Pass It On ProjectPass It On Project

Introduction to B&W Processing for Newbie

Greg Choong

www.GregChoongPhotography.com

AgendaAgenda

Introduction

Basic Theories - Film Types, Terminologies.

Getting Started – What do you need, where to get them?

Fundamental Steps – Developing->Stopping->Fixing

Techniques – Let’s Rock & more.

Recipe – Developing Details and experience.

Reference Reading

Basic TheoriesBasic Theories

Film Types

•Silver based vs Chromogenic films or

•Traditional vs C-41 films

Examples of traditional B&W films:

•Kodak TRI-X, ILFORD HP5+, Agfa APX etc

Examples of C-41 B&W films:

•Kodak TCN, ILFORD XP2+

Basic Theories #2Basic Theories #2Terminologies

•Development- A function of

Time(Duration)+Dilution(or concentration)+Temperature.

•Time – the duration in which you apply the chemicals onto the film by agitation.

•Dilution Ratio 1:4 or 1+4, I’m no math genius.

eg 400ml of working solution with dilution of 1:1 means 1 part water and 1 part stock = 200ml of water and 200ml of stock (chemicals)

•Temperature Control – B&W process is ‘cool’?

Basic Theories #3Basic Theories #3Chemicals – 3 Basic solutions need to process the film:

Developer – A chemical reaction that acts on exposed Silver on film. Simply, it causes the image to appear on film by turning it black. Has a pH above 7. Powder or Liquid.

Stop Bath – A process that stops (neutralises) development. It can be an acid solution or just water. Has a pH below 7.

Fixer (Hypo)– A process that ‘clears’ unexposed Silver from the film. Simply, makes the shadow area of the film clear, making the film permanently insensitive to light. Powder or Liquid.

Basic Theories #4Basic Theories #4•Terminologies

Chemicals – Others that are good to know and use.

•HCA – Hypo Clearing Agent

•Why use HCA?

•Greatly reduce washing time

•Remove all traces of fixer (hypo) from film.

•Wetting Agents

•Eliminates watermarks on film while drying it. Eg Agfa, ILFord, Kodak’s Photo-flo.

Getting Started #1Getting Started #1What do you need or don’t, & for how much?

1) B&W Film Development doesn't require a darkroom. You can do it in your shower room (but not while you're showering )

2) The list of items you need to get started with price of the items as a guideline only:

a) A big darkbag to load your film onto the reel & into the developing tank. Get the double layer, double zipper type. As you need to put quite a few items in it, getting a small bag will be a hassle. S$25

b) Small developing tank from Kaiser or Patterson which can hold up to 2 rolls of 135 films. S$20

Getting Started #2Getting Started #2c) A pair of scissors, small enough to put in the darkbag, long enough to cut the film across at one go.

d) Chemicals - Basically 3 main types: Developer (D76 (powder) not D24 the DURIAN, $8.5, or Rodinol (liquid) 125ml, S$6.5), Stop Bath (or do away with just water, NOT VINEGAR) & Fixer (ILFord Rapid Fixer, $9). Get also the HCA (Hypo Clearing Agent, $8.5) & the Wetting Agent (Agfa, $6, not Mama Lemon detergent).

e) 3 1 litre containers to hold your chemicals. Buy some smaller measuring cylinders in units of 100ml and 500ml will be fine. (get from $1.99 shop)

Getting Started #3Getting Started #3f) A thermometer, get the 30cm length type for temperature control and using it as a stirrer. S$15

g) A pair of gloves if you think you're sensitive to chemicals.

h) A cloth hanger with pegs and 2 additional pegs (ask from your mother) for each strip, 4 pegs for 2.

g) an empty Knife brand oil container (4 litre type). Cut some small holes at one end and a big opening at the top to put your negs in for washing purpose.

Getting Started #4Getting Started #4i) Timer. Use ur Casio (risk spoiling). I just bought a

$18 Casio timer with 4 timers. Very good as I can set T1 for Developer, T2 for SB, T3 for Fixer, T4 for HCA.

j) kaiser neg sleeves to hold ur negs. $10 for 50 sheets I think. This is good quality sleeves that serve me well over the years. Fungus will grow on the sleeves, not on the negs at worst.

k) Film picker $25

l) half a dozen of Tiger or Qing Dao beers to drink away your well developed negs!

Fundamental Steps #1Fundamental Steps #1Recap – what is developing?

Time(Duration)+Dilution(or concentration)+Temperature.

Consistencies in maintaining temperature/agitation/dilution. Very IMPORTANT!

Fundamental Steps #2Fundamental Steps #2Agitation – Gentle motion that stirs up chemical reactions.

I call it “Tai Ji”.

Dilution – a stage where you prepare the developer, stop bath and fixer (also HCA & wetting agent) with the right ‘qty’ (vol).

Temperature – All chemicals must be maintained at the same level. Eg Temperature of Developer, SB, Fixer constantly at 24c or 27c to prevent unexpected/wrong development & reticulation.

Fundamental Steps #3Fundamental Steps #3Temperature Chart– Cool Dude in Hot Climate!

Where’s the info?

• On the box

• In Digital Truth's Massive Development Chart. www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html

• In one’s experienced head. (refer to Recipe)

Fundamental Steps #4Fundamental Steps #4Temperature Control and Conversation – man, I prefer to

use those ice for my Qing Dao Beer!

Do I need to develop my film at 20c? No you DON’T!

Acrobat Document

Lets Rock & Roll #1Lets Rock & Roll #1Loading the film – this is the only time you are in the ‘dark’. Who says you need a darkroom?

Prepare the chemicals

Setting the durations on the timer.

Pre-wash the film – condition it.

Develop IT! – agitate gently & continously for 1st 30 sec. Thereafter, 10 inversions every 30 secs.

Tapping on the tank to dislodge ‘air-bells’

Lets Rock & Roll #2Lets Rock & Roll #2STOP IT! If using water, 1 min, Acid stopper, 45 secs.

FIX IT! 5 mins

Post fixing stage using HCA & Wetting Agent

Washing and Drying your negs!

My RecipeMy RecipePre-Washing the film – condition it/remove dusts.

Developing using D76 1:1 @ 27c for 6 min 15 secs

Stoping using Stop Bath

Fixing using Ilford Rapid Fixer for 5 mins

Rinse it for 5 mins

Apply HCA for 8 mins

Wash it for 10 mins

Final Bath in Wetting Agent for 2 mins

Hang Dry.

My Recipe #2My Recipe #2Hey, don’t push me! Pull me more!

Pushing and Pulling in shooting and developing.

Pushing a film – shooting it beyond its ISO. Eg Shooting HP5+ (ASA 400) film at ISO 800.

Push Processing – Over-developing a pushed film.

Pull Processing – Intentionally shooting the film below its ISO rating to achieve greater tonality. Accidentally, pulling means reducing development time to correct the mistake.

EI – Effective Index. What you rate your film at. Eg Shooting HP5+ at ASA200 or EI200.

My Recipe #3My Recipe #3In Summary

Overexposed your film by 1/3 or ½ stop.

Underdevelop slightly your film 1/10.

Good Luck.Acrobat Document

Reference ReadingReference ReadingIn Offstone

Newbie Start to B&W Film Processing

Film Developing in Singapore Temperature

Newbie Guide to B&W Printing

In Photo.net

B&W Photography – Film & Processing

B&W Photography – Printing & Finishing

In GregChoongPhotography.com

Introduction to B/W Processing for Newbie Presentations

Greg Choong’s Recipe