OLD NAVY’S NEW CAPTAIN/2 SECURING EUROPEAN PORTS/12Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • October 17, 2006 • $2.00

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Field of Dreams

PARIS — Dries Van Noten took

an athletic theme and used it for

stylish looks for spring. Here, an

example: a fl owered, sequined

track jacket, slouchy top and

shorts. For more sporty

pieces, see pages 10 and 11.

WWDTUESDAY Ready-to-Wear/Textiles

See The Big, Page 6

Rating the Big Four:Liz, Jones, Kellwood Rejig as VF FlourishesBy Whitney BeckettNEW YORK — What a difference a decade makes.

Apparel manufacturing giants Liz Claiborne Inc., Jones Apparel Group and Kellwood Co. were riding high in the Nineties as consumers demanded the moderate brands they pedaled and shopped the department store floors they dominated. But today’s challenging retail environment is about more than the department store, and the three companies are rushing to adapt to the new landscape.

Perhaps they should take a page from VF Corp., another of the industry’s

WWD.COM2 WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2006

FASHIONDesigners are playing with motifs and shapes inspired by sports, includ-ing football, baseball and track, in their spring collections.

GENERALRiding high in the Nineties, Liz Claiborne, Jones Apparel Group and Kellwood are trying to adapt to a new landscape, as VF has been able to do.

Dawn Robertson, managing director of Australia’s Myer department store chain, has been named president of Old Navy.

TEXTILES: As China exerts more infl uence in textiles and apparel, compa-nies striving to be more competitive are diversifying and turning vertical.

TRANSIT: European ports have stepped up physical security at their facilities and are better able to assess the risk of a container’s contents.

Nike Inc. has created fi ve vice presidents’ positions: three in Asia-Pa-cifi c, one in Europe and one in global sports marketing.

EYETalking with Dan Fogler, opening tonight in “Voyage of the Carcass” at SoHo Playhouse and coming to movie theaters soon in “Balls of Fury.”

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WWDTUESDAYReady-to-Wear/Textiles

● SEPTEMBER SALES: Hennes & Mauritz, the Swedish fast-fashion giant, on Monday said sales in September gained 9 percent, boosted by store openings. Like-for-like sales for the month were fl at. The fi rm, which has just introduced a one-off collection with Viktor & Rolf, did not reveal a kroner amount for group sales. Last month, the fi rm said third-quarter profi ts grew 13 percent on sales that gained 11 percent, underscoring continued growth of Europe’s main players in the sector. H&M said it had 1,300 stores at the end of September. Meanwhile, Spanish fast-fashion giant Inditex, which runs the Zara chain, today will open its 3,000th store, a Zara Home unit in Valencia, Spain. Pablo Isla, Inditex’s chief executive offi cer, said the fi rm plans to spend more than 900 million euros, or $1.12 billion, per year over the next fi ve years on new stores.

● QUEST’S NEW NOSES: Fragrance supplier Quest Inter-national has appointed Pierre Negrin to the new position of vice president and executive perfumer. Negrin most recently worked at fragrance supplier Givaudan, where he finished a 15-year tenure as vice president and senior perfumer. In his new post, Negrin will be based at Quest’s Fine Fragrances Creative Center in New York, reporting to Isabelle Parize, group vice president of fragrances, based in the U.K. In Quest’s Paris of-fi ce, François Bousquet has been appointed vice president of global fi ne fragrance, and Olivier Pescheux and Christophe Raynaud have been named senior perfumers.

In Brief

Obituary.............................................................................................15Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................14-15

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The address of the Susan Cianciolo & Cone Denim fashion event in Los Angeles is LACE, 6522 Hollywood Boulevard. This was incorrect on page 10 of the LA Preview on Wednesday.

● ● ●Serene Cicora of HSM PR was misidentifi ed on page 8 of the LA Preview.

Corrections

Gap Taps President for Old Navy

Levi’s Names Hanson North American HeadLevi Strauss & Co. continues to promote from

within as Phil Marineau’s tenure as president and chief executive officer winds down.

The San Francisco denim giant said Mon day that Robert Hanson has been appointed president of the company’s North American region, taking on

responsibility for the U.S. Dockers, Levi Strauss Signature and Canada and Mexico businesses. Hanson, who joined the company in 1988 and has been president of the Levi’s brand in Europe and a vice president, will maintain his role as president and general manager of the U.S. Levi’s brand.

The company also announced that Alan Hed will take over as president of its Asia-Pacifi c re-gion, succeeding John Anderson, who was tapped to become presi-dent and ceo when Marineau departs at the end of the year. Hed has been the Asia-Pacifi c re-gion managing director for Latin America, Africa, Turkey, Australia and New Zealand for the last three years. For the last year, he has also been managing director for Japan and South Korea.

Both appointments are effec-tive immediately.

— Ross Tucker

By Emili Vesilind

Gap Inc. said Monday that Dawn Robertson, who led a turnaround at one of Australia’s

largest retailers, will take over as president of the Old Navy division.

Robertson, managing direc-tor of the 60-unit Myer depart-ment store chain, said her “deep respect” for Old Navy was a key factor in the decision to take the job, adding, “Old Navy is a pretty iconic brand, which is what Myer was in Australia.”

She will assume her new post on Oct. 30, succeeding Jenny Ming, a 19-year veteran of Gap who headed Old Navy since 1998. Ming made it a national retail force with more than $6 billion in volume in over 900 stores. However, during the last two years, Old Navy’s same-store sales have been sinking and the division has lost market share to competitors.

Old Navy’s sales in stores open at least a year fell 11 percent in the second quarter, compared with a 6 percent decline in the same period last year. For the year, comp sales are down 7 per-cent, versus 6 percent a year ago.

Ming’s departure was an-nounced in July. She was a mem-ber of the executive team that launched San Francisco-based Old Navy in 1994.

Robertson has almost 30 years of apparel retailing experience. During her four years at Myer, the company went from losing “$16 million the year before she arrived’’ to earning a $29 mil-lion profi t last year, said Mark K. Montagna, senior retail analyst for C.L. King & Associates, an institutional research firm for investors.

Before joining Myer, Rob ertson, 51, a native of Birmingham, Ala., was presi-dent and chief merchandising offi cer of Federated Direct, a di-vision of Federated Department Stores, overseeing the catalogue and online businesses for Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s. Previously, she was executive vice president of the Federated Merchandising Group for men’s, kids’ and home, and worked in senior positions at May Department Stores, as well as heading McRae’s, a for-mer division of Saks Inc.

“For me, bringing Dawn in, with her great pas-sion, her history of leading creative teams, is just

going to help this team continue to move forward and accelerate,” said Paul Pressler, chief execu-tive offi cer of Gap Inc. “[Old Navy] is transform-ing itself. It’s shifted its product focus to be a

specialty retailer…making its product more covetable, more fashionable. We’re real-ly pleased with the work that has been done.…Needless to say, the ability to be trend-right, spot-on, is [important]. Speed is something that we’re all facing.”

Robertson said she will ini-tially be “learning and listen-ing.…It’s a very competitive environment that Old Navy is in right now. There are so many more choices.”

Several retail analysts praised the appointment.

“She has strong leadership skills,” said Richard Jaffe, se-nior retail analyst for Stifel Nicolaus & Co., a brokerage and investment banking fi rm. “This is a woman I don’t be-lieve will be intimidated. She’s been a leader before of big, complex organizations. She has an interesting set of experiences — not only does she have a direct sourcing background, she has a large retailing background.”

Doug Christopher, senior analyst for Crowell, Weedon & Co., said, “I think it’s positive and that the company is head-ing in the right direction.”

Analysts said Robertson’s hiring was well timed. “Old Navy has had negative comp store sales for two years,” Jaffe said. “It’s a nice time to join the company.”

Jaffe said Robertson’s task is straightforward. “It’s simply to make the stores more ap-pealing,” he said. “The space that Old Navy competes in — moderate-priced apparel — is enjoying an expanded market. More people than ever want to shop in the more moderate category. The opportunity for Old Navy has never been bet-ter, but the product has to cap-ture the consumer.”

Montagna said the key is restoring Old Navy to its origi-nal position in the moderate category. “Old Navy used to have a kind of cult-like sta-tus,” he said. “Now it’s skew-

ing more and more every day to a lower-income customer. It’s hard to grow your profi ts when that happens.”

Jenny Ming

Dawn Robertson

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MAUREEN CHIQUET, President and Chief Operating Officer, Chanel Inc.

ROSS LEVINSOHN, President, Fox Interactive Media

JOHN FLEMING, Executive Vice President and CMO, Wal-Mart Stores

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GELA TAYLOR, Co-Founder and Co-Designer, Juicy Couture Inc.

STEPHEN I. SADOVE, CEO, Saks Inc.

BRENDAN HOFFMAN, President and CEO, Neiman Marcus Direct

ELIE TAHARI, Chairman and CEO, Elie Tahari Ltd.

ARTHUR C. MARTINEZ, Chairman and CEO Emeritus, Sears, Roebuck and Company

ADRIENNE MA, President, Joyce Boutique Holdings Ltd.

TONY HSIEH, CEO, Zappos.com Inc.

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SUSAN MCGALLA, President and CMO, American Eagle Brand, American Eagle Outfitters

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“Whenever I get asked to come back to Rome, I do,” said Nicole Kidman on the opening night of the fi rst-ever Rome Film Fest. “I have a great affi nity for the city.”

By the sound of the Italian fans screaming “Nee-Kol, Nee-Kol,” it was clear the feeling was mutual.

The Oscar-winning actress, blushingly soft in a pale pink sequin tank dress by friend, stylist and newbie designer L’Wren Scott, kicked off the inaugural edition Friday night with the premiere of her fi lm “Fur: An Imaginary Portrait of Diane Arbus.”

The next night on the red carpet, Monica Bellucci showed off a different kind of beauty — the one of curves, cleavage and raven hair.

“La Bellucci,” who is on double-duty this week with two fi lms showing, “N (Io e Napoleone)” and “Le Concile De Pierre” or the “Stone Council,” was escorted down the red carpet by a bevy of young, tuxedo-clad Napoleons.

“Is la dolce vita back?” asked Bellucci, in her trademark whispery voice. “Who is to say, but I sure hope so.”

One thing was certain, not since the legendary Sixties has the Eternal City witnessed so much star power packed into so few days. Despite its inherent, at times infuriating but ultimately charming disorganization, Rome pulsed with an energy that had many people thinking about a sweet life redux.

Sean Connery (who was honored by the festival last Thursday), Richard Gere, Martin Scorsese and Leonardo DiCaprio were among the stars in town for the festival, which ends Saturday. The event, which has its base in the Renzo Piano-designed Auditorium, seeped into other parts of the city for a veritable party for the people.

For Scorsese and DiCaprio, in town for the European premiere of “The Departed,” their return was a homecoming of sorts. They had fi lmed “Gangs of New York” in Cinecittà, a large fi lm studio in the city. “Rome is like a second home to me,” DiCaprio said.

Not the case for his “Departed” co-star and fi rst-time visitor Vera Farmiga. “If I weren’t here right now, I’d be singing and dancing in the Trevi Fountain,” she joked.

Channeling Anita Ekberg wasn’t on the to-do list for Zoe Cassavetes. Rather, the actress who just wrapped fi lming “Broken English” was on the hunt for handmade shirtmaker Albertelli — “I hear he makes fabulous pajamas too,” she said Sunday night at the launch party for Fendi’s New Cinema Network award, a monetary prize given to an emerging young director.

“I think Romans are in seventh heaven,” Silvia Venturini Fendi said of the festivities. “Without a doubt the fi rst edition will have its problems. But it’s important to have at least started.”

— Courtney Colavita

WWD.COM4 WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2006

NEW YORK — Before he was compared with John Belushi and Jackie Gleason for his comedic turn on Broadway in “The 25th Annual Putnam County Spelling Bee,” Dan Fogler acted in what he calls “the immigrant show” at Ellis Island. In it he played Italian, Irish and even Russian men, teaching the audience daily about what the immigrant experience was like. Fogler remembers a particularly stifl ing August day when he played a doctor. During his monologue, he informed the crowd that if a man had an eye problem, Folger would take a piece of chalk and write the letter I on the man’s lapel.

“It tripped me up because I was like, ‘Why am I not writing an E?,’” Fogler recalls, starting to giggle. “And then I started cracking up, and then everybody started cracking up.”

It seems to be something of a habit, for during a recent performance of his new play, “The Voyage of the Carcass,” opening tonight at the SoHo Playhouse, Fogler broke character again, cackling when his cast-mate’s fake mustache became loose. Perhaps it’s one of the luxuries of working without the pressure of a big-time Broadway audience.

Not that he doesn’t know that as well. In 2005, Fogler brought to the stage William Barfee, a character he created, in “Spelling Bee.” His turn as the nasally nerd won him the Tony, as well as a number of agent’s phone numbers. They came calling, he says, with grand comparisons not only to Belushi and Gleason, but also to Philip Seymour Hoffman and Jack Black. And while it may be too quick to put him the

same league as two comedic legends and an Oscar winner, Fogler has already wrapped fi ve fi lms and been cast in roles one could easily see going to Black. For instance, in this winter’s comedy “Balls of Fury,” he plays a Ping-Pong player/CIA operative opposite Christopher Walken, a Ping-Pong-loving crime lord.

“We’re cut from a similar cloth,” Fogler says of Black. “When I was going for com-mercial auditions, they would say, ‘That was great, but could you do it more Jack Black?’ And that sort of gets to you. So I was sort of shunning Jack Black and then I heard his band Tenacious D and I fell in love with him again. If people want to as-sociate me with him, that’s great. It would be another thing if I suddenly became Jack Black’s little brother. That would suck.”

Of course, these days, comedians like Will Ferrell and Jim Carrey are taking roles as dramatic leads and Fogler, who’s per-formed Shakespeare and Chekhov, is fol-

lowing suit. The 29-year-old will next step into the role of Alfred Hitchcock in “Number 13,” a fi lm about the director’s unfi n-ished fi rst fi lm. Shooting begins in February, after “Carcass” has ended its run, with Ewan McGregor and Geoffrey Rush in talks for the other roles. Nonetheless, Fogler insists he’s not nervous.

“Nobody knows what Hitchcock was like as a 20-year-old, so I have that going for me,” he explains. “And here’s the other thing: You want to do Hitchcock in his 20s? Well, Hitchcock in middle school was just like Mr. Barfee. So I have an idea of what that’s like.”

— Emily Holt

Glory of RomeActress Carmen Chaplin has a lot of Hollywood

history resting on her slender shoulders — as her last name indicates, she’s the granddaughter of Charlie, not to mention the great-granddaughter of Eugene O’Neill. But while other thespians might be envious, her own feelings about her illustrious name weren’t as easy to reconcile.

“Acting always interested me, but because of my lineage, I found it embarrassing and pretentious to express that desire,” admits Chaplin, who stars in “Day on Fire,” which screens at the Hamptons International Film Festival on Thursday. It was only after she started acting classes and completed her fi rst fi lm that she felt comfortable talking openly about becoming an actor.

“I love my grandfather’s fi lms, but it ends there for me,” says the British-born Chaplin, who was raised far from the spotlight in Europe and attended Swiss and English schools. “I’m lucky. I’m one generation removed from Charlie Chaplin, so the weight of that name was on my father [Michael Chaplin]. But my parents were very healthy about it. They never brought us up in the cult of Charlie Chaplin.

“Maybe that’s why I love being in New York,” she continues. “There’s a freedom here. People don’t care about my name. It doesn’t really matter much.”

In fact, she landed her fi rst role, in the 1990 Wim Wenders fi lm “Travel Around the World,” by chance, not nepotism. Wenders’ producer spotted the statuesque beauty while dining in Paris and asked her to travel to Venice to make a cameo. Other fi lms quickly followed, including “Sabrina,” “My Favorite Season” and a role opposite Ewan McGregor in “The Serpent’s Kiss.”

She won her star turn in “Day on Fire” — as Najia, a Palestinian journalist who loses her brother to a suicide bombing —in a similarly fortuitous way. Chaplin met director/screenwriter Jay Anania at an NYU master class one year before the 2006 fi lm began shooting. After a few more chance run-ins at coffee shops, Anania invited Chaplin to read Najia’s challenging, eight-page monologue in another master class.

“Jay only gave me 15 minutes to prepare,” she admits. But Chaplin landed the role. Despite being little known in the U.S., “Day on Fire” co-producer and casting director Lina Todd says Chaplin was the only choice to portray Najia.

“It’s nice when someone trusts you because I’m not a big movie star,” says Chaplin.

She has intensely personal memories of her legendary grandfather. Chaplin recalls spending Christmas and Easter holidays at his home, playing with his props in the attic and watching home movies he’d shot with his own father. “I even found a recording long after his death of my grandfather playing instruments. It was like fi nding a treasure,” she says.

Chaplin, meanwhile, is completely sanguine about her own career.

“I’ve had breakthroughs,” she laughs. “It’s so up and down in this business. After a while, you get used to it.”

— Constance Droganes

BEE SEASON

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Leonardo DiCaprio with Vera Farmiga in Yves Saint Laurent.

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Monica Bellucci in Dior.

Dan Fogler clowns around on the set of “The Voyage of the Carcass.”

WWD.COM5WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2006

UP FOR AUCTION: Among the handful of boldfaced names at the opening party of the Louise T. Blouin Institute in West London on Thursday, the one that was to be the beacon of millionaire art collector Louise T. MacBain’s publishing mini empire was notably absent. As everyone knew by Monday, James Truman, formerly the editorial director of Condé Nast, whom MacBain lured out of hibernation to run her stable of art magazines, wasn’t there because he had quit.

It was not the fi rst time. Just two weeks after Truman joined LTB Media to oversee magazines such as Art + Auction and Modern Painters, as well as to launch Culture & Travel, he attempted to resign, but was persuaded by MacBain to stay.

But it was just not to be: There was the avalanche of phone calls from MacBain to Truman in the middle of the night, whenever an idea struck her, sources said. “They’re nonstop,” said a person who knows MacBain. “She does it with everyone on her payroll, and it drives them all crazy.” There was her habit of attending meetings with bodyguards, which seemed to indicate a particularly infl ated sense of self-importance. And there were MacBain’s focus problems — her habit of using 50 words when 10 would do, the need to make everything about saving the world.

Said a former employee: “She would be in meetings with us, and you’d be discussing the business policy, and she’d branch off into talking about Middle Eastern foreign policy and her part in changing it.”

A sample MacBain pronouncement: She said recently that artist James Turrell “seeks not to enhance light, but simply to reveal its place in our singular lives, in the history of humankind stretching back to the fi rst fl ame a human ever found, and then forward, into the cascades of galaxies that suggest, in their distant shimmers, who we may someday become.”

Over the summer, the situation deteriorated, as construction on the London headquarters for MacBain’s new brainchild, the Louise T. Blouin Institute, ran way over budget, by some accounts reaching up to $40 million. “She spent way more on the foundation than she’d intended,” said a person with relationships with both Truman and MacBain.

Truman originally had been promised three years to make LTB Media profi table. And with advertising up across the company’s titles by as much as 20 to 50 percent, that was looking like a possibility. But suddenly, because of the institute, MacBain was demanding the business break even by the end of the year, a source said.

By September, Truman was already telling friends he was unhappy. He had left Condé Nast in no small part because S.I. Newhouse Jr. decided not to proceed with an art magazine Truman had hoped to launch. The day after the launch party for LTB Media’s Culture & Travel, widely perceived to be the art magazine he’d longed to put out, he canceled several interviews with reporters — hardly the behavior of a man proud of his projects.

And, despite external glitz — intimate dinners at La Esquina to generate buzz, the hyped party at MacBain’s $20 million Richard Meier-designed West Village penthouse — Culture & Travel had been pieced together on a very tight budget, and ultimately the response to it was underwhelming.

Asked why he left, Truman said by phone on Monday: “I’d done everything I thought I could,” before adding that he admires MacBain’s entrepreneurial vision. He now plans to start his own company, he said, although he declined to reveal details.

His departure has left some of LTB’s newly minted editors, many of whom openly called Truman the draw, in the awkward position of defending the company without him. They remain at a magazine group sometimes seen as a platform for MacBain’s social ambitions. And to some, Truman’s short tenure with LTB is just further evidence of MacBain’s short-lived relationships with powerful men. She has been linked in press reports with Charlie Rose, Prince Andrew and Simon de Pury, her former boss at Phillips.

Said one observer, likening these romantic exploits to her business ones: “Everything with Louise is about brand names and power and fame. And James Truman came with a fabulous provenance.” — Jacob Bernstein and Irin Carmon

ENOUGH PRADA TO GO AROUND?: “Ugly Betty” is sitting pretty over at ABC. After the show enjoyed an average of 14.8 million viewers — making it the most-watched new

series this season, the network on Monday ordered up nine more episodes, bringing the total order to 22 for a full season. But clearly TV is in love with fashion these days. Perhaps taking a cue from ABC’s success, Fox TV Studios has acquired the television rights to “The Devil Wears Prada” (its parent fi lm studio bought the movie rights) and is working with Robin Schiff — who penned “Romy and Michele’s High School Reunion” — as the writer and producer for the show. But in TV land, getting a project from script to pilot is a lengthy process, not to mention the fact that the movie’s buzz may be long gone by the time the show hits the small screen — which likely wouldn’t happen until late next year. “There are no guarantees that it will come together, but in my opinion, I think it has a good shot,” said a Fox TV Studios spokeswoman.

In addition, questions as to who will play the characters made famous by Meryl Streep and Anne Hathaway won’t be answered until January or February, according to the spokeswoman. Both networks soon could fi nd out if there are enough viewers interested in watching eager young journalists get trampled by mean editors and catty assistants. — Amy Wicks

MEMO PAD

THE MACKEY MCDONALD MODEL IS THE ONE THAT’S WORKING.Throughout the Eighties and Nineties, VF Corp. was considered a conservative,

primarily domestic, producer focused on building dominant positions in such cate-gories as denim and intimates, a strategy embodied by brands such as Lee, Wrangler and Vanity Fair. Squeezing growth out of these already huge brands was a task made more diffi cult by the mergers of retail giants such as Sears and Kmart and, more recently, Federated and May Department Stores. Specialty stores such as Abercrombie & Fitch and American Eagle had also lured young consumers away from the department store fl oors with speed and ease.

Recognizing the squeeze ahead, McDonald urged his management team to fi nd new avenues for growth and set off on a strategy of buying and building lifestyle brands.

“We are all drinking change from the fi re hose,” said Eric Wiseman, VF’s president and chief operating offi cer, during the WWD/DNR CEO Summit last November. “We made pro-active choices to deal with the change coming at us and transformed our brand portfolio, accelerating growth at our company by becoming relevant to new consumers.”

The seeds of the company’s new strategy were planted with the acquisition of the North Face in April 2000. At the time, the North Face was foundering under the weight of more than $100 million in debt and was on the brink of fi ling for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection.

“By acquiring the North Face, VF adds a global dimension to its growing portfolio of strong outdoor lifestyle brands,” said McDonald, chief executive offi cer, at the time of the ac-quisition. McDonald also praised the brand’s “intensely loyal consumer base.”

The characteristics that made the North Face an attractive acquisition — its global appeal, ample opportunity for expan-sion and an established customer base — would provide the framework for future acquisitions.

In 2004, McDonald announced an overhaul of VF’s organization and, above all, a new focus on acquiring brands that existed outside the department store channel. The company went on a spending spree that year, using $667.5 million in cash to acquire the Vans, Kipling and Napapijri brands, as well as a majority interest in a Mexican intimate apparel marketing company.

The acquisitions had an immediate impact, sending sales up 16 percent, to $6.05 billion in 2004 from $5.21 billion in 2003. Earnings rose 19.3 percent, to $474.7 mil-lion, or $4.21 a share, compared with earnings of $397.9 million, or $3.61, previous year. Last year, the company spent another $213.5 million to acquire Holubek Inc., which holds the apparel license for Harley-Davidson, and Reef Holdings Corp. There is now speculation that Eddie Bauer could be VF’s next acquisition target.

Acquiring brands such as the North Face has also shown VF the benefi ts of controlling its distribution channel. North Face stores have consistently delivered double-digit comparable-store sales growth over the last several years, and the majority of acquisitions since have been of brands that had their own retail com-ponent. By the end of 2005, management had announced that expanding its com-pany-owned retail operations would be a new plank in its growth strategy, setting its sights on adding 400 company-owned stores over the next four years.

At the end of 2005, VF owned 525 stores, including 220 outlet stores. According to management, these stores accounted for 13 percent of sales in 2005. VF execu-tives are now looking to more than double the number of standard stores to 649 and increase the number of outlets to 279 for a total of 928 stores by 2009. The in-creased store count is expected to account for 18 percent of sales by that date.

McDonald is quick to note the company is not turning its back on the department store channel. He did, however, recognize the need to establish a new method of interacting with all the company’s customers. It meant shifting the approach from devising ways to sell the retailers more product to working more closely with them to

ensure their stores were stocked with the correct product. Rather than have a sales representative for each brand dealing with retailers separately, McDonald opted for one retail rep for each of the company’s fi ve business segments.

The strategy has paid off, particularly with mass retailers, a channel some of VF’s competitors have been hesitant to engage. Wal-Mart is VF’s largest customer,

accounting for 15.7 percent of total sales in 2005, or $1 billion, down from 16.4 per-cent in 2003. All of those sales come from VF’s jeanswear and intimate apparel business segments.

VF has installed research teams in Bentonville, Ark., to study Wal-Mart’s overall apparel needs and ways VF can exploit those opportunities over the long term. The team may have helped mitigate potentially signifi cant sales losses after Wal-Mart announced during the fi rst quarter of 2006 that it would be devoting more of its women’s apparel space to its private label brands.

Levi Strauss’ mass channel Levi Strauss Signature brand, a business that had been booming since its introduction in 2003, immediately plunged.

Signature sales fell 20.2 percent to $70.2 million during the fi rst quarter of 2006. Signature sales have continued to slide since. On Oct. 11, the

company announced third-quarter results, stat-ing that U.S. Signature sales fell 10.9 percent to $92.8 million during the quarter from the prior year. The entirety of the sales decline stemmed from a $13 million decrease in women’s sales at Wal-Mart. The company has halted sales of the line in Europe altogether.

VF, on the other hand, has not experienced the same levels of loss. During the VF’s fi rst-quarter conference call McDonald said Wal-Mart’s efforts have centered not on getting more people into the stores, but getting more people into the apparel section.

“They have been successful,” he said, which has ultimately benefi ted VF. “We feel as the con-sumer gets more interested in apparel and as they compare pricing and compare products, they are choosing our brands, which has been benefi cial to us.”

The results have spoken for themselves. Revenues are expected to hit $7 billion this year. Wall Street has rewarded the company, as well. In October 2002, shares were trading at around $29. Shares are now trading at more than double that, reaching a new 52-week high in intraday trading of $76.25 on Oct. 11.

Other major apparel manufacturers have not fared as well. Shares of Kellwood traded between $21 and $22 in January 2002 and closed at $31.12 on Monday. Its reliance on the department store

channel has made achieving growth diffi cult. Women’s sportswear accounted for $1.25 billion in sales in 2005, representing about 60 percent of the company’s total sales. Men’s sportswear generated $498 million, or 24 percent of total sales.

Jones’ stock market performance has been more erratic over the last fi ve years, swinging from $25 a share in December 2001 to more than $40 a share in 2002 before defl ating back into the $20 range. Shares have been on the decline since the middle of 2004, closing at $33.14 on Monday.

Liz Claiborne shares have been relatively fl at for the past fi ve years. Shares trad-ed between $24 to $25 in January 2002, and have hovered around the $40-a-share mark ever since. Claiborne shares closed on Monday at $40.96.

— Ross Tucker

Continued from page one

A North Face jacket. Inset: Mackey McDonald.

6

VF Corp. Leads the Pack in Multibranded Strategy

manufacturing giants. Over the last 10 years, the group has shed its reputation as a conservative, domestically focused manufacturer of commodity products, such as denim and intimates, to become the largest apparel company in the U.S., with sales of $6.5 billion a year. It has done so by acquiring and growing a portfolio of lifestyle brands that exist outside the department store channel and have global distribution.

Several industry changes have shaken the formula Kellwood, Jones and Claiborne had perfected, among them:

● Retail consolidation: The number of department stores — the primary channel of distribution for their brands — has shrunk drastically, not only reducing the number of retail clients, but also empowering retailers with more buying clout.

● Private label: Their biggest customers now double as their primary competitors, as stores develop more in-house or exclusive lines, from INC and O by Oscar de la Renta at Federated Department Stores Inc. to Vera Wang at Kohl’s. Retailers demand only what they can’t make for themselves: destination brands. “To be a profi table business you have to do something for your retail customer that they can’t do for themselves,” said Emanuel Weintraub, of the consulting fi rm that bears his name. “What is it that moderate can do for the re-tailer that they can’t do for themselves? The answer is

increasingly less and less.” ● Cross-shopping: Department store customers —

particularly moderate consumers — have replaced the one-stop department store with comparison shopping at the Wal-Marts, Targets and H&Ms of the world. And while Wal-Mart and Target want brands, most of their apparel is dominated by their own labels — from Metro 7 at Wal-Mart to Isaac Mizrahi at Target. While Metro 7 is sourced from Pacifi c Alliance, increasingly these mass market behemoths are sourcing themselves rather than through a third party.

And it’s not that Jones, Kellwood and Claiborne haven’t tried to diversify their portfolios. They’ve snapped up brands in the belief that if one segment is having a rough time, another will be hot and make up for the shortfall.

But analysts worry the three fi rms have done too little too late. Across the pond, European giants with multibrand portfolios, like LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and Gucci Group, have fared better than their American counterparts. Why? Luxury is soaring while moderate is holding on for dear life. Domestic fl agship labels, such as Liz Claiborne, Jones New York and Sag Harbor, plus a roster of lower-profi le moderate lines, are aimed at a market that continues to lose ground.

Analysts suggest strategies to survive in today’s chal-lenging environment:

● Invest in destination brands: Trade moderate

brands for ones with a personality and a following that differentiate them from private label offerings, allowing for increased margins. Although some of the companies have acquired such labels, in many cases, they have failed to market them aggressively enough.

● Find alternative channels: As department store de-mand tapers, fi nd new buyers, whether specialty stores, e-commerce or a label’s own store. VF, for instance, has cultivated alternative avenues of distribution with its The North Face, Vans and Kipling lines.

There is hope. These are multibillion-dollar com-panies that have survived decades of market ups and downs, and their size uniquely positions them to capi-talize on buying power and back offi ce operations.

But perhaps their very size and diversity makes it diffi cult for these companies to adjust to marketplace changes, suggested Eric Beder, an analyst with Brean Murray, Carret & Co. “The question is, what is the rea-son for them?” he said. “At the end of the day, if you could sell it to a private equity fi rm, there is probably more value to these publicly held companies if they were split, so the brands could revitalize themselves if they were stand-alone brands that could be more agile. Are these [megabranded] companies better off dead than alive?”

Here, a look at the strategies the four apparel indus-try giants are taking to succeed in a diffi cult market-place.

The Big 4 Adjust to a Challenging WorldReady-to-Wear Report

WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2006

After taking itself off the market two months ago, Jones Apparel Group is left doing its own remodeling. Jones chief executive offi cer Peter Boneparth chose the old house analogy to describe

the Bristol, Pa.-based giant, and analysts are inclined to agree the company’s $5.07 billion portfolio is in need of an update.

For the fi rst half of the year, Jones’ earnings plummeted 55.9 percent to $62.5 million, or 53 cents a diluted share, from $141.8 million, or $1.17, in the same year-ago period. With these numbers and the reality that no buyer would meet its asking price, Jones’ strategy and leadership have fallen under scrutiny.

Analysts are divided on the wisdom of the fi rm’s string of acquisitions since 1998, which include Nine West Group Inc. in 1999, Gloria Vanderbilt Apparel Group Corp. in 2002 and Barneys New York Inc. in 2004.

“Jones used to have a bunch of really strong brands, but the mix of businesses they have now is challenging — all areas are not disasters, but there’s not a lot of growth potential either,” said Elizabeth Montgomery, analyst for Cowen & Co. “Jones has bought brands that do not have great synergies or advantages with economies of scale.”

Montgomery cites Barneys, one of many buys that some analysts applaud while others question. “Barneys did give them exposure to the high-end consumer, but it did not give them any economy of scale, and in the long term, the operational margins at Barneys are going to be well below Jones’ as a whole,” Montgomery said. “If they took a good look at these portfolios, and took these brands that did not add to their economy of scale, they could have more cash fl ow to invest into their other brands, like Nine West.”

Barneys does connect Jones to the thriving luxury market and to retail — both desirable footholds. Although the store does not carry the lines that Jones manufactures, it does inspire high-end thinking, according to Boneparth, who cites Nine West’s collaborations last spring

with designers Vivienne Westwood, Thakoon and Sophia Kokosalaki.If Jones ever decides to sell off some of its holdings, some believe Barneys could make a

prime acquisition for Neiman Marcus Group or even a hedge fund.

7

Kellwood Co.’s DNA is in private label, which is why it’s ironic that the surge of retailers’ own brands

has given the St. Louis fi rm such a hard time.In 1961, 15 suppliers to Sears, Roebuck & Co.

merged to form what is today a $2 billion manufac-turer. In the early Eighties, Kellwood started making acquisitions, buying Smart Shirts Ltd., which for most of the last two decades has produced competitively priced private label tops, and then buying moderate brand after moderate brand, including Sag Harbor. In the process, Kellwood established the strategy it uses to this day — manufacturing other company’s lines via licensing arrangements.

But as the retail climate changed, analysts argue, Kellwood did not, although some observers are see-ing hopeful signs under new ceo Robert C. Skinner Jr. As department stores consolidat-ed, Kellwood played its cards poorly, losing key accounts for Sag Harbor. As stores built private label, Kellwood lost its competitive advantage to fi rms like Asian sourcing giant Li & Fung. And as department stores dropped moderate brands and midtier chains developed ex-clusives, low-profi le moderate brands continued to dominate Kellwood’s portfolio.

“In essence, I think the company is having problems transitioning from a ‘moder-ate’ enterprise to a culture that understands how to cultivate more value-added ‘branded’ suppliers,” said Todd Slater, managing director and senior retail analyst at Lazard Capital Markets LLC. “If it focuses more keenly on product, hires talented designers and gives them the freedom to create, they can produce more compel-ling product and become better brand managers and the future could be bright….Their issues are largely self-infl icted.”

It’s been a rough few years for Kellwood. Although sales increased in 2004, earnings dipped slightly. In 2005, sales fell more than 6 percent, mostly due to a 10 percent revenue erosion in women’s sportswear, and the company endured a net loss of $38.4 million. Kellwood swung into profi tability in the second quar-ter of this year, and for the fi rst half of 2006 earnings increased to $16.4 million, or 63 cents a share, from a loss of $67.1 million, or $2.40, in the year-ago period.

The company’s core brand, Sag Harbor, epitomizes

many of Kellwood’s problems, say analysts. Today, Sag Harbor makes up about 12 percent of the group’s sales, and it is getting a makeover — trying for a younger and more aspirational image — with Christie Brinkley as its new face.

A recent Prudential report questioned whether those efforts would be successful. “The company has been promising a fall turn for Sag Harbor for over a year, and now the pace of decline in the business is accelerating,” the report said. “We think the brand is losing relevance and will continue to lose space as re-tailers focus on updated brands and private label.”

Brad Stephens, an analyst with Morgan Keegan & Co., noted, “National brands in the moderate segment are over. One of the last ones is Sag Harbor, which is

why I am not sold on the fact that it will be viable in the long run.”

But times may be chang-ing at Kellwood. In 2005, when Skinner took over, manage-ment reviewed the portfo-lio and began a $225 million restructuring to streamline its moderate business and in-crease the percentage of high-er-end destination brands in its portfolio.

A lot has happened since. Last year, Kellwood sold its moderate areas, including David Brooks, Dotti and Bifl ex Intimates Group, and last week Kellwood and Philips-Van Heusen mutually agreed that Kellwood would return to PVH the women’s sportswear license for Izod, a moderate brand.

“I think Bob Skinner is taking the right approach by trying to divest themselves of the weaker brands,” said Elizabeth Montgomery, ana-lyst for Cowen & Co. “Bob

Skinner came from Oxford, which was for a long time doing licensing for Tommy Hilfi ger and Ralph Lauren, and then lost key licenses and used that experience to learn they needed to buy things like Tommy Bahama. I think Bob Skinner will take that experience and will do the same thing here.”

While Kellwood tries to temper its moderate pres-ence, it is building higher-profi le lines through acquisi-tions and licensing deals. In 2004, it bought Phat Farm for $140 million, and while that label has struggled in the last two years, the women’s brand, Baby Phat, has thrived. Last month, Kellwood bought fast-growing

contemporary line Vince. On the licensing front, it re-launched the Calvin Klein better women’s sportswear line for fall, is relaunching O Oscar as a better line for spring in an exclusive deal with Macy’s and just won the license for the ck Calvin Klein bridge sportswear line, which it will redesign for spring 2008.

“Relaunching O Oscar and Calvin Klein is an op-portunity for them to prove they are a viable licensee, but relaunches of labels very rarely work. Once labels fail once, it’s hard to resuscitate them a second time,” Stephens said. “You have to be concerned by a port-folio like that, because you have to worry that when their contract is up, they may lose it. But they have been very forthright that they know their strategy has to evolve.”

— W.B.

Kellwood Plays Catch-up With Destination Brands

Removing the ‘For Sale’ Sign, Jones Reexamines Portfolio

A Jones New York Collection fall ad.

A Sag Harbor fall ad.

Continued on page 8

Robert C. Skinner Jr.

WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2006WWD.COM

Liz Claiborne’s new chief executive officer, Johnson

& Johnson group chairman William L. McComb, might need a Tylenol to deal with what is sure to be a headache.

Effective Nov. 6, McComb will take over as ceo and a member — not chairman — of Claiborne’s board. The board appointed its own longtime member Kay Koplovitz, 61, as nonexecutive chair, starting Jan. 1.

After a more than 16-month search, on Monday Claiborne fi nally made the long-awaited appointment of McComb, 43, an industry outsider with a 14-year tenure at the pharmaceuti-cal giant. McComb has an MBA from the University of Chicago Graduate School of Business and a undergraduate degree in economics from Miami University of Ohio.

He comes without apparel experience, following in the footsteps of Paul Pressler at Gap Inc., Phil Marineau at Levi Strauss & Co. and William Perez, who resigned as Nike Inc. ceo in January after just 13 months — and who reportedly was approached as a candidate in the Claiborne search.

Paul Charron, Caliborne’s chairman and ceo, will remain chairman until the end of the year, when Koplovitz takes over. He will stay on as a consultant for another full year and be-come chairman emeritus.

Speculation on the quiet search put the choice between an external candidate and inter-nal choice, Claiborne president Trudy Sullivan.

After being passed over for the top spot at Claiborne, Sullivan might jump ship, head-hunters and analysts specu-lated. Claiborne is not raising Sullivan’s salary to keep her, saying that it gave her a raise on her promotion to president in January. Sullivan, who has been with the company since 2001, was the only internal candidate being considered. Two years of poaching have left Claiborne’s executive ranks picked over, and Sullivan’s departure would further drain the company of in-

tellectual capital.“If Trudy is not the next ceo

of Liz Claiborne, she is ceo ma-terial and will be a great ceo somewhere else,” said Margaret Mager, retail analyst and manag-ing director for Goldman Sachs & Co., last week before the an-nouncement. “The company has shown its ability to build talent that goes on to pepper the in-dustry. If she doesn’t get the ceo spot there, someone else will see her potential.”

Analysts point to the de-partures of other executives: Angela Ahrendts, who resigned as executive vice president in October 2005 to head Burberry; Gail Cook, group president of bridge brands, who left in 2004 to start her own consulting fi rm and then was named president of Kellwood’s David Meister brand; Denise Johnston, presi-dent and chief merchandising offi cer for the better and mod-erate division, who left to be-come president of Gap Adult in April, and Bob Negrón, a group president at Liz Claiborne Inc. for more than seven years, who resigned his post, effective June 30, to pursue other interests.

While this poaching is a nod to the company’s talent pool and management experience, it means there are fewer se-nior executives left to support McComb as he learns the intri-cacies of the apparel industry.

And his learning curve will be a steep one, given Claiborne’s current woes. Charron, a Harvard MBA with experi-ence at VF Corp. and Procter & Gamble Co., led the vendor through 40 consecutive quarters of growth, taking it from a $2 bil-lion fi rm with fi ve brands in the mid-Nineties to a $4.85 billion fi rm with a diverse portfolio of 46 brands and its own stores today. But that growth came to an abrupt halt this year.

Liz Claiborne’s winning streak could be coming to an end. For the fi rst six months of 2006, earnings were down 31.2 percent, to $86.4 million, or 84 cents, from $125.6 million, or $1.17, in the year-ago period.

The 2006 earnings slump and what Charron called “our

less than stellar performance in 2005” in that year’s annual report may be signs of things to come. Some dismiss it all as the nature of the apparel business — sometimes you get it right and sometimes you don’t. Others point out that higher levels of fashion — like Juicy Couture, Lucky Brand and redesigned mature brands — bring on high-er levels of risk. In the higher-fashion, higher-risk business Claiborne has cultivated, lead-ership becomes even more im-portant, according to analysts, who are worried no one can re-place the deifi ed Charron.

Having made allowances for questionable brands in the past because of its faith in the com-pany’s leadership, Prudential recently downgraded Claiborne stock. A Prudential report la-mented, “Liz does have some great brands, but it also has quite a few brands that are performing just OK, and some that we would characterize as problematic.”

Today, Claiborne’s portfo-lio is a mix of moderate lines, which make up 11 percent of sales; better brands, including the eponymous Liz Claiborne brand, that make up about 25 percent of sales; bridge brands, like Dana Buchman and Ellen Tracy, that have received make-overs after a tough year, and contemporary acquisitions like Juicy Couture and Lucky Brand Jeans.

The $533.5 million chunk that moderate brands contribute sends up a red fl ag. “The Street is very skeptical of the moder-ate zone because more retail customers are doing proprietary brands that are replacing their demand for moderate,” said Brad A. Stephens, an analyst for Morgan Keegan & Co. Inc.

Analysts suggest Claiborne has long “hidden” the stag-nation of its “mature, tired brands” through acquisitions of hot, growing brands — although many of these have been tiny. Those may be harder to come by today, and there’s competi-tion from private equity. After Claiborne’s public loss of J. Jill to Talbots and Seven For All Mankind to Bear Stearns,

it’s clear Liz is not the only one vying for destination brands. Even some insiders complain that while Charron has bought a large number of brands, he’s been stingy when it comes to in-vesting in their growth and mar-keting them aggressively, apart from a few.

“The pool of sizable brands that can add that oomph to

a company that size has de-clined,” said analyst Beder. “They managed to hide the problem for a long time by buy-ing more brands. You can’t add many companies that move the needle when you already own 40 brands. How big would that com-pany have to be, and how many of those companies still exist?”

— W.B.

Life After Charron: Liz Faces Uncertain Future

A fall ad for the Liz Claiborne brand.

8

Nine West again divides analysts, who say the division has potential that isn’t being actualized. Its stores give Jones more of its own retail presence, and Nine West was hot — generating $1.92 billion in revenues and $40.4 million in profi ts — when Jones bought it seven years ago for $1.4 billion. But under Jones’ leadership, the brand has matured and business has slid, with volume hovering around $1 billion.

“Nine West is a brand that is very important to the department stores, but I sense that the footwear business is weakening because of competition,” said Brad A. Stephens, an analyst for Morgan Keegan & Co. Inc. “Steve Madden is an infi nitely better competitor.”

Nine West heads a division that includes a range of moderate to bridge brands, including Easy Spirit, Bandolino, Enzo Angiolini — not analysts’ favorite markets, but where many of its acquisitions fall. In 2002, Jones bought moderate denim company Gloria Vanderbilt Apparel Corp., and then in 2001, it followed with McNaughton Apparel Group Inc., which makes moderate brands including Norton McNaughton, Erika, Energie, Jamie Scott and Currants. It was the McNaughton deal that initially brought Boneparth to Jones.

But Boneparth stands by the quality of his fi rm’s brands, adding that Kohl’s position as a fast-growing retailer shows that moderate is not a dying business.

“In a portfolio this big, there will always be brands at different

stages. Just like if you own a stock portfolio, some stocks will be performing well when others are down,” insisted Boneparth. “We do about $1 billion of retail sales for Federated. By defi nition, that means we have a lot of destination brands. Our brands are very, very healthy.”

On the other hand, the Street likes Jones’ 2003 acquisition of Kasper Ltd., which does women’s suits and sportswear under the Kasper, Le Suit, Albert Nipon and Anne Klein labels.

But Jones has suffered one key blow during Boneparth’s tenure. After building extensive licensing partnerships with Polo Ralph Lauren since 1995, Jones and Polo split in 2003, and a lawsuit ensued. Consultant Emanuel Weintraub said the hit Jones suffered in losing the Polo licenses can hardly be overstated. “Their issue is simply branding and marketing bench strength,” Weintraub said. “They need to be fi nding and developing the brands that have the Ralph Lauren cachet.”

But after Jones’ unsuccessful attempt to sell itself, the analyst community is skeptical of its strategy and leadership. A recent Prudential report commented, “We could see a management change at the top…and we still believe Jones would be better off trying to execute a turn if key executive positions were upgraded.”

A management change at Jones might be good for the stock, Montgomery added. “It’s time to divest instead of acquire,” she said. “Peter is more of a fi nancial person, and it may be time to focus on the merchandising of the products and to stop acquiring things.”

— W.B.

Continued from page 7

Jones Tries to Get Its House in OrderPeter

Boneparth

WWD.COMWWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2006

By Vicki Rothrock

HONG KONG — As China exerts increasing influence in the tex-tile and garment industries, companies striving to be competitive are starting to diversify and become more vertical.

Lark International Apparel, a sourcing company based in Hong Kong, started transforming its business model two years ago to that of a manufacturer to “strengthen the business,” said Anita Li, who coordinates brochures and other marketing research functions for the company. “The apparel business may be a good business, but it’s getting harder and harder.”

Privately held Lark, an exhibi-tor at Interstoff Asia Autumn this month, set up three joint-venture factories in southern China and two joint-venture offi ces. Lark also has a sample-making plant in Dongguan, China, and works with other fac-tories in the country, as well as in Southeast Asia, Central America, the Middle East, Eastern Europe and Africa. Offi ces are in Hong Kong, Macau, New York and Vancouver.

Lark expanded to three show-rooms from one in September and there are three in-house designers who can help clients develop their products. The company also has its own fashion label, Urchin, that it’s planning to expand in department stores. The brand is supported by an offi ce and designer in New York.

“We can provide design ideas to customers as a service…and widen clients’ lines,” Li said.

Companies in Cambodia have also made adjustments to remain competitive. The government is working to improve the import-ex-port process and is focusing on corruption, said Ken Loo, secretary general of the Garment Manufacturers Association in Cambodia.

The benefi t of Cambodia is that labor is cheap and there’s good market access because of its Least Developed Country status, Loo said, adding that the overall quality has improved.

Loo said that Gap has always been Cambodia’s biggest buyer, in addition to Marks & Spencer, Adidas and Sears. “The industry prides itself on on-time delivery,” he said.

Some fi rms have tried to upgrade and offer services such as embroidery and printing, but Cambodia doesn’t have design ca-pacity yet and also hasn’t attracted a textile industry. It imports all raw materials.

Exports from Cambodia increased 20 percent in value and 30 percent in quantity year-on-year, said Loo, adding, “We’re export-ing more, but that doesn’t mean we’re making more money.”

The rush to manufacture in China hasn’t been as extreme as some feared.

We’re “not seeing the big sucking sound that everyone thought would go to China,” said Michael Que, director of the Confederation of Garment Exporters of the Philippines.

Among the things that the Philippines can improve are speed-to-market, quality, modernized machinery and design, he said. But ultimately, the industry is price-driven now as op-posed to quota-driven. That’s a better situation for the buyer, Que said, because the big brands give a target price before a

proto-sample is even made.The real test, however, will be competing with China once quo-

tas are gone in 2009, he said, adding that the Philippines needs to work on a free-trade agreement with the U.S. because it isn’t clear what will happen then.

“If I’m tariff-free in the States…maybe I might have an 8 per-cent cost advantage over China,” Que said. “The hope is always that China does well because the region does well.”

He added that growing consumerism in China “will take away the pain to some extent.”

There are some companies, however, that don’t feel a pressing need to offer more value-added ser-vices. Fabric and garment company Winwell Group from Jiangsu, China, has no plans to expand its services or hire a designer.

Eighty percent of clients bring their own samples, but the company also has a showroom with some de-signs on offer, said Mike Lee, who is part of the import-export department in the textile division, which has 150 staffers. The bulk of Winwell’s cli-ents are from the Asia-Pacifi c region, while 20 percent are from the U.S. and 30 percent from Europe. The company has six factories in China.

Trade show organizer Messe Frankfurt stuck with its revamped Interstoff format that reflects a one-stop-shopping model. The fair,

which ran from Oct. 4 to 6, had 267 exhibitors this year compared with more than 280 in 2005 with 10,514 buyers. Organizers said 8,821 buyers attended the fair this year. Countries represented included Austria, China, Hong Kong, Italy, Japan, South Korea, Pakistan, Taiwan, Turkey and the U.K.

Source It, an ASEAN event, made its fall debut and ran con-currently with Interstoff. There were 45 participants from eight countries: Cambodia, China including Hong Kong, Laos, Malaysia, the Netherlands, the Philippines, Thailand and Vietnam.

WWD.COM9WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2006

Textile & Trade Report

Asian Firms Shift Sourcing StrategiesMONTREAL — Algo Group has sold its fashion fabrics business in the U.S. to Artistry Fabrics of New York for an undisclosed amount.

Proceeds from the sale will be used to pay down debt. The fashion fabrics division, which includes Hamil America and the Hamil Textiles division of Tangiers International, will stop designing, importing, distribution and selling fabric.

The fashion fabrics unit’s sales were $3.7 million in the second quarter ended June 30, down 40 percent from a year earlier. Algo’s total sales during the same period dropped to $9.5 million from $11.8 million. All figures have been converted from Canadian dollars. Despite the sales decline in fash-ion fabrics, the segment posted a quarterly profi t of $720,000 versus $10,000 a year ago, because of the conversion of a U.S. dollar loan into Canadian dollars.

Montreal-based Algo said it wanted to concentrate on its core businesses, which include the re-cently acquired North American licensing rights for Rodier wom-en’s and men’s wear and Ted Lapidus men’s wear. It also signed a licensing deal with Levi Strauss & Co. to manufacture and sell home furnishings in the U.S.

Algo Sells U.S. Fabric Division

By Ross Tucker

Delta Woodside Industries has filed for bankruptcy

protection and announced its intention to shut operations. Its Delta Mills subsidiary manufactured fabric for Levi Strauss, Lee, the Gap and the U.S. military.

The Fountain Inn, S.C., company fi led for Chapter 11 protection in the U.S. Bank-ruptcy Court for the District of Delaware on Friday, citing for-eign competition and “overca-pacity in the domestic textile business” as principle factors.

“Delta Mills continues to encounter business problems and diffi culties, and to sustain signifi cant losses with each fi scal year,” said William H. Hardman, chief fi nancial of-fi cer, in a certifi cate of resolu-tions from the fi rm’s board.

According to Hardman’s

fi ling, the company suffered its fi nal blow in August when the U.S. Defense Department reduced its orders from ap-parel manufacturers that used Delta Mills’ fabrics. This segment of the business rep-resented “a primary source of the entire Delta Mills’ profi t margin,” said Hardman.

The company employs 600 people and operates two fac-tories in South Carolina, both of which will be closed in the coming weeks and liquidat-ed in an effort to reimburse creditors.

Like many domestic tex-tile manufacturers, Delta had been forced to make aggres-sive cuts to survive in recent years. In October 2004, the company revealed plans to close its spinning and weav-ing mill in Piedmont, S.C., eliminating 361 jobs, or about 25 percent of its workforce.

Delta Goes Bankrupt, to Shutter

Doing business at Interstoff Asia.

10 WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2006

Play BallFor spring, designers are playing with motifs and shapes inspired by sports such as football, baseball and track. The results: letter tanks, knickers and ornamented caps.

Just Cavalli

Iceberg Sonia Rykiel Marni

WWD.COM11WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2006

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WWD.COM12 WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2006

In Transit

European Ports Grapple With Security InitiativesBy Nina Jones

LONDON — Following the 2001 terrorist attacks in the U.S., European ports, like their American counterparts, have focused on stepping up the physical security of their facilities and better assessing the risk of a container’s contents.

Several global initiatives are now looking to illuminate every link in the cargo chain by pushing security measures beyond port fences.

Initial security measures to detect tampered cargo centered on analyzing the risk of containers’ declared contents and any prior intelligence about the shipper. The next step, proposed by the International Maritime Organization in 2002, was the International Ship & Port Facility Security Code. Since being im-plemented in July 2004, 116 countries have been signed up to the ISPS code, which has brought about the appointment of port facil-ity security offi cers and ship security offi cers, the implementation of security plans and checks when the ships depart.

“It starts with screening the ships before they get into port,” said a spokesman for the port of Amsterdam, who explained that all ships entering member ports must have an ISPS certifi cate, in-dicating that they have been security checked by offi cials at their port of origin.

It also logs the last 10 ports the ships have visited. In the U.K., this program is run by the Department for Transport’s security directorate, or TRANSEC, and the Marine and Coastguard agency, which said it works with companies to minimize the impact on cargo fl ow.

“TRANSEC is aware of the potential costs and commercial implications to indus-try,” said the government body in a statement. “The U.K. government has worked hard to provide as much support and guidance to industry as possible to help with implementation of the code.”

The added security checks at ports are refl ected in surcharges for companies ship-ping goods.

In addition, a European Union regulation on supply chain security was proposed in February. Under the proposed regulation, companies could voluntarily allow back-ground checks to be performed on company directors, their logistics chain and trans-port methods in exchange for having their shipments fast-tracked through customs. However, some industry sectors fear the voluntary basis of the program will exclude smaller shippers who cannot afford the cost of researching their supply chain.

“We would like to see a compulsory minimum level of security checks, rather than companies applying for ‘Secure Shipper’ status on a voluntary basis,” said Patrick Verhoeven, secretary general of the European Seaports Organization. “The good compa-nies will get better, but the bad links in the chain will stay as they are.”

Verhoeven said the regulation proposal was similar to the U.S. Customs Trade Partnership Against Terrorism program, to which some European companies doing business with the U.S. also belong.

“As long as there’s not a delay in getting retailers accredited, [the proposed regulation] will speed up shipments,” said Michael Gallagher, policy executive at the British Retail Consortium. “Our concern is that, as the proposal isn’t mandatory, people won’t get ready

on time. We’re advising our members it’s better to be safe than sorry, to guarantee conti-nuity in their supply chain.”

On a global level, the World Customs Organization introduced standards to secure and facilitate global trade framework, also known as SAFE, in June 2005, which looks into the security of closed cargo transport units. The framework recommends the introduction of advanced electronic information on shipments, risk management to address security threats, the inspection of high-risk containers before they leave their port of origin and benefi ts to businesses that meet security standards.

There is no fi xed date for the framework to come into force, but the WCO rec-ommends that governments implement it “as soon as possible.” European ports, in-cluding Amsterdam and Rotterdam, also participate in the U.S. Container Security Initiative, whereby U.S. customs offi cials assist in screening U.S.-bound high-risk cargo at foreign ports.

To create further transparency in the supply chain, several private companies are developing RFID technology that would allow customs offi cials to detect the exact location of a package, how long it has been waiting at a port and whether or not it has been opened. Though industry experts say this is unlikely to come into force in the near future.

“Mandating specifi c measures, such as electronically checking [cargo] seals, would depend on how [individual] contracting governments decide,” said a spokeswoman for the International Maritime Organization, which invited the World Customs Organization to consider measures to enhance security in the movement of cargo transport units.

“[The new cargo security measures] have made life very diffi cult, as it creates a whole new level of administration,” said Laurian Davies, women’s wear executive at U.K. Fashion Exports, a U.K. trade association. “But manufacturers have to provide the information, as they want the business.”

By John Zarocostas

GENEVA — A European Union business survey identi-fied China, the source of two-thirds of all counterfeit goods seized in the EU, including luxury items and textiles and apparel, as the top priority in the battle against counterfeiting.

Luxury goods and textiles and apparel account for the bulk of EU customs seizures, although less than they did a few decades ago, given the explosion in counterfeiting in a whole range of goods, said Peter Mandelson, a spokesman for EU trade commission-er. Between 1998 and 2004, EU customs seizures of counterfeited goods were valued at 103 million euros (about $129 million at current exchange rates), but of-fi cials noted that amount likely represents only a frac-tion of the black-market commerce.

The survey by the EU’s executive arm, the European Commission, drew on about 290 replies from enterprises and trade associations in 63 countries. It also concluded that counterfeiting of European brand-ed goods is enormous in emerging countries where en-forcement is weak.

Replies from foreign-owned companies and agents

based in China noted that local manufacturers have re-sorted to the “corporate veil” and “shell game” to avoid enforcement of license and patent right accords.

“A complex network of thinly capitalized compa-nies are established,” the survey said. “These corpo-rate siblings use similar business names, share trade-marks, customer bases and supplies.”

The licensing revenues lost in China were estimat-ed in excess of 100 million euros ($125 million) in 2005 alone.

Among the problems were corruption, lack of crim-inal prosecution of counterfeiters, poor coordination among enforcement authorities and failure by cus-toms to adequately inspect and detain shipments of counterfeit goods.

The survey said in Hong Kong counterfeiting of trademarks and designs is found mainly in luxury goods such as apparel, handbags and watches, and noted that counterfeiting remains a problem “due to Hong Kong’s proximity to Guangdong province” in mainland China.

In Argentina, the study said the spectrum of coun-terfeiting is “quite wide” and includes the infringement of trademarks in textiles, apparel, footwear and luxury

products. Infringement is also widespread in neighbor-ing Brazil, on goods including textiles and apparel.

In Turkey, a major textiles and apparel exporting country, activity is widespread in the counterfeiting of trademarks and designs in textiles and sporting goods. The study said counterfeit textile manufacturers not only supply the Turkish market, but also “produce a substantial portion of the counterfeit products found in Western European markets.”

The report identifi ed the Turkish cities of Adana, Bursa, Istanbul, Izmir and Mersina as major counter-feit production areas for textiles. Turkey, along with Russia, Ukraine and Chile, have been identifi ed as second-level priority countries after China.

In Mexico, the survey estimated counterfeit textiles and apparel mainly imported from China account for 58 percent of the market and said the country is used as a transit point for counterfeit goods destined for the U.S. and sometimes the EU. The study said coun-terfeit textiles and apparel were also a major prob-lem in Egypt, Indonesia, India, Pakistan and Thailand. The EU indicated it does not exclude the possibility of action in the World Trade Organization against major violating countries.

EU Survey Cites China as Primary Source of Counterfeits

A satellite image of the Port of

Rotterdam, one of Europe’s busiest

cargo ports.

“We would like to see a compulsory minimum level of security checks, rather than companies applying for ‘Secure Shipper’ status on a voluntary basis.”

— Patrick Verhoeven, European Seaports Organization

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14 WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2006

NATIONAL MARKETPLACE

Women’s Apparel Line Wtd.Upscale suburban specialty store,

opening 2007, seeks classically styledlines of women’s apparel - suits,

separates, day and evening wear.E-mail brenda@goldmarkgroup.com

CLEARANCE SALE12,000 Printed Flannel Shirts; Ladies’Denim Garments, Call or Fax Mitr at:Tel: 240- 832-5473 / Fax: 301-572-2092

Search For Space In Garment CenterShowroom/Office/Retail - no fee

www.midcomre.comOr Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100

Showrooms & LoftsBWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS

Great ’New’ Office Space AvailADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500

Showroom sublet - 36th & 5th2500 Ft Showroom - Fully Built

Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043Search- www.manhattanoffices.com

Handbag Co seeks PartnerGrowing Handbag business seeks strate-gic partnership, or equity investment.Contact: handbagpartners@yahoo.com

INVESTORSeeking an Investor w/mfg. capablilitiesto form a partnersgip with an emergingwomen’s clothing line. Call 917-589-2753

SEEKING PARTNEREstablished manufacturing companyseeks a partner with strong marketcontacts & marketing skills to launchnew line. Must have proven, currentsolid contacts to generate new business.Excellent opportunity for growth.

Please email resume to:HIGHRISE@THEUSED.COM

CAD-GRAPHICS-FABRIC PRINTINGU4ia-Photoshp-Illustr: 212 679 6400

www.sanodesignworks.com

PATTERN/SAMPLESReliable. High quality. Low cost. Fastwork. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808

PATTERNS, SAMPLES,PRODUCTIONS

All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service.Call Sherry 212-719-0622.

PATTERNS, SAMPLES,PRODUCTIONS

Full service shop to the trade.Fine fast work. 212-869-2699.

FASHION RESUMESStaff Thru Executive-Wholesale/Retail

Free Evaluation - Lifetime UpdatesGILBERT CAREER RESUMES

(800)967-3846 amex/mc/visafashionresumes.com

Foot Locker, Inc.Product Line ManagerMen’s & Kid’s ApparelResponsible for creation ofall private label apparelstyles and management ofthe style from conceptionthrough delivery. Developseasonal style assortment.Responsible for all designprocesses including color,fit and final style approval.Manage daily operations ofMen’s & Kid’s private labelprograms from PO issuanceto final shipment of product.Min 7-10 yrs apparel productdevelopment experience,preferably with a retailcompany. Understanding ofbasic garment construction.costing, WEB PDM & Illustratorexp pref’d. Supervise 3 others.

PleaseEmail resume:employment@footlocker.com

Administrative AssistantMotivated self starter needed to assistprincipal of Garment Importer. Must bedetailed & organized. Duties: showroommaintenance, shipping follow-up, logisticsprocedures. Strong analytical & Excelskills req’d. Fax or E-mail resumes to:212-997-0242 / karishm@attglobal.net

Admin Since 1967

W-I-N-S-T-O-NAPPAREL STAFFING

DESIGN * SALES * MERCHADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION

(212)557-5000 F: (212) 986-8437

Allocations $55KGreat NYC Retailer!

Jobs@TheFashioNetwork.com

Colorist (Entry Level)Jr. import swtr. co seeks organized,detailed oriented person in all aspectsof color; managing lab submits, appro-vals, color cards, & all trim details.

Fax resume to: 646-572-0565attn: Roger / Donald

Credit & Accts.Receivables AnalystSptswr. co. has an immediate opening:• Analysis of F/S• Credit review & order approval• Collection of invoices & cb’s• Cash application interfaceYou should have 3-5 yrs. in the apparel

industry. Competitive compensationpkg. Email resume w/ salary req’s for

consideration. Victor@onestepup.com

Design

ASST. ACCESSORYDESIGNER

Looking for a designer with experiencein knitwear, headwear, and intimateapparel. Must be proficient in Illustratorand Photoshop.

Please e-mail resume to:accessoriesnyc@gmail.com

Designer - FreelanceNational children’s wear manufacturerlooking for Freelance designer forlayette. Must be creative with uniqueideas. Computer design and technicalknowledge a must.

Please e-mail resume toempopp113@hotmail.com

DESIGNERS*Designer-Missy Full Collection $80-$100K*Designer - Sweater/Knit $60-$90K*Designer - Denim Women $90K*Designer - Denim Girls $70-$90K*Designer Assoc- Menswear $55KTrends, Color, Fashion, Fabric & Trim

Illustrator/Photoshop. PDMKwanJessilyn@aol.com 212-947-3400

Wal-Mart stores is building a dynamic team of influential, creative directorsthat are able to drive fashion trend for the mass consumer market.

These positions are located in our NYC Trend Officeand provide an outstanding opportunity in our

dynamic environment as the world’s largest retailer!

We seek visionaries who can thrive andlead others in a fast paced Design Center.

Your exceptional talent will lead one of the following categories:Ladies Wear Men’s Wear

Shoes/Jewelry/AccessoriesChildren’s Wear

Creative Services

The primary responsibility for these positions are to interpret and drivethe trend and design direction including: color, print, pattern, silhouette,

and classification by gender and age segment for our businesses.

These extraordinary opportunities include competitive base salaries,with a generous bonus structure and equity plan.

For more information please view the positions in detail on our website at:www.walmartstores.com/career

Please e-mail resume to: eresume@wal-mart.com(Reference in subject line "New York Position")

Wal-Mart Stores, INC. is an EOE

DESIGNING DESIRE& MORE!

"ON THE MARKS" has many direct-hire and temp to direct-hire positionsfor MEN’S DESIGNERS for some of

NYC’s top firms. Some positionsrequire Web PDM and Illustrator.

Salary range to 55K.Other immediate openings include

IMPORT ASSISTANT 45K, Tempora rySHOWROOM/SALES ASSISTANTS,

EXECUTIVE ASSISTANTS,ASSISTANT DESIGNERS and

PRODUCTION COORDINATORSand PROD. ASST’S.

Email resume to devin@otmaa.comor mark@otmaa.com or

fax resume to 212-532-6892

DIRECTOR OFBUSINESS OPERATIONS

Mgr. w/ a min. of 10 yrs. exp. sought forNY based high-end RTW designer. Asa seasoned General Manager you areresponsible for bottom line results bydirectly managing &/or supporting allbusiness units including design, prod’n,admin, sales. Reporting to the Pres. youwill: leverage your live contacts in theRTW segment in support of overall busi-ness and brand development activities.You will possess strong knowledge offinancial management principles & havea thorough understanding of in-house& contractor based prod’n operations.This is a hands on, active position w/ anaverage travel req. of 1 week monthly,possibly more. NO CONSIDERATIONWILL BE GIVEN TO CANDIDATESLACKING CURRENT DESIGNER RTWEXPERIENCE.Strong references, background check,

& passion for the industry req’d.Email resume & cover with salary req’sto: Recruit-Fashions@hotmail.com

IMPORT COORD $$$$Coordinate Int’l Docs & LC’s

KwanJessilyn@aol.com 212-947-3400

•IMPORT PRODUCTION - Cut & Sew and Knits•DOMESTIC PRODUCTION•FABRIC BUYER•EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT•PR ASSISTANTSeeking exp’d. individuals to join a grow-ing company. Must be detail oriented,organized and comfortable in fast pacedenvironment. Come join an exciting team!E-mail: aimee@aliceandolivia.com

Patternmaker /Assistant Designer

With apparel background for growingmanufacturer of bulletproof vests. Thecompany is located in North Carolina.Min. 5 yrs. exp. Will pay for relocation.Med/Dental; 401K. E-mail resume tocathy@firstchoicearmor.com or mail:First Choice Armor, attn: C. Koren,209 Yelton St., Spindale, NC 28160.

PATTERNMAKERYOUNIQUE CLOTHINGJunior Sportswear company is seekingan experienced patternmaker. Flatpattern making specs and knowledgeof excel mandatory. Minimum 10 yearsexperience preferred.

Please email resumes to:robbeyou@aol.com or fax to:

212-764-0352

Print/Prod’n Coord.Missy sptswr co. seeks print / prod’ncoord w/ min. 3 yrs. exp. Need a teamplayer to work independently in a fast

paced environment. Duties includefabric, L/D, trim & print approval. Strong

print background a must! To asst.in the recoloring of prints. Excellentfollow-up skills w/ overseas nec. Mustbe computer literate, Photoshop exp.pref’d. Salary commensurate w/ exp.Please fax resume to: (212) 302-4193

Production AssistantChina based imptr/agent seeks bilingualMandarin/English Asst. to follow up allof the production process from TechPacks to Shipping. 3+ yrs of experiencewith garment technical language a must.Will generate commercial invoices andfollow-up payments from customers.

Please fax resume and salaryrequirements to: (212) 921-1876

PRODUCTIONBe part of an exciting, fast paced

team. Growing sportswear co seeks:Production Assistant - Entry Level

Asst Tech Designer -Entry to 2 yrs expComputer literate - Excel and Outlooka must. Good health benefits and 401KE-mail resume:sweatersco@yahoo.com

Production CoordinatorEric Javits Inc.

Fast paced better handbag co. located inLIC seeks person w/ min 3-5yrs exp tosupport all phases of overseas produc-tion. Prod development and sourcingexp a plus. Key responsibilities incldeveloping specs, measuring/evaluatingsamples, recording of all stylingchanges and communicating them tofactories. Computer proficiency/strongorganizational and follow up skills amust. Email resume w/ salary req to:

ProdCoordLIC@aol.com

PRODUCTION MANAGERMajor apparel co. seeks professional w/prior import private label women Jr.sportswear exp. Duties incl. liaison w/factories, managing T&A & all aspectsof production & quality issues. Min 5yrs exp with excellent communicationand computer skills. Competitivesalary and benefits.

HR@Lanausa.com Pls fax resume & salary history to:

212-239-1610

PRODUCTION MGRFast growing women’s apparelimporter is seeking a self motivatedindividual with full knowledge ofimport. Must be detail oriented withgood communication and computerskills. Multi-tasking abilities andAsia travel a must. Please sendcover letter with resume to Leah at:

FAX: 212-730-7872EMAIL: leahh@provencelook.com

DIRECTOR OF SALES - DRESSESA.B.S., a leader in contemporary/designer clothing seeks adynamic, highly motivated and dedicated individual to joinour dress division. Candidate will be responsible for managinga team of sales executives, as well as, direct sales responsibilityfor key accounts. Individual must be challenged to open upnew businesses, build existing businesses and re-build andstrengthen relationships within the marketplace. Establishedrelationships with Better/Contemporary Department storesand Specialty retailers a must. Minimum of 3-5 years salesexperience required.

Fax resume to: Attn: Human Resources(213) 891-2812 or email: hr@absstyle.com

E/O/E

PRODUCTION MGRGrowing contemp co seeks prod mgrw. knowl of entire prod. process, staffmgmt, prod calendar, oversee all proddetails, have knowl of better garmtmftg. oversee fittings, issue cut tkts.Comp prof req’d. Strong import &domest. exp a MUST. Fax resume to212-594-8539 or email db3jla@yahoo.com

PRODUCTION MGR.Well est’d fast paced NYC Accessory Co.seeking applicants with 5 years experi-ence in all aspects of production. Musthave exp. working with chain stores.Must be detailed oriented with strongcommunication & computer skills.

Please e-mail resume to:accessoriesnyc@gmail.com

*Production---Production*Assistants-Coordinators-Managers

Many Jobs-Excellent SalariesCall (212) 643-8090 Fax (212) 643-8127 (AGCY)

PRODUCT TECHMajor Jr. apparel co. seeks indiv. w/ min2 yrs exp in preparing tech packs forcut-n-sew, knits and woven tops. Otherresp. include: follow-up on samples,comm w/ overseas factories. Must haveknowledge of Illustrator / Photoshop &Excel. Fax resume to: 646-572-0565

Attn: Roger / Donald

Sales Asst./ReceptionistBetter Knitwear Co. seeks an organizedmulti-tasker w/good fashion sense andcomputer skills. E-mail resume to Mandyat: mandylin@verticaldesigninc.com

SKETCH ARTISTMajor apparel company seeks fastpaced, detail oriented sketch artist.Must be willing to multi task & haveknowledge of Illustrator CS2 on PC.

Pls fax resumes to: # 212-575-7009

TECHNICAL ASSTLeading mfr prvt label Div seeks TechAsst. Must be computer literate, excel.verbal & written communication skill.Individual is req’d efficient, fast pacedbut extremely detail oriented. Knitsknowl is a +. Pls e-mail resume to:

Production@AdriannaPapell.com

Technical DesignerDresses

Expanding NYC based dress co seeksexp’d Technical Designer. The idealcandidate will be responsible to preparetech packages, issue initial size specs,measure garments, garment fittings,issue fit comments & communicatew/overseas factories. Dress exp. inpattern making, technical sewingknowledge, sketching ability & profi-cient in Excel & Word.

Join a hard working team in a pleasantwork environment. Excellent Benefits ,

401K, Competitive Salary.Email Resume to: LTLenter@aol.com

TECHNICAL DESIGNERDress & Suit Co seeks Tech Pack De-signer w/ knowledge of garment con-struction, patternmaking, silhouette &flat sketching. Photoshop & Illustratora must. Fax resume: 212-695-8958

TECHNICAL DESIGNERLeading Designer & High Bridge Coseeks highly motivated Designer w/min 5 yrs exp to join our expandingproduction team. Must be detail ori-ented w/ strong garment constructionknwldge, fit commts, computer literate& exp w/overseas factories. Excellentsalary. Fax / e-mail res: 212-840-0205

shantak@terijonsports.com

Technical DesignOUTERWEAR

Ladies import apparel co. seeks techni-cal person w/ 5 years min experiencein pattern correction, construction,specs and production. Must be organ-ized, able to communicate w/ factories,strong attn to detail and proficient inIllustrator and Excel. Email resume to:

info@maverickapparel.com

Visual Display CoordGreat Opportunity!

A luxury jewelry brand is looking for aVisual Display Coordinator responsi-ble for company wide visual displayissues, including packaging develop-ment and trade show management.Will coordinate/manage projects withoutside agencies. 3-5 years relevantexperience. Send resume to:

aboule@strategicworkforce.com

Director of SalesEstablished handbag co. seeking directorof sales. 5 yrs wholesale sales exp inthe women’s accessories or apparelindustry a must. Great opportunity.Email resume to: bruce@putubag.com

SALES ASSISTANTNeeded for large ladies suit co. Will beworking closely w/ VP of Sales, Main-taining catalogues and Showroom.Strong Excel & Comm skills nec.

Please fax to (212) 302-5259.

SALES ASSISTANTWell est’d NYC Accessory Co. seeking ahighly motivated sales assistant. Musthave experience with buyers and mgmtwith major dept/chain stores, ie:Sears, JC Penney, Wal-Mart. Salary andcommission. Must be computer savvy.

Please e-mail resume to:accessoriesnyc@gmail.com

SALES EXECUTIVEEst’d & diverse better knit importer seek-ing creative, well-connected individualfor dept. store & private label business.Email resumes: PrintedTops@msn.com

SALES EXECUTIVEFast growing women’s & men’s apparelimporter, loc. in Midtown Manhattan,seeks polished, creative & aggressivesales executive. Candidate must bestreet smart, well spoken, quick, detailoriented, sophisticated and capable ofworking with chain stores. Candidatemust have a minimum of 7 yrs experi-ence and enjoy working in a fastpaced, entrepreneurial environment.Great compensation package, generousbase salary + commissions. Potentialcandidates may fax cover letter andresume to: 212-704-2003

Sales ExecutiveWomen’s contemporary private labelsweater company is seeking a highlymotivated experienced sales executiveto increase private label chain storebusiness. Must have buyer contacts.

Please fax resume to 212-354-9099

Sales $ OPEN BOE. Current strongexp in selling kids sportswear. Mini-mum volume 4-5 mil. Established wellknown firm. Call 973-564-9236. AGCY.

15WWD, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2006

DALLAS — Bliss is on a roll. The New York spa and skin care com-pany is expanding with new spas, new products, a growing mail-order and e-commerce business at blissworld.com and distribu-tion through other retailers.

Bliss products also are avail-able at over 450 retailers includ-ing Bloomingdale’s, Harrods, Harvey Nichols, Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Selfridges and Sephora.

In partnership with W Hotels, Bliss in June opened a 5,107-square-foot spa at the new W Hotel at Dallas’s new Victory Center, the lifestyle shopping, retail and residential center near downtown here.

The spa includes nine treat-ment rooms for women and men and a wide range of beauty services, including the already popular triple oxygen treatment, ginger rub, hangover herbie and carrot-and-sesame body buff, as well as Fat Girl Slim Anti-Cellulite cream and a lemon face-and-body bar.

With the new unit here, Bliss now operates eight spas, including three in New York (in SoHo, on 57th Street and on 49th Street) and ones in San Francisco, Chicago, Los Angeles and London.

“Bliss will grow at least 40 percent overall in 2006. The brand continues to resonate with consumers across all chan-nels,” said Richard Dantas, president of Blissworld LLC, a subsidiary of Starwood Hotels and Resorts, which owns the W chain, among other hotels. “Our new Dallas spa is already gener-ating almost as much business as our well-established spa in Los Angeles. The response has been awesome. Business is good

across the chain.”Bliss, in business 10 years, plans

to open a spa in Scottsdale, Ariz., before year’s end at the new W Hotel there and another in Istanbul by year-end 2008. An international push into Hong Kong and across Asia is tentatively on the sched-ule in the next few years.

There are close to 80 skin care and treatment products in the collection and more are scheduled to be launched before the end of the year.

New products to be launched this fall and holiday include Bliss Steep Clean Self-Heating Body Polish, a buff-style polisher that is infused with pineapple enzymes and beeswax beads, among other ingredients, at $42; Triple Oxygen Instant Energizing Mask, which includes vitamin C, at $65; Spaahh-Kling Body Butter, at $32; Best of Bliss, a six-item collection of popular

soaps, scrubs and body butters, at $45; Lemon and Sage Scrubs Deluxe, at $47; Mistle-Toes, a pedicure set, at $40; Foam for the Holidays, a six-pack of bath and skin care products, at $25; Jingle Bell Socks, a moisture gel-pad-ded, foot-softening sock, at $48, and Two Turtle Gloves, self-acti-vating grapeseed and ceramide gel-lined moisture gloves, at $48.

“We continually and rigor-ously look at our portfolio to see how best we can grow the Bliss brand.” said Dantas.

— Rusty Williamson

The Bliss of Expansion

BEAUTY BEAT

Obituary WWD.COM

NEW YORK — Robert W. Bloch, a public rela-tions and marketing executive who began his own fi rm, Robert W. Bloch International, in 1956, died Saturday at age 78.

The cause of death was liposarcoma, a rare form of cancer, according to a spokeswoman for the family.

Over the years, Bloch had developed cam-paigns for European department stores, including Harrods, Selfridges and Galeries Lafayette. He is credited with launching the fi rst toll-free telephone number for international shoppers, which let American shoppers order cashmere products dur-ing the annual January sale at Harrods in London. And he was instrumental in bringing Galeries Lafayette to Manhattan in September 1991.

Over the years, Bloch’s American clients in-cluded AT&T and Deloitte & Touche, and he was also a press liaison for Temple Emanu-El, the

world’s largest Jewish house of worship. His fi rm was developed on the premise that a small p.r. company could represent large clients and he was a strong believer in one-on-one client contact. One of his favorite phrases was, “One gains self-confi -dence by doing it alone.”

During the early days of his career, Bloch worked as a reporter-producer for TV. In this ca-pacity, he was part of the fi rst-ever American cam-era crew to cover the fashion collections in Paris during the spring of 1953.

Bloch also assisted the royal families of Great Britain and Denmark, the spokeswoman said. He often was called upon for media matters when members of those royal families visited the U.S.

He is survived by his wife, Deborah, and daughter, Alexandra. A funeral service will be held Wednesday at the Frank E. Campbell Funeral Chapel here.

Nike Inc. has created five new vice presi-dents’ positions — three in Asia-Pacific, one

in Europe and one in global sports marketing.As the Beaverton, Ore., athletic giant ex-

pands its international presence, particularly in Asia, this moves refl ects its commitment to develop leadership talent worldwide, the com-pany said.

In the Asia-Pacifi c Region, where Nike gen-erated double-digit sales growth in the fi rst quarter of fi scal 2007, Nike promoted three longtime employees to vice president: Willem Haitink, vice president and general manager for Nike China; Jim Godbout, vice president and general manager for Nike Japan, and Davide Grasso, vice president for Asia-Pacifi c marketing. All three will report to Roland Wolfram, vice president of the Asia-Pacifi c region.

Haitink, general manager for Nike China and Hong Kong for the last year, has been at Nike for 12 years and has had management experi-ence in each of Nike’s regions. Godbout also has racked a dozen years at the athletic giant, where he has been general manager of Nike Japan for the last year. With 11 years at the fi rm, Grasso has been working as Asia-Pacifi c direc-tor of marketing since 2004.

As Nike’s fastest-growing market, China leads the Asia-Pacifi c region’s growth with sales that doubled in the past two years to more than $600 million. In the next two years, Nike expects its revenues from China alone will surpass the $1 billion mark, positioning China as the num-ber-two country in which Nike does business. The U.S. is number one.

In global sports marketing, John Slusher has been named vice president of sports marketing for both Asia-Pacifi c and the Americas. Slusher will report to global sports marketing vice presi-dent Adam Helfant. Slusher joined Nike in 1998 and has had posts in the global sports market-ing group, including manager of business affairs and associate director.

In the Europe, Middle East and Africa re-gions, DeeDee Wilson has been named vice president of fi nance and chief fi nancial offi cer. A certifi ed public accountant and internal audi-tor who joined Nike in 1995, Wilson has been chief fi nancial offi cer for the region and suc-ceeds Jim Allaker, recently appointed general manager for the United Kingdom, in leading the strategic planning and other functions. Wilson reports to Eunan McLaughlin, the region’s vice president and general manager.

— Whitney Beckett

Nike Adds Five V.P. Positions

P.R. Exec, Robert W. Bloch, 78

The reception area at Bliss’ new Dallas location.

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