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FORMULIENCE™
PALM OIL
FREE
PolyAquol™ LW
Selective Collateral Matrix™
Key features
Our Technology*
Naturally-derived “naturally emulsifying™” – PEG-free – Non-ionic
Perfect for low-energy emulsification
Compatible with “one-pot” emulsions
Ideal for low viscosity lotions and sprayable emulsions
Cold process – Energy saving – Cost&Time effective – Friendly use - allowing the use of ingredients heating sensitive – Environmentally friendly
Bio sustainability – Palm free – Cosmos approved
25ºC
PALM OIL
FREE
Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate
Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate
– Chemical integrity of polyglycerol and fatty acid components
– Know-how in reacting those components and assembling them to create a O/W emulsion matrix
OH OH
OH OH OH OH
OH OHOH OH
HO O
HO O O O O
O O O O O
O
O
OH OH
OH OH OH OH
OH OHOH OH
HO O
HO O O O O
O O O O O
O
O
* patent pending technology
PolyAquol™-LW can be added to the oil phase or in the water phase in a cold-process environment
0
1200
1000
800
600
400
200
PolyAquol™-LWin oil phase
PolyAquol™-LWin water phase
Vis
cosi
ty (c
Ps)
25ºC
Cold processemulsion
One-pot formulation
PolyAquol™-LW is compatible with “one-pot” emulsion systems where all components are added in one single container
Homogenizer-free emulsification method
80ºC
25ºC25ºC 25ºC
80ºC
PolyAquol™-LW + oil O/W emulsion PolyAquol™-LW + oil Water dilution O/W emulsionCoarse W/Oemulsion
O/Wemulsion
Single step process P.I.T. (Phase Inversion Temperature) process
First stepPrepare oil phase (PolyAquol™-LW + oil) and warm it to 75-80˚C;
Add a small amount of water phase to oil phase, very slowly, under agitation; Cool down to 25˚C under gentle stirring.
Second stepDilute the O/W emulsion concentrate with the
remaining water, under gentle stirring.
No need of homogenizer
5 Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
6 Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil
7 Octyldodecyl Oleate (and) Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Octyldodecanol
8 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
D
9 PreservativeE
Water 1
Glycerin 2
PolyAquol™-LW 3
Xanthan gum 4
A
B
C
A, B and C
D and E
Emulsifying with PolyAquol-LW - Low energy
PolyAquol™-LWin oil phase 25ºC25ºC
PolyAquol™-LWin water phase 25ºC25ºC
PolyAquol™-LW
Cold Process
25ºC
PolyAquol™-LW
Standard cold-process method independently of the phase into which it is added
Comparison with liquid polyglycerol-based O/W emulsifiers
EmulsifierOil
Phase*Viscosity (cPs)**
Stability(1 month at 50°C)
A Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate, Aqua
5% 10%
1025 Unstable
BPolyglyceryl-3 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Propanediol
n.a. Unstable
C Sorbitan Laurate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Dilauryl Citrate 1200 Unstable
D Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate (commercial 1) 1000 Unstable
E Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate (commercial 2) 1565 Unstable
F PolyAquol™–LW 1000 3Stable
Water Phase: Water, Xanthan Gum, preservative* Oil Phase: Prunus Amigdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Paraffinum Liquidum** Brookfield, RVDV-i Prime, Sp 03, 20 rpm
25ºC
Cold process emulsion
Superior stability
More homogeneous emulsion
Fine particle size distribution
PolyAquol™-LW
Optical microscopy analysis 600x
A
C
D
F
E
Compatibilty with different lipid phases
Vis
cosi
ty (c
Ps)
0
800
600
200
400
1000
1200
1400
Prunus AmigdalusDulcis (SweetAlmond) Oil
Caprylic/CapricTriglyceride
innollient™LO ParaffinumLiquidum
PolyAquol™-LW forms stable emulsions and low viscosity regardless of the lipid phase polarity
Compatibility with rheological modifiers/thickeners
PolyAquol™-LW is compatible with various synthetic thickeners
Synthetic thickeners
P-LWOil
Phase*Thickener %
Viscosity (cPs)**
Stability(1 month at 50°C)
5% 10%
A Carbomer 0.10 1600 3Stable
BAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
0.10 1080 3Stable
CAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
0.15 950 3Stable
DAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
0.30 2500 3Stable
E Sodium Polyacrylate 0.30 2100 3Stable
F Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11 0.30 2500 3Stable
* Oil Phase: Prunus Amigdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Paraffinum Liquidum** Brookfield, RVDV-i Prime, Sp 03, 20 rpm
25ºC
PolyAquol™-LW Thickeners
Vis
cosi
ty (c
Ps)
0
2000
1500
1000
500
2500
3000
A B C D E F
Naturally derived thickeners
P-LWOil
Phase*Thickener %
Viscosity (cPs)**
Stability(1 month at 50°C)
5% 10%
A Dehydroxanthan Gum 0.30 2100 3Stable
B Xanthan Gum 0.50 1000 3Stable
C Sclerotium Gum 0.50 750 3Stable
DMicrocrystalline Cellulose (and) Cellulose Gum
1.20 700 3Stable
E Magnesium Aluminum Silicate 2.00 890 3Stable
F Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate 3.00 820 3Stable
* Oil Phase: Prunus Amigdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Paraffinum Liquidum** Brookfield, RVDV-i Prime, Sp 03, 20 rpm
Vis
cosi
ty (c
Ps)
0
1500
1000
500
2000
2500
A B C D E F
Vis
cosi
ty (c
Ps)
0
1500
1000
500
2000
A B C D
PolyAquol™-LW is compatible with various naturally derived thickeners
A 0.3% Xanthan Gum + 1.0% Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
B 0.3% Xanthan Gum + 1.2% Microcrystalline Cellulose (and) Cellulose Gum
C 0.3% Xanthan Gum + 0.4% Sclerotium Gum
D 0.5% Xanthan Gum + 1.0% Tapioca Starch
Formulations with PolyAquol™-LW
Sprayable Body Lotion Reference: TR 52-11-01A
INCI Name % Function
Phase A
Water (Aqua) up to 100.00
Glycerin 3.00 Humectant
Phase B
Sodium Polyacrylate 0.30 Thickener
Phase C
Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate - Poly-Aquol™ LW 3.00 Emulsifier
Oryza Sativa Bran Oil 2.50 Emollient
Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil 2.50 Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 3.00 Emollient
Octyldodecyl Oleate (and) Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Octyldodecanol - innollient™ LO
2.00 Emollient
Phase D
Preservative a.n. Preservative
Parfum a.n. Parfum
VISCOSITY after 24h Brk, RVDV-I Prime, Sp 03, 20 rpm 1200 - 1800 cps pH (100%) 5.0 - 7.0
Cold process
Low viscosity
Light and fresh texture
25ºC
Cold process emulsion
PolyAquol™-LW
Wet Wipes Lotion Reference: TR 52-14-01
INCI Name % Function
Phase A
Water (Aqua) up to 100.00
Phase A1
Water (Aqua) 20.00
Phase B
Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate - Poly-Aquol™ LW 3.00 Emulsifier
Dicaprylyl Ether 1.00 Emollient
Preservative a.n. Preservative
Phase C
Polysorbate 20 a.n. Solubilizer
Parfum a.n. Parfum
VISCOSITY after 24h Brk, RVDV-I Prime, Sp 03, 20 rpm 200 - 300 cps pH (100%) 5.0 - 7.0
Low energy emulsion
No need for homogenization
Super low viscosity
PolyAquol™-LW
The mentioned formulation has been developed in order to give general directions for the employment of our ingredients. The information set forth here in is furnished free of charge and is based on technical data that we believe to be reliable. We make no warranties and assume no liability in connection with any use of this information.
PolyAquol™–LWThe selection of highly purified polyglyceryl and fatty acid building blocks coupled to a molecular engineering know-how led to the creation of PolyAquol™-LW (patent pending). The key features of PolyAquol™-LW reside in its ability to form O/W emulsion in a cold-process environment while achieving very low levels of viscosity. It can be incorpo-rated in the water phase or in the oil phase, independently. Those characteristics make PolyAquol™-LW perfectly suited for “one-pot” emulsions and also low-energy process avoiding the use of heat or homogenization. Moreover, its Cosmos status and palm-free origin make it an ideal candidate for green formulations. Thanks to its molecular de-sign, PolyAquol™-LW outperforms other emulsifiers with an apparent similar chemical composition.
Technical information INCI (proposed): Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate
Cold process O/W emulsions
One-pot emulsions
Low energy systems
Recommended use level: 2-5%
Works in a pH range from 3 to 9
Whitish thick liquid
PolyAquol™-LW is compatible with:
– Lipid phase with different chemistry and polarity
– Synthetic and naturally derived thickeners
Applications Skin care
Sprayable lotions
Milks
Wipes
– Baby care
– Cleansing
– Makeup removal
Fabric masks
Sun care
Green emulsions
Background
Formulation
Innovacos corp.111 Howard Blvd, Suite 160 Mt. Arlington New Jersey 07856
www.innovacos.com
© 2018 by Innovacos corp. All rights reserved Conception and design Symbiose design-graphique
(01/19)