Oliver+SRuffledHalter

8/12/2019 Oliver+SRuffledHalter

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ruffled halterThis adorable halter has a

simple pull-on style thats easyand fun for summer, featuring

a casing formed by the firstruffle for a clean, uncluttered

finish. For other fun looks,try making each ruffle witha different fabric, or cut the

ruffles from striped fabric withthe stripes going in different

directions.

DESIGNED BY Oliver + S

[ Photo on page 45; instructions onpage89 of Stitchmagazine Spring 2010]

BONUS

pattern


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DoWnLoAD THe FULL-siZe

PATTeRn FoR THis PRoJeCT

AT inTeRWeAVesTiTCH.CoM

Ruffled HalterByLiesL Gibson{from page 41}

FABRIC

1 (1, 1, 1, 1) yd (91.5 cm [1.1, 1.1,1.4, 1.4 m]) light- to medium-weightwoven fabric, such as quilting cotton,shirting, or linen (for a crisper look, trysilk taffeta or douppioni)

OTHER SUPPLIES

Matching sewing thread

About 9 (10, 11, 12, 13)" (23 [25.5, 28,30.5, 33] cm) of 38" (1 cm) wide elastic

Tailors chalk or water-soluble fabricmarker

Point turner or other turning tool such asa knitting needle or chopstick

Scrap of tissue paper (optional)

Serger or pinking shears (optional)

Bodkin or safety pin

Full-size pattern PDF on interweavestitch.com

FINISHED SIZE: XS: fits sizes 1824M/2T;S: fits sizes 3T4T; M: fits sizes 56; L: fitssizes 78; XL: fits sizes 1012

SIZE CHART

LENGTH (AT SIDE SEAM) LENGTH (AT CENTER FRONT)

XS 9 (23 cm) 1214 (31 cm)S 10 (25.5 cm) 1334 (35 cm)M 11 (28 cm) 1514 (38.5 cm)L 12 (30.5 cm) 1634 (42.5 cm)XL 13 (33 cm) 1814 (46.5 cm)

Shown in size Small.

NOTES

For explanations of terms and techniquesand/or help with pattern markings, see Sew-ing Basics on pp. 8288.

Ruffles cut on the bias have a nice drape,and stitching their raw edge helps keepfraying under control while giving them asoft edge.

When instructed to finish the seam allow-ances, you have a few options. Serge theedges, use a zigzag or an overcasting stitchon your sewing machine along the edges,or stitch (6 mm) from the edge and thenpink the raw edges to prevent raveling.

CUT FABRIC

1Trace and cut all pattern pieces from thefabric, referring to the Cutting Layout above.Be sure to transfer all pattern markings tothe wrong side of the fabric, except the FrontHalter.

BONUSpattern


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4

figure 4

For Front Halter (see note below): Using tai-lors chalk or a water-soluble fabric-markingpen, trace the center front line and the ruffleplacement lines on the fabrics right side andthe dots on its wrong side.

Note:Once youve marked the notches andtransferred the dots to the fabric, an easy wayto transfer the ruffle placement lines to thefabric is to trim the paper pattern piece at theRuffle #3 placement line and lay the trimmedpattern piece back on the fabric to trace thenewly cut line. Then trim the pattern pieceagain, this time at the Ruffle #2 placementline, and transfer that line to the fabric.

ASSEMBLE RUFFLE #1

& CREATE TIE CASING

2Topstitch the bottom edge of Ruffle #1 witha regular straight stitch, (6 mm) from theraw edge of the fabric. This stitching will allowthe ruffle to ravel a bit without getting too

messy. Be careful not to stretch the bias edgeas you stitch.

3Pin the right side of Ruffle #1 to the wrongside of the Front Halter, matching the top andarmhole edges (note that the lower edge ofRuffle #1 is wider than the Front Halter, sothe bottom edge will not lie flat when the topand armhole edges are matched together, al-lowing the ruffle to stand away from the halterwhen its worn). Stitch the ruffles top edgewith a (1.3 cm) seam. Then, stitch the arm-holes with a (1.3 cm) seam, beginning atthe dot you transferred from the pattern piece(located 58 [1.5 cm] below the top seamline)

and backtacking at the dot as well as at theend of the seam (figure 1). The gap left abovethe dot will become the opening of the casingfor the halter Tie.

4Trim the seam allowances to 18 (3 mm)

and turn the ruffle to the right side. As youturn the corners right side out, the seam al-lowances at the opening of the casing mightget pushed out through the gap; gently tuckthem back inside (use the point turner, knit-ting needle, or chopstick) before finger-press-ing the stitched edges, rolling them slightly tothe wrong side before pressing them with aniron to finish the top and armholes.

Note: Lay a scrap of tissue paper below thecorner where you start edgestitching (in Step5) to prevent the corner from being pushedinto the throat plate hole as you begin tostitch. Once youre finished, carefully tearthe tissue paper away without affecting thestitching.

5With the seam allowances tucked insidethe casing opening, edgestitch the halters top

edge.

6Using tailors chalk or a water-solublefabric-marking pen, draw a line58 (1.5 cm)from the top edge of the halter (12 [1.3 cm]from your edgestitching). This line shouldintersect the bottom edge of the gap you left

for the casing. Stitch along line to create thecasing (figure 2).

HEM FRONT HALTER

& ATTACH RUFFLES

7Fold and press 12 (1.3 cm) to the wrongside along the Front Halters bottom raw edgethen fold and press an additional 1 (2.5 cm)to the wrong side. Edgestitch the innermostfolded edge to finish the hem (figure 3).

8Topstitch the bottom edge of Ruffle #3 witha regular straight stitch, (6 mm) from thefabrics raw edge, as you did with Ruffle #1 (inStep 2).

9Stitch two rows of gathering stitches atthe top edge of Ruffle #3,18 (3 mm) and

12

3

45

6

CUTTING LAYOUT

1

figure 1figure 3

2

figure 2

PATTERN # NAME

1 Front Halter

2 Back Halter

3 Ruffle #1

4 Ruffle #2

5 Ruffle #3

6 Tie


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5

figure 5

figure 6

7

figure 8

(6 mm) from the top edge. Fold the ruffle inhalf widthwise to find the center, and mark itwith a pin.

0Pin the side edges of Ruffle #3 so thatthe ruffles top edge touches the Ruffle #3

placement line you transferred from the pat-tern piece. Pin the center of the ruffle to thehalters center line, then pull the gatheringstitches to match the ruffle width to the halter.

8

figure 9

and bottom edges of the Front Halter to thenotches on the Back Halter. The excess lengthof the Back Halter will become the elasticcasing at the top edge and the hem at thebottom edge. Stitch the sides with a 12 (1.3cm) seam, catching the ruffles in the seam(figure 7).

eFinish the seam allowances together andpress the seam allowances toward the BackHalter. Continue pressing the seam allowanc-es to the wrong side through the casing andhem allowances (figure 8). Press carefully toavoid flattening the ruffles.

rFold and press 12 (1.3 cm) to the wrongside along the Back Halters top raw edge.Fold and press an additional 12 (1.3 cm). Theoutside folded edge should match the FrontHalters finished edge (figure 9). Edgestitchthe innermost folded edge to form the elasticcasing.

tFold and press 12 (1.3 cm) to the wrong

side along the Back Halters bottom raw edge,then fold and press an additional 1 (2.5 cm).Edgestitch the innermost folded edge to fin-ish the hem, and edgestitch (by machine) orblindstitch (by hand) the folded short ends ofthe hem to finish them.

yAttach a bodkin or safety pin to one end ofthe38 (1 cm) wide elastic, and feed it throughthe back casing. Adjust the elastic to fit thewearer, and pin each end of the elastic alongthe side seams. Stitch back and forth throughthe elastic and all the layers, just inside theend of the casing (about [6 mm] from thefolded end) to secure it, and trim the excesselastic length.

Note: To trim the ends of the elastic, stretch it

while you cut near the opening of the casing.Once youve trimmed the elastic, it will bounceback inside the casing, hiding the cut edges.

MAKE TIE

uFold and press the short ends of the Tietoward the wrong side by 12 (1.3 cm). Fold theTie in half lengthwise, wrong sides together,and press the fold to create a center crease.

iOpen the lengthwise fold, and lay the Tieflat and wrong side up (with the short edgesstill pressed to the wrong side). Fold each ofthe fabrics two long raw edges in to meet atthe center crease, and press these two folds.

oFold the fabric along the center creaseagain and press it, enclosing the raw edges in

the fold. The fabric is now folded in four thick-nesses to form the Tie.

pEdgestitch the Tie along its open edge tofinish it.

[Attach a bodkin or safety pin to one end ofthe Tie, and feed it through the front casing.

LiesL Gibsonis the founder and designer for

the childrens wear pattern company Oliver + S.

See the profile on Liesl on pages 4145 and visit

her website at oliverands.com.

Check to make sure the bottom edge of theruffle matches the finished hem of the FrontHalter, and adjust the placement of the ruffleslightly higher or lower, if necessary. Distrib-ute the gathers equally and pin the ruffles fullwidth to the Front Halter (figure 4).

-Stitch the ruffle to the halter between thetwo rows of gathering stitches (a narrow [5 mm] seam). If desired, use a zigzag stitchacross the top edge of the ruffle to hold thegathered edge flat against the halter. Trim thetails of the gathering stitches, or completelyremove the gathering stitches if desired.

=Repeat Steps 811 to prepare and attachRuffle #2 at the second placement line.Lift Ruffle #1 out of the way, and align thetop of Ruffle #2 with the #2 placement line(figure 5).

qPin the side edges of the ruffles to the sideedges of the Front Halter, and baste them 38(1 cm) from the raw edges (figure 6).

ASSEMBLE HALTER

wAlign and pin the Front and Back halters,right sides together, matching the finished top

figure 7


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3oliver+s

ruffledhalter

ruffle#1

cut1onbias

GRAIN

S

M

XS

L

XL

S

M

XS

L

XL

S

M

XS

L

XL

S

M

XS

L

XL

GRA

IN

s

m

xs

l

xl

S

M

X S

L

X L

NOTE:Seam

allowances

areincluded.

Allseamsare

"unlessoth

erwisestated..

oliver+s

RUFFLEDHALTER

PATTERNSIZEKEYX

LLMSX

Thispatternisforprivateuseonly.Theimages,layout,

designandotheraspectsofthispatternarecopyright

Liesl+Co.,Inc.2010.Ifyouwishtomakeandsellitems

from

this

pattern,

please

contact

us

for

terms.

Otherwise,nopartofthisdesignorpatternmayberepro-

ducedinanyform.

NewYork,NY

oliver+s

www.oliverands.com

13

5

7

9

1 0

8

6

4

2

printedintheUSA

CUTTING

LAYOUT

1

23

45

6

PC#

NAME

1

fronthalter

2

backhalter

3

ruffle#1

4

ruffle#2

5

ruffle#3

6

tie

1a

1b

1c

1d

1e

1f

2a

2b

2c

2d

2e

2f

3a

3b

3c

3d

3e

3f

4a

4b

4c

4d

4e

4f


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NOTE: Seam allowances

are included. All seams are

" unless otherwise stated..

oliver + sR U F F L E D H A L T E R

PATTERN SIZE KEY

XL

L

M

S

XS

1a


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1b


9/30

1c


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1d


11/30

1e


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1f


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l

CUTT I NG

L A YOUT

12

3

45

6PC# NAME

1 front halter2 back halter

3 ruffle #1

4 ruffle #2

5 ruffle #3

6 tie

2a


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xl

2b


15/30

2c


16/30

2d


17/30

2e


18/30

2f


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XS

S MXS

LXL

XS

GRAIN

s

m

xs

3a


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GRAIN

M LXL

M

L

XL

3b


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3c


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3d


23/30

3e


24/30

3f


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3oliver+s

ruff

ledhalter

ruffle

#1

cut1

onbias

XS

S

M

XS

L

4a


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M

L

XL

XL

This pattern is for private use only. The images, layout,

design and other aspects of this pattern are copyright

Liesl + Co., Inc. 2010. If you wish to make and sell items

from this pattern, please contact us for terms.

Otherwise, no part of this design or pattern may be repro-

duced in any form.

New York, NY

oliver + s

www.oliverands.com

4b


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4c


28/30

4d


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4e


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4f

Documents

Oliver+SRuffledHalter