Odyssey Timing Belt Replace

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instructions on how to replace the timing belt on the Honda Odyssey v6.

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    Odyssey Timing Belt Replacement

    Parts list:

    timing belt - ~ $25

    water pump (optional but recommended. The water pump is driven by the timing belt so water pump failure

    means getting to the timing belt again. Hardly worth the $80 you save by skipping this step now.)

    power steering belt

    alternator serpentine belt

    idler pulley optional but it needs to last another 100k miles ~ $22

    tensioner pulley again optional ~ $40

    dipstick tube o-ring - you will have to get this at the dealer. This is for the lower end of the dipstick tube whereit goes into the engine.

    cam seals and crank seal optional, I actually bought them but did not install them. It required a small amountof additional disassembly and I didn't have the proper seal drivers so I let it go. Hopefully not a bad move.Everything was dry upon disassembly. ~ $5 each

    All part prices are from an online parts discounter.

    Materials needed:

    Clear grease such as vaseline or vacuum grease

    Glue for rubber such as Gorilla glue or Emblem Cement

    Tools needed:

    Honda Factory Service Manual - optional, these instructions should be complete enough to do the timing beltchange ~ $89 used (www.faxonbooks.com)

    50mm crank locking tool available on Ebay for about $25

    Special Auto-tensioner tool only needed for 1999 models according to the Honda factory manual. Availablefrom your Honda dealer for about $9 (PN: 1450-P8A-A01) Do yourself a favor and buy it. For 2000+ you justneed a steel pin 1.5mm in diameter and a couple inches long (nail?).

    19mm deep well impact socket (even if you don't use an impact gun, enough torque is applied that it will likelysplit a regular socket.

    10, 12, 14 and 17mm 3/8" drive standard and deep well sockets

    3/8" drive extensions of varying length

    torque wrench good for 181 lb-ft

    The particular vehicle for this change was a 1999. This guide can be used for the 1999-2004 Odysseys with afew minor differences.

    The "patient". 1999 HondaOdyssey with 113,500 miles.

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    The first thing to do is position your Ody so that you have clear access to the right hand front wheel well. This

    is where you will be doing most of your work. Remove the spark plugs. This will allow you to turn the engineover with a socket on the crank bolt.

    Jack the Ody up and put the front end on jack stands.

    Take off the right front wheel.

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    Remove the plastic splash pan under the front of the van. You may want to remove the left front wheel toaccomplish this as there is a plug holding the pan in each one of the wheel wells.

    The van is shown here with the splash pan off.

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    Unhook the negative battery terminal. This will reduce the possibility of turning the engine and electrical shock.

    Rotate the engine with a 19mm socket on the balancer bolt until the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley andthe engine align.

    INSERT SCANNED PICTURE HERE.

    Remove the alternator serpentine belt. There is a special tool to release the belt tensioner but it has beenreported that it is no longer available. Just use a 14mm box end wrench (it must be offset as most combination

    wrenches are).

    Place the box end on the tensioner pulley bolt. Then get another wrench of slightly larger size and hook themtogether as shown. This will give you plenty of leverage to release the tension and pull the belt off. Be careful,there is a lot of tension here and you could be injured if you get your fingers in the wrong place.

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    Loosen the adjusting nut on the power steering pump and remove the belt. The belt will be off the pulley butwill have to stay in front of the engine until the next step.

    Support the engine with a jack and wood block or soft pad on the oil pan.

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    Remove the side engine mount bracket. There are two bolts on the engine side and a through bolt on theengine mount side. Now you can actually remove the power steering belt from the area.

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    While it is not in the Service Manual, you may find it easier to work if you remove the engine mount from the body. It is

    quickly done by removing the three bolts.

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    Next, remove the dipstick tube. There is a bolt holding the tube in place about half way down. Use a 10mm socket to

    remove it.

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    Remove the crank pulley bolt. Use the special tool to hold the pulley in place. Use a 1/2" breaker bar and adeep well 19mm impact socket to loosen the bolt. A cheater pipe may be necessary. A ratchet and standard

    socket are shown as a tool to turn the engine to align timing marks. Be sure to use a breaker bar to loosen thebolt though.

    For some unexplained reason I forgot to get a photo of the crank holding tool in place!?!? If you have the toolyou it is rather self explanitory though.

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    Next remove the top left and right timing covers. Then remove the lower timing cover. There are 5 bolts ineach top cover and 7 bolts in the bottom cover. See picture (two down) to see locations.

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    Take some time at this point to clean the covers. The rubber seals in the covers may be loose. Remove theseals entirely. Clean the seal grooves out in the cover and clean the glue off the rubber. After you have the

    covers clean and dry (be sure to dry out the seal grooves), glue the seals back in place. This will give the gluea chance to dry before you need to reinstall the covers.

    If you decide to do the water pump, now is the time...

    First drain the cooling system from the radiator. The petcock is on the lower rear driver side of the radiator.

    Here is the water pump. Remove the adjustable idler and the bolts all around the water pump.

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    Next, remove one of the battery hold down stems (no kidding, this is actually in the factory service manual).

    Next grind a blunt point on the tip.

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    Then use the stem to hold the timing belt tensioner in place. Below the tensioner (opposite of non adjustableidler) there is a boss threaded to accept the stem. Thread it in there by hand until it contacts the tensioner.

    Here you can see how the battery hold down contacts the tensioner pulley.

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    I removed the power steering pump from the engine to get it out of the way. According to the book this is notnecessary but I like to see what I am doing.

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    Remove the engine mount bracket from the engine. The bracket is shown here below the power steeringpump pulley (water pump is still installed in this photo). There is one vertical bolt and three horizontal bolts

    securing the bracket.

    Loosen the timing belt idler pulley 5 or 6 turns and remove the timing belt. It is just below and a bit to the rightof the water pump pulley in this photo.

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    Now is the time to change the water pump if you wish to (I reccommend it).

    I drained the cooling system at the radiator to minimize the clooant loss when I removed the water pump. Theradiator drain is on the lower left of the radiator. Get ready with a large container to attempt to catch most of

    the coolant.

    Now, remove the 5 bolts that hold on the water pump and...WHOOSH!

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    Get out the new water pump out. Take the new o-ring and coat it with Vaseline (save the jokes) or other whitegrease. This will help the seal stay in place during installation. Install the new pump and torque the bolts to

    105 in-lbs (8.7 ft-lbs). That's done.

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    Take a break, crack a cold one and reflect. The hard part is done...

    Clean your parts as you wish at this point. Be sure to wipe down the timing belt pul leys.

    Now, line the crank pulley up. NOTE: This should only take some minor movement of the crank. DO NOTROTATE THE CRANK EXCPET FOR MINOR ALIGNMENT! Doing so would make the pistons contact the

    valves - not good if pressure is applied!)

    Align the arrow on the crank pulley with the arrow on the case at the top, center. The marks are marked inyellow here.

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    Next, Align each of the cam pulleys on the heads with their timing marks. The photos show the cams with thebelt installed but your belt will not be on at this point.

    Be careful when aligning the cam pulleys - be careful, use a wrench or small breaker bar with a socket - DONOT USE A RATCHET! The cam pulleys will stay put when aligned with the marks. But, if the pulley is moved

    off the mark just a bit, the force on the cm lobes will cause the cam pulley to SPRING off center. This willallow the valves to hit the pistons (in some cylinders). This happened to me and there was no damage as far

    as I know but beware.

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    OK, now remove the battery hold down bolt from the auto-tensioner. Remove the tensioner and take it to abench vice. Be careful when handing the tensioner as to not let the oil run out of it. Put the tensioner in thevice, as shown, with the "maintenance bolt" up. Please note these directions address the 1999 model only.

    See model year 2000+ directions below.

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    Remove the maintenace bolt (this is when the oil can leak out. If the oil does leak out, fill it with 5W-30 motoroil). Insert a srew driver into the hole and turn the piston while pushing it down. Install the Honda holding tool

    (P/N 14540-P8A-A01)

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    Model Year 2000+ Tensioner Compression Instructions

    Align the holes of the tensioner piston and body rotationally. Put the tensioner in a hydraulic press and slowlycompress the tensioner until the holes align vertically. Install a 1.5mm pin to retain the tensioner in this

    position.

    I apoligize for the lack of photos in this section. Please refer to the above photos for reference.

    Install the tensioner with the retainer (holder or pin) in place.

    Install the timing belt in a counter-clockwise sequence. Take your time. Be sure all the timing marks stayaligned (crank and cam pulleys). This may take a few tries but you will get it.

    Install the idler pulley and tighten it in place. Torque bolt to 33 lb-ft.

    Now reinspect your timing marks. If they are not aligned, remove the idler pulley and redo your belt. Once youhave the timing belts aligned, I like to take an additional step to insure they are indeed correct.

    Slowly turn the crank two complete revolutions an realign the crank timing mark. If you hit hard resistance,stop, reverse the crank and re-check all your timing marks.

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    Once the crank timing mark is realigned after TWO crank revelutions, check that the cam timing marks arealigned. If at any time the marks do not realign, youwill have to adjust the timing belt position on the pulleys.Remember, while turnig the crank, every other rotation on the crank will realign the cam pulley timing marks.

    OK, now your belt is installed and check (and double checked).

    to be continued...

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