With the wide of paving and walling products available from Wickes, the possibilitiesfor laying out an attractive feature patio or a paved area are limited only by your ownimagination.

Actually Laying paving slabs and building walls for the garden are not difficult jobs.You do not need to be a professional to do this sort of work. The purpose of this leafletis to help with the work and to explain how jobs are done. Paving and Walling aretreated as two different subjects.

Laying Concrete ‘Block Pavers’ is described in detail towards the back of this leaflet.

Most people have an idea of how they want their garden to look but perhaps find itdifficult to actually put their ideas into action. The secret is in planning in advance.You need to start with a sheet of graph paper and draw to scale the part of the gardenyou wish to develop. Mark in any immovable objects such as the rear wall of thehouse, the garage, your boundary line, and items such as large trees and any otherfeatures you wish to keep.

If a patio is to be on raised ground or to be on more than one level, mark the intendedlocation of walling and steps.

Add interest to a layout by mixing slab colours, or you could leave out the odd slab,here and there, to allow plants or shrubs to be grown. Try laying decorative chippingsor gravel in the spaces. Maybe incorporate a water feature or pond into a patio design.Important: If children are to use the area, make sure any water feature has little orno depth.

Plan any lighting positions, electrical and drainage services early on (for drainage seeGIL 74). All cabling and drain runs will need to be in position, underground, andprotected, before starting.Note: All electrical work must conform to BS 7671 the current IEE Wiring Regulations,and Part P of Building Regulations. You are advised to check with your local authority’sBuilding Control Department, or an Authorised Competent Person, before starting. If inany doubt about electrical work, contact a qualified electrician.

ISSUE 03/06

PAVING & WALLINGMost people think of a patioas just a small area ofgarden covered with pavingstones rather than grass orflower beds. In fact itshould be much more thanthat. It should be a feature of thegarden either directlyalongside the house withaccess via French or patiodoors, or it could be a

separate area in a shelteredsunny corner of the gardenaway from the house.It can be used as a level firmspace for children to play anarea on which your gardenfurniture is spread out andyou can enjoy a BBQ ormeals outside. It could justbe somewhere to sit andsoak up the sun.

Although the main areashould be level, a patiodoesn’t have to be all on onelevel. Surrounding areas may behigher or lower dependingupon the slope of theground. Each separate areacan be sectioned off withdwarf walls, perhaps doublewalls with soil in-betweenfor plants.

KEEP INFORMED• Look for other Good Idea

Leaflets that could help youwith your current project.

• Check that your Good IdeaLeaflets are kept up to date.Leaflets are regularly changedto reflect product changes sokeep an eye on issue dates.

• If you would like to be put onour mailing list for the Wickesbooklet, call our Freephonenumber which is:

0500 300 328• Visit our website on

www.wickes.co.uk

BEFORE YOU START

14

Diagram 1 shows how slabs can be laidto create patterns. They don’t alwayshave to be alongside each other - theycan be laid as stepping stones acrossthe lawn or as a path beside a border. Allideas like these should be drawn intoyour scale plan - on paper – before

commencing work.Diagram 2 shows ways to lay Wickescircle textured slabs.Once you have made your plans,transfer them into a full size layout onthe actual site. Set out using string linesand pegs. This will give you the

opportunity to check that everything willbe, as you want it, and that, for example,not too much space is taken up byoverambitious planning. Essentialinformation at the planning stage is thesize of paving slabs you intend to use,so that these can be incorporated intothe design. Wherever possible youshould plan to use full size slabs to keepcutting to a minimum. The same applies to perimeter walling.You need to know block lengths andwidths to be able to put these on theplans reasonably accurately(remembering the mortar gaps). Givenaccurate plans, you will be able to workout your material requirements moreeasily.

Note: Wickes full range of paving andwalling products, complete with sizes,are shown in the enclosed ProjectShopping List.

IMPORTANTThere are two essential rules that mustbe followed if a patio is being laidalongside a house wall:1. The top of the paving slabs must be,at least, 150mm below the house dampproof course.2. The slabs must be laid with a gentleslope away from the wall to ensure thatrainwater runs away from the house. Aslope of 50mm over 3 metres is theminimum acceptable.

If the cutting of many paving slabs andwalling blocks is necessary, you may findit worthwhile to hire a slab and wallingblock splitter from a local hire shop, oruse a 9 inch angle grinder. If little cuttingis needed you will be able to make dowith a club hammer and bolster chisel.If hardcore needs to be put below pavingon soft ground, this must be wellcompacted. Hire a plate compactor forthis.You will also need a good spirit levelideally, at least, 600mm long (this can bepurchased from any Wickes store).

It is always a good idea to know roughlythe cost of materials required. Below wehave prepared an example shopping listfor a 3.6 by 2.7m patio using our 450mmsquare Buxton Buff textured pavingslabs, laid as example A, in Diagram 1,plus a 3.6m long by about 760mm highwall, in Brecon pitched face wallingblocks.

Use the list to calculate your ownrequirements. To cost the items, eithercall into your local Wickes store or usethe Wickes booklet (The booklet andstore addresses can also be found onour Website: www.wickes.co.uk).As a guide to quantities you require:5 x 450 x 450mm paving slabs per

PRODUCT Singles Packs QTY

PROJECT SHOPPING LIST

PAVING SLABS400 x 400 x 28mm Derby Buff 224-700 224-701 pack of 70400 x 400 x 28mm Derby Grey 224-595 224-596 pack of 70450 x 450 x 32mm Lindale Riven Red 224-567 244-566 pack of 70450 x 450 x 32mm Lindale Riven Buff 224-568 224-569 pack of 70600 x 600 x 35mm Hamilton Riven 224-570 224-573 Pack of 25600 x 300 x 35mm Hamilton Riven 224-571 224-574 Pack of 50300 x 300 x 35mm Hamilton Riven 224-572 224-575 Pack of 75600 x 600 x 35mm Carrington* 154-324 154-323 Pack of 28450 x 450 x 35mm Buxton Buff 220-900 220-361 pack of 60Wentworth Netted Paving 154-325600 x 600 x 38mm Wentworth 220-555 220-117 Pack of 25600 x 300 x 38mm Wentworth 220-556 220-118 Pack of 50300 x 300 x 38mm Wentworth 220-557 220-119 Pack of 50450 x 450 x 38mm Yorkstone 154-438 187-795 Pack of 25400 x 400 x 38mm Fairfield Light Smooth 220-428 220-427 Pack of 60560 x 560 x 18-22mm Natural Riven Sandstone 220-314 154-340 Pack of 18560 x 422 x 18-22mm Natural Riven Sandstone 220-315 154-341 Pack of 18560 x 275 x 18-22mm Natural Riven Sandstone 220-316 154-342 Pack of 36

Natural Riven Sandstone Circle & Squaring-Off Kit 154-408 1 Set(Contains 1 complete circle and squaring off kit 2.5m diameter).1 x centre stone, 8 x 1st ring segments, 16 x 2nd ring segments and 1 squaring-off kit)Buxton Half Circle Set 154-410 1 Set(Contains 1 x �� centre stone, 4 x 1st ring segments, 8 x 2nd ring segments)Wentworth Half Circle Set 220-558 1 Set(Contains 1 x �� centre stone, 4 x 1st ring segments, 8 x 2nd ring segments)Wentworth Half Circle Set Squaring-Off Kit 220-559 1 Set(Contains 2 each of corner, LH, RH and centre sections)

DRIVEWAY PAVERS100 x 200 x 50mm Brindle Blocks 221-000 221-001 pack of 488100 x 200 x 50mm Red Blocks 220-245 220-246 pack of 488110 x 110 x 50mm Knightsbridge /Tumble Block - Terracotta Effect

220-184 220-143 pack of 882240 x 160 x 50mm Knightsbridge Block 224-610 224-611 Pack of 280160 x 160 x 50mm Knightsbridge Block 224-612 224-613 Pack of 420120 x 120 x 50mm Knightsbridge Block 224-614 224-615 Pack of 560

WALLING300 x 100 x 65mm Pitched faced walling 224-598 224-599 Pack of 297300 x 100 x 140mm Pitched faced walling 220-308 220-322 Pack of 135

COPING AND EDGING600 x 140 x 50mm White apex cast coping 154-406610 x 136 x 50mm Buff flat coping 220-905600 x 150 x 50mm White round top edging 220-357600 x 150 x 50mm Buff contour edging 220-809600 x 150 x 50mm Red contour edging 224-639Sand, Block paving sand, Cement and Ballast, is sold by the bag or pallet. To cost any of the above, call into your local store or use the Wickes booklet, which can be found on our website: www.wickes.co.uk

PRODUCTS - ALL STORES Laying MethodDERBY PAVINGHAMILTON DEEP RIVEN PAVINGLINDALE DEEP RIVEN PAVINGBUXTON PAVINGFAIRFIELD SILVER PAVINGWENTWORTH PAVING Full mortar bed with mortar-pointed joints of 8-15mmNATURAL STONE This stone is tapered and must be laid on a bed of full mortar with the

largest face uppermost. Paving joints should be 8-15mm wide and fully pointed with mortar.

Products - Selected Stores Only Laying MethodDECK TILE DIAGONAL & PARQUET Full mortar bed with mortar-pointed joints of 3mm. CARRINGTON PAVING Full mortar bed with mortar-pointed joints of 8-10mmMEDITERRANEAN PAVING Full mortar bed with mortar-pointed joints of 8-10mmMATLOCK PAVING Full mortar bed with mortar-pointed joints, or decorative aggregate or

sand joints. Can be laid onto screeded sand with variety of jointing materials.

SPECIAL TOOLS

Full mortar bed with mortar-pointed joints of 8-10mm.

Can also be laid on screeded sand with sand filled

joints of 2-5mm.

square metre.47 x 300 x 100 x 65mm walling blocks persquare metre including mortar thickness.1 x Bag of sand and cement will besufficient to lay about 30, 300 x 100 x65mm walling blocks.

You will require two bags of cement and13 bags of sharp sand for every 5 squaremetres of paving.Always add 5-10% to quantities to allowfor any breakage.Add Wickes Mortar Plasticiser (240-669)

to mortar mixes for wall construction.This will improve adhesion, strength &workability.1. Constructing a wall.2. Preparing the ground for a patio.3. Laying paving.

1. CONSTRUCTING A WALLUnless you are building onto existingconcrete or firm paving stones, you mustprovide adequate foundations for thewall. The concrete part of thesefoundations should be 300mm wide and75mm thick. The blocks will eventuallybe laid in the centre of the concretesurface.At least 100mm of well firmed hardcorewill be needed under the concrete so digout a trench 180-200mm deep where thewall is to be. Use pegs and string to markout the trench. Drive 300mm longwooden pegs into the centre of the

450 x 450mmPAVING SLABS

450 x 450mm PAVING SLABSSTAGGERED.

CUT STONES CAN BE USED TO FILL IN ENDS

PEGS TO BE LEVEL 25mm BELOW

GROUND

75mm CONCRETECONCRETE TOFINISH 25mm

BELOW GROUNDLEVEL

100mm WELL COMPACTEDHARDCORE

TRENCH 200mm DEEP

CONCRETEFOUNDATION

1st BLOCK

STRINGLINE

GROUND LEVEL

HALF BLOCK

FULL LENGTH BLOCK

RETURN WALL DETAIL

COPING

PATH

300mm

300mm 300mm

75mm

100mm

HARDCORE

CONCRETE

HARDCORE

CONCRETE

HARDCORE

CONCRETE

WALLINGBLOCKS

1

3

4

5

6

WALLINGBLOCKS

CONCRETEBLOCKS

PAVING

SOIL FORPLANTS

7

A

B

EXPLODEDVIEW OF SEGMENT

2nd RINGSEGMENTS

CENTRECIRCLE600mmDIAMETER

600mm CENTRECIRCLE SLABS

DRIVEWAYBLOCKS

1st RING SEGMENTS

2

SEMICIRCLEFEATUREUSING 1st & 2ndRING SEGMENTS

450mm

450mm

WORK SEQUENCE

trench at 1200mm to 1800mm intervalsso that they project from the base up to apoint about 25mm below ground level.Use a spirit level and straight edge toensure the tops of the pegs are level.They will serve as a guide when theconcrete is laid, indicating the surfacelevel.Infill the trench with well compactedhardcore then concrete up to peg level.Diagram 3.

Leave the concrete to set. Note: Cover with polythene sheeting tokeep any rain off, and also to prevent itdrying out too quickly in hot weather.Stretch a string line along the setconcrete where the front edge of the wallis to finish. This will ensure that the firstcourse is laid straight. The blocks arealways laid in the centre of the concrete.Starting at one end of the wall spreadmortar to a depth of about 12mm behindthe string line. The mortar should beworkable but not sloppy.Lay the first end or corner block in placeand tap down gently, compressing themortar to about 9mm. Check that it islevel. Diagram 4. Continue laying the first course with 9mm

mortar joints between each block. Takecare not to allow mortar to get on thefaces of the blocks where it could causestaining.

Note: On a straight wall with no returncorners start the second course with ahalf block. To cut a block, chip a groove all roundthe block with a bolster chisel and clubhammer along the intended cutting line.Lay the scored block on a sand bed,place the chisel in the groove then strikefirmly with the club hammer to split theblock. Alternatively, use a hired splitter orangle grinder (especially if you have manycuts to make).On a wall with a corner (return) start thesecond course with one block laid at 90°to the first course. Diagram 5 shows thetwo layouts.Continue building course by courseconstantly checking that the blocks arelevel and in line both vertically andhorizontally keeping the mortar joints toan even 9mm thickness.

Note: Remove excess mortarimmediately so that it does not stain theface of the blocks. When the mortar

starts to set, either smooth it flush withthe blocks using the rounded end of apiece of wood or rake, or back behindthe block face to a depth of about 6mmusing a trowel. This is a job that cangenerally be left for a while, depending ontemperature, after the mortar has beenlaid.Cap the finished wall with coping stoneslaid on a mortar bed.Diagram 6 shows a simple wall or anedging to a path.Diagram 7 shows the layout of a wallwith soil behind for plants, then paving.The soil under the paving is retained byWickes concrete blocks laid on hardcoreand concrete footings. The footings forthe two walls are separate to allowdrainage through to the ground below.Diagrams 8 & 9 show other ways ofbuilding retaining walls where the groundslopes away from a house wall andDiagram 10 shows how to deal withground sloping towards the house

2. PREPARING THE GROUND FOR APATIOHow you prepare the ground for pavingslabs depends entirely upon siteconditions, the thickness of the slab andwhat you are planning to do. Note: Some types of slab - especiallythe thinner and more fragile ones -must only be laid on a solid bed ofmortar 25mm thick with mortar filledjoints of 8 – 10mm (using the ‘Dob &Dab’ or other method, could causesome to break in use), these aremarked with an asterisk* in theshopping list.

If your slabs are suitable (strong enough),the ground is firm, even when wet (forexample as on chalk) and you only intendto lay slabs, you need do no more thanremove any turf and a little topsoil. Youonly need to dig out enough to ensurethat the area is deep enough to cope with38-50mm of sand plus the slab thickness,leaving the top of the slabs just below turflevel. You can then mow over the edgeof the slabs.In a situation the subsoil is less stablesuch as clay or peat, you need to digmuch deeper in order to put in astabilising 100mm thick layer of very wellcompacted hardcore before laying thesand bed. In both of these situations the sandshould be thoroughly mixed with cement- 1 part cement to 9 parts sand - anddampened with water creating a ‘semi-dry’ mix. The cement/sand is only laidjust prior to the slabs going down.

Note: In the case of thinner or morefragile slabs, this should always be atleast 100mm of well-compactedhardcore, then lay the slab onto 25mm ofmortar, as shown below.In reality, few areas are level enough forimmediate paving, some areas will needto be excavated, while others built up tocreate the level.

SINGLETHICKNESS

WALL

COPING STONE

PAVING SLAB

PAVING SLABSSINGLE

THICKNESS WALLNO MORE THAN

FIVE BLOCKS HIGH

ON FOOTINGS

ON FOOTINGS

200mm THICK WALLON FOOTINGS

WIDE COPING

DEALING WITH GROUND SLOPING TOWARDS THE HOUSE

PAVED WALKWAYOR PATIO

SOILREMOVED

BUILDINGBLOCKS ONFOOTINGS

SOIL ANDHARDCORE

ADDED

SOIL ANDHARDCORE

ADDEDTHEN SAND

EXISTINGGROUND

EXISTINGGROUND

HO

US

E W

ALL

HO

US

E W

ALL

HO

US

E W

ALL

ONE WAY TO DEAL WITH GROUND SLOPINGAWAY FROM THE HOUSE WALL IS TO BUILD UP8

9

10

Note: Never re-use clay or peat soils tomake up ground (the will settle, causingthe slabs to sink within a year). Alwaysmake up with hardcore and compact itwell.Time spent in good preparation is timewell spent. If you don’t take care toprepare a firm base, you cannot expectyour paving slabs to remain level orwhole. Poor preparation will lead to slabssinking and/or breaking, so that they haveto be re-laid or replaced after a year orso.

3. LAYING PAVINGScreeded SandAfter preparing the base the paving canbe laid onto the semi dry cement/sandmix mentioned previously. This should be38-50mm thick.As with the tiling of walls you mustalways ensure that your first row (ofslabs) is laid in a perfectly straight line,which may well be alongside the housewall or a wall, which you have builtaround the patio perimeter.

SOLID BED METHODDepending on the type of ground, asshown previously, dig out enough toensure that the area is deep enough tocope with the desired thickness ofhardcore (it’s always better to have toomuch than too little), 25mm of mortarplus the slab thickness, leaving the top of

the slabs just below turf level. Before laying any slabs, lay and level a25mm layer of mortar onto thecompacted hardcore (but only as muchas can be laid in on go, remembering themortar will set faster in warm weather.Working away from walls etc. and leavinga gap of between 8–10-mm for mortarjoints, carefully lay the slabs

Note: All thin or fragile slabs must be laidon a full bed of mortar, 25mm thick

REMEMBER: If slabs are to be buttedup against the house wall, the topsurface of the slabs must be at least150mm below d.p.c. level and the slabsmust slope away from the wall.

To ensure that an even slope ismaintained use 6mm thick pieces of plyor some similar material. Place the ply onthe edge of the slab furthest from thehouse wall. Place your spirit level on theply and on the opposite edge of the slab.When the bubble in the level is central,you have the correct slope. Diagram 11.Leave 9mm gaps between slabs. It willhelp if you prepare a good supply ofspacers for this purpose, perhaps cuttingup pieces of plywood of the correctthickness. Diagram 12.

Ensure that all the slabs are well beddeddown onto the cement/sand and do notpivot on an uneven base. Whennecessary add or remove the beddingmix to achieve a firm and stable base.There can be some colour/shadevariation between packs of slabs.Therefore you should intermix slabsfrom different packs.If slabs need to be cut by hand, mark apencil line all round. Lay the slab on abed of sand and chip out a groove alongthe line, using a club hammer and bolsterchisel. Chop out to a depth of about3mm all round the slab. Tap the wastepart of the slab with the club hammerhandle. Diagram 13. The slab shouldbreak apart along the line, if the cut

groove is deep enough. As mentionedpreviously, if a lot of cutting has to bedone, it is far better to hire a block splitter(if you can’t get one, use a 230mm/9"angle grinder).Do not walk on the set slabs for at least24 hours. After this time you can removethe spacers. Infill the gaps with a mortarmix, taking care to keep the mix off theface of the slabs. This can be a tediousjob, but failure to do it will lead to thegrowth of weeds between the slabs andwill allow them to move sideways, out ofposition.If time is not on your side, or your notkeen on filling each gap individually, whynot use: Wickes (Brush-in) PavingJointing Compound, this superb productis suitable for filling paving gaps of over5mm wide and 25mm deep, requiring nospecial skills or equipment and is up to20 times faster than traditional methods.This product gives strong durable jointsand is non-staining. It inhibits the growth

of weeds and is power / machinewashable (always follow themanufactures instructions).

Note: Paving slabs are made frommaterials that contain natural salts.When wet these salts may appear onthe surface of the slabs asdiscolouration or crystals - known as‘efflorescence’. This is perfectlynormal. Never try to clean the surfaceof the slabs using yet more water. Thiswill simply lead to the appearance ofmore crystals. Allow the slabs to drythen brush the surface firmly with acompletely dry, stiff yard broom. Overa period of time after wetting, dryingand brushing, the salts will cease toappear.

BUILDING GARDEN STEPSOn sloping sites or where patios havebeen built on two or more levels you maywell need to construct steps. This is areasonably straightforward task involvinglittle more than setting walling blocksonto concrete footings at the bottom endif at ground level and then putting pavingslabs onto the walling following normalpaving laying procedures. The pavingslabs create the treads, and the wallingblocks the risers.If there is to be more than one change inlevel, i.e. two or three steps up, thesecond riser blocks will be bedded ontothe paving slab surface at the rear. Theslabs therefore must be secure and laidon hardcore topped with a cement/sand

BREAKING AGROOVED SLAB

12

13

GROUNDLEVEL

SAND/CEMENT

CONCRETE GROUND DUG OUT TOAPPROXIMATE SLOPE

EXTRA HARDCOREHARDCORE

14

6mm THICK

11

mix. In this case the mix should be about1 part cement to 6 parts sand and laidonly slightly moistened. Diagram 14 shows a section view of aseries of steps.Never make each step higher than twowalling blocks.

CONCRETE BLOCK PAVINGOne of the easiest possible ways ofconstructing an attractive, long lasting,and hardwearing driveway is to use our

Stamford Concrete Paving Blocks. These100 x 200 x 50mm blocks can behandled and laid more easily than mostother driveway surfacing materials andcan withstand the pressures exerted bythe weight of a car when set on thecorrect base.They are equally suitable for makingpaths around the house and garden, andcan even be used for a patio.Diagram 15 shows three possible laying

patterns for the blocks. For vehicularaccess one of the herringbone patternsshould be used. For pedestrian access orpatios either pattern is suitable. Coverageis about 50 blocks per square metre.Sharp sand is used for the bedding of theblocks and Patio and Block Paving Sandas the material for the infilling betweenblocks which have in-built spacers.The tools you will require are a shoveland rake, a plate vibrator (hired), a stone

splitter (also hired), and a bolster chiseland club hammer.You should also make a striking offboard. This is simply a piece of timberabout 100mm wide, and long enough to

span the width of the intended drive orpath. With other timber strips added ateach end it is used to check the level ofany hardcore used and then, with the endstrips positioned differently, to level offthe bedding sand. Diagram 16.The timber strips are intended to rest onthe top edges of a retaining edgestructure whilst levelling is carried out.Any driveway or path needs to be builtwithin a retaining frame to prevent thebedding sand or the blocks beingdisplaced. Our path edgings set in aconcrete bed are ideal for the purposebeing set as in Diagram 17.

PREPARING THE GROUNDIf constructing a driveway you must setthe blocks on sand and hardcore so youwill need to dig out ground to a depth ofabout 200mm.Set your retaining edging stones inconcrete so that the tops are at yourintended finished drive level.When the concrete has set infill withhardcore and compact to a depth ofabout 100mm using your striking-offboard to check this. Diagram 18. Notethe position of the timber strips. A platevibrator may be used to compact the

hardcore, but be careful not to disturbthe edging stones.LAYING BLOCKSStarting at one end of the drive, lay sandacross the full width but only extendabout 3 metres along the drive, or overan area you can reasonably expect tocomplete in a working period. Spread thesand to a thickness of 65mm withoutwalking on it or otherwise compacting.Use your striking-off board, with the

timbers set as shown in Diagram 19 toachieve the level.Still without walking on the sand startpositioning the blocks in the design ofyour choice on the sand up against the

starting point. The in-built spacers, onthe blocks, will keep them the correctdistance apart. If working to aherringbone pattern don’t worry aboutcutting blocks to fit edges, yet There can be some colour/shadevariation between packs of blocks orslabs. Therefore you should intermixblocks (or slabs) from different packs.Once you have laid the blocks over thefirst 1.5 metres of the drive - not thecomplete sanded area - use the platevibrator to bed them down into the sand.Two or three passes with the vibratorshould bed them to the level of theretaining wall.

Do not vibrate within one metre of theend of the sand bed. Continue spreadingsand, laying blocks, and vibrating downin easy stages. Fit cut edge blocks asnecessary. Cut them with a splitter, if youhave hired one, or with a bolster chiseland club hammer as for normal pavingslabs, as previously described in thisleaflet.Patio/Block Paving Sand must then bespread over the surface and initiallybrushed backwards and forwards untilthe spaces between the blocks arecompletely full.

CONCRETE

EDGINGSOIL OR GROUND LEVEL

NOT TO SCALE

INTENDED FINISHED DRIVE LEVEL

EXCAVATE TO200mm BELOW

17

NOT TO SCALE

100mm STRIKING OFF BOARD

COMPACTED HARDCORE TO 100mm BELOW TOP OF PERIMETER

18

STRIKING OFF BOARD

50mm 35mm

SAND TO 35mm BELOW TOP OF PERIMETER

19

PARQUET PATTERNNot suitable for vehicles

90° HERRINGBONE PATTERNSuitable for vehicles

45° HERRINGBONE PATTERNSuitable for vehicles

15

SQUARE BATTEN

TO CHECK HEIGHT OF HARDCORE

INTERNAL WIDTH OF FRAMEWORK

TO LEVEL SAND

100mm

35mm

16

Leaving some sand on the surface, makea couple of passes with the vibrator tocompress more sand into the gaps.Finally, remove excess sand and the driveis ready for use.

BROKEN OR SUNKEN BLOCKS

Paving Blocks can break or sink.Replacing or raising them can be aproblem, as they are usually tightlypacked together. Depending how tightlypacked they are, one of two methods fortheir removal can be used (always weareye protection and gloves):

1. Drill a hole in the centre of the block,or largest piece, using a hammer drill andmasonry bit. Insert a rawlplug andscrewed eye bolt of a suitable size,thread a piece of strong cord through theeye and carefully pull upward (thismethod only works if the block is not tootight).Note: If there are several sunken blocksto be raised or replaced, start at the outeredge of the depression, these will be theleast tightly packed and the easiest toremove.2. If the above method does not work, orthe block is too tight, use a largemasonry bit, and drill as many holes aspossible across the block. Using a sharpcold chisel and club hammer, chip out theblock by cutting across the drilled holes.Repeat if necessary until the block isremoved. Once a block (or piece) is out, theadjacent blocks should be easilyremoved.

Replacing one block - add a little sharpsand, levelling with the edge of a shortpiece of wood. Carefully drop the newblock into place. Protecting the surfacewith another piece of wood; tamp downuntil level with the other blocks.Replacing several blocks is similar toone, but make sure each one iscompletely level and firmly butted againstits neighbour, making sure there aren’tany gaps, or the last one won’t fit andyou’ll have to start again! Fit the last oneend up so it can be easily removed (thiswill stop the space closing up). When all are in place, use a long straightedge across the tops to re-check they arelevel, tamp down any that are proud. Addsand under any that are low. Fit the lastblock correctly (if this needs assistance,use a piece of wood over the block andgently tap in) and check for level.

Raised Blocks or SlabsGrowing trees roots are usually the causeof raised block pavers and slabs. If this isthe case, before attempting a repair,contact your local council (in the event ofvery obvious or serious damage, yourinsurance company), for advice aboutdamage caused by trees. NEVER removelarge roots without professional advice,you could cause all sorts of problems!

Broken or sunken Paving SlabsFirstly remove any mortar (if used) fromaround the slab by using a narrow bladedmasonry chisel (if the mortar is in poorcondition, an old strong screwdriver maydo). Take care not to damage the edge ofthe neighbouring slabs.For a broken slab, chisel a hole into thebroken part of the slab, then carefullylever out the pieces until all are removed.Sunken whole slabs are a little moredifficult. Assuming there is a gap betweenthe slab, and the neighbouring slabs,insert a wide chisel, spade or suitable

lever. Place a piece of wood over theadjacent slab and lever onto that. Havetwo or three pieces of wood ready, strongand thick enough to support and raisethe slab sufficiently for you to get yourfingers underneath. Carefully lift out theslab (if it’s heavy, get some help) Placeonto more pieces of wood (you’ll need toget your fingers underneath to put itback).

ReplacingRemove any old mortar from the hole andthe edges. Add sharp sand, tamp downand level. If using mortar, allow about10mm room on top of the sand for themortar. Add five blobs – one to eachcorner and one to the centre (the slab willneed to be raised just enough above theothers to allow tamping down andlevelling), apply a thin strip of mortararound the edges of the hole.The difficult bit is getting the slab into thehole without ruining the sand and mortarbase.

Carefully place one end of the slab intoposition, making sure the surroundinggaps are equal, then lower. If you need tocentre the slab, use a wide chisel or aspade and gently lever against (withoutdamaging) the sound neighbouring slabs. Another method is to lift the slab on twopieces of suitable cord (or flat plasticbanding) and gently lower into the hole (ifit’s heavy use two or more people). Use the handle of a club hammer to tampthe slab into position, making sure it’slevel by using a long sprit level. Cut thecord or banding level with the slab andpush down below the surface (plasticbanding is sharp so be careful). Addmortar into the joints and smooth levelwith the other slabs. Quickly remove theexcess or it will stain the slab surface andlook unsightly.

Whilst every care has been taken to ensure that the product design, descriptions, specifications and techniques of constructing the products are accurate at the date ofprinting. Wickes products will inevitably change from time to time and the customer is advised to check that the design, descriptions, specifications and techniques of

constructing any of the products described in this leaflet are still valid at the time of purchase or placing an order.© Wickes Building Supplies Limited 2006

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