, I I \ '

Iiiii cdlllon \ \ I HELEN JOSEPtt-~ll!ONG PATTERtJMAKiftJG

for faShion desigl

PATTERNMAKING Fifth Edition

HELEN JOSEPH-ARMSTRONG Professor ol fashion Oesign

lhe faShion Center LO$ Angeles Trodelechnicol Cottege

Technical Illustrator VIncent James Maruzzi

Fashion Illustrator Kathryn Hagen

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Contents A com!*'t tiSNn.g Of the COntents. 01 each ChoP'~ o~cn ::-.e c:ho;J~tr "'*""9-

Prefoee vii Aef

19 20

StropJoss foundation ond lnlerconslructlon Ponommoklng tor 8tos-Cut Dresses 426

PART6 21 Shit Is 440 22 women's Joctets ond Coots 458 23 Men's W.Ot 491 24 Copes ond HoOds 5l

405

25 Knoc~.on Copyjng ReodyMode Designs 552

PART 7 26 Ponl1 564 27 Knib-slt&leh ond Slltln~ogo fociOfS 626 28 Knil lop Fooodollons 632 29 Acltveweor lot Donee ond Exorcise 640 30 Swtmweot 658

PART8 31 lnlfO iUustntes th\t ~"dclpmeont of che contour Guk!t P:l!tcm for sm:p6c-.., unp~

n)'~ ln("luding nnout nec:IJirws and .ln"tth~. P.i.lf Ill, Ch;aptcr 10. Coll:u d;JSQfic:annn .. ~ tu.-1

on two t}'J'l('t: ron'utlhk- 1)!-~Ut.. mmdan.n. il.ll. s.tand 1)~1. J:nd OOilJ\ .. Mi.\t'"' t)f t'Ohl dt-slgn pMf'b (h~llcrtsc the :('.lfR('t. ,., ,,..,, i:s. ptm"i!k'o.f.

ChJ:pcct l.l Fout ilin !OuOc.btK'ln.' Jtn.t the-ir ....a. hc'lul"'t~ .lre di.'

vii PretOo:e

1-..rtll, C"llolj'ltt't It! llultfMI '-lmjk'\ .110: \IK~'i\'11 1\illl \II(') Mf ~olftll._.ri\,(111 . J~k j)ull\lll II\ k'\ ol!l\1 st.:ulojl.ud d"'to'l l'"""'"lrr lh" Jl.lll('fllllloi Mt l'lidl dMlK\"). f~U~I .m iiMhl\.k>.l W!'-11.110: .111\1 .IJltll

tllll"l\1~ TMo~rc,., .. L,.J. (.'hJrttr ,- 11M11 o~h nKth"'' lclf nun

... hM butl1'1mAU 1\lol dtwt~ \('\("';tl \,UIJIItn .IU" ilh,uunN 1\'oml. lllloll'lnl' f"I"H ,,.,.,,. ' .lc " /olt4c1, hill lrirb (1lf'"' mid c tiOIIolll, '' Ito~/...,, '"''' il ,II/ c Hf"'rlc' till\ Jf\"ti(lfl,

( hJfllt, l.. f\\'(1 ClfX' ftllllld.ttiOII\ (l"'rt. c:llk""ul~ ' more

\ \II('("UI ~rJ'I.-datM>n 10~1l:liCUtt Ibm \\~ ltkn m.~n.~~. of tilt CAll wo,tn"M. lnr h;,. "''"'- ,n

II~ C:Clm,M.IIl, dtJ~ft ol tht ba.\ac fil'(-pi('('e p..U.m\ lh;.U otth~ 111th c.'htk'ln. lll ;tldllj.: fWtfWIIMI..iltoi /rJt f.tiol!iclfl l"\'1, '1 .1 ""'l\lhhil

(U~wnl.llltlO.

About the Author lll'l,n Jm('Jlh \ffll\ltt'lftg h ~ f~,..hlon

Pattern making Essentials for the Workroom Mm:tNMAKIHG fOOlS 2

k.nc:-. ol PottMW~CJ~o.--g 100il ~ 10 R\tOdi'IO A\Arlr ~ .$

rne~d Moltl _s PAlTSIH MPfQ 0 Mnt:At .. ..-JCIMG ttRMS 6 FAUIC: Jt.RMS 7

~ntltH GIAINlM q I:Wil 10 8l.ENCMNG,IRUEIHC. ANO (QUAUllNG II SHCIAlltffORMAIIOH II

8olcnc: l.kle lottN 12 S-Gui

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2.. ~,.....,..,_ ftnr,V\N!:" l1l IIUI('nliiC ~'f I If \\tl\1

-l .l.n""""' >-:A~ - ,., ~1"\01\.. - Fbk "'-'L' .......

' "'--Jb ,.., ~ _ \kd\.101(.14 flCrM:II.ll'lt )tu.q'"tWf ll "'

+It lelllli'-'lldn "oc1..J "" p

_ Rt'll Jn~l btuc' 1vlc~ l"~'l'ldh to lklllll\ ~uo:rn dt.lll,!;

Functions of Pottemmotdng Tools Tnof'\ Jl

PATTERN PAPER r~t""' f\IJltf n~s c.'llk numl,.,.~ ''' ln.lk~ltn"1&(~ f..IJ""f-1\(((111 ( "lr-1\ (i~nlft> l.a&: (.~10"1 ICI "lPntlt' I~ I 01111 liu\'\"'l\~hl jUtl('ft\ r.-J'II;'f ll (011!1!.'\J t.f( 1\..uJ.

..... or ,.., f'o'P' ~nd ,, utnl rnn\)nt\ '"' ~..._-.., JUCIC'fTI'.

trrtr(flif ,..,._,,~ t:a.lt 1 kl S lloutlk-lluf' \~run~ l'l')>rr

Usf'ltw.('lt'ht f\lll('ll' c~ ... ~ ,......,. \~ 1\J'('Cf n u'l(t.i k'll' IIUltl'lt IYWt.lngp;~ucrn l'S nJnlpul.lttdh) ''''"IC thl \laih m !lti.'OI.ll n)CI hod II) (h' Jlt; dt'\lj{ll p.lllt;ftl\

IJ~sl~ {lalltrn ~t. A 11\'\'pk'CC fUIIt:m \ol:t, f u.nln~o: . .uultlh' ~uuh~oc\ J:,i\'C an ..C t-c.nmt ''' lt)l.l~.., c,f th(' finhh .. ~l tn.ltl.l.'r. C ,,,.,, .._ll\k:d l''tk'f (U'Ior Oil OfW 'lid\' Ofll)') h;~~ 1\n hiiiC"tH'Ifl~ to lnodk.tiC' ti~ht,ldt:UP ol lhl.' j\.tlltnlt'lc"\('\ .tnd 'of tll lndl(',lt \' lh(' dl~~n dl\'i 'lk'llto "hkh tht' I~Ut'fm L'll"lhllS-.

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FRONT $KIRl

PA11EftNMAIONG ESSENT\Al.S ~ TH: wom

8 Ctlol}ler I

fiQI.Fe 2' AllrgtWlQ rn. ~ To ('R'dl~o:~Wt"' or ~-u-.,: ruu d.r f~wk di.JJ.:(to nalh .It opro&Wtt mch olll.r ~buc. Rtrt'" .It lhf' 01p,,t., t'fKb.. ThiS pm.""t"U htlpl to .1hl:fl the 1.1r.U1:ht pn f'"";~rpiJindt'tM~"''* ,,;un ~wf'ftr thttl J'llft'\.\ l

DART

Trurins. The- bkndm~; .:and m.u~hl\"flli\K ol p:rt~.ll hileS, croo.ft!UrL:lo . .1nd dol mlr\s lot lhlnr. th1,. dtfltrtnu' I h1 .tlht\ltd w.ut1llm:~ an hl('rKit-tl ~ll

sororx:e una Terms Phnnb thu. A '~rli(.ll lint ch31 b ;,t ti,:flt ;,t'ISk'i: "''h tht ilocw.lhtd 10

'-'C'Itotm~ tht b,)Uft(c' ol dw 11urt.

~itulnU.IW' -\ ~til )IJ)t It n$hl ~ tO~OOihtr hint. 1S n.tf\1 11'1t. I \Wtiallinot. :\ lai'IC' ttloJil I:S !.U .. t up ~nd ~n. tft)rilollu.l lint. A hOt" pv.Mid .,,m tht rb ltlsht ~ng.k. 11k 40" ...np- kwnWd b\ f'o"O in-

tmU~ 11M'. tdumf to ;)! .11 yurn/lutt \sym.metric;d lint .. -\

em t l~t~t t11ttl uncqwl proportlllrni on C'ilh Uckollt. Symmetricll hnoc. \ ctntC'I' IUK' volth jWI proportion\ on f'lth\'f side 01 it.

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ll.IIIIII \C'. I hC' f~lkc:l rfllllionSIIIp betW('("n j)o1tiS tll.ll , wht'tl nwuhlnl'd, ((lf!U .. nil (or whO)(') in "ltkll (',1( h 1un I\ In l."\.u1 prOJ){If1ion ;md hann('lrl)' w4th .JII C'lh'l:f\ 1\llllln< h~.g ,, ,._,ucw. F-lndln.g and .l'ldju~t!ng tht dif lrrc-rltt l't't"~" jt.tnlns: JUUC'tn p;nti to impto~ ttk' lung .u1d lit olll'lf' ~:;um('nt

ltC~orironto~l b;al:mt~ lint' (IIIII.). A rcltnl:f' to any 111M' tn.JIM'd ,u(IUnd ltK' ft'I'R thals 1~r.Jlki h'lth thC' 1\101)1 r.auctn\ ,If(' .IJiO tn.lflcd IHih hofl,tont.al b;t.l~ .met' llrM~ Joo.!Wtfd from tlw ('('fll('f l1nn rtptt':St'ntlng tl'k cfOt.\" ~ Jl.a.in "hen 1~ s-arn)tfU b cut u1 f;abo rt( ON' UN lulft I'M'IJI "-t~n ~Llnd"' lhe P'llemS..

. :

Stylellne Guides ~Y,.II(Jt ~. b l'in flMldn't l'l.ttlng .t 'l.trlt\ of ptm ltuou,::h the rnmlln '" fhrm u. -v.alu.-tco ~lyltllrw pl.'lt1'111t"IU \t)'lf' l~pt Ul.u~IIIJ:_ \l)llhll' r.i4\HIIl\'llt tn color oldtM''I~< '"I" lr .1h~t1 do"\!Xfl fto~otUh'\ ~mJ.to pro-\titk .a Ill I r,. "'' 'ft dl\'< l"f'lltiC dt1l1t11 I' 111((11\

The Way We Were Clothing ha, l>tn m:mufa~ tur\"Clln entnUIIy thC' l.tlnc "'"Y

Sin~ thC' IIW('11110il OllhC \\"Will); RUI~ hhiC' \ll the JUidllllll.'"\t.'t'IUh 'ntury. Oklfashto-ntd, l.:lbm;muf.tHn~r ol ,HI)' 'Itt'.

PRODUCTION TERMS FirSt p.lllrt'ft .. -\firSt Jllf'm u thor (lorll:lllJI (lolUtrn df'\dofltd for "1(~ Th00 t\f lin~ mkr rna.' t'C purct'>('d t:hrous,h \t-.."'-""hllrdh 1\rc.\-' In, .

1\.\ril.l ,r ..... tU\t'. nl.k hilt"('. (\In h;J...: lh~ \~"\ I"( l'f\'- ' 1~1 \\ 1-.th'H('I l' \~' \ ' .a._, 1.... \\~t..-: ""~ ,,-bn,, ... ,'OI!l. 't(~ 'll ,..., ... y,a.a

16 ChOP* I

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BODY SCANNING lkkh )(.tnni~ t~;anod~tooltlut l~ps lndtnll)' lft ck'\.;W"K 1tK' bnl )C'I (1/ mt.aw~m for ils CUS tUti"M'fi. n~ bod)' kJII\Rf!'f I~ a hght-('RUIIIIll; ~i(t Uut \.ln IModUtt w::uu ~rou~ to 1/16 h-.ch. Bod)'

~nnin~C t.ll.h 1>&a"ln ;a lx:hLIL"cubl:' .and repfkates the l)llxl) cnc:.a~ur~nle'nh 111 thrtt-dhn('nslonaJ (31)1 fOol nUl St-\'t'f.lllruhvidut~ts, ;as wt'll o:as l:uge roearch lllit!o h.lve IM:C"Il \o'o'Ofk.in~ o n thb w ncept for )'~Zit'S. It ha~ 'conk'~' .age, "'Vt'" though Its full potential has )'t'l 10 bt rNIItC'-'at~"Ch,corn

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JACKET FEVER

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Ill(' dr-~lf.:ntr, ~\\1\tt'(l b)- d('\.i~n worn IX'fson tKI, nP)' ~,).("It h . dr.IJit'. '""' u~ ,, romJ>ulcor or flat ~t tttm ''' crt~t" the '"'' ,,,mpln. A t)'plc.al dt's.agn ,~1111 h tt.afkd th' .tn "''bt.ant dt'loiJ:net". first j:Nttt:m nPt.t1, umf'k u tlt."f, o11ld ~"'''*' m.at..cts. Llrt:,~' ni.IIUIMIU/('1\. ~kl U.t1dK'n, ril IUQdtiS.. .and Olll('r

.11\1\CoJill~ Mch.andl\lfiJt tht' 111M' I) lml:lOCUOI IO'V+ff'd OUI

ttH" ,,,tn th.Jit de r~ \IC41 ,.,,.n. 'fh(< fin.ll Une as """"1' tn ,,,.tt: '""""" '" tht 1ohonf00fn. taken toft'-'"'~n' tl\ tt'''lln~ win f(fl'fe1o('ell.t1i'~ w-nt 1'\.11 ronaputfr 11'1UJ:n to hu)~ .and ~~rod throutth tr.ldt .t\'("fiiWflWflll l/MJ IIUUM( olft 1\('CW

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IJ Form chapter z_ Measurements

and Figure Analysis WHO a tHl s~C)(N..fG.II(t

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"""'IN rOJSflrt' $fANDI\JIOS Of.IWHMfHl STOlE $1AHCWK)S OTHRAJT(MP'fSAl Sf~ A.STM saA,NC~AJtos

r~ Mdyflt1 Jor ~use cw to~JIIiC: \A)ftf!CO!~

f1.IW S!rtlJ) tl~ll'ol)(l"of.tt'\1 ,fAtiOAPO ~fASOII'(MWT OIAA'I

... 35 .35

,, .36 3S .36

WHO IS THE STANDARD IDEAL FIGURE?

She Is n

24 ChOJ)1tf2 PATIERN INDUSTRY STANDARDS

In lfil)(m\(' to 1\ntklclal '1-lllnd:ud~ :md lOrHum~n r\ttds, tht pantm lndu"tl)'t!.tll!blhht I hi! \lt~Mnr m~ru Stil1'W.brd Commllt("(', v.hldt c.kvbtd \h own standard loft of flf:\H~ typt\ and 'bet.. n,r tll.:unpln bdow arr C'Oin~ilt) ol II)( (Ut'm Jndu.nry dells l\lltOO Hgurr tyl)ts by agt and htlgtu Cll~n.. T'ht

me~t.ur~mtnls art listed Orl th~ p.aHtrn tl\\~iopt'. ~r SUI\cbtds ml)' ah~~)' ~ lnflutnc:td by t~ A~riart Sock1y tor Ttstin~ and \tatthal\ CASThl) nd Tr.uiJt ClochmJ ThWkJI&) Cocp's ~I liSA NatW)NI Slu Sunt') mus.urtmtnu.

DEPARTMENT STORE STANDARDS

Ottnmtnc uorH .l.nd ntalog mtn.:h.,ncs such u Stan. Montgome-ry \\'Jrd, and Sptqtl hot\'1' drt\~1. o,lN.I lhf'u own ~rla spttlf~om IP , .. uw,. lht Mtdsollhtlraastomtn. ~U\tOC havtu\fd N ttoml Burtau of StandJr1 \lenS\

26 Cf'. prOC'\"'-"- i t~~~~ tw , ... ,.,.,..,., ... to,., SC":n ttlgoj'l\ ol tht f'tnONI \l"'*'utnoc'llt (.h.ut Ql'"l ~~ I!

tKh troUP ul ~ uJUIIOtt' b .alptuktl.ml tA tbh~ Jt, .and QCh f\$utc '"'thu1 tlw ~our h Jl''t'tl ~ nwnbrt Llrtk dtt' nwr.Mt thJI -'I'J'I'~ to \Wf IJltUrf'. ttwfl ~II uno.:kf tht' .apptopl-11\' kt 1 on dw ~ \k.nuttnWnt Ch.m

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nr.z ,.., """"" ;;;;:;-- ...,..,..~.I \ (.Jv

A' HeOCI Holghi- A. Meosur;r.g Oevlce tOr Comparison

,,,..,.,utt ttw kn~th Q/ yuur h

E: Arm Type$ t. IJNf~ Ftnh ;u"" IJQIK' m ptffl

b.utnOI~)' !. 'IJtPt ~ ;tJirltu;n)('(', 1uth

ptetRI'K'f1t .. .,bt. ttbol\ Jn6 ihnUkk'r .....,_

J. FuSI~ Jlnh )'""'~to t;~ll u~wt 1. ....,. Shouldtt: ~ lu;) tn ~ z. ~ . Crw.~ ~ .l so:YII..mst. l. S#.;~~Jftt lilr. Sl. ;ttt ww ddil'NtiCA. 4 . Wi.k WX'IIUtr l'Ur"',. ...&:5!. s. s..,. ~ ritr~

1: leg Types I tlueuzh -1 ldmtifJtd bl- thai ~

J: Figure Sto~ The modeh 1tM~ JlfitaS lbt ~g ~ Nb~ of ~ttMnts. f'atttm adtus:.mmt ~iD bt ~

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l)~'lllh Ch.ut h~tnw th.lt C\~tf\."'-1'~

32 ChCJplet 2

Preparing the MOdel tor Meosunng Ha'~ ~ ftlrnd u~kllll mt-"urin~ ~f'ld t('('(lfdill$ OJ\ .. COPY ol lht f't>r.sonll Mt;urrmtnt Chlln. jM.('t' .16 lll(' mock!! JhcXdd l'"C'U .a /!Af)"IIJI Of tt.>41ftJ \\llh gu.IM lound.ation SltmfflU: wom uncltmt'Jih

fqnS2c. Re to m.arl.. the hiplln~. Th~ \IJndard h!J) depth Is 6 to 7 ln

HORIZONTAL ARC FOR FORM AND MODEL MEASUREMENTS

Fronf A

Standard Measurement Chart CtiCtiMflJI(r.V'

GrAde':: ,. 1o1 EASVRf:..\ff'~'TS

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911, 10.'1.,

tO.'f, 1111,

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Drafting the Basic Pattern Set OlE IA$IC Oil($$ JOUHI)AIK)H

-o.otng &Ollie~ PontM~~ -~ Mc:Aiol ono Comc:lu* ~

FRONt toOK::l DIAfl lACK I()OIC( OCIAIT

tnctoW~Q 0'1(1 o.a.c.no """' A4 Flt"nNG fHliOOIC( 44

Pottem COffeCIItOn kit N'(fn'MI'l'ICCII Modeb 45

~~ finiNG ntE ,l(CJC\Ifol( fm\HG IHE AAM~tOU $1C1AT OAAFl

SkW"I ffOf'll onCI &oct 510ft 8oc1c (k)f s...n and Sopototes) Flt!IOQ !hot Slurt

SlLf.EVAlUAIION IRUE A.N0 fALSE TEST PQEAARIHG PAntftNS JOA lEST FIT

Mole~ .Joii"*'' Seoms 1Ht: BASK: SlUVE ,

Slto~ ,.,mlnotoov SlfEVE CloSt EASE

Arn'llOI MeosuromOf\1 SlEEVE MEASUA'EMENT CHA~T SlUVE OQAfl .. , , ..

..

..

..

.a .a

"' $1 $2

"' "' .66

"' $(> .$1> .$1> $1

ADAm" .. Sl&'Vi 10 I.N'I.Q! ~ !C101:;i_ Oeer'T'lf'W'tQ Ct EOMl

~~,~o~e

=-t"ocr~ 01 Oeer!ose ""'e Sceol ~ oroeo.a..Cop

THE BASIC DRESS FOUNDATION

lnt,nxl\l(1j(\11 10 p.lllfiiii'IWLin.g hq:lll\ \\llh ttwdt .. fl of ttl\" l;v.sk"drm tnd.ulon Ftwdl'\") tw ,llltl ~\ dtnlit'tUAA1S of cht wnn .uwJ h ttpl\'"~IIU B to 1)1)11\t C, In Utt ii(I)()Unt lndk.it00 1)~. the lnmuCIICitl\. ,\ ~h.ldtd Ulll hnt of the pattern ltluuratC\ tht putpri".C nl t.~dl line d rawn on the drft.

Sug~:mon\ for crxrccllng fuUnJC prohfcm~ ft>l 1~ the lnilrucUon\ ftr dr.:Jftlnsr tht hod!Cf'. thf' d.u1,

FRONT BODICE DRAFT lt\">ftf cho)WI'I nw.awrMiftl.ts in thor ~ ~ ~~~lOW F ft J

-I Cc

f L

I

'A

--,,.10

J

-=----'' Jilt f

F\Quoe 3 I to N N~w .ltrraJ,, plu\ 1/ 8"' (8) _

Draw line from Ito 1nttn:t f. Unt. iN to 0 Sid~ l en g th ( It) N toP Mark I IJ.IIrKh out hom N. Pi:rsooal flt, sec: formull.\ orr adju5t aftu

th~ draft is c nnJ,It t c:. 1'itb JJage 44. 0 to P Sid(" !("ngth line 1\dlr .. 'tted toP, nd tnds

wh~n equ al tO N to 0. nu,w lln1: fr(Hn I' tO f.

Flgvre 4

Compkri11g "'aisr m(ll}.lllc

42 ChOf)t.,J

BACK BODICE DRAFT _..

A co ll rulll~ng:cr (6) -A co C J\ CT'O.J.' .lhould(' r j l 4) Squ.u~ J in(hc-\ \Jowon from C. 8 to D Centc:r lwC'k lc:ds;th (.S) \IMl ~ "!u.llt' out .f l fkf'l(";. B t oE B.act. arc- ( 18), plui 1 -4 .,..h ~upt,...mL

'

H

' "'

-

r-ouro

~Jr::==~---i, C

c

FIQUtO 7 A to I~ Unck n eck ( 12), flhl$ 1/ 8 Inch

U to G Sh tmld tr siO jll! ( 1), fJiu.s 1/ 8 Inch

f h~ II Shoulder l cnglh ( 13), plus L/2 Inch .. I hlt m:ay p.1\\ ( ,, '

Increasing and Decreasing Busr .._.... I dtJft~ with" B cup. Tht , ... cMn c.ln

The ......,.,,'1' $ ,. ~ A C 0 ;Ulll OU flK .._. d U:Sif'd (Qf bu\1 .OOO SpNd .n bent pomt.., loll,_,

CCup J ~ 1ftll:b. D Cup J .f 1ncfl. 00 Cup I UKfl_ CMctr buA" poent

~dan k;t .o\ to) bt ~wJ 10 I

"~>-' 3 AO

0\nbpbwtpotntl'SIDC"h nrt-Ctn:a buSt polliL Shorten dirt I~..\ to t:nx "-llh B.

FITTING THE BODICE Cut .tnd S('l\ the bodiC~t. l"rru \\11hout m.;~m. l'l~e oo (()rm ()J modtftn ln.ti~"U'.Ihr ft .\1\\r) mc.Hurc COO''td am~ .tnd .adtwt the p1ttrrm

Figure 4 tcosr1tt:U: l'in ell~\ Jt bl,a)t to Jcro ,ll 1hClukh:r nd

~o.--alst.

-

,

fiQvte 1

'l't04t t . AOCII

Aoul 5

-

ll,t'''''"w SlrC'15 fol

46 ChQptM3

FITTING THE ARMHOLE .\ "cU-blbtnd ~''"

48 c;hllPIOI' 3

SKIRT DRAFT 1br b.uk .J.Irt tc'l\i!ldllkll' l~.n \("1.'\t.l.l u\M: .n:. Fa)St' t. l)rO'IW lilllkl l~k l ~llt: I tu ll J,lb l'll ,mil l f:! lc1 (: (~ni C'r lt111:k l1l 1~ d CJIIII (2o1i)

r ro~).lmu }: 11x..~t1on . A I (Ill Pmnt hiJI Ill"(: (2-.i), plu \ l/21t1< l1 (('.,1\l')

StJU.II\"d OU1 from A,(_, M\d H t'CJU.illl A tu II. l>f.!W urlltl hum lint J tu It I bM 1 ,,noll

Petsonol Dart Intake Chart ( 11hmlll I J /l~b f)ff/I"Wiil( I r111l I ti.HI Ill" lnt .. kt. II.Kl. I dart- l/. _(- itfl h Iilii""""' f ffcIU 1 ~'-''' I 12 illllilt' ~~..; I do~.rt-t lnt.;,ke. (tllflil ,, l)f/f('to'?lil I' I ttlfll I Wrt - 112 IIH.Ik(' . ltk ~ 1 dart1.-S/8' mtJ~l.t:. l l'kh l>rflc"'*~ I >fft I IJ,o tl - 1/r lcUil.t lbt k.: 1 d.art,_l/4 1111.1U. x. f1f Q.,,.lt IJilfrtnt&t' 1 nlfll td.uh- \ftJ" lnt.l.k(' I)KL; 2 nt ;\rltl h.wt.. I(Uhldhw,, 1.1bcl f' :md q.

fiQui~ 3

0 G

. _,_

' \\'.1.1.\tUnc: flr~"' trof\t .and Nd. -~"'lc' ... th~ \tulk~.,.,. tond 01 ~~ "lo-ut\~ Nk=f hom lo P (~ .. l;.hnd lnlM H to Q ltt'lr.l

\ ,.,... \

....

Skirt Bock (for Sus and Separates) Trace- th~ ~kir11>Jd;. ~lad. th- corr~r of the dJrtltK cfOS($! coetnttrb.kl. Do not Include tht' dartlnl:ll.t fFigure S).

A1ljtut ~Jtt /lrwt.t. M:uk f~r$1 dart lntal;e 1 1/2 mchc-s. Mar~ d~rt sp.t

52 Chal)!er3

~:!fr,~wlnlfSJ.W.tY ftl>ltl ti!IC'\~U\"1' (t'~M,ul!.' t.l) . The $tlrt W111 ptt'U "!.lht tht' lh~Jlh ,uMI IUO'o''t' up tiW tlifl>llc~ "'hl!fl ''"' wl'o~c"

fi!U .Holnt\.'t'~ 0 IX'I fec:t SIIXW ~idt waist and htm from the KBL U 1t doo not. tcdlk musUn o.- r~.-cht

$4 Ch.1114'HI .11ong w:.btllne. m~td~l.ns: m,llt.. c~f t.Jo(ll' l' lc h tM ht:t dati ieg o n iLl rt. Sk1~ 'd"'' ihoutd rn .:n~-1~ If thc-)' do rt04, rtd.et'k "JlUiin(' m(',htn:tnent .s ;md ndlu~t.

1 ~

I --log

)

THE BASIC SLEEVE Tht basic ilct'\'1! b .& nlOU!\1{'1.1 \l('('v~ \IIKhf'll to th~ b~k. nw t.l\~ 1~1d.-li~n w1th the fiO\U\011 of the teLP.c.l 0\lm \\'tl hout r~ud tr.ulig.mM'nl with ttK- >.k WJ~m

Sleeve Terminology Communk.ltul~ In tt'fm \ ' '"' om: bmll1.1r whh

tho~ Ill dc-\lg.n o~od JHodUlttH-n \\Ill http tO .J\''C)Id miwndt-nlandlng " httl prohk-m Mll\'lfljt.

Gralnlln~. ~tf:.I~>IH gr.lln of tht s.ltt\ '(', whiCh tS th(' ('('OICI Of the ~k'('\'C h Ofll top C\f C.IIJ'I IO WI~" k-\~1. lllcCJU IC\'C'I , Widt~t JWIIt o f the \k"t'\ '(' d l\ 'id lng C'.lp hom 1 he lower "'~''t. Slcevt C'liJ>. Cur~l"d to p of the ' k't'W abow bic-ep \ Unr. Cnt> hd~ht. l)l~t.mn frc:un hi

Armhole Meosurement fOJI' I o. 0. oncf c fc) IIK',I \Utt' thl." fr~lfll .1rkl b.)C"i. ,umho l('t.,. uw .1 thin, o,.dbf(' l'l.luit rult tw ld upf iJ;ht when nK':t-wrillg. (llol noc ut(' .11 ~t.ca~'Ul' llf)l:.)

ftc,:tlfd rntJIU~t

figure$ .to. b l'filliN

60 c-3 Meii'M>d 2: fiOX Rute MOOSUJGfTIOOI fJgutttS IO O..~le Rlk IIJ\II( 1_, 1~,. hrklu1ul"ht Ust ~ lf~' Ill; '-"~h~ ruM< n n~fli~IUIII~ ,u(lUUd "If bollh '""" '~s 1~ \ft.l"''t' ;md r~111d Ill thr- 01"~ (II ctw M1fl

........

Co pEase Flgvtet 1 0 ()('I(J 6 Mc-a\K..,(In hm~ll ~tht"f\t. 11\~ '"'~' mllr be thf' ""i~IH nf tiK' fabnc. or l~l; c)( c;onilol uf tht

m.11chl~ '" liM' lulln~''' h \Utdwd lucnmd lht' c:un-~ of th~ arrnhok. 1 he~'\' ('\;;"llll~lk.~ \ht"MUlJI. huw to

w'''~ th(' ..:;ar ~Jo.tni .lr

62 CI'IOI)Jef 3

tncreose "' Deereose the BICeps I , 1111 4\1 tlw- blu~ .lhO lnuN\ol'~ nr C11o1JlS.1fiS I M' \\"' d'ft~~ (;IIJ'I CJ\f'_

'9 frmrfif ,..iT" ~l~Wtf'k 4.J./ I } lfll~llol Nif}'\

TJ>:' ~>t "nod .lll m.ullrt~:,. Lt:lo:nd bi'pf hi'IC' 1 4 lfk"h Ill t".kh adc l"lld $ko(o\1!' .,,h pw.h r-n l'lfl top 1ll th

..._-Alignmenl ~2o.D $b'ai'IM!ttf ao tM No:t c( 1itlk ~ ......,.,.

\I

-

Pott&rn Adjustment Flgu

COMPLETING THE PATTERN -\ ,'I)ITlpet,'d p.JII I."I I'I 11.1'1 w:un .JIIn'l\ollk"' JUII~u nnbnh rn' '-'" IJI ...

1

61

I

I

M'l"!l~t~oftl,~~'t

""""""' """""' A.Af F'llc~W.NG r.tPHOOS rwftf ftAT Pllf'tVN 'IOf'"QUE$ -..-

""""""""' fll~"'.IG flli'M$

/~- ' ?'..t j 1. = I - ' ~~ :... ~ ' ' .. ,

I

Dart Manipulation

(Principle # l ) II'

"' "' "' 71 II n

ttsrm n QrtiiOIIMAot~~ .n CWI'I~AON _7J

""'~Ill .73 ~Do'I~IIQnfO

~P'Ot'41tl'\$ 73 lliorr.tflliiiQft'o>IQ ~ 73 Ow:lrlf'IQOcrllOc:otiOI" 74 Mo:::w.-Abouf OO'b ' 15 eomc.tngltlltOOrl .75 SJNG.U.O,t.RTS(~AO TEOHQUE .11

SNcM In the Pwx:.. 77 Cilf'll'.-f!Ot'lf Wo1U Don .11

Mld~Oot .79 Cttll ,~ NrtO; Oorl . 79 freoc:n Oorl . 79 SIN~IU $(:Atl$-PW()TAl.IRAH$FR JtO.NIQUf . ..eo

Mlcl~.- ()QJI . .80 ~Oott .82 M\ed, w"' I ~'~' \~\J ,uhl \'\'~'\\'til nn.t 1th dllfltd, tl ;m'(l , ;mcllllh-cl .11\d In .11l am "'''"'

j )t.'\\~11\ \llllj,.\' ,tnd t \nlJ'k\ \ IKI \oil\ \ f\'.\h' h\ l\'.lii\11\JI, 11.111'''"'1111\l.ll..in~;,. ""' "'" \\.\11 ,

U, '-"'" ,,.,.,. \r" '~'

I

DAAT MANIPUI.A.l\ON

---1. ~~ f.J1()Nt

\ ,../

lhtl~ a~u~d ltYM ~oc::>~

---

I

l ' \

69

I

'. \

WORKING PATTERNS ~ b.u.lc (Kit'lt ~na lo;;~~f ,....,..., fUtlcctlf drJitetl In c;tuptt'f J Jtt us

72 ChOPI&f 4

PATTERNMAKING TERMS r.w ... rnnl.ll.:ll'l~ tcnn\ .Jnd lhtit d~"finltielll\ 1\111 bt uurod~ whM'C'I"t). hcn. lite n.1me R.t1 p;llltmmJl.lniC lm.Jiw lht. puXf""l.\ throu~th m .. nl tlulr.tlnJI; tht t)!.)U.>d

Charting Dorl tocotlonS To j)WI~,,. (Of rh~ roOIIIowutg p rolft't'CS, cr,lft' ' Wf') tlf lhcl)&Sk' (f j).)Cil'fll n. 11M' guldt-llnt"S~tJtllshrumaln .lfo \'\" br kn"' II~ \lr o~!,a:ht dMI; th..-C r: (nmlc-r front) bu~>l cl.\11 olrkl lf,llj.:hl d;ut olfl' )(JU.1tt.-d ffOIII lht C('OIN from. 1 hC' mkl.:mnh~C' d.:.n h thrtl (rou bul>l t>oint to IIH' .-rmhoh: not

76 CnoptGt4

oort excesslrim~ "Qu'tl IIM.llrl('(" e)(ltch .tnd ('Ut .\dd 1 Jllindl M""m

/rorn J~' t\u'K'h ~eld drciM tl(lol rtquer~l

........

Oort txCO$$ folded f96e4 Th.c u.~mpl< illwcntt'l the ""'n d.1rt , . ,(c~ ~ tbr ~ th(' pk.t, and tbr fi.N\btd pattft'D stR:pe 1be itripcd ~ UJuura:c:s ~IQ o1 ~hot~

Pallem Plot onc1 ~ Foxe

Trxr tht ctQOCd p3!tcm. '\Wit; thteuutt uon~ waut d.ln.. Ubd ~ ~ \ .Lnd J. Draw liaVI. laDe from cm:e inxl! -"-1 to tJv:g, poont

~ ~

' ,. Ch ....

F~3HewPo:-rem9'M:IOt Cl~&.rt tr.pAand B. n~ 1'1~ PJIUt'm on p.~ptr ~nd ~uatt. Ctnttr dart potnl S.ll ln

SINGLE-DART SERIES-PIVOTAl-TRANSFER TECHNIQUE

Thot pi\'01;\ltro..nsitf lt"hnJq\1(' hml~'t'1 ltUIIIJ~oUI.II ln~ tllf'Ms""" worl(ln.: raJtlf'tn llllo J 11M'! "'"Pf b) pi\'OUfl$, Shlfta"' JIUd 1~-in~. ln\-lf'.atl Ol UIIUI~ Tht ,,1>tf,Jnr; pantm h pi.k'

Po1fem PSol ond Monipulorlon

~ \hrk sld~t cbn loar.on K J 01nd u;H,'t' ~lltm from A to C hii.Jikd .tfc

Shoulder-np Dart

Poftem Plot ond Monlpu6oNon 10>'

\fArk lhould('fIIP d.tn loc~Uul\ CC.) .:end u..c..-~nem from \ to C: l\h,l4Jc'd .:u~:l).

..,_.. , .-.,,., ___ _

c

f w Jst d3rl :Uld OIJ)Ct1S S~' for SIMXIld(rIIJ) dMI). 'tr"t' ttnt.a.nlns p.aucrn.

....... ,

(~

t A

Figure 3 ~w Poltecn ShOpe R~nKWc Ptt

f9JMZ

j u 8 f".m. lmnA tbt ~utmmal:inJ:

thnlqut"\ lndiUtfod Aft(f ("lith IUIItm b ro.nplt:-1~

Consistency of Dort Angle To pro\~ that thl.'

TWO-DART SERIES-SLASH-SPREAD TECHNIQUE

t\ '"'(k!Jrt wodJ.1Jt 1'-'tttrn i"JI~t .and Wk' d.lrH ,..111 ~dt\~ f and I.U~\'1, I lJ.f lndW\ from b11U !'l0il11.

nw \\,1!11 and \l,k cL1n JUilctn ~h6Ukl bt com 11kt~t tlll I.Jg tlll'l.lrd p.l(X'f ili ol Je uwd ,H a I)Oa\t' (Of Olht'f designs; ,.n1.l Mun~'~ p;~th.'fn,. lor pr~iet" ol JPihtn, tuck-c.bru. .uld n_,~

Poriorn Plot ond Monlpukltion FIQur 1

I I'dOIUt\,

Flgtvfo 3 ---'\

rRONT

to 111'2

1 8u1t l)l)lnl I >~

CART MANIP\Il.ATION 91

fv.;re 4 fotrlin,~ !).1tU;-SfJ.. 1~11,. 1 h~ me-r !old li-H to\,ard th~ wai~. w.,ru Datt;

Thr .. ~ ~

,,. ' 0

3 .__

1 ~ ~

\ ~J\1 '1(',111\' ,\S 'Sh~\'1\TI l'mt.h .u'tl.l nl\k' .-n- i'lb''-..J 1 ,: u~h 11'\'111 the d;ut l"''IIH

1(-..t fll; \ l\11111\'ll'tt "~'\lt Nl Ul(' :,)$J. t~'lf Nil'-"' mu\ltn.

,l\..,1 oil 1u"h (\Wl-'~'lt~ !' lht' lt\'lllt -'lt!J 1'\l\ l. I'JI '' "'''""'Jr. ,~,'14 ll!u-.trJt\"1.1 ~

92 ChOpter.t

Mid.$hOUide< and Wa>St Dart Design AnofYSIS: Oooi9" 2 ~1. tl~shoukk'rdart ~~~tht."~ldfdatt 111-r ~un can tit' U)l.od 3') a 3o(':~tnkit n~)ft..[n,; ilolltttm

Portem Plot end Manipulation 1'0> 1 T~ plttem: nurL bu\t po1nt ,uW mkjthoukl,.r

l>mv. a $11th linetobuu point from mtd1M\11dtr andfromdlrt po1m of tho:- ikk dJn tobu\t point.

' '

""'""'.

I I

J \. -

I

fiQus,h, bt1SI l)()lnt rrom 'twuld.-r M1d \kiC' dlllt (hlng4!).

Cui

'

fllOHI

.... ...,.

Flgl.d 3 New Pattern Shope t:kl"'~ d.lrt leg\ '' and It , . pc.

lr.K~ IIH. jlaUCfll, (tntcr the d,lfiJ)(IInt 1 Inch ( rom bu~t point.

llr,tw d:ut leg~ tO m.w dart 1>0int.

IroN I

~ I" g

(i

,.,.,. ...

Mid-Armhole and Waist Dart

~~~ (L~ \ /--..... ) \

I

Design Analysis Ooraw J tlaih Ill~ to buu pc1lnt horn mk.l . ;umhok'

~rut from dJrt llolut of the 1ttk' d.ut to bllil point.

fftONl

SIQshino' .. '

8.\J II l"''))n! 7' lobOt dO!Iti'IO\

-

C>AAT MANIPUlATION 93

"""'" 2 C ~~~ ')la~h lirW\ to, not throu~h. bust point brtnA dart 1t'IP '' ;tnd 8 to~thi'r. Tape.

f9o,lf(lo 2

I >&~\

I I I

Figure 3 NeY. Po-em 9'Qle l'btt on p.lpt"t. TrOl~.

Center d.lrt potnt I mcb l-n'lln Mt poitl.t Rt:dnwdart It,~ to..wtf'C'lnl.

' ~ s

t ~ ' \

"""

\. l

94 ChOPW4

TW0-DART SERIES-PIVOTAL-TRANSFER TECHNIQUE

Mid-Neck ond WOisl Dart

Do'o 1 PI!Kt JlaU-.'tu on 1>:1K'f with JlU(h Jl1n thrc'lut.h

hu(t 1>olnt. i\l:ul.. ' h

96 ChOP*. wo t Dart center Ftont Neck and IS

Oeslgn AnOIVW o.s.gn 6 Pollorn PloC ond ,_.,.,.,..

~ panCin (lfl ~ wtcb pu..tl pn th.rnu$ bu\t poml \1.tt~ untCT 1ron1 net~ C

\tnt ~ll.1.1rt kill .uld tr.tet to ptMnl C

.... """' ~ ~y J i

1

A

-

fiCpe 3How Po"em- 1 ~'C' plll('fll; 4nw ~n ~ 10 bust poin

Ctnter cUrt pottU 1 I nth horn bu~ olu~ redr.aw k-p tO cUrl t>Oinl

fAOt~l

I '

DAQ1 MANIPUlATION 97

SELF-EVALUATION TEST t , lkwlop ~'W.lttt'ftl1 kit the follOwing dolrt ~lion\ u\olnc ltM" p.aucrn.nu\.m; tuhniquo ind!Gltcd .\fm

pantorn~ lui'~ bttn ~'dopfd. fOld ln 4.br\\u1.cll11tw nwttl dldc .cnbtdon pol# IOif"tgllttS b. b.~nd .lnd waist llgult ), 18\' q\ Cenh.r front neck and waist Bgurc f, P."IW ~h

t-i\'04"'1~ Trotn!l.ftt Ttc:hniquc: ~....r;n,e r .. rrmr Sl>opn [u """'""'....,

Sldt dirt ~nd "-hr Fagure 3, P'~t cu \tld\huUJckr and "'es are llluilfllhllll~ rellll(' to lht dt'"l~s. ChOO')t' the corrte1 p.m.:rn shatH.' lof e.)(h design.

3. IXvt.'lu1, 1xutcrn s.h

96

Designing with Darts

(Tuck-Darts, Pleats, Flores, and Gathers)

I'UAI ,._

GAIH(AS

----~CI-fl(lnSI ~~ OMT ClUSfl~ AHO OMI touiVAlltff.S -c...o .. OortCMtet TVC:IrOOrl Cbl .. Pl.to!Ck.ISfel'

~Ciu,f9f Cont9f ,fOOl Bust O.iilef

GRAOUA1t0 AND RAIXAnNG OAin$ GIOWoted Oorts l'kkio1nQ Dol IS

.. 100 100 100 101 101 102 103 103 104 105 105 10.

.107 . 108

.108 1()9

PARAUll OIJHS . , , ..... 110 Prot

1 oo Chapter s

TUCK-DART fi0!elo ,\ tud.od.lrt K o'l j)lftbl~ ~itdwd. ill\'tMtd ~It

matl:td 17\ .a punch hnlt :.nd C'ift'lt" ,lk)n~ tht ~ 1Mold :.nd 1 .IS Inch i.midt t~i;llt

102 ChOPI8f S

- --

Agol'r\'1 hl ~ -4 ill\ I lrt\111 lllift I\'.:' l).uh rU,I\ " , .It \\,lhtllrW fill ,1 \lhmllhl)\ \II" I

C. nud-dan dlU-t~trl lind fiJure 6 !plor:al dustctl

,.,,,,.

' .. ~ '

Dart Cluster Agt64 q,.,.u~" fl'u\tll hok I f2 imh from cttrt f-"111'11 .uw1

c.rc~l4. !"Oich p.mrn,lncludu'l~ dau ~" nr.:.w gr,Jinhnc.-. fiJI OOU< biwk ft>r W~ot f11

~~:,: d.ut 4.'"\~\ tow,)rd ~mer front (:1110\"' ptll ttm to (llj'U. \\',li~tline wUI bt' l lllt\'t'll.

l>r.lW bkndhl.!( !InC' xrOU waistline. DrOlw SC

ShOulder Clusler

Pottern Aot ond MQn.puklhOn Ague I

T L')tt t~IC bodKt' Mul. mid-shoulder .ln4 l.lbd bn kg,1 \ .Jnd B Draw .1 sWh li:n.: frr.m mjd-1;ho.'JIU!ckr to bU\1 poi n I . Squ.ate..a guideline 1 J. 2 1nd~ abo\~ bu\t pc')lnt. Ora"' po~l'

GRADUATED AND RADIATING DARTS tir.~~lu.m'\1 d.1m .-r~ ~ru ul '~f> ing: 1-tnsth "ithm ,1 ,;.roup. R.kJI.llh\3 d;UU $J)tf'.-l OUI (miatt') front .liO. t'al pcMnt ln:. l).ll.lnd .-rr.atl$1.'ffl~nt .:.nd N>' 1>1: ol tht' iamt (If :1 jtt;tduJt< lmnlnln~ t'WC$S belnt: ,1bs0rbtd br Lht dart dM est trl~ fM,;houkkt lint- Th' lon,;f'l .Urt md5 ~t buSt lt'\-d.

Pottern Plot ood Moniputotfon figUre 1

Tratr hodl" ffh lhh.1..

O~w dan legs., fold and blt'nd 'ihOUkkJ_ COmpk-C~ 1/2 inch st~mJ.. Trim fullnt t.brt kgs to \\1th1r1 112 uxhot sam lint . \dd IHIIll.-h .Jt ll'L.

.... 2 1/2 1/2

c

h A CJtlll

j 8 .

' (j

Radiating Darts

Pattern Plol ond Manipulation Rgure 1 Trace basic J>lltu:rn. L.1bcl d.ut legs A ~1'1

Design Anoty$1$ Oe$1gn 1 Oni~n 1 felturts cut\('(! lnd pat.o~l!~ I f rc-n, h dan ... rt.Jtl ~f~:r wal~tand sick dJn tn tht nmnl d.ut lint'

J ~I l

PoHern Ptol and Manipulation ~IOU' 1 l'r>kr cw0oo1.1.ut front boc.IK-e pattern.

l)r.aw t'ut\'Cd l),~ra llcl slnsh lln('S from dMt points t~ ~Ide on ~1own. (.ut tUtrn from INIJ)('f

,_.,

'"""'

FigUre 2 Nww Ponern Shope c:ut \111~h lint., to, not through. dout points.

(:lu-;r skit ;\rd w.,ht d;uts. U\JX'. lrlt."t l'lltc:m o n fold.

1\d

PorOIIel Oorts-Cope Effect

Pottem Pfof ond Monlpulofion. Foguoo I

1)~ JMtiCfll, t~tcnd shouldt r I 1/.f incht-S. I1Uol\ \"nk.ll Slalh line~ up from dlln polnh.J~f

.1111~>1 ~vlth tht' ntt'r front. Msrk bust pohu. 11r.ll"' .a C:UI\'l'd II 11'-" lrorn txt ended si.0\1 ld('r untl I

it intt:nt'Ct\ willl \..-nical hnt from tht si~ d:ut. On~o. 'J"'.rlkl rA"' .11 p.l,.Jiotl t"Un~ hr'W' few tht nl .hnt. Cut from ~Pf1 &nd t:rtm ntdJ.Jnt.

......

1114

oes;go Anolysis; Design 3 )hl.i.te'd dJns o:ttnd bC')'Ond si'UUkk'r ''t'- Unth holn. .Wd s.r.ainline- :.nd st".tms as shown

._. ,

"' Jogsoom

Pt.rich ~Of") r~O(J ut~JM

dr.t~Jf'l(:~ t.o,een !Jolt poont or4 worn

r~t, I(){J ,c .. opnrl .

r ' l

If "'

I\ 1" '

.

\__'.:...---. Clo

ASYMMETRIC DARTS Al\'n

1nwukct.aru C'fMS ct-tnN hont of tlw-s:a~mc"' l'lllttrn -th:ar~ts \\ill ~h:ul~t

1 14 coopter s

ASYMMETRIC DARTS Mvrnmeukdare:scr~i flttr front olth\' ~'""'"L l'~tt~;rn ihllJH't. will ch.ano,'t' t;)(UC~IIy from th:u oi tilt work-ing p.llltrn Asrmnw:uk d.~rtt require t.JX'Ci.all).)llf"' lundljr~.g nnd 1""-'ntiOcation. :1< do ;all d~IJns th d.lll's uniq" Wpt .:md loc:ation fiH inch

116 ChOPtel 5

Asymmetflc Curved Darts

t\ ~~ ~ '~1 '-41 (~{ "1~4 ..... ~I\ }~h ~ 10)

\ I y ~, ..

\

Pol1etn Pk)f ond Monlpulotlon f'C1J'O I n.t' frC)nt fl3.llt'rn on foad, tt.llufenlng W;}ti-1

dnll' tn mkhmnhOk' kM:'~tion. Cut and unfold. l)f.ll\ ,1 ouY .. 'I.I lint' from bu~l r)()int to w~lst. llr.lh .lplll.' .md tr,tu~ p;mem. ( tnh:r tl;ut polnh 1 h tC:h hom bust point, Draw d.UI fl11.1. l..tiX:I riKhlildtUf).. 1\dd w;~m,. and gr.1inlhl~ Cmnjllth" J~IICII\ fOIICst fll,

OESlGNJNG WITH CARTS 117

Asymmetric Dort Vorlotlons ~l~;ns Mt' f)lo)(.ll

INTERSECTING DARTS lnttr'k'Chllg d;uH h~tnbl

120 Ct'IOpler .$

,..,., Style lines INlftOOUC'hOH 122

Ct.ASSIC~SM.li,.M 122 0::J-= Pfw'lc$MntVO.IOI

122 Ch(Jp!OI 6

INTRODUCTION S.\h-hnM 1~11 1111f'UJ.u N)(: for t'lthrr ., . .;:n \..n.lll..,nt \t.tml "'~ ~ "'' "~~dr I Jll ll\klii'W" U !""-"' I !St

' '

I

OosJ;n AnotY~ols IIH' C~"il jlflnu) h dhllnJ:ultl('(l b) :t '')'k-littt lh.at 1o11t .II IlK hcrU ;md bad. ''/liM darh, contln nt ,,..,., hul JIO'Inh .11rul 'ti:tC'J.. 41X"'itlon o l daH l""ljlfl l loU1 Ul\ lr hflt>fOl(' ,hk'firlt'). n f!C)U I r tOM 8oclcO

h'C' 11\.,U (1( '"u-d.Jin J~ltnn l>r~ lhklhw hllm nttd"IIOUkkt (in liM "ilh

Nc:l \ttnukkr ""'U co ~ po~nl .110\J from ~ Jill>~ Ill ltHJ..Ift k'Jt ;U hJhl

( ll~\J1Uit. f(M C>IW "lfftJOI I~ 2 lnd~ ~,..., . .o~~nd bt'..,.._ hu'-t p.Mnl IJt.l"' ~h hfl(' fr(Offl bu\t polnllo ~~~ porn! of 't\k c,brt

Jo-- I

fRONT

7" I

"-::::::::::::o--\sut-1 polnl ,

Figure 2 S8Qorote PottCMn ~~~~','.'t~~ .. ~{~ lnth h"m hmt Jlllhll lflth' ~"16\'flt

( IJI and \("jl;&r;toh' ~ltt'm

Fo-te 6 Q>oonol Front Panel 5nOPII'IO To ,.h;lJW' fmnt j'IJIJl('l , 1'1~ Qd( f"'llC'Il'ln 111ft c~

rronl ~rwl. nl.ll('hln~ ,~;~I" and f\U\IJirlllllt~ TrAI ~kk pl11tf ('Urn hlllltll fUitellrQJn \\ll\1 ro 1~ Rk'nd. '"'QI.C'n lint ""1''~"'\('111\ c~or~in.1l loNrt C)! fmn1 fUM1 ""' f'o'ltrm mkl, rm.ath Ad,uC<

I Closslc Princess Stylellne Vor10tiOnS 1 h(> fonm'"!nJ: ~ljtn\ ,lr(" h.l~.,J on tlw tl.l'~' p"nct".''\. .ifffn;n(' r"'tten kr lhdt~ cv outt.lor:.l~C' t~ rrot"ll"'''::IOI.i ~n .a:o!;un..

'

'

1 26 ChoJ)tet 6

ARMHOLE PRINCESS STYLELINE

Desogn AAo1ysoS 1bc JIIT\i'df PflnttU dttlp h 01 \OIIl.liiiCin ctl tJMo cb))K JIC'Ifk't nut ~' lh pr.111 1t)khrw tn~lt~M "'"''- pl.lclna (uldrl nt ltlfn t ""'"""'" ltJ m .J rmhdf

Pottom P$01 ond Manipulation f~ lffOnl

lr.l.' .uul nn 1u.uu ,,.,u,tn l>t.l\\ lirte frfltn "',11\t ~nd ''de doul point} IO bu~fl. 114 nuh hom b\1\1 fiOin l. l.abcl X. I h .. ",. ouo.lghl gukl.:linc from bu\1 point 10 mid

.umh~IC' 11".,\.ltl('ln CO'IIl 'at) along arnd.oiC'. I ,,,., ... I ~ In~ h \Ill .1t mklpojtn of f!Uick

()o '

wnl;tt .. !n' t1f c-.-.ch d,,l,:n. If lhl")' do n(M, kX'.ltC' thC' llfllhl,-m ,uul tr> .Jt;''" \\ t~n pl04tlng the p.llletn , r~

n~tmhtr tt .. ll lin ;m: drawn Oil tht> ~ocl..lng l\o111Cfn ... ,.nth ,.\ too, ap1~.u on tlw dot~ign . 1->e' ;,>lop thot d~ \lp:n' U\ln~ Ill\' IW0-1.\0ut pilU('III, (J\(t\7md S.Cudt'OU m.H \~.1nt to \IW' tht ,uruhof(o llfhKnl p.lltern.l

PANEL STYLE LINE Pcnetn P\ot o.nd Monlt:>U'QHon Figure$ I Ot'ld 2 I he j'IJnel ll)'lt'l\n(' I\ IM.ol .1 ll;an \"\1\lh.lkm bauw It dtx.":l not p;m tlllou)th tht' hu\1 j)(ltflt 1 he t\htlnR d.1rh tontrollll ol tht ~t-mntnl

oeslgn Anolysls 1lt\' p.md \ lyh'lhll' \' \tt'llih th~ln th\' ,, .. ~,, h' mt~l

lflllh~1ll' \l thl' II\IIH "'"''"""''"din \\llhllt 1'1.'" intt thr~1U.I{IIIn'' 11(11111 \ 'h\111 ''~k ,urt ''"'"''1'1' tlw 1).,111\'1 ,,.,.1\'1111\' 1 lw t\;lnt1 ,,,.._ IUh' ,,m .,. ' .It'\! 1,1 "'-'"'' 11tlt\'t ''l'l~n'

Tnct- front 0111d back c~n p.l1tt'fns and 11 nurLmx~ lr.k'C: front and ttl pomt-rns. Dr.a"" \b$h bt'lft to ~~ li'O'nL \t;a.rl mtl.l.umhok loatJOn. Dnw J,J~nd Mltd&nn from~ lind md l 2. ~ndl from fmnt and bad trui.Hrmhok_

Ornt ll tun~ ll.nc \0 tbt ~

'""'

.

"' i

....... ,

'.

'-

fV.IJtltrn toe tntlh

Fqwe 4 '

\ . I

132

Added Fullness (Principle #2)

ADOIDJIAlHlS5 NIHC'Pll r1 rtoo. '"'*of AckNd ,~ ~lvJOeOf"*"-i '\Avll on !he Ptonoeu lJ'WI

,,......01os.m...,._~..., Adc*l ,~to 0 Oorllf!IQ

Go~Mn on o ~cot ,~,Jo~ts ~ '"*"' ... OOitQn \OIOt~

lkOUSOH ~fiON

--l!lovton ""~'1'\ rnc:~ r.....-.o.

Ill Ill 134 135 1)0 137 138 130 140 141 142 143

... ' - - - ----- -- ~- ---~--- .. _

AOOEO f\IWiESS 13l

ADDED FULLNESS: PRINCIPLE 112 l' rlnclJ1lc. lc' lm rNw lulhh''' In "jt.llfn(m tn o1n an~ant gu.'attr l~n l~ dan ~Jo.to~ ptMIdts, tht ~!Ph Jllld/ot "'ldth \\ ilhh1 tht' t"NIItt'rn'' 1.-mt m"'' br lntrt.tl~od b\ \l,hlng&nd ~prtachng W'htft'fu\lMl, b fM'C'd(td c"' .... o roll111ry. Addlns;, to II H. '"'''ldt '" I he ~l;l.lt~ 1n\ han~ lnnta~ thtmount of fabnc tn 41 p nnrm and u n chanxc.liK"" 'UhO!.(Ut.

Three Types of Added Fullness To ldl.l f1.dlnn-\, Hk wort.tnr; J'IUtm '' lnnulofd In ont or tlu' " .. ~.., 1 QliOII I h lllnt'\\ ()jlpl'\ltt ~ of ,\ p.tUcm Aft 'iPft'.-1 f'QW-11), ii"K rt.l\lox tullnt""~ to 14-P ''"' hc~nnm

I l \ One,hl~l fulhl\'\\. One \kk of o1 p.tUcm h ,,~rc:A1 tO IIH.U.'.IW fullnl'i'i, f(lrlll illJ: ,1 11 .U~ \hJilC oil tht ll.'lp and htMtom

ldenlif)llng Added fullness f-ullnh) from tht' 1"'""' dllll I\ aiM ,I\'\ dlrn-tr"liiC' I hi; mnr Jhtoh.:ampf(' 111.1)' rcqulrt tnrJrr fuiiM\\ tho~n l1'.1ll.y,

c~ly \\0\'ffi fabrlu l:~n~ 26-inch \'J.IIl\1 a\ "" C"Xamplt-, o~ddtd fullnt-n m.ay ~u..~l: Ont' and 01\e-.half 11m1:11ht mt,.lf('fflolfltiU.~

n !9"t lwn lirnn tht lnt.t\lllffflf'1\IIU'J 21, SZ~I I"-O "'na ur)(' hllt1mn tht ITk'"'""' mt nt 1ll!' u n oc.1

lfJ hdJ) IRU'I ttiC' f')f' 1ft 'VIW.I Ml dJift-lr nt o~m111nl\~f fulll'lriL\, fll

136 Ch(lpr@l' 7

FuUness o1 0 Semi-Yoke AbOVe Bust

.,..,.., 1

Pattern PkJt ond Mor.pvlobOn FJt> 2

I

_)

"

Gathers on o $1yle Dart

'!!)

-t_ .... '

[)ejjgn """"""' [)ejjgn I lbt bu")t potnl k 1 1nc.h from lht' 'lll)ClnJI .._,., .. ,ton. Ttk ~tl'wn J.t\" \J.Irtt'd """ ln.m th

t 40 ChOP'" '

' ~ ~ '~ 0'""?\ "I \

' '~ '

~: I

BLOUSON FOUNDATION A hklt1w.n h .1 bUklw)tUl"'K'

142 ChaPter 7

'VJW I

\l,,a\u r out 1 llllndu~ Of rnon at fto n l ;aod b.n r.. ,kl~ ~nh Oraw Uuc. I rom hem co .llmh~l~. ltliUK' ddf' cbn of front, (okl d.ut and d raw hot' lu'nl ttfm IC) oumhok (~'t' 1).1~~ 10).

{ (ntf'l

-

1 ..

Yokes, Flanges, Pin Tucks,

and Pleat Tucks 'f'Ot

BasiC Bock Yoke-PtvotOI ond Tronsfer 8.Jci. \ ,-,lt'\ ;nt dc\'C'klfltd "lthout " ' hnuldtr l,i.Ht 1 a'\~ from the' b.KL ~rt ~~ u~nUnt\'\l t

Bock Yoke w1th ActiOn Pleat Poflern Plot ond Manipulation Figv'e 1 {_roiWlaJl,B:! lf'l.itKPk'\tl~'ll \tUJic"\1

\&art..() J i.rdll'\ fmm (._ lUll ';m I>UI"' hnt fwm 8 II('Jt) tht an. pl;~(t(l 2 1/Z lnthn In hom tht ;umh~~ at the yol..,.-tinf'. To \1'-"\('klf' thoc )'t:llC'IIIiC, 1\!ltr tO IIUU\I'CIIOtU gi\'~n on Jlo.l~ 146, ~~UU.'\ I , 2, l, and

---"""~ ~I """1 . rna tr ICIC .and * " Pll1trm nn~..-rnn tht

\booldn dan t 1 the ~ \tart. \ 1 UKh from front .lnd '*" ~kirr up ,...., .. ll _,..., ll"' ttvftl \idr ...... c

~ \UI.h llnr t,.. 'tJI tu1 ~ pl.tc.c-rtk'nt (_utfnnnt h;JII'I P'ptt

l I

,

f.gure 2

A

fJ!ONT

j l p

u

l ,

f911'.S 3 01"0 4 ( U1 \ l.,"h lim" IIIMII A IO, n~ H\mUJ:h, 8

1~""~ em JliiJ)t:' and \l"

Flange Inset Do>lgn Anolylls: DosJOn 3

,1-- 1 NNU.od ~ inS('nln a: ;1 'h.)r!('tl - " n.1~(! "'' ~ tkm c-4 f.tbrlt into tht> IIO(liff

"'""'"-ond ~ion --2 Trxr trent .and bkL J'll-ltftn~ ~wt. A I tnd1 hem '"'"' .and ~ din ~ "'

.. -.. ril-\l.ul; 1 1 2 md'lln frn111 lrtWU .trW twL 1-tk.._.l dtT tips. On" Jbsh bnt tO rontl('(t ' .and

,~ , 10 1 ~m,cth kv uocn .and bad. tt..ftl;f ----~-: ~ um~.,... bkno,tr~ t} ,&,1-h linn II \llrt ptbtt tontz61 f)l:'(~hn '' front Oli'KJ b.KL "'-..a.J\t 2 \nlchn, '"""' Ut\

l)l;lW J:r:tlntlnt.'\, a\ ~~~~)wn,

IIACl

I -

)

- I Rgu

'

I

/ I

""""" I

Deiign 3

J'

VOII I

Oolgn AnolvJs: Ooslgn I

ll\'1f~n liCJ IIII(\ p1~~11 Ill

156 COOO'tll' 8

AgtA 2 Ar:>ttii'IQ rueu 01 l/2oftch Wd lh Jndugn~ TucL pl111nf'IU ,lnd h ll.t' h tk"\C"IOJX'tl (In a 1'-'f'C" r ;m t'rn Orot" .tllnt 1 111Chb hom lhC" p~(IM\ ro~ \UJI..Ihf' ~~~.idth ot lilt' flnt tud, ou 1 imh

\lark "f''1.lgn Z (c.atul~\ J'l4n hl('lo.) In~ bib"''"' l)in tu( lo.1. ;u \' 1>l:.~~d will\ 'I\JC'1.' hct"(\'U th~m ,

flgure 2 l)taw fout \(!h nf p.u.lld lhtt'' t /8 lm_h \\ldl.

fm 11"~ tud;. lntlllo.~ ,lml 'lhl' ~ ,..,

tht hkl.. h'IIJ.,_ Jii'M! t~""

\ I & I

Contouring (Principle #3) COHt~ I'II'NCIP\1 ll

C......Ooog-. 19" .......... GO'~

f"'""~ THl CONfOUt GUOf. MOlRNS

~f'IQ ... Cot'tJour &.toe ~err. ~...,. Olofhol !he Holow N005

ond Chart lhl PIQIemJ GUcM6ne 1-C~oot NK~ ~2-cutouth~ GUdotlne l-AimhOte Ease

~4-(tror~ ~ ~ContOUI&elween the llu$1$ ~6-$1!()C)IeM DePQns

~ Slor>t and Ski& Ease ~7-8oc;k How 10 tho tht ContOUt GUoe Pottefnt

IH( CLASSIC EMPIRE [tT'IP"O W!rl'l Shiri'Od Modrll

Sll!fiUC( (Oit WII:A.P) DESIGNS Pott01n tof toll Sldo PottQfn lof mQht Side

OfFo&f.OUI.D(It OESIGNS Goll'llltrOd~l

HMI(P$ V tk I"Mf'>f

1 .. 1 ..

"'' 100 161 161

162 162 162 16.1 IM 164 164 16$ 16$ 166

"'' '171 173 .174 .174

115 '175 .117 In

CONTOURING: PRINCIPLE #3

Contour Designs (:ontom d\,lgll ' IOIIO\\ th~ !IUUUI Ol thr tl(ll.h t.lth{'r th1m hrh l,ttlnll, th~ twllow .HN' ,lJll4.1ml thl. bul .lUll 'lwuhl(t h iJ

INTRODUCTION \1\k-hl't\"' llltnh 11\~ d.t\>IUUUtlft\ tl~oW' IIIII UU" rnrt thol' lttl\1 .l !W IIIrloU1Jp.iltrnl 111\.ap!>Jot.d.ar b.aW tur nthC'r.S."'I,tn '""''101~ w .. rn, .1n .-.11-nl .n ill J:Ut10" """"'''' lht {t,l\\lC flllltt'\\ h tiJ\tiiiJ.:,Uhh('d I)' "' \t)~IIIW th.tt ,,.,., .,1tlht lumt .mel!~ I. nahl d.tll .... (Oftllfl 111"1 fAt! !IIJ~I Jlfllll\ .. ml \htKtl

ry.nt (I~ fl(lt'l~ F\lrWI ~~ lu -h.it" rnnt f'll'lf

"''"' J'lnci IYIJoh hlnj; "J.Io.C ,)lloll'lllt t"-'"'" ft.ln: 'i\k j\Jtld ~VI\;" tt lr.,nl J"'lwl fhWII t.,)l\4 '" ~-u.- Nrn.t lnI.C'ft lur ''J"C''.,.:nl' u~uul Wf"' 1 'C tnU I"'"" t .. n.IJlllh'fft Ur)lktnuth I -Wt"-\1 t~ ''"'"'" fl

ARMHOLE PRINCESS STYLE liNE

oe.;gn Ancfysd Thf' Mmhnk' rnnu'il \,1\--.,il!ll I) .. UUJIItotl Ul tho~: d~)~ prn~"'' .anJ f~:.atum .a'" khnt .md ~OI.hnt: ~ 2.'1'!'tholr If pltld

\C'nltk,m of (.kh dt"'lf:n. II the")' do not, toc.atf' thf! fll'tlllrlrru .uultl) tS.Jin. W hc-n r'oUh1$ 1hf! ~Utrn. ~ llk'l'lll:ltf that hl14'' ~rt' dJII\n un HK' wCNkir~ PJ!Ut:rn t \~lh ;a~ thi"V olJ'J'It'" on til('~" l>c\clnp tht (iot-

\~Jtt~' U\IIIK tht two.dan j'WIII~rn. CAdi'IIOCtd St\ldcnts "~' '-'Ani I(! \1\ot tht .lltmholf' ('lfirn:m paltMn.l

.,.,...,,

PANEL STYLELINE

Design Anolysls Tlw 1,:u1d '') ldlm " 'kmh hom tilt',,,..,, hlmlll ,1rmh(ll(' of tlW hi1Ut.ln~l h,,( lr. I~"Uu 1\Ul"'~llJ\oi\\ In~ t iHOliJ:h bl''' Jll.lhU \ 'h\nl ,)de< \IJn tntttnph thl.' ft>~lld '') li.'llm. 1 tw J\lntl '" ltUtl\' ,.m 1111. '.utN to ( ,,.,,,,. ,,thfr dt'!Jtn'

Sl'II.EUtUIV. \LII'Ioh I~ tO bu'lot pot.nt_ 'bt\ rnld..umholot knuon .,,.,.._ pand u' lie-bon fmm "~.and ('l'ld l121nth hom hont ~ bat'l. m~tnhrol.t-

O.o~~v..&nm~bnttothtJ~

,.,. \ L.- .1-...-''""" __.

VJ\ I ... . u

JolOif ao.;rce

,'"'-..,

~ I

{ ..

r.g...~ lfl rl,mltwk thor Wit w.am, pl.wr ,,..,. h.nl lind 1\tc~ fl~OI h 1~rht1' &n

Added Fullness (Principle #2)

ldenhfy1ng Added Fullness hd/lk' .. l fi"'IRI lht bi'\IC" dltl I\ ~j",U' lliU"t h'\l lltllk' lltl" l fh~hllt'. dl.q:m t.UI IIC" kltnll l itd "' ll.l\ In,~: ..:I.Jf\1 tullfl('\\ 11 tullrW")"IV\\C'\ thl!lll~ll ' ""' hn~tlh till "uhh (If ll~..:.tunC'f\1 tlo,:tm II, Mo I It"ll I ullin"\\ '' tlort,tN .t~.1\ trnm Ill!; 00'-111 i,CIAh !I. ~11,1 \\hrfl It~ tt.tmw'l11 c:\u1uh t"",.oo ,, ... '"u'''"' " ' thr IlK'"''

l~ll: 11 lulhN'\\tnn rrlt'-11 m tiM toemul jC.llh-('n, ('k'.tt' drotp'. ,,.,., 1~ ,,. tbrn '''""...,',,.,I~~~; '"' IJ'I\ hcJfll\!ftl .lll ur h'RKJil . olf .II

136 Ok'Jpl~ 1

Fullness at a Semi-Yoke Above Bust

P

~~ \ .. ,

o...on AA

BLOUSON FOUNDATION A blouv.o I htiM) '''I"P"" prmr 111 .. uh '" v t1'Nnc m-wt ... ,t f~ hdow Ult ~ 1l)e. ~ Tht blou n:: 1\ tH'Itrul)td thotWtn pl.f

'"'' O.CMO'

\ttliHt" flU I I 112. lndH'\ 01 mort'~~ front a.nd IM~ ~ \1(.1. \t'otlfl\ l>r.w. lint from h~m tn.llrmhok.

lcllfU~ \Jllc< d.11r1 tid frul\1, fc)Jd d1111 .1nd drn lint' hntn htl'n tn ,urniH"C' f~ IMCt" 101. ( 4nll~ltlt' Jt)lltnl I(IIIM-1 f1l

...

..

-

4 I rn or l/4 D10v1on r 10.----------~J~

Blouson w ith Increased Fullness Pattern Plot ooo Monl.pulollon fiQUf l ond 2

Tr.lct lront .lnd hltl.l\lll~rn" lmhtdt' tht' hatl. homont .. l t,lanlt hnt< IIUII. \dd tn rtcfntl 1n1.1 pwoul point thotc:k.t.

( ~~d.\hnuldc:rdan ~'latt ~Ut'IO\On ~ptl.llnd "rrt~ tJ.,nh ~tlieO\ 1 I i 2 tnc:hc..'\ h.ark'S- \otcu~ patttm .lind lr

Yokes, Flanges, Pin Tucks,

and Pleat Tucks 'fOldS JOlt IOCMCt .I~

ec.ckonf't'~

" A

ULJ f~e4 In~-...~ lir'H llfiAI"(IIfll: "I 1\ ' ''~ ,,,,_. .. ,,,t ,_..

'"'~n I ilrtd tl 'tl'H""' nh ~ t'\U"\\. 1 '" '""'("''" ~:~"" \nll~m !.. I"'' 141

nc~~~ 2 o l 'l,t' the- l " u"'n on p.iJIIC'f wllh ,, Jnl"h pin

t hf\11111:.11 tJtt j"lt\ '(~

BOCk voke wtlh AciiOO Pleat ~n 1'101 and Moip

FOr-em floC ond 0.~ f9.r -

,..,..., -and _,..,..,._ ~ av;.i_ o T~ -and .0 Pl=l('fTl.\.

\ll:'\. ~ t lltiiCb a.m hw:lm Mid-.. d.an k-n.., ::.;._ 1 :_ m.1t Ia ftl'!lll trl.lftl and! ... i. t.boul-...... DrrP 1AIIih nt o (CGI'IIfC A 101t I \ieaft .\ 10 I~~"!) k:c' tnx:11n1S ts.. ,_ Oar~t:

lltc.~.t -;:;;;;;;;-;;;;;. .. ~ ... - .. ....,., ~ blc:Oio::r tr&hb linn 1 \WI t:aUiu C'~ ~ ott hOnt ad bill .. .... z !l"oCttn .0 cmkt ~ l.ueltd ~-.u bicl I L!ldl !or~

irw~.-.ol~

.......

l ' ---, i

....

i

-

...... , .,

tp, ono tJIIIot'CI

. .

1

F1QUret 3 O"'d 4 Cut .and \tp,.u.att ~Ht m ro-n~ lhil"'' ~r;~~lnlinon, ~;, ~ho"n

lAC<

'9>o

fPO,.,.T

I .... ...,.

I

i )

fQJ ~ :..,.-98 Or, .a~-~ I ntl(>ft rtw ~equal to tron

.It'd .... lb~ lomr.!l. l 'C A-1 .a.....,. "'kr o 0! ... ~ bodkto C10IIto

m..: 1bouldotf-bp 'ocatiOCI.IJ,Jbd 5 fc:*S ~ ~oat hom lcld e I~~ dnuftl ~~

""'dJ. ~ l ~ ~c._~ ka poln:iA D1&nl !:r1ll aod t.i, A-!~~ t.bowa.. MG. flU' dar!,~ 1:::c: ~ ......

1$4 ChkUnltuc ha. i. UauoM .a 11 piiiO' b .. L 11111: """ t"..et

FOoJ'~ 2 PIOIN'IQ ~H Ol l/2.ft:tl \\fldlh t!1dutn JucL ('lll'mnt .and iniJ!.t h 4k-\dl'flitd ,.,. .a rum ~'~"'''~"~

f)f';~" "IIJK 1 jnd~ lrorn thr l"fl'"~\ C'lfJ,:r \l"rl. I l'lr v. tdt h of IlK tu,_ 1111. L .II I illt'h

\lart. ~ I .!itkh \lul. ~\d tud ,11 I ilk h ~.at tht' Jlf\-_."'t", 1\ll' f'~h ~ilk!NIItlM l

-J rt'lkl Nci.-~ 4'1'1thf rutW" ntbt"*~r nxt- rtw Jllft11 ('1ft f'oiPI'1 .) tnln1: '*"-' tull'l

l.bt~~ lDi:'C tM JUitml

F'QU'M5a.O h.Untdwt dt~ltm th.m r~ P..l'f"f

..

n.

fiQI.f' ) P!t!ol 1ue1t lt'lt~e

"'""'""''""',;;-----.!,.. ,,)..,\ 1-, -1

~ < ut th~ I)'Ucm~tnd unrold. \t,ar .. .lntlr\Oith t'-Kh tud .lrhl 'nlt't lront.

'9-' s """"

!'~toot tvcb 1\

Pin Tucks

De$lgn AnOIV$1$ Design 2 l>e\ign 2 fcatuh.>

e ,, I f) l. d.. -I "-~ ( ~ I .... ) \1 I (fl

15$

Contouring (Principle #3) COHT~ PIIIIHCI'\1 J

c-...o...,. ~ ...... eo.: GO'"'*" -~~ r~e COHlOc.lt GUDf II'AJTEPHS ~oo"" Conbl~ A:J~ten'IIJ ~ -...~ot lhe HolowNeos

and Ch0r1 lfle PoftoJI'I"'I ~ 1-C\.IIOUI Ned"* ~ 2-cutovt Nll'lhOiitoJ ~ .l-AtrMQie EON ~-~St-,1181ne ~ 6-Contoor Bt""""'" the 8usb ~6-SI~Oe5igns -,.,.,. ona SlOt Eooe

~1-Book HowlotM tl'le Contour~ Pottems

fHE ClASSIC (MPIQE En'll)ro w ttl hOC! Midr-11

$UQfiUC( (ORWRAP)OESIGNS Ponorn foll.on SlOt Po1tf'NO lot RIQtll 5IOo

Olf.6HOUWU OSIGNS Gc'Jt)OM"00 ~h(MJICflof HAU(~

V Noc:~ Ho'lor

150 150 1.0 1.0 161

102 102 102

'"' '"' .164 ...

lOS lOS

. 106 ...

111 .17.) .174 ,,.

. 17S ,,.

"' 171

CONTOURING: PRINCIPLE #3

Contour Designs COIIIHUf d("\ IJtll\ 1(-)JIU\\' th~ ttliiiCUU ~'I lh\' t~'l\h r.rtlh't than hrhiJ:,IIl~ IIW h \1-lll"" Jh.'.l' .U1'\Ull.l tllC' hu't ,uld '"',''l d~r hl.hk'' ( f'nll~u ,k...,tii:l\' uh lu.t, Ilk. \'11lj)lh' \l\ l

j.y \

filling Problems fht' ll~ov.ln)llltllr!Jo! tlmiJit ''' '"'Ill ,,.., IIIII the' I'-ll It lfl h IIIli lll l jU\11 d lt~r di;\I)(H\ tltlll o:tJIItot1U till' flxutt

Whl'fl+l 1"'11111 m 1 tl I lu '' '" tlllm CJI olllll h uh I\ \ u l ml, tho r,o~~uwnt lu\n \ iljlpull ,,, till \hrmltl\tl IIIII I "llll,oll hi tlu< hullhW ,1 11 .I U\tr l ht h tHI, ~ ,, oUiflij: r,npplriM l m tltrt , \ lllljllt\.,, olll tl IJJ!I tit \IJift' ll .nrt filt h ur 111 hml tlo lhlllltm C I hut h , till' lniJIII\ will 11111 Ill o lnly "''''' r tlu IMnt lh ''"''' j(U but ltuoon lllfl'\1 l y fl\'1 I lfu hH!IUW\ 11! t ilt fi){UII' )

In' .. , II 1 ,!\.

GtJIOtJI,no I QJIOul NXUOO$ II muwt of'IU'I.\Il .. l1'1lfl h '"'''"' nuUuw

Jof 1 /.to lh """"It! ollf IIMIJ.I!t(lllh 11 l'l ,..,,.,,, u1t ,~ .. /loll lotH Ill llhflulf.,/ '"' ,;,. I lo,Nf''' l (h Oj tofl f'ol\"1 II+ I -' ' ''''"'' f,;hf Htl '""' ,,. It""'''""' tltotl /rlltt!tt ~

!J t!l fh+ < lllfl

\ .... ,) \

C ,ultll!llrut :\ AttniJqll q,tJ l ho ltllllhnh t',.\0 I tlhothl,.ll h+f '"~1'14" lt41 " " "'' ....... hlllll t II IIIIi

llt .. IAI tjtt~lolhll lllflll !Itt''""' tlll ... '"HiloAr. tu lito hu~l tlul

lr.l11l 1 / llnoltltu~lttollttlolhlilll"" 1,11111" l nf tut tit~ ftt

Guidelines-Contour Between the Busts ThiS o1Jlrf(\kh I\ I!UtnJrd 10 lt'I'NI til;\ .bc11\'t'rl1 tl'lc" bu..t'" !1.\(\"'\\ I)M" ('t'tl lht tlu\.1\ h c-hniiiUf\"(1 J

fofnl

r

-'r- ,.. ,;,an; ,s

MCrt

)

Shoulder Slope ond Side Eose I llmlnlllt '"'"l't'\lt

How to Use the Contour Guide Potlerns lbf '-"MUII (oUiik r.11Wtn\ \hCliUIJ tlf uM'\JI(W .Ill dfo.lln ttw .nuk

1M .,,,f'\, tndlo.o~tni twt--.ft"n thr JU...lntnc"\ .~~.a,..., rhr f\JifC'f't'l '""' t-r tr.tnk-n'C\1 ttl

""""

,.,.,.

I l}'k'" UtH'\1 ,l!lo(o\ \' (If btIOh' lhe I'KUI. 11u n!Nhod d~ 111:~-ml on tlte' \k\l~n

l'k'>l.tm 1. 1, .1nd l lt-.11Uft' nlwt nt'("khnes rlk'nl .tt. or .tl .u'\'1 n,c dbl.u~ from. tiW' bw.t

~0 IOO'XJ II Mnlt

170 C~"'q

F9J"'" 2 FIQM J:..-u.-o- tt.,'IJIt> fnlllk'll t'CWihtUt ,:;ulo~k-llnt-..1''

IUI\Iff" 1\'f."f\'n

172 ~9 fiOJ('t 3 ono 4 11111 (.ut p..XIutn .u .. l.brt J'll.'illt h\. ntl thtt"'~tl.

thr t>I.J)t p:>IJII (h('fl.l'' JtUakhfH: I .IJ!d )CI.Ikh: I1M\ ltclrX't J!lllltftt~ tl'on.&..tn lim rtJ'fl'WI11~ CNI(InJ.I p;auttn 1).-,n. bkndut( ~o.-uf\c ln'lt" ln~o~n \ 1{'1 8 ;~nd un

""""" \Lirl. 1 1 z tnchr\ tw.~l tnom c:;te:h dJ.tt ~ M p.thtr rontt

Portern Ia< Left Sode ~~ cufdrhnt' 1 l\'1. none 1tuc)ll&:h thr ,,.,,,,wllint

.ncJ ""...n'r , 1 md, l);l'f LkJWtht".ll~l~ lJI"' 1WJt~UtNt'l4rf lrlu: .1ooJ n-mM< J-.ltlt"ll'l \WI. I ! Jncb tn '"""' II .100 41" hnf' ,,, 1\.atW tn~n

1~ , "'nrcht ltw 1~ ltn \ '\tuiW' d.ln )co(\,, (dll'"""' lhc t'IU'\1

1..-twttnrtd ru~ ,.,.., . .u.:,.

/' ,_,

..,.._ ...

~, .. ' 9'05

( Ul )IJ.\Il hn~ 14. ntol U'liOVJth, IMI'I P'"nl ("low rnl

176 0'1Qp'l)l 9

fiQOI'e 3 eo: ... StrJ~t.ol \l~khnor .1nd rm~c: 'h"f'C' tnUu

Collars Olfi!OOUCTlOH

,,.

c:I1 tt Hill 'h11t1lln m dunho n

1 ht dlokf- (,1 I (olill.u dc~,:n ,t..--.ukJ C:OfiiJ"t-mtlll o~fl(.i t"ntwl

ND AND ROLL TYPES COLLAR STA , 1 J lndk.tlf" when the llt:'IJ\ horn Z I ll to t lnchn h un ,,.. dl'\dc'l)td wtth .a K"Mn lc"" ~he coll.lr ~or {Oldt-4 and C\lt :r,, t'lttk"f 11 OIK'*plf'\(' or 1\\'Q-IIolt ft\fltu hk~ w~m1 c.olb.r. llw ~&anJmr ~ bto SUii;;ht, aOM ... ,~. or~. cit-pend ln.: ua,nn thc- dt.'\IJ:Il ~:lt~'C.t dt:"ht.'\1 "'h"' c.vt in Utl!Jn. dw~t, or pbid:\ 1br bbk colbs an bt 2 bbt tcx ott~ dt'\lt;.m

\tc;nurll'mc-nh !\t'f'4JC'd

Cffttc-r b~C'~ n.l --- ----Cttutt front nl l

Ur>derCOIIOI Tht ut)J."f\~-.tlat 1unrtn h nu~k' >.hllfl' 1 h1 "itltlllh.Anlhr UJ'I"''"''''" H I\ 1""-' .11n t:'''''' t tn-\ \'111 ti l

Fil Problems of the Collor F'lf;P.- 1 I "'-"*'" l oll.Jr\ ~ ... lt' .1lotJ\t' thr- \lit' 1l!ltt .11

th

136 C~"4'1 10

'9A. o ht~ tbr ,"(fttct bk nn.~ I ""~h 0rll1\ I~

""'-.. rm.: t~~ ltw ,....nt cn.ll .. 1 Ut..h t1.;o .,.. \."t"'llt'f tNI'It

o (lr.a ,.n !(- (QI!Lir ~r.aDd "'1h thr nnlJl!W C'UIIhr e>'&f from lhr Jllf'\L \Ur;. .a no..o~,h .111 \Jkl~Akt l1i'\"' o~~lW """"" noc .. "tJ c-u1 lrotn J'lr'ft 4ol'kl tNt l\.1 I~ rtn "'' n~ ,,. lh{' fllntlttil \Do- .ln ('\lrt I 1n lnl.h hor,nl\1 lh,_. .. niLn PJ'Illl

f

IN CI'VV'- IO

oo.

190 C~fii"IO

Fq.211'1181 l1.11X "n..o~. ~t .aN ha..,. 1Wt'rtl- ....... J'll~ t tnal~ ... ~ .tt n

MANDARIN COLLAR .-~., d'lu at" ....a.n~ rt H r~ 'cl'ln. o~nd' 1'1~.,.. H'lfl.l.rl h .1 ~a,.,.,..ruunt -.un.l"f' 4;:~l..u It XJU" ~ !r' th.'''"' ~ ll't'' tn "'""'t fl .., I I ~ h I I : tndw ,,... tit< .lH r.l~o It h thot N .... lt"'' "-"ht"t C'OU.lf\

4".1..""-h .,w,-.._'lltltTUI*Xto.fllbr-.,U.J UJ~>.' \.IIYiklll'' Thf 11.)1 m.a IIWo,: ~1'\YILI~ .and hi~ ('If l'oo-f.\~ k' M p.'i-111 ..,...,.. . .; the: t'lnl.lnc ttw 't...n..t.a"n ,,.n tnk\ ""-"""

194 ChOC'(If 10

COLLAR WITH STAND

Oes>gn-\ coiLu "'~~~ ''' lhr "'~" ~ of ~ \I.Jind.uln ~ ttue h.n ~n (.''~'"' tor the' tlutt 1ft o~nd l'lut 1,~ 1,aho rdc:m:d to -".l ~Itt ~llfbn. Ttl """'CI'f' rbr \ I.M'Io,Llnn tounibhlft. '"'~\ l._l: .md Jql n.- p.atttm I ~.:n J h 1\t\tro~l\"\1

l'l:l!t4m PloO ond """".,..,_ fq.n I Tr;act \~Jn1Pr1n \t.lnd ')QUJit' 0111 llnch tl.t.,.nurn hum \ o~nd B

Conn< Un {Uf' \-.J hM \t.uL tNu onhok pl.ln1ftc-nl.l\ fohcw.n.

,..,....,

Cuo on -.... u_ __ -'-__ _

r 'ton.tioon

.......

-

r:OU'., . ho1u \l,md.uln tand 4 llt(' hrl~l.en ll n(' mdiC;j lt'$

1 1 "'" ' c f 1 ht ~lin not nmlcd I UM~ Uw n'IJ~r. U\lm : rnN\UJt"11'K"f11\ J:i''t" 'oHh II)(' lllkiJIOIIII C'llh~ UJ)j'l('l rd~ Of th~ nll.u

r-7.=='.---:1." ~.. ,,, .-~ ... ~ -;. ~~~~~~~;~~~----~_____ ____ _J'n ~

'*"" 3 nu,., \Lt,., 1 uk1.

( ut front p.apcor

-.

~ i i c-eooe

fogor 4 ( u t ,l,l h lhwt to, '"'' thH'k1gh, the rollat'$ up

I~'~'' \'111(~ l'l,n n 111er b,.\\ k "" ft11d. !.J)t'1 2 I nth(~ lr,l\10' Ltnte r bJllr., unttt lto nt and ntd:ln'k l)r.aw Uw ncckllw:, tndlng til Inch bd

T urfle Neck

Portorn Pfof ond Devetopment f~QU~es 1 0"10 2 ~~ M~ 'JfiOI'l lu~._ p.ltttrn .1nd .WIII\1 rw..l. ,h Hlu'""'''"'' 8kmJ 1111'"' lll'Ul..k t firt.l'ft t\lt.t.lki IIIlO"\, '4vt'Cd \ lntht'\ ..,\MI kif,;,~ llldtll ,!h""-hl"\lmfoJIIN"Idth~.IJftllilhKM .ttUfl 1., duutok " .. I\ I 1 o41rk'"IK"'\ 11111~-t t\ldth u .. J-Jt\'\1 '"' "''"'"' linf'J_ ( u(l IW\ I l"fllll\

lk.al'l the-Not\ .,,tnllfw-lllnll >111Jtl~~:l~ d)(-Jl.lll('fn ,, .. ,,~ '"

JWl .

'

.

I ~ . . "11 / . J. ~ .; J I ' A

f.guro4 rht '111{'1 b .. d. (,ill I~, c:ll tWII IVilh j(I(Jjr\ .lml

htlllllll\

,...,,,f) fht Cllllt'l IJ,Jcl. (.111 .lhu l111. ldt Ul~'ll wl~tn llocltd lu' ~ 1'''"' lt\tU

ROll Coller wllh Culowoy Noc k

Doslgn AnalySI< Dosign 2 Ill llr\IKn l.lllM\ h,ulo.J f llo\111. k .a Htl.nu) nnlh.rW

11~11 drut~ tk't-11 "' unltl lt.k i fiQIJIU 1 1'1."~ \hvukkr lim"' t;..:~;tht fll.llthlnt .u lll."'\.._

.en;t tiMW lht 11\'"( .. IIIM'\ ( Ul lmtn liM: IMI"-f \k.I\UI\'IIk tn1.11 md(llr~ fwm \ tc 1\ '" t

I htlftlfll ,md lu~ I. htldk ''1..-lltlll\ ""' 1.1111\Jll h-Atld Wollll\, S{fothl , .u ld p,llh'fll lnfuttnoltiUII

c

',~ " .....

'

200 Cnoplet 10

COLLAR DESIGN VARIATIONS

SELF-EVAlUATION TEST \l:acdr cnlumo I ""llh ll'lf rorft(l '"'"'"' ltnrn colu.rnn 2 J.:f\ "'"' dw th,per c hc-tt. 't' wUar., I'CI,I(r "\tll'1trll~ rl lhk \t) lr tl'f I hr t hiJ,u t ~,,,,.,., "" ~ 111,, ..t.~w 1\ tn!ll.llikd I ~oilluu I t ~ 141.u lnrl IJun , ... .._ lt.t~.w ulllnr t'datt

llrt.cht "' """" 'll.or

Built-Up Necklines IUilJ.UP NlO\.IS

~ ............ ..,.-UD eoo.ou h ,.

_,......, Ao.ncMd .._, lciNI ~lond~Qrll

,, choprer I I

202 Ch(Jpleot II

BUILT-UP NECKLINES l>uJJt-up '"" Uut~ ... t'\ 11.11,1 ,,t('M' tIn- t~J't' 1.# tiH' n" l. ~lli.l rnu,.r Jln,muti

~~ ~~ 'l.lll. \,1 flf'\"1J~IC'KII(kt ,.., dfr;lw nH~IInc, bltmlln.): cut\~1 lint' wim \(lU.l~

lint\ ,, an\1 C. ~lntl. notd' ,ll point 6. Utrolen lhw lndlc;att' ml,~tin.ll p.lll\' m .l

Cut 1>-ltt\'rn unm ,,,lptr.

fiQutO 2 llend ond nQICh

8'\ lrlm

Fw-3 Foong rr~ot~ rM-

INSET BANDS

~~~&re Oesq1 Mol> .... Oesqll ...... -.,.,rt biAI ~ ~ ~ lbt onWIM '" dw-

Cowls

((tNt I rl'IJ'I'& "f'.o-41 ,,.,. ~ ll'on ~ f"J ,_._ .... ...,

lo&:_.-v ~,....,,.-.~...._c..,. r o..t~

~~.-. flfllriiJ ... (. ~ c-or~ - ""'U ,., f'l-,_,..,

tv-oNu fC(M'4 MrJ 011 c.o,..4

lfM~

'-""""' ~lii4DIII J ' WJ:CQW\1

~ ... ltf" .lilt .... llh .. Cr~ t,...,. ,. 1II ,. ,.. ,.. :m :m m ?14 >74 ,. ,. :>?8 m 'rJJypr.tl. fJf (..fJWI'\ I '""1\c Uti 1 .. ill') I ol "'tlhhf \lolll)lolll 114141\ Ul"l/1>1

J!

210 C.h ~ rot I?

. /. '

'\;,. . ... .

. , ' /

/

I Mohr-.g PrJt!r,rros fCif BrJrCu1 Ct~S .._.,.. l~llt fll\ .m: vo ,,, tU~ r)l"ht:

212 C#'IOC!t"'' l l

HIQI"l RelaXed Cowl

o.sogn- ee.ogn 1 rhtttUudw I.,Ontl"f'' : ttao/Jurnd\ll\l'""'l\o)l1 ot tht d.&n C'\(1"" ~ tDft..,df\'\l 1 ) th' n ~1. uml

I t J

PoNotn Pk>l ond Monlplilotron ~IOU' I h .!' 1111.' frcml IIC.wlkt' IMI1f'Jn. UI:M'I JII l1 front

n l \ \l.lll." ,, .. h~h h tlfll \l~ldt'f tM.'tl.

\11ul ( .,.,. lntlt fmm fl I >toll" ,,,~~..,, lint'\ tro.n A IV ft ~rM-1 h om \ to C. 'oqu.arr,. ~~~tllrlt' h om Cl'Uit't fr(rniiO bm t1)()jnl

( ul ltH' f'.llltt m fnwn 1'.11~ k>ng Aft linr, db ' "'11"11 u r"MTdtd lot'f1k>n Brvi m hne bor"lnal nnl.llnt'

c ut U,nh Iron u. t'M>t ttm:rujth. tlw bu~l pOint 4nJ p. .. nt (

- C F.buit

~IQI II'/1 ') ft 1kl (MJICf \l.JIIIIIt' oil Jlllldd ir1l' 2 1/2 lnchC!~ dOI'o'll

frtlll} JI,IJ I( (\ ~l)(t illld 1-.I)(J J), Utw ll l'" llt I lint I lut h lljl hm11 point I) (fc1kl

hw' lllrtRr f1o~

Mid-Depth Cowl

o.s.gn--Ooolgn 2 Tboc IOT'"I l.alf lft\1111 1"-.J >! :JUJ..kf tol .l \kj'lth k tvo\'l:tl elk l'llf\.l.md t~o~~r '"''" Tlw tkJIC" 4lf ttldln- .tnd '""Ill""'' .1 ''~"h 1\ll('

lh11tl u Ill\ t ll t'fll I(' the: IOIJ\I f"'''l nl tb.l\t tl.'\-cll .. \ larl. \ , ,., .. ,h\'\ 11 tht' '' 111('1 front rM"(J.. .md btiS.1 k\tt """ n "' mkJ ''1()\!kk:r .arwl dr.11~ .a lhw to .\ l)f.al'lo "'"-"h lirM" fmrn ''~~"'"tip t tl bmt ~'\-I uW At)l'>lht'f tn tl('tl'lottn c. utlht 1'-'utul "'"'" f'.tl't'' ( ut \b\ltii!K' It'- AP~Ihr'-out:h. tht ~~.and

~''I"'"~"'

-

flQIYf ~ lcokl IlK l ldlkf ;tud '

216 cnoper 12

Low Cowl

"' .., '

Design- oe.>gn 3 Tbt io1 tOWf dnpt1 .at or d ~tl\ ~~ hu'C lor'd All of t.tk "';aa l dJn c"U'f"" 11 1r.ln~c:r~ 111 the n

~~!.lt. '""" t~cfl('\ ciU1\ tliJI\ ~lol lrlhllf'. ,1\,.,1 )("~!!"!' arM.I n1t "''"' tflt j\11\f I

.......

/

figlxe 4 eoo. Prar...,n 1 ro~~;.r dw b. l. p...tt tn Ur.- l'lft Uuw mu\1( 1 hc-moNutcm\'11h jtiH'O llw.a .... IIK' t' ' . 11 eM J'es dO''

l ''" "SSIO

Stropless Top r.gr.~o $ 111.14 , ..... ~If"'' II 't' 1~11 li I rH--d 'I"' f'lf I h\' hiXIif1, ll'l U\.4' the' nit';! '"''""'"'' ~1\l ll

~ 1/8

,,

) p

\ : l/16

f"JU'&O t\1 tKIIlfiU\f')\ l!t k"~ti i!IJ tnoatl..t)QI\ h t'\.

'~~fl6 \.()( f~i,

. ''*"

F!QVft 1 II '"'"'"It h IIIIJdn'\1, Jtld I N l tu.:h at hu't J>Oitl t. \t.l).ll_.lt' fNIIt'lll' ()1\ lht' UIIVC'~I ptinCl~ 1\tu\; .. dd \tol lll\

( ul Z ...-11 .md l lur lh1ln11, 1

1.01-t- ,.

,' 1/A ..

rour ~ \

L

BACK COWLS O

220 ChOP1., I :2

'-:..:':___--=

.. .

I 'I . 7 .........

' c

FigUre 3 Sq1urt .a hnll' from th1 lulol 1..-uc tun~t thor d,.af11r .1M tlknd tht h1:mltnc-, ., \11"*n

,..,.,, ,

fqur Jd rd tmll 11~ lncho(~ from It on tht' .. hllllll.ktllllt' lt~('

,.,... .

A f

ONE-PIECE ARMHOLE COWLS

Design Anolyw De"9M 1 2. 3 . ona

Ot.-...rn I -4 t\~1-,h~

Pleated Shoulder Cow! Deoign Anolysos

~n I tu' ll'o () plt,j,U iU \hrn.lhlulmt With th'l' """"''' ckpch IDo\1{ tho! bu\ tlt\rl

Panem Plot ond Mon!putohOn FIQIJe J f ron.r TtJCP from p.lllt'm aoct ~oqu.m .a ' 1.1\h Unt ttun'l

tht cmtn hvntto r-.;,., Jnnl bu~ lol"\dt \ brl. A ht~~ tht ntd . nd bu\1 ._...,f'l

\l.atl. 8 Jl mld-1bouldrr llf~ htw trrwn ' t l a

On"' 1111o \&.Ish 1mn. .wb '~nr llrf~ftTI potm B.ancl ttw YlnUIOrt tr(l .and md;ftJ bt1wun f'OIOI ,, nd t'Ju'-1 Sr\d

(.Ul tt.t-P'"~ t1.-.n PIJW'f

f.g...r I

Fq .. ne :2 l(')k11htJUIJ\'I 'w:IU.U\' .a llllt.lt lilh 4 lilt' hl\ ~n

hCifll lht' hold ( u t \ll\h linn tu, llhlthuoulth. lh

226 ChCJptet 12

EXAGGERATED COWlS hdkf t'o'IWf, .Ill l't ~flllH'IJ 1\\lh~MII f!l~'>ll' h\

~~~nJt.IU'JC ''"" runrrn h. n.mtJ tht ill; I ..qu.lh' I Irk: "' CTI'IItf fmtiL lht I\)'C' elf Jt~l,(!l mllllll.'' .. ~moil lbt nl~l llrlc flk' (1flfoln- ~tl~~:rrl hoi\ U\4:'111" lk-\dufl lht """'~'~ llhnrtJI~ ho.tn,-u:r .un JlroiUtrn ""' " u'!ot\1

Hogh Exaggerated Cowl

Porto~n PfOf ond Monlpulollon Mt'"""'nt('lll N~'td~o~J j i ll ({lollt,' IHUIIh ll( tWd, llii.'J\llrCtYK'11H,

r9' 1 rtOnr hot~. I- tlk' 1'-l'k '""'' ctnpht> hodiu ;.nd tnldriff lth.lflh:J Qj_ t \lt'tkl .1 lmt u11 fmcn temtr front nL arw.l "IUm .1 hnt- l inch JA'Ifl\(' \houkkrJ'I'llt'-1. ~tl-1 1 10 00 -ftiUfth nt tit'( I. UIN~IH~ nk'-IU pfu, 1/ .. in

INSET COWLS ln~ott ''' li an t .. cJr\oltlftN cn .Ill\ IMXUu. l{lf~ 1 . t lil \llllililll:llllt~'ftt \ m \f\fcllnf' tOI\I i fl.lot'l o n IM' ld and rnmrolrtt the- 1-.u1-rn. ' otnp1~1t the- '-1..sw.11....,n lnd f.ciO(

....... , ,._

\n .t~.ttuh'l ~'' j\llh 111

l b. bU ~~nr ... "Tt'C: ~ I "'. c~ hrt.-rn M orw \ak Hl hAnt, tn 1~ :..dl 10 .Jtc nN tno.~thtd "" t:t.a~

'"' ~\. ~ m.'\11~ "kn.-'l.lhlfl ....

~1. u...: ~!'IN~ (\'!1\"fn .:!~ . ~~m n.1"' ,,r('t, l'l .,: \

Skirts/Circles and Cascades

-'""'"""~ ~ SltW1 ~tll)lrr6 131

132 m SJIOr!T" rHcyq.la. ~(laM; -.-.11) ~"~~ m ~ "'"*""' ~ ill _....,. 132 SIIJii'IOWI:~ 21: R.EnUYOI 5llllf DA1M nl

~AJSl' P'.PI'$ ,,. ~ m 230 m 2lt no 1)0

"' a1 , .. .t-'~

'" "' "' ;>.1.$

')II~

'"' "'" "'"' i"/ ,.,.

''" ,., ,., >1.$

....

.....

~'4'1 --

....,... ......

''* 01 ,., Atoll *" IOIOOY

~-.~ J,j AIO.Rj Aeoltl(l S-.rl

~t.O to~ -Pteoi.O 5'f """"1$

eooocGoot ~\tri(JI'!On$ ~,,$11! .. , ,

wrooSOtwfhSO.~ .~ Al-n-~ Wap 9o.l

CIJ.S. Pl't.UM.S Af.tO CASCA()($

I

.271 271 211 113 213 ., . 27 tn 2n 270 281 284 284

= 'J: ! 21!'1 , ..

!11)1SICIRCI.1$ ANO CASCAOES 231

INTRODUCTION ( hanJtln~ til(' ~llhut.t

FOUR SKIRT FOUNDATIONS ffl jo( 1,11 ftM!I '-~~~~ ftll.lfll~!lflfl\ h-'\ \f'lo!\lfk rumc rh;,l ..,_ ntHk'' ~~~ 'llhll.lt'Ut- h t\ tht .lfllunt u1 ll" t.oU"!I If onl tho ,.,.,tl \! 111 I h.ol dl tc 1 rnhll''\ lhr l'l

-' ~ y ..

! ,. ..,. I~

,..,.,

.....

2 tr.

. A(

_.:-_ ...... .r..c-~

. , I I

on

L

........

~

) ..... )

~ . I I ' ~ I flO~ I ~ .. a.

,,. "'""'

2 11'1

I v CUI H ~

0

FOJtQI2o b \t'om~ \ \k1 lllu'loi..h

"'""'' 11-' itl\h ... lh\' 111:'" , , .. h t, hem l h n _h

t ut ' ' " ' .. un, lr(lnl ''"'' ..... ""''

I '"-"t~' Ut;,t, 1"-u.lll'-1 litk-.. 2 l fl hu.ht" bdo" liH: lo''''tt'\1 \\Hk'.tlh the JMih:rn' o~ml tf,l(t the f.tt ln,~t b h.ulttl .lf '' ) ) I- RNIIU\ '\' l "'fk't :md u t the l:td n& I'" H'Uh.

f iQUIO$ ~.d U ow ll.~tt" 11t th l.' b:d

JMih: m , ll \lk" J m l bh:m l.

f iQUro 2c o l lllnl f,Kin~ (lmf()ld l'dl

FIQVIO 2d t umpartt t i\C' p.lltl'fl"'

o c ut I a H""' fit

HIGH-WAIST SKIRTS llw ''-ht \k"IKtl ,.\t,nth .u ' oll' I IlK 1"- j~hl\ tn u\t't tollk 1 ~IIUt"! lh h) t .. i\lllll IWIK,h l Ollk)\ , . " .. ,,,

Pu3ponng the Sl

"

[ -

I n -I

I

'

c "' tlw ''""'"JII'ut\, till\(' d,u,,, :unl , .. fiC' ''"~ llt~.lll(l/1,1: p.tllt'fll\ Otllll ;~dd ~~"''; 'tot't' l l,g \lit'" 111\ltuOkm t ''' hvm I~JK'' !llf.:\llf 'b-

I [Oo,_ _' ~ ~i~ Oo:J

J!QU:e 4 C~t"'Q mo Pot1em Add 1/lltkh toll ~nl\eu~ If~ irKh to

the. w n~Jtot .1nd I Inch 10 htm l\11 f)UI1th./C"It\.k-1 .JI It"- d.m\. ( 0111Jll't'lt' liM: J~Utm lnfurm.,.Unn

PREPARING ZIPPER AND WAISTBAND 0\w~ oc rt1Cf.l1! '"" "" am, In ,.\totd \Uh,hln.l! p,.,, tht ~lill4.r/p.ll l.lh, lit'" In "'ith tht 7IJJ~tr hJ)I.'n. \I itch a \hOC'I dt,unc~ tht-n dow tl'l ''r'Jll1 .. nd Ct1f1fln\W v~U\)1 l'ln m IM\h' to hohltlfllk'f lu pl3o\:t', II t\t(t,.).aty. Afl tr tht Dpptl I~ tt.l(ho1J. \4'ttll1 tht ,, Ill, thtr\ \HIC-h Ult' \1-olh ll),llld. Ffll IJ'flltl tiiJJI ('IMh \hhh ~ J1t Ju .... itKh p.:nlll tu H tr""-1 lu~oe hun 111\\l 'lih h .,,.,., 1/-4 i""'h fw-.. M lht llj'f .. l \IIJl) IJ..Ml, ~Ill< h

BASIC WAISTBAND

.......

-

I

Woii\H~

SltiChinQ Guide hrW' tniMIIdllj: let tht" rcl!kl II flit rot 11.r ,\.ll,dUI1>1

r~ lo 0~ !'Mhl\~-~,. 'tilth ,\ttL ~~~U.Ittht

2-40 ChOP- 13

f"J'ft'~f~ 1 I'W dart llll. it\ htmlll\c I holt\ dO\'\ t ht b~\k AUI\(' \lUI .'\11 r.l lh'l. d411l '\ t-u"'" 1\ tr.lln\hul"d to thc- l~o~.tfllln tu IIM.It41W" fl.art Ill" d.Jrt hnaM- of tht h~cl. ,._,n I\ Klt.lltcr than tht t111n1 an.J my (.11\1-\t t lw htmlint' '""t'\'JI hurn ''""' t ha\ t

"' . ' Cut~ ~.., no31th:...tb din I"'''" " """ """ ,...,. !~piT!~

. ...,

~ I I

~r-!~t'IQ~~~ f'Lkt llOC\t M tl'lp ft/ tt.c .. P..'INI'l IYU!( hon(

u:nt~ttl~ \kuu~ .,fld dt\ Mk>thr dol to f11U' ~ttn ttk t:runlnd tc:L \1 u1 Jllhr tM)f hrnn

.\dd onr.h.&lf clthl\ ~t Vo the- !ttflnd t\" RIO\o~; ~t--hl!f frr..m ll'w ,.,.. k ""11rtl t.KitfJJU 2 li3rnd ~e w-:arnt '" bpl nt ~ I !- to l. ... nth htm lkM.arK.- '"-1d f

rnTI~nnt( V'.IIJUo.

VJ!: he-r- n t"~' pap:r ,,,. .. "tt4 n l1d :.mpktt t..cl~' t "' !

hulh~ front nd Ni~l. -\~~(It J l udt". U$1nS: (lllt .tuJt or~~ Al ,~ 1m1 unuucuon) t:~ffi 1 " tt.}'C \- lu~ \I,Jn fnr l'tkndlnr h~rmlinco ~~ p.lllt ! +n f-1 !>Ufft J nd .U. BkniJ Kf'"' httnltM. J\ ~.

{ulfll.lt !wc'I1Mh ll'l.dfU)Is-0t)('.Jmt .\dd I.Z. an l .a ... nch hem .\dd ft'nu.omnx ~ .. m$

! J i v

- -r~ 9. ' . .

-.

One-Dart Skrt Fovndohon Tht one--dan \l.tn Juund.ttmn tt., twn I uno. tk"'!o'!o t

ftored Skirt Bosed on one-Dart Pattern Ponern Ptol ond ~ ""'!" 1 r ' ---.rhrt .. l,ul (\'lh .. n lt(lnl \ w ( ,rl

~:,2wh ll~ to. n(ll thn~t~~h ... utl.mt

11.1 on tfw Jl'" .md W'~ r.-b ot~ .\ uklx tllf l"llll'rt"

rr.t the' oullm~ Wd It' ,1\.k W>alft..'- .tn...l bkr~oel lwntl "'" dr.l.._ '''"~' Juw InC hftnhnc" to fi~III'C tltl~ L(ft lrM u.J .. ouf\ llW hi.J"'I"W" \"\11'1-t .,., IOO.ftt" nft"ditd ... twn .tn\f"uu f>t fu.Jlnn'>l.k-.tm.i

I , f.ttHk "tight flnnly nl\t!l IJbrK hrnln th..- .tfnuunt ~ ~~~" th.lt un bt '>tltthnl toto w&m b ht ''ti!lht l"l"lfiprNidln.: th(' hcnllhl\', wl,.l~,~ lttt "''"'

and ' IHt'.ltl til(' arntunt d~..,ll\d 11\ll\).: tlw ~ h.1n ''' h)' lJ)I(':Itllng h JU tltt',IIIIUU!ll vi \'a(h lt(m 'Jl.lt'l.'

1\

Pattern ptot ond Monlputo tlon

~~ 1 - 1 )r,1~~o ;a , l'f I lUI II nf' Ofl I hi.' fl:lfM'f Jtl;tllb tk'11fo.v knl(lh ,,.u, t indk ... th~:m .nul \\Jhl 'lo\'.un Jll "-'"mt-). '''"Nplr l mlihcd 1\"ngtll 2~ ~n('t~ rfU\ 2 UKhn t 1/J. lrn;h )I ~Ji\t.tml I 1/- U1Ch

Pcmem Plot and MonlipulahOn Ftgues 1 2 Tna tht ~k front .atW l\k., U.1rt

OrJ~ ..,tt ~tckluk\ hQftl t/'w: dJrt pntnh to thf' tkml11k p.lODd rtollk- ~~t\'f IJI'k., l.Jbtl J::Uh.ldl.nt\ \-1~1 '~m1 ;md c-o tlronl \.Ltnt.

ModltylnQ Dorll 8r01ten OMs Orlgnc;' Ocm Jl..l,l lllrh

ki'llurrlnt;,krnllht.,.:u>l'\lld.arth) I linch .and ~hem en lht' ... n):th to~ u\t hn {ll(ruht' Ill\ mt.al.r rtf tht- flnt din b\ 112 loch. o,,.., n...-w cb.tt .. 1t\ ""''~ \11~1111) C'tUt.,.nd ti!J!un. 11

[,,..,, llwh U1m.n . .atr thl' \t'teon.J cS..n '" m." HlJltM-

'-"'0.'~' to the: tnWL: 4 the ltnt ct..n Or.a., ,.....,_ d.ut 1'1'1'~ t\lnrd !~.hdtlly fiUI

"""'"'*' 11:1.11\ 2'1

I I

'

-

..,.,. I

~'lf0'4: 112 Otc'~ 1 n ,, .. .oc:l'l""9) 11/.t t ltUil Or;~," .1

j

'

.

l '

252 ('h(JJ;'''" 13

fq.tl!tl CO t'l b F~/llx " Gcn

-(~t ttw ,.d. p.tlith lr"m rtw Jloll lt'fn lttof ond M

~J4 5korl! no~f .vl!J WJVr.ltt: ~:~ W\;ltln'

I I

~&,'Of\_" l'l.h.im: n:nl\'f lfltnl c-r I:Vf\' t in ltlld tf~\1 \l('ol~ft'dtwon lrorn ";IJM ._,, thl P:Mt' JNfltl' tel .t b.lli\lfl ,.,Mfl' J"'k.m .tl\' te btJtut 1("\.lll'lfk 0 tn

12-Gore Skirt

"""'"""-Go!\') h;l\ "ln,it Jl or mort pl!U'h '""" ht ~:riC'IOIIt"d thtOC~h IlK' draft(!(. f$1 j'UIM'I. "'flkh I\ CUI"' m am umn a1 it r~nh fbrt" c.tn bt .ttM~ h the' Wpr or thlf' ""rt pand rn m.111n~ tht lrumJlitl. fl!J' and TuJ!ft ulhoof'ltM

Tht B

12.Gore Graduated Flore Design AnOtysls ""' 1l1o.hll tnl IIJ~r~~ll l~r llJIC.' n ~-~It t;fff fUIMf.

Pon~rn Ptot ond Monipulollon FIQUf I

llo~tr ~1ft" l"''lt'l lift lf"'' (..;sb(>l fflllf1 front. \qWJ'C' lhM;> .K-1!1'\\ I~!K"I ;md (ptr .II hip k-\'('1 lf'tt.t('f' tl~ Jt.and fi\T tinlO morr, m.atc-hm,: hip k\rl omd \kk \oC'~nt tnli~ 'll'""'.lllt'l and (()u linuc uMtl.lnl( n.u~.un , ..._ h 'lllt "' t'al.:l' ll lin t'~ lnc!l(;lt \' ntlll' fMU'I\ for ~VIl'~ 2, .J, IUhl 6,)

\4-fi.Ij)\ I lllldl'fnl'lllh thl' J),.l\tl'rtl ;tlld lr:lll)f i:J

It'"'" ,1\ lullu~~. I 01 J:Oil' I, ''".' bo ld lhw, (, KHn' 2 , troJott fl,ut lndlta.h _'\1 b)' bmLcn line-,. ('on . llnut th1. I.UIH'\\ unlll :tll li:('fl'\ au: u;~~n,flr u.'CI.

i !

-- . 0..9"'101 hem

. .

-

,'6

l

'

D

Flgvro 2 l llh h Jll l'\:lmph ~I IIW ll.l llt'l \ h.lflt IPI ll.llt" I.

Flgv

260 C""'P'et 13

.......

' . .-----.

3 ' Pottern Plot and Monlputolion FIQur I

I" ' liner cop!Oh I '

-cort--

r.guro o1 FQCtnO lrau til\' IllS" Cll C l'>llh h \k), l'\ '-l"l' , rul ll\.':

1/! lth h t~.'lm\ \\,1\\l ' '"'' \\lth lhl' l'-'lh I 'hl.:~11\ \,k t , , .. hh h 1111 \ ' \11'11\ l(>l\

~< ...

PEGGED SKIRT WITH Pl EATS

'

~~n~ondMoN~ ro . 1

... , "'"'' ..._,,, JJr"' .t IU10 II! off! I lrMh llol .. ~ H llltf

, ..... '" '"" h'( ~--~ \br'l 1 ,,.,, in ~At hun ,md d'""'

lnw to tur ,,,. J"lU\d I h., I l)f'"" \l.lo~h llllr\ I tok,H\ .t' \l'wn.-n cut p.lil~rn luom f"'l~' 1run IM"i&.t:n 1 ,, m.u "''" W\"'..t;o. tot ,.,,.hth.utd

f9J97 / ~ t u1 \J.1\h ln'IC'\ htotn ",.,,,

~ throuch iok'"'Am.IJldhtm \. \ 1 t..'ol ""''''"'" thrul.tnlltt,l

In, IIUI

\tlfr.W r.~.h Vlllol" ll!l\tW\ IM' ' "11-H' '-'lilt'

lr.k~: .,,,_llld tMUrrn nt.H._In,K Jlk.tl f'l" nn...:

u.,, I'J ..... foil! 1t1o ,,.,_., ht '""''II nt ll'llhl~\

~.thl \\Uh ll.t\IMIC "lw~l, Hn\ ~tr tu ldtd tllt.oH ilt "-'oU\Ihll 01'11t'll IMIII'fll .md Ill !It II U1 J flhf,th tl m.uh oil \\,lhl '''''h r,,, pk.th lr.-r ll..ac l , t.tllll '''"'' \hHII, lint I unh I! 1~1 ~~~~ II \.efliJih 1 hi ~~~\ " I' h11111 lwm "'"' llhulr.tll II.

f 9"'~' lSI d CQI'l:5.11 y 1.00 lr.c t h.l\.jt hdt 4 II lulcS of fJ r ! 'ItT I~ It'' 2 I 7 lc ,, 111 II 4""', ln1 '"'' rll. U nttdt'll l

l'l~r ,.,t'd~ \11 11~llf ,. '''""'lltatulin ;md 1 ''"ll"''" 1111 rn '''' t"\t frt

.......

['-c----'~

1~~;,- 1 2 1

DRAPED WRAP SKIRT WITH A CASCADE

Doslgn Molyolo lih' dhiJ~'I)' ji4\.11\ \111,-1\llh fltKII IIlii' lfllhlll,llid lht' olo\4 .kk h ,.,.,, ,,. Uw J,ht '"'''"''' rt d1oc '' tlt,rhtnd ~ H~ prh\4 '"'' lhlt' un lht'1'1"~'" '"k uf tlw \l.ht, oi\ ' ' "''""" ur (.lilt rid,., tltot \I! lor 1o1. m d !Ht:h ntd I ~;nKIIr (oi l I IM 4\hh

c

I

' 0

r9-""' . ''"'J' frm ft tol f'l' ,.1.)1 plrll oof tin ...:-c-nml diU I

( JoN' lklllh ~th ~noJ fJJ"' l)r,a." 1 ltn lhttoUdl thl t\.loe I HIIIH Hf liM' ft I 'f'M'I ~t

fq .... ) tt.knd ,_. trom ~ '" dwowfiW' .tntif .ttht ~l'idiiiWI Ulll. lltllcOoe":l-. II lho t'('flh tnJ luw ....,..,,

I t of'UW(1 ~ luw u..- C t~ ll lo t1h I ,,., ,fMJUJd l"t' Clf~~h

I .g...or 1

f

c rqn)

fq.,t 4 t ut II ''-''h linn .wd 'lt>ft.Jd t'CIIUI tf) llloC' S..t fftt.I\Uil n~lll

ltoll~tW Ji,(Uft' l ln~lnkliUfl\ 10 COnlplll:'t~ f'.Kh tlfOlJIII'I\ llto~l

,lqU't: s

nr~ - ...... ._ k~ ~

f:1Qut9 :-.. cmcooo \111\h llut hum ht>tn UJ

ciMIJtltlfU ( 1)\( the d:ul nd lt.tU: ISknd ;t tUIH'

SKIRTS WITH YOKES Yo~e WJih GothOifJ

f9..re5~ rJidpsptt ~ ;&hl.wtlzof!ulJUioklu'Wl U'kfKl

up {fOilS btltrom Cll Plfll'1 ~~ told tut tn~ ,u.~ m:non pt.A""l' ll('(tt~m m \ot

~ 41nd tpa.:~ f'l...al'h .a..ro. l)lprr l('\.ln'l pit-~ oc 101n ll'ktwf. 1-r""' uriQctun, ~( ;;!4 .. , -..

(tau ~nt ~10\t 'ohiJot nd hrm JLtpt-t fr b.itlnot UJu .. H .,. ,! ' Or"'" fl' nlltw f nm.p!..t tbc-p.il1( 1'n .,., "' t~t Itt

,P',

."""'

,9HJ

.

yo-;,(J ~

1t0t'.J1 v

'9-' ..

I

I

r-:-. -:--1

J

I

I .

,.

'

I I

'

Diagonal Yoke with fl01ed Sk~rl Oosign Anolvals Ttw )'(1\.C' for I>Mlgn 1 h ,..,,o~~lkl tn tht' ~h to th

!

2.10 ~+r J

'

. '

'O-'ti!. !, ""...,.. .. I ,..,. cl,.!IJ od II .KIP \dd I Inch .. I U:OIC'J' b.td; 1 Jr.Atl I to I I rltkllln tbt fhc ~Web~ 1 I': ~ 6o c ,,,~..,. In ""'' " irom I I '2 ,,. 2 t ~'I'M' Wldlb nf trw ptf'Wbn t dtepo 41:;c: on f'br ~ a1 banN. f.k\ f td f o)lf Vb.nd lnd 1 PPtf R\Cn.( 1ft: piCn l"-%1'"'

' !:. . r!_

" .

212 Ch(lt:* 13

__ ,. MotlfpuiOiton 101 Ooslgn 2 Pottorn Pkll uo n1 f'I}JWIII T..., .... .. ~l.lrl .. , ilh.tltiUI'I.I

.!'II lmltt\

'"'.

'"'' '"' n

1, 1 ~ uttht~ ,. t 41nd'" 1 .f tl'kiiC'\ ~l~!Oihn

rq..re2SH1~ ltlf f'Mh IIC'f I\ II ( j>!I\IIJI 0 Jlir\rlforfU "" U ffkll"t ftllfJk""\l h ~l'l'\J. .W Ht'IC"J\.Ifl "'"'lh Uf 11M)' ((I ~h J'llntl

,...,.,

-----

" Cl r r_. A -cvt I v.oc;Jtn

6 II tl\

Peplums ll'nl. ul J}f'ptuftl' .,., o11 \tndt tk'r or tht>.t \IJn A pq.turn I' tht u,npc>rloflll tllollt '""'"' r&

214 ChOP~ 13

Gothefed ners tot Doslgn &

fQur9 3 rlllr PoMISI I lirlot\ '""'"Jitn~h tkt IC'uJtUI; !h.l l')rJl\ \Tfl ,.. ...., I f ) , ... ,~

I tn~h tC!f the !Wrn In r.ulth \. .Ut~ ( 'r "' ll.utd (. ,ttkl 1 1 :. lrKh wtikfiJ\

UJ.ft .. ,In(' I'NI fllnt (lkfl Clld ~U.III!I tl .. ; 1.11 .. ~ ~"'llh ;uti.! nlfUln.l h\ (o!nlf*:l\' C'.k:h j \IU\'1

I

......

~uro 4 51:.1 Frome f'rmdr /Mf w U~or/1.. (,,,,.k' t.\t'r ff("'' 11

SUtch tltt trtn "'0\' liM' \lin, ~~;utdfd by r unth hul{"o or h) c.hJit. lin~, ltt:r r n d1Kr..JJ

X'p.1101til'{ ll~t .\.l1ti 1'1. J-i(IUI' 41 f:ut thr 1l.lrt h.~;m~; o~lnn,~t ~lilthhr"

rhf' lien ;\I t: \ll!(h~ 111111 lhf 'of'fn lin~. Ttl< la,t p.~ncll\ di1oe;.lfdod

-

ur.u ;cralntlm" on Ndl p.lnel:.nd w mpiNe the 1'-'llt'fn tufa 11"11 fiL

cut f'l.l!ld\ thln,aw 01 ck'C"tCJ\t' for fullnM~ as ck~lrtdl

~ JUJCt' !7:!. Fl.~turt 2. for .klju\lirl~ thf.> b.Jd, \\JI\1

I}-

n

f 11')f A IUIXJOfiCIYI

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .....

l'w8j~IJ

FlOro nou lor O.tlgn 6 Prq),ll(' ,, 1.

11& {1~1! 11

PlEATS I II I" .on"" , 11,~1 "' lu ., .. ,,, to~l ""''"Ill\ \III Jtl tl 111 ""' I 1 I to.lftol nH"'' ' 1 "'" " I 1 I I , 1 .... 111!1ht.ll!lf~ 0 '1 I ,.1 1 ,1,.,,,,.~ 1 11!\ l ~oolio., lol\f\, olh' ... \,lfUt ... \ ,j IJIII~Ihtll~ 1110"'1" I I

fo,ol~tloiiH I hll '" .o\ 1 ' I I I. 1 IIIII"' .,,f 11, to lflllljtf '" ol, ~! Ito h~loOf I till I n I tut' llu' ""'\ " ''' ' I I I .

'"''' .... ''"""''"'"loll I I II~UII I'"''"""" l ..... , .. , .... "'"f'"'''"t.U I ''"''l''"''''t-' ''' .... ,,,,"' ' Ullofoul lf,.tlll~l "( I I f ""''Uoi!OIIhll" hololllooooof,fiiiiiI!I)Tit lotll '""'~~ ~''"'''""'' 1,.,, '""' '" ,,\, 111 I Tvf >nt of 11t ~Jft: lc:fV'tt Of $kJO I"Mnn 1,_,.h 10,. ,,, ... 1...,, 10, 11 ... , llll>fll' dllu floll

r

I I Jfn""Ottoltl' 11 'lllllh!Jt II~ l~oll"'''lll.U ,M tolf tho~! fho fl .. ,lh Ill '"''"' IIOI(IIItlt oll lol tfooltlh h JII.tl "''"' '~hi "' ,,,.,.,

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GODETS Gock'b ~tt ~rail' u1~ru.;ubrlii.IJ)('(I \\f'\11;1'\ c\ll.llrk pl.tt't'i.l llrt"l"''t""n \\',1111\ "' lnW ~~~~~ 01 u)4.:d '";a '"~'1-Kt' rnrnt tOf NTOUI '('(1t(l(l\ Ulll unin.; lh.llt'"~ (otli.IC'h Jlrfl\ itk' 34~U tlon.1l \Uklc.- room (11 n1

WRAP SKIRT

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2U Cnc>'9' 13

CIRCLES. PEPlUMS. AND CASCADES \\ O't'~li'T rltmf'tll' ~ ifdl', Ul \IU.Uttf (It\ I( t .1~ h t II\ lc- '\.ul f\ IIIU~!t.ih"-

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RodtUS Chort tcx cucle Sk,ls ond Coscodes Purpose 01 ,. rrodll.ls Moorurornoof l'hl' cNr1 f"'~ldn J quiL mrthctd lttf li~illlo: lhf

~IUS (lithe tnn

Poltern Aol ond OeveiOQomc)(ll H.all .a nrdr V.trl 1~ d11111"\1 uYIIJ: liM 101dhu fill' .I J.Uflt'mt111 Thi, ~lttfll I\ c_VI l ~iu IO llltn("'lff' thf' onl< ~l..1n

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294 cnaprer 13

GroJOhne Ptoeemenl ReiOirve 1o lhe Fo I of lhe Flore fl.l"> tt-nd w 1.111 ,.,,}(\ tulh "'hrU"\''' 1114' )train h ,~n the I:>~.J ( h.111J:tllil: tht" Jo;r.uniii1C' ,~n ronuol "tkn ttM' 1:111) Arid fbh "dltJIJ (,filnJ1nr 1--tbft"'o l.lll wv..atd the' \tdt .llld 'JI.It' lrotll-'lliiiJ:hl J'l.lllliUlC' ~r-.lulllk 1-ll.al'\"\ ull hl '"ntn lnwu .tJl..l f\M.&t\1 '(..;~(' """m-f!Ud bee"'"""' trnnl .1nd ,. ~m' t..r&mhnr _J-Ibm t.11t "' tTf'lt('l "-.sr w~. ld 1n btl-.:1\ pUnd _J .f Ukh tnw ct"nt

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Three-Quorler Clrc iG Sklrl A au.anttW'ltlun of lht' full thc1t- '' 1\lnn\~'\1 111h lt'\ulh In I('\.\ h~mlint' Wlt't'll but ;,n lntl~.tw In tht

likUU~ lllt"ll\UI\Il\~lll 10 UWtiJI\II)IIIt ltlf It\\ I'M\ nl llw ~"\tlun lllt- \l.ln t.u\ h~t\t' ont" ~um In b~t), en t.\n llt'cut In two or mo1~~rtrb St'ttht ~holt(" of Jtr.linlhw pi;KU1Wilh 011 I"'~ 2Y4

Ponern 1'101 ond Mon

296 CI'\OIQ'flf 13

---Mo~lon fnnuLII \\.1.1)1 mNIWrnMfll

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C.rcular Skrrl wrlh Groduoled Length Hemlrne ()Oh nkt llw n~o~..t>\lh"11M'nt fn h;alf .uKt tM'Ifd!

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J)l!l ' '~.lm .tiiii\\JIIt \' (two w:un,, ,tdd Z lntht'' ' IOU I '''.111\\, ,1111.1 I I lid"'' ) h) lk\'eiOjl ol !.II\ ul,u S._hl \\ lth IWtl ' lu It'' dl \'1ll'' t lw .kllu,t .:~.t ''"''tun ... lllt'-.llUit'm ""' ln lt.'ll ' '"' ' ''' '''" ''"'"lll''lllt tU 1t1t utumn 1 of tht th-.&rt

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Gathered Corcutor $i.;t1 (Notllluslroted) Ponor n Ptol ond Monipulo'ltOn

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SKIRT DESIGN VARIATIONS [)r(o\"rl'f' ~I>:O'\ I ! l ~nd

~ Ser-n Sleeve

~Hn \Jtr\n u.n bt dn.t~Md 10 fet lht &rmhok \mt'l(othh or "-llh ~tht-n n.n an bC' dn1l:;Jl('d fit ltd tof '-llh ~...,C~ttd fullnt'\'5 Jnd un br Nt to an~ k-rltth

Tm ht-mlin.t n1 cht 'llf't\"t" on bt ftnu.hf'd tn .a numtttr Clf "''\ "- .as \I\ ell be' allu~lr.atfd an thts ch.Jptn

Term,no~ogy '~~ ~r t_.ap C un'C'd top r,j ltw ""'"' hom rrom ,,, ......

C:p hfilthl l)f,t.anct hf!ft'l blrc~ I Up .11 ftft!n Hk~ lnc-1 \\ ~ ..,t P." ot the w.n-.. 41\ldlttl t.bt up lr m ttl lmoo~r ~'t \~-c-uw. \4detscn.alallow.lln.;lf o11 t1tttpt. t!bcM ~ ""'' k\rl$ ~tent tfW Cbn.mk:ma-of tht .um an.J &tlnwu'l~ t.tw kw lr\"tdom ~ lhOII't'-IM'nt IJ!w t.Lr'lfn hl.'!ll'l I I ! to! cw "kft ktkbn.-

SLEEVE CUFFS ~"\"\c u1lh ~~~ dt\dnp'\lin .11 \,lnct~ ll \\tdllh ~fill u~kd In~ ntutlbtr ot ".11)' +wn~"\1 polntnt. ~nd \H ()oil I. lht mo~t rommcn ~h" tht Ni' 'hin t ull, lh(' l ct"n('h ull; lht"clrl')('d tulf. th..- tuUuptuft. o~n,l ll+f' 11ntlt-. comouh'tl t'llll Oth~r d"'h:n ,,.,1,111urn .art'

cull~ dC'\dOJX'tl U\!1111 thr ~tQ\r.ll!thlnk '''"" ,.., .i t:Ukte. 'I he jttalllllfk' ,,111 b: .llhr~"d tu .u.wmn .. M.I,Jt(' lci'IJ:IIII'Ii)( JVollln, biJ\. CK \-fh\\ji;la/11 .1\ ll'fKIIflli.lh tot thr: nMl.cr eN lhrk: dt\J~tn cp4.ud\ ,uul \llljWJJ. fOf )bin lllltlt:l ('OI+mU< tleco Poonled C\Jll F9J90

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Dtoftlng ltle Cull Tbt cr>niJ'k'lt 1lf't\~ 11i.lhJ\UJtnJ.

~ Tr.kt' tht' NSk. ik>c\.:- l)r,J\'1 c,k'\1Mf C\lff II~ jilul~ lhrt"f' f"'t~lld lttM"\ \f\llt'nl 1 11 Z. tndl('\ ~p.&tt

httaw ht-rn (.\ -8 ltlkl I ~hd \co(-tMIIn\ I. 2. .and }.

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Flgvro 2 l'(lltl \0 th.ll ~lllfill 1 h up, M'\ thin ldowrl, ,ulll

M-ctlon i mul\!tl'l\'.lth. l'h,\w th~ und\'t'i.'.llll\ l\'ilh ,1 wl,r ,m both 'Ilk-'

of ftlld :\' I{Uidl'' ,1ud Hit lwtn Ill\' 1'-'1"'' wlul rhtn>.:1.1('111~' :,.- .111 .lllln.('lft\ ,,1n. ~lh the- f" ,.,. nt (\''

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!ht'fnl jrtt "'II ,nln,t: a~il)' frtKn ~nnJ. rnm