Papercut Magazine MBFW Runway Recap F/W 2011

8/7/2019 Papercut Magazine MBFW Runway Recap F/W 2011

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MERCEDES-BENZFASHION WEEKFALL/WINTER 2011


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FOREWARDPAPERCUTSFIRST FASHION WEEK...AND WHAT A WEEK IT WAS!For every new kid on the block, theres always some kind oinitiation. An inaugural activity, i you will, that cements onesidentity with more established members o the same group. Forcollege sororities, that might mean running around campushal-naked with a keg o jungle juice; or ashion publications,that rite o passage means tromping around Lincoln Center (asast as ve-inch heels can go), maybe hal-naked (or maybe cov-

ered in ur, whether real or aux), balancing a tall glass o bubbly(or, rather, a plastic cup o sponsor Kim Crawords SauvignonBlanc). The Fall 2011 New York shows heralded Papercuts rstashion week, and wed like to think that we passed with fyingcolors (preerably Pantones Honeysuckle and Deep Teal!).

A day in the lie went something like this: arrive; check intohotel; taxi to meeting at Hotel Chelsea; taxi uptown to LincolnCenter; shows; coee; shows; more coee; pit stop at Rosa Mexi-cano or taquitos and liquid sustenance; another meeting; moreshows; back downtown to boutique party; taxi back to one lastshow; taxi downtown to change; party; stu ace; sleep; wakeup, hope theres time to shower (i not, throw on new Mercurashades) and do it all over again.

Somewhere in the mix, we ound the time to take some pho-tos and write some reviews (many thanks to our photographers,Greg and Diallo). From Joy Ciocis ethereal emininity and rst-ever collection, to Sachin + Babis muted palette and tailored, la-dylike silhouettes, were thrilled to share our avorites rom theseasons emerging set o designers. Welcomeociallyto thePapercut club, and cheers to many more ashion weeks to come.

Much love,The Papercut team

TOP-BOTTOM: A view o Lincoln Center (looks pretty calm on the

outside...); Lubov Azria and Karolina Kurkova are swarmed by the

paparazzi backstage at Herv Lger; nale walk at Tibi.


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IN THIS ISSUEDAY 106BCBGMAXAZRIA07Richard Chai08Duckie Brown09Luca Luca10Tadashi Shoji11Christian Siriano12Mara HomanDAY 216Ruan17Perry Ellis18Farah Angsana19Rebecca Taylor20Rebecca Minko21Nicole Miller22Cynthia Rowley24Academy o Art University25Venexiana26Joy Cioci

DAY 330General Idea31Jill Stuart32Prabal Gurung33ADAM34Vivienne Tam35Mik Cire36Charlotte Ronson37

Toni Francesc

38G-Star RAWDAY 442Lela Rose43Max Azria44Cynthia Stee45Tommy Hilger46Custo Barcelona48Zang Toi50Yoana Baraschi

DAY 554Jenny Packham55Carolina Herrera56Carlos Miele57Tracy Reese58Monique Lhuillier59Betsey Johnson60Woolrich John Rich & Bros.61Callula Lillibelle62 GUiSHEM64Sachin + Babi

DAY 668Badgley Mischka69Vera Wang70Jen Kao71Herv Lger By Max Azria72

Dennis Basso

73J. Mendel74Tibi75Narciso Rodriguez76Mackage78Trias80Bibhu MohapatraDAY 784Michael Kors86Nanette Lepore87Alexandre Herchcovitch88Anna Sui90Elie Tahari

DAY 894Son Jung Wan96Ivana Helsinki98 L.A.M.B.

ALL PHOTOGRAPHY (UNLESS NOTED OTHERWISE) BY GREGORY BROWN AT HTTP://WWW.GREGORYBROWNPHOTO.COM/


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DAY 1


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BCBGMAXAZRIA


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RICHARD CHAI



DUCKIE BROWN


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LUCA LUCA


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TADASHI SHOJI


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CHRISTIAN SIRIANO


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MARA HOFFMAN

DESIGNER: Mara Homan NYC VIA: Bualo, NY LAUNCH: 2000HER AESTHETIC AND INSPIRATION: Sexy, unky swimwear; ethnic prints

inspired by nature and her world travels; bold colors with black accents;sot, bohemian dresses perect or breezing through the bazaars o Mo-

rocco. BIG BREAK: Ater toiling away in design school (Parsons and Cen-tral Saint Martins), Mara was stopped on the streets o New York by

Sex in the Citystylist Patricia Field, complimented on her outt and the

rest, as they say, is history. FAVORITES FROM THE FALL 2011 COLLECTION:Full-length, original silk-print dress with matching veilpattern is pretty

enough that it doesnt overwhelm, and the abric alls oh-so-lovely. Black,

rope-knit corset crop top. Mens textured, leather bomber, or the hipster-

chic in all o us. CELEBRITY FOLLOWING: Katy Perry, Halle Berry, MeganFox, Rihanna, Jennier Lopez, Drew Barrymore, Lauren Conrad and Eva

Longoria. LOVE: Her blog. Stream-o-consciousness in style, eaturingrandom tidbits rom photos and works o art to musings on her inspira-

tion. MARA SAYS: Lets runway to the jungle, or real. Truly pieces or

the global traveler, who calls the world home.PHOTOS BY DIALLO FERGUSON


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DAY 2


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RUFFIAN


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PERRY ELLIS



FARAH ANGSANA


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REBECCA MINKOFF


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NICOLE MILLER



CYNTHIA ROWLEY


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ACADEMY OF ART UNIVERSITY


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VENEXIANA


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JOY CIOCIDESIGNER: Joy Cioci NYC VIA: Florida LAUNCH: 2011 HER AESTHETICAND INSPIRATION: Romantic, draping, pretty, sotand sexy; an ethe-real, airytale quality; romantic lilacs and roses, and ladylike grays and

nudes; rabbit ur, Swarovski crystal, cashmere, silk and chion all speak

to the epitome o emininity. LONG TIME COMING: Having come roma solid design backgroundwith experience at both established ash-

ion houses (Gucci, Carolina Herrera and Nina Ricci) and independent

brands (Chelsea Flower and WiNK)Joy sought to make her own linea meeting o those two worlds: accessible luxury. FAVORITES FROM THEFALL 2011 COLLECTION: Dicult to play avorites. The collection meldsseamlessly as a whole, and each look is as gorgeous and inspired as

the last. A bomber jacket in silk crepe, embroidered with Swarovski

crystal and paired with pale pink ryder pants were just as lust-worthy in

person as they were in a WWDteaser. Tree bark pleated yoke pants and

shorts added volume and dimension to a marbled leather jacket and

feece corset bodysuit. Oversized cashmere cable tunics and matching

chevron knit leggings were luxuriously cozy; a silk georgette scalloped

and beaded dress in dusky rose had an air o mystery under a hooded

velvet coat with knit rabbit ur sleeves. CELEBRITY FOLLOWING: Checkout Brooklyn Decker on the red carpet o the Vanity FairOscar party,

in Joys Lisa dress. Not a bad start. LOVE: Absolutelyeverything.JOY SAYS: That her Mercedes Benz Fashion Week launch was a longtime coming, and elt weirdI had been working or other labels or so

long that it elt like I was doing it or someone else. Luckily, though,

it sounds like shell get used to her own success: Expect a lot more.

My goal is to create versatile pieces, not necessarily quintessential to

the season, or ollowing whatever trend. I want the reedom to play

around with things.

PHOTOS BY DIALLO FERGUSON


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DAY 3


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JILL STUART



PRABAL GURUNG


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ADAM



VIVIENNE TAM


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MIK CIRE



CHARLOTTE RONSON


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TONI FRANCESC



G-STAR RAW


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DAY 4


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LELA ROSE


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CYNTHIA STEFFE


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CUSTO BARCELONA


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ZANG TOI


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YOANA BARASCHIDESIGNER: Yoana Baraschi NYC VIA: Bucharest, Romania LAUNCH: 2002HER AESTHETIC AND INSPIRATION: Knitwear; young, un and playul; anew print every season; vintage embroidery; a strong sense o color and

love or traditional artisanal techniques. Made or firting with boys and

dancing on banquets. BORN THIS WAY: Raised in a amily o artists,rich in color and style. Yoanas mother, Elli Baraschi, was an educator

and a true ashion icon who elt that being stylish and elegant was the

ultimate creative expression or a woman. Her ather, Constantin Baras-chi, a leading gure in the Romanian art world, was a renowned sculp-

tor and Dean o the Fine Arts Institute. FAVORITES FROM THE FALL 2011COLLECTION: A beautiully draped, rust-colored, foor-length dress, thatpools at the eet with a deep-V neck and knotted shoulders. Rich,

belted ur jacket with an immense collar. Nude, polka-dot blouse,

complete with tie and ballon sleeves. Grey and white ur vest with cap

sleeves. CELEBRITY FOLLOWING: Halle Berry, Sienna Miller, Paris Hil-ton, Rachel Bilson, Heidi Klum and Lauren Conrad. LOVE: The design-ers angelic ace, extensive (and eclectic!) background and her un,

user-riendly website. YOANAS FALL 2011 COLLECTION WAS ABOUT:Hypernature: a digital-age adventure in a aux-real world where height-

ened nature becomes hyper-colored or a surreal eect. As brought to

lie by androgynous Serbian-Australian model Andrej Pejic.

PHOTOS BY NICOLE BECHARD


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DAY 5


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JENNY PACKHAM


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CAROLINA HERRERA



CARLOS MIELE


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TRACY REESE



MONIQUE LHUILLIER


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BETSEY JOHNSON



WOOLRICH JOHN RICH & BROS.



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GUiSHEM



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SACHIN + BABI



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DAY 6


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BADGLEY MISCHKA


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VERA WANG



JEN KAO


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HERV LGER BY MAX AZRIA



DENNIS BASSO


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J. MENDEL



TIBI


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NARCISO RODRIGUEZ



MACKAGE


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TRIAS



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BIBHU MOHAPATRA

DESIGNER: Bibhu Mohapatra. NYC VIA: Orissa, India. LAUNCH: 2009.HIS AESTHETIC AND INSPIRATION: Rich palettes; asymmetrical andgeometrical shapes; elegant strength and purposeul details; cus-

tom couture; evening gowns and cocktail dresses; glamour and ur,

dahling. Inspired by a love o his native treasures: sumptuous Indian

abrics, vibrant colors and intricate crats. YOUVE COME A LONG WAY,BABY: Bibhu got his start at a young age, designing dresses or hissister. In June 2010, he was inducted as a member o the Council

o Fashion Designers o America. FAVORITES FROM THE FALL 2011COLLECTION: Floor-length gown, hal-matte black, hal-sequined, withasymmetric sleeves and a cutout shoulder. Cropped winter white

Mongolian ur jacket. CELEBRITY FOLLOWING: Salma Hayek, CateBlanchett, Gwyneth Paltrow and Snookie. Just kidding. LOVE: TheFUR. The elegance. Also the Bibhu Mohapatra ont on his website.

BIBHU SAYS: My cultural heritage has always been infuential in mydesign process even though it seeps through in many subtle ways. My

work is always a study o opposites. The balance between my Indian

heritage and my training and experience in the west is what I think

sets me apart.



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DAY 7


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MICHAEL KORS


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NANETTE LEPORE


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ALEXANDRE HERCHCOVITCH



ANNA SUI


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ELIE TAHARI


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DAY 8


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SON JUNG WAN


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IVANA HELSINKI



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Papercut Magazine MBFW Runway Recap F/W 2011