Overview of Indian Garment Industry

Written by: Abhishek Sinha Page 1

1. Overview of Indian Garment Industry

Gone are the days when big department stores such as Wal-Mart, Sears and JC Penny used to

stock Indian and Chinese garments. This is slowly changing. While the Chinese invasion is

continuing, Bangladesh which has overtaken India is extending the lead and Vietnam is all set to

overtake India in garment exports, once monopolized by India.

Garment exports from India dropped 2.64 per cent to $ 10.64 billion in 2009-10 compared to

$10.93 billion in the previous financial year, according to the latest data released by the Apparel

Export Promotion Council (AEPC).

“The first two months of the current financial year have shown 5.23 per cent decrease in rupee

terms, as compared to the previous year. Exports of apparel are highly price sensitive... Indian

garments are overpriced due to high input costs and duty and they are being priced out by

countries like Bangladesh and Vietnam.

Bangladesh, which is only half the size of Maharashtra, today exports almost $13 billion apparel.

This is roughly 20 per cent more than Indian garment exports.

The unprecedented rise in price of raw materials (cotton & yarn) over the past few months and

also general increase in all other costs due to hike in duty of petroleum products has made Indian

garments uncompetitive in the world market.

“While our exports are falling, exports from low-cost countries such as Bangladesh, Vietnam and

Cambodia continue to rise. The slowdown in the global economy has hit our garment exports.

Exports to Europe which was facing a debt crisis have fallen. The US market is still fragile.

The textile and garment sectors play an extremely significant role in India in terms specially of

share in value added, foreign exchange earnings, and employment. With the impending

dismantling of quotas in 2004 under mandate from the Agreement in Textile and Clothing of the

WTO, the focus has clearly shifted to the future of the Indian textile and clothing exports.

2. Overview of Garment Manufacturing Technology

2.1 Introduction

India being a garment exporting country, most of the garment manufacturing companies here

work as exporters. Hence the orders they receive are from overseas buyers. The buyers send

either a sample of the garment or a Tech Pack (Technical package) along with Spec

Sheet(Specification Sheet) of the garment which contains flat sketch of the garment along with

measurements of various parts, fabric details, trims details, stitching instructions, print and/or

embroidery instructions and finishing instructions. Manufacturers work according to the tech

pack and mass produce the garments.


2.2 Flow process chart of Garment Manufacturing

Design Development or Tech Pack from buyer

Pattern Making

Sampling

Sample Approval

Fabric & Trims Sourcing

Spreading and Cutting

Sorting and Bundling

Sewing

Washing and Finishing

Pressing

Packaging and labelling

Exports or Domestic Market


a. Design Development or Tech pack received from buyer

The tech pack or sampling package is received from the buyer or the design development team in

case of a domestic manufacturer. According to the design, prototype (a sample resembling the

actual sample sent by the buyer, not necessarily on the same fabric) is developed by the sampling

department. The Fabric Swatches are attached to the Spec. sheet provided by the buyer and the

Component Details like accessories, trims, print, color, embroidery, embellishments are given.

SAMPLING PACKAGE FROM BUYER

PROTOTYPE SAMPLE SENT TO BUYER

COMMENTS/APPROVAL FROM BUYER

PRODUCTION QTY (ON RECEIPT OF PP SAMPLE APPROVAL)

BUYER OFFICE

GOODS RECEIVED ON IMPORTER OFFICE

GOODS EXPORT FROM DOMESTIC

PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLE

RE-ORDER FROM BUYER

SALESMEN SAMPLES

INITIAL ORDER

APPROVAL SAMPLE

FIT/SIZE SET SAMPLE

NOT APPROVED APPROVED


In case of a designing team, a design is developed by the designer after studying the fashion

forecasts of the seasons to come in the future.

b. Pattern Making

Design and related product development is an important focus area for a company‟s growth.

Their strategy is to focus on the development of new designs and samples for their fabrics and

garments. This activity is supported by their in-house design studio which is equipped with

design capabilities including software like CAD/CAM, thus enabling them to successfully

convert their designs into fabrics and samples into final products. Improved ability to create

samples helps the customers in placing orders well in advance of a particular season. They plan

to strengthen our capabilities in designing by continuously upgrading our design studios both in

terms of human resources and technology. They plan to tap the hi-end readymade garment

segment which will help us in maintaining higher sales realization for their final products.

A Pattern is the replica of a garment. It consists of the parts which are required for the assembly

of a garment. For example, a shirt will have patterns for Left front, right front, yoke, back,

sleeves, cuffs and collars. A pattern is made according to a size chart which is different for

different countries for example, S, M, L, XL, XXL or Size 8, 10, 12, 14, 16. Then seam

allowances are added to the pattern. Ease is also added at the time of pattern making. Some

companies also add Fabric shrinkage allowance to the pattern. Even Production gathering

allowance can be added to a pattern.

The fit of the garment depends on the correctness of the patterns.

The patterns for production are made by pattern masters and the CAD system is also used for

making and grading the patterns. From the computer markers, refinements are made manually to

optimize the fabric consumption and then duplicate markers are made. The software used for

Pattern Grading are Gerber, Lectra, Optitex, Tukatech etc. The patterns may also be made

manually and graded on. A digitizer and a plotter may be used along with the software for input

and output. Manually made patterns were scanned through the digitizer onto the software which

are then graded and then printed through the plotter.

After the patterns have been prepared, a virtual arrangement of patterns is done exactly

resembling the arrangement on the fabric which is called here marker planning. A Marker is the

top ply of a fabric which contains the marked patterns by some marking method(tailor‟s chalk,

soap, printed etc.)

Although most of the times, the marker planning is provided by the buyers but sometimes with

rearrangement of the patterns, more marker efficiency is achieved subject to approval from the

buyer.


An example of a marker planning done by a CAD system is shown below.

c. Sampling

Specification sheets received from the buyer show the Sample Requisition and the Sample

Description. The Fabric Swatches are attached to the Spec. sheet and the Component Details like

accessories, trims, print, color, embroidery, embellishments are given. A sample is made

according to the specifications for the placed order and when the buyer approves the Sample,

bulk production starts for the order. The Sample Approval Form contains details of general

appearance, whether the sample has been accepted or rejected, date and signature of the

merchandiser.

In the initial stages of the order, the design and sampling department continuously interacts with

the buyers till the sample is approved. In the dedicated sampling unit, garment samples are made,

remade, design changes are incorporated till the customer finally approves the garment sample.

The stages of sampling followed for the fulfillment of buyer‟s requirement are as follows:

Proto Sample Fit/Size Set Sample

Salesman Sample Pre-production Sample

Test Sample Production Sample

Photo-shoot Sample


d. Sample Approval

The samples are prepared for approval from the buyer. The buyer either accepts or rejects

the sample or he may give comments on the sample which need to be corrected. One such

comment is given as follows:

Style No. 80646001

Style Description: Men‟s Long Sleeve Shirt

Comment Date: 28.07.2011

a. All labels are missing on your sample.

b. Snap button on front is also missing on your sample.

c. Puckering at collar attaching

d. Cuff attaching found uneven & poorly attached

e. Poor pocket shape at curves

f. Roping at bottom hem in collar white

g. Loose thread stitch at front placket bottom

h. Front placket is hiking at bottom

i. Puckering at armhole. Topstitch to be avoided in bulk

j. Sleeve placket length found uneven in Olive color

k. Uneven collar point in your sample color Brown

l. Shade variations to be avoided in solid colors or bulk

m. Measurement at chest: 2-2.5 cm, waist: 1.5 cm. sleeve: 1 cm. cuff: 0.5 cm.

n. Pocket position found uneven in your entire sample

Thus the sampling department has to rework on the samples, if the sample has got comments. If

the manufacturer is unable to make perfect samples, it may result in rejection and cancellation of

the order.


e. Fabric & Trims Sourcing

Fabric & Trims sourcing is the job of fabric sourcing department and a separate trims sourcing

department.

First, the consumption of Fabric is worked out then the requirement is calculated. The requisition

is sent to the concerned supplier with the fabric sample. The supplier presents the maximum

number of swatches matching the required design and color. It is analyzed and if it matches, it is

passed. The fabric is sourced at the time of sampling itself. The strategies for the local sourcing

are to get the best quality at a comparative price while also maintaining the quality and to satisfy

the buyer‟s requirements. The price will also depend on the buyer‟s Selling price. Then the fabric

is inspected for quality and shade. A visual inspection gives and overall idea of the quality of the

fabric, for colorfastness and strength (Bursting, Tearing and Tensile strength), it is tested in

testing labs. A 4-point/10-point Grade System is followed for testing the quality.

When the fabric is in-house, it undergoes mainly two tests, namely Shrinkage Test & Color

Fastness. While other fabric defects are also taken care of with the help of fabric checking

machine where visual inspection of the fabric is done and defective parts are marked with

stickers.

The following procedure may be commonly followed for recording the fabric

shrinkage:

Fabric check 100% shrinkage

Cut 60cm fabric and should be mark 50cm in both warp and weft properly

Do single needle stitches for all sides

Use metal scale for marking

Mention the roll no. properly

Check the type of wash

Check the time of wash

Check the wash standard of sealer


Send washed blanket (Approved by merchant)

Along with sample for wash standard

Explain the washing person clearly to wash as per bulk wash

After blanket wash one iron (if required) as per garment standard

Check carefully (give importance for 1mm. also)

Calculate shrinkage and discuss with merchandiser

Keep the rolls shrinkage wise and issue to cutting with paper shrinkage identification sticker

Thus the fabric rolls are sorted shrinkage wise and labeled as A, B, C, D, E, F etc.

When patterns are made for such fabrics which are going to shrink after washing, extra

allowance is given to the patterns in both warp and weft direction. Otherwise Shrinkage Nil is

written on the patterns i.e. no allowance is given for shrinkage.

Fabric Inspection Machine

For identifying the fabric defects, a continuous fabric inspection machine is used. It is an

economical inspection machine, which is completely made of Mild Steel with digital control

panel. The specially designed fabric roll stand is provided to load the fabric to be checked. The

bottom illumination unit is covered with milky white acrylic, which acts as a viewing area. The

top illumination unit is incorporated for proper inspection. Specially designed tray is provided to

keep loose fabric for inspection. The exclusive feature of the machine is that it can be operated

by foot switch. A mechanical length counter is provided to measure the length of fabric

inspected. The control panel is equipped with speed regulator, Forward & Reverse movement

switch.


Details of the Main Unit of a Fabric Inspection Machine

1. Top illumination Unit.

2. Driven Roller.

3. Fabric rolling rod.

4. Fabric Guide Roll.

5. Twin Wheeled Counter (Fabric Length Counter).

6. Fabric Tension Device.

7. Base Unit Frame.

8. Bottom Roller Roll Stand.

9. Foot Switch.

10. Control Panel

11. Viewing Area.

12. Plastic Pipe. (Having steel pipe inside) to roll the fabric.


The fabric defects which may be identified are as follows:

1. Starting Marks

2. Snarls

3. Broken End

4. Broken Pick

5. Weft Crack

6. Printing Variation

7. Pattern Mistake

8. Starting Pick

9. Breakage

10. Oil Stains

11. Color Stains

12. Temple Mark

13. Dobby

14. Double Pick

15. Loose Wefts

16. Water Draping

17. Water mark

18. Stitches

Color Matching Cabinet

For identifying the difference in shade of the fabric

from the same fabric roll, a color matching cabinet was

used. For printed fabrics, sometimes, the shade from

the face side is not clearly identifiable so the shade was

matched from the back side of the fabric.

The following lighting standards are used according to

the instruction of the buyer:

D 65 - Artificial daylight - 2 Nos.

TL 84 Light - Point of Sale - 1 No.

TFL – Tubular Filament Light – 1 No.

UVB Light - Ultra Violet Blue- 1 No.

CWF Light - Cool White Florescent - 1 No.

After the shade of the fabric is differentiated, it is sorted shade wise and marked as A, B, C, D, E,

F and so on.

Trims Sourcing

To source the trims is the responsibility of a separate trims sourcing department. Buttons,

zippers, linings, snaps, fusing, sewing thread, embroidery thread come under this category. They

are also sourced as per the requirement of the buyer.


f. Spreading and Cutting

Spreading

Spreading and Marker Making parameters are basically the important functions and check points

need to be considered during spreading and marker making process in cutting room. The

spreading is done manually with the help of sticks to straighten the plies and an edge cutter is

used to match the edges. The table used for spreading is approximately 6 – 8 m. long and its

width is between 1.6 – 2.0 m. the table height varies between 35” – 40”. The table tops are

generally made of sun mica or any other smooth surface. Papers are fixed before spreading the

fabric to avoid slippage during cutting.

Spreading Parameters

1. Spreading table surface should be smooth enough to facilitate movement of cutting machine

2. Cutting table should have height adjustments so that you can adjust the table modules

according to slope in the floor.

3. Before spreading fabric rolls should be segregated based on the colour shade and fabric width

4. Based on the fabric classification, decide the spreading mode.

5. Based on the fabric type, marker length and end cutting equipment, you have to determine the

end loss, which will determine the lay length. Total ply length is marked on the table before start

of laying.

6. Fabric ply tension has to be correct, it should neither be too tight nor too loose.

7. Fabric should be correctly checked before it come on the spreading table.

8. Spreading height should be compatible to the cutting machine blade.

9. Ensure that the layer ends are as even as possible.

10. In between different rolls put indication flag to identify different rolls.

11. Lay lot planning to optimize cutting cost

12. For dimensionally unstable flimsy fabrics a layer of marker paper should be laid before

putting the first ply. During laying the first ply, either all the sides or some portions are stuck to

the table using tapes so that the first layer does not slip. During cutting the tapes are taken out.

13. Always one side of the selvage has to be aligned (all selvages have to be one or top of each

other)


14. End pieces should be marked with lay no. and stored for changing any rejected component of

the garment in subsequent process.

15. Use paper in between plies at regular intervals to reduce interply slippage

16. Bigger the roll length lesser the wastage. While using spreading machine bigger the roll

length, lesser the machine idle time.

17. While using splicing technique, please ensure that number of plies at both end of the lay is

equal.

18. For horizontal stripe in knitted fabric open width marker making should be preferred.

19. For fabrics with high twisted yarn tearing is preferred than end cutting during laying.

The spreading can be done manually or with the help of an automatic spreader.

Automatic spreaders are used for fast and even spreading of the fabric.

Advantages:

The automatic spreader provides predictable, tension-free spreading of fabric.

Provides accurate and consistent spread length.

Accurately aligns fabric edges so that parts can be nested closer to the beginning, end and

edges of the spread, eliminating end loss and optimizing material utilization.

Fabric roll cradle feed system tilts automatically for easy material loading and unloading.

Supports most common spreading modes.

Capable of spreading woven or knit materials from either rolls or folded packs.


Cutting

The objective of cutting

The objective of cutting is to separate fabric parts as replicas of the pattern pieces in the marker

plan. In achieving this objective, certain requirements must be fulfilled:

Precision of cut

Garments cannot be assembled satisfactorily, and they may not fit the body correctly, if they

have not been cut accurately to the pattern shape. The ease with which accuracy is achieved

depends on the method of cutting employed and in some cases on the marker planning and

marker making.

For precision cutting of parts like cuffs and collars

1. Place the required component bunch on the band knife table and remove the clips if put.

2. Check the cad marker for style and size details.

3. Place the respective pattern as per the cad marker over the bunch, as per the line balancing

and matching requirements.

4. Fix the pattern to the bunch using the metal clamps.

5. Cut the component along the pattern.

6. Remove the metal clamp and pattern.

Clean edges

The raw edge of the fabric should not show fraying or snagging. Such effects come from an

imperfectly sharpened knife. It is possible for the knife blade to heat up sufficiently to damage

the fabric.

Support of the lay

The cutting system must provide the means not only to support the fabric but also to allow the

blade of a cutting machine to penetrate the lowest ply of a spread and sewer all the fibers.

Consistent cutting

The cutting system will cut lays up to a specified height, but this may need to be reduced as a

response to deteriorating cutting quality. There may be mechanical or human reasons.


To make fabric lay of required marker length ready for cut.

1. Ensure all rolls have the roll no and if required are sorted shade wise

2. Verifying correctness of marker and then spread the lay paper equal to marker length and

then stable it

3. Spread the fabric according to marker length and cut- off.

4. When next roll starts place lay paper above ply. (Done when roll to roll shade variation

other wise not)

5. After required quantity is laid spread the CAD/ Manual marker over the lay and pin the

same.

Cutting Equipments:

1. Hand shears

Hand shears can be used to cut from single or double ply up to a maximum of 10 plies. The

lower blade of the shears passes under the plies but the subsequent distortion of fabric is only

temporary and accuracy can be achieved with practice. Left-handed shears are also available for

left-handed persons. The disadvantage of this method lies in the time it consumes and the

consequent high labor cost but it is appropriate for made-to-

measure garments.

2. Straight Knife cutting machine

The line of straight knife machines cut denim or silk, cotton or

knits, sailcloth or synthetics, fiberglass and technical textiles,

easily and without effort.

Most cutting rooms which have sufficient garments in bulk

but not such as to justify the use of computer-controlled

cutters will have straight knives.

The straight knife consists of a base plate, on which four

rollers are fitted which can glide easily on the glazed paper

fixed on the base of the cutting table below the bottom ply.

They require operator power as well as machine power to cut

the lay. The operator can move the machine with the help of

the handle provided below the motor while the motor gives

reciprocating action to the blade and drives the knife through

the lay.


A low profile, polished, streamlined base plate is designed to reduce friction and distortion in the

lay regardless of the number of plies.

They are designed to provide optimal performance whether cutting intricate jobs with small

radius cuts or patterns that have long, clean cuts.

Some exclusive Micro Fog machines ensure maximum heat reduction for cutting highly fusible

materials. The Micro Fog device sends a mist of coolant / lubricant behind the knife and out

through a specially slotted knife-slide to penetrate every layer or material and to eliminate the

conditions that cause fusing. The Micro Fog straight knife requires 90-120 psi (6.2-8.3 bars)

compressed air.

Some machines have heat reducing features (short stroke and wave blade that reduce blade

contact by 80%).

• Some have special gravity feed moistening attachment to eliminate fusing.

• Coolant flow exactly metered to achieve the desired degree of lubrication and cooling required.

The blades of the straight knife are made of carbon steel, coated with Teflon, have wavy edges,

rounded or angled tip. The blade height varies from 4 inches to 13 inches. Their stroke varies

from 1 inch to 1 ½ inch. There is a sharpening mechanism for blades which uses either an emery

belt or emery stone for sharpening.

Their weight is in the range of 12-18 kgs. The power of the machine varies from model to model

from 0.55 hp to 1.25 hp. The greater the blade movement, the faster the operator can cut the

fabric and move the machine through the lay rapidly.

There are some straight knives with automated arm support. It has a travelling suspension system

which supports the knife from above which means the

heavy base plate and rollers are replaced by a small, flat

base. The drive trolley of the support arm moves

automatically along rails on the side of the table. These

systems enable a much higher degree of cutting

accuracy than unsupported straight knives.

3. Round Knife

Round knife machines are ideally suited for cutting

large radius curves, straight lines and are applicable for

a wide range of difficult to cut materials. The smallest

model, provides lightweight maneuverability with

power to cut low lays of wool, cotton, silk, synthetics,


and technical textiles.

The elements of round knife are same as straight knife, the only difference in blade which is

octagonal or circular here which may have a diameter between 2 to 8 inches. The Vertical

Cutting Stroke Velocity (VCSV) of round knife can be compared with straight knives.

The Heavy Duty machine offers a heavy duty motor to provide increased torque and blade speed

making it ideal for most general purpose cutting of canvas, burlap, cotton, cotton batting,

woolens, and knits.

The Heavy Duty and Super Duty round knife machines can easily cut through high durometer

rubber as well as plastic sheeting and dense fabrics that require a more powerful motor and

greater height capacity. Each of these special Cardinal round knife machines may be supplied

with a high speed, low speed, or dual speed motor for the broadest range of applications. Both

models may be fitted with an optional Plastic Master lubricator.

The blades of the round knife are made of carbon steel, Teflon coated, slotted and grooved. The

speed of the motor varies from 1500 rpm to 3000 rpm while they consume a power between 0.20

hp to 1.25 hp. The sharpener stone grits are 120 heavy, 150 medium or 220 fine.

The blade size and the respective cutting capacity can be understood with the help of the

following table:

Blade Size Cutting Capacity

4 inch 2.125 inch

5.25 inch 3.125 inch

6 inch 3.25 inch

Their weight varies from 7 kgs. to 16 kgs.

4. Band Knife

A band knife machine comprises a series of three or more pulleys, powered by an electric motor,

with a continuously rotating steel blade mounted on them. One edge of the blade is sharpened.

The blade of the band knife passes through a slot in the table in a fixed position and the section

of the lay to be cut is moved past it. The material is moved onto the blade instead of the blade

moved onto the material.


Band knives are used when a higher standard of cutting accuracy is required. Space must be left

around garment parts when planning the marker so that they can be sectioned out using a straight

knife and then cut exactly using the band knife. When small parts such as cuffs, collars and

pockets are to be cut, a template of metal or fibre in the shape of the pattern piece may be

clamped to the section of lay on top of the marker which is then drawn past the band knife,

cutting exactly along the hard edge. A band knife workplace may be so arranged that the

operator either pushes or pulls the section of lay towards the knife. The latter is most common in

Britain.

The band knife runs absolutely vibration free and delivers very good cutting quality. Adjustable

band-knife speed by frequency control allows optimal adaption of the band knife speed to the

materials and ply height being cut, while operating at a very low noise level.

The band knife has an air-floatation table which has small rollers placed onto it which give ease

of movement to the material being cut and also suck the material slightly with high pressure to

achieve minimum distortion while cutting.

The quality and quantity of cutting with a band-knife machine depends directly upon the operator

stress level.

Here are some of its highlights:

- Vibration free

- Silent operation through optimal noise reduction

- Outstanding cutting performance through constant knife sharpness by precision sharpening


device

- Excellent cutting quality

- Highest reliability

- Easy handling of heavy ply stacks through air cushion table

Some features:

• Automatically set band knife guard.

• Automatic band knife tension

• Warning light indicates band knife running.

• Automatic safety stop for band knife breakage.

• All panels are safety switch protected.

• Dove-tail guided band knife sharpening unit.

• Band knife blade made of high grade steel.

• Upper and lower guide bearings.

• Casters.

*For very soft materials, max. cutting height (table-shield) is 28 cm (11”).

Thus band knives are used more in menswear than in womenswear and are often used to cut

large garment parts such as large panels of jackets and coats.

As seen in the above picture, it has an optional air blowing table with 6 cm wood made air

chamber and 160 valves. Turbine pressure is 1/3 CV. Adjustable speed from 400 to 2000 rpm,

allows cutting all types of fabrics. Knife wheels diameter 39 cm, 3 cm wide. It gives stronger

contact between wheel-blade, having plus stability and strength while cutting process, and

avoiding the slippery surface if working with silicon. It has Built-in sharpener visible for the

operator.

5. Rotary Shears or Small Round Knives

They are same as round knife machines but the lightweight rotary shears are the best solution for

cutting intricate markers, one-of-a-kind patterns, samples, reworks, and plastic or rubber

sheeting. Offering the ultimate in maneuverability, rotary shears are the answer for short run

cutting jobs common in the industry.


Small round knife machines set the standard for the cutting industry by providing agility, power,

and versatility. Each small round knife has a low profile baseplate which allows for virtually no

distortion when cutting through low lays, or single thickness,

of material.

• 2 ¼” (5.72 cm) round blade for general use or hexagon

blade for sheer or difficult to cut cloth.

• Cutting capacity is 25% greater than competitive models.

• Built-in sharpener.

• Ergonomically designed

• Three different base plates and cutting tips can be selected:

- Stabilizer Shoe: the “standard” foot attachment, a utility feature that lends itself well to all

cutting and slitting operations.

- Ball Tip: best when slitting tubular knits or other loosely woven materials.

- Baseplate: a small baseplate fitted with needle rollers to create a lightweight, freestanding

rotary shear; provides the greatest degree of

accuracy from top to bottom ply.

6. End Cutters

End cutters are used to cut the end of every

lay spread on the table for starting a new end

of the fabric. They provide fast and perfectly

straight end cutting as a requirement of

marker planning.

They may have features like:

They give superior balance and effortless cutting features:

• Perma-Field Motor for more cutting torque with less heat build-up.

• Precision engineered profile and interior reinforcing ribs keeps track rigid even at lengths over

72”.

• Clamping bracket allows the machine to be attached to any type of cutting table in seconds.


• Standard 40” (1.02m) length handle for use on tables up to 72” (1.83m) wide, with longer

handles available.

• Other handle options include a push handle, a dual push/pull handle for extremely wide cuts

requiring more than one operator, and a swivel handle for limited space applications.

• Patented Uni-Safe Terminal Block and Attachment Plug allows the operator to engage the

power supply to the cutter with one hand.

Some computerized end cutters also provide:

• Cutting head traverses via servo-controlled gear motor.

• Simplified controls for ease of operator interface.

• Ply counter and variable traverse speed control.

• 4” (10.2 cm) round blade with up to 1-¼” (3.20 cm) cutting capacity.

• Remote control.

• Compression pressure foot ensures a clean cut for both heavy

and soft materials.

7. Cloth Drills

The cloth drill marker can drill holes through various layers of

fabric indicating button holes, darts, pockets, and other

attachment points. This is perfect for use on loosely knit, bulky,

or quilted spreads, where a mark is needed, but where a burn

mark would be unnecessary. On many fabrics, the drill is used

cold and the hole remains visible until the sewing operator comes

to use it. On looser weave fabrics, where the hole may be close

up, a hot drill is used.

The cold drill machine features may be as follows:

• Telescoping drive shaft and powerful AC motor for

dependability and long service.

• Drill is available in three sizes, numerous hole diameters, and

drill types.

• Decreased distortion, even on bulky and quilted spreads, provided by the large square

baseplate.


A spirit level to ensure that the base plate is horizontal and hence the drill vertical.

The Hot Cloth drill leaves identifiable marks on loosely woven or knit fabrics, where an

ordinary drill mark would not be detected. The cloth drill fuses tightly woven synthetic materials,

throughout the lay, thereby eliminating distortion in the marker.

Along with the following additional features:

• Telescoping drive shaft with a powerful AC motor for dependability and long service life.

• Drill available in three sizes, with numerous hole diameters, and drill types.

A hypodermic drill may also be used which leaves a small deposit on each ply of fabric.

The drill diameter can be from 1.19 mm to 9.52 mm. The drilling capacity can be from 6 inch to

11.5 inch. The drill tips are available as diamond point or taper point with open end awl or closed

awl.

8. Thread markers

It provides a substitute method of short-term marking when a

permanent mark is not desired, and for bundling cut pieces. Utilizing a

needle, a thread is pulled through the material which allows the

operator to determine where to place pleats, darts, buttons, or pockets.

The Threadmarker can also be used to bundle continuous toweling or

bundles of clothes by binding them with thread prior to washing.

• Ensures matched pairs by eliminating loose cut patterns of varying

sizes.

• Secures toweling, by preventing separation and tangling during the laundering process.

• Marking capacity of 6” (15.2 cm) with simple looper mechanism for ease of operation.

9. Automatic Cutters (Computer-controlled cutting machines)

The information stored in the computer to drive a cutting knife is mentioned. This method

provides the rnost accurate possible cutting, at high speed, and to keep the larger systems fully

occupied they are used frequently in a central cutting facility that supplies a number of separate

sewing factories.


Increasingly, though, smaller, cheaper systems are being developed which are suitable for

companies wanting to cut lower lays of smaller quantities of garments and these are appropriate

for a single-factory operation. The main elements of a computer-controlled cutting system are as

shown in the above Figure. A typical computer cutting system has a table with a cutting surface

consisting of nylon bristles, which support the fabric lays but are flexible enough to permit

penetration and movement of the knife blade which is supported only at the top. The bristles also

allow the passage of air through the table to create a vacuum, reducing the height of the lay and

holding it in place. The carriage supporting the cutting head has two synchronized servo-motors

which drive it on tracks on the edges of the table. A third servo-motor positions the cutting head

on a beam across the width of this carriage. These two movements are co-ordinated to give a

knife position at any point on the table. The cutting head contains a knife, automatic sharpener

and a further servo-motor which rotates the knife to position it at a tangent to the line of cut on

curves. A further facility controls the deflection of the knife which inevitably occurs on curves

by adjusting the angle to equalize the pressure on each side of the blade. This ensures accurate

cutting through all layers. A sheet of airtight polyethylene covers the top of the lay which assists

the creation of a vacuum and allows significant compression of the lay. A control cabinet houses

the computer and the electrical components required to drive the cutter, its carriage and the


vacuum motor. Since the computer-controlled knife cuts according to instructions from the

computer rather than by following a pattern line drawn on a marker, it is possible, as indicated

previously, to dispense with the use of fully plotted paper markers and either just plot the

information necessary for bundling on the marker, or eliminate the marker completely and just

label the garment parts that are being cut.

10. Die cutting

In contrast to the fast-moving blades used in the methods of cutting previously described, die

cutting involves pressing a rigid blade through the lay of fabric. The die (called a clicker in the

shoe industry) is a knife in the shape of a pattern periphery, including notches. One or more tie

bars secure its stability. Free standing dies generally fall into two categories. They can be made

of strip steel, manufactured by bending the strip to the shape required and welding the joint.

These cannot be sharpened and must be replaced when worn. Alternatively, they can be heavier

gauge, forged dies that can be re-sharpened but which are about five times the price of strip steel.

The position of the tie bars determines the depth of cut, which is generally greater with forged

dies.

11. Laser Cutting

A laser produces a beam of light that can be focused into a very small spot (0.25 mm), producing

a very high energy density and a rapid, localized increase in temperature. Cutting takes place by

burning, melting and vaporization. A laser beam does not become blunt and need renewing, but

it does suffer from limited depth of focus. This limits the depth of fabric it can cut and the best

results are achieved when cutting single plies. There is also a risk with thermoplastic fibres that

the edges may fuse together. The system includes a stationary gas laser, a cutting head carrying a

system of mirrors which reflect the laser beam to the cutting line, a computer which operates the

entire system, and a means of removing cut parts from the conveyor carrying the single ply of

fabric. A practical limitation on the speed of cutting is the speed of movement of the carriage

bearing the mirrors. Lasers are not common for cutting garments, but they have been used

successfully in home furnishings and in the cutting of sails (where edge fusing is actually

desirable).

12. Plasma cutting

Plasma cutting was originally developed to satisfy a demand for high quality cutting on stainless

steels and aluminium, but it can also be used to cut textile materials. Cutting is achieved by

means of a high velocity jet of high temperature ionized gas (argon). This method has the

potential to become the faster cutter of single plies, but there are engineering and cost issues, and

the method is affected by the same quality of cut problems as was noted for laser cutting.


13. Water jet cutting

A very high velocity, small diameter stream of water is created by applying high pressure water

to a nozzle. The high pressure jet acts as a solid tool when it encounters the material to be cut,

tearing the fibres on impact. As the jet penetrates successive plies in a spread, the momentum

decreases and cutting ability is reduced. The jet spreads out and the cut is wider and rougher at

the bottom of the spread. Here the jet of water is normally caught and drained away. There is a

danger of wet edges, water spotting and inconsistent cutting quality. The water used must be

filtered and de-ionized.

14. Ultrasonic cutting

More recently developed are cutting systems that use an ultrasonically driven knife blade.

Vibration frequencies in the 20 kHz range produce 1/20mm movement in the blade, small

enough to remove the need for a bristle base to the cutting table. Disposable knife blades save

sharpening time and last for 10 to 14 days. Single ply and very low lays can be cut and low

vacuum only is needed.

A cutting chart is prepared as follows to cut the pattern of different sizes as per the order

quantity:

Size: M L XL XXL XLT TOTAL

60 105 100 52 33 350

EXTRA 7% 4 7 7 4 2 25

To Cut 64 112 107 56 35 375

Cutting Section (Process flow chart)

Receipt of sample, file, pattern and all the parts, fabric fusing and washing shrinkage

Pre-production meeting – Then set the standards as discussed

Plan the cutting mocks and tech packs P. O. book keeping

Receipt of sample, file, pattern and all the parts, fabric fusing and washing shrinkage


g. Sorting and Bundling

To keep a track that all the correct parts are attached to the correct size garment, after cutting, all

parts are stickered or otherwise marked with a number code. These are done with a stickering

gun. During the production, various sub-assemblies need to be brought together in the assembly

stage. For example, if a size 40 sleeve is by mistake attached to a size 42 shirt body, then at least

two more pieces should be defective. So keeping track is important. In some factories the parts

need to be tied into bundles - usually 10 pieces. These bundles are numbered and this keeps track

of material movement through the sewing production line. Many units are employing a bar-code

system of fixing bar codes on the bundle tags and infra-red bar code readers read these at various

stages.

To get O.K. marker report to check for all panels, prepare mini garment panel display

Make pilot run, lay the fabric as per standard consumption, and relax the lay

Cut parts to be relayed in separate area, do the numbering of the panels

Remove the parts, curing it against the set standards

Check the panels 100 %, if passed, processed or recut from matching or the same roll

end bits

Make the bundle and forward it to the sewing line

As pilot run pass report of the garment received. Proceed on bulk cutting as per plan


For example: Let‟s take the example of a shirt, it has various parts like, Collar, Yoke, Right &

Left Front, Back, Right & Left Sleeve, Pocket. These parts are cut out from the layers of fabric.

These parts are then split into bundles of predetermined size. These bundles require to be

tagged(Group Tag).

Let‟s say using 3 rolls of fabric 100 plies have been layed. If we mark the shape of pocket on the

top most layers, cut the pocket out of the lay following the mark, then we get 100pieces of

pocket. This 100 pieces of pocket is split into bundles of (Let‟s Say) 10 pieces, hence the bundle

size is 10. These bundles need to be tagged. Similarly the other parts of the garment are marked,

cut, numbered, sorted and bundled. Now let‟s try to mock a numbering system here. If Order No

- 1111, Lot No - 1, Shade No - 2, Cut/Lay No - 4, Size No - 2, Bundle No - 10, Piece No – 6.

The Bundle Number (Tag Number) should be 1111-01-02-04-02-10. The Pieces Number will be

1111-01-02-04-02-10 – Range (1 – 10).

So in case of Shirt, There will be a collar bundle, Yoke bundle, Right & Left front bundle, Right

& Left sleeve, Pocket Bundle all bearing the same bundle number 1111-01-02-04-02-10

consisting of pieces again bearing the piece number 1111-01-02-04-02-10 – Range (1 – 10).

Such Bundles are then loaded into trolleys and shifted to sewing lines.

h. Sewing

The department is responsible for stitching different parts of garment together. The process takes

place in the assembly line system. The assembly line system is the set of many different stitching

machines each for a specific purpose. These machines are arranged in an orderly fashion

depending on how different parts of garment should be attached. Assembly line method is used

for large production. Production Planning and Control decides on the article or style to be

produced with quantity. The stitching department makes necessary production planning i.e. time

line in accordance with each article. The stitching process is the most time consuming and labour

intensive process in the entire garment production. The planning is done weekly.

After the fabric is received from the cutting section, the operators are given a bundle of parts

which they have to assemble. The process is called Loading. The collars and cuffs are made in a

separate section whereas each operator ends up making the whole garment. They are called as

Collar Module & Cuff Module.

Each sewing line has a group of 20-40 machines depending on the type and style of a garment

and there are 2-12 or even more sewing lines numbered A to Z depending on the order quantity

and production capacity of the plant. Each sewing line has a supervisor who is the overall in-

charge of the proper working and quality of the line. At the end of every sewing line, a table is

kept where initial quality checking is done.


Production planning: Production planning may be defined as the technique of foreseeing every

step in a long series of separate operations, each step to be taken at the right time and in the right

place and each operation to be performed in maximum efficiency. It helps entrepreneur to work

out the quantity of material manpower, machine and money requires for producing

predetermined level of output in given period of time.

i. Washing

Washing is done for some of the garments which depend on the buyer‟s requirements of the

finished product, how the finished product should look and feel like. About 100 – 150 garments

are washed in one lot and various types of washes are given as given in the following table. After

washing of the garments, hydro-extractors are used to take the excess water in the garment and

then driers are used to dry the washed garments.

The various types of washes that may be given in this unit are as follows:

Type of wash Temperature Effect

Softener Wash Cold (room temp.) Softens the garment

Silicon softener wash Cold (room temp.) Softens the garment (max)

Enzyme Wash 550C Brushes out puckering of top stitches

Leather Wash 600C Stiffens the garment

Stone Wash 600C - 70

0C Fades the garment

Acid Wash 600C - 70

0C Fades the garment (max)

Caustic Wash 500C Fades the garment (min)

Hypo Wash 600C - 80

0C Fades the garment evenly

Garments which do not require washing are directly sent to the pressing or finishing section.

j. Finishing and Packaging Department:

This is final stage before the garment is ready to be shipped. As the garment is already finished,

it requires a series of quality checks. The garment goes through the quality checks like color test,

washing test, stitching test etc. After which it is steam pressed, labeled, packed into garment bags

and finally, put into the cartons. Once all cartons are packed and labeled, external quality check

takes place and goods are shipped. The PPC department gives the details of the Purchase Order

to be finished, packed and dispatched. The following jobs are done before the final shipment:

1. Thread Trimming: The loose threads or excess threads are trimmed which remain

on the garment even after coming from the trimming department.


2. Quality Control: They check the final look of the garment by measuring whether the

plackets are equal, the cuffs are of equal width or not and whether there are any stains

on the garment etc.

3. Button Attaching: Buttons are attached after washing. Different types of button

attaching machines like kaja button etc. are used for the purpose.

4. Pressing: Steam irons are used for pressing the garments. Steam ironing tables are

used and the area of the garment to be pressed depends on the buyer‟s specifications.

5. Spotting: The stains are removed using a stain removing gun which uses white petrol

for scattering the stains.

6. Final Quality Controller: This is the last stage of quality checking. If the garment

fails at this stage in quality, it is rejected.

7. Folding: Air operated shirt folding tables are used which require minimum handling

of the garment.

8. Packing: The garments are first packed into polybags, pins, clips etc. are used for

keeping the fold of the garment and then the packed garments are placed inside

cartons with the sizes required by the buyer.

Finishing Process:

1. The finished garment from sewing section is received here.

2. Extra left over threads on the garments and at the joints after sewing is trimmed here.

This process is called TRIMMING.

3. These Garments are inspected for manufacturing defects. This process is called

Checking.

4. The garments are pressed on pressing tables to set the seams straight and to give good

presentation to the garment. This process is called PRESSING.

5. The pressed garments are then examined thoroughly for quality and compliance with the

specifications and the requirement of the customer. This Process is called INSPECTION.

6. There are two different forms of inspection usually conducted on the consignment.

7. First inspection is conducted by a certified inspector who works for the manufacturing

company. In other words an Internal Inspector. This may or may not follow AQL (Acceptable

Quality level) system of inspection.


8. Second inspection is conducted by representative of the buying agency. This inspection

will be conducted based AQL (Acceptable Quality level) system.

9. The tag will remain intact on the garment through out all the above explained processes.

10. At any of the inspection or checking points if any quality issues are observed within the

garment, a special ID tag is tagged to the garment and is scanned and then sent back to rework. If

there are some irreparable problems with in the garment, then a different ID is assigned to it and

scanned and co-related to its original piece number in the database and needs to be flagged off as

defective, so that even by mistake it doesn‟t find its way in to the consignment.

k. Shipment of Garments:

The following information is generally found on the cartons to be packaged and shipped.

Buyer Order No. :

1. Name of the buyer/brand : XYZ

2. Destination : Germany

3. Description of style : Summer 2012

4. Type : Woven/Knit

5. Order No. : 1872-06

6. Order Quantity : 20298 pcs.

7. Shipping Quantity : 550 pcs.

8. Sizes : XS/S/M/L/XL/XXL

9. Category : Packed

10. Rate : (FOB/C&F/CIF)

11. Late Shipment : Yes/No

12. Mode of Shipment : By Sea/Air

13. Actual Date of Shipment : 22.08.2012

14. Freight Accrued : $43.8

15. Packing Details : Flat packed

16. Gross Wt./Nett Wt. : 12 lbs.

17. Carton Dimension : 230x210x120 mm.

18. Nomination : None


19. Commission % to be : 2/10 net 30

20. „N‟ Form Required : Yes/No

21. Hanger : Yes/No

22. Zipper/Elastic Garment : No

23. Payment Term Under L/C : Yes/No

Finished Garment Evaluation

Many firms uses both 100 percent inspection and statistical sampling. A number of the finishing

processes such as trimming threads and pressing also assist in identifying glaring defects that

have not been previously found. When effective quality system is used throughout the

manufacturing process, the reliance on finished goods inspection may be reduced.

Final inspection usually involves inspection of the fabric, sewing, wet processing results (if

done), consistency of labels, and measurements according to size.

When fabrics are repairable, garments should be sent to a special station called Mill Flaw Repair

also known as Darning where fabric flaws are corrected by pulling extra fibers out of yarn slubs

and pulling knots to the back. These relatively simple processes require special training for the

operators but may allow the seconds to be upgraded to first quality.

Conclusion

The Indian garment industry has a lot of potential to become the largest garment manufacturing

industry in the world combined with the advantage of cheap and skilled labor provided we get

the latest machineries, equipment and methods used for garment manufacturing.

Indian garment industry although needs to reduce WIP, and throughput time and improve quality

by applying quality control systems like 5S, Six Sigma and other quality control tools.

Various established techniques are used to reduce inventory and throughput time. Most people

have come across at least some of these including:

Balancing (Yamazumi)

and

Documents

Overview of Indian Garment Industry