beef noodles.”

FIELD DEFENDERDavid Gunawan lets the ingredients do the talking at Farmer’s ApprenticeBY JACKIE SLOAT-SPENCER


Best Job Perk: “At this phase of my life, it’s teaching people how

to cook and the integrity of cooking.”

Favourite Kitchen Technique: “If I had

the means, I would do open-flame

[cooking]... I just like that primitive

factor in using open flame.”

S: 7.625

T: 8.125

B: 8.375

S: 10.375

T: 10.875

B: 11.125

New York | London | Toronto Amsterdam | Shanghai

sm JOB# AC_NY_J14_0003

PUB Food Service and Hospitality

TRIM 8.125in x 10.875in @ 100%

BLEED 8.375in x 11.125in @ 100%

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Quality Control Print Production Project Manager Art Director

Copywriter Creative Director Account Manager Client

FILE NAME: AC_NY_J14_0003_Food Service and Hospitality_6112014_Trade MODIFIED: June 2, 2014 11:02 AM

BY S . P E L L E G R I N O

C A P T U R E T H E E S S E N C E O F W H AT ’S H A P P E N I N G I N T H E C A N A D I A N C U L I N A RY S C E N E.

Orphans cooking with orphans. In Toronto, the people opening restaurants now are in their late 20s, early 30s who haven’t been slugging it out in a brigade-style kitchen for years like the founding fathers. There’s a generation of us rebellious teenagers just open-ing up restaurants, hiring our friends and taking risks. Hopefully, these young chefs grow into the leaders of Canada’s modern culinary movement.

H OW D O C U L I N A RY T R E N D S I M PA C T YO U R M E N U ?

I’m too busy to concern myself with trends. Evolution is made, not speculated. If there’s anything I’m into, it’s about fi nding something new. Maybe not something new to the world, but new to me. That’s my food trend.

W H AT I S I N S P I R I N G YO U R I G H T N OW ?

Gooseneck barnacles-pre-historic-looking crustacean creatures, super tasty. Only in season for about a month. When I sourced some, I was so excited that I posted a photo on

Instagram. 48 hours later there was an article about how these are the “next new thing.”

A S I D E F R O M T H E F O O D , W H AT M A K E S A G R E AT R E S TAU R A N T E X P E R I E N C E ?

Everything you put on the table matters. The details can dramatically elevate the dining experience—like a good quality napkin, artisanal bread or a bottle of S.Pellegrino. Even the bottle itself is beautiful; it’s like a bottle of wine. Water is the fi rst thing served at the table and the last thing that remains. So it only makes sense that the kind of water you serve is considered. If you think about it, fi ltered water or tap water—it’s only as good as its source.

G I V E U S A H I N T A B O U T W H AT ’S O N T H E H O R I ZO N F O R YO U ?

I’m excited about a new venture I’m working on inspired by the Pintxo bars of San Sebastian. It’s a completely dif ferent way of eating, very social and a new style for Toronto. It’s food-at-your-own-pace that takes traditional tapas to a whole new level.

Meet Chef Grant van Gameren, the culinary pioneer

and driving force behind Toronto’s Bar Isabel, named as

Canada’s Best New Restaurant in 2014. We asked him

to reveal his sources for inspiration and ingredients, and

tell us what’s on his radar for the future.

“ E V E R Y T H I N G YO U P U T O N T H A T

TA B L E M A T T E R S . T H E D E TA I L S C A N

D R A M A T I C A L LY E L E VA T E T H E D I N I N G

E X P E R I E N C E , L I K E A G O O D Q U A L I T Y

N A P K I N , A R T I S A N A L B R E A D O R A B O T T L E

O F S . P E L L E G R I N O . ”

F I N E D I N I N G L OV E R S . C O MTEXT BY Angie MosierPHOTO BY Brock Elbank

For more inspiration visit

ADVERTISEMENT

GR ANTVAN

GAMEREN

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Initial Keyline Date: 9.9.14

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S. MartineauM. SullivanS. MartineauJ. SmithA. WoodC. BandstraR. OrtizJ. Blanchard

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Single Page Gatefold Ad A

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