Operation Management Report (Textile) MBA

7/27/2019 Operation Management Report (Textile) MBA

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Operation Management 1

Report -1

Program: MBACourse: Operation Management

Selected Companys Operations,

Gul Ahmed Textile Mills

Faculty:

Institute of Business & TechnologySubmitted By: Muhammad Tauqeer Ahmad

Student ID:

Submission Date: November 22nd

2008


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Table of Contents

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT ------------------------------------ 03

COMPANY PROFILE ----------------------------------------- 05

SPINNING ------------------------------------------------------- 11

WEAVILNG------------------------------------------------------ 14

PRETREATMENT--------------------------------------------- 18

DYEING (Export) ----------------------------------------------- 20

DYEING (Local) ----------------------------------------------- 25

COLLAR KITCHEN ------------------------------------------- 27

DESIGN ENGRAVING -------------------------------------- 29

PRINTING -------------------------------------------------------- 32

FINISHING ------------------------------------------------------- 36

FINISH EXPORT FOLDING ------------------------------- 39

THE LABORATORY ----------------------------------------- 42

QUALITY ASSURANCE ------------------------------------ 45

WAREHOUSE ------------------------------------------------- 47

CONFECTION -------------------------------------------------- 49

SALES CONTRACT ----------------------------------------- 54SAMPLING ------------------------------------------------------ 57

CUTTING LETTER -------------------------------------------- 58

PROCUREMENTS ------------------------------------------- 60

INTRODUCTION TO MERCHANDIZING -------------- 62

SUGGESTIONS ----------------------------------------------- 65


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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Assuming of any role in a new organization is a source of great anxiety. An orientation programdefinitely helps eliminate this anxiety and removes a number of ambiguities. I felt myselfextremely fortunate for having found the opportunity to go through a very comprehensive

orientation program.

Gul Ahmed Textile is a great organization involved in composite operations. Not only theoperations are very large in terms of volume but also are highly technical. It is almost

impossible to get insight of the entire organization in a limited time. However, the orientationprogram has been extremely useful in developing the basic knowledge about the organizationand the functions of its unitsreasonably in good number (by the Grace of Allah Almighty).

I am thankful to the Operation Manager Mr. Fazal-Ur-Rehman & General Manager Mr. DanishAdam jee, whose help and assistance enabled me to successfully complete this report. I am alsovery thankful to Mr. Hadi Fayyazi , Mr. Saeed Akhtar , Mr. Majid Khan and others to give metheir precious time in completing my assignment, and passing their great experience.

Again a humble vote of gratitude to all the respected employees, for designing such a pattern for

us and guiding us on the right path.


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GUL AHMED TEXTILE

MILLS


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COMPANY PROFI LE & H ISTORY

Gul Ahmed was incorporated in 1953 as a private Limited company and became a PublicLimited company in 1955.1t began as on unquoted Public company with 25000 spindlesand 250 Looms. It was listed on the Karachi Stock exchange in 1970.

It has since grown steadily into a composite unit with the following installed capacity:

Spinning Units Ring Frames 97,000Weaving Units Air Jets 220

Sulzers 90Conventional 342

---------Total 652 Looms

Preparation Singeing Bleaching MercerizingDyeing Pad Steam Thermosol Hot Flue

Printing Rotary Flat Tables -Finishing Agers Stenters CalendarsCoating Unit Back Coating Flocking Velours

Today it is one of the larger textile mills in the country having over 5000 employees. Thecompany continuously strives to maintain its position as industry leader in sales growthand low cost production. This remarkable development has been possible throughcommitment to technology, and an honest approach to doing business.

At Gul Ahmed we believe in thinking beyond bottom lines, like contributing to everyconceivable service, such as fulfilling customer expectations, employees housing to health, from

parks to environment, from schools to charities, the nation and mankind at large.

The company exports made up household articles globally, and is its main business, andin the home market, sells dyed & printed lawn for ladies, and a variety of cambric &

poplins for gents.

Gul Ahmed Textil e M il ls L imited

Gul Ahmed Textile Mills is a composite textile unit, with the following facilities.

Ring Spinning of Cotton & Poly Cotton yarn Weaving of Grey fabric Processing & Finishing of Cotton & Poly Cotton Fabrics Stitching of House Hold Textiles including Curtains.


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Location:

Company Address:

HT/4B Landhi Industrial Area Karachi 75120Pakistan

Telephone 92-21-5082626-30

Fax 92-21-5082625

Email [email protected]

Operations

1.Spinning.2. Weaving.3. Design & Styling.4.Pretreatment, Printing, Dyeing, Finishing.5. Hemming of house hold textiles.6. Quality Control.

Group of Companies

Following is the list of companies, which are part of the group.

Gul Abmed Textile Mills Limited Swisstex Chemicals Gul Abmed Energy Limited

Business Activiti es

Textiles

In the textile field, activities start from spinning of raw cotton and man made fibers, and theseare spun into yarns. These yarns are then woven into a variety of fabrics, which are processedand finished in all types of cotton and blended fabrics, bed linen and home textiles includingcurtains.

Apparel

Gul Ahmeds Apparel Division has established a tremendous presence in the International markets especially in United States

and Europe, since its establishment in Year 2006. We supply to major clothing brands and large buying houses. Our sewing

manufacturing facility has an in-house production capacity of 5.4 million units per annum and is 100 % export based.

We produce the highest quality garments and our entire organization and production processesare equipped and continuously updated to satisfy our buyers. Our reputation and commitmentwith our valued customers is our highest asset


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Power

The group is pioneers in the field of power generation. The textile mills are on self-generationwith an installed capacity of more than 20 MW.

Management

Management of the group is professionally qualified and broadly experienced. The company'sdirector has held top position in various textile bodies, exports committees and assisted thegovernment of Pakistan in trade talks & negotiation with EC & USA authorities in framingtextile policies.

Mission Statement:

To produce quality products through emphasis on consumer needs and to

earn profits through total consumer satisfaction.

Vision Statement:

To be the textile leader of value added products in Pakistan and to achieve aturnover of 300 million US $ in the next 15 years.

Product:Gul Ahmed's fine textile products represent a unique fusion of the century old

traditions of the east and the latest textile technology of the west. The purest of cotton fibers,produced from the fertile lands of the Indus Valley, are spun, woven and processed into thefinest quality cotton and blended products through a combination of latest technology, skillsand craftsmanship of this traditional industry.

1)Bed-LinenQuilt covers ,duvet covers, flat and fitted sheets, pillow covers, valance sheets, bolster case withall sorts of fancy confectioning, embroidery and embellishments, packed to buyers' specificrequirement.


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2)Curtain

Ready made curtains lined, un-lined and taptop curtains, plain or fully accessorized withtiebacks, pelmets, cushion covers, in different styles of confectioning and embroidery, packed to

buyers' specific requirement.

3)FabricRunning meter fabrics, packed to specific requirement.

4)YarnGul Ahmed specializes in medium-to-fine-count cotton yarns and is also capable of producingyarns using a wide variety of synthetic fibers including polyester, rayon and other man-madefibers


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5)OthersAll APPAREL Articles , Boxer shorts, carpenter shorts, Mens , Boys , Womens Tee Shirts,Hooded, Trouser, Apparel Items, cycle shorts, table linen, kitchen linen, sofa cover, quiltedarticles including bed spreads, comforters, etc.


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SSPPIINNNNIINNGG

he Orientation Program started from the Spinning Department. Gul Ahmed has its own

spinning facility located in Landhi Mill no 5. The contact person was Mr. MehmoodDirector Technical Production. However the orientation was conducted in two sessions. The

spinning facility at GTM 5 comprises of two significant divisions the Production facility and theTesting Lab.

Production Facility.

The production facility comprises of several departments. Mr. Ashraf provided a detaileddescription of each department and gave description of each and every work process. First thecotton bales are received at the warehouse. This cotton is purchased based on the sample selected

and onwards approval from the lab. Cotton Bales are mostly purchased from Sind, Punjab, and insome cases even from abroad. The most frequently purchased cotton is MNH 93 produced inPunjab.

Plucking.

At this stage cotton bales are manually opened and are put in Pluckers. Pluckers are machineswhich mix the cotton and separate the bales into smaller denominations. The separated cotton isthen transferred into the Blow Room.

Blow Room

The Blow Room is a facility, which is primarily used for the Cleaning, Mixing and Opening ofcotton for yarn production. Cotton is processed through various stages in this area throughdifferent machines and the main objective is to refine the cotton being used in yarn production. A

brief description of the machinery used is given below.

Auto B lender Primarily used for mixing cotton. This means that the cotton fibers are separated for thefacilitation of the cleaning process. Waste at this stage is also removed.

B-11 This machines is mainly used for trash removal. The cotton is passed through channelwith air pressure. Trash is removed and deposited at the bottom of the machine while thecotton is passed on for further processing.

Multimixer Again multimixer is another machine used for further mixing and opening of the rawcotton.

Heavy Particle As this is self explanatory this machine is used to remove trash andSeparator facilitates in the cleaning process.

Tower Feed Fr ee This is mainly used for beating cotton so that the fibers are furtherRoller aligned.

Tower Feed Fr ee This is mainly used for the further waste removal and fine opening ofFine Opener cotton fiber.

Tower Feed Fr ee The tower has wires attached to its beater which further separates the

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Wire Opener fibers.

Vision Shield The vision shield is yet another equipment to purify the raw cotton. This device containssensors which sense the foreign particles (Trash) i.e. polythene, leafs etc. and sucks themout of the raw cotton through air pressure.

D Duster This is the final stage in the blow room in which even the tiny and micro dust particles

are removed from the raw cotton. Once the cotton is passed through the D Duster it istransferred into the Carding department.

The Carding Department.

The main function of this department is to transform the cotton into Sliver. The main objectivehere is to maintain the uniformity, alignment and stretch ability of the fiber as per the desiredstandards. Once the Cotton is turned into Sliver it is filled in Cans. Cotton is passed throughDrying Breaker to maintain the uniformity; the fiber is straightened. The sliver is then passed toDrying Finisher is for the same purposes however the only difference is that of the Auto Leveler.The Auto leveler is primarily used for controlling the variasion in uniformity (weight) of the

sliver. The unit of measure for uniformity is Grain.

Simplex.Simplex is the process of shaping the Sliver into Roving. The main processes involved areGrafting, Twisting and Winding the sliver and shaping it like a thin rope. There are currently sixmachines used for turning the Sliver into Roving. Each machine has a capacity of 120 spindles.Spindles are the equipment on which the Roving is collected. The unit of measure of roving isHanks. Once the roving are collected it is passed on to the Ring Department for yarn production.


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The Ring Department.

This is function where the yarn is finally produced. The Rovings are put on the machines usedhere and passing the roving through the machine produces yarns. The main objective of themachines here is again Grafting, Twisting and Winding. Once the cotton thread is produced it is

collected in the from of Bobbin.

The Auto Cone Department.

The main equipment used in the auto cone department is a machine called Loepee. The functionof this machine is to observe the yarn and remove the unwanted portion of the yarn. If a portionof the threat is identified as unwanted it is removed and the threat is then again joined to continuewith the process. All sensed thread is collected on a Cone. The cone is of a Standard size. Once acones are completed they are transferred to the packing department from where they are packedand stored.

Spinning Laboratory

The second important section of the spinning facility is the Test Laboratory which is mainlyresponsible for the inspection and testing of the cotton samples and monitoring the work

processes and machinery in the production facility. Mr. Saleem provided a detailed descriptionon the work processes of the Lab.

The Yarn Section.

The first section in the lab is the Yarn Department in which the production is monitored

according to the set and desired standards. There are various machines and equipments used forthis purpose which the performance and output of the production facility.

The Wrapping Drum: This is an equipment used to measure the count i.e. Grains of the Sliver being produced.67 grains is the standard unit to measure the thickness.The sliver is rolled on the wrapping drum and six rounds of the wrapping drum are taken.Once six rounds are completed the sliver is cut and weighed. The grains of the sliver arethen computed by the application of a formula.

The Strength Machine: The strength machine is used to measure the strength of the yarn. 120 yards of yarn arerequired to measure the strength of yarn. 120 ya rds of yarn equals to one Lie. A 30-count yarn has strength of 72 pounds. There are other standards to measure other countsas well.

Auto Sorter: Auto sorter is device, which inspects the count of both the Yarn and the Hanks.

UT4: This devise is used to run similar detailed tests, which inspects the Sliver and the Yarn.

Spectro Gram: This device detects the technical fault in the machinery operational in the mill.


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WWEEAAVVIINNGG

(Procedure)

eaving is method or process of interlacing two yarns of similar materials so that they crosseach other at right angles to produce woven fabric. The warp yarns, or ends, runlengthwise in the fabric, and the filling threads (weft), or picks, run from side to side.

Weaving can be done on a power or handloom or by several hand methods. At Gul AhmedTextile Weaving is done on both Air Jet Looms and Sulzer Looms. There are separate facilitiesfor weaving for both markets i.e. Local as well as Exports.

In case of Weaving for Exports the facility has been established in GTM 5 and for Local facilityhas been setup at GTM 4. The process is initiated from the Yarn Warehouse. Yarn is separated inthe Yarn warehouse where the Yarn to be utilized in the Warp and the Weft are segregated.

WARP: Its the set of yarn in all woven fabrics, that runs lengthwise (veridical ) and parallelto the selvage and is interwoven with the weft.

WEFT: In a woven fabric, the yarn running from selvage to selvage (Horizontal) at rightangles to the warp threads .Each Vertical thread is called a pick or Weft.

BEAMING (Warping): The operation of winding warp yarns onto a beam usually inpreparation for slashing, weaving, or warp knitting. Also called warping. Once the Warp ends areseparated they are brought to a machine where these warps threads are aligned on the beam for

the purpose of weaving. The size of the beam may vary and infact the width of the fabric isdependent of the width of the beam. Beam sizes and number of ends per beam. Currently at theExport Weaving facility the Warping Machines have a capacity of Warping 704, 800 and 1040threads on once beam. Where is

SIZING: A generic term for compounds that are applied to warp yarn to bind the fibertogether and stiffen the yarn to provide abrasion resistance during weaving. Starch, gelatin, oil,wax, and manufactured polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol, polystyrene, polyacrylic acid, and

polyacetates are employed. Beams containing the Warp ends are then put on the sizing machinewhere the warp ends are passed through chemical compounds so that strength of the yarn isincreased. Several Beams can be loaded on the Sizing machine at a time. Currently the sizingmachines at the export facility have two capacities i.e of 24 and 28 beams. Depending upon thequality of weave required. New beams are created out of the beams loaded on the Sizing

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machine. Example if its a quality of 76 x 68 with a width of 100 then the number of warp ends

required on one beam shall be 76 x 100 i.e. 7600. However the Warping machine can only Warp1040 threads on a beam at a time. Thus to get 7600 threads 8 beams shall have to be made. Allthese 8 beams are then put on the sizing machine and then the Warps ends of all the eight beamare passed through the chemical at the same time and collected on one beams.

WASTE RECYCLING: Waste is recycled at both the Warping as well as the Sizingstage. All waste which is acculate is then send to the rewinding.

DRAWING: Drawing is a very important and time consuming process in the weaving of thefabric. It is infact a process in which the texture of the fabric is shaped. Setting the pattern ofintersection of the Warp shapes the texture of the fabric and Weft ends. However the patterns isset up by the dropper, dropper rod and the frame which shall be important in shaping the textureof the cloth. Once the Drawing of the Beam is completed the beam is ready for being passed onto the loom shed.

LOOM: The Loom is the actual machine for weaving fabric by interlacing a series of vertical,parallel threads (the warp) with a series of horizontal, parallel threads (the filling). The Yarnseparates in the beginning for the Weft is directly brought to the loom shed. The warp yarns froma beam pass through the heddles and reed, and the filling is shot through the shed of warp

threads by means of a shuttle or other device and is settled in place by the reed and lay. Thewoven fabric is then wound on a cloth beam. The primary distinction between different types oflooms is the manner of filling insertion. Mainly there are two types of looms being used in GulAhmed i.e. the Air Jet Loom and the Sulzer Loom however Air Jet is only used for the purposesof Export Weaving.

KNOTTING: Knotting is a process in weaving when the beam is replaced by a fresh newbeam. This is done when an existing quality of the fabric is being produced on a loom and theWarp thread on the beams are about to be fully consumed the Machine is stopped and theexisting beam is replaced by a new beam however the Warp ends are knotted together with theends of the previous beam so that the production is continuous.

GETTING: When once particular quality is manufactured and is completed the complete setof the beam, rod, and dropper etc is removed and a new set is loaded for a different quality. This

process is called the Getting.

INSPECTION AND FOLDING: Once the fabric is weaved it is rolled in 150 to 200meter length rolls. The fabric is then inspected and folded. The Main purposes of the inspectionis to check the weaving defects that arise during the weaving process. The fabric once inspectedis folded and passed on to the packing department for packing. Once packed the fabric is kept inthe fabric godown.

The Unit of Measures.

The Count:

The Count is mainly the twist of the yarn. 1 pound of Yarn containing 840 yards of thread isequal to 1 single count. The a count of 80 is 80 x 840 yards of thread in one pound of yarn.


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The Construction.

The number of warp yarns (ends) and filling yarns (picks) per inch in a woven fabric, or thenumber of wales and courses per inch in a knit fabric. For example, a fabric construction of 68 x52 indicates 68 ends per inch in the warp and 52 picks per inch in the Weft. The constructiondetermines the quality of the fabric.

Weave.

The weave is the pattern in which the fabric is knitted. This determines the texture. For examplethe plain cotton 1/1 means that each thread of the weft shall jump on thread of the Warp andvice, versa. Common Weaves include 1/1 Plain, 1/3 Twill, 4/1 Sateen.


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WWEEAAVVIINNGG

( Flow Chart )

Yarn

Warehouse

Weft EndsWarp Ends

Warping

Waste

Recycling

Waste

Sizing

Loom

Shed

Sizing

Drawing

Getting

Knotting

Packing

Folding

Inspection

Fabric


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PPRREETTRREEAATTMMEENNTT

retreatment is the first and the most significant stage in the fabric processing stage. Thisstages its self it divided into sub stages, which have their own importance. Pretreatment ismainly a preparation of the fabric for the Dying and the Printing process. This process

includes mainly Singing & De-sizing, Bleaching and Mercerizing. These processes are importantas pretreatment provides the foundation or the base for fabric printing and dying and thus plays amajor role in the outlook of the end product.

Planning:

Planning is a major area of importance. The Planning department schedules the Grey cloth to therespective department. All the pretreatment sections are dependent of the schedule provided bythe planning department.

Singing and De-sizing:

This is the first stage of the pretreatment process. There are two main activities performed duringthis stage. Singing is the process of removing the uneven fibers on the grey to even andsmoothen the surface of the fabric. Singing is a physical phenomenon in which burners are usedto burn the unwanted fibers on the grey. This removes the piling from the surface of the fabric.Once the fibers on the grey are removed the cloth is de-sized. De-sizing is the process of

removing the chemicals applied on the cloth during weaving. Sizing is the process duringweaving when chemicals are applied on the yarn to increase is strength so that when the yarn isweaved on the looms its durability is increased. In De-sizing all chemical applied during sizingare removed by passing the grey through a chemical tank. De-sizing is necessary for the softnessand fineness in the cloth. Once the grey is passed through the chemical tank it is collected onrollers, which keep the grey rotating for 6-8 hrs for the chemicals, applied during de-sizing, toreact.

Bleaching:

Once the grey have been singed and de-sized the next step is bleaching, bleaching is necessary toattain the required whiteness. First the grey is passed through channels where the cloth is washedand then the cloth is passed into streamers, from the steamers, the cloth is passed in to chemicaltanks for a treatment called Scouring. This activity is done to remove the oil stains, fats, fattyacids, etc present on the surface of the cloth. Once the cloth is passed thought the chemical tankand dried, it is then forwarded for bleaching. Bleaching is done with the help of several

bleaching agents, these agents include, H2O2, NAOH, Stabilizer, meeting agents, etc, thesechemicals react to give the over all bleaching affect. Once the cloth is bleach it is passed on tosteamers with a temperature of 101 Centigrades. The cloth is heated in this steamer for 20mminute and then is passed through various washing tanks, once the cloth is washed it is rolled

over several hot rollers to dry the cloth and is then collected at the end.

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Bleaching Machines:

These are mainly two different types of pretreatment methodologies being used to prepare the

cloth for processing. These are mainly the Goller Bleaching and the J-Box bleach these aremainly two different types of machine being used for the bleaching of the fabric. The maindifference in these two machines it that the fabric in the Goller Machine is processed straightwhere as in the J-Box the fabric is processed in a rope form.

Goller Properties.

The fabric processing cycle is 12 hrs.Fabric to be used for printing should be always bleached on the Goller.

Less WrinklesLess BowWarp and Weft remain allignet to a great extent a compared to the J-Box.Used for Heavy counts.

Mercerizing:

Mercerizing is done mainly for dying and for Re-Active printing, there are rare cases in whichthe cloth to be printed is also subjected to Mercerizing as well. This is a process that creates

luster in the fabric, increases the absorption capability of the cloth and aligns the fibers of Warpand Weft. More over as it increases the absorption capability of the fabric it ultimately results inthe reduction of the cost of the dying process. Its is basically a method for cotton yarn or fabricto increase its luster and affinity for dyes. The material is immersed under tension in a coldsodium hydroxide (caustic soda) solution in warp or skein form or in the piece, and is laterneutralized in acid. The process causes a permanent swelling of the fiber and thus increases itsluster.


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DDYYIINNGG((EEXXPPOORRTT))

he Dying process has been segregated into two broad divisions. Local Dying and ExportDying. Dying is a very technical process and involves various variables on which the dyingroute of the fabric is decided.

The are only two type of fabrics which can be dyed in the Gul Ahmed textile facility, 100%Cotton and Polyester Cotton which is also known as poly-cotton. Using different dyingmethods dyes both the types of fabric. Poly-Cotton can only be dyed by disperse dying. Howevercotton can be dyed using three different dyes that are: Re-active dyes, Pigment dyes and Wattdyes. The net fabric producing capacity of the dying department is 40,000 thousand meters offabric per day.

Machinery.

There are mainly five machines being used in the dying department for export dying.

The Thermo sole Machine.This machine is mainly used for Poly-Cotton as poly cotton can only be dyed on this machine.However this machine is also used for pigment and watt dying on cotton. Its a continuous dyingmachine and has a gross Capacity of dying 35000 meter of fabric per day. An advanced machineused specially of Disperse, Pigment and Watt dying, as these kinds of dying cannot be done on

any other machine in the facility.

The Pad Steam Machine.This machine is only used for 100% cotton, as Poly- Cotton cannot be dyed on this machine. Itsyet another continuous dying machine and is used for large runs. Mainly used for reactive dying.This machine is also used for washing the fabric dyed on the thermo sole machine.

Pad Batch Machine.This machine is a Semi Continues dying machine and processes cloth in batches, mainly used forsmaller runs as in case of samples. Reactive dying is done on the pad batch machine. Howeverusually medium to dark shades are run on the machine.

The Jigger M achine.This machine is also a Semi Continues machine and processed cloth in batches, mainly used forsmaller runs like samples. It is not currently being used for dying rather this machine is used forwashing. However 100% cotton can be dyed on this machine.

The Washing Machine

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This machine is used for washing the dyed cloth. It is currently under erection, once erected itshall be able to share a lot of load form the Pad Steam Machine as mostly washing for all largeruns is being done on the Pad Steam Machine.

Types of Weave.

Dying also depends on the type of weave. The types of weaves that can be dyed in the dyingfacility include, Plain weave, canvas, sartine, Jecard and Dobies.

Fastness Properties.

A very significant aspect of the dying process is the fastness properties of the dyes. When thecustomer places the order certain conditions are also included which are fulfilled during thedying process. Fastness process is mainly the resistance capability of the dye.

Washing Fastness.

This is mainly the ability of the dyed cloth to stain the white. Scale on which it is measured is (1-5).

L ight Fastness.

Light Fastness is the ability of the dye resist fading in the sunlight. Mainly light fastness isimportant for fabric used in commodities like curtain, which are exposed to sunlight quiet often.

Rubbing F astness. (Wet and Dry)

Rubbing fastness it the ability of the dye to resist friction. It is tested for both dry and wetrubbing. Important for commodities like bed linen. Rubbing fastness is also known asCrocking.

Chlorine Fastness.

Its the ability of the dye to resist the effects of Chlorine. Important for fabric used in area wherechlorine is being used in Washing of the fabric.


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The Process for Dying Poly Cotton.

Poly Cotton is mainly dyed using two separate processes. One bath dying and Two baths dying.However the kind of dyes used for dying polyester are disperse dyes. Disperse dying is done athigh temperatures. The temperature usually ranges between 130oC and 150oC. By heating the

fabric at such a high temperature the fibers of polyester are swollen and the dyes are penetratedin the fibers. Once the dyes are penetrated in the fiber the temperature is brought back to normal,the fiber regains its normal state and thus the dye is trapped in the fibers. Disperse dyes are alsoof different types. Each type of disperse dyes has its own fastness properties. A suitablecombination can therefore be derived according to the specs provided by the customer. Over allthe combinations of disperse dyes cover almost all fastness properties.

One Bath Dying.

One bath dying is only used to dye both Polyester and Cotton at the same time. The dyes forpolyester and cotton are applied at the same time. This process is cost effective however there

are limitations to this method of dying. One Batch dying is only suitable for medium to lightshades and if used for darker shades it might result in the color bleeding phenomena. The processis done through the thermo sole machine. Once the cloth is received in batches from the

pretreatment department it is padded in the machine where both the dyes of polyester and cottonare applied at the same time. After padding the cloth is dried by passing through chamber withhot air. There are three chambers in the thermo sole machine. The drying process is completedin the second chamber; the fixation process is also initiated in this chamber. Fixation is a processof drying and heating the cloth to such an extent that the dyes applied during the padding phaseare made permanent. Once the fabric is passed through all the chambers and completes is dryingand fixation it is batched again and is moved to the washing range of the Pad Steam Machine forwashing. After washing the fabric is passed on to finishing.

The Two-Batch Process.

This process is mainly used when the shades are either dark or when the shade of cotton andpolyester threads in the cloth are of different shades. In the first step polyester is dyed using thethermo sole machine. The process path usually used is pad dry and cure. Once Polyester is dyedthe second most important step is reduction clearing. Reduction Clearing is a process in whichthe polyester dyes are removed from the cotton ends of the fabric. During the disperse dying

process the polyester is though dyed but at the same time the cotton ends are also stained bythese dyes. Reduction clearing removes these dyes from the cotton ends. The fabric is sent of the

Pad Steam Machine where the cloth is first dipped in a chemical trough, which contains theclearing chemicals; the cloth is then padded and passed on to a steaming chamber where thefabric is steamed. After steaming the cloth is washed in the washing tanks and dried at the end.Once the reduction clearing process in cotton fabric is dyed during the next stage. The Cottonthreads are then dyed as per the given criteria by the customer. The dyed fabric is then washedand dried and passed on to the finishing department.

The Cotton Dying Process.

Cotton dying is a technical process and the dying route depends on various factors. There are

mainly three types of cotton dyes. Reactive dyes, Pigment Dyes and Watt dyes. Each dye has itsown fastness properties. More over each process has it own associate costs. The selection of the


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dying process depends on the customer requirements and the nature of business with thecustomer.

Reactive Dying.

Reactive Dyes can be used for light shades only on the Pad Steam Machine. Thermo solemachine can be used for both light and dark reactive dying, the pad batch machine can be usedfor Medium to Dark shades where as all shade can be dyed reactive on the Jigger Machine.Reactive Dying had high washing fastness. Good rubbing fastness, and posses an average lightfastness. Various dying paths can be selected for reactive and each path has its own associatedcosts. However reactive dying over all is cheaper than Watt dies but is expensive than Pigmentdyes.

Pigment Dying.

Pigment dying can only be done on the thermo sole machine and all kinds of shades can be dyed.

Have high light fastness and good chlorine fastness, however the Washing and Rubbing fastnessare poor. The main reason is because pigment dyes are only applied on the surface and do not

penetrate the cotton fibers thus these dyes possess poor rubbing and washing fastness. Pigmentdyes are the cheapest and most cost effective. Pigment dying is the only process in which thedyed fabric is not washed after dying.

Watt Dying.

Watt dying is rare currently in exports. This is the most expensive type of cotton dying. Wattdying is again a kind of dying only possible on the thermo sole machine. Used only for Light toMedium shades. Watt dying possesses good light fastness, high chlorine fastness, medium

washing fastness, and medium rubbing fastness. However in case of Watt dying the watt dyes aredeveloped or cured and then washed on the pad steam machine. It is a process in which thechemicals are applied on the surface of the fabric and the cloth is then steamed for the dyes totake the exact effect.


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The Dying Paths.

The dying paths for export are as under.

Dying Type Path Machine

Reactive Pad Dry Cure Thermo solePad Dry Chemical Pad Stream Pad Steam MachineCold Pad Batch Dying Pad BatchPad Steam Process Pad Steam

Pigment Pad Dry Cure Thermo sole

Disperse Pad Dry Cure Thermo sole

Watt Pad Dry Watt Development Thermo sole.


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DDYYIINNGG((LLOOCCAALL))

he local dying process is yet another technical process. The significance of dying is high as

the customer of the local market is informed and educated in terms of the technicality ofthe cloth.

Machinery.

There are mainly five machines being used in the dying department of local dying.

The Hot Flow.This machine is used for cotton dying. The main processes involved are padding, drying and

steaming. Usually used for Watt dying, however reactive dying can also be done on thismachine. The cloth is padded after passing through the dye trough where the dye is applied to thecloth. The cloth is then passed into steam chamber where the cloth is steamed and dried. Thecloth is then collected on the other end of the machine and it sent on the jigger.

The Jet Dying Machine.The Jet Dying machine is the only machine being used for the dying of polyester cotton. Thismachine is therefore used for disperse dying as disperse dying is only done in case of polyestercotton. The cloth is heated at 1300C. By heating the cloth at such a high temperature the cloth isswelled and so that the dyes can penetrate in the cloth. Once the dyes are penetrated in the cloththe temperature is normalized so that the dyes are trapped in the threads of the cloth. This dyingmethod helps in achieving good, washing fastness, good light fastness, good rubbing fastness andgood chlorine fastness.

The Continuous Dying Machine.This machine is only used for 100% cotton, as Poly- Cotton cannot be dyed on this machine. Itsyet another continuous dying machine similar to the pad steam machine used in export dying andis used for large runs. Mainly used for reactive dying. This machine is also used for washing thefabric dyed on the Hot Flow machine.

The Super Machine.The super machine is mainly used for washing the cloth. It contains several washing tanks wherecloth is passed and the left over dyes and chemicals are washed. Once passing through thewashing tanks the cloth is rolled on large rollers for drying. The cloth it than batched at the end.

The Winch Machine.This is yet another machine used for washing the dyed clothe. The cloth is washed in batches. Itis exhaust type of machine where the cloth is passed though water troughs.

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The Dying Paths.

Another important element in the dying process is the dying path. Each type of dyes has aseparate dying path. However a single type of dyestuff can have more that than one dying path.

Disperse Dying: Path Machine

Exhaust. Jet Machine.PadDryThermo sole. Jet Machine.

Re Active Dyes:PadBatch. Jigger.Exhaust. Jigger.Pad Steam. Continues Dying Machine.

Watt Dyes:PadDryJig Develop. Hot Flow and Jigger.

Pad - DryPadSteam. Hot Flow and CD Machine:Exhaust. Jigger.

Sulphur:Exhaust. Jigger.


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CCOOLLOORRKKIITTCCHHEENN

he main function of the color kitchen is matching colors and keeping an updated database.Secondly the dispensing of colors and paste preparation is also a prime responsibility of theColor Kitchen.

There are two main computerized programs (CPS and IPS) being used in the color kitchen forcolor matching and color disbursement.

CPS (Color Physics System)

This computerized program is mainly used for color matching. It not only gives the proportion of

the dyes to be mixed to give the desired results but also maintains a database of the perviousrecords. If the reading of a color is not available with the system it has to be added to thedatabase.

For adding color records to the database the available range of colors i.e. the self shades rangesof different depths and values are created physically. Mixing the dyes with a paste does thecreation of the colors. A fabric stick off is than printed with the color created and is then scanned

by a device called Spectrophotometer. This device mainly scans the image and converts theshades into numeric values like LAB. The reflectance of the dye, the paste and the fabric are allrecorded. Now to obtain the reflectance of the dye only a plain clothe of the same quality is

printed with paste only and is scanned by the spectrophotometer. The system automatically

subtracts the reflectance of the paste and the fabric from the reflectance obtained earlier. Thusthe reflectance of the dye is obtained. The dyes are then classified into books. Books are thegrouping of colors based on the fastness properties of the dyes. These include AZO fastness,Light Fastness, Dry Cleaning Fastness etc. Once all color shades have been categorized into

books the system is ready to provide the recipe for any particular shade provided by thecustomer.

When a sample is received from the customer the sample fabric is scanned by the system, herethe system has two options either the user can choose a recipe him self i.e. the free dyes option,or the system can used the fixed triangle method in which the system itself proposes the recipe

based on a combination of three shade. The maximum limit available with the system is of 3

dyes. The proposed recipe is then tested on a strike off of the fabric and is scanned again tomatch with the original image. If the reflection and the color is the same the system gives a goahead where as if there is some deviations the system highlights the differences in the

proportions and the reflection and suggests the corrective measures.

The base unit of measure is 1 KG of paste; all dyes are measured in a proportion against 1 KG ofpaste. Once a recipe is approved by the system it is recorded in the database for futurereferences. However the memory of the system is limited and thus all records cannot be kept onthe system. The Color Kitchen department also maintains manual record for each design anddesign colors. A special code is allocated to each design and each design color, which is uniqueand shall not be issue to any other color or design if deleted. This helps in identifying the color orthe design. The system also has the provision to copy the data of one quality of fabric to the otherquality and suggest the changes in the recipe.

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IPS (Integrate Paste Preparation System)

The IPS mainly controls the dispensing of the Dyes in the Paste. It transmits information to aterminal from where the color is dispensed and the weight of the color dispensed is controlled.To ensure the accuracy of the color dispensed the dispensing of the colors is controlled through

two valves. The Shower Valve and the Medium and Fine Valve. The weight of the empty bucketof color is to be provided to the IPS first to further ensure the accuracy of the weighing process.The dispensing parameters have been uploaded in IPS, i.e. the dispensing range for each flow ofthe valves has been fed in the system. Suppose if 1 kg of color is to be dispensed and a range of800 grams or more for the Shower Valve 990 grams for the Medium Flow and 1000 g for thefine value is set then the IPS shall dispense color from the shower valve till 800 grams have beendispensed. The Shower valve shall than stop and the weight shall be checked, the medium valveshall start dispensing till a total of 990 grams of color have been dispensed. The valve shall stopthe color shall be weighed again and then the last 10 grams shall be dispensed by the fine flowfrom the second valve.

Since the CPS has a limited memory therefore all previous records cannot be maintained in thesystem. As discussed earlier manual record is maintained for this purpose. The IPS has the

provision that if data is provided to this system manually as well the system can dispense dyes inthe right proportion. However there are three separate types of information required by IPS if hasto act upon manual upload. The Screen Group, the Color Way and the Dispensing Protocol.

The screen group is nothing but the details of the screen size to be used. These details include thewidth, the repeat (circumference), the open area percentage, the screen mesh i.e. the number ofholes per square inch.

The Color Way is the recipe of the color in Grains per Kg.

The Dispensing Protocol is a code given to the combination of color dispensed and theconsumption of the paste.

The Sequence Order Numbering System is maintained to Code each color used in a print or adesign. A bucket code is issued for each color or shade. All such numbers are unique asexplained earlier.

There is a slight variation in the colors and shade in using different machines. Thus the CPS canalso be used to keep record of color variations and appropriate color schemes for each machine.


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DDEESSIIGGNNEENNGGRRAAVVIINNGG

esigning and Engraving are two very essential and fundamental processes before theprinting process. Designing and Engraving are two separate functions, which are headed by

one department. The impression to be printed is prepared in the designing department andthen engraved on screens in the engraving department.

Designing.

The basic process of designing involves receiving the images, scanning the images, preparationfor color separation, color defining, cleaning, and the actual separation of the image colors.

Forms of Images.

Images and Impressions are basically received in four different formats; these formats include art

works, sample fabrics, separation (files) and picture images.

Scanning.

The impressions received are all converted into on screen image format and thus have to bescanned. The designing department has three different types of scanners. These scanners are usedto scan the images. The scanners include the Color Drum Scanner that is a cylindrical scannerand can scan impressions, which are even one meter wide.Other scanners are flat scanners and are used to scan images of different sizes.

Preparation for Separation

Once the impression is scanned there several graphic software that are used to separate the colorsof the images. These soft wares include Image PC, Adobe, Free Hand, Coral Draw, etc. The firststep after scanning is to select the appropriate portion of the image that shall be repeated throughout on the image. This portion of the image is called a Cut. In most designs there is one

particular pattern, which is repeated. Selecting the proper cut size is very important. Once the cutis selected the cut is brought to the desired size. Printing is mainly done through screens. Thesescreens are of different sizes depending upon the width of the fabric on which these screens areto be used. Adjusting the cut to the appropriate and desired size of the screen is vey importantand this process is called Scaling.

The sizes of the screens are as under.

Circumference 64 cm82 cm91.4 cm

Width 1280 mm1620 mm1850 mm2400 mm2800 mm

Once the scaling is done the joints in the imaging i.e. between the cuts are removed by editing.

The removal of the joints is important to give continuation to the image. As the cut is repeatedseveral times on the screen.

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Color Defining.

The shades, levels, locations and the mixing effects of the colors had the most significance indesigning. After removing the joints on the image the colors are defined. Colors are identified interm of location, the shades, the effect of colors getting mixed, and the over all effect of the

colors.

Cleaning.

Finally before the color separation the image is refined. By refining it is meant that anyunnecessary effects of the colors created during the defining phase are removed and the image is

polished.

Separation of the Colors.

Once the colors have been identified and the image is refined the colors are separated. This

means that the colors are first split into channels. Each color reflecting from the image shall havea separate channel. The image is broken down into all possible channels. A channel is mainly animpression of the image that reflects only one color. For example if the image is of a flower,which has, only three color, the red petals, the green stem and the yellow stigma then the imageof this flower shall have three channels. One in red showing only the petals, the other showingonly the green stem and the last showing the yellow stigma, in the same way all images are splitup into the possible color channels. Once these channels are separated each channel is saved intoa separate file. Once screen shall be made for one file and one color. All saved files are then sentto the engraving department for engraving.

Engraving.

Engraving is a process in which the designs developed in the design studios are engraved onmetallic screens for printing. These screens are imported from Holland and are received in a flatform. The screens contain microscopic holes on it surface and the holes are equally spreadthroughout the surface of the screen. Rings are first affixed on both ends of the screen to give it acylindrical shape. The screens are then put in chamber called Polymerizes where they are heatedfor 10 to 15 minutes at a temperature of 1800c to 2000c. By heating the screen at such a hightemperature the round shape of the screen is obtained.

These screens are then chemically treated. A chemical called SCR 102, and SCR 101, iscompletely quoted on the surface of the screen. The screens are then put in chambers called

Climatizers. These chambers are basically drying chambers in which the screen is dried. Themain purposes of coating and drying the screen are to close all microscopic holes on the surfaceof the screen. The screens are then brought to the engraving machines as they are now ready forengraving. At the same the design received in soft formatted is loaded on the machine.

Machinery.

These are two kinds of machines being used for engraving. The Mask Exposer and the LaserEngraving machine.

The Mask Exposer.

This machine contains a stand on which the screen is rotated. A computer operated panel movesalong the stand on which the screen rotates. This panel has two important parts the head and the


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halogen light. Solid Wax is put in cube form in a chamber in the panel. The wax is melted andthe is poured to the head of the machine. The wax is then sprinkled on the screen through thenozzle of the head. The pattern of sprinkling the wax is the same as the pattern in the file of thedesign. The Halogen light is affixed to the wax nozzle and passed though the area on the screenwhere the wax was not sprinkled. The chemical applied on the screen (SCR102 and SCR 101) islight sensitive and gets affixed once light passes through it. Thus when the light passes through

the portion on which the wax was not applied the chemical is fixed ultimately closing the holesof the screen. In the way the complete file of the design is engraved on the screen. The screen isthen put in water for almost 5 minutes. The water is slightly warm and thus by dipping in waterthe wax from the screen is removed. As the Wax gets removed from the screen the quoting of thechemical under the wax is also removed. The removal of the chemical from the surface wherethe wax was applied opens the microscopic holes on the surface. The screens are then placed inthe curing chamber for curing for 2 hrs. In the same way a separate screen is prepared for eachfile of the design. This further fixes the chemical on the screen and then the screens are finallyhanded over to the warehouse.

The Laser Engraving Machine.

This machine is older then the mask exposer but is time saving. The process is also different. Themain difference is that the screens are cured first and the chemical is first affixed on the surface.The screen is then rotated on the machine and the laser cuts thought the chemical to give thedesired design. The machine is currently not operational but is more time saving then the maskexposer.

The entire engraving department is kept in dim yellow light as the chemical SCR 101 and 102are light sensitive. The screen for samples is also made in this department. All new designs arefirst tested and sample screen are first made for the sample production.


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PPRRIINNTTIINNGG

rinting is yet another very significant department of the processing unit of Gul Ahmed. There

are mainly 5 types of printing being done in the industry. These include:

Pigment. Reactive Printing. Resist. Discharge. Burn Out.

However incase of Gul Ahmed Textiles there are only two types of printing being done i.e.Pigment and Reactive. Mainly the focus in Gul Ahmed is on the Pigment printing where asReactive is done in rare cases.

Pigment Printing.

Pigment printing include the application of pigment dyes on the surface of the fabric. These dyesform a thin film on the surface of the fabric. The fixation of the dyes is then done through curing.

Reactive Printing.

Reactive dyes react with the fibers of the fabric, once applied to give the desired shades. Thefabric is then dried and washed so the dyes are fixed and the unfixed dyes are removed.

Printing Machines.

There are mainly 5 machines being used for printing. These include:

RD-4 RD-5 RD-W The Zimmer. The KDM Machine. (For Sample Printing.) Stork. (The Curing Machine.) Hand Tables 4 each 50 meter long.

Basically the functions and the mechanics of operating for all machines are more or less the samehowever the only difference is in terms of the number of screens that can be affixed on eachmachines and that determines the number of colors each machine can print at a time. Secondlythe repeat size i.e. the circumference of the screen and the length of each screen also variesamongthe machines. The length of the screen reflects the width of the fabric that can be printed.However the capacity of each of the printing machines is given below.

RD4

Maximum Number of Screens (Colors) 8Screen Lengths 1280mm

1620mm

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1850mmRepeat Sizes 640mm

914mmPrinting System Blade Method.

RD5


1620mm1850mm2400mm2800mm

Repeat Sizes. 640mm914mm

Printing System Both Blade and Numatic Air Flow.

RDW


2400mm2800mm

Repeat Size 640mm940mm

Printing System Both Blade & Numatic Air Flow.

The Zimmer.


1850mm2400mm2800mm3200mm

Repeat Size. 640mm

820mm914mm

Printing System Numatic Air Flow System.

The KDM Machine.

The KDM only has a capacity of two screen and has a rod system only used for samplingpurposes.


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The Table Printing.Long printing table for 50 meters length are being used for manual printing. This printing ismostly being done for local and for the printing of large centralised motives. The manual printingis being done as Flat Bed printing is not being done currently at Gul Ahmed .

The Curing Machine.

The Curing Machine is mainly being used for the fixation of dyes after printing. The machinecurrently being used is known as Stork. The Curing is done by passing the cloth through Hot Air.The temperature in the Heating chamber in very high and is maintained at 1700C. Themaintenance of the temperature to the desired level is very important to give accurate results.

All printing machine being used are Rotary Machines and have a similar mechanism ofoperating. However a detailed description of the operation and mechanics of RD 5 areexplained.

Rotary RD5

This machine has a maximum speed of 50 meters per minute. The fabric rolled on the batchers isput on the rollers and is passed through the Brushing Chamber. The Function of the BrushingChamber is to brush the fluff from the surface of the fabric. The fabric is then passed into theAvoc System. Avoc system is a mechanism by which vaccum is created in a chamber and whenthe fabric is passed through that chamber the fluff remaining on the surface is sucked out of thefabric by pressure created through the vaccum. After passing through the Avoc system the fabricis then rolled over the Lobocine Device. The Lobocine Device is a roll which rotates in theopposites direction of the fabric when it is rolled over the roll. A chemical called Lobocine isapplied on the surface of the roll. This chemical is of a sticky nature and when the fabric comes

in contact with the chemical the left over dust particles are removed from the surface of thefabric. This entire process of cleaning the surface of the fabric is being done to get uniformityand to avoid design deviation and miss prints during the printing process.

The fabric is then rolled over a blanket. The fabric here is fixed on the blanket. The fixation isdone by application of a glueon the surface of the blanket. The glue is applied on the surface ofthe fabric by a glue trawlee, which contain rollers, which pad the glue on the blanket. Thefixation of the fabric on the blanket is necessary to maintain the fabric in the right position sothat the printing is done smoothly.

There are 16 screen units on the blanket on which the screen can be fixed. The screen contains adevice fixed in the centre called the Squgee. The squgee is contains a Metall ic Rodwhich isfixed by holders on the ends of the squgee. There are Control Sensorsnear the Squgee whichcontrol the inflow of the Color. Color is inflowed from color drums placed on the side of themachine. Once the screen rotates color is pour from small hole in the squgee. At the same timeMagnetic Beamsfixed under the blanket pull the rod down on the surface of the fabric and thethe rod squeezes the color poured from the squgee out on the fabic through the meshes of thescreen. The Sharpness of the colours is controlled by the magnetic pressure, which is maintained

by regulator knobs. The more magnetic force the more the spread of the color on the fabric andthe less the sharpness. The less the magnetic force the less the spread of the color on the fabricand the more the sharpness. Each screen applies different colours on the fabric till the fabric is

passed under all the screen and is completely printed.


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The fabric is then passed into the drying section of the machine through a conver belt. The fabricis dried in the drying sectionwhere oil steam is used for drying. The fabric is given 3 turns ineach drying section. There are a total of 6 drying section in this machine through which thefabric is passed and then is folder at the other end of the machine.

The blade systemcan also be used instead of the rod however the rod system gives better results

and is always recommended specially in case of export sales since as pressure in the bladesystem is manually controlled. The fabric after folding is sent on the curing machine for fixation.

Sample Printing.

Printing is also being done for sampling. However the requirement are that of the Color, Quality,Width, Length, and the type of finish required. The Inquiry is received by two differentchannels. Sample requests are raised on the SRF and are initiated by the marketing as well as arealso raised by the foreign designers who work with Gul Ahmed and the companys customers.Such is mostly that case with France and UK.

Once all information is received the fabric is printed on the KDM machine and is matched withthe standard, if the fabric comes up to the standards it is then sent for curing, and then is washedand finished. Fabric once finished is folded and is sent to sampling and then is on wards sent tothe respective party.


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FFIINNIISSHHIINNGG

he Finishing of the fabric plays a major role in the final out look. It has great significance ingiving the final touches to the fabric. It is just like polishing furniture once it has been madeready. Finishing has its own importance and technicality as several conditions provided by

the customer can only be fulfilled when the fabric is processed in finishing. Moreover thefinishing department in Gul Ahmed Textiles is also responsible for the equalizing of the fabric astage where the fabric is aligned, this is necessary especially in cases of motive printings.

Fabric Properties Controlled in Finishing and Equalizing.

Shrinkage Percentage. Skey, Cross and Bow. Pilling. Wrinkle Freeness. Construction. Hand Feel. Shi ne and Smoothness. Other F astness Properties of the Fabri c.

The Machinery.

Currently there are 6 Stenters, 4 Calendars and 1 Sanfornizer, these equipments are used duringthe process of finishing. However each machine has its own specific functions for processing.

The Stenters.

The stenters perform a number of different functions. However the main purposes of the stentersis Stretching, Straitening, Heat Setting and Finishing of the fabric. This machine is used both

before and after the printing process however in most cases of dying the stenter is used only afterthe dying process is completed. The fabric looses its actual width during the processing specially

when the fabric is passed through the pretreatment phase. As the fabric is passed through water itshrinks and looses its width. To increase the width of the fabric to the desired level the fabric isstretched on the stenters. The stenters contain troughs, which contain chemicals; the fiber isdipped in the trough and padded. Once the fabric is padded chains on each side of the fabric holdthe fabric and stretch it to the desired width. These chains then pass the fabric through theheating chamber. The heating chambers may vary in number depending upon the brand of thestenter. However the speed of the stenter is directly related to the number of heating chambersattached in he stenter. The more the heating chamber the more quickly the cloth is dried and can

be batched. Fabric is heated at a very high temperature in the heating chambers. The heat isgenerated through gas burners and is evenly spread by fans within the heating chambers. Oncethe cloth is passed through the heating chambers the chemicals are fixed on the cloth and it is

collected on the other end.

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The Stenters are used for the Equalizing of the fabric as well. Equalizing is very importantspecially in case of printing. Equalizing is done to align the Weft of the fabric. During variousstages in the pretreatment the fabric is exposed to water, chemicals, heat and pressure. Thisdistorts the alighment of the Weft ends of the fabric. A resultant problem is Bow and Skewnessof the Weft ends. Such problems in not rectified result in design deviation during printing.Stenters are used to align Weft ends so that the printed design is correctly aligned when

imprisoned on the fabric.Types of Stenters Being Used.

Stenters are also used to give the finishing properties to the fabric depending upon the desiredcustomer spec such as hand feel, in terms of softness and hardness, wrinkle freeness, and otherfastness properties of the fabric.

There are currently six types of Stenters being used in Gul Ahmed. The details are as under.

Mon Force: Width 3.2 Meters containing 10 heating chambers.Tung Yung:

Width 2.8 Meters containing 10 heating chambers.Bab Cock: Width 3.2 Meters containing 6 heating chambers.Krant 3: Width 2.8 Meters containing 5 heating chambers.Krant 1: Width 1.85 Meters containing 7 heating chambers.Krant 4: Width 1.6 Meters containing 7 heating chambers.

The Average fabric processing capacity of a stenter with 10 heating chamber is 70,000 meter perday where as for a stenter with 6 chamber its 55 to 60 thousand meters per day.


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The Calendars.

The Calendars are equipments, which mainly involve a complete physical process. The mainobjective of the calendar is to achieve the desired smoothness and shine as per the customers

specifications. The cloth is rolled and pressed on cotton and steel rollers. By pressing and rollingon the steel rollers the desired shine is created. Whereas by rolling on the cotton rollers thedesired smoothness is achieved. However the construction of each calendar is different as mainlythere are 4 calendars being used in the finishing department.

The Sanforizer.

The Sanforizer is a device used for the compaction of the fabric. Infact this device is used tocontrol the shrinkage of the fabric. Currently the device being used at the Gul Ahmed has aworking width of 1.6 meter and is thus only being used for the local fabric. For the export fabricthe compaction is being done by chemical application and heating through the stenters. The

control of the shrinkage is very important as it is an essential element in the spec provided by thecustomer.

Finishing has great significance in the over all processing of the fabric as it give the final outlook to the fabric which is essential in its presentation.


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FFIINNIISSHHEEXXPPOORRTTFFOOLLDDIINNGG

he Finish Export Folding department is mainly responsible for the inspection of the finished

fabric. The objective of this department is to highlight the defects in the fabric and bring it inthe notice of TCM and Marketing so that a course of action is decided.

The Fabric is processed in lots. A complete record is maintained for each lot starting from Greytill the final finishing. This record is maintained in a file called The Pink File. The Lab is

mainly responsible for maintaining this information on Job Cards, which are filled in the PinkFile. This record includes information about all processes executed on the lot. Moreover a lot isalso subjected to various tests during its processing stage. There is a complete record availableon the job cards for the tests conducted by the Lab department.

Once the fabric is finished and clears all necessary tests the lab approves the Pink File and sends

it to the Folding department. The lot is kept in batches and the batcher numbers and lot number isprovided to the Folding. The location of the batchers is also communicated to the folding.

Upon receiving of any file the folding first inspects and checks the file for any incompletion orrevisions so that the clarification is obtained. If the File is satisfactory a supervisor is assigned tocollect the lot from processing and bring it to the Folding department.

Machinery.

There are mainly three types of machinery being used in the Folding department.

The Inspection Folding Machine.

This machine is used the most in the folding department as its facilitates the prime function ofthe department i.e. inspection of the finished fabric. There are a total of 12 machines. The fabricis rolled over these machines and is inspected by the staff on duty.

The Black on Board Machine.

This machine is the only of its kind in the department. It is used to pack the fabric for export.Unstitched fabric is also exported from Gul Ahmed. The Black on Board Machine is used to foldthe inspected fabric using boards. This fabric is not further processed and is directly exported.

Platting Machine.

This machine is only a folding machine. It is used in case the fabric is required in a folded form.

The Inspection Process.

Once the batchers reach the folding department they are put on the Rolling Inspection Machines.Contractual staff inspects the fabric and the defects are highlighted. All lots are 100% checked.These defects comprise of any defect not only in processing but also even in weaving.

Categories of Defects.

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There are mainly 6 categories of defects.

Fresh Minor Medium Major C Grade Cut Piece

The first two categories Fresh and Minor are acceptable and can be forwarded to the warehousefor the onward delivery to the respective stitching unit. Where as the third category i.e. Mediumis held. Fabric with medium defects is shown to the TCM representative and a decision isobtained by the TCM and Marketing. If it is evaluated that the medium defected cloth can beused in stitching then Folding is given a go-ahead whereas if its not in a condition to be used it isheld. The last three categories Major, C-Grade and Cut-Piece are held and are sent to the

warehouse of dead stock.

While inspection the fabric is divided into rolls with a length of 200 to 250 meters. Separatepacking slips are made for each roll. These slips are prepared by the contractual staff on therolling machine and then are formalized by clerk in the folding department. These packing slipscontain information about the roll number, the width of the fabric, the pieces of fabric in eachroll, the length of each roll, quality etc. These rolls are prepared defect wise. Once a roll iscompleted there are four copies of the packing slip made. Once is retained by the clerk, one iskept in side the roll, one on the roll and one is retained by the department its self.

The folding department has a computerize program which is used to generate a comprehensive

report of the complete lot. The information on the packing slip is fed in the system; once all slipshave been fed a complete summary report can be generated. This report gives a detailedinformation about the lot including the lot no, the contract no, the customer order no, orderquantity, received quantity, grey width, quality, count, etc etc. However the most importantaspect of this report is that the report gives a complete over view and position of the lot. Thereport shows the defects of the lots in meters. The meters of fresh fabric, the no of meter defectedminor, the number of meters defected major etc. The movement of the lot to stitching is decidedon basis of this report. The stock is then passed on to the warehouse. At the same time the systemis updated with the delivery of lots to the warehouse. TCM then decides the movement of goods.

Some Frequently Occurring Defects.1. White Spot.2. Out Print.3. Salvage Defect.4. Weaving Patta.5. Color Stain6. Oil Stain7. Dust Stain8. Miss Print9. Color Miss10. Hole11.Patta


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12.Color Patta.13.Smudging14.Design Deviation15.White Patta16.Light Dark17.Slub18.Jala19.Kneps20.Different Quality21.Bowing22.Whitness23.Calander Mark24.Kanji25.Knots26.Contamination27.Gold Stain28.

Short Piece29.Joint Mark

30.Vibration31.C Grade32. Cut Pieces. Etc.


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Institute of Business & Technology(BIZTEK) M.Tauqeer (BEM/896)

TTHHEELL AABBOORRAATTOORRYY

he laboratory is mainly divided into three sections. These sections include:

FTS: Fabric Testing Section

RMT: Raw Materi al Testing.

Machinery and Equipment.

Below is the list of machinery and equipment used in the APS department.

The Xenon Light Fastness Tester: This device is being used to test the light fastness of the

fabric. Various shades of the fabric are put in chamber and are exposed to lamps for severalhours. The shades are then taken out and the light fastness is then measured.Auto Lab Dispenser: This device is used for color dispensing.Specto Photo Meter. The sepecto photo meter is used to give the recipe of the color.Zimmer Printing Machine. Used for Printing.Padder: This device is used for applying the color on the fabric.Dryer:As the name says is used for drying.Thermosole:The thermosole is used for the curing or fixation of the dyes.Steamer: Also used for fixation but the heat is generated through steam.Ex haust Dying Machine:Used for Exhaust dying.Coating Machine: Used for various coatings on the fabric.

FTS: Fabric Testing Section.

The Fabric Testing Section is responsible for the testing of fabric at each level. This mainly isdone to ensure the conformance of the customer standards and specs. The testing is mainlydone at two different stages: The In Process Testing Quality Control and Finish ProcessQuality Control.

The In Process Testing Quality Control.

Testing in the FTS is done when the fabric is under processing. Testing is done after eachprocess to ensure that the standards and the objectives of each process are being met. Furtherthe aim of this testing is to highlight any problems that might come during each stage and mayeffect the fabric. The testing includes the testing of grey, after pretreatment, after equalizing,after dying, and after curing and fixation. These are several parameters on which this testing isdone. These parameters may vary depending upon the process. A list of testing parameters foreach stage is mentioned below.

Testing of Grey.

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Institute of Business & Technology(BIZTEK) M.Tauqeer

The following parameters are tested of the Grey Fabric.

Construction. Count. Size Percentage. Width Blend Proportion.

Testing after the pretreatment of the fabri c.

The following parameters are tested after pretreatment.

PH. Absorbancy. Whiteness. Width. Width Drop Percentage. Piling.

Testing Af ter Equali zing.

Below are the parameters tested after equalizing.

Whiteness. Skew Percentage Bow Percentage. Width Etc.

Testing Af ter Dying.

Below are the parameters tested after dying.

Washing Fastness. PH

Testing after Curi ng.

Brushing Fastness. Rubbing Fastness. Washing Fastness.

Finish Process Quality Control.

Once the fabric is finished a number of tests are conducted to check the conformance of thefabric with the required standards. However a brief list of parameters tested at this stage as wellis given below.


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Shrinkage Piling WT/S Tear Tensile

Flameability Whiteness Washing Fastness Rubbing Fastness Brushing Fastness Light Fastness. Ph Finish Construction. Finish Count. Blend Ratio. Appearance Retention.


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QQUUAALL IITTYYAASSSSUURRAANNCCEE

he main objective of quality assurance is to ensure that the standards of quality are being

met and are in accordance with the corporate standards of Gul Ahmed Textile Mills Ltd.This is the reason why other than independent control of each and every department

involved in the complete cycle, a centralized control has been established.

Grey Inspection.

The process is the same as in case of Grey Inspection done by the Grey Fabric Inspectiondepartment. However the inspection done by the quality control department acts as a countercheck as much of the work force in the Grey Inspection Department is on Contractual Basisand scrutiny of their work is very important. Each and every lot is 7% inspected on the sameinspection criteria as followed by the Grey Inspection Department. All defects including Major

defect, Weaving, mending and washing defect are note and are evaluated under the tolarencestandards, if the defects are with in tolerance the lot is accepted else rejected.

Bleaching.

Each lot is randomly checked for both the J Box and Goller Bleaching. Once person at a time isresponsible for checking the online defects for both the machines. The fabric is inspectedduring the process and faults and defects if any are immediately highlighted. This infact help agreat deal in the production process as the probability of stopping an error when it justoccurred increases. If the defect witnessed cannot be traced are sent to the lab for analysis andfinding the causes.

Equalizing and Finishing.

These are mainly two separate processes conducted by once department. The QC departmenthas two individuals for 6 machines, each responsible for 3 machines each. Any defects arehighlighted during the online testing. If any defect is highlighted the machine supervisor isinformed and it asked to rectify the defect. Online testing of the fabric is constantly done.Various reports are prepared to analyze the conformance of the output with the standards.During equalizing the main emphasis is on the skew and bow and the whiteness.

T


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Calendar.

The calendaring is also a process in finishing. The QC is mainly responsible for the supervisionof the machine operators. The area of emphasis at this stage is the temperature of the machine,the machine pressure and the machine speed. Online testing is done and the problem in both

the fabric as well as the machine is highlighted. In case of problems with the machine or anynon-conformance the maintenance contractors are contacted to fix the problem.

Printing.

The processes followed in case of printing is the same as done in other cases there arerepresentative from the QC department who are responsible for the supervision of the eachmachine operator and the performance of each machine. In cases that the there is any problemin the function of the machine or any deviation from the results that the supervisor of themachine is immediately informed and asked to rectify the problem with the machine. Mainly

the printing machines include the range of rotary machines but the curing machine has alsosignificant and the quality is also ensured during curing as well. Reports are prepared andmaintain so that the performance of each machine can be monitored and a record is maintained.

Dying.

The same is the case with the dying process. All processes and methods are equally monitoredby the quality assurance department and any deviations are highlighted at the same time. Themain objective is to ensure that the quality is maintained at all times and the customers specsare met to ensure the customer satisfaction and thus in effect maintaining customer loyalty.


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WWAARREEHHOOUUSSEE

ll issues of the folding are update in the system as Warehouse receipts. The Warehouse ismainly responsible for the dispatches of the fabric to stitching units and for export in caseof fabric, which is directly to be exported. Both the type of dispatched have separate

packing requirement and different loading system.

Fabric for Stitching Units.

The dispatch of fabric to stitching units is controlled by the TCM. The TCM issues a memo ona daily basis and also as and when required instructing the warehouse for dispatch. The TCMhas a complete plan of dispatch; this plan is prepared by the input of Marketing as well as thePlanning department for available capacity at the stitching units. Once the lot is completelyreceived the folding report is obtained and the lot is checked for rolls to be held. All clear rollsare then ready for the dispatch to the stitching unit. The lot along with all documents is thendispatched as per plan. A gate pass is prepared and signed by the warehouse in charge. Thedocuments include the Gate Pass, Folding Report, and Packing slip of each roll. Thetransportation in this case is arranged by the warehouse its self.

Export Fabric.

In case of export there is great significance of documentation. The shipping departmentprepares the documents. The TCM is in liaison with the Warehouse and the Shipping

department of the dispatch. However the warehouse is not provided a memo by the TCM ratherthe TCM gives a verbal intimation to the Warehouse about the status of the dispatch. Once theexport documents are ready they are provided to the Warehouse by the shipping department.These document include the Invoice the Packing List, the necessary shipping marks to memarked on the consignment. Based on these document the marking is done by the Warehouse.The shipping department in this case arranges the transport. Once the container arrives it isloaded the gate pass is prepared and approved and the stock leaves the company premises.

A


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Goods Movement and Stacking.

Goods Movement is recorded on a daily basis, all issued are recorded and updated daily. Thestock is stacked contract wise however there is capacity constraint in the warehouse as the

capacity of the warehouse is twelve-lac meter however in peak seasons the stacking reacheseven 20 lacs. More over if sufficient capacity is available at the warehouse the stacking can bemuch organized and less time consuming.

In case of local fabric there is no concept of folding or lot number and the fabric is packsscreen name wise. The dispatch of local fabric is only made to the West Wharf Warehouse.


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CCOONNFFEECCTTIIOONN

ul Ahmed Textile Mills have a very well established Confection Portfolio ranges fromStitching to Quilting, Embroidery and Specialized Kids Articles. The Articlesmanufactured at these facilities include, beddings, curtains, Quilts, kitchen textiles etc.

These are two stitching units, which are ISO Certified as well. These Stitching units includeGST, H7, H7-2, H7-3, H7-4, H7-5, LSU1, M Field, and the F.B. Area Stitching unit.

The Stitching Process:

The Stitching process is initiated when the fabric is finished and a cutting letter is forwarded by

the Marketing to the respective stitching units. At the same time the TCM dispatched theFabric to the respective Stitching unit from the Fabric Warehouse. The Fabric is lay for cutting.Currently the laying is done both manual as well as the automated process. H7, H7-2 and LSU-1 currently have an Automated laying system. The laying is usually done for 250 folds at atime. Once the Laying is done the required markings are made on the fabric and a Bed Knife isthen used for cutting. This knife had a 10 Blade that cuts through the cloth very easily. Oncethe fabric cutting is done the cut pieces are put on a trawlee. These pieces are put on thetrawlee after size wise segregation. The trawlees are then passed on to the stitching machineswhere the articles are stitched. Once the articles are stitched they are inspected thoroughly forany defects. This inspection is infact the final inspection and includes the inspection for alltypes of defects including, weaving, processing and off course stitching defects.

All articles, which are defected, are held. Articles, which have minor defects, are touched andrestitched so that the wastage is minimized. Once the inspection is complete the fabric is sentfor the packing. All packing requirement are fulfilled in the packing department in which theArticles are packed with using Inlay cards, Photo Cards, etc. Once the Articles are packed theyare put in cartons and the Cartons are labeled with the Shipping Markets, Weight etc. Once thestock is packed in cartons it is ready for shipment.


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Types of Stitching Machines.

The Stitching machines currenlty being used in the stitching facility includes:

Single Needle Machine. Double Needle Machine. Board On Machine. F lat Lock Machine.

All these machines have different stitching patterns. The pattern of stitching may vary fromplain stitch to making holes in the fabric while stitching. The pattern of stitching and theparameters are all defined in the cutting letter and are done in accordance with the customerspecifications. Each machine operator is required to stick a label on the article. This label isnothing but a number given to the operator so that in case of any defect the person responsiblecan be pointed out. At the same time washing labels are also stitching on the Articles at thesame time.

Beddings.

Beddings are currently being stitched at H7, H7-2, H7-3, H7-4, LSU-1, M Field and at F.B.Area. The procedure is pretty much standard as explained above. However LSU1 is ISOCertified and thus the standards being implemented at the stitching units are exemplary.Beddings are Articles, which are most extensively produced and have the largest share in overall Gul Ahmed Sales.

Curtains.

Curtains are currently being stitched at H7-5, M Field and GST, At H7-5 a completelyautomated machine have been erected which facilitates the stitching process to a great extent.Its infact an automated trawlee with Forty stations on which the fabric can be stopped andstitched. Its called the Sma

Documents

Operation Management Report (Textile) MBA