THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

China WilliamsGreg Bloom, Celeste Brash, Stuart Butler, Jayne D’Arcy, Shawn Low,

Brandon Presser, Nick Ray, Simon Richmond, Daniel Robinson, Adam Skolnick, Iain Stewart, Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Richard Waters

Myanmar(Burma)

p483

Indonesiap147

Thailandp644

Cambodiap62

Laosp311

Vietnamp807

Philippinesp551

Timor-Lestep787

BruneiDarussalam

p48

Singaporep614

Malaysiap379

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z ................. 926Transport ........................ 932Border Crossings ........... 935Health ............................. 940Language ........................ 947Index ................................ 959Map Legend .................... 973

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO

HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

ON THE ROAD

This chapter includes general information about Southeast Asia. Speci c information for each country is listed in the individual country directories.

AccommodationThe accommodation listed

this guidebook occupies ow end of the price and

es scale. Rooms typi-our walls, a bed

y for keep-

it for cleanliness, comfort and quiet. Don’t feel obligat-ed to take a room just be-cause the place is mentioned in Lonely Planet. Sometimes the quality of a guesthouse plummets after gaining a mention in Lonely Planet, but this can be corrected by dili-gent travellers who exercise their own judgement.

Other accommodatiotips for savvy travelle» If the price is tif they hav

A Octrip actiFor ctouryou’er brfromhere

Div Soa

Directory A–Z

PAGE

46

PAGE

925

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Southeast Asia .............. 220 Top Experiences ........ 6Need to Know .................. 16If You Like... ...................... 18Month by Month .............. 20Itineraries ......................... 25Big Adventures, Small Budget.................. 30Responsible Travel .......... 37Countries at a Glance ..... 42

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip

UNDERSTAND SOUTHEAST ASIA

Southeast Asia Today ..... 910History .............................. 913Religion ............................ 917Trouble Spots ................. 921

y

39 would be Muslim36 would be Buddhist18 would be other7 would be Christian

if South East Asia were 100 people

2004 An Indian Ocean earthquake with

its epicentre near Sumatra (Indone-

sia) triggers a giant tsunami that destroys

lives and communi-ties in four Southeast

Asian countries.

2011 Southeast Asia

weathers the global economic downturn

with positive growth. Massive and historic

ooding in Thailand injures its manufactur-

ing sector and Myan-mar moves toward

democratic reform.

JOH

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OR

TH

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©

» Tsunami damage, 2004

Elemental Forces The life-giving force of water has sculpted many Southeast Asian landscapes. The jungle-topped islands of the Malay pen-insula are cradled by coral reefs that tame the ocean into azure pools. The languorous Vietnamese coastline greets the South China Sea from tip to tail, while inland there are karst mountains – evidence of long-vanished oceans. And the muddy Mekong River lopes through tightly knit mountains to at rice baskets. The traditional ‘highways’ of Borneo are tannin- stained rivers that slice through the wilder ness. And the volcanoes of Indonesia and the Philippines provide a glimpse into the earth’s blacksmithing core.

Spiritual Spaces Southeast Asia bathes in spirituality. With the dawn, pots of rice come to a boil and religious supplications waft from earth to sky. Barefoot monks silently move through dull-lit streets collecting food alms from the faithful; prayers bellow from needle-tipped mosques calling the devotees to bend to earth in submission; family altars are tended like thirsty houseplants. And the region’s great monuments have been built for the divine, from Angkor’s hea-ven incarnate to Bagan’s in nity-bending temple expanse. This is a region in close communication with the divine. Visitors can join in on the conversation on medit-ation retreats or by hiking into the mist

Welcome to Southeast Asia

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE

2

PAGE

909GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so youcan make sense of what you see

PLANYO

URTRIP

MO

NT

HB

YM

ON

TH

�z�Hue Festival (Biennial)

Vietnam’s biggest cultural event (www.huefestival.com) is held every two years, including 2014. Art, theatre, music, circus and dance performances, include domestic and inter-national acts, are held inside Hue’s Citadel.

�z�Gawai Dayak The end of the rice

harvest season is celebrated the rst two days of June in the Malaysian Borneo state of Sarawak. City-dwelling Dayaks return to their long-houses to socialise, eat and down shots of tuak (rice wine).

July Mainland Southeast Asia prepares for Buddhist Lent, a period of reflection and meditation that coincides with the rainy season (southwest monsoon). Despite the drizzle, this is an ideal time for rural sightseeing as rice planting begins and the formerly parched landscape becomes verdant. The Samui Archipelago often stays dry during the southwest monsoon.

�z�Asanha Bucha The full moon of the

eighth lunar month com-memorates Buddha’s rst sermon.

�z�Khao Phansaa Early in the mon-

soon rains, Buddhist monks retreat into monasteries. This is the traditional time for young men to enter the monkhood. Worshippers

MIC

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(Above) Worshippers at Singapore’s Sri Mariamman Temple (p 619 ) during Deepavali festival (Below) Girls in hill-tribe costume for Buddhist New Year (Songkran) festivities in Chiang Mai (p 684 ), Thailand

22

Internet Resources Responsible Travel (www.responsible-travel.org) General tips on how to be a ‘better’ tourist regarding environmental issues, begging and bargaining, as well as ethical holidays. Mekong Responsible Tourism (www.mekongresponsibletourism.org) Online guide promoting community-based and socially responsible tourism in the Mekong region. Homestays, cultural attractions and eco-lodges are often featured. WWF International (www.panda.org) Read

WWF’ i t l i t

In Southeast Asia, tourism brings bless-ings and curses. Small-scale tourism fosters family -owned businesses that can propel communities into the middle class. Child ren of guesthouse owners often attend college and become professionals, accomplishments that would have been di cult to attain when subsistence agriculture or shing was the primary industry. Tourism helps preserve cultural and environmental assets. From Cambodia’s Angkor ruins to Borneo’s forests, tourists’ dollars make it more pro t-able to protect these treasures than to loot them. Tourism fosters one-on-one cultural

Responsible Travel

I SBN 978 -1 -74179 -854 -8

9 781741 798548

99625

» (above) Woman working the fields outside her home in Vietnam’s far north » (left) Worshipper praying at Wat Phra That Doi Suthep Buddhist temple (p 685 ) in Chiang Mai, Thailand

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ITIN

ERA

RIES

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BRUNEI DARUSSALAM . . . . . .48BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN . . 51Temburong District . . . . . . .56

CAMBODIA . . . . . . . . .62PHNOM PENH. . . . . . . . . . . . 66SIEM REAP & THETEMPLES OF ANGKOR . . . . 80NORTHWESTERN CAMBODIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99Battambang . . . . . . . . . . . . .99Preah Vihear Province . . . .104SOUTH COAST . . . . . . . . . . 108Krong Koh Kong . . . . . . . . .108Sihanoukville . . . . . . . . . . . . 111Kampot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118NORTHEASTERN CAMBODIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122Kompong Cham . . . . . . . . . 122Kratie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124Ratanakiri Province . . . . . . 127Mondulkiri Province . . . . . .130

INDONESIA . . . . . . . . 147JAVA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149Jakarta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150Bogor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162Pangandaran . . . . . . . . . . . . 165Yogyakarta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169Borobudur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178Solo (Surakarta) . . . . . . . . . 179Malang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183Gunung Bromo . . . . . . . . . . 186BALI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190

Kuta & Seminyak . . . . . . . . 193Bukit Peninsula. . . . . . . . . . 199Denpasar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .201Ubud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204Lovina & the North . . . . . . 213NUSA TENGGARA . . . . . . . . 216Lombok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217Flores . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .233West Timor . . . . . . . . . . . . .239Sumba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .242SUMATRA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244Padang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .247Bukittinggi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251Danau Toba . . . . . . . . . . . . .255Berastagi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .259Medan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261Banda Aceh . . . . . . . . . . . . .265KALIMANTAN . . . . . . . . . . . 268SULAWESI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274Makassar (Ujung Padang) . .276Tana Toraja . . . . . . . . . . . . .278MALUKU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285PAPUA (IRIAN JAYA) . . . . . 288

LAOS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311VIENTIANE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313NORTHERN LAOS . . . . . . . 325Vang Vieng . . . . . . . . . . . . . .325Luang Prabang . . . . . . . . . .329Nong Khiaw . . . . . . . . . . . . .337Phonsavan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340Luang Nam Tha . . . . . . . . 346CENTRAL & SOUTHERN LAOS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351

Savannakhet . . . . . . . . . . . .355Pakse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .358Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands) . . . . . . 364

MALAYSIA . . . . . . . . .379KUALA LUMPUR . . . . . . . . . 382PENINSULAR MALAYSIA – WEST COAST . . . . . . . . . . . . 395Melaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .395Cameron Highlands . . . . . .401Penang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 405Pulau Langkawi . . . . . . . . . 413PENINSULAR MALAYSIA – EAST COAST . . . . . . . . . . . . 415Pulau Tioman . . . . . . . . . . . 418Kuala Terengganu. . . . . . . .422Pulau Perhentian . . . . . . . .424Kota Bharu . . . . . . . . . . . . 426PENINSULAR INTERIOR . . 428Jerantut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 428Taman Negara . . . . . . . . . . 430MALAYSIAN BORNEO – SABAH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 433Kota Kinabalu . . . . . . . . . . 433Mt Kinabalu & Kinabalu National Park . . . . . . . . . . 440Sandakan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 443Sepilok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 444MALAYSIAN BORNEO – SARAWAK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 450Kuching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 450Batang Rejang . . . . . . . . . . 461Gunung Mulu National Park . . . . . . . . . . 465Limbang Division . . . . . . . 469

On the Road

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

MYANMAR (BURMA) . . . . . . . . . 483YANGON (RANGOON) . . . 486THE DELTA, WEST COAST BEACHES & NORTH OF YANGON . . . . . . . . . . . . 496SOUTHEASTERN MYANMAR. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 501INLE LAKE & SHAN STATE . . . . . . . . . . 504Mandalay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 510Bagan (Pagan) . . . . . . . . . . 523UPPER AYEYARWADY . . . . 530WESTERN MYANMAR . . . . 532

PHILIPPINES . . . . . . . 551MANILA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 553NORTH LUZON . . . . . . . . . 566 The Cordillera . . . . . . . . . . 566SOUTHEAST LUZON . . . . . 571MINDORO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 574THE VISAYAS . . . . . . . . . . . 577Panay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .578Negros . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .582Cebu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .585Bohol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 591Samar & Leyte . . . . . . . . . .593MINDANAO . . . . . . . . . . . . . 595PALAWAN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 598

SINGAPORE . . . . . . . 614

THAILAND . . . . . . . . 644BANGKOK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 648CENTRAL THAILAND . . . . . 672

Ayuthaya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .673Lopburi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .677Sukhothai . . . . . . . . . . . . . 680NORTHERN THAILAND . . . 684Chiang Mai . . . . . . . . . . . . 684Chiang Rai . . . . . . . . . . . . . 696Golden Triangle . . . . . . . . . 699Pai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .702Mae Hong Son . . . . . . . . . .705WESTERN THAILAND . . . . 706Kanchanaburi . . . . . . . . . . .707NORTHEASTERN THAILAND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 712Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 713Surin & Around . . . . . . . . . . 717Ubon Ratchathani . . . . . . .720Nong Khai . . . . . . . . . . . . . .722EASTERN GULF COAST . . . 726Ko Samet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .726Ko Chang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .728SOUTHERN GULF COAST . . 731Hua Hin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 731Ko Samui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .734Ko Pha-Ngan . . . . . . . . . . . .738Ko Tao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .744THE ANDAMAN COAST . . 751Phuket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .756Krabi Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . .762Ko Phi-Phi . . . . . . . . . . . . . .764Ko Lanta. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 767Ko Lipe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .770

TIMOR-LESTE . . . . . . 787DILI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 790ATAURO ISLAND . . . . . . . . 794

EAST OF DILI . . . . . . . . . . . 795WEST OF DILI . . . . . . . . . . . 797SOUTH OF DILI . . . . . . . . . 797OECUSSI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 798

VIETNAM . . . . . . . . . .807HANOI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 809NORTHERN VIETNAM . . . . 828Halong Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . 828Cat Ba Island . . . . . . . . . . 829Sapa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 838CENTRAL VIETNAM . . . . . . 842Hue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 842Danang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 850Hoi An . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .853SOUTH-CENTRAL COAST . .859Nha Trang . . . . . . . . . . . . . .859Mui Ne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 865Con Dao Islands . . . . . . . . .867CENTRAL HIGHLANDS . . . 868Dalat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 868HO CHI MINH CITY (SAIGON) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 872MEKONG DELTA . . . . . . . . . 884Phu Quoc Island . . . . . . . . 889

Bali Sea

BayHalong

Tonkin

Gulf ofThailand

Gulf of Bayof

S E A

Bengal

A N D A M A N

S E A

JAVA SEA

Strait of Melaka

Sunda Strait

I N D I A NO C E A N

S O U T H C H I N A

Sabah

Sarawak

Kalimantan

BEGAWAN

HANOI

Hoi An

Ho ChiMinh City

VIENTIANE

BANGKOK

ChiangMai

PHNOMPENH

PrabangLuang

Bagan

YANGON

Kuching

LUMPURKUALA

JAKARTA

BANDAR SERI

Borobudur

MtKinabalu

GunungBromo

(4095m)

Fansipan(3143m)

20ºN

10ºN

110ºE100ºE

0º

10ºS

InleLake

TonléSap

DanauToba

ParacelIslands

Madura

Bali

Ko Tao

Ko Chang

Ko SamuiKo Pha-Ngan Phu

Quoc

Hainan

Pulau

Mergui (Myeik)Archipelago

IslandsPulau

Riau

Anambas

NatunaIslands

PulauBangka

SingkepIslands

PulauBelitung

Islands

Pulau Penang

Sumatra

PulauSiberut

MentawaiIslands

Tioman

Java

Christmas Island

PulauSimeulue

PulauNias

Pulau LangkawiWeh

Lombok

Equator

TamanNegara

Barito

Mekong

Mekong

Kapuas

Hari

Musi

CHINA

MALAYSIA

LAOS

CHINA

CAMBODIA

VIETNAM

THAILAND

BANGLADESH

INDIA

INDIA

MYANMAR(BURMA)

MALAYSIA

INDONESIA

SINGAPORE

AUSTRALIA

INDONESIA

BRUNEIDARUSSALAM

Templesof Angkor

National ParkTanjung Puting

Chiang Mai (Thailand)

Ko Tao (Thailand)

Bangkok (Thailand)

Bagan (Myanmar)

Inle Lake (Myanmar)

Bali (Indonesia)

Tanjung Puting National Park(Indonesia)

Penang (Malaysia)

Temples of Angkor (Cambodia)

Luang Prabang (Laos)

Halong Bay (Vietnam)

Hoi An (Vietnam)

Hanoi (Vietnam)

Study Thai cuisine in thiscultured city (p684)

Learn how to swimwith the fishes (p744)

(p505)

(p648)Mega-watt city of excesses

Ancient temples from hereto eternity (p523)

Placid lake living

Remote research camp fororang-utans (p271)

culinary cultures (p405)Graze through three

Awesome monuments

colourful culture (p190)

riverside city (p329)

Limestone towers anchoring

Blissful beaches and

a jewel-coloured bay (p828)

Antique city for sightseeingand sophistication (p853)

Get lost in an

Reverential

to the gods (p80)

old world (p809)

Southeast Asia› Southeast Asia

S E AP H I L I P P I N E

S E AE A S T C H I N A

Luzon Strait

Sea

SeaVisayan

Bohol Sea

SULU SEA

Sibuyan

O C E A N

TelukCenderawasih

SEAHALMAHERA

BANDA SEA

SERAM SEA

ARAFURA SEA

TIMOR SEA

CELEBES SEA

BoneTeluk

TominiTeluk

SAWU SEA

FLORES SEA

SEAMALUKU

P A C I F I C

Papua

MANILA

Banaue

DILI

(5030m)Puncak Jaya

20ºN

10ºN

0º

140ºE

10ºS

120ºE

Samar

DinagatSiargao

BatanesIslands

Islands

IslandsPolillo

Luzon

Cebu

Bohol

Group

Palawan Negros

Panay

Mindoro

Calamian

Babuyan

Mindanao

Letye

Catanduanes

Biak

Aru

Yapen

Pulau

Talaud

IslandsSangir

Halmahera

Morotai

Misool

Banda

ObiBacanPulau

Buru

Islands

Ambon

Seram

Waigeo

IslandsKai

SudarsoYos

IslandsBabar

LetiWetar

West Timor

Islands IslandsTanimbar

Islands

ArchipelagoSulu

SempornaArchipelago

Tawi-Tawi

Jolo

Banggai

Togean Islands

IslandsSulawesi

IslandsAlor

RoteSawu

IslandsSolor

Sumba

Selayar

Komodo

Flores

Sumbawa IslandAtauro

Butung (Buton)

Sula Islands

Basilan

Equator

Tropic of Cancer

TorajaTana

GUINEANEW

PAPUA

PALAU

TAIWAN

PHILIPPINES

AUSTRALIA

TIMOR-LESTE

INDONESIA

Ifugao Rice Terraces(Philippines)

Kuching (Malaysia)

vertical peaks (p570)Emerald staircases mounting

jungles (p450)Gateway to Borneo's

Top Experiences

500 km300 miles

00

Top Experiences ›

Iain Stewart Vietnam Iain Stewart fi rst visited, and was captivated by Vietnam as a traveller in 1991 (armed with a trusty Lonely Planet). He’s now a Brighton-based writer, specialising in hot countries a long way from his English seaside abode. For this trip he biked the Ho Chi Minh Highway, sailed to the Chams, drank in Danang and explored the heart of Phong Nha.

Ryan Ver Berkmoes Indonesia Chapter Coordinator, Bali, Maluku, Sulawesi Ryan Ver Berkmoes fi rst visited Indonesia in 1993. On his visits since he has criss-crossed the archipelago, trying to make a dent in those 17,000 islands. Recent thrills included fi nally reaching the amazing Banda Islands after 18 years of trying, fi nding the perfect fl at on Bali and being given the seat of honour at a Torajan funeral ceremony (it wasn’t his, fortunately). Off -island, Ryan lives in Portland, Oregon

and writes about Indonesia, travel and more at ryanverberkmoes.com.

Richard Waters Laos, Kalimantan A visit to Laos in 1999 as the country was still warming to the west, began a close association with the country that sees Richard return-ing regularly. His fi rst travels were around Europe as a teenager, then Central America and US by camper van. Writing the Kalimantan chapter was like a journey back in time and a privilege. These days he writes and shoots for The Sunday Times, Independent and Observer. To read more of his work and articles

about Laos, visit www.richardwaters.co.uk. He lives with his family in the Cotswolds.

Jayne D’Arcy Timor-Leste Writing about Timor-Leste always stirs up a bit of passion in Jayne. After a stint working in community radio there in 2003 and 2004, she frequently dreams of boarding an Air North plane and returning (and sometimes she does). Partly it’s to catch up with former colleagues, but mostly it’s to see how the country is changing and adapting to its freedom. Jayne is a Melbourne-based author who has a particular fondness for writing about countries that are

recovering after turbulent times.

Shawn Low Singapore Shawn grew up in hot, humid, food-crazy Singapore but later made his way further south to less hot, less humid, food-crazy Melbourne (Australia, not Florida). He’s spent the last fi ve years working for Lonely Planet: as an editor, commissioning editor, author, TV host, and now, travel editor at large. Devouring chilli crab, guzzling Tiger beer and more in the name of research is a hard job, but someone’s gotta do it. So he did. Who knows, he might actually be led home

by his stomach one day. He’s also on Twitter @shawnlow.

Brandon Presser Southern Thailand Growing up in a land where bear hugs are taken literally, this wanderlust-y Canadian always craved swaying palms and golden sand. A trek across southeast Asia as a teenager was the clincher — he was hooked, returning year after year to scuba dive, suntan, and savour spoonfuls of spicy sôm-đam (papaya salad). After leaving his job at the Louvre, Brandon picked up his pen and rucksack and became a fulltime freelance travel writer. He’s since

co-authored over 40 guidebooks, from Iceland to Thailand and many ‘lands’ in between.

Nick Ray Cambodia A Londoner of sorts, Nick comes from Watford, the sort of town that makes you want to travel. He lives in Phnom Penh with his wife Kulikar and his young children Julian and Belle. He has written for countless guidebooks on the Mekong region, including Lonely Planet’s Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos books. When not writing, he is often out exploring the remote parts of Cambodia as a location scout and manager for the world of television and fi lm, including movies

Tomb Raider and Two Brothers. Motorbikes are a part-time passion (riding them a passion, main-taining them part-time) and he has travelled through most of Indochina on two wheels.

Simon Richmond Myanmar A freelance author and photographer, Simon fi rst visited Myanmar in 2001; he found a country brimming with beautiful sights and gentle people who were delighted to have the chance to interact with those from beyond their bor-ders. A decade later he returned to coordinate Lonely Planet’s Myanmar guide. The many guides for Lonely Planet Simon has worked on since 1999 include several in Southeast Asia.

Daniel Robinson Malaysian Borneo, Brunei Daniel has been writing about Southeast Asia since 1989, when he researched the award-winning fi rst editions of Lonely Planet’s guides to Vietnam and Cambodia. He takes a special interest in tropical rainfor-est habitats and the role that sustainable tourism can play in their conservation. In Borneo, Daniel is especially fond of tramping through Gunung Gading National Park in search of giant Rafflesia fl owers and watching orang-utans cavort in

Semenggoh’s jungle canopy.

Adam Skolnick Nusa Tenggara, Papua Adam Skolnick writes about travel, culture, health, sports, and the environment for Lonely Planet, Men’s Health, Outside, and Travel & Leisure among others. He has authored and co-authored 12 previous Lonely Planet guidebooks, and has travelled and reported extensively throughout Indo-nesia since 2004. To get around Nusa Tenggara and Papua he took three buses,

11 boats and ferries, 13 planes, and hired or hitched 12 cars and 17 motorbikes. You can read more of his work at www.adamskolnick.com.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

China Williams Coordinating author, Thailand China fi rst came to Thailand to teach English in Surin way back in 1997, a few months prior to the currency crisis. She then back-packed through Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos, just like you’re doing now. And it was the highlight of a fun-fi lled decade. Since then, she has shuttled across the Pacifi c to work on various Lonely Planet guidebooks, mainly to Thailand, for nine years. This is her third trip with her son, who is a four-year-old backpacker-in-

training. China lives in Catonsville, Maryland (USA), with her husband, Matt, and son, Felix.

Greg Bloom Philippines Greg lived in Manila for fi ve years before moving to Cambodia in 2009. Travelling the Philippines for Lonely Planet, Greg has fallen off a tricycle, fl own out of a jeepney, and survived a bus crash on the back roads of Bicol. But mostly it’s been good. When not writing about Southeast Asia, Greg might be found snouting around the former Soviet Union (he once called Kyiv home) or running around Asia’s ultimate frisbee fi elds.

Celeste Brash Malaysia Celeste fi rst visited Malaysia while studying at Chiang Mai University, Thailand in 1993 and she’s grazed through the hawker capital of the world several times since on cross-Asia trips and for a handful of Lonely Planet titles. When not de-sensitising her taste buds with sambal Celeste lives in street food–laden Portland, Oregon, with her husband and two children. She’s contributed to about 30 Lonely Planet guidebooks. You can follow her travels via her blog

http://coconutradio.blogspot.com.

Stuart Butler Java, Sumatra Stuart Butler fi rst hit the shores of Indonesia many years ago at the end of a long trans-Asia surf trip. Not surprisingly it was the highlight of his trip. Today Stuart lives with his wife and son on the beautiful beaches of southwest France. His travels for Lonely Planet and a variety of international surf magazines have taken him across Indonesia and beyond, from the desert beaches of Yemen to the coastal jungles of Colombia.

Read more about Greg at:lonelyplanet.com/members/gbloom4

OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 98316th edition – July 2012ISBN 978 1 74179 854 8© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.Bestselling guide to Southeast Asia – source: Nielsen BookScan, Australia, UK and USA, March 2011 to February 2012.

OVERPAGE

MORE WRITERS

Itiner-aries

Whether you’ve got six weeks or six months, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

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Eight WeeksThe Best of Southeast Asia

If you want a ‘sampler plate’ of Southeast Asia, then plan on jetting between coun-tries to hit the highlights. Most international airlines fl y to Bangkok, a chaotic but fantastic city. Fly to Siem Reap to see Angkor’s magnifi cent temples. Bus to Phnom Penh and on to Vietnam’s bustling Ho Chi Minh City. Work your way north with

a stop in adorable Hoi An and on to Hanoi. Air-lift out of Vietnam to laid-back Luang Prabang, Laos’ world heritage city, and then fl y to chic Chiang Mai.

Return to Bangkok by overnight train and work your way south to Ko Tao to learn how to dive before hitting the beachy hot spots on Thailand’s Andaman coast: Phuket, Ko Phi-Phi and Krabi.

Fly from polished Phuket to Penang and overland to Malaysia’s multiethnic capital Kuala Lumpur. Catch a fl ight from Kuala Lumpur to Jakarta and soak up the culture in Yogyakarta and then bus to Gunung Bromo, an active volcano. Leapfrog to blessed Bali for sun, fun and culture. Then catch a cheap fl ight to sophisticated Singapore, which has air connections to everywhere else.

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Mainland ExplorerBeaches, Beaches

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Four to Eight WeeksMainland Explorer

From Bangkok head to Nakhon Ratchasima, gateway to Khmer temples. Get muddy in Khao Yai National Park, then hightail it to

the border at Poipet, aiming for Siem Reap and Cambodia’s Angkor temples. Scoot into shabby-chic Phnom Penh.

Overland through Bavet, crossing to full-throttle Ho Chi Minh City. Migrate to the beaches of Mui Ne or Nha Trang, the antique city of Hoi An and imperial Hue. Rest in Hanoi, a mature, manicured capital. Cruise karst-fi lled Halong Bay and detour to Sapa and its highland communities. Re-turn to Hanoi.

Fly to the Lao capital, Vientiane, bus to athletic Vang Vieng and on to Luang Pra-bang, a reverential riverside city. Continue to the trekking centre of Luang Nam Tha. Ride the Mekong River to the Laos–Thailand border at Huay Xai.

Slide into Chiang Rai for hill-tribe treks, or Chiang Mai. Escape to the mountains of Pai or Mae Hong Son. Pay homage to an-cient capitals at Sukhothai and Ayuthaya.

Return to Bangkok. Fly to Myanmar’s Yangon and continue to the island mon-asteries of Inle Lake, the ancient capital of Mandalay and the ruins of Bagan.

Three to Four WeeksBeaches, Beaches

From Bangkok, make a beeline for the beach-bum islands in the Gulf of Thailand: dive-crazy Ko Tao, hip-pie Ko Pha-Ngan and resorty Ko

Samui. Get certifi ed on Tao, then follow the herd across to the Andaman coast. Khao Lak is the base for live-aboard dive trips to the world-class Surin and Similan islands. Skip down to adrenalin-charged Krabi, home to rock-climbing and cave exploring and then chill-out on laid-back Ko Lanta. Island-hop across the border at Pulau Langkawi to Penang to balance beaching with hawker-centre bingeing.

From Penang, bus to Kota Bharu, the jumping-off point for the fabulous jungle islands of Pulau Perhentian. Chase the coastline south to Mersing, the mainland port for sleepy Pulau Tioman, before re-turning to civilisation in Kuala Lumpur.

There are even more beaches to explore on even bigger islands. See our Indonesia to Timor-Leste itinerary.

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» (above) Woman working the fields outside her home in Vietnam’s far north » (left) Worshipper praying at Wat Phra That Doi Suthep Buddhist temple (p 685 ) in Chiang Mai, Thailand

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Indonesia to Timor-LesteTramp Malaysia & Beyond

Four to Eight WeeksIndonesia to Timor-Leste

Start at Indonesia’s tip in Medan on the island of Sumatra, trundle to the orang-utan outpost of Bukit Lawang and go volcano hiking in

Berastagi. Return to Medan and fl y to love-ly Banda Aceh and dive-tastic Pulau Weh.

Buzz to Java, touching down in Jakarta. Cruise Yogyakarta’s culture trail. Day trip to the giant stupa of Borobudur or huff -and-puff up Gunung Bromo.

Leapfrog to Denpasar, in Bali, to nuzzle the sandy beaches of the Bukit Peninsula or get cultured in Ubud. Party in Gili Trawan-gan, spot dragons on Komodo and go rus-tic on the beaches of Flores. Check your visa and apply for an extension before fl ying to Makassar on the island of Sulawesi. Bus to Tana Toraja, where funeral rituals are ancient and bloody. (Stay tuned for a Tana Toraja airport in 2013.) Travel to the Togean Islands and the northern diving board of Pulau Bunaken. Fly from Manado to Kuala Lumpur.

Alternatively, from Denpasar hop over to Timor-Leste’s capital of Dili to tour old colonial towns and uncrowded reefs.

Four WeeksTramp Malaysia & Beyond

Touchdown in Kuala Lumpur, an easy city for international arrivals. Bus to the tranquil Cameron High-lands and its glossy green tea plan-

tations. Follow the northern migration to Penang for street eats and Malaysian fusion culture. Detour to the beaches of Langkawi. Return to Georgetown and bus to Kota Bharu, the jump-off point for car-free, care-free ambience on Pulau Perhentian. Pick up the Jungle Railway to Taman Negara, an ancient, accessible wilderness.

Return to Kuala Lumpur for a well-planned, well-funded tour of Malaysian Borneo. Fly to Kota Kinabalu, in Sabah, ascend Borneo’s highest peak Mt Kinabalu. Head east to Sepilok and its orang-utan sanctuary. Swing over to Semporna, the gateway to dive sites. Culture vultures should detour to the oil-rich oddity of Brunei and its unassuming capital, Bandar Seri Begawan (BSB), surrounded by pristine rainforests and water villages. Or fl y from Kota Kina-balu to Kuching in Sarawak state, formerly known as the land of the headhunters.

If you’re a city slicker, skip Borneo and cruise through Melaka, a colonial port of call, and then into Singapore for an immersion in modern Asia.

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Six MonthsThe Whole Shebang

Start off in Bangkok and follow the eastern seaboard to forested Ko Chang, cross the Hat Lek–Cham Yeam border bound for Sihanoukville’s collection of scruff y and sublime beaches. Stop in Franco-infl uenced Kampot and its nearby hill station. Turn inland to Phnom Penh to pay your respects at its genocide museums then bus to

Siem Reap and the monumental splendour of Angkor. Board a fl ight to Pakse, gateway to the easy river living of Si Phan Don. Bus to Vientiane

and on to Vang Vieng then Luang Prabang. Trundle to Nong Khiaw for tribal trek-king. Follow the rugged, revolutionaries’ trail through the Na Meo border, a remote and adventurous crossing to Hanoi.

Work your way through Vietnam, sampling history, culture and beaches. Fly from Ho Chi Minh City to Bangkok and slide down the Malay Peninsula, swimming and diving around Ko Pha-Ngan in the Gulf of Thailand and around Krabi in the Andaman Sea.

Slip into Malaysia for the street eats of Penang. Cross the peninsula for the peaceful beach re-treat of Pulau Perhentian. Pick up the Jungle Railway to Taman Negara, a wilderness preserve. Detour to the mist-shrouded hills of Cameron Highlands and then alight in Kuala Lumpur.

Fly to Jakarta (Java) and immerse yourself in the cultural city of Yogyakarta and the Unesco treasure of Borobudur. Bask on the beach in Bali, escape the beach crowds in Flores, and go dragon-spotting on Komodo. Return to Bali and catch a fl ight to Dili in Timor-Leste, a fl edgling tourist nation.

Alternatively, from Jakarta fl y to Banjarmasin (Kalimantan) for a jungle excursion into Borneo. Catch another fl ight to Pangkalan Bun with connections to the orang-utan research camps of Tanjung Puting National Park.

Fly from Banjarmasin to Pontianak and then bus to the Entikong–Tebedu border to Malaysia’s Kuching, a gateway to more Borneo nature reserves and former head hunting cultures. After a cheap fl ight back to Kuala Lumpur, catch a connection to Yangon (Myan-mar) and its Buddhist temples and isolated people, or to Manila (Philippines) and its Catholic population and volcanic setting. Bus to the mountains of North Luzon, then fl y to Cebu, gateway to the Visayas beaches. If you opt for the Philippines route, you can then hop into East Asia (China or Japan) without having to backtrack.

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