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ONTARIO QUÉBEC C ISLAND A N A D A NEW Montréal · the whole Island of Montréal. † An in-depth look at the city’s cultural and historic treasures, with thorough descriptions

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Page 1: ONTARIO QUÉBEC C ISLAND A N A D A NEW Montréal · the whole Island of Montréal. † An in-depth look at the city’s cultural and historic treasures, with thorough descriptions

£14.99$22.95 USD$24.95 CAD

Lively, eclectic, cosmopolitan!Montréal’s cultural diversity and seemingly boundless energy make it one of North America’s most fascinating cities. Québec’s metropolis boasts scores of charming attractions and hidden treasures that have been compiled in this new edition of Ulysses’ travel guide. Visitors and Montrealers alike will discover or rediscover the city’s hottest spots: eclectic restaurants, friendly neighbourhood pubs and cafés, colourful boutiques and the rich heritage of Montréal’s centuries-old buildings. Get the most out of this unique city with the Ulysses Travel Guide Montréal.

This guidebook features:• 18 updated and revised walking, cycling or driving tours that cover

the whole Island of Montréal.

• An in-depth look at the city’s cultural and historic treasures, with thorough descriptions and ratings of its attractions, as well as a new thematic section that will help you make the most of your stay in Montréal.

• More than 75 hotels, 250 restaurants and 70 bars and nightspots, for every taste and budget.

• A whole chapter devoted to shopping in Montréal, to help you uncover that perfect catch.

• Over 40 detailed maps, completely revised and improved to help you find your way around the island.

The Ulysses Travel Guide Montréal, written by Montrealers for Montrealers… and their guests!

Tr a v e l b e t t e r , e n j o y m o r e

Montréal

www.ulyssesguides.com

Toronto

Niagara Falls

Halifax

Toronto

Niagara Falls

Ottawa

Québec City

New YorkChicago

Boston ATLANTICOCEAN

ONTARIO

NEWBRUNSWICK

PRINCEEDWARDISLANDC A N A D A

QUÉBEC

NOVASCOTIA

UNITED STATES

MONTRÉAL

ULYSSES

ULYSSESM

ontréal

ISBN: 978-289464-797-4

Extrait de la publication

Page 2: ONTARIO QUÉBEC C ISLAND A N A D A NEW Montréal · the whole Island of Montréal. † An in-depth look at the city’s cultural and historic treasures, with thorough descriptions

0 125 250m

PEEL McGILL

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MontréalNot to be missedWorth a visitInteresting

DOWNTOWN

MountRoyalPark

MontréalMuseum ofFine Arts

McGillUniversity

St. Patrick’sBasilica

ChristChurchCathedral

McCordMuseum

RedpathMuseum

Royal VictoriaHospital

Metro Station

Intermodal Station

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COMMUTER TRAINSTO SAINT-JÉRÔME

COMMUTER TRAINSTO DEUX-MONTAGNES

COMMUTER TRAINSTO DORION/RIGAUD

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COMMUTER TRAINSTO MONT-SAINT-HILAIRE

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www.u lyssesgu ides .comULYSSESTravel better, enjoy more

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Page 3: ONTARIO QUÉBEC C ISLAND A N A D A NEW Montréal · the whole Island of Montréal. † An in-depth look at the city’s cultural and historic treasures, with thorough descriptions

Île Sainte-Hélène

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PlaceJacques-Cartier

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Notre-Dame

ComplexeGuy-Favreau

HôpitalSaint-Luc

PlaceDupuis

Palais dejustice

Square Viger

Champ-de-Mars

Quaide l'Horloge

Quai des Convoyeurs

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justiceSir-George-Étienne-CartierNational Historic Site

ChapelleNotre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours

St. Lawrence River

Extrait de la publication

Page 4: ONTARIO QUÉBEC C ISLAND A N A D A NEW Montréal · the whole Island of Montréal. † An in-depth look at the city’s cultural and historic treasures, with thorough descriptions

TERREBONNE

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N

0 1 2km

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A. Vieux-MontréalB. DowntownC. Montréal Museum of Fine ArtsD. The Golden Square MileE. Shaughnessy VillageF. The Milton-Parc District and The Main

G. Quartier LatinH. The VillageI. Plateau Mont-RoyalJ. Mount RoyalK. WestmountL. Outremont and Mile-End

M. Little ItalyN. Sault-au-RécolletO. Île Sainte-Hélène and Île Notre-DameP. Hochelaga-MaisonneuveQ. Around the Lachine CanalR. West Island and Surroundings

Suggested Tours Not to be missedWorth a visitInteresting

TERR

EBON

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BO

ISB

RIA

NDTORONTO

DORVAL Suburban towns

Pierrefonds The city of Montréal and its boroughs

Page 5: ONTARIO QUÉBEC C ISLAND A N A D A NEW Montréal · the whole Island of Montréal. † An in-depth look at the city’s cultural and historic treasures, with thorough descriptions

MontréalTenth Edition

“Between the St. Lawrence River and its tributary...a lovely plateau...is situated...amid grasslands...with birds of many different colours whose songs tamed our French peoplein this wilderness.”

Histoire du Montréal, 1640-1672François Dollier de Casson (1636-1701),Sulpicien and Seigneur of the Island of Montréal.

Montréal’s fi rst historian, François Dollier de Casson compiled his Histoire du Montréal between 1672 and 1673, from which this description of the site on which Montréal was built (present-day Pointe-à-Callière) is taken.

Tr a v e l b e t t e r , e n j o y m o r eExtrait de la publication

Page 6: ONTARIO QUÉBEC C ISLAND A N A D A NEW Montréal · the whole Island of Montréal. † An in-depth look at the city’s cultural and historic treasures, with thorough descriptions

Library and Archives Canada Cataloguing in Publication

Main entry under title :

Montréal

(Ulysses travel guide) Translation of: Montréal. Includes index.

ISSN 1483-2666 ISBN 978-2-89464-797-4

1. Montréal (Québec) - Guidebooks. I. Series.

FC2947.18.M5613 917.14’28045 C97-302253-1

Guide UpdateMarie-Josée Guy

Research, Writing and Contributors to Previous EditionsFrançois Rémillard (Exploring)Benoit Prieur (Portrait)Julie Brodeur, Pierre Daveluy, Daniel Desjardins, Ambrose Gabriel, Bernadette Hocke, Alain Legault, Élodie Luquet

PublisherOlivier Gougeon

Production DirectorAndré Duchesne

Translation and Copy EditingCindy Garayt

Computer GraphicsMarie-France DenisPierre Ledoux

CartographersPascal Biet

PhotographyCover pageAntoine Rouleau / Dreamstime.comInside pages© Alain Laforest, photographer / Parquet-Centre CDP Capital© Christine Guest, MMFA© Dreamstime.com / Andre Nantel, Jean-François Dupuis, Antoine Rouleau© iStockphoto.com / Victor Kapas, Anneclaire Le Royer© Martine Doyon – Quartier des spectacles© McCord Museum of Canadian History© Pascal Biet© Philippe Renault© Photo UQAM© Pierre Guzzo, Maison Saint-Gabriel© Productions Train d’enfer© Richard Duchesne© Sean O’Neil© Université de Montréal© www.boulevardsaintlaurent.com

No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means, including photocopying, without the written permission of the publisher.

© May 2007, Ulysses Travel GuidesAll rights reserved Printed in CanadaISBN 978-2-89464-797-4

Acknowledgements We acknowledge the fi nancial support of the Government of Canada through the Book Publish-ing Industry Development Program (BPIDP) for our publishing activities. We would also like to thank the Government of Québec for its tax credit for book publishing administered by SODEC.

Extrait de la publication

Page 7: ONTARIO QUÉBEC C ISLAND A N A D A NEW Montréal · the whole Island of Montréal. † An in-depth look at the city’s cultural and historic treasures, with thorough descriptions

3

Table of Contents

Tabl

e of

Con

tent

s

List of Maps 5Map Symbols 6Symbols Used In This Guide 6

My Montréal! 7Montréal In Due Time 8Montréal À La Carte 9

Where is Montréal? 12

Portrait 13Geography 14History 15The Language Question 26Economy and Politics 27Montréal’s Communities 29Four Seasons and As Many Faces 30Literature and Theatre 32Dance 34Film 34Music 36Visual Arts 36Circus Arts 37Architecture 39

Practical Information 41Entrance Formalities 42Getting There and Getting Around 42Useful Information, from A to Z 48

Exploring 41Vieux-Montréal 60Downtown 74Montreal Museum of Fine Arts 86The Golden Square Mile 89Shaughnessy Village 98The Milton-Parc District and “The Main” 102Quartier Latin 107The Village 112Plateau Mont-Royal 118Mount Royal 121Westmount 126

Outremont and Mile-End 129Little Italy 136Sault-au-Récollet 139Île Sainte-Hélène and Île Notre-Dame 142Hochelaga-Maisonneuve 146Around the Lachine Canal 152West Island and Surroundings 162

Outdoors 173Parks 174Outdoor Activities 177

Accommodations 185Vieux-Montréal 188Downtown and Golden Square Mile 192Shaughnessy Village 199The Milton-Parc District and “The Main” 200Quartier Latin 200The Village 203Plateau Mont-Royal 204Notre-Dame-de-Grâce 205Côte-des-Neiges 205Hochelaga-Maisonneuve 206West Island and Surroundings 206

Restaurants 209Vieux-Montréal 211Downtown and Golden Square Mile 215Shaughnessy Village 220The Milton-Parc District and “The Main” 220Quartier Latin 226The Village 228Plateau Mont-Royal 230Westmount, Notre-Dame-de-Grâce and Côte-des-Neiges 236Outremont and Mile-End 238Little Italy 243Sault-au-Récollet 247Île Sainte-Hélène and Île Notre-Dame 248Hochelaga-Maisonneuve 250Around the Lachine Canal 250West Island and Surroundings 252

Page 8: ONTARIO QUÉBEC C ISLAND A N A D A NEW Montréal · the whole Island of Montréal. † An in-depth look at the city’s cultural and historic treasures, with thorough descriptions

4Ta

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A Cultural Walk in the Quartier International de Montréal 85

Children’s Favourite Attractions in Montréal 72

Cimetière Notre-Dame-des-Neiges 123

Daniel Langlois and Ex-Centris 106

Festivals and Cultural Events 271

Gay Pride 113

Get an Eyeful! 148

Growing up English in Montreal 94

Jean-Paul Riopelle 84

Jewish Communities 132

Maisonneuve, Founder of Montréal 17

Montréal’s Outdoor Museum 69

Phyllis Lambert and the CCA 40

The 1701 Great Peace of Montréal 19

The Colourful Festivals of the Quartier Latin 108

The Montreal Jazz Fest 82

The Refus Global 33

The Tam-Tams 122

The Trials and Tribulations of the Olympic Park 150

Underground City 77

Urban Atmospheres and Colours 31

Entertainment 259Bars and Nightclubs 260Cultural Activities 268Gaming and Activities 270Sporting Events 270Health and Well-Being 271

Shopping 275Montréal’s Main Shopping Streets 276Antiques 277Art 277Children 278Cigars 279Computers 279Curiosities 279Electronics 279Fashion 280Food 282

Gifts 285Home Decor 286Jewellery 288Music 288Outdoor Equipment 289Pet Stores 289Reading 289Sex Shops 290Travel Accessories 291

Appendix 293Index 294English-French Glossary 304Our Guides 312Table of Distances 319Weights and Measures 319Map Symbols 320Symbols Used In This Guide 320

List of In-Depth Articles

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List

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aps

Côte-des-NeigesAccommodations 206

DowntownAttractions 75

Downtown and Golden Square Mile

Accommodations 195Restaurants 217

Montréal’s Fortifi cations circa 1750 18

General Orientation 318

Golden Square MileAttractions 91

Hochelaga-MaisonneuveAccommodations 206Attractions 147Restaurants 249

Île Sainte-Hélène and Île Notre-Dame

Attractions 143Restaurants 248

Island of Montréal and Surroundings 11

Lachine Canal (around the);Little Burgundy and Saint-Henri

Attractions 153Restaurants 251

Lachine Canal (around the);Pointe-Saint-Charles and Verdun

Attractions 159Restaurants 252

Little ItalyAttractions 137Restaurants 244

The Milton-Parc District and “The Main”

Accommodations 201Attractions 105Restaurants 223

Mount RoyalAttractions 125

Outremont and Mile-EndAttractions 130Restaurants 239

Plateau Mont-RoyalAccommodations 205Attractions 119Restaurants 233

Quartier LatinAccommodations 202Attractions 111Restaurants 227

Sault-au-RécolletAttractions 141Restaurants 246

Shaughnessy VillageAccommodations 199Attractions 99Restaurants 221

Vieux-MontréalAccommodations 191Attractions 63Restaurants 213

The VillageAccommodations 204Attractions 115Restaurants 229

West Island and SurroundingsAttractions 167Restaurants 254

West Island and Surroundings;Lachine

Attractions 163Restaurants 253

WestmountAttractions 128

Westmount, Notre-Dame-de-Grâce and Côte-des-Neiges

Restaurants 237

List of Maps

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6M

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o Fax number

g Fireplace

d Fitness centre

f Kitchenette

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h Mosquito net

i Parking

s Pets allowed

j Pool

pb/sb Private and shared bathrooms

k Refrigerator

m Restaurant

n Sauna

sb Shared bathroom

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p Telephone number

4 Travel by bike

6 Travel by bus

5 Travel by car

3 Travel by foot

7 Travel by metro

ù Ulysses favourite

t Wheelchair access

b Whirlpool

Attraction Classifi cation

Not to be missed Worth a visit Interesting

Accommodation Classifi cationUnless otherwise noted, all prices indicated in this guide apply to a standard room for two people in peak season.

$ less than $60$$ from $60 to $100$$$ from $101 to $150$$$$ from $151 to $225$$$$$ more than $225

Restaurant Classifi cationPrices in this guide are for a meal for one person, excluding taxes and tip.

$ less than $15$$ $15 to $25$$$ $26 to $50$$$$ more than $50

All prices in this guide are in Canadian dollars.

This guide’s practical section features a grey border and lists this destination’s useful addresses. You can

refer to the following pictograms to fi nd theinformation you need:

Accommodations

Restaurants

Entertainment

Shopping

Sea, lake, river

Forest or park

National capital

Provincial or state capital

International border

Provincial or regional border

Map SymbolsAttractionsAccommodations

Restaurants

Place

Tunnel

Train track

Beach

Bike path

Museum

ULYSSES bookstore

Lookout

Metro station

Car ferry

Passenger ferry

Train station

Building

Suggested tour

Optional tour

Stairs

Hospital

Internationalairport

Touristinformation

Bus station

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You only have a few days to discover Montréal and its secrets? You love nature, architecture or history? Whatever the length of your stay or your personal interests, this selection of at-

tractions will help you plan the trip you want to make. Get ready to discover your Montréal!

My

Montréal!

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Montréal In Due Time

One Day

To get a taste of Québec’s metropolis, head to Vieux-Montréal for a stroll along Rue Saint-Paul, a charming cobblestone street that is lined with art galleries; visit the Basi-lique Notre-Dame, a masterpiece of Gothic Revival architecture, and the Centre d’Histoire de Montréal, to learn more about the origins of Ville-Marie. Toast the Happy Hour in one of the Quartier International’s happening bars, then head to lively Rue Sainte-Cath-erine, the city’s famous shopping mecca. Finally, if you’d like to discover the artists who’ve made their mark on Canadian art, you can visit the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts and the Musée d’Art Contemporain.

Two Days

A two-day stay means you’ll get to dine at least once in one of the city’s many re-nowned restaurants. Make sure you head up “The Main” to take in the colourful and eclectic crowd that provides the city with much of its cosmopolitan spirit. You can follow this up with a trek down the residential lanes and lively Avenue du Mont-Royal of the Plateau Mont-Royal neighbourhood, the perfect introduction to Francophone Montréal. Next, set your sights on the city’s green lung, Mount Royal Park, for a breath-taking view of the city. Devout Catholics and architecture buffs can visit the Oratoire Saint-Joseph, one of the most visited religious sites in all of Canada.

One Week

Once you’ve explored all of the above attractions, you can set some time aside to vis-it two of the city’s well-to-do areas. First up is Westmount, a primarily English-speaking city within the city that features attractive Neo-Tudor residences that provide the area with an undeniably British fl avour. Next is the Francophone counterpart to West-mount, Outremont, whose commercial arteries, lined with gourmet shops and fashion boutiques, border the the city’s latest boho-hip district: Mile-End.

If architectural feats are what you’re looking for, you can climb to the top of the world’s highest leaning tower at the Olympic Stadium: once up top, you’ll marvel at the view of eastern Montréal and the famous Jacques-Cartier Bridge. The Botanical Garden and the Biodôme, both also located right by in the Hochelaga-Maisonneuve district, offer a fascinating look at our natural world thanks to their faithful replicas of various ecosystems, theme gardens and exhibition greenhouses.

Both the western part of the island and the Old Port are perfect for cyclists: you can rent a bike and visit the shores of the Lachine Canal, the birthplace of Canadian indus-try, or Île Sainte-Hélène and Île Notre-Dame, whose stunning Biosphère, a geodesic dome that features an environmental observation centre, can be seen from afar.

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Montréal à la carte à la carte

Historic Montréal

On the origins of the city: Pointe-à-Callière, an archaeological and historical museum whose multimedia presentation provides an overview of the various stages of the founding of Montréal; the Musée du Château Ramezay, which served as a residence to the colony’s fi rst French administrators and, later, to insurgent Americans; the Musée Stewart, which is located at the Fort de l’Île Sainte-Hélène, takes visitors back in time to the conquest of the New World.

On the city’s economic and political past: the Fur Trade at Lachine National Historic Site examines the fur trade, the lucrative commerce that spearheaded the city’s economic development; Pied-du-Courant prison, where the Patriotes were executed in 1838 after having rebelled against the British Crown and fought for the emancipation of Qué-bec.

On the life of the city’s residents: the McCord Museum of Canadian History, to learn everything about Montréal’s day-to-day life during the 18th and 19th centuries; the Centre d’Histoire de Montréal, whose exhibits shine a spotlight on the different cultural communities that inhabit the city’s neighbourhoods.

Cultural Montréal

The Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, where you’ll fi nd masterpieces from every period of art history, from Antiquity to contemporary design.

The Musée d’Art Contemporain, which features the most important collection of works by Québécois artist Paul-Émile Borduas, among many other treasures.

TOHU, la Cité des Arts du Cirque, which is well on its way to placing Montréal at the head of the world’s circus capitals.

Place des Arts, a cultural complex which is home to prestigious Québec dance and the-atre companies. Its esplanade serves as the stage for some of the city’s most important festivals, including the renowned Festival International de Jazz de Mont réal.

Montréal, City of One Hundred Belltowers

Imposing churches: Basilique Notre-Dame, a masterpiece of Gothic Revival architecture; Cathédrale Marie-Reine-du-Monde, whose architectural style was inspired by St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome; Oratoire Saint-Joseph, an important pilgrimage site which welcomes millions of visitors every year.

Beautiful churches hidden by downtown Montréal’s skyscrapers: St. James United Church and its recently uncovered facade, in the heart of lively Rue Sainte-Catherine; Basilique Saint-Patrick, which was built for the city’s Irish Catholic community; the Renaissance Revival-style Église du Gesù.

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Testaments to Montrealers’ religious faith: the Medieval-style St. Andrew and St. Paul Presbyterian Church, which was built for the city’s well-to-do Scottish community; Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste, whose construction was made possible by donations made by the Plateau Mont-Royal’s working class residents; St. George’s Anglican Church, a sandstone Gothic Revival architectural marvel.

Green Montréal

Craving green, wide-open spaces? Mount Royal Park is the city’s veritable “green lung;” Parc Jean-Drapeau, whose gardens and canals criss-cross Île Notre-Dame, is the perfect spot for a picnic; Île-de-la-Visitation and Cap-Saint-Jacques Nature Parks offer strollers and cross-country skiers charming trails within 30min of downtown Montréal.

To delve deeper into environmental issues: the Biodôme features replicas of various ecosystems that range from tropical forests to polar landscapes; the Biosphère, a stun-ning steel structure which houses an observation centre on Canada’s different eco-systems; the Botanical Garden, where visitors can explore some thirty theme gardens, including the splendid Jardin de Chine.

Multicultural Montréal

Montréal is home to a mosaic of cultural communities which you can discover while exploring the island’s various neighbourhoods. Among these are Little Italy, where Ital-ian immigrants settled after World War II, and which now boasts the lively trattorias, cafes and gourmet shops that surround the Marché Jean-Talon, and the city’s small Chinatown, whose main pedestrian artery abounds with boutiques and restaurants.

Festive Montréal

Popular festivals: the Festival International de Jazz de Montréal, when the city swings to the rhythm of indoor and outdoor shows given by some of the biggest names in music; the Just for Laughs Festival, an annual summer event that features comedy’s most renowned acts.

Spectacular events: Île Sainte-Hélène plays host to some of the world’s foremost fi reworks artists during the International des Feux Loto-Québec; the Montréal High Lights Festival, when some of the city’s most impressive buildings are lit up to celebrate the magic of Montréal’s winter nights.

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0º Latitude (equator)

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Montréal

PopulationMetropolitan Area:3,574,000 inhabitantsIsland of Montréal:1,814,170 inhabitants

AreaIsland of Montréal: 499km²

Time ZoneGMT –5

ClimateAverage temperature:January: –10°C(record low: –37,8°C in 1957)July: 21°C(record high: 37,6°C in 1975)Average precipitation:214cm of snow736cm of rain

Toronto

Ottawa

Fredericton

Halifax

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Saguenay

Gaspé

Sept-Îles

Trois-Rivières

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Québec City

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Highest SummitNatural: Mont Royal, at 233mUrban: the 1000 De La Gauchetière building, at 205m

LanguagesMontréal is the second larg-est Francophone city in the world after Paris.Percentage of population for whom French is the fi rst language: 67,7%Percentage of population for whom English is the fi rst language: 12,6%

Allophone population: 19,7%

Cultural DiversityMore than a quarter of Montréal residents are im-migrants.The city’s largest ethnic communities are Italian, Irish, English, Scottish, Haitian, Chinese and Greek.

12

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Dance 34

Film 34

Music 36

Visual Arts 36

Circus Arts 37

Architecture 39

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Both Latin and Nordic, European and North American, cosmo-politan and metropolitan, the largest French-speaking city in the world after Paris and bilingual hub, Montréal is defi nitely

an exceptional city. Visitors to the city appreciate it for many different reasons; it succeeds in delighting American tourists with its European charm and also manages to surprise overseas travellers thanks to its haphazard character and nonchalance. Above all, Montréal holds nothing back and visitors often fi nd what they are looking for without having to search too far.

Montréal is a city that exists in a balance between several different worlds: fi rmly planted in America yet looking towards Europe, claimed by two lands, Québec and Canada, and always, it seems, in the midst of social, economic and demographic changes.

It is diffi cult to defi ne this city, especially since no postcard or cliché truly succeeds in evoking an image of it that is realistic or honest. If Paris has its grand boulevards and squares, New York its skyscrapers and celebrated Statue of Liberty, what best symbolizes Montréal? Its numerous and beautiful churches, its Olympic Stadium, or its opulent Victorian residences?

Despite Montréal’s rich architectural heritage, it is above all its unique, engaging atmosphere that appeals to people. Montréal is an enchanting city to visit and an exhilarating place to discover; it is generous, friendly and not at all mundane.

And when the time comes to celebrate jazz, fi lm, comedy, francophone singers or Saint-Jean-Baptiste Day, hundreds of thousands of people fl ood into the streets, turn-ing events into warm public gatherings. There is no doubt that Montréal is a big city that has managed to keep its human touch. For while its towering glass-and-concrete silhouette gives it the appearance of a North-American metropolis, Montréal has trouble hiding the fact that it is primarily a city of small streets and unique neigh-bourhoods, each with its own church, businesses, restaurants, and bars—in short, its own personality, shaped over the years by the arrival of people from all corners of the globe.

Elusive and mysterious, Montréal is nevertheless genuine, and is as mystical for those who experience it on a daily basis as it is for visitors immersed in it for only a few days.

GeographyTo fully understand Montréal’s role in the history of the American continent, one must fi rst look at the amazing assets of its location. Situated on an island in the St. Lawrence River, the main entry point to the American Northeast, Montréal stands on a spot where maritime traffi c encounters its fi rst major obstacle, the Lachine Rapids. Blocking all navigation, the rapids once forced navigators to stop in Montréal if they wished to travel any further on the river.

From an economic standpoint, this geographical quirk gave the site, both in Native times and during the French and British regimes, an undeniable advantage: that of being the fi rst mandatory transhipment site on the river. Nature therefore irrevocably chose Montréal’s vocation by making it the entrance to a vast territory and, con-sequently, a commercial crossroads for the whole continent.

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15Blue Montréal

The island of Montréal is formed by the St. Lawrence River and the Rivière des Prai-ries, which fl ows into the St. Lawrence at the eastern tip of the island. These two magnifi cent rivers are well known for the many islands that dot their waters.

Between Lac Saint-Louis, at the western tip of the island, and the Pointe-aux-Trem-bles neighbourhood in the east, the St. Lawrence River, which fl ows to the Atlantic Ocean, runs along the southern shore of the island. In the LaSalle borough, it sud-denly transforms into the tumultuous Lachine rapids.

Between Lac des Deux Montagnes, at the western tip of the island, and the Rivière-des-Prairies district, in the east, the Rivière des Prairies runs along the northern shore of the island. Its fl ow is controlled by the Rivière-des-Prairies hydroelectric power plant, in the Sault-au-Récollet sector.

In addition, several bridges for cars and trains, as well as the Louis-Hippolyte-La Fontaine tunnel, link the island of Montréal to Île Jésus and the regions of Montérégie and Lanaudière. Two métro tunnels also link the island to its two largest neighbour-ing cities, Laval to the north and Longueuil to the south.

Green Montréal

All around the island of Montréal, part of the St. Lawrence’s and the Rivière des Prairies’ shores have been, for the past few years, converted into green spaces. These public riverside parks, known as nature parks, are a great addition to the vast urban parks and multitude of small parks that are found in each of the island’s neighbour-hoods.

The most well-known and visible of Montréal’s big parks is Mount Royal Park, whose spectacular size, right in the middle of the island, is defi nitely eye catching. All year long, city dwellers climb “the mountain” for fun, to enjoy the view it offers from its lookouts, or simply to keep fi t.

A blend of untamed and domesticated nature, the Montréal Botanical Garden, one of the largest in the world, is located in the central eastern part of the island and welcomes both visitors and a wide array of bird species throughout the year. For its part, the Morgan Arboretum, a huge forest preserve located in the western part of the island, is home to various wild animals, including mammals, reptiles, amphibians and birds, in addition to majestic trees.

History

Origins

Before the regional balance was disrupted by the arrival of European explorers, what is known today as the island of Montréal was inhabited by the Iroquois nation. This people had probably recognized the location’s exceptional qualities, which enabled it to fl ourish by dominating the St. Lawrence valley and by playing the role of com-mercial intermediary for the entire region.

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16In 1535 and 1541, Jacques Cartier, a navigator from Saint-Malo in the service of the king of France, became the fi rst European to briefl y explore the island. He took the opportunity to climb the mountain rising out of its centre, which he christened Mont Royal. (Following Jacques Cartier’s 1535 voyage, an Italian named Giovanni Battista Ramusio, born in 1485, analyzed Cartier’s discoveries and published Delle Navigationo et Viaggi in 1556, a work that included a map, called La Terra de Hochelaga nella Nova Francia, of the Mount Royal region, which he translated in Italian as Monte Real, the origins of “Montréal.”)

In his ship’s log, Cartier also mentioned a short visit to a large Aboriginal village ap-parently located on the side of the mountain. Inhabited by approximately 1,500 Iro-quois, this village consisted of about 50 large dwellings protected by a high wooden palisade. All around, the villagers cultivated corn, squash and beans, thus meeting most of the dietary needs of their sedentary population. Unfortunately, Cartier left only a partial and sometimes contradictory account of this community, so that even today, the exact location of the village, as well as the name by which the Iroquois referred to it (Hochelaga or Tutonaguy), remain unknown.

Another enduring mystery that still gives rise to much speculation is the astonishing and quick disappearance of this village after Cartier’s visits. Some 70 years later, in 1603, when Samuel de Champlain travelled through the region, he found no trace of the Iroquoian community described by Cartier. The most popular hypothesis is that the Aboriginal people of the island of Montréal had fallen victim to trade rivals and fi nally been driven away from the island.

Champlain, the founder of New France, took an interest in the location’s potential. In 1611, just three years after founding Québec City, he ordered that an area be cleared on the island. He viewed this spot, named Place Royale, as the starting point of a new colony or an outpost for the fur trade.

The project had to be postponed, however, since at the time the French, allied with the Algonquin and Huron, had to cope with attacks by the Five Nations of the Iro-quois Confederacy. Supported by the merchants of New Amsterdam (which would later become New York), the Confederation was trying to seize complete control of the fur trade.

The founding of Montréal was thus delayed for a number of years and is not attribut-able to the efforts of Samuel de Champlain, who died in 1635.

Ville-Marie (1642-1665)

The fur trade was the primary reason for the French colonization of Canada in those years; however, it does not appear to have been at the origin of the founding of Montréal.

The city, initially christened Ville-Marie, was established by a group of pious French men and women strongly infl uenced by the Jesuits’ accounts of their time in America, as well as by the currents of religious revival that were then affecting Europe. Driven by idealism, they wanted to establish a small colony on the island in the hopes of converting natives and creating a new Christian society.

Paul de Chomedey, Sieur de Maisonneuve, was chosen to oversee this venture, and was later designated governor of the new colony. Heading an expedition of about 50 people, including Jeanne Mance, de Maisonneuve arrived in America in 1641

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Lively, eclectic, cosmopolitan!Montréal’s cultural diversity and seemingly boundless energy make it one of North America’s most fascinating cities. Québec’s metropolis boasts scores of charming attractions and hidden treasures that have been compiled in this new edition of Ulysses’ travel guide. Visitors and Montrealers alike will discover or rediscover the city’s hottest spots: eclectic restaurants, friendly neighbourhood pubs and cafés, colourful boutiques and the rich heritage of Montréal’s centuries-old buildings. Get the most out of this unique city with the Ulysses Travel Guide Montréal.

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• A whole chapter devoted to shopping in Montréal, to help you uncover that perfect catch.

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The Ulysses Travel Guide Montréal, written by Montrealers for Montrealers… and their guests!

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ISBN: 978-289464-797-4

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