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CHAPTER THIRTEEN: • PAINTS • AEROSOLS • WOOD FINISHES • INTERIOR DECOR • PAINT SUNDRIES • HOUSEHOLD ADHESIVES • REPAIR/PATCHING TOOLS & MATERIALS • CAULKS AND SEALANTS • GLAZING MATERIALS • LADDERS PAINT & Decorating 13

PAINT & Decorating - NRHA · Low-emissivity interior paint can lower ... Latex and oil-based house paints are for- ... PAINT & DECORATING AEROSOLS WOOD FINISHES

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Page 1: PAINT & Decorating - NRHA · Low-emissivity interior paint can lower ... Latex and oil-based house paints are for- ... PAINT & DECORATING AEROSOLS WOOD FINISHES

CHAPTER THIRTEEN:

• PAINTS

• AEROSOLS

• WOOD FINISHES

• INTERIOR DECOR

• PAINT SUNDRIES

• HOUSEHOLD ADHESIVES

• REPAIR/PATCHING TOOLS & MATERIALS

• CAULKS AND SEALANTS

• GLAZING MATERIALS

• LADDERS

PAINT &Decorating

1133

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P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G

2

NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES

■ Paint should be viewed as a project starter,since the consumer rarely needs just a can ofpaint to complete their project. A goodsalesperson should always try to build on abasic paint sale by asking the customerabout the surface they intend to paint on,which helps them suggest the right paintand applicator. And since poor surface preparation leads to dissatisfied customers,make sure employees are familiar with the ins and outs of proper surface preparationand stress these points to the customer.

Consumers often lack the information they need to complete an entire paint anddecorating project. Sometimes the vast array of choices can be confusing to con-sumers, who may find their options overwhelming when choosing a caulk, spraypaint or wood stain. The emergence of the Internet has led manufacturers to devel-op Web sites that can help educate customers before they head to a store. Still, manyconsumers expect their local retailer to have all the answers.

Consumers are becoming more knowledgeable about decorating projects, butwhat they really want are products that make their work easier—both faster to com-plete and more satisfying to look at when completed. Make sure your employees areprepared to explain why certain products can bring inferior results when used on dif-ferent surfaces.

Decorative finishing has arrived as a strong growth category, as consumers havebecome interested in a wide range of projects such as faux finishing and stenciling.Many retailers have responded to consumer demand by going beyond just having awell-stocked inventory—hosting project clinics, designing attractive vignettes and dis-plays, having colour-matching computers on the salesfloor or hiring design consult-ants. Along with personal selling skills, having the right knowledge about productsand their capabilities is instrumental to ensuring sales of paint, coatings, applicatorsand other decorative items.

Retailers should educate themselves to answer questions about reformulated prod-ucts. For example, some reformulated oil-based products require more applicationsand take longer to dry. Be sure that you and your staff take time to familiarize your-selves with the products you carry and the regulations in your area. Request and readmanufacturer literature and product labels.

PAINT &Decorating

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PAINTSPaint is comprised of three components:

the binder, the pigment (color) and the liq-

uid. The best paints contain a higher volume

of solid material (binder and pigment) than

ordinary paints do.

The binder is the most important factor in

paint’s durability. The type and amount of

binder affect several aspects of the product’s

quality, such as stain resistance, crack resist-

ance, adhesion and gloss.

Pigment is comprised of the finely ground

particles that are dispersed in the paint. The

most common prime pigment is titanium

dioxide (TiO2), which is used in both oil-

based and latex paints. Meanwhile, extender

pigments provide bulk, and they enhance

qualities such as stain and chalk resistance;

better paints have a lower ratio of extender

pigment to binder.

The paint’s liquid is either water (in latex

paints) or solvent (in oil-based).

Additives are also used in paint to

enhance performance, application, appear-

ance or protection. Mildewcide is one addi-

tive used in exterior paints, while preserva-

tives prevent spoilage during storage.

Latex PaintsLatex paints are easily applied. Latex

paint films on exterior wood also allow

moisture to evaporate through the film—a

quality that will help reduce blistering. In

addition to being thinnable with water,

the advantages of latex paints (compared

to oil-based) are:

o less odour

o water cleanup

o non-flammability

o faster drying times (one to three hours)

o ease of touch-ups

o ease of application, even on damp surfaces

o better gloss and less fading on exterior

surfaces

o no yellowing on interior surfaces

o greater flexibility

o a lesser likelihood of cracking and peeling.

Top-quality latex paints tend to have

binder that is 100 percent acrylic, which

gives them excellent durability on diverse

surface styles, including masonry and alu-

minum. They also adhere better, making

them less likely to flake.

The disadvantages, especially of some

lower-quality products, are poorer adhesion

to badly weathered or chalking surfaces and,

in some cases, less effective hiding qualities.

Oil-Based PaintsOil-based paints consist of a pigment that

exists within a substance made of resins and

thinners. When thinners evaporate, the resins

form a hard coating and the pigment pro-

vides the color. The contents of oil-based

paints make them harder to apply, although

this same characteristic can also give them a

heavier coverage on the first coat.

The best qualities of oil-based paints are

their effective penetration of the surface and

excellent adhesion. And oil-based paints have

advantages over latex paints in a couple of

specific circumstances: they adhere better to

chalky surfaces and they provide better results

for anyone repainting a surface that already

has four layers or more of oil-based paint.

If a consumer does not want to invest in a

high-end latex paint, he or she can be

advised that an oil-based paint may provide

better flow and leveling than a lower-end

latex paint, as well as smoother finish after

drying with fewer brush or roller marks.

However, oil-based paints have certain dis-

advantages, particularly the odour and the

longer drying time (8 to 24 hours). Solvents,

thinners or turpentine are also necessary for

cleanup, and oil-based paints cannot be

applied to moist surfaces.

Interior Paints and EnamelsInterior finish paints are sold in both

water-based (latex) and oil-based (alkyd) for-

mulations. Latex paints are the most com-

mon sold for interior projects. Interior paints

are available in different gloss levels such as

flat, satin, eggshell, semi-gloss and high-

gloss, although there are no industry stan-

dards for these terms.

High-gloss enamels provide a tough,

washable finish for areas that endure a lot of

traffic or wear and for rooms that require

resistance to moisture, dirt and grease—such

as the bathroom and kitchen.

Flat paints leave a duller (or “matte”) finish

without shine. Flat paints are usually applied

to ceilings and irregular wall surfaces, except

in kitchens and baths where semi-gloss or

gloss paints can better withstand the frequent

washings required in these two rooms. Flat

paints usually have either an alkyd base that

thins with turpentine or mineral spirits or a

latex base that thins with water.

Alkyd flat paints may hide better with

one coat than latex flats do, but brushes

and other tools must be washed with tur-

pentine or a similar solvent. Latex flats

P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G

3

NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES

RECOMMENDING THE PROPER PAINT

OIL-BASED EXTERIOR PAINTS—Primer is needed on new wood and new hardboard (includ-ing pre-primed) for oil-based exterior paints. Two- or three-day wait recommended before anyoil-based paint is applied after rain. They are not recommended for application over masonry.Requires 12 to 48 hours to dry, depending on local conditions. Clean brushes and tools withturpentine.

LATEX EXTERIOR PAINTS—Need alkyd or good latex primers on new wood. Have a man-made latex binder rather than naturally occurring oils, but even most exterior oil-based prod-ucts contain a man-made binder. There are very few 100 percent oil paints left today. They areresistant to moisture and dry to touch in 30 minutes (under normal conditions). Brushes androllers wash in water.

VINYL-BASED EXTERIOR PAINTS—Need latex primer on new surfaces. Should be applied inheavy layers. Takes four to 12 hours to dry. Brushes and rollers wash in water.

INTERIOR PAINTS—Latex paints are water-based; alkyd paint, oil-based. Water-based paintsdry faster than oil, and, as a rule, do not give off “painty” odors common to oil. Quality alkydpaints form a tough non-porous surface that makes them conducive to washing. Latex is easierto use because cleanup is done with water.

EPOXY COATINGS—Require undercoat and surface preparation. Go on like paint, but looklike porcelain after they dry. Used on ceramic tile, walls, bowls and appliances. Will not stick ifapplied over ordinary paint. Offers the toughest finish available.

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spread easily, especially on porous sur-

faces, and seldom require a primer. Tools

can be cleaned with water.

Satin and eggshell finishes are typically

recommended for most walls. Although low

in sheen, they are easier to clean than flat

paints due to their higher binder content.

Semi-gloss paints are recommended for

windows, doors, wood trim and other

woodwork; these surfaces get more wear,

fingerprints and soil than walls. Because

glossier enamels wash more readily, they

are more desirable. Semi-gloss latex paints

serve well as finishes for wood trim areas.

They, too, can be cleaned with water.

Enamels and gloss paints tend to show

brush and roller marks, so preparation of

interior surfaces is vital to good end

results—as is careful application by the

painter. Surfaces must be washed thor-

oughly and rinsed with clear water and

then completely dried before repainting.

Cracks and holes must be repaired, and

patched areas must be spot-primed.

If surfaces are badly soiled, a trisodium

phosphate (TSP) cleaner may be necessary.

However, phosphates are a recognized pol-

lutant. TSP is more prone to deposit crys-

tals that impair adhesion than some other

products are. When repainting glossy sur-

faces, sufficient cleaning materials must be

used to dull surfaces, or they should be

lightly sanded. (An alternative to sanding

is a liquid cleaning/dulling solvent).

High-gloss surfaces typically do not pro-

vide good adhesion for new coats of paint;

deglossers may be necessary.

Also be sure that consumers know not

to paint over wallpaper. Once painted,

wallpaper is extremely difficult to remove.

Low-emissivity interior paint can lower

heating and cooling costs. It acts like a

premium interior latex paint, but contains

low-E particles that reflect radiant energy

to keep rooms feeling warmer in winter

and cooler in summer. It operates in prin-

ciple like low-E glass windows.

■ EXTERIOR PAINTSHouse Paints

Latex and oil-based house paints are for-

mulated to withstand wear and exposure

to severe weather conditions. Many manu-

facturers offer specific formulations for

regional climates.

For good adhesion, surface preparation is

critical. Consumers should scrape as much old

paint as possible from the surface and then

sand to feather the edges of scraped areas. The

surface then should be washed with a strong

detergent solution. For more information, see

(Removing Old Paint & Varnish).Latex exterior paint is available with

polyurethane added, so it can be applied

over dirty or chalky surfaces without scrub-

bing or sanding.

Major problems associated with house

paints are generally due to:

o failure to follow manufacturer’s directions

o excessive moisture

o painting wet surfaces

o painting during inclement weather

o failure to use proper primer coat

o failure to clean the surface completely.

Any of these conditions can cause blistering,

peeling, early fading or similar problems. For

more information, see (CorrectingCommon Paint Problems).

Trim PaintsTrim paints are chosen to contrast with

house colour. They dry quickly to a hard fin-

ish; they are primarily for use on window

frames, shutters and railings.

They are not recommended for large

surfaces.

Flat finishes, which mark easily, should

not be used on doors, door frames or other

areas that are exposed to wear. Satin or gloss

paints are recommended for these areas.

Masonry PaintsMasonry surfaces include stucco, concrete,

brick, cement, etc. Most masonry paints are

acrylic latex-based. Oil-based paint is not rec-

ommended for masonry because of the resid-

ual alkalinity in the masonry.

Most latex-based masonry paints require a

special pre-treatment or bonding primer to tie

down old chalk and dust before application.

Rough surfaces should first receive a

coat of block-filler. Acrylic elastomeric

coatings bridge cracks and pinholes to pro-

vide the best waterproofing.

Powdered cement paints, which have a

shorter exterior life than latex coatings,

must be mixed with water. They can be

applied only over a porous masonry surface

such as brick, stucco or concrete, or over

surfaces that have been previously coated

P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G

4

NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES

HOW TO ESTIMATE FOR HOUSE AND INTERIOR PAINTS

DISTANCE AVERAGE AVERAGE AVERAGE AVERAGE AVERAGEAROUND HEIGHT HEIGHT HEIGHT HEIGHT HEIGHT

HOUSE IN FT. 12’ 15’ 18’ 21’ 24’

60 feet 5.7 L 7.6 L 8.5 L 9.5 L 11.4 L

92 8.5 10.4 13.3 15.1 17.0

124 11.4 14.2 17.0 19.9 22.7

140 13.3 16.1 18.9 22.7 26.5

172 16.1 19.9 22.7 27.5 32.2

DISTANCE PAINT FINISHIN FEET CEILING CEILING CEILING CEILING FOR FOR

AROUND ROOM 8’ 8-1/2’ 9’ 9-1/2’ CEILING FLOORS

30 feet 2.4 L 2.4 L 2.9 L 3.0 L 0.5 L 0.5 L

40 3.3 3.4 3.6 3.8 1.0 1.0

50 3.8 4.1 4.4 4.7 1.4 1.0

60 4.7 4.9 5.1 5.2 1.9 1.4

70 5.2 5.5 5.8 6.2 2.8 1.9

80 5.7 6.2 6..7 7.1 3.8 2.4

CHART COURTESY OF HYDE TOOLS AND DUTCH BOY PAINTS.

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with this same kind of paint. For proper

adhesion, the old surface must be wetted

down thoroughly and the paint applied to

the damp surface.

Masonry paint can be waterproof as well

as decorative. For best colour retention,

coat with a good acrylic latex paint 30

days after application of waterproof

masonry paint.

Gutter Paints Latex paints adhere better to galvanized

steel and aluminum gutters. Oil-based

works better on tin gutters.

Galvanized gutters require priming both

inside and out. Pickling them with a 5 per-

cent muriatic acid solution is recommend-

ed. They may also be cleaned with a coarse

cloth that has been dampened with paint

thinner—or they can be left unpainted for

three to six months to allow weather etch-

ings for better adhesion.

Oil-based paints should never be applied

directly to unpainted galvanized metal.

They will eventually peel off. A galvanized

metal primer must be applied first. Acrylic

latex paint can be applied to unpainted

galvanized gutters as long as they have

been cleaned thoroughly.

Shingle PaintsShingle paints are used primarily to pro-

vide surface protection for wood shingles.

These paints are low in pigment and leave

only a light colour on the surface.

In some instances, shingle paints may

be applied without a primer. Where the

surface is badly weathered, recommenda-

tions may call for a companion primer,

undercoater or two finish coats. Check

manufacturers’ literature for recommenda-

tions with specific products.

Floor PaintsFloor paints (or “deck enamels”) are

designed for surfaces that will be exposed

to foot traffic and other wear and tear

common on household floors. Ordinary

high-gloss enamel is not suitable.

Floor enamels are formulated to with-

stand such weather and wear on wood and

concrete. They come in both oil-based and

latex formulas.

Since oil-based paints will not adhere to

damp surfaces, they are not recommended

for many concrete surfaces, especially in

moisture-prone areas like basements and

patios. Poor adhesion, peeling and lifting

are common effects of concrete flooring

on oil-based paint.

Conventional floor paints also work

poorly on garage floors. Hot car tires make

the floor paint stick to the tires and lift off

the floor. Concrete floors that have been

penetrated by oils, gasoline, etc., are virtu-

ally impossible to paint anyway because

cleaning these surfaces well enough to

make paint adhere is very difficult.

However, an extra advantage of latex floor

paints is that resilient floor tile can be laid

without removing the old paint. This is not

possible with other floor paints.

■ SPECIAL-PURPOSE PAINTSAcoustical Ceiling Paint

Special acoustical ceiling paint forms a

porous film that will not reduce the noise-

reducing properties of acoustical tile. It can

be applied with a brush, roller or sprayer.

Luminous PaintLuminous paint is designed to glow in

complete darkness for up to 12 hours after

exposure to direct sunlight. It is used on

wall plates, house numbers, stair edges, fuse

boxes and other spots around the house.

Glow-in-the-dark spray paint sticks to

almost any surface, from car keys and bicy-

cles to tools and toys. It is green and easily

applied in a one-step application. Exposure

to light recharges painted surface.

Aluminum PaintHigh-quality aluminum paint is alu-

minum blended with a resin base. It

works equally well on almost any surface

and may be brushed or sprayed. Colours

become more intense with age.

Aluminum paint can be used on all

interior and exterior metal or wood sur-

faces, or applied to metal flashing, gut-

ters, downspouts, tools, tool sheds, patio

furniture, pipes, mailboxes, fences, etc.

Do not apply aluminum paint during

freezing temperatures; paint should dry at

least overnight before recoating.

Texture PaintTexture paint seals most minor imper-

fections in walls and ceilings and leaves a

decorator finish, although larger holes

and cracks must be filled.

Texture paint is available as a liquid base

with tinting colours or as a powder in several

colours. The paints also come in several con-

sistencies, ranging from smooth formulas to

larger texture particles in sandy textures—

including even coarse stucco finishes, which

create the deepest texture.

If desired, rollers, putty knives, trowels

and other applicators create a variety of

patterns or designs, such as swirls and

deep texture finishes. After these finishes

have been applied and allowed to dry, the

surfaces can be painted any colour. Texture

paint also may be tinted before application.

P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G

5

NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES

DO’S AND DON’TS OF INTERIOR PAINTING

DO

Wash all grease and dirt off walls andwoodwork.

Patch cracks in walls and ceilingsbefore painting.

Seal all new surfaces with a primer.

Scrape off all loose paint and sand thesurface to a smooth finish.

Stir paint thoroughly before any appli-cations.

Allow new plaster to dry before painting.

Properly ventilate area to be painted.

DON’T

Don’t expect good results on dirty sur-faces.

Don’t paint over a damp surface withoilbase paints.

Don’t apply the second coat of paintuntil the first coat has dried properly.

Don’t sand woodwork across the grain.

Don’t change cans of paint in the mid-dle of a wall area.

Don’t add thinner to the productunless directions call for it.

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LacquersLacquers are the fastest-drying finishes. In

fact, consumers should be advised to work

fast with lacquers. Also suggest a 50/50 mix-

ture of lacquer and lacquer thinner (each

preferably made by the same manufacturer).

Lacquers should be applied only to new

wood or over previously lacquered surfaces.

They cannot be used over old paint or var-

nish; the solvents will lift old finishes.

Lacquers should be handled with extreme

caution. Fumes are noxious—especially dan-

gerous to the user in a closed room. In addi-

tion, fire and explosion hazards are much

greater than with ordinary paints and var-

nishes.

Lacquers are available in clear or colours.

They are usually difficult to apply by brush.

However, some manufacturers do offer spe-

cially formulated versions that apply more

easily with a brush.

Lacquer thinners are required to clean

tools.

Epoxy FinishesEpoxy finishes are primarily for bare or

previously finished wood floors. They also

eliminate “dusting” when applied to con-

crete floors. They penetrate rapidly and can

be applied with a brush or mop.

An epoxy finish adheres to most surfaces

and is especially good for doors, cabinets,

trim and furniture—any interior wood sur-

face where a clear-gloss, easy-to-clean finish

is desired. It resists detergent, oil and alkali,

but may lose gloss and chalk under expo-

sure to sun and weather.

Epoxy finishes are formulated in one- or

two-part systems. Two-part epoxies come in

kits containing equal size cans and contents

are mixed; they are more chemical- and

abrasion-resistant than one-component

epoxies.

Paint AdditivesConditioners can be added to either oil-

based or latex paints for a variety of rea-

sons—to keep edges wet longer, to pre-

vent lapping, to allow the paint to cover

better or to lessen drag on the paint appli-

cator. Conditioners also lessen paint clog-

ging in spraying systems. Some additives

are designed to give latex some of the bet-

ter qualities of oil-based paints.

Odor killer is a new additive that is particu-

larly useful for oil-based paints. It is added on

a per-quart basis and is relatively inexpensive.

One new paint additive uses new technolo-

gy to transform paintable areas into magnetic

surfaces. Magnetic paint, which can be used

with any type or colour of latex, oil-based,

acrylic or enamel paint, has liquid metal

properties that will attract magnets. Users

can then hang pictures, signs, artwork or any

magnetic items they choose. It can also be

used as a primer to turn a wall into a magnet-

ic chalkboard. Two coats are recommended

for best results.

Insecticides can be added to paint, but

they should be added for outdoor use only.

Insecticide is poured into the paint, and the

paint is then applied as usual. Insects sus-

ceptible to the poison include spiders, ants,

silverfish, ticks, roaches and earwigs.

Some paint manufacturers warn that

additives may not live up to their claims.

They may even have adverse effects, such

as increasing mildew growth. They can

also void paint warranties, so check man-

ufacturer policies and literature.

PrimersPriming the surface before applying a top-

coat ensures better and longer-lasting results.

Primers and stain-killing primer-sealers are

designed to seal porous surfaces, block out

stains, promote adhesion of the topcoat and

hide unwanted colours.

Primers improve adhesion, prevent

stains on the surface from bleeding

through the finish paint and seal porous

surfaces. Sealing the surface helps save on

paint and prevents paint resins from soak-

ing unevenly into the substrate.

Ferrous metal surfaces should be primed

with two coats of primer. Using an acrylic

latex or oil-based, corrosion-resistant primer

will reduce the likelihood of the rust reap-

pearing. The primer should be applied

immediately after cleaning the surface and

letting it dry. A stain-blocking primer

should be applied to new galvanized metal

before applying an oil-based topcoat.

Some customers may request that you

tint the primer to match the tint of their

paint. This often reduces the need for a

second coat of paint, since the color in

the first coat is less likely to be diluted by

the primer.

Acrylic block fillers should be used to

prime concrete block.

Stain-killing primer-sealers are oil-

based, water-based or shellac-based. They

prime virtually anything that needs paint-

ing, including metal, masonry, wood, dry-

wall and previously painted surfaces. They

are typically white-pigmented and can be

tinted to match the color of the topcoat

to reduce the amount of finish paint

needed for the job.

Shellac-based primer-sealers are ideal

for interior woodwork and spot-priming

knots on exterior wood. They are best for

sealing off troublesome stains from water

leaks, mildew and fire damage, and seal

off odors from smoke and pets. They

clean up with alcohol or a 1:3 solution of

household ammonia in water.

Water-based primer-sealers bind mod-

erately chalky surfaces and offer good

adhesion to glossy surfaces and metals.

They are almost odorless and clean up

P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G

6

NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES

HOW TO HANDLE LEAD-BASED PAINT

Customers who mention that they currently have lead-based paint in their homes should bestrongly warned not to remove it themselves before they proceed with their repainting orremodeling projects. Such activity can release dust or chips from lead paint into the air—stirringa dangerous substance into the atmosphere of the home.

Exposure can cause irreversible damage to children and adults alike—such as nervous-systemdamage, slowed growth and other problems in children and reproductive problems, mentaldifficulties and nerve disorders in adults.

If your customers are concerned, recommend that they contact their local office of HealthCanada.

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with soap and water.

Oil-based primer-sealers can be used on

both interior and exterior surfaces. They

work well for nicotine stains and cedar

bleed. They give off a low odor and clean

up with mineral spirits (paint thinner).

AEROSOLS

Aerosol consists of propellant and the

product itself, which can be in the form

of a liquid, foam or semi-solid. Valve

modifications have improved the spray

pattern of aerosol paints; some permit

spraying in any position, even upside

down to touch up water spots on ceilings.

There are three kinds of propellants: hydro-

carbons (liquid propellants), carbon dioxide (a

compressed gas) and dimethyl ether.

Hydrocarbons are effective as propel-

lants because they turn to vapour as the

product is used and then fill the void left

by the decrease in product.

Carbon dioxide does not maintain a con-

stant pressure, so it is best recommended

where a coarse, wet spray is needed and

where the distance to be sprayed is short.

Inhalation of substantial amounts of

the propellant gases may be harmful to

health. Caution customers that aerosols

are effective and safe—as long as the

product is used in well-ventilated areas.

For most aerosols, instructions on the can

make usage easy, but paint is different

because kinds and qualities vary greatly.

The first place to evaluate quality in

aerosol paints is on the can—by noting

the percentage of paint to propellant. The

fill ratio used by manufacturers will vary.

So will the kinds of propellant.

The most common propellant is a light-

weight hydrocarbon. A common fill ratio

for a hydrocarbon is about 77 percent/23

percent. That means a 300 g can would

contain 230 g of paint by weight and only

70 g of propellant.

The formulation of the paint itself can

vary. Some formulas cover better; others

last longer; some provide a brighter gloss.

Aside from those differences, the type of

finish and length of wear are used to classi-

fy paints used in aerosols. Generic terms

such as “enamel” and “lacquer” are used,

but they also encompass a variety of film-

forming resins with differing characteristics.

Read labels and manufacturers’ literature for

a description of actual features.

Primers, stainless steel coatings, faux

finishes, anti-slip sprays, rust preventers

and graffiti removers all come in aerosol

form. A combination stain and varnish is

also available in an aerosol spray,

although it is tricky to apply evenly.

Spray-on latex paint is available that is

safe to use indoors or outdoors, resists

scratches and cleans up easily with soap and

water. It can be applied to wood, metal,

wicker, clay, plaster and plastic materials.

There are also three different spray-on

glass finishes. The transparent paint can

be used to add colour to glass making it

look like stained glass. The semi-transpar-

ent paint gives a frosted glass look. The

reflective finish can be used to create mir-

rored finishes.

Numerous cities and a handful of states

have enacted legislation to regulate

aerosol spray paint, either prohibiting

sales to minors or requiring spray paints

to be locked up. Make sure you are famil-

iar with any requirements in your area.

WOOD FINISHES

Wood Sealer/Wood ConditionerWood sealer is used on softwoods to help

tame wild grain patterns and to even up

stain absorbency. The sealer penetrates the

wood, which allows a more even colour

appearance and grain pattern.

Wood StainsThere are two major types of wood

stains: semi-transparent and solid-colour

(opaque). Semi-transparent stains can be

applied over bare wood or wood previous-

ly coated by a semi-transparent stain (but

not sealed). Solid-colour stains can be

applied over bare wood and previously

stained surfaces—and even over painted

surfaces that are in sound condition.

The essential difference between the

two types is: Semi-transparent stains

impart colour, but the texture and the

natural grain of the wood continues to

show through; while on solid-colour

stains, the texture still shows through, but

not the grain itself.

Exterior stains are used primarily on

wood siding and shingles, decks, outdoor

structures and furniture. They are avail-

able in latex and oil-based formulas. Oil-

based stains penetrate the wood, and they

erode with weathering. Latex stains do

not typically fade as rapidly. When stain-

ing exterior wood decks, semi-transparent

oil-based stains are generally a better

choice. Solid-colour stains are better for

decks with badly weathered wood.

Because of their excellent adhesion proper-

ties, latex stains are often recommended for

surfaces that were previously stained or paint-

ed with oil-based products. Latex is also rec-

ommended for woods such as cedar, redwood

and cypress—those that have natural resist-

ance to rotting. However, putting a light-

coloured stain on these woods can result in

brown discolouration. Latex stains also can

withstand less abuse than their oil-based

counterparts.

If the deck is made of pressure-treated

wood, it should be stained two to five

months after installation. Many home-

owners believe—wrongly—that pressure-

treated wood is automatically protected

from the elements. It is protected from

insects, but it remains vulnerable to sun

and moisture, which can cause splitting,

drying, cracking and graying.

There are water-repellent preservative

stains, which contain a fungicide and

water repellent. They protect against

decay and mildew, as well as warping,

splitting, cracking and general deteriora-

tion. Water-repellent stains can be oil- or

latex-based stains in transparent and

semi-transparent finishes.

Clear coatings come in both water-

based and oil-based formulations, for inte-

rior and exterior use. They are applied on

bare or stained surfaces such as doors,

windows, trim and furniture.

Timber oil is a wood finish designed to

penetrate exotic hardwoods such as

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mahogany and teak. This specialty wood fin-

ish helps preserve the hardwood and main-

tain its natural appearance. Available in sever-

al shades, timber oil is a combination of tung

oil, linseed oil and long-oil alkyds. In general,

teak should be treated with oil-based formu-

las. Since teak is denser than many other

common woods, wood protector should be

applied with a brush or by rubbing it in with

a cotton cloth.

Interior stains, used for furniture and

woodwork, come in either pigmented or

dye categories. Both can have oil, synthet-

ic or water bases. Pigmented stains colour

the wood with the same type of pigments

used in paint. They range in colour from

almost clear to semi-transparent. They are

easy to apply—usually brushed on or

wiped on with a rag, then wiped off

enough to control the depth of the stain.

They leave no brush or lap marks if

applied properly. Dye stains are more dif-

ficult to use and are more frequently used

by professionals. Most dye stains come in

powders—to be mixed in a solvent—and

most are highly flammable. D-i-yers most

often use pre-mixed dyes.

Dye stains offer deeper penetration of

wood surfaces and less grain hiding.

However, they also fade more quickly

than pigmented stains and require more

effort to prepare the wood. Water-based

dyes tend to raise the grain on many

woods because the water penetrates the

wood and raises the tiny fibers. Wood

should be wetted first, then sanded down

before applying water-based dyes. Also

keep in mind that water-based stains dry

quickly, making it difficult to get an even

coat on a large surface.

Non-grain-raising (NGR) dyes are dis-

solved in a NGR solvent. They dry faster

than water-based counterparts, so applica-

tion must be faster to avoid lap marks.

Coloured oil finishes, such as Danish

oil, tung oil or Swedish oil, provide color-

ing and protection in one step. However,

oil finishes do not stand up to alcohol or

water the way polyurethanes do, so they

are not recommended for high-traffic,

abuse-prone applications.

But oils make nice, low-luster finishes

for furniture and other fine pieces.

Waxing can provide water resistance with

these finishes.

Stains may or may not protect the wood;

check manufacturers’ labels. An oil or

polyurethane finish can be mixed with the

stain, so the do-it-yourselfer can complete the

staining and finishing job in one step.

VarnishesVarnish is a blend of oils and resins

that coat the surface of wood and gives a

transparent, protective coating, allowing

the beauty of the wood to show through.

It can leave a gloss, semi-gloss or satin

finish, depending on its formulation.

All varnishes must be applied with a

clean brush to a clean, dust-free surface in

a dirt-free area.

Varnishes fall into four groups, divided

by their base: alkyd, polyurethane, latexor phenolic. Varnishes are typically mixed

with a tung oil or linseed oil.

Phenolic varnishes of modified pheno-

lic oils deliver the best durability, espe-

cially in exterior uses. They absorb ultra-

violet light and neutralize oxidation.

However, they also tend to yellow faster

than other varnishes.

Alkyd varnishes offer flexibility and

hardness in both interior and exterior

uses, but in exterior use they oxidize more

quickly. However, they do not yellow as

much as phenolics.

Polyurethanes are not generally recom-

mended for outdoor use. They yellow and

crack when exposed to ultraviolet light—

unless ultraviolet light absorbers are

added. There are newer exterior

polyurethanes, but manufacturers’ specifi-

cations should be checked first for recom-

mended applications. Polyurethanes are

recommended for interior use on floors

because of their excellent protection.

Phenolic or polyurethane stains are bet-

ter in interior applications for water-

resistance and hard use, but customers

may object to the plastic appearance they

produce. Alkyds offer a more natural-look-

ing gloss for furniture and indoor archi-

tectural trim and doors.

Some varnishes offer the advantages of oil-

based coatings and the cleanup convenience

of latex. The acrylic coatings take from 30 to

90 minutes to dry and do not yellow the

wood. Some acrylic-based varnishes are even

durable enough for use on floors; check man-

ufacturers’ recommendations. For more infor-

mation, see (Removing Old Paint &Varnish).

ShellacShellac provides a fast, hard-drying,

durable finish for furniture, woodwork,

hardwood floors and other wood-finishing

applications. It also functions as a sealer

and stain-killer on drywall, cured plaster

and new wood. Shellac is widely compati-

ble with other coatings, and it can be

applied over old shellac, varnish or lac-

quer finishes that are adhering well.

Most shellac is sold in a consistency rec-

ommended for most uses. This consistency

can be thinned for applications such as

wood sealer before staining by thinning 1 L

of shellac with 1.5 L of alcohol.

For applications where water spotting

may be a problem, shellacked surfaces can

be protected with paste wax or varnish.

Shellac may be applied with a brush,

foam brush or from a can. Advise cus-

tomers when brushing to flow on the

shellac from a full brush—with minimum

brushing—and not to re-brush areas, since

the alcohol-based solvent of shellac dries

quickly. Shellac offers convenient cleanup

in ammonia and warm water.

Wood Preservatives/Waterproofers

All wood preservatives must contain a

Health Canada’s Pest Management

Regulatory Agency (PMRA) registered fun-

gicide to classify as wood preservatives.

Pressure-treated wood, with lifetime war-

ranties, does not require a brush-on pre-

servative coating. Brush-on preservatives

are used for untreated wood and should

be reapplied periodically.

Wood preservatives by themselves pro-

vide no protection against moisture or

water. Water repellency must be formulat-

ed into the product. Mildewcides are also

frequently formulated into preservatives.

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Water-borne, water-repellent preserva-

tives for wood offer lower environmental

hazards and convenient water cleanup.

They provide an alternative to conven-

tional solvent-based, water-repellent

preservatives while retaining effectiveness,

rapid drying qualities and excellent

paintability. Preservatives should be reap-

plied periodically.

A water repellent helps minimize water

damage on pressure-treated and untreated

wood. Some water repellents also contain a

mildewcide to help control mold and mildew

growth. It is best to use water repellent that is

formulated for immediate application to pres-

sure-treated wood to avoid premature crack-

ing, splitting, splintering and warping.

Periodic re-applications help prevent water

damage as wood ages.

Wood toners are water repellents that

add colour to highlight wood grain.

Although toners are not to be used as if

they are stains, adding colour to a water

repellent gives wood the benefit of ultra-

violet light protection. Most toners on the

market are designed for use on pressure-

treated wood. Some repellents contain

ingredients that cause water to bead.

Specialty waterproofers include a multi-

surface formula that can be used on brick

and concrete, an aerosol version that

works well for small exterior projects, a

fence protector, a leather and fabric pro-

tector and a sport waterproofer specially

designed for use on outdoor fabric and

sporting equipment.

INTERIOR DECOR

WallcoveringsThe application of wallcovering can be

done well by do-it-yourselfers. Technical

advancements make hanging wallpaper a rela-

tively easy redecorating job. Two factors are

important when selecting wallpaper: pattern

and roll size. Wallpaper comes in border paper

(for decorative accents) and sidewall paper

(large rolls to cover whole walls). For more

information, see (Hanging Wallpaper).Wallcoverings come in either pre-pasted,

self-adhesive or dryback form. Most wallpaper

is pre-pasted, which means it has been coated

with paste by the manufacturer. Pre-pasted

wallpaper must be dipped in water for several

minutes and applied wet to make the paste

stick. There are specially formulated pastes for

pre-pasted wallpaper. These pastes eliminate

the need for the water tray used to soak the

pre-pasted paper and shorten the time needed

for application. Another feature of these pastes

is it makes the paper easier to remove.

With self-adhesive wallpaper, the user sim-

ply peels off the backing and sticks it on the

wall. Although these coverings adhere almost

immediately, there is time to adjust them

before the adhesive hardens. A “light tack”

adhesive permits numerous repositionings

during the 30 minutes after application

required for the bonding to become perma-

nent; the covering can be removed later, leav-

ing no residue.

Dryback wallpaper has no adhesion to it,

so wallpaper paste must be applied. Make

sure to follow manufacturer specifications

when selecting which wallpaper adhesive to

use with dryback wallcoverings.

Most wallcoverings come in rolls of 20-

1/2", 27", 36" or 54" widths; each contains

36 square feet of covering and will cover

approximately 30 square feet of wall or

ceiling surface. To calculate the amount of

paper needed, find the total square

footage of the area to be covered and

deduct one-half roll for every standard-

size door or window.

It’s also important to know the dye lotnumber of the wallpaper in case more is

needed later, since there may be a slight

difference in colour between dye lots.

Necessary tools include trimming knife,

plumb line and chalk, scraper, seam roller,

smoothing brush, paste brush and water

tray (for pre-pasted coverings). If the job

requires paste, check the kind of paper

before you sell the paste. Some coverings

require wheat paste, while others use liq-

uid vinyl adhesive or a vinyl paste.

As with painting, walls must be thor-

oughly cleaned before applying new cov-

ering—dirt, grease and grime washed off,

old paint scraped and washed down,

cracks filled and smoothed. It is also best

to remove old coverings first.

Depending on the kind of wall surface

involved and the kind of covering, other

preparations may be necessary. For instance,

walls should be washed with disinfectant

before applying vinyl, enameled walls should

be scrubbed with a trisodium phosphate

cleaner, and sizing or primer-sealer should be

applied to either wall or covering.

Many of these coverings are described

as “strippable” or “dry strippable,” which

means that the covering can be pulled off

years after application. “Peelable” wall-

coverings can be removed with soap and

hot water, but sometimes leave a thin

layer of paper on the wall.

Wallpaper strippers are available in liq-

uid and gel form. They contain agents

that penetrate the material and weaken

the bond, ideally allowing the wallcover-

ing to be removed in whole strips. Water-

impermeable wallcoverings—such as coat-

ed or painted wallpaper, foils, mylars and

some fabrics—should be perforated before

applying stripper. If wallpaper is particu-

larly difficult to remove, use a wallpaper

shaver, which features a razor-sharp

replaceable blade.

Window ShadesWindow shades are made of heavy paper,

treated fabric, fiberglass or vinyl. Vinyl shades

and the better-quality fabric shades are wash-

able with a damp sponge or cloth.

Some shades, particularly those made of

fabric, ensure privacy while allowing light

to filter through. Others, such as vinyl, shut

out light as well. These can also reduce

incoming hot or cold air and help cut

demand on air conditioning or heating.

On the other hand, some forms of win-

dow shading allow at least a partially

unobstructed view while still shutting out

the UV rays that damage furniture, partic-

ularly in the summer. Static-cling window

film, which is available in window-size

kits and in bulk rolls, sticks to the inner

surface of the window. It is easy both to

install—requiring only water and a

squeegee— and easy to peel off and store

for the next summer. This vinyl film

blocks up to 90 percent of UV rays.

In addition, roll-up, see-through tinted

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shades have multi-layer polyester film

with a special invisible heat-reflecting

coating on the inner layers. A standard

spring-roll shade is available for smaller

windows. Heavy, close-weave window

screening is another possibility. Kits are

available for d-i-yers.

Size is important to consider when selling

window shades. Some have steel rollers that

adjust to the size of the windows; others are

pre-cut and packaged in standard sizes up to

6'; on still others customers can cut them to

the desired width at home.

If windows are not standard widths,

shades must be cut to size. Accessories

include mounting hardware and pulls.

Faux FinishesMost decorative interior painting

involves the application of one or more

colours in broken layers over a different-

coloured background, creating a mottled

or textured effect. Most of these tech-

niques begin with a base coat of solid-

coloured semi-gloss or satin paint, fol-

lowed by a thinner coat of paint called a

“glaze.” A versatile glaze can be made

using one part interior latex paint, one

part water and four parts artist’s glaze.

Sponging is a simple technique that begins

with application of a solid base colour of

paint. After the base coat dries, a glaze of

another colour is dabbed on with a slightly

dampened natural sea sponge, creating a mot-

tled look. More than one glaze colour can be

used, but each needs to dry before moving on

to the next; the use of quick-drying latex

paint can speed up the process. Some sponges

feature random patterns that can be used to

create a design that closely resembles pat-

terned wallpaper. One line of sponges comes

with a plastic handle that can be removed as

well as a smaller trim sponge for corners.

Ragging and rag rolling can achieve effects

similar to crushed velvet, parchment, chamois

leather, watered silk or brocade. As with

sponging, ragging begins with application of a

coat of paint in a solid colour and allowing it

to dry. A crumpled cloth is then used to add

glaze in another colour. To rag-roll, a cloth is

rolled into a sausage shape of varying tight-

ness, then lightly dipped into the glaze and

rolled gently across the base coat.

Ragging and rag-rolling results vary

according to the cloth material used.

Linen, lace and burlap are common choic-

es, but almost any material will do if it is

clean and free of lint.

For a slightly different effect, each of

these techniques can be done with a neg-ative method. This involves applying a

base coat, then a glaze coat. A sponge is

then used to remove some of the glaze

before it has a chance to dry, partially

exposing the colour of the base coat.

Colour washing is a water-based decora-

tive wall painting technique that is

applied in thin, transparent layers. It

enables a wide variety of colourful tex-

tured and faux effects including leather,

suede, marble, rustic or antique finishes.

Combing involves covering a wall with reg-

ular paint, applying a glaze and then running

a metal painting comb through the glaze.

Combing tends to darken the colour of the

wall and it can be done in any direction.

Cross-hatching is when the wall is combed

once straight down and once horizontally.

Another faux finishing method includes

dragging. This entails applying vertical

sections (about 20" wide) of glaze, then

immediately dragging a wide, organic-

bristle brush through the glaze in one

long stroke from top to bottom, holding

the bristles against the surface with the

handle directly toward yourself. This

method is suitable for walls or furniture

pieces with a flat finish.

There is also marbling, in which a base

layer of white or colour is dabbed on with a

damp sponge, and then a second glaze of a

different colour is applied the same way,

causing the two colours to “marble.” The two

colours can be mottled with the sponge or

crumpled plastic. Another glaze colour can be

dragged across the surface with an artist’s

brush to add a “veined” look. Marbling is

often done with fireplace mantles.

StencilingStenciling is often done in conjunction

with a faux finish for decorative effect. It

can be done on walls, furniture, fabrics or

just about any small item in need of a cre-

ative touch. Stencils come in a variety of

styles, themes and types. Ivy, floral and

garden themes are among the most popu-

lar, along with animal designs for chil-

dren’s rooms.

Stencils can be used for small borders

on up to large, full-wall murals. Patterns

can be single or multiple layers. They can

even be applied directly to wallpaper.

Parts of the stencil can be used as spot

motifs around doorways, windows, doors

or furniture.

Self-adhesive stencils can be pulled off

the wall and reused many times. They

adhere to just about any surface.

Stencils can also be enhanced to create an

embossed texture. Acrylic stencil paint

works for exterior applications with patio

furniture, doors and fences. Rub-on stencils

work well with wall tile in the bath or

kitchen. With rubber decorator stamps,

paint is applied to the stamp and then

pressed to the wall. Some stencils allow the

user to view their work as they progress—

paint cremes are designed so the colours

will not run or drip behind the pattern.

Stenciling kits contain everything need-

ed to complete the project, such as stencil

sheets, paint cremes, cutters, stamps,

brushes and pattern books.

Also available are multi-coloured litho-

graphs that provide the look of hand-

painted stencils without having to under-

go the time-consuming use of paint.

Simply position the stencil, rub and peel

back the design. A special seam roller cre-

ates a dry transfer and rubs the design

onto the surface. It can apply a perma-

nent, washable bond to many surfaces.

PAINT SUNDRIES

BrushesBrushes are highly efficient for painting all

areas and for all types of paint. A poor brush,

however, will result in a poor finish. To guide

customers toward a professional-quality job,

salespeople need to know what makes a qual-

ity brush and how to recommend the right

brush for the job.

A quality brush has a high percentage of

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bristles with flagged (split) ends, which is

important for holding and spreading paint.

The better the flagging, the more paint a

brush will hold and the fewer the brush

marks left on the painted surface.

A quality brush also has filaments that vary

in length for smooth flow and application of

paint. Bristles on a brushes used for precision

painting, such as sash brushes, should be

“tipped.” They have pointed ends, allowing

more precise control of the paint.

Paintbrushes are available in a broad

range of sizes. Smaller brushes should be

used for smaller areas and detail work; larger

brushes have higher paint capacity for larg-

er areas. The five major components of a

paintbrush are handle, ferrule, spacer,epoxy and filament.

Wood is the traditional standard for pro-

fessional handles. Do-it-yourself quality

brushes have handles made of plastic,

which is popular because it resists water and

solvents and requires little care. The handle

is attached to the brush by nailing or crimp-

ing it to the ferrule.

Ferrules are made with either round or

square ends. Most smaller, thinner brushes

have ferrules with round ends; larger, thicker

brushes usually have ferrules with square

ends. Ferrules can be made of stainless steel,

rust-resistant steel, copper-coated steel, brass-

plated steel, nickel-plated steel or bright tin.

The filament is the most important part of

the brush that applies the paint. It can be

made of natural bristles or synthetic materi-

als. Today, because of the popularity of

water-based paints, which make China bris-

tle soften and flare, synthetic materials are

both necessary and widely used. Synthetic

filament is generally made of nylon or poly-

ester. It can be made in many cross-sectional

shapes and quality levels.

Bristle is the most popular natural fila-

ment, and the best quality comes from

mainland China. Bristle varies in length,

stiffness and thickness. Bristle has naturally

split ends, called “flags.” Flags help to hold

paint in the brush so it is released evenly

throughout the stroke instead of all at once

on the first contact point. The soft, natural

flags on bristle must be manufactured on

synthetic filament.

Bristle is not recommended for use in

water-based paints. Bristle is also not good to

use on rough surfaces, which can break the

flags and quickly wear down the brush. Bristle

brushes work well for oil-based and alkyd

paints, stains, varnishes, urethanes and shel-

lac. Their naturally soft tips leave fewer brush

marks in the coating than other brushes.

Nylon is also very durable, outwearing

China bristle five to one, so the tips last

well. Nylon cleans up easier than other fila-

ments. Because of its durability, nylon is

great to use on rough surfaces. Easy clean-

ability makes it the best material to use with

fast-drying paints like acrylics.

Because of their low price, polyester

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PAINTBRUSH CONSTRUCTION

Square Trim

Chisel Trim

PAINTBRUSH GLOSSARY

ANGULAR—bristles are tipped. One endon one side of the brush is longer, givingworking end a slanted appearance.

BUTT ENDS—ends of bristle originallyembedded in hide of hog are ends thatgo into brush setting.

CHISELLED EDGE—working end of brushis shaped to resemble end of steel chiselon both sides of brush. Most quality var-nish brushes and a number of quality wallbrushes and sash tools have chiselededges on both sides.

FERRULE—wood-, metal- or leather-bound form into which bristle is set; alsoholds handle of brush.

FLAG ENDS—working end of each bristleand tapered filament is divided into finehairs called flag ends. Hold paint in brushand help spread it evenly.

HEELED UP—heel is section of brushwhere butt ends fit into ferrule. When thisbecomes clogged with paint, it is “heeledup” and will not work efficiently.

RESILIENCY—proper proportion of stiffand soft bristles or filaments.

SQUARE EDGE—working edge of brush isstraight. Large brushes usually have squareedges with natural bend of bristle inclin-ing toward center of brush.

TAPER—tapered polyester, tapered nylonand natural bristles are thick at butt end,thinner at flag end. Tapered brushes ofeach different material are made byblending various sizes of tapered poly-ester, nylon or natural bristle.

CARE SUGGESTIONS

BRUSHES

1. Clean brush immediately after use, before paint has a chance to harden. Use proper solventfor oil-base paint; for latex-base paints, clean with warm, soap or detergent water solution. Ifbrush does not clean thoroughly, clean in paint thinner and rewash in warm detergent solution.

2. Comb wet bristles with metal comb.

3. If brush is to be stored for long periods, return to pouch supplied with brush or wrap in foilor heavy paper, with bristles smooth and flat.

4. Always store flat or suspended from a nail or hook so that bristles are straight and the brushis not resting on bristles.

5. Do not allow any brush to stand on end in either paint or water.

6. Do not soak a brush in water; it will damage either the filament or the epoxy setting andcause the ferrule to rust.

ROLLERS AND PADS

1. Clean after every use, removing excess paint by rolling or pressing on a newspaper, thenwashing in proper solvent or water.

2. Dry and wrap to store.

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brushes are popular with d-i-yers. Polyester

absorbs no moisture, so it retains its stiffness

better than any other brushing material.

Polyester also resists heat well, allowing it to

be used with all kinds of coatings in all types

of conditions. The drawbacks are it tends to

be stiffer so it does not have the proper

amount of flex, it leaves brush marks in the

coating, it cannot be precisely tipped and it

is not as durable or as easy to clean as nylon.

The most popular synthetic paintbrushes

combine the best qualities of nylon and

polyester together in one brush. Polyester is

used in shorter lengths to give the brush

resistance to heat and stiffness when used

with water-based paints; nylon is used in the

longer lengths for precise tipping and maxi-

mum durability. The newest blended brushes

combine China bristles with either nylon or

polyester. Nylon/polyester blends give out-

standing performance in all types of paint,

including latex, acrylics, alkyds and oil base.

The best filament is round and solid (not

hollow), because it lasts the longest and

cleans up easiest. The best synthetic filament

is made with a tapered shape, which gives

the brush a natural taper for precise cutting-

in. Because man-made filament does not

have natural flags, tipping processes were

developed to improve the spreading ability

of filament. There are several ways to process

bristle and filament. Because bristle has nat-

ural tipping, it is processed very minimally.

Synthetic filament, on the other hand, must

be processed to make it paint effectively.

Exploding the tips of filament “bursts”

them to make flags that carry paint and

spread it smoothly onto the surface. Bristle

has natural flags, so it is not exploded.

Another type of processing makes a sharp

point on the end of each filament; this

improves layoff and cutting-in abilities with

today’s thicker paints. Still other processes

smooth the body or length of the filament,

which may become roughened after tipping;

bristle is sometimes smoothed as well. This

improves cleanability.

There are two basic paintbrush construc-

tion types: square and chisel. Filaments in

brushes with square construction are level

across the bottom, which also makes them

level at the top of the brush. Chisel con-

struction results in a rounded shape at the

base of the brush and a triangular, chisel

shape at the top of the brush.

Brushes can also be compared by brush

trim. With square trim, the end of the brush

is trimmed flat or horizontal. With chisel

trim, the end of the brush is cut to a dome-

like shape, which increases taper and cut-

ting-in properties. For more information, see

(Making Painting Easier).

RollersThe major advantage of a paint roller is

the speed of application. The average d-i-yer

will do a quicker, smoother job with a roller.

Standard wall rollers, used in large open

areas, are 7" to 12" wide. Specialized rollers

can be any length from 2" to 18", depending

on the job to be done. Special rollers are

designed for painting on round surfaces or

into corners.

The best roller frames are made from

heavy-gauge wire, and they have end bear-

ings for smooth operation and a threaded

handle to accommodate extenders.

One critical element in any roller is the

type of fibre used in the cover. Mohair cov-

ers are especially good for applying enamel,

while lambs wool covers are excellent for

alkyd paints, but not latex. Synthetic fibres

make good all-purpose covers. In fact, about

95 percent of all roller covers are synthetic.

Roller fabrics are manufactured in one of

two ways: knitting or weaving. With a knit

fabric, the individual fibres are secured to the

backing with one pass-through. For this rea-

son, knitted fabrics are more likely to shed.

With a woven fabric, the individual fibres are

secured to the backing via two pass-throughs,

forming a “W” in the roller and locking in the

fibres, which helps eliminate shedding.

Woven fabric covers can be used with all

kinds of paint and surfaces. Knitted covers

work best with medium to highly textured

surfaces using flat finishes. You can determine

which roller covers are knitted and which are

woven by looking at the recommended types

of paints and surfaces on the roller package.

Another important factor is the length of

the nap. Smooth surfaces, such as plaster

and hardboard, require 1/4" or 3/16" nap. A

very short nap is used with enamels and

P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G

12

NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES

PAINT APPLICATORS

Paint RollerFrame

Yoke-MountedRoller

Paint Pad Tray

Paint Pad Spattershield Roller

SUGGESTING THE RIGHTPAINTBRUSH

For successful painting projects, con-sumers need the correct brush to fit thejob. Various manufacturers recommend anumber of brush sizes and styles for spe-cific painting projects.

LARGE SURFACES—ceilings, floors, chim-neys, shingles, boats and pools.Recommend a wall brush, 7/8" to 1" thickand 3" to 6" wide; 4"-wide flatting brushesare preferred. There are also lightweight4" to 6" flatting brushes that are ideal forlarge areas.

MEDIUM-SIZE AREAS—cupboards, floors,eaves, large pipes, picket fences and table-tops. Recommend a flat varnish or flatsash brush, 2", 2-1/2" or 3" wide. Suggesta 1-1/2" or 2" angular trim brush for win-dow sashes. There are two kinds of sashbrushes: flat and angular.

SMALL AND CORNER AREAS—trellises,radiators, metal furniture, ladders, gardentools and small windows. Recommend 1"or 1-1/2" sash brush or small flat varnishbrush. For small window sashes, suggest1" or 1-1/2" angular trim brush.

AUTOMOTIVE REPAINTING—recom-mend 2-1/2" or 3" soft-hair, flowing-stylebrush, such as quality nylon or ox brushor a good varnish and enamelling brush.

FURNITURE REFINISHING—recommenda 1-1/2", 2" or 2-1/2" soft hair flowing-style brush, such as a quality nylon or oxbrush, or a good varnish brush.

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gloss finishes, and longer naps are used with

latex or flat paints.

Naps of 3/8" to 1/2" are used on semi-

rough surfaces such as light stucco, sand-

blasted metal, etc. Rough surfaces such as

concrete block or heavy stucco require

longer naps of 3/4" to 1-1/4".

Determinants of quality in any roller are

the type and density of the fibres used.

When some fibres absorb water, they

become matted and lose resiliency.

Core construction is also important. In a

quality roller, the core is round, has no con-

spicuous seams, shows no indication that the

fabric will separate from the core at the ends,

and does not deform when squeezed gently.

Some cores are made of untreated cardboard,

which will soften and collapse from excess

moisture; phenolic core (treated cardboard)

and plastic will hold up better in heavy serv-

ice. Other roller cores, made of polypropylene,

are thermally fused to the fabric cover, unlike

others in which the fabric and core are glued.

The density of the fibre determines the

roller’s ability to hold paint and spread it

evenly. Inexpensive rollers that become mat-

ted or fail to spread the paint will produce a

mottled finish, regardless of the quality of

paint used. They may also leave lint on the

painted surface.

Roller shields are available to combat spat-

ter and drizzle. Some shields are incorporat-

ed into the structure of the tool.

Trim rollers work well on woodwork,

screens and other small areas that cannot be

painted with standard 9" rollers. They are

available in many different sizes and shapes,

depending on the area for which they are

designed. Mini-rollers quickly paint doors,

shelves, cupboards and other areas that would

be more time-consuming with a brush. They

often have long handles for painting hard-to-

reach spots.

An advanced type of roller is the paint

stick, which pumps paint straight from the

handle or the can to the wall, where it can be

rolled on with the attached roller. The advan-

tage is that the user does not have to deal

with drips or messy trays.

Roller TraysRoller trays are a convenient way to hold

paint when using a paint roller. Most trays

have ribbed bottoms to remove excess paint

from a roller cover after filling it. Ladder-

lock legs per-

mit them to

snap onto a

stepladder. A

good quality

tray can last

indefinitely if

cleaned after each use. Plastic tray liners are

also available. One new tray features a lid

that closes and seals paint, roller or brush

inside the tray. This eliminates the need to

clean the painting equipment after each use.

It also saves paint.For more information, see

(Making Painting Easier).

Extension PolesExtension poles or handles can

make roller painting both faster and

easier for hard-to-reach areas. They

generally range from 1' to 16' in

length. Some poles are adjustable, or

telescoping, to handle a multitude

of painting situations.

They also enable the user to stand

on the floor instead of a ladder when

painting high walls or ceilings.

Paint PadsLike a roller, a paint pad applies paint

quickly—but it also offers several distinct

advantages of its own. Rollers, because of

their circular motion, tend to spatter paint,

especially if rolled too fast. However, pad

applicators lie flat on the surface, allowing

the user to avoid spattering. In addition,

unlike a roller, a pad can be used in corners.

A second advantage is that a pad can be

used in corners. If a ceiling and wall are being

painted separate colours, a roller cannot be

used at the point where the two surfaces meet,

because the roller will mark the other surface.

Most pads are made of mohair or foam and

can apply either latex or oil-based paints.

Paint pads also have guide wheels or trim tabs

that guarantee a straight line at the point of

intersection. This same

device allows for painting

around trim and moulding

without marring the second

surface. Paint pads are also

an excellent way to apply

waterproofing coating to a

deck or fence. Attached to a

long handle, they eliminate

bending and stooping and can be washed

and re-used.

Manufacturers also offer pad trays for

quicker application. Some pad trays are even

equipped with a revolving wheel to ensure—

P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G

13

NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES

SUGGESTING THE RIGHT ROLLER COVER

The most important factor in selecting apaint roller cover is the surface that is goingto be painted.

SMOOTH SURFACES—short nap (1/4" to3/16") cover. Longer nap can leave a pro-nounced “orange peel” effect. Use onsmooth plaster, wallboard and smoothwood.

MEDIUM SURFACES—(slightly rough)medium nap (3/8" to 1/2"); longer fibrespush the paint into rough surfaces with-out causing orange peel. Use on sand fin-ish plaster, texture plaster, acoustical tile,poured concrete, rough wood and shakes.

ROUGH SURFACES—long nap (3/4’ to 1-1/4"); longer fibres push paint into thedeep valleys of rough surfaces. Use onconcrete block, stucco, brick, Spanishplaster, cinder block, corrugated metaland asphalt or wood shingles.

GENERAL RULE

The rule for selling and using almost allroller covers: “The smoother the surface,the shorter the nap; the rougher the sur-face, the longer the nap.”

SPECIAL SITUATIONS:

• The application of catalyzed (two-part)fiberglass or epoxy coatings. These coat-ings have strong solvents that destroy nor-mal covers. Special high-solvent covers areavailable for these coatings.

• The application of paint to extremelyrough surfaces occasionally requires anextra-long nap roller cover (1-1/4" or 1-1/2").

• The application of texture paint to asmooth surface requires a special cover topull or peak the paint on the surface forthe desired texture. This is often referredto as a stipple roller cover.

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P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G

14

NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES

and speed up—the proper loading of the pad.

When a pad is wiped on the revolving wheel,

the proper amount of paint is picked up on

the surface of the pad.

Foam BrushesFoam brushes have handles like regular

brushes, but a foam pad replaces the bristles.

Foam brushes are inexpensive so they are

often considered disposable; however, most

are durable enough to be cleaned and reused.

Foam brushes are ideal for clear finishes.

Most brands are not recommended for use

with lacquer or shellac, which have chemi-

cal formulas that attack the foam.

Texture Paint ApplicatorsSeveral products are designed specifically

for the application of texture paints. Among

them are special

stippling roller

covers, some of

which are foam

with various patterns etched into the sur-

face. Others have deep, looped material.

Special texture painting rollers have large

diameters to accommodate the heavier con-

sistency of texture paints. Texture edgers are

also available to provide texture where

rollers cannot reach.

Paint SprayersIn some cases, spray painting is the most

efficient method. For instance, when the

user is painting large areas with the same

color or painting intricate surfaces such as

furniture or grillwork, other tools often will

not reach all surfaces. However, it requires

some practice to handle the equipment and

get an even paint covering.

Airless sprayers offer the easiest way to

spray paint. Airless sprayers eject paint at

high pressure. They must be handled care-

fully to avoid possible injury. An electric air-

less paint system consists of a paint contain-

er, high-pressure pump, motor, handle and

housing and pressure regulator. Extension

nozzles, longer suction tubes, extra nozzles

and viscosity measuring cups are optional

accessories. Important points to remember

in using an airless sprayer, as with other

types of sprayers, are proper paint consisten-

cy, pressure and tip selection.

Choice of spraying tip depends on paint

consistency, but generally the thinner the

paint, the smaller the tip needed.

Paint consistency also governs pump pres-

sure. Thinner materials such as stains, lac-

quers, enamels and sealers require less pres-

sure than heavier materials such as house

and wall paint.

Paints that have been formulated for

brush or roller application may be too thick

for spraying. They should be tested first and

thinned if necessary.

Other types of spraying equipment present

operational differences. For instance, a suc-

tion gun has a vent hole in the cover of the

paint cap. A stream of compressed air creates

a vacuum, allowing atmospheric pressure to

force material from the container to the

sprayhead. These guns usually are limited to

quart-size containers or smaller. They are used

where many color changes are necessary.

In a pressure-fed system, the material is

force-fed to the gun when large amounts of

the same colour are being used, when mate-

rials are too heavy to be siphoned from a

cap or container by suction, or when fast

application is required.

Non-bleeder sprayers cannot release air

until the trigger is pulled. These are used

when air is supplied from a tank or from a

compressor that has pressure control. On the

other hand, a bleeder gun releases air at all

times, thus preventing the pressure from

building until it pops the safety valve.

Also available is the rotary-disc airless

paint sprayer. An auger pump pulls paint

from a container mounted under the electri-

cally powered spraying head. It then sends

the paint into a high-speed spinning disc.

Centrifugal force from the spinning disc

causes the paint to flow through a variable

gate opening. The gate control regulates the

size of paint swath. The gate control also

eliminates the need for nozzles and reduces

the hazards of high-pressure injection.

High-volume, low-pressure paint sprayers

reduce the amount of overspray typically

caused by airless sprayers and air-powered

spray guns. Not only does more paint reach

the surface, but also painters save time and

money on paint and drop cloths.

Some paint sprayers can be adapted to

other uses—with the right accessories. An air

gun attachment allows the user to blow dust

off of surfaces before painting. An adjustable

HOW TO HANDLE PAINT COMPLAINTS

CHALKING—House paint wears off by this process. Slight chalking is desirable because it keepsthe surface clean and results in a gradual reduction in the thickness of the coating. Beforerecoating, all chalk should be removed by scrubbing the surface with water or wire brushing.

CHECKING AND CRACKING—Slight checking is not a serious defect, but a warning signal torepaint. Cause of this trouble is not allowing sufficient drying time between coats, and applyinga hard-drying finish coat over a soft undercoat. In contraction and expansion of the wood, theelastic undercoat gives, but the brittle topcoat cannot. To prevent checking, wire brush the sur-face before repainting. Allow first coat to dry thoroughly before applying finishing coats.

ALLIGATORING—Alligatoring (similar to checking) is more pronounced and will form a pat-tern like an alligator’s skin. It is usually due to applying a relatively hard drying coat of paintor varnish over a soft undercoat. In cases of severe alligatoring, the entire coat should beremoved with a blow torch, paint remover or scraper. Mild cases should be thoroughly sand-papered, then primed.

WRINKLING—Wrinkling is caused by applying a coat that is too thick. Painting at low tempera-tures may also cause this condition. Avoid wrinkling by brushing all coats out thoroughly andpainting in weather 55° or above. Before repainting, remove wrinkled portion by sanding orusing paint remover. A new coat of primer should follow.

BLISTERING—Blistering occurs when water is present within rather than upon the surface. Heatfrom the sun draws moisture to the surface and expands paint film into a blister. The only reme-dy is to locate the cause of the moisture within the house.

MILDEWING—Mildew is caused by moisture under the paint and appears as black, gray, greenor yellow spots on the painted surface. Scrub affected area with a mixture of household deter-gent, bleach and water, and rinse. When dry, paint with a mildew-resistant paint. If possible, findand remove the source of moisture.

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pressure-relief valve regulates maximum air

pressure on air guns. In addition, an inflater

attachment converts the sprayer into a

pump to inflate toys, tires, etc.

Tack ClothsA clean, well-prepared surface is essential

for good paint results. The best way to clean a

surface before painting or repainting is to use

a tack cloth. A tack cloth is a varnish-impreg-

nated, open-mesh cloth. It picks up and holds

loose dirt, sand and other foreign particles

adhering to wood, metal, plaster and other

surfaces. Caution customers to use a tack cloth

on a surface immediately before applying each

coat and between sandings. Although the sur-

face is cleaned with a chemical, lint and dust

can accumulate rapidly, leaving a less-than-

perfect finish if not removed.

Drop ClothsDrop cloths can be made of a variety of

materials, but usually they are plastic.

Heavy-duty, professional-quality cloths are

made of canvas. Triple-coated, butyl-backed

drop cloths offer the best protection against

paint spills, while felt-backed and laminate-

backed drop cloths are other options.

The d-i-y painter should use drop cloths

to protect furniture, fixtures and floors

against common paint splatters and spills.

SandpaperSandpaper is often needed to complete

preparation of a surface that is to be painted.

Customers should know that sanding will be

necessary to paint wood or glossy surfaces.

Five general types of sandpaper are com-

mon among d-i-yers: garnet, emery, alu-

minum oxide, silicone carbide and alumina

zirconia. Of these, the first two are natural

minerals or abrasives; the others are synthet-

ic materials that are tougher and longer

wearing than the natural abrasives.

Each of these types may be manufactured

on a variety of backings, including paper,

cloth and fibre.

Garnet is a reddish-brown natural abra-

sive. By special heat treatment, a tougher,

sturdier grain is produced. Garnet is used

almost exclusively in the woodworking field;

it is not suitable for use on metal.

Emery is a black natural abrasive that can

polish metal surfaces. Emery is typically used

in conjunction with an oil lubricant.

Aluminum oxide is the most common gen-

eral abrasive. It is a synthetic brown that is

hard and long-wearing. It is used on wood,

metal or painted surfaces and is well suited to

finishing high-tensile materials such as steels

and bronzes, as well as some hardwoods. See

packaging or manufacturers’ literature for

advisability of use on hardwood.

Silicone carbide is hard and sharp—effec-

tive in sanding low-tensile materials such as

cast iron, aluminum, copper or plastic. It is

also useful between coats of finish.

Alumina zirconia is harder than silicon

carbide and tougher than aluminum oxide.

It should be used for grinding and shaping

metal and wood—not for polishing.

Sandpapers conform to the same numeri-

cal system for grading coarseness. The small-

er the number, the coarser the grit.

Coarseness generally runs from 12 (extra

coarse) to 1500 (ultra-fine). Grit finer than

600 is usually measured on the European

FEPA scale, and identified with a “P” imme-

diately before the number.

Micron coating abrasive has emerged as a

system of measuring very fine abrasive grit.

For example, 10 micron is equivalent to

P1500. These products are usually intended

for applications in opthalmic and automo-

tive refinishing.

Sandpaper for wet sanding has a flexible

waterproof backing. Usually coated with sili-

con carbide, it comes in several grits (from

60 to P1200) and is used for fine finishing

and polishing.

Sandpaper comes in two styles: open coat(OC) and closed coat. “Coat” refers to how

densely the grain is adhered to the surface.

“Closed coat” means 100 percent of the sur-

face is covered with grain.

Open-coat sandpaper has greater spacing

between the grains, which prevents it from

clogging up as quickly with sanding residue.

Closed-coat sandpaper, however, fills more

rapidly with the substance being sanded and

must be discarded sooner. Consumers for

whom clogging is an issue should be direct-

ed to paper with a special anti-static surface

treatment, which resists such clogging.

Special sandpaper is also available for dry-

wall and plaster sanding. This abrasive

screen cloth is durable and more resistant to

fill from drywall compound and plaster.

The back of each sandpaper sheet con-

tains important labeling information,

including product and lot number, abrasive

type, grit size, whether it is open or closed

coat and backing. The backing weight is

rated by letter. “A” is the thinnest weight,

while “C” and “D” are the best options for

hand sanding of wood. “X” is effective for

heavy-duty sanding.

Keep in mind sanding-related acces-

sories, such as rubber or wood-sanding

blocks, which can be used to produce

more evenhanded sanding. Variations of

the traditional sanding block used with

sandpaper include sanding blocks and

sanding sponges coated with or made of

an abrasive agent. Major advantages for

these include the fact they tend to last

longer than sandpaper and they can take

the form of the item being sanded.

Steel WoolSteel wool is a popular accessory item. It

should be used before painting on any

glossy surface.

Overall, its uses include removing grime

and sludge prior to refinishing, preparing new

surfaces, removing old coating to raw wood,

and for application in between coats of enam-

el, paint, shellac or varnish. It removes paint

from glass, furniture, tile and other surfaces.

Steel wool comes in grades ranging from

fine to coarse.

More water-based strippers and finishes

have led to a man-made synthetic steel wool

product. This product will not cause spot-

ting in wood, as standard steel wool can

when used with water-based finishes.

Among boat owners, bronze wool is a

popular alternative to steel wool.

■ CHEMICALSBrush and Roller Cleaners

Commercially prepared brush and roller

cleaners substantially reduce cleaning—and

help applicators last for years. Before these

preparations are used, excess paint should be

brushed or rolled from the tools. If directions

P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G

15

NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES

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are followed properly, cleaning is not a chore.

Commercially prepared, solvent-based

brush cleaners should not be used to clean

wet or fresh latex or acrylic paints from

brushes or rollers. Use soap and warm water,

or follow the paint manufacturers’ directions

for cleaning fresh latex from brushes. When

brushes have been rinsed thoroughly, they

are ready for reuse or storage. If paint has

dried or hardened in the heel of the brush, a

commercial cleaner should be used. To

remove dried paint, soak the applicator in

cleaner several hours or overnight. Then

comb the excess paint from the bristles,

rinse the brush with warm water and wrap it

in newspaper to dry.

Most brush and roller cleaners will not

harm either natural or nylon bristle brushes,

but they can harm synthetic bristles.

Synthetic brushes should be cleaned in accor-

dance with the manufacturers’ instructions.

If commercial brush and roller cleaners

are not used, tools must be washed thor-

oughly with turpentine or the appropriate

solvent (alcohol for shellac, lacquer solvents

for lacquer) until clean. When thoroughly

cleaned, they can be washed with soap and

water and set aside for future use.

Brushes that are used to apply more than

one coat of the same colour do not have to

be cleaned between coat applications. Plastic

can be secured around the bristles to keep the

paint moist when the brush is not in use.

Paint spinners and brush combs can be

used to clean rollers and brushes.

ThinnersMost thinners include mineral spirits, tur-

pentine, alcohol and lacquer thinner.

Thinning often changes paint color slightly.

Therefore, all paint should be thinned at the

same time to ensure that colours do not

change in the middle of a job.

Mineral spirits are a petroleum distillate

solvent frequently used in the manufactur-

ing and thinning of oil-based paints.

Odorless mineral spirits have been refined to

remove some odorous components.

Turpentine has greater solvency than min-

eral spirits, causing it to work more quickly.

It also has a stronger odor and contains a

small amount of resin.

Alcohol is available in denatured, wood or

methanol form. Wood and methanol alco-

hols are extremely toxic and should not be

recommended for do-it-yourselfers.

Denatured alcohol, a safer substance, is used

for thinning and for cleaning shellac and

pigmented shellac primer. Alcohol is excel-

lent for removing grease and oil spots, fin-

gerprints and other smudges.

Lacquer thinner is available in many

grades and degrees of solvency and in sever-

al speeds of evaporation. Lacquer thinner is

an excellent cleaner for brushes used in any

paint product except shellacs. Since it leaves

no residue, lacquer thinner does not require

cleaned brushes to be washed with soap and

water. However, it is an extremely flammable

solvent that should be used with caution.

Paint and Varnish RemoversChemical paint and varnish removers are

formulated to dissolve or soften old finishes

for easy removal. Some are a gel or semi-paste

formula and others are available in spray-on

or aerosol form. Methylene chloride is the pri-

mary solvent in traditional paint strippers, but

health concerns have been raised regarding

prolonged exposure to “meth,” which has led

to the development of “safe” non-meth strip-

pers. Methylene Chloride is clear, colourless

and has a mildly sweet odour. Direct contact

with the chemical can cause skin irritation.

When using strippers, advise customers to

read the safety and usage instructions on the

label, wear chemical-resistant gloves and pro-

tective clothing, ventilate the room if using

indoors and avoid exposure to the skin and

eyes. Drinking alcoholic beverages before, dur-

ing or after use of any solvents may cause

undesirable effects. Also, smoking or use of

open flames while using paint removers, even

if nonflammable, should not be permitted.

Nonflammable removers contain large quanti-

ties of chlorinated solvents, which form toxic

gases when the fumes come into contact with

flame or hot surfaces.

While non-meth strippers are safer to

use, they take longer to act and are more

expensive than their meth counterparts.

However, they stay active longer, which

means they can remove more paint layers

in a single application.

Products are designed specifically to

remove shellac, varnish and lacquer, paint or

stain. Some strippers change color to signal

completion of the process, and some

removers are formulated so that no after

P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G

16

NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES

SOLVENT SAFETY TIPS

Since paint stripping and refinishing sol-vents must be strong chemicals to workproperly, they also require certain precau-tions before, during and after their use.Here are some tips.

• Keep away from sparks, heat and openflames.

• Disconnect power to electrical outlets,switches and fixtures by unscrewing thefuse or tripping the circuit breaker.

• Turn off all pilot lights and other flames,even if they are in other rooms or utilityclosets.

• Disconnect, unplug or turn off clothesdryers, furnaces and water heaters. Beespecially careful to disconnect electricigniters in gas systems that do not havepilot lights.

• Unplug or disconnect and do not oper-ate electric switches or motors (refrigera-tors, dishwashers, vacuum cleaners, fur-nace blowers, electric or gas appliances,stoves or heaters).

• Keep all metal objects (scrapers, steelwool pads) from contacting any electricaloutlet, fixture or switch.

• Do not use, relight or reconnect any ofthe above items until all smell of solventsis gone.

• Do not smoke, use matches or lighters—and do not allow others to do so—whensolvents are being used.

• Most solvent vapors are heavier than airand tend to collect in low spots. Preventvapor build-up by providing fresh air ven-tilation (cross-ventilation) at floor levelduring and after use of solvents. Open allwindows and doors to create ventilationand disperse fumes. (Fans are not recom-mended because unless specially con-structed, they can cause sparks.) Keepvapors out of ventilation systems (furnaceand air conditioning ductwork and fans).

• Keep products out of the reach ofchildren.

• Close container after each use.

• Do not transfer products to unlabeledcontainers.

• If paint is swallowed, follow the first aidinstructions on the label and contact adoctor or poison control center.

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wash or neutralizing is required. Be familiar

with manufacturers’ products and have their

literature available. If after wash is necessary,

neither alcohol nor lacquer thinner should

be used; the wax used in paint removers is

not soluble in those solvents.

Remind consumers that all strippers

should be brushed on in one direction to

make sure the chemical seals properly. In

addition, keep in mind that water-wash may

raise the grain of wood; it may darken or

even blacken some woods, such as oak.

Do your customer and your store a favor

by recommending the purchase of other

materials needed to complete the project.

Related items here include natural bristle

paint brushes, solvent-resistant gloves, safety

goggles, putty knives, drop cloths, stiff

brushes and rags.

For exterior uses, a chemical paint and

varnish stripper can be applied to an old

painted or stained surface—via brush,

sprayer or roller—and then sprayed off

along with the old finish. Most strippers are

organic solvents or caustic salts available in

ready-to-use liquid form. Advise users to

avoid contact with skin and eyes, wear pro-

tective clothing and equipment, and use

care in handling. For more information, see

(Removing Old Paint & Varnish).

Refinishing SystemsRefinishing systems are designed to elimi-

nate the stripping, scraping and sanding

usually identified with refinishing furniture

and removing old varnish, lacquer or shel-

lac. Products can be merchandised individu-

ally or in kits.

Most kits’ refinishing solution is applied

with fine steel wool to small areas at a time.

The cleaned, original finish is then lightly

buffed with dry steel wool to open the wood

pores. A new finish can then be applied with

a clean cloth—though homeowners should

first wipe away any excess finishing solution

with a dry cloth. Manufacturers offer several

finishes that preserve and seal the wood,

with the option of a high-gloss finish or a

more natural finish.

Besides refinishers that remove old fur-

niture finish and new finish solutions, fur-

niture cleaners for cleaning wax buildup

are available.

Organic, water-based strippers are an

alternative to traditional chemical strip-

pers. Water-based strippers soften varnish

and can be left on overnight without dam-

aging the wood. They can be applied over

the whole project at once with a thick

(1/8" minimum) coat.

Liquid Cleaners and DeglossersLiquid cleaners and deglossers prepare sur-

faces before painting and assist paint and

varnish in bonding to old finishes. These

products are available in water- or solvent-

based formulations. Concrete cleaner is

specifically designed to clean and degrease

concrete and masonry surfaces and to pre-

pare concrete basement floors to be painted.

Rust Removers and ConvertersRust remover cuts through and dissolves

rust from metal surfaces. In jellied form, it

clings well to vertical surfaces. When users

brush it on, the rust dissolves quickly. These

products are extremely harsh on the skin;

protective gloves should be worn.

Rust converters react chemically to form a

metal shield that can be painted. By convert-

ing the rust to iron tannate, the converter sta-

bilizes the rusting process. The solution also

halts under-film corrosion—another plus,

since scraping, brushing and sandblasting

often do not remove rust that lies in cavities.

The solution is applied with a stiff brush or

aerosol spray and allowed to dry for 12 to 24

hours, depending on humidity (check manu-

facturer labeling and literature). Mill scale,

rust chips, loose rust, blisters, deteriorated

paints, grease and the like should be removed

before applying the solution.

DegreasersDegreasers are available in solid, liquid and

aerosol form. They are used to remove dirt,

oil and grease from basement and garage

floors, driveways, patios and sidewalks.

Many are made for concrete only and

should not be used on blacktop surfaces.

Contents are spread evenly over the dirty

surface. Water is then applied. Then the sur-

face is scrubbed with a broom.

Contents should be left to penetrate the

surface for best results. Finally, the surface

should be hosed down with water.

Wallpaper RemoversWallpaper can be removed with liquid

spray-on solutions, steamers, special gel for-

mulations or other tools. Product develop-

ments over the past decade have made a dif-

ficult task more manageable.

Traditional wallpaper removers wet the

paper and paste and then required a lot of

scraping. Wallcovering scrapers and shavers

feature an angled blade or head to prevent

wall gouging. Wallcovering scoring tools per-

forate waterproof wallcoverings so the

remover solution can penetrate the paste.

Now available is a wallpaper stripper based

on enzyme action that breaks down the paste,

destroying its adhesive strength. It is also

available in a water-based gel formulation that

can be applied with a brush or roller.

Another type of wallpaper removal system

is a special water-absorbent fabric that enables

water to work in a wicking action through the

wallpaper, which softens and weakens wallpa-

per adhesive and makes removal easy. The fab-

ric sheets can be reused many times.

Exterior Wood TreatmentsDeck cleaners and restorers are designed to

clean and restore weathered wood surfaces

such as decks and siding by removing dirt,

mildew, algae and fungus stain. They are gen-

erally made of oxygen bleaches, chlorine

bleaches or oxalic acid-based formulas. Warn

customers to be cautious about protecting skin

and eyes while using these products. Some

contain harsh chemicals like sodium hydrox-

ide which is a corrosive agent.

Oxygen-type bleaches are effective at

removing mildew stains, dirt and weathered

gray residues.

Chlorine bleaches combat mildew but are

not effective at removing dirt or surface

deposits. In addition, if the chemical is not

rinsed properly, the chlorine salt can cause

the wood to gray prematurely.

Oxalic acid is not effective against mildew,

but it is the best choice for redwood or cedar

because it renders tannin and iron stains col-

orless. Tannins are natural resins contained

in cedar and redwood that react with iron in

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fasteners or nails to cause blue-black stains.

Products that are formulated with thick-

eners will adhere better to vertical surfaces

such as siding and deck rails.

Wood Care ProductsLemon oil can be used to replenish fine

wood with its natural oils while protecting

the finish. It is best to use products that con-

tain no beeswax or silicones that could cause

a buildup or darken the wood.

Exterior wood filler, which is used for

exterior repairs, is cured to prevent fading

from ultraviolet light. Latex wood filler fillsgouges, holes and other imperfections. It

features little odour, can be stained and

cleans up easily with water. Solvent-basedwood filler looks like wood and can be sand-

ed, cut, drilled, stained, varnished and paint-

ed.

Water putty wood patch fills cracks and

holes in woodwork and sets loose joints. It

can be cut, sanded, chiseled and stained and

dries quick and hard.

Wood stain pens will hide minor scratch-

es, nicks and chips on furniture and woods.

Wood and swell lock swells and tightens

loose chair rungs, dowels and mortise joints.

Coloured putty comes in a range of popu-

lar wood shades to fill countersunk nail

holes and cracks on woodwork that has

already been stained. Oil-based putty in jars

stays soft and cures over a long time; water-

based putty in squeeze tubes sets hard and is

compatible with waterborne finishes.

Putty pencils are heavily pigmented wax

sticks that resemble crayons. They fill and

colour nail holes, joints, cracks and scratches

to match the shade of surrounding wood-

work. They are used often to avoid a major

refinishing project by hiding minor damage.

Because they are wax-based, putty pencils

should only be used on new woodwork after

the final coat of finish has been applied and

hardened.

Wood hardeners are liquid consolidants

that seep deep into soft, deteriorated wood

fibers, then harden to restore strength and

some structural integrity. Depending on the

strength required, the formula can be water-

based, solvent-based or two-part epoxy.

Wood rebuilders are heavy-duty repair

compounds that replace rotted or broken

woodwork. They are usually two-part

resin/hardener polyester or epoxy systems,

and offer the best strength for holding nails

and resetting screws.

HOUSEHOLD ADHESIVES

As much as with any product category,

retailers should be familiar with manufac-

turers’ guidelines on household adhesives.

The category can be confusing because of

the variety and the frequent overlap of

uses. Read labels and encourage your cus-

tomers to do the same.

Customers should be advised to use as

much adhesive as necessary. For most

products, the adhesive should squeeze out

from between the joints.

Safety is also a major factor. Manufacturers

have developed non-flammable adhesives

that will do some of the same jobs as

older formulations; for instance, latex-

based and chlorinated solvent-based adhe-

sives have taken the place of some petro-

leum-based products.

White glue is a non-waterproof adhesive

used mostly for interior woodworking jobs

where a waterproof joint is not required.

Usually packaged in plastic squeeze bottles,

these inexpensive, milky-white glues dry clear

and are fast setting. Ready for use from the

bottle, they are widely used for bonding

paper, fabric, cardboard, cork and leather, as

well as wood. They can withstand a moderate

amount of strain.

Woodworkers’ glue has a faster grab than

white glue. It is usually tinted an off-white

or yellow. Woodworkers’ glue is used in

applications where better water resistance,

heat resistance and ease of sanding are

desired. Aliphatic wood glue, a general-pur-

pose adhesive, is also popular among people

who are doing woodwork, including those

building or repairing furniture.

Instant-setting glues, technically known as

cyanoacrylates, create a strong, instant bond

with a small amount of glue. Regular cyano-

acrylates will bond almost all non-porous

materials such as ceramic, some plastics, rub-

ber, metal or synthetics. These instant-setting

glues are in a gel form.

Most manufacturers recommend that con-

sumers do not use cyanoacrylates on glass,

although these glues will perform acceptably

on Teflon™ and polyethylene surfaces. They

also should not be used to fill gaps.

Some instant-setting glue can be used

on porous materials such as wood, leather

or paper; the exception is any foam that

cannot be bonded with cyanoacrylates.

Instant-setting glues quickly form a strong

bond. These glues should be handled care-

fully. Keep glue off hands.

Epoxy glues are one of the strongest

adhesives known. They are designed pri-

marily for the bonding of non-porous sur-

faces but can be used effectively on wood.

Available in clear, white or metallic finish,

all true epoxies come in two parts: a resin and

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VOC REGULATIONS CAUSING A STIR

Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) found in paints, stains and coatings escape into the air andcontribute to pollution by reacting with vehicle emissions, coal burning and other sources thatconsume nitrogen, including trees.

Most paints and finishes contain solvents that contain VOCs. VOCs react with sunlight to formozone in the lower atmosphere, which is known to cause lung damage and eye irritation, as wellas contribute to air pollution.

Paint manufacturers have reworked (or offered new) paint formulations that are less hazardousto the environment. Retailers should arm themselves with knowledge to answer questions aboutthe differences between the reformulated products and the standard items they were selling.For example, some reformulated oil-based products require additional applications and takelonger to dry.

Familiarize yourself and your staff with the regulations in your area and the products you carry.Request and read manufacturers’ literature and product labels. Does the “environmentally safe”product work the same way as the old paint carried? Know the answers for your customers.

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a hardener (or “catalyst”). These must be

mixed together before the adhesive is used.

Once mixed, the material will set permanent-

ly in a specified length of time—most will

permanently bond, even under water. The

bond will withstand practically all common

solvents when curing is complete.

Epoxies are excellent for sealing gaps and

will withstand vibration and shock; they

can be used on pipes, radiators, wood,

metal, ceramic tile, china, marble, glass and

masonry. Clean-up can be difficult.

Urethane adhesive is a one-part adhesive

offering the strength of an epoxy without

mixing. It requires clamping and 24 hours

to cure fully, but it does bond most materi-

als. Its strong bond will endure stress such

as that required to mend furniture, tool

handles and children’s toys. Polyurethane is

good for a bond between either similar or

dissimilar surfaces.

Contact cement can be used on many

surfaces, but the joints it makes may

come apart under a heavy load. Good to

bond laminates to countertops and cabi-

nets, or to glue plastic foam, hardboard or

metal to wood.

Instant adhesion makes contact cement

difficult to use. It bonds immediately with-

out clamping and resists water, temperature

extremes and fungi. Contact cement is most

effective when one or both surfaces are

porous or semi-porous. Contact cement

contains solvents that should be allowed to

flash off before assembly. Non-flammable

versions are available.

Clear cement works best on porous mate-

rials. With non-porous materials, clear

cement makes a good bond when applied

only around the edges. Clear cements are

familiar to youngsters as model airplane

glue. It is clear and colourless, it resists

water and is suitable for use on flexible as

well as rigid joints. These adhesives often

contain solvents such as toluene that can be

abused by children (sniffing).

Silicone rubber is for strong, flexible

joints on wood, dissimilar surfaces such as

metal, rubber, glass, ceramics, brick, wood

and polystyrene foam.

Plastic resin glue is powdered urea

formaldehyde glue. When mixed with water,

it makes highly water-resistant bonds.

Frequently used for furniture repair, it is

applied to clean, close-fitting surfaces and

cured under pressure for at least 10 hours at

20° C. The finished glue is non-toxic and

impervious to most materials.

Waterproof glue (also called resorcinolglue) is a two-component adhesive of liq-

uid resin and powdered catalyst. Used in

wood joints, it cures under pressure in 10

hours at 20° C.

Casein glue is powdered casein that

mixes with water. It is less expensive than

plastic resin and waterproof glue and has

good filling qualities for heavy wood glu-

ing. It sets in three hours at 20° C.

Acrylic adhesives are non-flammable,

waterproof, two-part adhesives that hold

well under stress. Applied without mixing,

acrylic adhesives bond most surfaces

including oily or porous surfaces. Bond

forms in 30 to 60 seconds, with perma-

nent strength reached in 45 minutes. It is

not recommended for use on polyethyl-

ene or polypropylene.

Hot-melt adhesives come in several types,

including clear, hot-melt glue sticks for gener-

al-purpose use, white caulk sticks and sticks

formulated for wood repair. Hot-melt glue

sticks are used only in hot-melt glue guns.

Mastic is a general term for any thick

adhesive. Used in heavy-duty bonding

and construction, mastics are usually

applied with a caulking gun or trowel.

Heavy-duty adhesive is solid adhesive

for flat surfaces indoors and outdoors. The

adhesive permanently attaches rigid plas-

tics, ceramic, metal, finished woods and

glass. It has an industrial-strength bond

and resists temperature, water, oil, gas,

detergents and vibrations.

REPAIR/PATCHINGTOOLS & MATERIALS

Wall Scrapers and Joint KnivesWall scrapers are used to scrape old wall-

paper off walls and peeling paint from work

surfaces, to tape joints and to patch plaster.

Most do-it-yourselfers prefer 3", 4", 5" and

6" sizes. Professionals generally use 10” and

12" taping knives.

Quality wall scrapers have flexible, high-car-

bon steel blades that are hardened, tempered

and individually ground. Another mark of

quality is a design that allows for a single

piece of steel, which runs from the tip of the

blade to the end of the handle. Handles are

made of shatterproof plastic or wood.

Drywall joint knives come in larger sizes,

ranging from 5" to 16". The most popular

size is 6". Signs of quality are similar to those

of wall scrapers.

Less expensive wall scrapers or joint knives

are manufactured from high-carbon steel,

with blades securely fastened into a seamless,

shatterproof handle, frequently wood.

A corner tool is used to apply tape and

joint compounds when a perfect corner job

is desired. It is available in 3" or 4" sizes.

The process of installing drywall and gyp-

sum wallboard is relatively simple, but com-

pleting the project requires skill and drywall

finishing tools.

To achieve a smooth-looking surface, the

taping process covers the joints between the

wallboard panels. Joint cement is then

applied in thin layers and sanded to create

an even surface.

A corner roughing knife, a corner finish-

ing knife, a broad knife (usually about 10"

wide) and a utility knife are the basic tools

used in this project. The corner knife

embeds the tape on both sides of a corner. A

point on the knife pushes the tape into the

corner joint.

The corner finishing knife feathers the

joint compound over the edges of the tape

and leaves a smooth, sharp corner. The

broad knife feathers and smoothes joint

compound over flat joints. The utility knife

is used to smooth spackling compound over

nail holes, cracks and other rough areas.

Sponge rollers are also available for both

corners and flat areas to pick up and roll out

joint compound.

Ergonomics (the combination of comfort

and shape with the general effectiveness of

the intended application of the product) has

become an increasingly popular feature in

various hand tools. Retailers can expect such

issues of hand fit and versatility to be an

important selling point for scrapers and

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knives as well.

Paint and Varnish ScrapersA paint and varnish scraper (also called a

“wood scraper”) removes old finishes and

smoothes the surface with its sharp cutting

blade. When using chemical removers, con-

sumers should know to use a chemical-resist-

ant scraper. Plastic, chemical-resistant scrapers

tend to be gentler on wood than metal scrap-

ers.

Sizes range from the 1" blade—primarily

used for small, hard-to-reach areas—to a

5" blade. Most blades are made from tem-

pered, high-carbon steel and can be sharp-

ened with a file.

Razor-blade scrapers are used to scrape

excess paint off windows. They hold either

single- or double-edge razor blades. The

most popular type has a retractable blade

that slides in or out of the handle.

Putty KnivesPutty knives range from

1" to 2-1/2". Generally, the

greatest demand is for 1-1/4"

and 1-1/2".

The finest quality putty

knife blades are made

from mirror-finished,

high-carbon steel and are

hardened, tempered and

individually ground.

The way the blade is

attached to the handle is a

means of determining quali-

ty. Top-quality models have blades running

from the tip of the blade through to the end

of the handle.

Putty knives are used for scraping paint,

chipping out old putty, scraping off accu-

mulated grease and scraping old finishes

off furniture.

Multi-purpose ToolsManufacturers have developed several

multi-purpose tools. One trim guard not only

keeps paint off adjoining surfaces, it can also

be used to smooth out wallcoverings during

application. Another multi-purpose tool that

resembles a putty knife can be used as a putty

knife, scraper, can and bottle opener, hammer,

nail and tack puller as well as a utility knife.

Electric Paint RemoversAn electric paint remover, which contains

a heating element similar to an electric

appliance, is placed on the coated surface

and pulled along slowly. Users should follow

along with a scraper to remove the softened

paint. (However, this method is not recom-

mended on latex).

The tool should be kept in motion to pre-

vent burnt wood. Although a relatively safe

method of paint removal, an electric paint

remover still must be handled carefully.

Hot Air GunsHot air guns produce heat up to 550° C to

melt paint and remove it easily. Some guns

have variable heat settings. Unlike electric

strippers, the guns are held above the painted

surface (usually 2" to 4"), and a putty knife or

scraper then removes the paint.

Hot air guns can be used to remove var-

nish and paint, as well as to soften and

remove putty, laminate or dry paint and

wood finishes.

Masking TapeMasking tape is a general-purpose, pres-

sure-sensitive tape. A quality masking tape

unwinds easily without splitting. It has

excellent ability to stick immediately and

securely to nearly all surfaces, yet pulls

away without damaging the surface.

Pressure-sensitive tape is also available for

securing carpeting, underlay and rugs. This

is a double-faced tape that adheres securely

to fabric and flooring, forming a bond that

prevents creeping, bulging and overlapping.

A pressure-sensitive tape is also available for

padding and absorbing shock. It is suggested

for covering bottoms of lamps, ashtrays and

bookends and is more durable than felt.

A multi-purpose tape consisting of

asphalt adhesive with aluminum facing

makes general repairs in roofing, gutter-

ing, leaking pipes and hoses in addition

to sealing cracks.

All-purpose tapes are increasingly being

replaced by tapes designed for specific tasks

such as for use on baseboards and trim,

glass, hard-to-stick surfaces, lacquer surfaces,

brick and tile, and delicate surfaces, as well

as two-sided tape for holding up drop cloth

and solvent-resistant tape designed for spray

painting projects.

Masking tools are available to make the

taping process go quicker. Some types offer

automatic tape alignment for applying

masking tape on trim and moldings.

Spackling CompoundThis is a fine-ground, slow-setting powder.

It remains workable for three to four hours.

Spackling compound is excellent for patching

cracked plaster, filling nail holes, repairing

wall tile and smoothing surface imperfections

on unprimed wood. For more information,

see (How to Patch & Repair Drywall).To save mixing, most companies make

spackling compound in paste form. This is

harder to work with, especially in larger

holes. Lightweight spackling is the easiest

to use—it will not shrink, crack or sag and

requires little or no sanding. The com-

pound can be painted almost immediate-

ly. Patches with lightweight spackling,

however, are not as sturdy as those made

with powder-mix compounds.

One type of spackling changes colour

when optimum drying time is achieved. It

goes on pink and turns white when dry.

Exterior spackling paste is for repairing

minor cracks, breaks and holes in wood and

masonry. It dries quickly, sands easily, is

resistant to mildew and weathering and is

ready to paint in minutes.

Wallboard joint compound comes pre-

mixed for easy application to cover and fin-

ish gypsum wallboard joints. Add a little

water and mix for at least one minute. It

should be smooth before using. Wallboardjoint tape is used with joint compound to

help reinforce gypsum panel joints. For

more information, see (HangingDrywall).

Stucco patch repairs large cracks and holes

in both interior and exterior stucco. It

matches texture of the original stucco and is

durable and permanent.

Tile GroutTile grout is a white powder (also avail-

able in paste form) that becomes a strong

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patching agent when mixed with water. It

is effective in areas subject to moisture

and strain. Frequently used to fill cracks

between bathtubs and walls, it can also be

used to repair cracks around kitchen

sinks, towel racks, soap dishes and wash

basins and for filling breaks between floor

and wall tile. It dries white, unless tinted

with a dry color.

Also available are a wide range of colored

tile grouts (sanded and non-sanded) that can

be used with all types of tile, marble, slate

and granite.

Grout colourant renews or changes grout

colour. It seals grout joints and evens

colours.

Grout sealer offers invisible protection

from grease, oil, stains, dirt, mold and

mildew for tile, grout and masonry. It can be

used on all sanded and non-sanded grout

colours, indoors or outdoors.

Grout cleaner is a non-abrasive cleaner

that’s strong enough to cut through

grease, stains, mould and mildew but will

not erode grout.

Glazing CompoundGlazing compound is a long-lasting mate-

rial used for glazing wood or metal sash. It

remains semi-elastic under a smooth, firm,

wrinkle-free film that forms when the mate-

rial sets. It does not dry rock-hard and is eas-

ier to remove when reglazing.

It resists cold, heat and moisture and is used

for patching or sealing small openings or

cracks. Glazing can be tinted with oil colour.

Joint CementJoint cement is used in drywall construc-

tion as a bedding compound for the joint

tape and as filler for nail holes. It is available

in powder or ready-mixed form. Some ready-

mixed types may also be used as texture

paint. One pound (0.5 kg) is sufficient for 12

lineal feet of joint surfaces. For more infor-

mation, see (Hanging Drywall).

Patching PlasterPatching plaster is a fast-setting powder

ready to use by adding water. It dries hard to

uniform, white colour. It repairs and covers

large holes and deep cracks in plaster walls

and ceilings. Patching plaster may be drilled,

sanded and painted and can be textured to

match existing surface.

Plaster and Putty PencilsPlaster pencils are used for repairing

cracks and small holes in plaster. They

require no mixing, have good adhesion and

dry quickly.

Putty pencils serve a similar purpose,

though they are coloured to fill holes in

wood. Customers pick the putty pencil to

match the wood tones in their home.

Plaster of ParisPlaster of Paris is a quick-setting white

powder used to repair wallboard, plaster

walls and ceilings, set bathroom wall fix-

tures—towel racks, soap dishes, etc.—and

for art projects. It hardens in 5-30 min-

utes. No more water than necessary

should be added; when water evaporates,

the plaster shrinks.

Putty Available in either dry or pliable form,

putty repairs cracks, dents, breaks and holes

in furniture, wood and concrete floors,

woodwork, metal and other interior sur-

faces.

In dry form (known as water putty

because water must be added), it dries to

the shade of new wood but can be tinted

with dry colour. It sets rapidly, cannot be

reworked, dries hard and can be sanded,

tooled and finished like wood.

Pliable putty (also known as wood putty

because it is made from hardwood) is

rubbed on wood surfaces before painting to

close pores in certain woods such as oak,

mahogany, walnut, chestnut, elm, butter-

nut, hickory, ash, rosewood and satinwood.

It is not synonymous with patching materi-

als, which fill holes or cracks in finished or

unfinished surfaces.

Most wood putties come in paste form

and must be thinned; the container label

tells which thinner to use. Putty is brushed

on, rubbed, sanded and sealed before fin-

ishing.

Wood putties are available in water-based

form, allowing greater safety, rapid drying

and less shrinkage. All wood putty patches

must be sanded flush with the old surface.

Patches can be stained, painted or var-

nished.

Epoxy MendersEpoxy menders have excellent adhesive

qualities and are effective in repairing auto

bodies, appliances, plumbing, rain gutters,

playground equipment and garden tools.

Epoxy is a two-part resin and hardener.

These menders usually are white or metallic

color. Surfaces must be free of all foreign

materials, including paint, for epoxy

menders to work effectively.

The two must be mixed together before

the adhesive is effective. Once mixed, the

material will set permanently in a specific

length of time—from a few minutes to 24

hours, depending on the room tempera-

ture.

The bond formed is waterproof and per-

manent and will withstand attack by practi-

cally all common solvents when final cur-

ing is complete.

Because epoxy adhesives harden into

solid mass when mixed, they can also be

used as a patching or filling material for

repair jobs. They can be used to make per-

manent repairs on cracked pipes or radia-

tors or on rotted wooden or metal gutters.

Vinyl Patching KitsVinyl patching kits contain a patching

material that forms a permanent patch over

holes, tears, etc., in vinyl. Some kits require

heat, while other patching material cures in

air and requires no heat. Also included in

these kits is an assortment of “graining

paper,” used to reproduce any design in the

vinyl.

With a backing behind the hole in the

vinyl, patching material is brushed over the

hole and proper graining paper is laid over

the patch.

With material that requires heat, an iron

is then pressed over the graining paper to

apply the proper heat to the patching

material, causing it to take on the pattern

of the vinyl and to set properly.

An assortment of touch-up colours is

available to blend the patch into the colour

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of the vinyl.

Laminate Repair KitsLaminate countertop repair kits provide

adhesive and filler to patch chips, burns and

scars in laminate surfaces.

Assorted decorator colours and wood

tones are available. Mixing time for colour

compounds is usually unlimited to pro-

vide time for a perfect match before hard-

ener is added. After adding hardener and

mixing, filler cures in about five minutes.

Filler stands up to shock and is heat-

resistant up to about 200° F.

Fiberglass PatchingFiberglass fabric for patching and water-

proofing is popular because of its continued

flexibility after application, preventing reap-

pearance of the same crack.

Sold in kits, it includes fiberglass tape and

oil-based mastic. After the tape is applied over

the crack, the mastic is brushed over the tape.

The edges are then feathered to blend with

the surface being repaired. Kits are recom-

mended for repairing rain gutters, roofing,

interior walls and wood surfaces.

Marble RefinisherMarble refinisher restores mirror-like shine

on polished stone and removes light etch-

ing, watermarks, glass rings and dullness.

CAULKS ANDSEALANTS

Caulking and sealing are inexpensive

ways to seal air and water leaks in homes.

They can also prevent moisture damage—

protecting wood, masonry and other sur-

faces from rain and wind—as well as

improving appearance by filling gaps.

However, no particular product is an all-pur-

pose solution or preventative.

Although “caulk” and “sealant” are

often used interchangeably, a sealant is

generally a high-performance caulk.

Sealants are used to close the crack or joint

between sills and foundations; where siding

joins window and door trim; openings around

external electrical outlets, electrical and tele-

phone cables; dryer vents; kitchen, attic and

bathroom vents; flashings; skylights; other

cracks and openings that leak water into

homes or that leak heated air and energy out.

Caulks, on the other hand, are appropriate

for most interior finishing projects; many do

not perform well in wet areas or outdoors.

Most caulks are best for sealing cracks that are

no more than 1/4" wide or 1/4" deep.

The following questions can help you

guide customers to the right caulk or sealant

for their projects.

o Where will the sealant be applied?

o What substrates or surfaces will be

caulked or bonded?

o How much movement or stress will be

endured by the joint to be sealed?

o What type of performance requirements

does the caulk need to meet?

Caulks come in formulations that can

withstand movement and temperature

changes. Most caulks are available in bulk

form and in caulking gun cartridges. In fact,

the label of the cartridge should contain a

list of the suitable uses for that item, as well

as the materials to which it will adhere.

Oil-based caulks are generally effective

for one to three years. They should be

used only in cracks and joints that have

no movement and that are accessible for

recaulking. Oil-based caulks become hard

and brittle. They are characterized by low

movement capabilities.

Latex caulks are effective for filling gaps in

baseboard and trim, as well as for caulking

needs around the window frame. They are

easily applied and clean up with water. They

are also paintable. They harden over time

and are not flexible.

Vinyl latex caulks, which are usually effec-

tive for five years, are most effective on small

cracks in baseboards and little gaps around

windows. They are not effective in wet areas,

such as bathrooms or kitchens. Features

include water cleanup and ease of application.

Vinyl latex is non-flammable and paintable

but not very flexible. It hardens over time.

Acrylic latex caulk is a general-purpose

caulk—more flexible than vinyl latex caulks.

It is water-based, easy to apply, non-flamma-

ble and cleans with water. It adheres to most

surfaces—best on wood and masonry—and

it can be painted shortly after application. It

is available in pigments that allow it to

match brick and tile, among other surfaces.

It remains effective for 10 to 15 years.

However, it is not recommended for an area

that is subject to excessive water collection.

It is flexible and it maintains that flexibility

over time.

Siliconized acrylic latex caulk should not

be confused with pure silicone caulks. It is a

good, all-purpose caulk for most interior and

exterior applications. This medium-perform-

ance, water-based caulk can withstand

greater movement than acrylic latex. The sil-

icone additives improve water resistance. It

can be used on the interior or exterior with

good adhesion, even to glass and ceramic

tile. It also comes in a variety of colours as

well as clear formulas. It applies easily, is

non-flammable, paintable, mildew-resistant

and cleans with water. It endures moderate

temperature changes, with a life expectancy

of about 25-35 years.

Asphaltic caulks are designed primarily

for exterior use, especially for asphalt drive-

ways (loose or damaged shingles, flashings,

etc.). They have poor flexibility and low

movement capabilities. They are best used

in areas that do not get too warm or too

cold and in joints accessible for recaulking.

They also can be messy and stain wood,

clothing and substrates. Asphaltic caulks

must be cleaned with solvents.

Tub and tile caulk is a specialty perform-

ance caulk with added mildewcide to protect

against mildew growth in the areas (kitchen,

bathroom) where it is most likely to be used.

A silicone tub and tile caulk may give off a

strong odour and is more difficult to apply.

Some tub and tile caulks are more flexible

and crack-resistant. Adhesive formulas are

available to reset loose bathroom tiles and

repair grout as well as caulk around tubs.

Adhesive caulks are specialty all-pur-

pose caulks that combine a sealant and

adhesive in one. Polyvinyl acetate formu-

las offer stronger adhesive properties than

siliconized acrylic formulas. Adhesive

caulks are for interior and exterior use.

Water-based, they apply easily, are non-

flammable, clean up with water, and are

paintable and mildew resistant. They are

available in a variety of colours.

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Solvent-based acrylics are good exterior

caulks that have a life expectancy of about

25 years. They also have a longer cure time

and odour. Some types must be heated

before application. These caulks are difficult

to apply and feature moderate movement

capability and poor low-temperature flexibil-

ity.

Silicone caulk is good for use around bath-

tubs and sinks. It is water resistant and pro-

vides excellent adhesion to smooth surfaces,

such as metal, glass and tile, but it does not

adhere to masonry. Paint will also not stick

to it and it is difficult to apply. Smears must

be cleaned up with paint thinner.

There are specialty caulks formulated for

specialty applications or for consumers who

do not want to deal with caulking guns.

Rope caulk comes in a roll and can be

pressed into place by hand. Although tradi-

tionally messy, newer roll caulks have a

liner to prevent the caulk from sticking to

itself or to customers’ fingers during instal-

lation. Combination caulk/trim combines a

siliconized caulk with a plastic trim cover-

ing. The consumer enjoys a no-mess instal-

lation and has a mildew-resistant, washable

moulding around the sink or tub areas.

Urethane caulk is elastic, which makes it

good for gaps of 1/4" or more or when join-

ing dissimilar materials.

Butyl rubber sealants are solvent-based,

with a life expectancy of two to 10 years.

Stringy, difficult to apply and slow curing,

they are most efficient when applied to open-

ings between similar surfaces. Not recom-

mended for openings wider or deeper than

1/4" or in 90° corners. Butyl rubber is good for

sealing out water in lap joints. It is also a good

choice for metals and masonry, as well as out-

side for chimneys and gutters. These sealants

offer low to moderate movement capabilities.

Polysulfides are exterior high-performance

sealants available in one- and two-part for-

mulations with a life expectancy of 25 to 50

years. The one-part is easier to use but is not

recommended for joints greater than 3/4"

wide or 3/8" deep. It can be used in high-

movement joints. Objectionable odor, poor

low-temperature applicability and low

shrinkage is tempered by good adhesion. It

should be used on building joints as well as

highway and runway joints. Polysulfides

usually require a primer.

Silicone sealants are the most weather-

resistant and elastic of all sealants. They are

usually a higher-ticket purchase than other

caulks and sealants, but compared to other,

less-performing products the pricing has nar-

rowed. Silicones accommodate greater joint

movement over a wider temperature span

(-50° C to 200° C) than any other class of

materials. Lifetime warranties of durability

P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G

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NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES

SPECIFIC PROPERTYSILICONIZED

ACRYLICSEALANTS

ACRYLICSEALANTS

LATEX ORVINYL

CAULKS

SILICONERUBBER

SEALANTS

SOLVENT-BASEDBUTYL RUBBER

CAULKS

SOLVENT-BASED“CLEAR” CAULKS

Superior adhesion to wide range ofbuilding materials when dry.

Superior adhesion to wide range ofbuilding materials when wet.

Maintains pliability over time.

Paintable with latex and oil-based paints.

Flexible at low temperatures.

Easy to apply–does not stick to fingersand clothes.

Easy to clean up.

Low odour.

Can be applied at temperatures below freezing.

Flammable.

Fast setting–capable of being sprayed withwater immediately after application.

Good water resistance.

PERFORMANCE GUIDE TO CAULKS & SEALANTS

✓ ✓ ✓ ✓

✓ ✓

✓ ✓

✓✓

✓✓

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are available from some manufacturers.

Overall, silicone sealants have excellent

adhesion properties and will bond to woods,

metal, ceramic tiles and glass, although

some surfaces must be primed. Many sili-

cones may be used for both interior and

exterior applications and do not crack or

become brittle with aging.

Most silicones are moisture-resistant and

can be used in high-moisture areas such as

basements. In fact, silicone rubber sealants

are recommended for roofs and around

pools, where they will be continually

immersed in water. Bathroom silicones have

a mildew-resistant additive. However, most

silicones are not paintable and must be

cleaned up with solvents. Some consumers

also object to silicone’s odour, though newer

formulas are less offensive. Check labels and

manufacturer literature for proper usage of

the silicone sealants you sell.

Water-based elastomeric sealant provides

almost the same properties (though not the

wide temperature range) as silicone and at a

lower price. It also offers better adhesion to

wood and porous materials. Easily painted

and cleaned up with water, this type of

sealant has a life expectancy of 25-50 years.

These sealants do take longer to cure because

the water needs to evaporate—and they

should not be applied during wet weather

because they might wash away. They also

should not be applied during cold weather

or else they will freeze.

Polyurethane foam is used for a variety of

jobs, most often around electrical outputs,

pipe penetrations and large voids or open-

ings. It expands to fill gaps, holes and voids

and is good for insulation purposes. It is

easy to apply, cures quickly, is paintable and

offers good adhesion.

A caulk remover can be used for indoor or

outdoor removal of old caulk. It quickly soft-

ens the caulk and is not harmful to surfaces.

Caulk GunsAfter finding the right caulk for the job,

the second concern is how to apply it.

People buying caulk for small projects, such

as lying a bead of caulk around a window or

tub might consider a toothpaste tube-like

applicator that holds 2 oz. to 6 oz. When

finished with the project, the squeezable

caulk tube can be capped for future use or

thrown away.

D-i-yers and professionals generally buy

the more common 10-oz. tubes that are used

with a gun. Some caulk guns are designed

with a cartridge cradle, while others have

parallel frames that lay flat in toolboxes.

Ratchet guns are less expensive, but are

more difficult to use. To stop caulk flow on

the ratchet gun, the user must turn the pis-

ton so the ratchet disengages.

Smooth rod guns are more expensive, but

are easier to use than ratchet guns. With a

smooth rod gun, the user simply disengages

a quick-release thumb plate to stop the flow

of caulk. Drip-free smooth rod caulking guns

allow the piston to back up slightly after

each squeeze so the user does not have to

turn the piston or depress a lever to stop the

flow of caulk. Some models use an automat-

ic vacuum action to draw any unused caulk

back into the nose of the tube.

For large building projects, some profes-

sionals prefer bulk-loaded guns that are

filled from large containers with a pneumat-

ic system. To relieve the stress of pulling a

trigger for long periods, some professionals

use pneumatic guns that work with a small

compressor.

Power guns that operate with a rechargeable

battery pack are becoming popular with pros

and serious d-i-yers. For more information, see

(Weatherproofing Your Home).

GLAZING MATERIALS

GLASSArchitectural glass is useful as glazing for

windows, doors, shower enclosures and

other household installations.

The National Building Code of Canada,

which in turn is generally adopted by the

provinces and other local jurisdictions,

identifies a number of CAN/CGSB

(Candaian General Standards Board) stan-

dards to which glass must conform.

These standards were prepared to reduce

or eliminate risk of injury associated with

walking, running or falling through or

against glazing materials. The standard spec-

ifies the following locations as “hazardous”:

o 1. Storm doors

o 2. Interior and exterior doors

o 3. Shower and bathtub doors and enclo-

sures

o 4. Certain glazed panels (in “hazardous”

locations)

o 5. Sliding or patio-type doors

All glazing materials manufactured for

use in these locations must comply with

the appropriate CAN/CGSB standard.

Common safety glazing materials include:

Tempered glass—crumbles into small

pieces if broken and leaves no jagged or

sharp edges. Must be ordered to size.

Laminated glass—plastic that is bonded

between two sheets of standard glass. Plastic

sheet retards shattering. Its finished thick-

ness is 1/4”, which may be too thick for

most household replacement situations.

Wire-reinforced glass—wire mesh

embedded in standard glass reduces the

chances of shattering (also 1/4” thick).

Standard glass—can be sold for purposes

not covered by the safety standard. It comes

in three grades: AA for highest-grade work, A

for superior glazing quality, and B for gener-

al purposes. A non-reflective glass can be

sold for decorative framing.

Approved rigid plastics, including acrylicand polycarbonate—easy to handle and can

be cut to size. Is less susceptible to breakage

than glass products and will fall into large

pieces with curved edges if it does break.

May scratch easily.

Scratches in plastics can be removed by

buffing with automotive paste wax contain-

ing no rubbing compound and can be mini-

mized if cleaned with plastic cleaner and

polish products.

Acrylic safety glazing is commonly used

to replace broken glass in windows and

doors. Acrylic plastic sheets are manufac-

tured in widths from 18" to 48" and

lengths up to 96".

When replacing single-strength glass with

acrylic safety glazing, recommend .100"

sheet thickness; when replacing double-

strength glass, recommend .125" thickness.

Composition Glass—Composition glass

is imbedded with a transparent layer of

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metal oxide particles; it cuts heating and

cooling costs. The metal layer causes the

glass to release heat half as fast as conven-

tional glass, thus keeping more heat in

during the winter and out during the

summer. Composition glass is used mostly

in double-paned windows; it usually

increases the cost of the windows.

Cutting ToolsHand-held glasscutters for use on standard

(non-safety) glass have an alloy steel wheel at

one end to score the glass, and a ball knob or

notched second end to break the glass along

the score line. A table model with rotating

base cuts circles as well as straight cuts.

Similar tools are used for cutting laminated

and wire-reinforced safety glass. However,

laminated glass, often used in shower doors,

should be cut with a wheel no larger than

.170”. A larger wheel will roll over the “val-

leys” in the pattern usually found on laminat-

ed glass and not give a continuous score. In

addition, the glass must be scored on both

sides since it is actually two pieces of glass.

The scores must align perfectly.

Wire-reinforced safety glass needs a score

only on one side. But after breaking, the

wire mesh must be cut just as the plastic

sheet must be cut on laminated glass.

Other glass-cutting tools include glass cut-

ters with interchangeable cutting wheels so

that glass of various thicknesses and textures

can be cut; cutting machines designed for

cutting ceramic tiles; and glass cutters that

dispense a fine bead of oil to ease glass scor-

ing. There are also point drivers especially

designed for picture framing and other glaz-

ing needs. Special glass pliers help grip the

glass for clean breaks.

Rigid plastics can be easily cut with special

plastic-cutting tools available from a number

of manufacturers.

LADDERS

The three basic types of ladders are

straight (extension), step and step/exten-sion. Stepladders include stepstools and plat-

form ladders, generally for home or light

commercial use. Multi-purpose ladders are

also available that can be used as scaffolding

and for other applications.

Quality classifications of step/extension

ladders include consumer (household), com-mercial (mechanic) and industrial grades.

Ladder rungs are either flat, round or “D”

shaped. Stepladders use channels for flat

steps. “D” rungs are preferred for step/exten-

sion and straight ladders.

Standards established by CSA International

(CSA) and required for ladder identification

are:

Type I, industrial duty. For tradesmen,

construction, maintenance and industrial.

Type II, commercial duty. For handymen,

light maintenance, light mechanics.

Type III, light duty for household use.

All ladders should bear labels with ratings,

sizes and maximum standing heights.

Customers should be instructed on recom-

mended use.

Suggesting a LadderThere are four major points to consider

when advising a customer about a ladder

purchase. First is the kind of activity

involved. Second is the demands of the

application. Third is the height the ladder

must reach so the climber may work from

a safe position. The last is basic material

from which the ladder is made.

In most cases, the intended activity will

make the choice obvious. For example, a

stepladder would be the choice to paint

interior walls and ceilings, while an exten-

sion ladder usually is needed to paint out-

side. If the job involves more effort than

usual, or will require more time on the lad-

der, try to sell up (a platform ladder instead

of a stepladder, for instance).

All ladders are designed to hold a cer-

tain weight. Therefore, ladders are

matched or “job-rated” to the physical

demands of the application. For instance,

a ladder used daily on a construction site

obviously should have a sturdier construc-

tion than the ladder used a few times a

year around the house.

The most important factor is the rated

load capacity (i.e., the aggregate working

weight of the user, his clothing and his

tools). For that reason, the duty rating is

described in terms of pounds.

Every ladder’s duty rating is color-coded.

A label in the appropriate color is promi-

nently displayed on the side rail. Look for

the proper duty ratings to match the high-

est level of use.

The height of the maximum safe work-

ing position for the ladder must also be

considered. Stepladders should be high

enough for the user not to have to stand

above the second step from the top. (The

first step from the top carries a label

warning the user not to stand there.) On

extension ladders, the user should stand

no more than four rungs from the top.

The base of the ladder should be one-

fourth the distance from the top support

of the ladder to its bottom support.

Ladder MaterialThe most common—and generally the

most available—materials for ladders are

wood, aluminum and fiberglass.

Wood ladders are non-conductive when

clean and dry. They also offer a natural,

firm grip for the worker’s feet and hands.

However, wood ladders are also heavy. A

pleasing traditional look, wide availability

and outstanding economy are among

wood ladders’ strongest attributes.

Wood ladders should be treated with two

coats of clear penetrating sealer or varnish.

However, opaque sealers should never be used

on wood ladders because they hide cracks or

other defects. Hinges and other moving hard-

ware should be lubricated periodically; if the

metal is not rustproof, however, it should be

treated with clear varnish or other rustproof-

ing material.

Aluminum ladders’ strongest advantage is

that they are lightweight, provide excellent

strength and offer reliable performance.

Aluminum ladders are corrosion-resistant and

require little if any maintenance. Non-rust-

proof metal ladders should be varnished peri-

odically. They conduct electricity, however, so

they should never be used when working

near energized electrical lines.

Fiberglass ladders offer a favorable blend

of the more desirable qualities of wood and

aluminum. It’s non-conductive (like dry,

clean wood) but made of sturdy modern

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materials (like aluminum). Fiberglass ladders

should be recommended for a customer

who is planning to use them regularly and

in varying circumstances.

Ladder AccessoriesThere are a number of accessories

designed for use with the different types

of ladders. These accessories increase the

safety, usefulness and versatility of ladders

and include:

Extension ladder stabilizers make exten-

sion ladders safer to use. Most models pro-

vide a wider or more stable base and pro-

tective covers to protect the work surface.

Ladder cinches can be used to hold an

extension ladder tight against the work

surface.

Levelers can be attached to the leg of a lad-

der to allow it to stand on uneven surfaces.

Accessories like paint can hooks and traysprovide a convenient place for paint or tools.

Ladder jacks convert a pair of extension

ladders into a working platform that

reduces the number of times ladders must

be moved.

Specialty accessories like cable and “V”

hooks make it possible to rest an exten-

sion ladder against a wire or a pole.

Accessories for stepladders include mul-

tiple pocket tool holders and caddies for

added convenience. Specialty trays hold

paint cans, brushes, rollers and tools.

Paint can hooks attach to the ladder and

provide a secure place for paint cans.

Specialty accessories like conduit holders

can be used to hold such things as con-

duit, fluorescent light bulbs or pipe.

P A I N T & D E C O R A T I N G

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NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES

LADDER SAFETY TIPS

Ladder users should learn the proper meth-ods for working with a ladder. Spendingtime learning how to use the ladder canpay off in greater security and conven-ience, extend ladder life and shorten thetime required for the job.

• Don’t use or repair a bent or damagedladder.

• Don’t test a ladder by jumping on it.

• Don’t use a ladder on slippery surfacesor uneven ground.

• Don’t place ladder feet on power cordsor come in contact with electrical currentor power lines.

• Don’t climb down a ladder with yourback to the ladder or carrying a load inyour arms.

• Don’t over-reach, lean to one side orstand on one foot.

• Don’t hurry or skip steps when gettingon or off the ladder.

• Don’t try to move a ladder while on it orby bouncing or “walking” the ladder.

• Don’t leave a ladder unattended.

• Don’t position the ladder where it blocksfoot traffic or where it could be bumpedby a door.

• Don’t place the ladder on boxes, chairs,furniture or other movable objects to tryto climb higher.

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CANADIAN IMPERIAL AND METRIC MEASUREMENTS

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NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES

Canadians generally use amixture of measurement units.

Liquid volumes are typicallybased on the metric (SI) sys-tem. Temperatures and dis-tances are commonly specifiedusing metric terminology.Weights, depending on thetype of product, use either themetric or Canadian Imperialsystem. Lengths and dimen-sions of construction products,particularly for residential use,are generally in CanadianImperial measurements. Andmany of the products we use

are manufactured in U.S.measurements.

Canadian building codes arewritten using metric units. Butthe construction trades, partic-ularly those in residential con-struction, typically use theCanadian Imperial system.This mixture of measurementsystems frequently results inmany product manufacturersproviding information usingboth systems. Unfortunately,the approaches used in pre-senting the “converted” meas-urements are not consistent.

Some information is based on“exact” conversion measure-ments, whereas other informa-tion is based on “rounded”measurements.

From your perspective and incommunicating with your cus-tomer, it is important to recog-nize that in some instances theexact conversion is necessaryand in other instances a more“rounded” conversion isappropriate.

CONVERSION FACTORS

1 inch (in.) = 25.4 mm 32 fluid ounces - US (oz.) = 1 US qt.

1 foot (ft.) = 0.3048 m 40 fluid ounces - Canadian (oz.) = 1 Canadian qt.

1 yard (yd.) = 0.9144 m

1 mile (mi.) = 1.609 km 1 fluid ounce - US (oz.) = 29.6 mL

1 fluid ounce - Canadian (oz.) = 22.8 mL

1 ounce - avoirdupois (oz.) = 28.35 g 1 cup - US (cup) = 236mL

1 pound - avoirdupois (lb.) = 0.454 kg 1 cup - Canadian (cup) = 227mL

1 quart - US (qt) = 0.946 L

1 pound per square inch (psi) = 6.895 kN/m2 1 quart - Canadian (qt) = 1.136 L

1 pound per square foot (psf) = 0.04788 kPa 1 gallon - US (gal.) = 3.785 L

1 gallon - Canadian (gal.) = 4.546 L

Celsius temperature = (Fahrenheit temperature - 32) / 1.8

SOME TYPICAL MEASUREMENTS FOR HARDWARE AND FASTENER PRODUCTS(“rounded” conversions)

Length Length Length Length Weight

in. mm in. mm in. m ft. m lbs kg1/32 0.8 1

3/8 35 48 1.2 7.5 2.3 1 0.45

1/8 3.2 1

1/2 38 60 1.5 10 3.0 10 4.5

1/4 6.4 2 51 72 1.8 12 3.7 50 22.7

3/8 9.5 4 102 84 2.1 18 5.5 100 45.4

1/2 12.7 12 305 90 2.3 25 7.6 750 340

5/8 15.9 18 457 120 3.0 50 15.2 1250 567

3/4 19.1 24 610 156 4.0 75 22.9 1900 862

7/8 22.2 30 762 216 5.5 100 30.5 2650 1202

1 25.4 36 914 312 7.9 5000 2268

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A C K N O W L E D G E M E N T S

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NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES

� The course was first developed by the North American RetailHardware Association (NRHA) and the Home Center Institute (HCI)under the direction of a project coordinator and a number ofauthors. Several U.S. based companies provided industry specificinformation.

This second Canadian Edition of the ACHR is based on NRHA/HCI’s14th Edition. It has been extensively modified and rewritten withthe help of Carl R. Wilson & Associates Ltd. (CRWAL) so as toreflect Canadian products and construction practices. We alsoacknowledge the many Canadian organizations and companiesthat provided information for this Canadian edition of theAdvanced Course in Hardware Retailing (ACHR) and the BuildingMaterial Product Knowledge Course (BMPK).

Because local codes and regulations vary greatly, you are remindedto check with local experts and authorities on which codes,regulations and practices apply in your area.

Copyright© 2004 by NRHA. All rights reserved. No part of thispublication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, orany system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic,mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, withoutprior written permission of the publisher.

Though the information in this course is intended to beaccurate and useful, the authors, editors, publishers,CRHA and CRWAL and their directors, officers, agentsand employees will not be liable for any damage whatso-ever that might occur from any use of this material.