Ipushed open the heavy, wooden door and immedi-ately recognised the cracked marble staircase, thecrumbling ornate pillars, and the fading homageto Fidel painted on the wall. In 1994, this tene-ment building in central Havana was turned into a

film set for TomásGutiérrez

Alea’s internationally-acclaimed, Fresa y Chocolate(Strawberry and Chocolate), a picture I studied almosta decade later at university.

Three flights up a dark staircase hides La Guarida –the den or hideaway – where much of the movie wasfilmed. It was home to a gay man called Diego, one ofthe main characters. His apartment was an Aladdin’sCave of illicit art, literature and trinkets, all prohibited bythe regime.

The film was so successful that tourists arrived in

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Viva the new

revolutionCuba is embracing the post-Fidel era with investment in the tourist sector continuing apace, yet itremains largely steadfast to its revolutionary principles. Martin Ferguson finds out why thisunique land of paradoxes continues to entice

off the beaten track � cuba

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off the beaten track � cuba

their droves searching for this clandestine paradise. Thereal owner, Enrique Nuñez del Valle, saw an opportunity.Using the original props as decor, he opened a paladar –a dining experience unique to Cuba, where families openprivate restaurants in their own front rooms – namedafter the movie (www.laguarida.com). I’d spent somuch time analysing the iconography and symbolism ofLa Guarida, it was truly surreal to be sitting in the verysame apartment gorging on the best food Cuba had tooffer. But then again, walking through the streets ofHavana you could be forgiven for thinking you were onthe world’s largest film set.

That said, the notion that Cuba is locked in a timewarp is becoming somewhat outdated. Since El Coman-dante, Fidel Castro, transferred power to his brother Raulin 2006, there has been modest socio-economicprogress. Cubans, for example, can now own computersand mobile phones. Access is restricted, but there hasbeen enough online liberty to fuel a cultural upheaval.Cubans can now also stay in hotels that were once theprivate enclaves of foreign guests.

old cadillacsBut thankfully for tourists, there are more thanenough superficial oddities. One can still marvel atthe clapped-out Pontiacs, Buicks, Fords andCadillacs that chug their way noisilythrough the pot-hole ridden streets (you

can usually book a classic car journey at your hotelreception).

It’s a similar story in relation to housing. While muchis invested in constructing and restoring hotels, most ofthe grandiose baroque and neo-colonial buildings aredilapidated and, often, literally falling down.

I was treated to a fairly standard itinerary during arecent visit: Revolution Square, the Havana Club rummuseum, La Habana Vieja (Old Havana) and ErnestHemingway’s favourite watering hole, El Floridita. Theseshould be on every visitor’s “to do” list.

You don’t have to look too hard, however, to findsomething off the beaten track. For starters, forego thelure of the luxury hotels, and bunk up with a Cubanfamily for a few days. The casa particular is a similarconcept to that of the paladar. It provides the tourist withan authentic Cuban experience, and allows some nativesto live above the breadline. Expect to pay between£5 and £80 per night.

Cigar smoking is as synonymous with Cubanculture as salsa, and tobacco plantations andfactories are littered across the country. Butthe guided tour at the Partagas factory incentral Havana should not be missed,unless you suffer from a respiratoryillness.

You’ll need to clear your lungs witha blast of fresh air, so walk directly to

“Walkingthrough thestreets ofHavana youcould beforgiven forthinking youwere on theworld’s largestfilm set”

cuba tips� Native Cubans use

the Cuban peso, buttourists must use theconvertible peso(CUC or CUC$)which is valuedagainst the dollar. Donot try and exchangemoney outside ofyour hotel or theairport. Dollars aresometimes accepted,but it is notconsidered officialcurrency.

� Cuba has extremelylow crime levels.Police constantlymonitor locals intourist areas.However, there are anumber of beggars,especially in Havana.Keep valuables inyour hotel roomsafe.

� Toiletries and manymedicines are inshort supply, so youare advised to takeadequate supplies.

� There are manyquality arts and craftsmarkets across thecountry, but beware ofbuying rum and cigarsfrom anywhere otherthan official vendors,as you may be gettingdangerously-poorproducts.

� Catedral de la Habana inHavana old townCuba Tourist Board

the Malecón, the concrete promenade that stretches someeight miles along the sea front. In the morning, you’ll seeno more than a few amateur fishermen with homemaderods, but from late afternoon it becomes a hive of activityand a haven for people watching.

world heritage siteTo escape the humid bustle of Havana, go to the centralstation and catch the Hershey train – built in 1917 by thefamous American chocolate manufacturer to transportworkers from the capital to Matanzas. Then switch linesand move on to Santa Clara, 270km east of the capital.

What this city lacks in architectural beauty it makes

up for in history, culture and lively nightlife. It was alsothe site of one of the most significant moments in Cubanhistory – the battle of Santa Clara. In late 1958, CheGuevara and his guerilla army used a bulldozer to deraila train carrying supplies and reinforcements for Batista’sarmy. They went on to capture the city, and less than 12hours later Batista fled the country. A short walk fromthe main square is the site where the attack took place,and the bulldozer and fallen train carriages remainpreserved in the same spot. A mile out of town is theChe Guevara museum and mausoleum.

A two-hour drive south is the colonial outpost, Trinidadde Cuba. Its museums and beaches are a huge draw fortourists. In 1988, UNESCO made this architectural jewel aWorld Heritage Site. The highlight for most is a visit to theManaca-Iznaga tower, which commands stunning viewsover the coastline and the Valley of the Mills.

resortsCuba’s modern resorts tend to receive most governmentinvestment. The Cayos, especially Cayo Coco, are idealfor those looking for heat, good food and some peaceand quiet. My father-in-law visits once a year, andinsists it’s the best part of the island.

Further west along the northern coast is Varadero, thelargest and busiest of the resorts. It’s big, bustling, andnot to everyone’s taste. But it is best placed for those

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off the beaten track � cuba

music in havanaCubans walk as if they are dancing. Aroundevery corner you’ll see musicians in thestreet and hear the pulsating beat of salsaor son coming from every window.Unsurprisingly, the capital is awash withquality music and dance venues: � La Zorra y el Cuervo: On La Rampa,

close to the Havana Libre hotel, it isconsidered one of the best jazznightclubs in Havana. The entrance is ared British telephone box. Doors openat 9pm, music is played from 1130pmuntil 3am. The pay-at-the-door covercharge is usually 10 CUC.

� Casa de la Musica de CentroHabana: On Galiano Street, it is one ofthe largest dance venues in the city.There is usually a live afternoon showfrom 4pm till 11pm before it becomesan all-night disco after 1am. The covercharge depends on the quality of the act,but is generally 5-10 CUC.

� La Madriguera: On the corner ofSalvador Allende and Luaces, the hometo the Cuban union of writers andartists is a hotbed of musical and artisticinnovation. Entry costs 5 CUC. Openingtimes are 9am-7pm daily exceptThursday, when it is open until midnight.

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� Havana isawash withmusic and

dance venues

� The colonial outpostof Trinidad de Cuba

� Rumandpineapple

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off the beaten track � cuba

wanting to combine beach-time with day trips to thecities and countryside.

Pinar del Rio, on the west side of the island, is only afew hours drive away. Known as the garden of Cuba, itboasts some of the island’s most impressive landscapesand wildlife, including the country’s red, white and bluenational bird, the Tocororo. And, like much of rural andcoastal Cuba, there are scores of outdoor activities inwhich to indulge, including trekking, snorkelling andscuba diving. Just to the north lies the Viñales Valley andits impressive El Indio limestone caves.

Rumours that the US’s softening stance on Cuba willsoon lead to an invasion of tourists seem somewhatpremature. As recently as July, President Obama was

under Congressional pressure touphold existing laws.However, the paralysingembargo is sure tocome to an end soonerrather than later, open-

ing Cuba up to Americantourists. I recommendyou get there before itdoes.

cuba facts

At only 31, journalist Martin Ferguson has alreadyexperienced some of the world’s most fascinatingdestinations. But he regularly tells family and friends thatHavana is the one city they must see before they die.

when to goCuba enjoys 330 days of sunshine a year.The rainy season – which often bringsviolent storms and occasionallyhurricanes – runs from May to October.The dry season, therefore, is fromNovember to April.

getting thereThere are scheduled flights from LondonGatwick to Holguin and Havana with Cubana Airlines(www.cubana.cu) and Virgin Atlantic (www.virgin-atlantic.com).Air Europa (www.aireuropa.com) flies from Gatwick to Havana viaMadrid. Charter flights with Thomas Cook Airlines(www.thomascookairlines.com) and Thomson Airways(www.thomsonfly.com) go to Varadero, Cayo Coco, Santa Clara andHolguin.

getting aroundHire cars are available at airports.Drivers must be at least 21. Publictransport is safe, but often extremelybusy and unreliable. Taxis are a cheapand safe way to get around.

accommodationThe pick of Havana’s hotels include the

imposing, twin-towered Hotel Nacional(www.hotelnacionaldecuba.com) and the Hotel Saratoga (www.hotel-saratoga.com). While Hotel Playa Pesquero(www.hotelplayapesquerocuba.com) is the stand-out resort inHolguin, the Blau Hotel (www.blauhotels.com) in Varadero and TrypCayo Coco should also be considered. For casas particulars, visit TheCasa Particular organisation (www.casaparticularcuba.org).

tour operatorsSpecialists include Captivating Cuba(www.captivatingcuba.com), CubaDirect (www.cubadirect.co.uk),Havanatur (www.havanatur.com),Headwater (www.headwater.com)and Journey Latin America(www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk).Mainstream operators include Thomas Cook(www.thomascook.com), Thomson Holidays

(www.thomson.co.uk) and Virgin Holidays(www.virginholidays.com).

tourist informationCuba Tourist Board:www.travel2Cuba.co.uk

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� Varadero is Cuba’sbiggest resort

� BusyHavana

� Book a classiccar at your hotel

� Havana’sRevolution Square

� Horse ridingat Viñales

� Cigar factoriesare on thetourist circuit

� Background picture: Cayo Coco Cuba Tourist Board