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43PDX 092-103 Syrah Wines.indd 92 5/30/19 5:44 AM

written by MARGARETT WATERBURYNORTHWEST SYRAH

The Northwest’s cool climate, like that of Cristom Vineyards in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, creates a versatile and complex Syrah with spicy and floral notes. Cristom grows its Syrah on the lower slopes of the Estate Vineyards where daytime heat accumulation is high and nights are cold, allowing the Syrah to both ripen and retain its acidity.

A BIG DEALFrom the Applegate Valley in southern Oregon to eastern Washington’s Walla Walla

Valley, Syrah has long been a beloved variety for growers

seeking a full-bodied red grape that’s responsive to site

conditions and thrives in a range of climates.

RISING STAR


94 PortraitMagazine.com

Tom Gerrie is part of a growing cohort of Northwest winemakers en-

amored with this Rhône variety. From the Applegate Valley in southern

Oregon to eastern Washington’s Walla Walla Valley, Syrah has long been

a beloved variety for growers seeking a full-bodied red grape that’s respon-

sive to site conditions and thrives in a range of climates. Plantings in both

states continue to increase, and Northwest Syrahs are garnering national

attention.

Yet even as Northwest Syrah’s prominence has grown, it has remained an

underdog. If Cabernet Sauvignon is the king of red grapes and Pinot Noir

the queen, Syrah might be the youngest prince—rich, unpredictable, se-

ductive, and maybe even a little bit raunchy. He’s sometimes overlooked,

but shouldn’t be underestimated. Here’s what to know about this delicious-

ly dark side of Oregon and Washington wine.

SYRAH’S GLOBAL CONTEXT

Although the variety is now grown all over the world, France’s Rhône valley

is Syrah’s most famous home. Yet even there, the grape is something of a

chameleon. In northern Rhône regions like Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage it’s

used to produce intense, powerful wines with a savory quality that often

verges on gaminess. In other regions, it produces a lushly fruity table wine,

and is often blended with other grapes like Grenache and Mourvédre to

add weight to a final blend.

Outside of France, the new world has enthusiastically embraced Syrah (or

Shiraz, as it’s known in Australia). In California, Chile, Argentina, Australia,

and South Africa, Syrah often produces big, robust, inky wines with flavors

of blackberry, spice, chocolate, and even coffee. Here in the Northwest, a

varied topography and a creative winemaking spirit gives Syrah full rein to

explore every facet of its character, from textured fruit and spice to savory,

smoky wines that mirror the finest expressions of the northern Rhône.

SOUTHERN OREGON

Versatile Southern Oregon is home to several Syrah producers of note,

including Cowhorn Vineyard www.cowhornwine.com Plaisance Ranch

www.plaisanceranch.com Troon www.troonvineyard.com Reustle Prayer

Rock Vineyards www.reustlevineyards.com and Quady North www.quady-

north.com which was founded specifically to focus on Rhone varieties.

As a young winemaker, founder Herb Quady despaired at ever being able to

afford the multi-million-dollar investment required to start his own win-

ery in California. But when he arrived in Southern Oregon in 2003 and

started working at Troon in the Applegate Valley, he saw an opportunity.

“I really like Rhône varieties, and I thought the Applegate could be a

great place to get in, if not on the ground floor, near the ground floor,”

says Herb. He and his wife bought their property in 2005, a hundred-acre

parcel that had once been a motocross track. In 2006, they planted their

first section to Syrah, Cabernet Franc, and Viogner, naming it Mae’s Vine-

yard after their daughter.

“Like Pinot Noir, Syrah is really good at showing a sense of place,” says

Herb. “But unlike Pinot Noir, it can grow in a wide range of climates. In

climates like ours, which are on the cooler edge for Syrah, it develops these

neat savory characteristics that make it conversational and can pair very

well with food.”

Four hours north in Portland, Oregon, Kate Norris at Southeast Wine Col-

lective www.sewinecollective.com is celebrating the 2019 release of her 2016

Gamine Syrah, made with fruit grown by Herb at that original vineyard he

planted in 2006. “I’ve always been obsessed with Syrah,” says Kate.

So in 2013, her business partner Tom bought her a ton of Syrah from Mae’s

Vineyard as a surprise. The resulting wine was savory, mineral-driven, and

distinctly old-world, right in line with Kate’s sensibilities. She’s bought

fruit from Herb every vintage since. “This 2016 vintage is the best I’ve ever

made,” says Kate. “It has so many layers, and an interesting delicate nature.

I’m really happy with it.”

WALLA WALLA

In the Walla Walla Valley and elsewhere in Washington, Syrah is a big deal.

In 2018, it was the third most important red grape in Washington’s vintage,

with 24,300 tons harvested. For context, Oregon’s 2017 Syrah harvest was

just shy of 3,000 tons.

Syrah loves the hot summer temperatures throughout Washington, but it’s

The Rocks District AVA where it makes its most remarkable wines. Just

south of Walla Walla, this tiny 3,767 acre sub-AVA only achieved official

recognition in 2015, but it’s quickly emerged as one of the most promising

regions for Syrah not just in the Northwest, but the world. Straddling the

Oregon and Washington border, The Rocks District is distinguished by a

deep bed of extremely rocky, gravelly soil created by millennia of erosion by

the Walla Walla river as it changed course across southeastern Washington

and northeastern Oregon.

Here, Syrah takes on an unmistakably savory, saline, almost meaty quality

that reminds many of the finest expressions of Syrah from Hermitage in the

northern Rhône. “Sometimes when I walk by a fermenter of Rocks District

Syrah, it smells just like a delicatessen,” says Rich Funk, owner and wine-

maker at Saviah Cellars www.saviahcellars.com in Walla Walla, Washington.

“Smoked sea salt, cured and smoked meats, tapenade, it’s all there.”

Those qualities are most evident in Saviah Cellars’ The Stone Speak Syrah,

a single vineyard bottling from the Funk Estate vineyard in the Rocks

District. In the tasting room, it stops people in their tracks. “You can

THE EOLA-AMITY HILLS ARE INARGUABLY PINOT COUNTRY. YET SPEND A LITTLE TIME WITH CRISTOM VINEYARDS WINEMAKER TOM GERRIE, AND YOU’LL QUICKLY LEARN THAT PINOT ISN’T THE ONLY RED GRAPE IN TOWN.

“Look, I bleed Pinot Noir,” laughs Tom. “But my second favorite? It’s Syrah.”


PortraitMagazine.com 95

CLOCKWISE Charles Smith’s popular Jet City tasting room in Seattle showcases how much the company has grown since his first K Vintner Syrah release in 2001. Associate Winemaker Wade Smith with Gloria and Stephen Reustle of Reustle Prayer Rock Vine-yards. Sarah Hedges Goedhart, Head Winemaker at Hedges Family Estate. Richard Funk, owner of Saviah Cellars in The Rocks District AVA. Owen Roe sources its grapes from both Yakima Valley, Washington and Willamette Valley, Oregon.



àMAURICE2014 Estate Syrah “Fred” $45This family-owned estate producer in the Walla Walla Valley was the first registered sustainable winery in the state, and is known for its light-handed, elegant, food-friendly wines. Partner and Winemaker Anna Schafer is a rising star, one of the youngest ever named Top New Winemaker by Seattle Magazine. Look for bright red fruit and vibrant floral toneswww.amaurice.com

CRISTOM VINEYARDS 2016 Estate Syrah $50Nominated for Best Oregon Winery by The Wine Advocate in 2017, Cristom Vineyards has been making an estate Syrah since 2003, it is produced entirely with Willamette Valley fruit. The 2016 vintage was co-fermented with about 4% estate-grown Viogner, a traditional move that helps lift and lighten the naturally spicy aromatics of Syrah. www.cristomvineyards.com

OREGON SYRAH PICKS

QUADY NORTH 2014 Flagship Syrah $65Cult-favorite Quady North describes its philosophy as “pan-Rhônish,” with a focus on minimally handled, cool-climate wines. The Flagship Syrah spotlights Mae’s Vineyard, a LIVE-certified south-facing hillside vineyard named after the founders’ eldest daughter. This age-worthy wine is only made during excep-tional vintages, and has a dense, concentrated character. www.quadynorth.com

COWHORN VINEYARD2014 Syrah 8 $45This boutique biodynamic winery in the Applegate Valley is known for a concentrated, inky-dark, blue-fruited Syrah with layers of earth and spice. Taking a cue from France, the Syrah 8 is co-fermented with a touch of Viogner, giving it an aromatic finish and rounded mouthfeel. Vinous called Cowhorn “the quality leader” for Oregon Syrah. www.cowhornwine.com

REUSTLE PRAYER ROCK 2016 Syrah Reserve $42Named Northwest Winery of the Year in 2017 by Wine Press Northwest, Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards grows Syrah along with about a dozen other grape varieties in the Umpqua Valley. Winemak-er Stephen Reustle strives for balanced, low-alcohol, food-friendly wines. Their 2016 Syrah Reserve was recognized with a gold medal at the San Francisco Chronicle competition, among other awards. www.reustlevineyards.com

DIVISION WINE CO. 2016 Gamine Syrah $36Division Wine Co. co-founder Kate Norris’ personal label Gamine is all about high-acid, food-friendly wines in an old-world style. Made from Applegate Valley fruit from Quady North’s Mae’s Vineyard, the 2016 Gamine Syrah is simultaneously lush and transparent, with fig skin, spice, and a refreshing touch of acidity. www.divisionwineco.com

TROON VINEYARD 2016 Côtes du Kubli G.S.M. $30One of the pioneers of the Apple-gate Valley, Troon Vineyard is in the midst of a transition to biodynamic winegrowing. Here, old-school wine-making techniques like foot treading and manual punch-downs are still in use. This blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvédre gets its name from the Kubli bench above the Applegate River where Troon’s vineyards are located.www.troonvineyard.com

HEDGES FAMILY ESTATE 2016 Decendants Liégeois Dupont-Syrah $40Hedges Family Estate founders Tom Hedges and Anne-Marie Liégeois planted their first vineyard in the Red Mountain AVA in 1989. In 2008, they made the leap to biodynamic. Decendants Liégeois Dupont-Syrah is made from grapes grown at Les Gosses Vineyard, and spent 19 months in a mix of new and used American and French oak.www.hedgesfamilyestate.com

OWEN ROEEx Umbris Syrah $21Made from grapes grown in the Yakima, Columbia, and Walla Walla valleys, Owen Roe’s Ex Umbris Syrah commemorates the 2002 vintage, when a wildfire near the vineyard interfered with the grape’s ripening and produced a particularly unusual wine. A short stay in neutral French oak barrels keeps the focus on the fruit. www.owenroe.com

K VINTNERS 2016 Motor City Kitty Syrah $35Named winemaker of the year by both Food and Wine and Wine Enthusiast, it seems Charles Smith made the right choice when he traded a career managing rock and roll bands for one making wine. K Vintners was his first winery, and when it opened in 2001, its very first release was a Syrah, showing just how important this variety is to Smith. www.winesofsubstance.com

SAVIAH CELLARS 2016 The Stones Speak Syrah $55Founded in 2000, Saviah Cellars was named one of the top 100 win-eries by Wine and Spirits Magazine. Rich Funk loves the meaty, smoky, savory quality of Syrah grown in The Rocks District, a new cross-border sub-AVA in the Walla Walla AVA. The Stones Speak is a single estate wine from the Funk Estate Vineyard. www.saviahcellars.com

WASHINGTON SYRAH PICKS

LONG SHADOWS 2016 Sequel Syrah $60Founded by Washington State wine luminary Allen Shoup, Long Shad-ows brings the top winemakers from around the world to Washington to work with their favorite grapes. Se-quel Syrah was made in partnership with John Duval, the former chief winemaker at Penfolds Grange, producers of Australia’s top Shiraz. www.longshadows.com

43PDX 092-103 Syrah Wines.indd 96 5/30/19 5:45 AM 43PDX 092-103 Syrah Wines.indd 97 5/30/19 5:45 AM

almost see them stop and think, ‘What’s going on here?’” laughs Rich. “That

was the first impression when I tasted a Rocks Syrah. I had never smelled

a wine like this.”

“These wines are singular,” says Rich. “I’ve worked with 30 blocks of Syrah

from around the state, and we can’t get these textures, aromas, and flavors

anywhere else. Really, there’s only so many places in the world you can grow

this style of Syrah and have it consistently, year in and year out, be excep-

tional in quality.”

THE WILLAMETTE VALLEY

Syrah is usually associated with warmer regions than the Willamette Valley,

but Cristom Vineyards www.cristomvineyards.com in the Eola-Amity AVA

is enthusiastically exploring the outer reaches of Syrah’s cold tolerance.

“We are among the pioneering wineries in the Willamette Valley for Syrah,”

says Gerrie. After having success with Viogner, Cristom grafted a portion

of its Chardonnay to Syrah in 2001, and made their first vintage in 2003.

Gerrie says ripening Syrah in a climate as cool as the Willamette Valley can

be tricky, but careful clone selection (and a series of exceptionally warm

vintages) have helped overcome the challenge.

“We love growing Syrah in a Pinot Noir climate, because you get a lot of

the spice without jamminess or any kind of over-ripeness,” explains Gerrie.

“I think there is a real demand for cool climate Syrahs. They can be really

interesting, complex wines with very floral qualities and a balance between

fruit and spice.”

Cristom underscores that floral quality by co-fermenting approximately

4% Viogner with some of their Syrah bottlings, a traditional strategy in-

spired by France that brings out lifted floral aromas and helps the wine

retain a beautiful, brilliant color. “It’s almost an homage to the old Côte-

Rôtie styles,” says Gerrie. “It adds this floral white honeysuckle component

in addition to the classic spiciness of the syrah.”

AT THE TABLE

Syrah’s big fruit and herb flavors pair beautifully with meat, and its full

body can stand up to flavorful marinades and sauces. Lamb is a home-run

pairing, especially when grilled, but beef, pork, or even duck can also be

excellent companions to a glass of Syrah. Particularly savory specimens of

Syrah are great fun to pair with charcuterie like pate, salumi, or bresaola,

which echo its meaty, salty character.

“I like Syrah as a food pairing wine because it is so bold, and I like to

use a lot of bold flavors,” says Althea Grey Potter, chef at Oui! Wine Bar

and Restaurant at Southeast Wine Collective www.sewinecollective.com .

“It pairs really well with dishes that have a lot of spices, or even some heat.

I might do a harissa-spiced lamb with Syrah, and I like that neither the

wine nor the dish will eclipse the other.”

Northwest wine lovers won’t be turning their back on Pinot Noir or Caber-

net Sauvignon anytime soon. But if winemakers like these have anything to

say about it, we’ll soon be making room for local Syrah in the cellar. “The

Northwest can also develop into a globally recognized region for Syrah,”

says Gerrie. “That might sound ridiculous to Pinot Noir lovers, but I really

believe that. There’s just so much opportunity for it here.”


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celebrating ten wonderful yearsthe allison wonderland

Celebrating a decade in Oregon wine country.

two-night staywith special events

august 30 & 31

participating wineries alexana winery • anne amie vineyards • antica terra • archery summit • bergström wines

brittan vineyards • cramoisi vineyard • cristom vineyards • domaine drouhin • natalie’s estate winery

native flora • ponzi vineyards • rain dance vineyards • rex hill • roco winery • soter vineyards

tresori vineyards • utopia vineyard • valley wine merchants • winderlea

Join us in celebrating our tenth anniversary to benefit the nonprofit charities of Classic Wines Auction. Cheers!

reserve nowcontact denise seroyer at [email protected] or call 503.476.0645 to learn more*

mention this ad at time of booking and receive a complimentary bottle of oregon sparkling wine

friday, august 30sparkling wine reception

wine dinner with author karen macneil— the wine bible and local vintners A dinner for the decade—JORY’s Executive Chef Chris Smith prepares a four-course wine pairing dinner that highlights local wines and marks our tenth anniversary serving Oregon Wine Country.

saturday, august 31tasting seminar with author karen macneil—the wine bible and local vintners

garden celebration Sample a variety of food, wine, beer, and spirits while enjoying the music of Concert Rock Violinist Aaron Meyer and the Dancehall Days Band.

tickets to individual saturday events are available for a limited time

the allison inn & spa | 2525 allison lane | newberg, or 97132 | theallison.com * Guests must be at least 21 years of age to stay or attend.

Wagyu Steak with Mushroom Tart

Recipe by Executive Chef Chris SmithJory Restaurant, The Allison Inn & Spawww.theallison.com

Photography by Aubrie LeGault

RECIPE on page 102

WINE PAIRING2015 Cristom – Syrah (Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, OR)


celebrating ten wonderful yearsthe allison wonderland

Celebrating a decade in Oregon wine country.

two-night staywith special events

august 30 & 31

participating wineries alexana winery • anne amie vineyards • antica terra • archery summit • bergström wines

brittan vineyards • cramoisi vineyard • cristom vineyards • domaine drouhin • natalie’s estate winery

native flora • ponzi vineyards • rain dance vineyards • rex hill • roco winery • soter vineyards

tresori vineyards • utopia vineyard • valley wine merchants • winderlea

Join us in celebrating our tenth anniversary to benefit the nonprofit charities of Classic Wines Auction. Cheers!

reserve nowcontact denise seroyer at [email protected] or call 503.476.0645 to learn more*

mention this ad at time of booking and receive a complimentary bottle of oregon sparkling wine

friday, august 30sparkling wine reception

wine dinner with author karen macneil— the wine bible and local vintners A dinner for the decade—JORY’s Executive Chef Chris Smith prepares a four-course wine pairing dinner that highlights local wines and marks our tenth anniversary serving Oregon Wine Country.

saturday, august 31tasting seminar with author karen macneil—the wine bible and local vintners

garden celebration Sample a variety of food, wine, beer, and spirits while enjoying the music of Concert Rock Violinist Aaron Meyer and the Dancehall Days Band.

tickets to individual saturday events are available for a limited time

the allison inn & spa | 2525 allison lane | newberg, or 97132 | theallison.com * Guests must be at least 21 years of age to stay or attend.



MUSHROOM TART

MethodHeat oil in a sauté pan over medium high heat. Add mushrooms and sauté until they begin to brown, if pan becomes dry add a little more oil to prevent mushrooms from burning. When mushrooms begin to brown add the shallots, garlic and herbs, sauté until aromatic and deglaze with cream sherry. Add Butter, and reduce sherry until almost dry. Season with salt and sherry vinegar to taste. Remove from heat and cool.

While mushrooms are cooling, preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Remove your puff pastry from the refrigerator and form shells. These can be any shape you desire, but the easiest method is to cut the dough in rectangles or squares and run a knife about 3/8 of an inch in from the edge to form two” L” shapes that don’t quite connect at two corners. Invert the thin strips so that you form a smaller rectangle with raised sides and “knots at 2 corners where the dough overlaps. This will minimize the amount of wasted dough that you have.Place shell forms on a parchment paper lined baking sheet and brush with beaten egg. Bake for about 15 minutes at 350 degrees. Remove and let cool.Fill with cooked and cooled mushrooms and bake until warm when ready to eat.

BEEF BUTTER3 Tbsp rendered beef fat (should be able to source from an artisan butcher)3 Tbsp butterSea salt1 tsp minced garlic

MethodCombine everything and beat together.

SYRAH-HUCKLEBERRY JUS2 cups Syrah4 cups beef bone broth or stock2 Tbsp huckleberries2 tsp butter Salt and pepper to tasteMethodReduce Syrah to ½ cup.Add beef broth and further reduce to ½ cup, add huckleberries.Season to taste. And finish by whisking in butter.

STEAK WITH MUSHROOM TARTSeason your steaks with salt and black pepper.We recommend a fattier steak such as ribeye or a Wagyu style striploin to pair with Syrah as the fattiness will help mellow out the tannins and create a more harmonious flavor pairing.

On a hot wood or charcoal grill or well-seasoned cast iron pan, sear the steaks and cook to desired doneness. Remove from heat and coat with beef butter.Allow to rest for 5-7 minutes before slicing.While steaks are resting, finish cooking your mushroom tarts In a preheated oven at 375 degrees.Slice steaks and plate with tarts. Finish by drizzling the Syrah jus over the steaks.

Wagyu Steak with Mushroom Tartrecipe by Executive Chef Chris Smith, Jory Restaurant, The Allison Inn & Spa

Beet Steakrecipe by Executive Chef Chris Smith Jory Restaurant, The Allison Inn & Spa

1 sheet puff pastry dough3 cups mushrooms, preferably a wild mix, chopped1 shallot, minced2 cloves garlic, minced1 tsp fresh thyme, minced½ tsp fresh sage, minced

¼ cup cream sherry1 Tbsp butterSalt to tasteSherry vinegar to taste1 egg, beatenCooking oil

INGREDIENTS3 large beets, washed2 cups orange juice2 cups white wine1 shallot, sliced4 cloves garlic1 bunch thyme1 Tbsp black peppercorns1 tsp saltWater to cover

MethodIn a deep baking dish combine all ingredients, cover with parch-ment paper and aluminum foil and bake in oven for about 2 hours at 375 degrees, or until the tip of a knife can be inserted easily. Remove beets from cooking liquid, strain and reserve. Partially cool beets, when easy to handle remove the skin by rubbing it off with a towel. Finish cooling the beets. Slice beets crosswise into 1.5 inch planks. (You should yield about 2 planks per beet)

BEET-PEPPERCORN SAUCEReserved beet braising liquid – reduced to 1.5 cups2 cups Syrah1 Tbsp green pepper corns1 Tbsp Butter (optional)

In a small pot combine Syrah and peppercorns, reduce to about ¼ cup, add reduced braising liquid and further reduce by half. Finish by whisking in butter if desired. Season with salt to taste and black pepper to taste.

Serving suggestions: Serve beet steaks with mashed or roasted potatoes and your favorite vegetables!

Executive Chef Chris Smith, Jory Restaurant, The Allison Inn & Spa


PortraitMagazine.com 103

Beet Steak

Recipe by Executive Chef Chris SmithJory Restaurant, The Allison Inn & Spawww.theallison.com

Photography by Aubrie LeGault

RECIPE on page 102

WINE PAIRING2014 Big Table Farm – Syrah (Rogue Valley, Southern Oregon)


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