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FORMULIENCE P A L M O I L FREE PolyAquol LW Selective Collateral Matrix

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Page 1: P A L M OI Selective Collateral Matrix - Innovacosinnovacos.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/polyAquol... · OHcreate a O/W emulsion matrix OH OH OH OH OH OH OH HO O HO O O O O O O

FORMULIENCE™

PALM OIL

FREE

PolyAquol™ LW

Selective Collateral Matrix™

Page 2: P A L M OI Selective Collateral Matrix - Innovacosinnovacos.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/polyAquol... · OHcreate a O/W emulsion matrix OH OH OH OH OH OH OH HO O HO O O O O O O

Key features

Our Technology*

Naturally-derived “naturally emulsifying™” – PEG-free – Non-ionic

Perfect for low-energy emulsification

Compatible with “one-pot” emulsions

Ideal for low viscosity lotions and sprayable emulsions

Cold process – Energy saving – Cost&Time effective – Friendly use - allowing the use of ingredients heating sensitive – Environmentally friendly

Bio sustainability – Palm free – Cosmos approved

25ºC

PALM OIL

FREE

Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate

Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate

– Chemical integrity of polyglycerol and fatty acid components

– Know-how in reacting those components and assembling them to create a O/W emulsion matrix

OH OH

OH OH OH OH

OH OHOH OH

HO O

HO O O O O

O O O O O

O

O

OH OH

OH OH OH OH

OH OHOH OH

HO O

HO O O O O

O O O O O

O

O

* patent pending technology

PolyAquol™-LW can be added to the oil phase or in the water phase in a cold-process environment

0

1200

1000

800

600

400

200

PolyAquol™-LWin oil phase

PolyAquol™-LWin water phase

Vis

cosi

ty (c

Ps)

25ºC

Cold processemulsion

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One-pot formulation

PolyAquol™-LW is compatible with “one-pot” emulsion systems where all components are added in one single container

Homogenizer-free emulsification method

80ºC

25ºC25ºC 25ºC

80ºC

PolyAquol™-LW + oil O/W emulsion PolyAquol™-LW + oil Water dilution O/W emulsionCoarse W/Oemulsion

O/Wemulsion

Single step process P.I.T. (Phase Inversion Temperature) process

First stepPrepare oil phase (PolyAquol™-LW + oil) and warm it to 75-80˚C;

Add a small amount of water phase to oil phase, very slowly, under agitation; Cool down to 25˚C under gentle stirring.

Second stepDilute the O/W emulsion concentrate with the

remaining water, under gentle stirring.

No need of homogenizer

5 Oryza Sativa Bran Oil

6 Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil

7 Octyldodecyl Oleate (and) Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Octyldodecanol

8 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

D

9 PreservativeE

Water 1

Glycerin 2

PolyAquol™-LW 3

Xanthan gum 4

A

B

C

A, B and C

D and E

Emulsifying with PolyAquol-LW - Low energy

PolyAquol™-LWin oil phase 25ºC25ºC

PolyAquol™-LWin water phase 25ºC25ºC

PolyAquol™-LW

Cold Process

25ºC

PolyAquol™-LW

Standard cold-process method independently of the phase into which it is added

Page 4: P A L M OI Selective Collateral Matrix - Innovacosinnovacos.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/polyAquol... · OHcreate a O/W emulsion matrix OH OH OH OH OH OH OH HO O HO O O O O O O

Comparison with liquid polyglycerol-based O/W emulsifiers

EmulsifierOil

Phase*Viscosity (cPs)**

Stability(1 month at 50°C)

A Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate, Aqua

5% 10%

1025 Unstable

BPolyglyceryl-3 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Propanediol

n.a. Unstable

C Sorbitan Laurate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Dilauryl Citrate 1200 Unstable

D Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate (commercial 1) 1000 Unstable

E Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate (commercial 2) 1565 Unstable

F PolyAquol™–LW 1000 3Stable

Water Phase: Water, Xanthan Gum, preservative* Oil Phase: Prunus Amigdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Paraffinum Liquidum** Brookfield, RVDV-i Prime, Sp 03, 20 rpm

25ºC

Cold process emulsion

Superior stability

More homogeneous emulsion

Fine particle size distribution

PolyAquol™-LW

Optical microscopy analysis 600x

A

C

D

F

E

Compatibilty with different lipid phases

Vis

cosi

ty (c

Ps)

0

800

600

200

400

1000

1200

1400

Prunus AmigdalusDulcis (SweetAlmond) Oil

Caprylic/CapricTriglyceride

innollient™LO ParaffinumLiquidum

PolyAquol™-LW forms stable emulsions and low viscosity regardless of the lipid phase polarity

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Compatibility with rheological modifiers/thickeners

PolyAquol™-LW is compatible with various synthetic thickeners

Synthetic thickeners

P-LWOil

Phase*Thickener %

Viscosity (cPs)**

Stability(1 month at 50°C)

5% 10%

A Carbomer 0.10 1600 3Stable

BAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

0.10 1080 3Stable

CAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer

0.15 950 3Stable

DAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer

0.30 2500 3Stable

E Sodium Polyacrylate 0.30 2100 3Stable

F Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11 0.30 2500 3Stable

* Oil Phase: Prunus Amigdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Paraffinum Liquidum** Brookfield, RVDV-i Prime, Sp 03, 20 rpm

25ºC

PolyAquol™-LW Thickeners

Vis

cosi

ty (c

Ps)

0

2000

1500

1000

500

2500

3000

A B C D E F

Naturally derived thickeners

P-LWOil

Phase*Thickener %

Viscosity (cPs)**

Stability(1 month at 50°C)

5% 10%

A Dehydroxanthan Gum 0.30 2100 3Stable

B Xanthan Gum 0.50 1000 3Stable

C Sclerotium Gum 0.50 750 3Stable

DMicrocrystalline Cellulose (and) Cellulose Gum

1.20 700 3Stable

E Magnesium Aluminum Silicate 2.00 890 3Stable

F Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate 3.00 820 3Stable

* Oil Phase: Prunus Amigdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Paraffinum Liquidum** Brookfield, RVDV-i Prime, Sp 03, 20 rpm

Vis

cosi

ty (c

Ps)

0

1500

1000

500

2000

2500

A B C D E F

Vis

cosi

ty (c

Ps)

0

1500

1000

500

2000

A B C D

PolyAquol™-LW is compatible with various naturally derived thickeners

A 0.3% Xanthan Gum + 1.0% Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate

B 0.3% Xanthan Gum + 1.2% Microcrystalline Cellulose (and) Cellulose Gum

C 0.3% Xanthan Gum + 0.4% Sclerotium Gum

D 0.5% Xanthan Gum + 1.0% Tapioca Starch

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Formulations with PolyAquol™-LW

Sprayable Body Lotion Reference: TR 52-11-01A

INCI Name % Function

Phase A

Water (Aqua) up to 100.00

Glycerin 3.00 Humectant

Phase B

Sodium Polyacrylate 0.30 Thickener

Phase C

Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate - Poly-Aquol™ LW 3.00 Emulsifier

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil 2.50 Emollient

Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil 2.50 Emollient

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 3.00 Emollient

Octyldodecyl Oleate (and) Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Octyldodecanol - innollient™ LO

2.00 Emollient

Phase D

Preservative a.n. Preservative

Parfum a.n. Parfum

VISCOSITY after 24h Brk, RVDV-I Prime, Sp 03, 20 rpm 1200 - 1800 cps pH (100%) 5.0 - 7.0

Cold process

Low viscosity

Light and fresh texture

25ºC

Cold process emulsion

PolyAquol™-LW

Wet Wipes Lotion Reference: TR 52-14-01

INCI Name % Function

Phase A

Water (Aqua) up to 100.00

Phase A1

Water (Aqua) 20.00

Phase B

Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate - Poly-Aquol™ LW 3.00 Emulsifier

Dicaprylyl Ether 1.00 Emollient

Preservative a.n. Preservative

Phase C

Polysorbate 20 a.n. Solubilizer

Parfum a.n. Parfum

VISCOSITY after 24h Brk, RVDV-I Prime, Sp 03, 20 rpm 200 - 300 cps pH (100%) 5.0 - 7.0

Low energy emulsion

No need for homogenization

Super low viscosity

PolyAquol™-LW

The mentioned formulation has been developed in order to give general directions for the employment of our ingredients. The information set forth here in is furnished free of charge and is based on technical data that we believe to be reliable. We make no warranties and assume no liability in connection with any use of this information.

Page 7: P A L M OI Selective Collateral Matrix - Innovacosinnovacos.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/polyAquol... · OHcreate a O/W emulsion matrix OH OH OH OH OH OH OH HO O HO O O O O O O

PolyAquol™–LWThe selection of highly purified polyglyceryl and fatty acid building blocks coupled to a molecular engineering know-how led to the creation of PolyAquol™-LW (patent pending). The key features of PolyAquol™-LW reside in its ability to form O/W emulsion in a cold-process environment while achieving very low levels of viscosity. It can be incorpo-rated in the water phase or in the oil phase, independently. Those characteristics make PolyAquol™-LW perfectly suited for “one-pot” emulsions and also low-energy process avoiding the use of heat or homogenization. Moreover, its Cosmos status and palm-free origin make it an ideal candidate for green formulations. Thanks to its molecular de-sign, PolyAquol™-LW outperforms other emulsifiers with an apparent similar chemical composition.

Technical information INCI (proposed): Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate

Cold process O/W emulsions

One-pot emulsions

Low energy systems

Recommended use level: 2-5%

Works in a pH range from 3 to 9

Whitish thick liquid

PolyAquol™-LW is compatible with:

– Lipid phase with different chemistry and polarity

– Synthetic and naturally derived thickeners

Applications Skin care

Sprayable lotions

Milks

Wipes

– Baby care

– Cleansing

– Makeup removal

Fabric masks

Sun care

Green emulsions

Background

Formulation

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Innovacos corp.111 Howard Blvd, Suite 160 Mt. Arlington New Jersey 07856

[email protected]

www.innovacos.com

© 2018 by Innovacos corp. All rights reserved Conception and design Symbiose design-graphique

(01/19)