Ontario

Ontario

This guidebook featuresAn in-depth look at the province’s cultural and historic treasures, with thorough descriptions and ratings, as well as a new thematic section that will help you better plan your itineraries and organize your time.

The inside scoop on the best accommodations and restaurants for every budget.

Complete information on the province’s parks and reserves and the many outdoor activities that can be enjoyed in them.

Precise maps and all the practical information you’ll need to find your way around Ontario.

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From Heartland to Hinterland, Experience All of Ontario!

Here’s the new and completely revised edition of the Ulysses Travel Guide Ontario, the most complete guide to this Canadian province.

Travel through the charming 19th-century villages that dot the banks of the St. Lawrence River and the shores of the Great Lakes. Fall under the spell of the modern cities of Ottawa, the nation’s capital, and Toronto, its proudly multicultural metropolis. Discover all of Ontario’s stunning natural splendours, from the majestic Niagara Falls to the sprawling beaches on Lake Huron and the untamed landscape of the Canadian Shield.

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ULYSSES

£17.99$28.95 USD$32.95 CAD

ISBN:978-289464-773-8

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Sixth Edition

Out on the lake the last thin threads of the mistare clearing away like fl ecks of cotton wool.

The long call of the loon echoes over the lake.The air is cool and fresh. There is in it all the newlife of land of the silent pine and the moving waters.

- Stephen LeacockSunshine Sketches of a Little Town

Pascale Couture

Ontario

Tr a v e l b e t t e r , e n j o y m o r e

Bibliothèque et Archives nationales du Québec and Library and Archives Canada cataloguing in publication

Couture, Pascale, 1966-

Ontario

6th ed.

(Ulysses travel guide) Translation of: Ontario. Includes index.

ISBN 978-2-89464-773-8

1. Ontario - Guidebooks. 2. Ontario - Tours. I. Title. II. Series.

FC3057.C6813 2007 917.1304’5 C2006-941288-X

AuthorPascale Couture

PublisherOlivier Gougeon

Production DirectorAndré Duchesne

Copy EditingMatthew McLauchlin

TranslatorCindy Garayt

Computer GraphicsMarie-France DenisPierre Ledoux

CartographerBradley Fenton

PhotographyCover pageSpring tulips in Ottawa© Masterfi le / Bill BrooksInside pages© Ontario Tourism© Dreamstime.com/ Artur Jan, Elena Elisseeva, Sergey Ivanov © Philippe Renault

No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means, including photocopying, without the written permission of the publisher.

© June 2007, Ulysses Travel GuidesAll rights reserved Printed in CanadaISBN 13 978-2-89464-773-8

AcknowledgementsThe author would like to thank Benoit Prieur for his assistance, as well as her children, Maxence and Alicia, for their patience and good cheer during the long trips. She would also like to thank Pierre David.

We acknowledge the fi nancial support of the Government of Canada through the Book Publishing Industry Development Program (BPIDP) for our publishing activities. We would also like to thank the Government of Québec – Tax credit for book publishing – Administered by SODEC.

3

Table of ContentsList of Maps 4List of In-Depth Articles 5Map Symbols 6Symbols Used In This Guide 6Ontario in Due Time 8Ontario À La Carte 8Where is Ontario in the World? 10

Portrait 11Geography 12Fauna 13History 15Politics 23Economy 24Architecture 25The Arts 27

Practical Information 33Entrance Formalities 34Getting There and Getting Around 34Useful Information, from A to Z 37

Outdoors 47Parks 48Summer Activities 50Winter Activities 53

Ottawa 55Getting There and Getting Around 57Useful Information 58Exploring 59Outdoor Activities 76Accommodations 78Restaurants 83Entertainment 89Shopping 91

Eastern Ontario 95Getting There and Getting Around 96Useful Information 98Exploring 98Outdoor Activities 113Accommodations 116Restaurants 122Entertainment 125Shopping 126

South-Central Ontario 129Getting There and Getting Around 130Useful Information 131Exploring 131Outdoor Activities 140Accommodations 142Restaurants 147Entertainment 151Shopping 151

Toronto 153Getting There and Getting Around 157Useful Information 161Exploring 161Parks 196Outdoor Activities 196Accommodations 198Restaurants 208

Entertainment 218Shopping 222

The Lakelands 227Getting There and Getting Around 228Useful Information 230Exploring 230Outdoor Activities 241Accommodations 243Restaurants 249Entertainment 253Shopping 253

The Niagara Peninsula and Surroundings 255Getting There and Getting Around 256Useful Information 258Exploring 258Outdoor Activities 279Accommodations 281Restaurants 292Entertainment 298Shopping 298

Southwestern Ontario 301Getting There and Getting Around 302Useful Information 304Exploring 304Outdoor Activities 314 Accommodations 316Restaurants 322Entertainment 325Shopping 326

Northeastern Ontario 329Getting There and Getting Around 330Useful Information 332Exploring 333Outdoor Activities 346Accommodations 350Restaurants 356Entertainment 358Shopping 359

Northwestern Ontario 361Getting There and Getting Around 362Useful Information 362Exploring 362Outdoor Activities 370Accommodations 373Restaurants 376Entertainment 376Shopping 377

Appendix 379Index 380Our Guides 391Contact Us 393Write to Us 393Notes 394Table of Distances 399Weights and Measures 399Map Symbols 400Symbols Used In This Guide 400

Tabl

e of

Con

tent

s

4Li

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f Map

sList of MapsAlong the Shores of Lake Huron 239

Collingwood Attractions 234Accommodations and Restaurants 246

Eastern Ontario 97

GatineauAccommodations and Restaurants 82

Guelph Attractions 264Accommodations and Restaurants 284

Hamilton Attractions 269Accommodations and Restaurants 286

Kitchener Attractions 260, 261Accommodations and Restaurants 282, 283

Kingston Attractions 105Accommodations and Restaurants 117

Lakelands, The 229

London, DowntownAttractions 305Accommodations and Restaurants 317

Manitoulin Island 342

Niagara-on-the-Lake Attractions 275Accommodations and Restaurants 287

Niagara and the Wine Route 273

Niagara Falls Attractions 277Accommodations and Restaurants 291

Niagara Peninsula and Surroundings, The 257

Northeastern Ontario 328

Northwestern Ontario 360

Ottawa DowntownAttractions 63Accommodations and Restaurants 81

Ottawa and Gatineau Attractions 60

Peterborough Attractions 138Accommodations and Restaurants 146

Quinte’s Isle 135

Sault Ste. Marie Attractions 339Accommodations and Restaurants 353

South-Central Ontario 128

Southwestern Ontario 303

Stratford Attractions 308Accommodations and Restaurants 318

Sudbury Attractions 335Accommodations and Restaurants 351

Suggested Tours in Ontario 32

Thunder Bay Attractions 366Accommodations and Restaurants 374

Toronto

Annex, The Attractions 191Accommodations and Restaurants 206

Bloor Street and Yorkville Avenue Attractions 187Accommodations and Restaurants 204

CabbagetownAttractions 169Accommodations and Restaurants 205

Chinatown and Kensington Market Attractions 181Accommodations and Restaurants 202

Entertainment and Financial Districts, The Attractions 166, 167Accommodations and Restaurants 210, 211

5Old Town of York

Attractions 176Accommodations and Restaurants 200

Queen’s Park and the University of Toronto Attractions 185Accommodations and Restaurants 203

Queen Street West Attractions 178, 179Accommodations and Restaurants 212, 213

Rosedale and Forest Hill Attractions 193Accommodations and Restaurants 207

Waterfront and Toronto Islands, The Attractions 163Accommodations and Restaurants 198

Toronto and Surroundings 155

Toronto Subway 160

Waterloo Attractions 260, 261Accommodations and Restaurants 282, 283

Windsor Attractions 312Accommodations and Restaurants 321

Banting and Co. 183

Blockhouses and Martello Towers 104

Ed Mirvish 168

Ferocious Predator Alert! 368

Hogtown 177

Ice Wines 274

Lieutenant-Colonel John By 59

Loyalists 134

Niagara’s Wine Country 272

Norman Bethune 231

Rabies 51

Respect the Forest! 49

Scottish and Irish Stone Masons 99

Thayendanegea, Mohawk Chief, British Military Offi cer and Man of Letters 266

The First Industrial Wave: Victoria Island and the Area Surrounding Chaudière Falls 75

The Invention of the Telephone 267

The Mennonites 259

The Niagara Escarpment 238

The Odawa 57

The Trent-Severn Waterway 132

Three Ottawa Neighbourhoods 67

Yonge Street 171

List of In-Depth Articles

List

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6

Attraction Classifi cation

Not to be missed Worth a visit Interesting

Accommodation Classifi cationUnless otherwise noted, all prices indicated in this guide apply to a standard room for two people in peak season.

$ less than $ $$ from $ to $ $$$ from $ to $ $$$$ from $ to $ $$$$$ more than $

Restaurant Classifi cationPrices in this guide are for a meal for one person, excluding taxes and tip.

$ less than $ $$ $ to $ $$$ $ to $ $$$$ more than $

All prices in this guide are in Canadian dollars.

Symbols Used In This Guide

a Air conditioningbkfst incl. Breakfast included

c Casino

q Fan

o Fax number

g Fireplace

d Fitness centrefb Full board (lodging + 3 meals)½b Half board (lodging + 2 meals)

f Kitchenette

y Internet access in the room

h Mosquito net

i Parking

s Pets allowed

j Pool

k Refrigerator

m Restaurant

n Saunasb Shared bathroom

l Spa

p Telephone number

4 Travel by bike

6 Travel by bus

5 Travel by car

3 Travel by foot

7 Travel by metro

ù Ulysses favourite

t Wheelchair access

b Whirlpool

Attraction Classifi cation

Not to be missed Worth a visit Interesting

Accommodation Classifi cationUnless otherwise noted, all prices indicated in this guide apply to a standard room for two people in peak season.

$ less than 60$ $$ from 60$ to 100$ $$$ from 101$ to 150$ $$$$ from 151$ to 225$ $$$$$ more than 225$

Restaurant Classifi cationPrices in this guide are for a meal for one person,

excluding taxes and tip.

$ less than 15$ $$ 15$ to 25$ $$$ 26$ to 50$ $$$$ more than 50$

All prices in this guide are in Canadian dollars.

The grey-bordered sections of this guide list the covered areas distinctive establishments.

You can refer to the following pictograms to fi nd the information you need:

H Accommodations

S Entertainment

R Restaurants

A Shopping

Sea, lake, river

Forest or park

National capital

Provincial or state capital

International border

Provincial or regional border

AttractionsAccommodations

Restaurants

Place

Tunnel

Train track

Internationalairport

Touristinformation

Hospital

Building Museum

Cemetery

Train station

CasinoNational or provincial park

Car ferry

Beach

Passenger ferry

Metro stationDUNDAS

Golf course

Church

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Ontario!No matter what kind of trip you’re planning or the length of your stay in this Canadian province, whether you’re seeking to explore the urban, multicul-tural Ontario or the Ontario of wild open spaces and bucolic villages, you’ll fi nd everything to satisfy your expectations. This selection of attractions is provided to help you customize your trip.

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Ontario in Due Time

One Week

Any trip to Ontario should include, almost unavoidably, a visit to Niagara Falls, the province’s most spectacular natural site. The falls are located in a beautiful wine region that also deserves to be explored. Dynamic and hectic, Toronto is another obvious must. Canada’s metropolis offers all the attractions of a large sophisticated and lively city. You should also make a stop in Ottawa, where you will fi nd some of the most impressive museums in the country, as well as an architectural heritage that is worthy of the city’s status as the nation’s capital.

Two Weeks

If you’re planning to travel in Ontario for an extra week, you should also visit the lovely St. Lawrence Islands National Park and Kingston, a former military garrison that is now a beautiful lakeside city on the shore of Lake Ontario. You can also enjoy a stay in the agricultural region of Kitchener-Waterloo and in Stratford, a small, quaint town that is famous for its Shakespeare festival. Finally, a trip to the Lake Huron, Georgian Bay and village of Collingwood area is ideal for a beach vacation and to enjoy great views of one of the Great Lakes.

Three Weeks

Continuing your trek towards southeastern Ontario, you can stop by the prosperous and pleasant town of London, before heading to Pointe Pelee National Park. If you’re in the mood for a real adventure and wish to discover the wilderness of the Canadian Shield, you should plan a trip to Algonquin Provincial Park. Dotted with a multitude of lakes and rivers, the park is a veritable haven for outdoor enthusiasts. Finally, the northern part of the province also features some lovely spots, including the city of Sault Ste. Marie.

Ontario À La Carte

Enchanting Weekends in the Country

Ontario’s countryside is simply delightful. Blessed with the magnifi cent Great Lakes, vast, fertile lands that stretch as far as the eye can see, and the characteristic landscapes of the Canadian Shield, Ontario boasts magnifi cent rural regions. And at the heart of each of these regions are a string of enchanting towns. To the east are Merrickville, which was built around the windmill that stands at the edge of the Rideau River, and Brockville, which proudly sits on the shore of the St. Lawrence River. On Quinte Bay, Bloomfi eld will seduce you with its charming little streets lined with quaint homes. A stay in Ontario wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Niagara-on-the-Lake, with its won-derful shops, posh inns and nearby vineyards. Stratford, with its British charm, boasts a park that stretches all along the Avon River, an ideal spot to relax. Huntsville is the perfect vacation village; it is located in a beautiful countryside lake region and features large hotels. Elora, located in the heart of Mennonite country, boasts wonderful stone buildings. On the edge of Lake Huron, Goderich stands out thanks to its unusual down-town core, while the secret to Amherstburg lies in its military past; an old fort can still be visited here. You can stay in each of these lovely towns and, every morning, head off to discover new regions… miles away from the hustle and bustle of urban life.

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9Splendid Natural Attractions

Niagara Falls is without a doubt one of the province’s top natural treasures. The falls are a must-see attraction, but Ontario’s natural heritage doesn’t stop there. Indeed, the St. Lawrence River is lined with a succession of more than 1,000 islands that make up the landscape protected by the St. Lawrence Islands National Park. Another strip of land is protected by Pointe Pelee National Park, which constitutes Canada’s southern-most strip of land and welcomes many species of birds during their migration. The Canadian Shield and its dramatic landscapes are an inspiration to many, so Algonquin Provincial Park was created to preserve this natural living portrait. Aside from excep-tional panoramas, it offers a veritable sanctuary for those who wish to escape modern life. The natural treasures the Georgian Bay and its 30,000 islands are protected by the Georgian Bay Islands National Park and the Bruce Peninsula National Park. Northern Ontario, a vast territory that remains sparsely populated, also features several natural attractions that deserve to be mentioned. Lake Superior alone is worth the long drive, if only to marvel at its immensity. Two exceptional parks preserve some of its secrets: Lake Superior Provincial Park and Pukaskwa National Park. Finally, don’t forget to stop by the sandy beaches that stretch along Lake Ontario (Sandbanks Provincial Park), Lake Erie (Port Stanley) and Lake Huron (Pinery Provincial Park and Wasaga Provincial Park).

Fascinating Museums and Festivals

Boasting some of the most extensive collections of Canadian art, Ontario’s museums are full of surprises. Ottawa is the proud home of the splendid National Gallery of Canada and the Canadian War Museum. In Toronto, you can admire the collections of the Royal Ontario Museum and the Art Gallery of Ontario, or take part in an enlightening tour of the Ontario Science Centre. Another surprising museum that displays a lovely collection of works of art is the Art Gallery of Windsor. Sudbury also has its own worthy attraction, the unique science centre that is Science North.

Cultural life in Ontario also encompasses a multitude of festivals. Ottawa is famous for its February Winterlude and its May tulip festival. The Toronto Jazz Festival and the Toronto International Film Festival, for their part, are also deservedly renowned. Niagara-on-the-Lake is not only famous for its vineyards, but also for its Shaw Festival, while Stratford attracts hordes of Shakespeare lovers who come to enjoy plays during the town’s reputed summer-long Stratford Festival.

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10

Where is Ontario in the World?

OntarioCountry: CanadaCapital: TorontoArea: 1,068,630km2

Population: 12,700,000 inhab.Pop. Density: 12,94 inhab./km2

Currency: Canadian dollarMain Cities: Climate: Temperate continentalAverage temperatures: in winter –5°C (min.) and 1°C (max.), in sum-mer 17°C (min.) and 27°C (max.)Average precipitations: 80cm of rain and 300cm of snow

Highest Point: Ishpatina Ridge (693m)Time Zone: UTC –5 (EST) and –6 (EDT)Language: English; approximately 4% of the province’s population is Francophone

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11

Portrait

Geography 12

Fauna 13

History 15

Politics 23

Economy 24

Architecture 25

The Arts 27

12

Often the fi rst image that comes to mind when thinking of Ontario is the Great Lakes, those tremendous expanses of fresh water surrounded by an untamed abundance of nature.

Another obvious image is of vast, fertile fi elds dotted with farmhouses charmingly adorned with balconies, shutters and fl owers.

Still another vision is that of tiny hamlets with their splendid dwellings that in many cases have reigned over their surroundings for more than a century and a half. Finally, there are the cities with their priceless architectural heritage, silent witnesses to the prosperity of Canada’s richest province. Rural Ontario certainly has plenty to delight romantic souls looking for tranquillity and a glimpse of the past, but this prov-ince also has an eminently modern, urban face. After all, it encompasses Toronto, Canada’s biggest city, and Ottawa, its federal capital.

With a land mass of 1,068,000km², Ontario is the second-biggest Canadian province in terms of surface area, behind only Québec. It is bordered to the east by Québec, to the west by Manitoba, to the north by Hudson Bay, and to the south by the United States. Much of its southern boundary is formed by lakes Superior, Huron, Erie and Ontario, and, furthest east, by the St. Lawrence River. These waterways allow easy access to much of Ontario and in the past were the basis for settlement of the prov-ince.

GeographyPainter Tom Thomson and the Group of Seven captured all the beauty of Ontario’s natural assets in their paintings, which reveal wild landscapes that exude a sense of solitude and serenity. These panoramas, typical of the Canadian Shield, show some of Ontario’s vast riches, which you will discover as you explore the region.

The Lakes

Ontario is proud to be home to four of the fi ve Great Lakes: Ontario, Erie, Huron and Superior (the fi fth, Lake Michigan, is located in the United States). The size of these gigantic expanses of fresh water is quite impressive. The smallest of the Great Lakes, Lake Ontario, covers no less than 18,000km², while the largest, Lake Superior, which is also the largest fresh-water lake in the world, covers 82,700km². The lakes were formed by retreating glaciers during the Quaternary period. Drain-ing the Lake Superior basin and several U.S. states, the majestic St. Lawrence River forms the south-eastern boundary of the province and crosses Québec to fi nally fl ow into the Atlantic Ocean. Aside from the Great Lakes, Ontario contains some 400,000 lakes and rivers that have played a key role in the province’s history; in addition to supplying essential food for Aboriginal nations, they were the main transportation routes into the territory.

The Plains

West of the St. Lawrence River and in the southwest part of the province are vast, fertile plains that produce most of Ontario’s agricultural output, such as wheat, corn, tobacco, vegetables and fruits. For its part, the Niagara Peninsula is ideal for grow-ing peaches, cherries and grapes, thanks to its unique microclimate. Many Canadian wines come from wineries located in this peninsula.

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13The Canadian Shield

The Canadian Shield forms a half-circle around Hudson Bay, from the northeastern part of the country to the Arctic archipelago, and covers a large part of Ontario. This vast territory, created during the Precambrian era, was shaped by retreating glaciers that exposed rocks and formed rivers and lakes along the way, as well as undulating landscapes of no more than 100 metres in elevation. This area is very rugged and un-favourable to agriculture. However, the type of forest that is found here has allowed the development of an important logging industry, while the subsoil has revealed great riches, such as deposits of gold and nickel, as well as silver veins.

The Forest

Today, Ontario’s territory is still largely covered by a vast forest that changes gradually from the north to the south. A small part of the territory (the southwest tip) hosts hardwood forests, with such species as maple, beech, elm, oak and ash. This type of forest is soon replaced by a mixed forest, however, which is mostly composed of maple, aspen and a multitude of softwood trees such as balsam fi r, larch and jack pine.

Further north, deciduous trees become increasingly rare, with the boreal forest dom-inated instead by conifers (mostly species of pine, larch, spruce and fi r). This ever-green forest begins in Ontario’s mid-north and gives way in turn to transitional boreal forest containing smaller forms of vegetation that are better adapted to the rigours of the northern climate.

The harsh climate in the province’s far north is characterized by long and very cold winters, short summers with fewer than 120 frost-free days, and low rainfall. This al-lows only stunted forms of vegetation to develop.

FaunaMoose, deer, foxes and beavers are among the animal species inhabiting Ontario forests. To help you recognize them, here is a brief description of some of them. We will not even attempt to give a thorough description of the many hundreds of species of bird-life that can be observed year-round. You will, however, fi nd bird-watching information in the “Outdoor Activities” sections of some chapters in this guide, with descriptions of good bird-watching spots.

The Deer Family

The moose, nearly 2m high and weighing up to 600kg, is the biggest of the Cervidae. It is easily distinguished by its long head, round nose, the hump on its back and its brown coat. Males have enormous antlers. Moose are found near streams in the north of the province, and are particularly numerous in Algonquin Park.

The white-tailed deer is noted for its reddish-brown coat and its white tail. This deer, scarcely a metre high, is found in forests in the southern part of the province, where it is relatively easy to observe. With few natural enemies apart from wolves and bears, it often forms oversized herds. Pinery and Rondeau parks are good places to observe this species.

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14Predators

The wolf lives in packs. It resembles a grey German-shepherd-type dog, is between 67cm and 95cm long, and weighs at most about 50kg. It attacks its prey (often deer) in packs, making it unpopular with some animal-lovers. There have even been efforts in the past to eliminate it completely. These efforts failed, but they did reduce the numbers living in the wild. It is fairly common for campers in provincial parks to hear wolves howling, but they rarely approach human beings.

The coyote is another canine predator. Smaller than the wolf, it is about 40cm long and weighs about 15kg. Its coat is grey and reddish-brown. This is another predator that, at one time, was slated for extermination. There remain a good number today despite trappers and hunters. They are found mostly in the bush.

The fox is a cute little reddish-brown animal with magnifi cent fur. It is found through-out the Ontario forest, but this cunning animal often avoids inhabited areas and visitors, and thus is rarely seen. It hunts alone and also feeds on berries and nuts.

The black bear is the most dangerous animal in the Southern Ontario forest. Incidents are rare, but each year a few visitors are injured by this beautiful and powerful ani-mal. It is sometimes seen in parks, particularly in places where food can be found (campers: don’t leave any out!). It is mostly nocturnal. This is the smallest bear in Canada, about 1.5m long and about 220kg in weight.

Rodents

Canada’s emblem, the beaver, is found near bodies of water, where it builds its lodge. The technique is simple: it cuts down several trees to form a dam that controls the water level, and then it builds its lodge. It is an excellent swimmer. This small brown animal has a fl at, spiky tail. With few means of defence, it has been heavily hunted, although there remain many in Ontario.

The prairie dog, a small, pale brown animal, is often found in the fi elds, where it lives in groups of about 20. It feeds on roots and herbs, and can quickly destroy crops. This explains the concern of farmers who fi nd this animal in their fi elds. It is often hunted down.

The porcupine is a small rodent that abounds in coniferous and deciduous forests. It is well known for its unusual way of defending itself. In case of danger, it curls up, extends its spines, and forms an unassailable pin cushion.

Others

The raccoon is easily identifi able. This little grey animal, scarcely bigger than a cat, has a black mask around its eyes and a black-and-grey-striped tail. It is seen frequently and does not hesitate to rummage through garbage or through campers’ food. Be-ware: it is best not to feed it. It is omnivorous and seems to like everything, and is often found in cities.

The skunk is a little black animal distinguished by white stripes on its back and its bushy tail. But it is identifi ed most of all by the very unpleasant odour it can give off. It defends itself by spraying its enemies with a foul-smelling liquid.

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15

HistoryWhen Europeans came to the New World, a mosaic of Aboriginal peoples had al-ready occupied this vast continent for thousands of years. The ancestors of these peoples crossed the Bering Strait toward the end of the last Ice Age, more than 12,000 years ago, and gradually occupied the entire continent. During the following millennia, encouraged by the retreat of the glaciers, some of them began to migrate toward the most northerly lands of Eastern Canada. When Europeans launched their fi rst intensive explorations of North America, several nations grouped according to two linguistic families (Iroquoian and Algonquian) shared the territory that would later be known as Ontario.

Living in bands, the Aboriginal communities had to adapt themselves to the charac-teristics of the territory they occupied. The Algonquian nations who, in most cases lived in the mid-north and far north of Ontario, developed a way of life suited to a rigorous climate that was too cold for agriculture. They were nomads, living in small bands and subsisting mostly on hunting. In contrast, the Iroquoian nations in the south were much more sedentary. The land they lived on enabled them to prosper from agriculture, which provided most of their food. The Iroquois lived in big vil-lages, often protected by wooden palisades, some of them with populations over 1,000.

Effi cient systems of communication and trading became established over the centur-ies between these Amerindian communities. Using a barter system, the Aboriginals of Southern Ontario traded their farming produce for furs from their more northerly neighbours, the Algonquians. The use of canoes along the many rivers and lakes lay at the heart of this way of life. Although they succeeded in making good use of the resources and the special characteristics of the lands they lived on, these societies would face unprecedented challenges with the arrival of Europeans beginning in the 16th century.

The Meeting of Two Civilizations

Toward the year 1000, Viking explorers had taken advantage of a climatic warming to sail along the eastern coast of what is now Canada. They also fi shed and built settle-ments there. It was not until several centuries later, however, with the fi rst voyage of Christopher Columbus in 1492, that Europeans began intensive exploration and colonization of the American continent. In Canada, the fi rst European expeditions that would have long-lasting results were led by John Cabot and, later, by Jacques Cartier.

John Cabot, born Giovanni Caboto, obtained fi nancial and political support in Eng-land and set sail from the port of Bristol in 1497, heading west. Cabot was looking for a route that would lead him to the much-coveted riches of the Orient. His explora-tions ended instead on the island of Newfoundland. Nonetheless, Cabot’s expedition would have important consequences. Back in England, he spoke of the great riches he had discovered, the seemingly inexhaustible cod banks off the northern shores of the New World. From then on, English, French, Basque and Spanish fi shers left European ports in ever greater numbers in search of this marine wealth off New-foundland.

In 1534, the Breton navigator Jacques Cartier launched the fi rst of his three North American expeditions. Cartier was mandated by King François I to fi nd gold and a passage to Asia. Cartier did not fi nd either of these, although his expeditions did lead him up the St. Lawrence River as far as the site of the present-day city of Montréal.

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16Disappointed by Cartier’s discoveries, the French authorities soon abandoned any further exploration of this territory, which they considered inhospitable. Even so, the expeditions of Cabot and Cartier were the prelude to colonization efforts in the following centuries.

French Settlement

A few decades later, the growing fashion among Europeans for fur hats and cloth-ing, and the huge profi ts expected from this trade, rekindled the French authorities’ interest in North America. The fur trade required constant contact with Aboriginal suppliers, and a permanent presence thus became necessary. It was mostly for pur-poses of trade that posts were created at Québec in 1608 and at Montréal in 1642. In the following decades, these two posts along the St. Lawrence River would become the heart of New France.

Located deeper in the interior, far from the Atlantic coast and from the easily navig-able portion of the St. Lawrence River, the Ontario territory was not considered suit-able for colonization by French authorities. Its lands were surveyed nevertheless by French explorers. In 1610, only two years after the founding of Québec, the explorer Étienne Brûlé set out to discover the interior of the continent. Like several of his pre-decessors, Brûlé was seeking a route that could lead him quickly across the continent to the fabulous riches of the Orient. Travelling alone, he was the fi rst European to reach Lake Ontario and Lake Huron.

A few years later, in 1615, Étienne Brûlé launched a new westward expedition, ac-companied this time by the great explorer Samuel de Champlain, founder of the post at Québec. Champlain and Brûlé got as far as the shores of Georgian Bay, where an agreement was concluded between the French and the Hurons who inhabited the area. The Hurons agreed to trade exclusively with the French who, in return, offered them protection against their traditional Iroquois enemies who lived further south.

Even though the fur trade continued to lie at the origin of colonization efforts during this period, the New World also held great interest for French religious orders. The Récollets arrived fi rst, in 1615, before being replaced by the Jesuits starting in 1632. They saw the evangelization of the Aboriginals as an unprecedented opportunity to extend Christianity. In 1639, deep in the Ontario hinterland on the shores of Georgian Bay explored earlier by Brûlé and Champlain, a small group of Jesuits founded the mission of Sainte-Marie Among the Hurons, near the present-day town of Midland. The agreement allying them with the French was probably the main reason the Hurons accepted this religious presence. The mission was abandoned a few years later, however, after fi ve Jesuits perished during the military defeats that the Hurons suffered at Iroquois hands in 1648 and 1649.

This war was part of an extensive offensive campaign launched by the powerful Iroquois Five Nations confederacy between 1645 and 1655 intended to wipe out all rival nations. The Hurons, the Petuns, the Eries and the Neutrals, each at least 10,000 strong, were almost completely annihilated within the space of ten years. These Iroquoian-speaking nations of Southern Ontario were essentially victims of the war for the monopoly of the fur trade conducted by the European powers through inter-mediaries. Allied with the English, the Five Nations confederacy, whose traditional territories lay further south in what is now the United States, wanted to appropriate this lucrative trade for itself. The Iroquois military offensive also threatened the exist-ence of the French colony. During 1660 and 1661, Iroquois warriors struck every-where in New France, bringing a halt to the fur trade and ruining crops. French King Louis XIV reacted by sending in troops that succeeded in “pacifying” these Aboriginal people.

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17 The Fur Trade

The following years were marked by heavy growth in the fur trade, with Montréal at its centre. This period in the history of New France coincides with the glorious era of the coureurs des bois, literally the “runners of the woods.” Leaving their lands behind, these intrepid young men headed deep into the back-country, crisscrossing the terri-tory of what is now Ontario, to trade directly with Aboriginal fur suppliers.

Helped by the expeditions of these trappers and also by missionaries and explor-ers, French claims in North America grew rapidly. New France reached its zenith at the dawn of the 18th century, with a strong hold over the North American fur trade, control over the St. Lawrence River and the Great Lakes, and plans to further exploit its lands in Louisiana. These strategic positions enabled it to limit the expansion of the far more populous English colonies, wedged in the territory between the Atlantic Ocean and the Appalachian mountains. But France, after being defeated in Europe, agreed under the terms of the Treaty of Utrecht of 1713 to turn over offi cial control of Hudson Bay, Newfoundland and Acadia to the English. This treaty led to New France’s loss of strategic military positions, weakening it severely and presaging its downfall.

In the following years, the noose kept tightening around New France. When the Sev-en Years’ War (1756-63) broke out in Europe, the North American colonies quickly became one of the key stakes. On the territory of present-day Ontario, French troops managed in the early years to contain the British thrust and to retain control of navi-gation on the Great Lakes. The French forces were small in numbers, but they held strategic positions: Fort Frontenac, at the mouth of Lake Ontario; Niagara, an import-ant link between Lake Ontario and Lake Erie; Detroit, situated at the point of Lake Erie; Michilimackinac, where lakes Michigan and Huron meet; and Fort Rouillé, built in the excellent port that is now called Toronto. One after another, however, each of these fortifi cations would fall into British hands. Although Montréal was the last city to fall, in 1760, the fate of New France had already been sealed the previous year in Québec City in the famous battle of the Plains of Abraham. By the Treaty of Paris, in 1763, France offi cially ceded all its North American possessions to England, except the Saint-Pierre and Miquelon islands.

British North America

In the early years after the British conquest of Canada, little changed in Ontario, which remained a vast and largely unoccupied territory, except for aboriginal settle-ments and fur traders. The British Crown did not decree any colonization or develop-ment plans during this period apart from the fur trade. Ironically, it was the American War of Independence (1775-83) that would give birth to Ontario, radically changing the history of Canada.

In the early years of the confl ict that pitted Great Britain against insurgents in its 13 southern colonies, British forces established strategic positions in Ontario from which they launched attacks against the American rebels. Overall, however, the war went against the British troops and their allies, and they fi nally had to concede defeat. The American Revolution, at least in the beginning, had been a genuine civil war between two factions: the supporters of independence and the Loyalists who wished to maintain colonial ties with the British. More than 350,000 of these Loyalists played an active part, fi ghting on the British side.

The signing of the Treaty of Versailles in 1783, which recognized the British defeat at the hands of the American Revolutionaries, pushed tens of thousands of these Loyal-ists to seek refuge in Canada. Between 5,000 and 6,000 of them settled on the virgin

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18western lands of what is now Ontario and developed the fi rst permanent colonies in this territory. Most of them settled along the northern shore of the St. Lawrence River and Lake Ontario in the area around what are now Prince Edward County and the city of Kingston, as well as in the Niagara region. Some First Nations bands that had fought alongside the British were granted lands in the Grand River Valley.

Until the arrival of the Loyalists, few citizens of British descent had emigrated to Canada, apart from some merchants who took the place of the French in the fur trade. Thus, two decades after the British conquest, the backgrounds of the vast majority of the Canadian population remained French and Catholic. With the rise of pro-independence feelings in the 13 southern colonies, the British Crown gave them the right to maintain their religion and customs to ensure the loyalty of these former subjects of the King of France. To keep the Loyalists from being in the minority, while at the same time upholding the rights of French Catholics, London promulgated the Constitutional Act of 1791 that divided Canada in two: Lower Canada and Upper Canada.

The Creation of Upper Canada

Lower Canada, with its large French majority, remained subject to French civil law, while Upper Canada, located west of the Ottawa River, was inhabited mostly by Loyalists of British stock and was subject to English common law. The Constitutional Act also introduced to Canada the beginnings of a parliamentary system, with the creation of a House of Assembly in each of the provinces.

Upper Canada at fi rst chose Newark, in the Niagara region, as its capital. But this did not last long, for the site was poorly protected and could easily fall if the Americans decided to invade Canada. In August 1793, the future site of Toronto, an easily de-fended port a good distance from the American border, was chosen to be capital of the new province. This site was strategic, but it remained virtually uninhabited. That same year, a little colony was set up along the Don River. Known as York until 1834, the capital of Upper Canada had only 800 inhabitants in 1810, and it would have been diffi cult then to predict its brilliant future.

The Upper Canadian settlers certainly had reason to mistrust their southern neigh-bours, who soon justifi ed these fears. In 1812, allegedly fed up with excessive British control over the Great Lakes, the Americans declared war on Britain and, thus, on Canada. Loyalists and their descendants still formed the majority of Upper Canada’s population, lending a rather emotional aspect to this confl ict. Britain, tied down in Europe by the Napoleonic Wars, could not provide signifi cant aid to its colony. The settlers managed nonetheless to repulse the American attacks and to infl ict on the United States of America the fi rst military defeat in its young history.

Even though its downfall had been narrowly avoided, Upper Canada’s geographic isolation became evident in the War of 1812. Quite apart from rendering the colony vulnerable in wartime, the various sets of rapids that blocked navigation along the St. Lawrence River and between the Great Lakes limited commercial trade with the colony even in peacetime. To open the route to Upper Canada, canals were built in several places, notably at Lachine, in 1814, and at Welland, in 1824. The fear of a new American invasion even led colonial authorities to approve the building of the Rideau Canal (1828-32), a diffi cult project that provided a direct link between Fort Henry (now Kingston) and the Ottawa River that bypassed the St. Lawrence River, whose southern shore forms the border with the United States. Where this canal meets the Ottawa River, a small colony was born and given the name Bytown; later, in 1855, it was renamed Ottawa and became the federal capital of Canada.

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NO

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Ontario

Ontario

This guidebook featuresAn in-depth look at the province’s cultural and historic treasures, with thorough descriptions and ratings, as well as a new thematic section that will help you better plan your itineraries and organize your time.

The inside scoop on the best accommodations and restaurants for every budget.

Complete information on the province’s parks and reserves and the many outdoor activities that can be enjoyed in them.

Precise maps and all the practical information you’ll need to find your way around Ontario.

•

•

•

•

From Heartland to Hinterland, Experience All of Ontario!

Here’s the new and completely revised edition of the Ulysses Travel Guide Ontario, the most complete guide to this Canadian province.

Travel through the charming 19th-century villages that dot the banks of the St. Lawrence River and the shores of the Great Lakes. Fall under the spell of the modern cities of Ottawa, the nation’s capital, and Toronto, its proudly multicultural metropolis. Discover all of Ontario’s stunning natural splendours, from the majestic Niagara Falls to the sprawling beaches on Lake Huron and the untamed landscape of the Canadian Shield.

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Labrador Sea

ATLANTIC

OC

EA

NPA

CIF

ICO

CE

AN

ONTARIO

BRI

TISH

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ALBERTAMANITOBA

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N.B.N.B. N.S.N.S.

P.E.IP.E.I

NEWFOUND LAND

AND LABRADOR

NEWFOUND LAND

AND LABRADOR

SASK

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YUKON

NORTHWESTTERRITORIESNORTHWESTTERRITORIES NUNAVUT

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N

Tr a v e l b e t t e r , e n j o y m o r eULYSSESwww.ulyssesguides.com

ULYSSES

£17.99$28.95 USD$32.95 CAD

ISBN:978-289464-773-8