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Our Visit to Laguardia and the Rioja Alavesa WineriesPosted on May 9, 2013 by Totally Spain

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We revisited Rioja Alavesa last weekend and have come back buzzing from the trip. Totally Spain has organised hundreds ofholidays to Laguardia and neighbouring areas in the past decade and we continue to be bowled over by the towns and villages, thewineries and the views every time. We decided to approach this trip through the eyes of one of our clients who has never beenbefore and we did so by taking one of our own custom packages.

What do we like in the Rioja Alavesa Wine Region?We love visiting Riojan wineries (they are well set-up there for visitors now). Many bodegas are stunningly beautiful, their winesare exciting and varied, and the backdrop of the mountains and valleys is beyond words. Of course, the Riojan cuisine, as always,is amazing. Soul food with wine. We had a wonderful lunch on the first day and really tasty food at our 4 star Hotel Villa deLaguardia for dinner and buffet breakfast. And even our roadside snack in a little bar in a village was delicious.

What did we do in Rioja in just over 24hrs ?

Tight on time we still managed to tour 3 wineries, laze over lunch in a cosy mediaeval plaza in Laguardia, people-watch aplentywhile sipping delicious coffees, had a spa treatment and, to cap it all, ate our evening meal by the outdoor hotel pool whilewatching the sun set over the vineyards. Magical.

Why do we keep recommending Laguardia to our clients?

Laguardia is the quintessential Riojan hamlet. It´s honey-coloured streets are both cinematic and, around meal time, soenticingly aromatic. It is a beautifully kept 13th century fortified town. As with all walled cities such as Carcassonne or Lucca, ithas a magical mediaeval atmosphere. What makes Laguardia extra special is what lies below the cobbled streets. It’sunderground network of 300 or so caves – many of which are still used to produce or store wine – is larger than the town above.To protect the Emmental-like structures below – the only vehicles allowed into the centre are the tractors delivering the grapes tothe caves in September – so it’s extremely child-friendly!

One of the stunning squares in Laguardia where we had a lovely lazy lunch after visiting a winery

It’s a lovely place to visit a winery, have a long lunch, take a stroll around the town by the tree-lined Paseo del Collado and savoura coffee in a square – which is exactly what we did! We even met a great friend – Maria – owner of the wonderful Erletxe casarural – and purveyor of delicious honey. Our lunch in a restaurant called El Portico on Calle Mayor beside the Abbot’s Towerincluded typical dishes such as ‘patatas a la riojana’ – a great stew with potatoes, smoked paprika and chorizo and succulent ‘rabo de buey’ – oxtail stew. The wine included in our set-course-menu was called Ayesa made in Laguardia. Doesn´t get moreslow food than that. We had coffees at Hospederia Los Pasajes on the Plaza Mayor from where we saw the cutest chime at 5pm.

Visiting the Wineries of Laguardia

El Fabulista is a traditional cave-winery in the centre of Laguardia that produces young wines from tempranillo grapes. Here theystill press their grapes by foot! Our guide Julia was very helpful and explained the traditional techniques of wine-making. Shespoke of the former owner of the palace and cave – Felix Samaniego (a well known writer of fables and erotic fiction). She saidthat by request, they can provide an actor dressed in period costume to read passages of the writer’s work during the wine-tastingsection of the tour.

The Ysios winery was designed by Santiago de Calatrava

Gorgeous oak barrels starting out in the Ysios winery near Laguardia

The Marques de Riscal winery which has a titanium hotel, spa and restaurant designed by Frank Gehry

Old production techniques are still maintained for some wines at Marques de Riscal

Next was the Ysios winery – now owned by the Domecq group which is part of the Pernod-Ricard empire. The winerycommissioned the Spanish architect Santiago de Calatrava to pick the site and design the bodega and that he did in 2001. Ourguide Silvia took us around the building and illustrated the architect’s work as well as that of the winemaker. Ysios is also atempranillo producer – working with a number of artists and celebrities to create their wines. A great visit and wonderful wine!

And from the new we went to the very very old. The Marques de Riscal winery was established in 1858. The tour weaves in andout of some wonderful gardens and historic buildings. Lots of walking around meant we got to know lots of the people on the tourand were sad to part from our new acquaintances when it was time to go. There we saw the exterior of Frank Gehry´s City of Winebuilding (a hotel, spa and Michelin-star restaurant completed in 2006) but it wasn’t the focus of the tour. We did get to see a lot ofthe production stages of their wines and were like children on a school tour when we were taken to the bottling and boxing sectionof the winery – something we didn’t get to see elsewhere. Our guide was again fantastic. As with all wineries, it’s possible topurchase wine at the shop. In addition to its wines, the Marques de Riscal also sells some food produce and merchandise. Thewinery also has a large café.

Unfortunately we didn’t leave enough time to visit the producer of reds, rose and white wines – Baigorri – we had run out of time.Next time we are not missing out on lunch at what is one of our favourite wineries. The views of the valleys are spectacular fromthe building designed by Iñaki Aspiazu and completed in 2005. We recommend you try it out.

When to visit Laguardia

This is a great destination all-year-round. We’ve enjoyed Rioja Alavesa during busy grape harvest season in September/Octoberwhen the vineyards are alive with activity. In June when everything starts to bloom and then in again in Autumn for the colourfulfoliage. And in December, when the weather was chilly, hearty Riojan stews and warm welcomes. This time – in early May wewere able to appreciate the snow-capped mountain tops of Ezcaray (part of the Sierra de Cantabria mountains) whilst eatingoutdoors and basking in that embracing spring time sunshine. Laguardia is a unique and affordable holiday in the peak summermonths as well as it is off the beaten tourist trail.

Stunning views from Laguardia of the valleys of vineyards and the Sierra Cantabria mountains capped in snow

Local fiestas worth noting are the Annual Harvest Festival in September and in Laguardia the Fiesta of San Felices is celebratedfrom the last week of June with a Pamplona-style cow run through the town.

How to get around Rioja Alavesa

We recommend Rioja Alavesa as a self-drive holiday. You will need a car to visit almost all the wineries and to enjoy thesurrounding villages. As always, we can arrange a driver-guide for you if you prefer not to drive yourself. Visits to the wineriesneed to be pre-booked and Totally Spain can take care of that for any of the wineries in the Rioja region. We recommend no morethan two wineries a day – although it is possible to visit three if you are tight for time. Many of the smaller wineries close onSundays and/or Mondays and some of the smaller operations will not take visits during harvest time of September and Octoberand also close during Christmas and Easter holidays. For groups Totally Spain can make arrangements for you to dine in a wineryor even in a vineyard. We can also arrange for you to take part in the harvesting.

How to get to Laguardia

90 mins drive (123km) from Bilbao Airport2hrs 15mins drive (210km) from Biarritz Airport2hrs07 mins drive (210km) from Santander Airport/Ferry port3hrs 21mins drive (345km) from Madrid Airport. You can also fly from Madrid into Logroño airport 17km from Laguardia.

Where to stay in Laguardia

We stayed at the 4-star Hotel Villa Laguardia at the edge of Laguardia – making it ideal for coming and going to the wineries.[Thank you – as always – for a great overnight stay!] We love this place because its customer service is top-class. It´s run by theextremely hard working Lavin-Santamaria Brothers. They are also the owners of the splendid Villa Lucia wine museum nearbyand a highly successful catering business that has even catered to the King of Spain when he visited the Basque Country.

4-star Hotel Villa Laguardia – abrilliant base for touring the

wineries

The food here in both restaurants is excellent and very reasonably priced. It has a lift with brilliant panoramic views of thevineyards. And the Wine Oil Spa circuit is fantastic after a day’s sight-seeing! And the wine shop in the hotel is really handy forsome last-minute purchases of wine, other alcohol and local olive oils. It’s a great hotel for families and small children – its suitesare easily converted to family rooms. It also has a small play area indoors and a large playground in the gardens with an outdoorpool and limited access to the indoor pool. Next visit – we’ll come with a bit more time – and we’re going to hire their bikes andcycle around a few villages – and follow that with a massage with hot grape oil and other essential oils.

Want to visit the wineries of Rioja Alavesa?

Let us put a custom Rioja package together for you offering a mix of both the new and the old, the small and the large, thetraditional and the avant-garde.

Get some extra ideas from our slideshows:

Considering a trip to Spain and want to experience Spanish wines and gastronomy? We can recommend where to visit, arrange tastings at local wineries, get a booking in a Michelin star restaurant, arrange a cooking class, make sure you sample the best barfood and visit an artisan food producer too. Have a look at some of our ideas in our Suggested Gastronomic Tour for Small Groups package.

Tempted to arrange an Insider Tour of the Rioja Alavesa wineries?

Get in touch with the experts at Totally Spain. Phone Spain on +34-942-637358, from the USA & Canada on 1-888-717-4514, and from the UK on 0871-6660214 or SEND US AN EMAIL or REQUEST A CUSTOM TRIP QUOTE