October 2013

Romantic Dining

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As visitor numbers fall during October and November, those who prefer to visit during off-peak times are rewarded with low season specials and quieter venues. And often, the heavens will open up for only a short time, with skies clearing again as fast as they darkened. Of course, just because it’s raining, doesn’t mean it’s cold, so if you find a covered beachside restaurant, you can still enjoy the views and watch the rain while enjoying your meal.

Have you heard of razor clams? Neither had we, but you can find out more in this issue. You can also read about how fruit and vegetables are used in the island’s spa treatments, and discover how to enjoy that Thai staple dish – noodle soup. As usual, we’ve visited a few restaurants and bring you the best of what the island has to offer, food wise. In ‘Going Native’, we chow down with the locals at Krua Chao Baan, and learn a little about Indian cooking at the Noori India Cooking School.

So grab a drink, get comfortable and turn the page to find out more about Samui’s culinary scene, from the tempting signature dish at The Farmer, to The Palate, an exciting new venue in Lamai.

Happy reading and happy eating!

OctoberDelightsSamui has a lot to offer those who are prepared to gamble with the weather.

Noori India Restaurant - Chaweng CenterChaweng Beach Road, opp. Chaweng BuriNoori India Restaurant - Chaweng Southat Chaweng Cove ResortNoori India Cooking Center - Chaweng SouthSoi Colibri, opp. Centara Grand Beach Resort

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Ca t ch o f t h e D

What’s the connection between doughnuts, dimples and keyholes? Why do people walk along the waterline whacking the sand with shovels? And exactly what is spitting jets of water back at the whackers? When you see some guy face down and with one arm up to the shoulder in the wet sand, what’s he doing? And why does the State of Washington have special agents watching all these people? Well, if you didn’t have the title at the top to help you out, I’d be feeling pretty smug right now. But as it is you’ll get the answers soon enough!

Actually, the razor clam is one of the more tasty examples of what generally comes under the heading of seafood. Even so, it’s something of a speciality and not particularly popular or sought after, except by a narrow and enthusiastic fanatical fringe. Traditional local customs seem to have caused an international hotspot on America’s north-western coast. Here the clam craze hits a frenzy in the spring and summer vacation periods, with sometimes more than 1,000 ‘clammers’ concentrated along one mile of beach.

Unfortunately the same local traditions dictate that the clams should be caught by chasing after them with a shovel, which destroys ten times more than are caught. Hence the concerns about conserving the species in that part of the world.

The razor clam is really quite odd. For a start, it’s one of nature’s little quirks. It was seemingly first discovered by early settlers in America, in the 18th century (although no doubt the native population were well aware of it long before this). And by all accounts this was the only known place on earth it occurred – hence its zoological name, Ensis Americanus. But, somewhere in the early 1980s, it suddenly appeared along the coast of the Elbe Estuary in Germany. From there it spread rapidly to temperate coastlines across all of Europe. Initially its appearance came as a surprise, but biologists have deduced that ocean-going vessels are in the habit of taking on water as ballast and then jettisoning this later. And some of the larvae of the American razor clams must have decided to take a bit of a trip in this manner.

Because of its isolated evolution, it also contradicts both the shape and habits of the rest of the clam and mollusc family. Its other relatives are normally big, flat and roundish and tend to sit on the bottom of the sea or hang around on rocks. The razor clam is slim, flat and long (sometimes up to ten inches, although six or seven is more usual). It’s shaped very much like an old-fashioned cut-throat razor, hence its name. And it burrows itself vertically into the sand in shallow waters, coming half-way up and out of its hole to feed.

It does share two family traits however. The first is that its muscular structure holds the two halves of its shell together, causing them to open and close. And the other is its ‘foot’. This sticks out of the front and is used to both dig itself into the sand and also to anchor itself there. Over time this has developed into something quite substantial, and it’s amazing just how fast these clams can dig. In shallow tidal bays, when the sea recedes, there’s plentiful evidence of the presence of these clams. They leave a clear access hole,

either flat like a keyhole, slightly raised like a doughnut or concave, like a dimple. And this is where the fun begins.

American razor clammers traditionally opt for either the spade or the tube. The clams are sensitive to vibration and react by expelling a jet of water up through their burrow to shoo away predators. It may well give pause to some of the more timid crabs, but a big beefy clammer who’s thumping away at the wet sand with his shovel is in there like a shot. Wet sand is heavy, like thick moist cement. And the clams can actually burrow down faster and deeper than the clammers can dig. Which is why, in the race to dig the little fellows out, most of them are chopped into unusable chunks by clumsy spading. Hence the curious law that is firmly enforced by Washington State officials – you have to keep your first 15 clams, no matter how messed up they are.

However the less macho clammers have succumbed to the sophistication of the ‘tube’. Basically this is a state-of-the-art capped-off length

You’ve got to be pretty sharp if you want to catch a razor clam!

Ca t ch o f t h e D

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of plastic drainpipe, with one end open and with the capped end having a cork in it. Cork out, and rock and wiggle it downwards over the dimple/doughnut/whatever. Cork in, and wiggle it back up again, complete with tube of sand containing one annoyed razor clam. If no clam, then repeat. In a way one has to chuckle. Because all it actually takes is one small bottle of salt. Pour a little into the hole and wait for the clam to emerge rapidly, vertically, looking for all the world like a giant squeezed blackhead.

Razor clams are simplicity itself to prepare and cook. Pour boiling water over them until the shells pop open and then immediately transfer them to cold water so they don’t begin to toughen. Remove any parts (the digestive tract etc.) that are a dark colour, by simply using scissors. Grill or barbecue them in their shells until they just begin to brown. Add butter, a touch of pepper, and garlic or herbs to taste. And that’s it.

Unfortunately razor clams don’t do too well in tropical waters; it’s just too warm. So you won’t see any in the local markets. But you know how adventurous good chefs can be. And, if you hunt around a bit, you’re certain to find imported razor clams on the menu in one or two of the more up-market restaurants – but you’ll need to keep a razor-sharp eye out for them!

Rob De Wet

Day


Name one Thai dish. Quick! Go on – don’t think about it! It’s a certain bet that you either said tom yam or pad Thai. And this is rather odd, in a way. Last year a Reader’s Digest poll of its members placed pad Thai at the top of the list. But what’s odd is that the Thai people themselves don’t actually eat it that often, it’s more popular with tourists.

But the one thing that the Thai people do go for in a big way is noodle soup. You’ll see these little street stalls all over the place, particularly at night. One of the most startling things about Thailand (for the newcomer, anyway) is the way the street landscape suddenly changes after dark. Suddenly, on more or less any broad strip of pavement, outside banks or shops, a mobile kitchen arrives complete with plastic chairs and tables. It used to be a common sight to see whole families turn up on one motorbike to eat – freshly scrubbed and ready for bed in their nightclothes, adults included!

Of course, it’s not only at night that you’re able to tuck into noodle soup – there are many

permanent stalls, too. Guay tiao, as it’s called in the Thai language (say it ‘kway-tee-ow’, with the stress on the last syllable), is quite possibly one of the most healthy and nourishing meals you can fit in one bowl. And, with its meat stock and range of fresh vegetables, contains just about all the protein and vitamins (and many of the minerals, too) that the body needs.

Now and then, I come across visitors to Thailand who seem worried about the cleanliness or health aspects of eating street food. My reply is simple, particularly when it comes to noodle soup. Look for a stall that’s full of Thai people. Firstly, if it wasn’t impeccably clean, none of the Thai customers would want to eat there. And, second, if it’s busy it’s popular, and that means this place is particularly good value for money.

I have to confess that I went for years without realising just how many soup variations are available. Yes, the different types of noodles are obvious, as they are all on display. But not the actual soupy stuff, which I’ll get to in a minute. There’s basically a choice of five types of noodle

here. The yellow stringy ones that look a bit like spaghetti are popular. These are known as ba mee leuang, with the yellow colour coming from the use of egg. The broad, flat ones are sen yai and the smaller version, sen lek. The ones that are actually the very thin rice vermicelli are sen mee. Then there are the glass noodles made from mung beans, wun sen.

Most noodle stalls have a choice of meats, including pork, red pork, beef, chicken, chopped liver, and sometimes duck, fish or prawns. The soup stock is usually pork or chicken-based and flavoured with salt, pepper, garlic and coriander. The mix is enhanced by the addition of plentiful green vegetables, bean sprouts, morning glory, often meatballs or meat-stuffed wantons, and occasionally tofu. The basic, clear-coloured soup is known as nam sai, but this is only the start of the fun!

Take the basic guay tiao (noodle soup) nam sai (clear stock) and add chilli paste, chilli powder, crushed peanuts, lime juice, sugar and fish sauce, and you’ve got what amounts to tom yam

noodle soup! And that’s exactly what this is called – guay tiao tom yam. It’s sweeter (and spicier!) than the basic soup, and comes in pork, fish and seafood varieties, although not all stalls keep the last two sorts.

Another very popular variation is still known as guay tiao ruea. The word ruea means ‘boat’, and this is the same recipe that used to be sold by the floating soup sellers who toured around the canals of Bangkok. The special ingredient is the blood from pigs or cows, which is poured into the soup right before serving, giving the mix its distinctive taste. Available with pork, beef, meatballs or liver, it’s full of bean sprouts, morning glory and parsley, and quite delicious.

You’ll find that there are other varieties, particularly in Bangkok and in the north and northeast of Thailand. But these are the three most-common basic options. Although we’re not done yet! Sold separately and in bags you’ll see pork crackling (cap moo). Adding a handful varies the flavour and texture tremendously. Plus, on every table, you’ll have a little set of jars

with seasonings (known as puang krueang prung) – fish sauce, chilli powder, sugar, vinegar with sliced chillies. (Plus the chopsticks: this is one of the very few Thai dishes they are used with.) Finally, vegetarians can opt for any of the above minus the meat/fish, although the stock might still pose a problem.

Is it any wonder that this genre is so popular? It’s a simple enough thing, noodle soup. But with several variations plus a wide range of meat, fish and seafood, and also the facility to fine-tune the seasonings to your taste, it’s rare to see any two bowls the same at a busy soup stall – there’s just oodles of different noodles!

Rob De Wet

Oodles of NoodlesHow to navigate your way around one of Thailand’s most popular dishes – noodle soup!


Avoiding so-called ‘taboo dinner topics’ like sex, religion or politics, often we’ll turn to bucket lists or interesting hypothetical questions such as, “If you had to choose your last meal, what would it be?”

So we posed a hypothetical question to Chef Steven van Duyn, of Chef’s Table restaurant at Sareeraya Villas & Suites. The question was, “If you knew when your last meal would be, what would be on the menu, where would it be served, and who would join you at the table?” Most people would immediately list their favourite dish – we all have one, usually a comfort food of sorts, and of course we’d want our family and a close friend or two there. And then there’s the location that is our ‘happy place’, where the dinner would be served – all hypothetically speaking of course. The topic isn’t meant to be morbid, just to stir up an interesting conversation.

Well ask this of any chef, and they are often stumped. Sure, they want their family there, and they know their favourite place, but the ‘what will be served’ part is just too darn hard to narrow down. It goes without saying that chefs love food, and watching how they stress when they have to choose is quite amusing to watch. Well when Chef Steven finally decided, these were his answers:

“Firstly, my immediate family and celebrity chef, Gordon Ramsay, would join me.” (At least the conversation will be spicy…)

“The location would be Kelburn Lookout, overlooking Wellington Harbour in New Zealand.”

And now for the part that had him stumped for a while, “It would have to be a three-course meal. We’d start with truffle burrata cheese with sundried tomatoes, rocket leaves and sherry-caramel sauce. Wagyu rib-eye steak with a marbling score of seven to eight, served with porcini sauce. And to end my last meal, I’d like a chocolate degustation plate.” (Well, who doesn’t like a good chocolate pud?)

Now that your mouth’s watering, let’s find out a bit more about Chef Steven. He’s been in the industry for 20 years, having started in his home country of New Zealand, in 1984. But his love of cooking started long before that. In primary school form one and two, it was compulsory to take home economics as a subject, which involved learning to sew and cook. Steven soon discovered his love of food

and cooking, and continued with home economics through high school and college, and enjoyed cooking for family and friends at home.

After college, his first job in the kitchen was as commis chef for two years at the Western Park Tavern in Wellington, New Zealand. He moved on to be sous chef and apprentice for six years in the late 80s through to the early 90s at Pierre’s Restaurant, also in Wellington, learning the ropes and discovering new techniques in cooking.

The rest of the 90s were spent as executive sous chef at Boulcott Street Bistro, before he discovered our lovely island of Samui and moved here in November of 2000. Here he took on the position of executive chef and F&B manager at Beachcomber Hotel, where he stayed for a full seven years before being lured away by the bright lights of Bangkok. For two years, Steven worked as executive chef at the Dusit Princess Srinakarin. But soon, island life called him back to Samui.

From 2009 through to 2011, a post as corporate executive chef kept Steven busy between the group’s three restaurants at the Blue Lagoon Hotel, Beachcomber Hotel and Top Ten Restaurant & Bar. Drawn again to other things, he did a short stint at the Bitec Convention Centre in Bangkok before leaving the ‘Land of Smiles’ for the ‘Land of Sand’, and working for a year as executive chef at the Desert Palm Resort & Hotel in Dubai.

But Samui always seems to call Steven back, and it seems this time, he’s here to stay. He’s been executive chef at Sareeraya since November 2012, and he loves it there. And who wouldn’t? He only has to pop his head out of the kitchen to see the crystal water of the Gulf of Thailand lapping Chaweng’s soft, white sand. Add to that a dedicated team in the kitchen with a good attitude and eager to learn, and a well-equipped and set out kitchen, and you have any chef’s dream job. Of course, on days off, he has Samui as his playground to enjoy with his family.

Like most good chefs, Steven is constantly looking for inspiration, be it from other chefs, the internet, or books. He’s travelling back to New Zealand in a few months, and has already made plans to visit his favourite cookbook store – we know what his luggage allowance is being allocated to!

Steven doesn’t like to define his style too much, as he likes all types of food as well as enjoying both contemporary and classic cooking. He’s tweaked the menu at Chef’s Table since arriving in November, mostly when it comes to the style of serving. As Steven explains, “If it looks good, you’re 80% there.”

Chef’s Table offers elegant, yet relaxed beachside dining with both Thai and Western menu options. On Monday nights, guests can enjoy a Thai buffet and on Thursday nights there’s a buffet offering Western and Asian favourites, including Indian and Chinese dishes. Sareeraya is also a favourite location for weddings, and if you’re looking for a romantic experience for a special occasion, ask them to prepare you a private table on beach for the ultimate beachside dining experience.

Whether he’s coming up with contemporary or classic dishes for Chef’s Table, compiling menus for a wedding or just talking about food and cooking, it’s evident that Steven is passionate about food. And that’s what makes a great chef after all.

Rosanne Turner

For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7791 4333. www.sareeraya.com

Avoiding so-called ‘taboo dinner topics’ like l l f ll

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KitchenKing

This month the spotlight is on Steven van Duyn, Executive Chef at Sareeraya Villas & Suites.


1st – Zombies eat my flesh? This was the day, in 1968, that they first took the world by storm, when George Romero’s ‘Night of the Living Dead’ was first released.

2nd – Orange sheep? So annoyed was English farmer, John Heard, by sheep rustlers, that he painted his entire flock bright orange, it was reported on this day, back in 2011.

3rd – How about a wild turkey smacking into your windscreen and causing your huge tractor-trailer to (ahem!) dump its load? Not so bad if it’s whiskey. But a truckload of manure is different. This happened in 2009 to trucker Scott Fisher, near the Canadian border.

4th – Stand up straight now – if you can. Let’s hear a big ‘nas darovie’, as today it’s National Vodka Day in America.

5th – Ray Crok was born on this day, in 1902. He was the outgoing salesman who put the name of McDonald’s on the map, after having persuaded the conservative McDonald brothers to let him to sell franchises nationwide.

6th – Silly or what. On this day, in 2008, new legislation was passed in Ohio, which permitted male roosters to visit their female friends for only 10 days every month. It seems that noisy cocks had become just too much for the local populace.

7th – Wedded bliss. Alfred Town, New South Wales, this day in 1953. Coming out of the church, an excited guest pelted the bride in the face with rice. After she had whacked him with her parasol, a fight broke out which put three guests in hospital. Aussie rules?

8th – This was the day, in 1871, that the Great Fire of Chicago happened, destroying 17,000 buildings and leaving 100,000 people homeless. It was caused by Kate O’Leary’s cow kicking over an oil lamp whilst being milked. Cold hands?

9th – On Samui, the dampness of the rainy season can make everything mouldy; clothes, shoes, bags, the inside of cars – but there’s only one day in America when it’s National Mouldy Cheese Day– today!

10th – This is the day, in 1972, that the world’s oldest condoms were unearthed, in the grounds of Dudley Castle, England. Dating back to around 1640, they were made from sheep’s intestines.

11th – On a theme: this was the day, in 2009, that strap-on condoms first appeared on sale in America. Moving rapidly on . . .

12th – The first Oktoberfest occurred in Munich on this day, in 1810. Originally a horserace to celebrate the marriage of the Crown Prince of Bavaria, it’s now the world’s biggest beer festival, where a million gallons of beer are necked over a two-week period.

13th – Yum! Cockroaches! Gurnee, Illinois, staged its first Live Cockroach Eating Competition on this day in 2005. The winner, Ken Edwards from Derby, England, got through 36 Madagascar hissing cockroaches in just one minute.

14th – Great timing – today is National Chocolate Covered Insect Day in the USA.

15th – What happens when you sell cooking oil dead cheap? A supermarket in Chongqing, China,

did this on this day, in 2008, and in the ensuing chaos three women were trampled to death and more than a hundred badly injured.

16th – Three flavours of marijuana-laced ice cream went on sale in California, on this day just a year ago. Named ‘High Scream’ (groan), the dopey dessert was introduced at a medical marijuana dispensary in Santa Cruz as a (perfectly legal) alternative to smoking pot.

17th – This was the day, just a year ago, that an English woman was diagnosed with a dangerous reaction to sandwiches, which caused her heart to stop beating for two seconds or so. She said her last episode was when eating a sandwich while driving but, luckily, her car was stationary in a queue of traffic at the time.

18th – This was the day, in 1969, that the artificial sweetener, Cyclamate, was internationally banned after indications that it caused cancer in rats. After more research, however, this sweetener is now widely used in fizzy soda-style drinks.

19th – I feel quite sorry for those cockroach people in Gurnee. This was the day, in 2006, when their second Live Eating Cockroach Competition was brought to a standstill by hundreds of animal (insect?) rights protesters.

20th – Bella Lugosi was born on this day, in 1882. He came to later fame in his roles portraying sinister screen baddies, notably Dracula, who was known particularly to enjoy the odd pint or two now and again.

21st – It’s National Pumpkin Cheesecake Day in America but, far more sensibly, in England it’s

National Apple Day . . . how dull!

22nd – ‘Yummy Italia’ is the name of the pizza shop in Burnley, England, which opened on this day, in 2008, with a menu of zebra, buffalo, kangaroo and crocodile pizzas, thus causing outrage amongst members of animal rights movements, and vegetarians everywhere. (But no cockroaches.)

23rd – This was the day, in 1955, when the first domestic microwave cooker appeared. Made by the Tappan Stove Co., the cost back then was $1,300. In today’s prices, that’s an incredible $20,000!

24th – Royals – notably Price Harry, who is a ‘bit of a boy’. A couple of years back he had a wild weekend in Las Vegas, with ensuing internet photos of the naked Royal bum appearing widely. Just a year ago today this was immortalised by Sheldon’s Wines, which brought out a French rosé with a collector’s label and artwork: ‘Royal Blush’.

25th – If you really have to die, then you could do far worse than departing as a clown dressed as a giant peanut and being trodden on by an elephant. This was the spectacular passing of Chuckles the Clown, as televised live on the Mary Tyler Moore Show, on this evening, in 1975. (It’s still on YouTube!)

26th – The legendary hotelier, Cesar Ritz, died on this day, in 1918. As well as managing London’s Savoy Hotel, he also ran the London Carlton and established a chain of Ritz hotels in France in the late 1900s.27th – A Golden Oldie? The unforgettable ditty ‘Gorgonzola’ was released on this day, in 1930, by

Jack Hilton and his Orchestra, and sung cheesily by Leslie Sarong.

28th – New Zealand’s Frankie Dawson was hatched on this day, in 1934. He will be forever remembered as the singer that bestowed to the nation such dignified ditties as ‘I Hope Your Chooks Turn Into Emus’ and the memorable ‘Saturday BBQ Chorus’.

29th – It was on this day, in 2009, that the ‘Sausage Meat Stylus’ first appeared This effective product could not only be nibbled at, but was perfect for using with the finger-sensitive touch screen of the iPhone, particularly at low temperatures when wearing gloves!

30th – This was the day, in 1834, that James Arthur McElroy became the Official Poet of Australia’s Northern Territories. His salary was two sheep a month.

31st – Dunkin Donuts first came to Thailand on this day, in 1981. Since then the company has amassed a further 182 branches throughout the Kingdom. Dunk on baby!

Rob De Wet

10 2013 OctoberSun Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 1920 21 22 23 24 25 2627 28 29 30 31

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We highlight some of the morecurious events of the month of October.

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One of the things that foodies like to do is spread the news about new places to eat. But when you’re a food writer, then somehow it all becomes more solemn. It’s our professional duty to make our readers more aware. To encourage their gastronomic third eye to focus more intently on the island’s karma in general and, specifically, upon one or another of the desirable aspects of the Samui food scene. It can be tough sometimes, touring around and forcing ourselves to sample all this food. But one of the rewards is to point out to you, dear reader, yet another fab place to visit. This month’s trail wends upwards towards the lap of the gods, as we explore the attractions of the Santiburi Samui Country Club.

Santiburi Beach Resort, Golf & Spa, to give the place its full title, is one of our leading 5-star resorts. And more than a decade ago, the resort opened a tournament-standard 18-hole par 72 golf course, with driving range and putting green, in a prime elevated location up in the hills in Maenam. The golf course was originally known by a simpler epithet: Santiburi Golf. But somewhere down the line, it was renamed to how we know it today.

Sounds a bit grand, doesn’t it – Samui Country Club? Far be it for me to say that it isn’t really, but in the words of the Club Manager, Derek McKenzie, “This is a holiday island and the emphasis is on informality and enjoyment. There’s very little in the way of formal dress needed on the greens, and the same goes for eating here!” Yes, this might be Samui’s only championship-level golf course, but you can play in your trainers. Similarly, the ‘clubhouse’ is just as laid-back. It’s essentially just one huge room, Thai-style, and completely open on three of its sides. The décor is unassuming. But what will knock your socks off is the view. This is perched up much higher than the short drive from the ring-road suggests. And from up here you’re looking down on the seven-kilometre sweep of Maenam Bay in its entirety.

The first tip for you is that this is one of the most glorious places on the island for an early breakfast. Not surprisingly, all the activity here

hinges around the hours of daylight. So the restaurant opens at 6:00 am. Which means that the full splendour of the sunrise, over to the right, is available seven days a week, glowingly reflected on the surface of your fresh-ground coffee. Or fruit juice (big selection). Or smoothie or milk-shake. There’s an à la carte breakfast menu if you fancy something light like toast ’n’ eggs. And there are also four full set-breakfasts, too – the Full-Monty English offering (only in this case it’s listed as ‘Scottish’, in deference to Derek), the American alternative, a Euro version, together with a Thai variation, if you’re that way inclined. Oh – good place to mention it – the prices here aren’t grand in the least. And the top-of-the-list full breakfast will set you back you just 250 baht.

The breakfast menu is available all day, which I like the idea of. But it’s supplemented by a more general daytime menu, too. Bear in mind that the clubhouse closes early, not so long after the sun goes down, like the greens. Which means that there’s no up-market dinner menu – this is strictly a daytime affair. Which is not to say that the fairway fare is lacking in any way. “This is a golfer’s menu,” continued Derek. “It’s what we’ve found people want during the daytime. It’s hot and they’re thirsty, so our range of fresh juices is pretty good and there’s a wide variety of other beverages - beers, wines and spirits. Plus, of course, the first-rate breakfasts. But you’ll also find that the burgers are excellent: they’re made for us by a local chef – we don’t buy them frozen from the big supermarkets. Then there’s a range of sandwiches and a selection of light-bites. There’s a couple of German items - the pork leg and the sausage plate. And there’s a whole range of quality Mövenpick ice-creams, too – available by the scoop or the tub. Just the thing for a hot sunny day!”

Count your blessings, dear reader! Your awareness has already been expanded to include a) one of the best panoramas on the island and b) a superlative spot for breakfast. What more could there be? Well . . . golf! Many people like to play, and you could be one of the throng. I’m not talking professional (not in this instance anyway),

but there are many visitors to Samui each year who are partial to a hole or two (or nine or 18). You don’t need golf shoes, clubs or membership – not to explore this course, anyway. All you need is enthusiasm plus an inclination to enjoy your holiday and have some fun. And a bit more icing on the cake – after 3:30 pm (and all day on Wednesdays) you can play a full nine holes for well under 2,000 baht.

“You need to understand that golf in Thailand is essentially a serious bit of fun,” explained Derek. “For a lot of reasons, there are no handicaps here – it’s impractical. So, basically, it’s played in a spirit of competitive enjoyment and everyone is welcome to come along. The caddies here have been specially trained to direct and control the traffic on the greens. And, unlike countries such as Germany, Austria or Holland, there’s no certification needed.” (In these countries, and others too, not only do players need to strictly adhere to a prescribed dress code but they also have to have attained a certificate of competency. Not so here!)

The Santiburi Samui Country Club has an international course. The clubhouse menu reveals quite a few courses more. But, one way or another, the only handicap you’ll find here is missing all the fun.

Rob De Wet

For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7742 1700-8.www.santiburi.com

Multi-Course LunchThe Santiburi Samui Country Club offers a great view, a good lunch, and a fun day out – as well as golf!

LAMAI BEACH, KOH SAMUI . RESERVATIONS: +66 (0) 77 458 100 . BEACHREPUBLIC.COM

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The Beefeaters of Thailand

Beef. It’s a tricky subject. And it means all things to all men – women too! In many parts of the world today, the healthy lifestyle has swung towards lean meat and fish. And the Australians just love their ‘barbies’. But when it comes to America, there’s no two ways about it. This is a land of beef eaters. Last year alone the USA chomped its way through a staggering 52 billion pounds of beef. That’s around 270 pounds a person – an average of almost 12 ounces (340 gms) every day for each man, woman and child. And any old beef simply won’t do. All in all, there are tens of millions of people who will readily sling a rough, tough hunk of beef right back at the chef, pretty damn quick!

Thailand has many nice things. The weather, the people, the carefree lifestyle, fabulous food, a low cost of living. But there are a few things it’s lacking, at least for us farangs. Dairy products, for one – and that runs over into chocolate and ice-cream. Sighing loudly and moving on fast . . . another noteworthy item is beef. (OK, mutton, too, and maybe one or two others, but let’s keep to the point.) Let’s qualify that last one: Thailand has beef, but it’s not very good – although that’s something of a generalisation.

To be more precise, there are several excellent breeds of beef animals in Thailand. But the ones that are seen everywhere, and the meat of which you’ll find in your curries, are the Brahmans. This breed, which originally came out of India, is tough and insensitive to high temperature and humidity, and can get by with munching more or less anything green. And that’s the first problem: they’re left to graze upon anything that’s handy. Australian and American beef cattle are usually corn-fed and generally pampered; the resulting flavour of the meat is quite different.

And the other big difference is due to the climate. Begin with a low grade of animal, add poor feed, inadequate nutrition, a lack of comfortable grazing sources, shelter and adequate water – which is not the best of starts anyway. And then slaughter them and get them to market immediately before they start to stink. Oh dear! All of this is why a mouthful of Thai beef can take half an hour to chew. After slaughter, the breakdown of oxygen in the animal’s blood produces lactic acid, and it is this that tenderises the meat, adding flavour along the way. This continues as the beef is left to hang, the flesh changing colour as it does so. Three or four days in a low temperature environment, like a big

refrigerator, completes the process. And this just doesn’t happen with everyday Thai beef.

In fact, there is a strong movement afoot, in the northern regions of Thailand, to establish quality beef cattle. One company in particular, ‘Thai French’ in Udon Thani, has been breeding such cattle for quite some time, mingling the hardiness of the Brahman and Shahiwal strains with Charolais, Angus and Friesians. Reports are highly favourable, but this is only a drop in the ocean compared to the sheer tonnage of tough, stringy Thai beef that’s going around and, as far as I know, none of this high quality beef seems to be shipping to other areas of the Kingdom.

The other factor that affects the quality of the meat is what part of the animal it comes from. The front part of the animal is generally tougher (and therefore cheaper), whereas the rear quarters are more succulent. The toughness or stringiness is caused by inter-muscle connective tissue – of which the main component is collagen. The best cuts (tenderloin, sirloin) contain hardly any of this, making them a good place to start. And yes, even Thai beef, if cooked appropriately, can be succulent and tender (although the flavour varies quite a bit). The

secret is to hit a balance between temperature and the time of cooking, heating the meat until the connective tissue breaks down and the collagen is transformed into gelatin. Most often, that means braising. But while that time-proven technique certainly takes care of the collagen, it has trade-off effects as well. The meat turns brown as the myoglobin (which makes the meat red) is exposed to excessive heat, and it dries out as the water-holding capacity of the meat is greatly reduced. Is it all worth it? You’d need the patience and dedication of a saint to go though all this.

Talking of which brings to mind the eventual demise of St. Lawrence, patron saint of barbecue and griddle chefs. His manner of dying was unusually fiery: he was roasted alive over hot coals. Yet he maintained the cheer to murmur crisply, “I’m well done. Turn me over and do the other side.” Which is not entirely unconnected with the suffering experienced while trying to conjure a silky steak out of a Thai rump-cut. It can be done. Although, even if you can get it so that it’s fairly tender, you’ll still end up with a notable lack of flavour due to the livestock’s haphazard nourishment to begin with. So what’s the point of going through all of this when you

can simply buy good meat to begin with?

And, indeed you can, although it’s never used in small Thai street restaurants. At one time imported beef from Australia and New Zealand was a rare delicacy on Samui. But today just about every half-decent eatery will have it on the menu; there are so many gourmet importers on the island now. And even the big supermarkets stock a limited range of (frozen) cuts. All this is now quite usual. So much so that we’ve already moved onto the next phase. Giant juicy steaks are ten a penny. So let’s hear it for the Japanese (and Australian) strains of prime wagyu beef that everyone seems to be after. It’s so astonishingly tender you can cut it with a spoon. My granddad doesn’t even need his dentures for this delicacy – yet another person who’s been added to the ranks of the beefeaters in Thailand!

Rob De Wet

Is it all just about status, or is it necessary for our top restaurants to import their beef?

Pavilion presents the best in Samui Boutique Resort dining. Experience a romantic meal at The Patio Restaurant with outstanding sea views.

The Look-Out Bar is the ideal place to unwind with a drink by our beach side pool.

Lamai Beach, Koh Samui Tel: 0 7742 4420, 0 7742 4030 Fax: 0 7742 4029 [email protected] www.pavilionsamui.com

The Patio Restaurant serves authentic Italian and Thai delicacies. Enjoy breakfast, lunch and dinner with spectacular sea views and live entertainment.The Patio Restaurant serves authentic Italian annd Thai delicacies Enjoy breakfast lunch and dinnernd Tha r with spectacular sea views and live entertainmentr with s



Food on your Face!

Samui’s spas take advantage ofthe abundanceof tropical fruitand vegetablesin their treatments.

We all know how good fruit and vegetables are for us. Growing up with sayings such as ‘five a day’ or ‘an apple a day keeps the doctor away’, and stern warnings from parents to ‘eat your veggies, they’re good for you!’ spring to mind. That’s on the inside, but did you know that fresh fruit and vegetables can be just as good for you on the outside?

Walk into any spa that uses natural products and you’ll soon find that the facial treatments contain fresh fruit extracts or vegetable purees. In fact here on Samui, with the abundance of tropical fruit and vegetables on hand, it’s so much easier for the spas to take advantage of nature. Fresh fruit and vegetables are rich in antioxidants and skin-loving vitamins and minerals, and many can be applied directly on the skin in the form of a paste for easy absorption.

We’ve all seen pictures of cucumber slices placed on the eyes during a facial, or the green goo of an avocado face mask. But what are the benefits of these ingredients and what else can be used?

Well, cucumber has long been known to reduce dark circles under the eyes. It calms inflammation and shrinks the pores. So placing slices on your resting eyes after a few heavy nights will do wonders to rejuvenate your skin. It’s also effective in relieving sunburn and, along with aloe vera, is an ingredient in many after-sun lotions.

Avocado, although expensive here on Samui, contains several moisturising ingredients that will leave your skin smooth and supple. It also helps the skin naturally produce its own collagen. You can apply fresh avocado pulp to the face after your cleansing and masking routine as a deep moisturiser, and then rinse off with cool water.

Sticking with the vegetables, peppers help increase circulation and work well in cosmetics to plump up the lips – no collagen injections required! Carrots, other than supposedly helping us to see in the dark and making hair curly (Why don’t rabbits have curly hair then?), are rich in beta-carotene, which can help smooth rough skin patches. And dark green leafy vegetables are rich in antioxidants that reduce skin inflammation and prevent cell damage. Pumpkin, aside from making delicious soup and featuring at Halloween parties, has many skin benefits too. It’s rich in antioxidants, contains vitamins A and D, enzymes, magnesium and zinc. It’s a skin softener, soothes sunburn, reduces large pores, is an anti-inflammatory, prevents oil build-up and helps control acne, and is a natural exfoliator, therefore great for feet and hands.

Before we go to the fruit, let’s look at the tomato, that fruit that thinks it’s a vegetable. It’s rich in lycopene, which helps to fight free radicals, and its vitamin C boosts collagen production. Fruits such as bananas, papaya, berries,

cantaloupe, grapes, lemons, oranges, peaches, and pineapple can be used to make facial masks, luxurious skin creams, cosmetics and anti-aging products. And let’s face it, licking your lips as a banana and honey face mask oozes towards your lips is much more appealing than the green leafy vegetable option…

So what fruit are you likely to find in your masques, scrubs and wraps? Banana is common, particularly as it’s so abundant on the island. This delicious creamy fruit has natural oils that work perfectly as skin softeners while its rich vitamins and nutrients are wonderful for improving hair’s elasticity. Banana is excellent for treating bruises, allergies, wrinkles, dry skin and even acne. The peel is high in potassium, which makes a great treatment in itself for acne, warts, poison ivy rash and psoriasis.

Sticking with the local fruit, watermelon helps to soothe sunburn and helps repair skin by encouraging tissue regeneration. Also, pineapple contains a powerful enzyme that helps eliminate dead skin while protecting it from free radicals.

Lemon and lime act as a natural skin bleach and softener. Used on rough elbows, knees or foot calluses, citrus can make skin softer and suppler.

Papaya is another local fruit both delicious and good for beauty regimes. It contains vitamins A

and C, is rich in carotene and enzymes, and helps the fight against premature aging with its smoothing properties. It’s also an anti-inflammatory and natural exfoliator. This tropical fruit acts as a skin lightener for treating age spots and reducing freckles, helps treat acne and is a great hair treatment too.

Wine lovers have long proclaimed the benefits of a glass (or two) of wine a day. And in some countries, certain spas offer ‘wine baths’ whereby the guest soaks in a bath of red wine to rejuvenate the skin. This is one ingredient that some may argue is more fun consuming that using externally. But anyway, grapes of all shades are rich in antioxidants and also have exfoliating properties. Equally as good for anti-oxidants, as well as for anti-inflammatory properties, are blueberries, blackberries, and raspberries. Used in skin cream, they can help soothe skin while repairing surface cells.

Mango is effective in helping to restore the elasticity of the skin, which tends to decrease with age and is a natural way of regenerating skin cells and maintaining a youthful-looking skin. It’s a versatile fruit, often used in facial cleansers, scrubs and rich body butter.

But it’s the icon of Samui – the coconut – that’s probably most often used in spas. The oil is used as a base oil for massages and the thick milk is

often used in milk and floral baths to moisturise the skin. The oil makes an excellent hair treatment, making glossy and healthy-looking locks, and also repairs scar tissue when applied to healing wounds. Coconut flesh and fibres ground up fine make a good body scrub that leaves the skin glowing and moisturised by the oils in the flesh of the fruit too.

So the next time you see the local business people shopping at the fresh food market, it may not be only for the restaurants, but perhaps for the spas too! And a fun way to enjoy your ‘five a day’ is by a day of pampering at the spa. Mum never said how you should have your five fruits and veg, just that you must. Now that’s an argument you can win on a technicality…

Rosanne Turner


I've always loved Indian food. I remember clearly the first time I tried it. I was sitting around a table with my new Indian colleagues in South Africa eating an incredibly spicy mutton curry. The spices, the flavours and eating with my hands completely won me over. You may enjoy Thai food along with all its associated spices but deep down, maybe you hanker after a good Indian curry.

So where on Samui can you get an authentic Indian curry? There are a few Indian restaurants on the island but really, you've heard of the saying, "Give a man a fish and he'll eat for the day, teach him to fish and he'll eat for a lifetime", haven't you? So why not learn to cook traditional Indian food yourself and conjure up all manner of authentic dishes in the comfort of your own home.

Ok, so your question here might be, why on earth would you come all the way to Thailand to learn how to cook Indian food? Well, quite simply the answer is because you are given the opportunity to meet a passionate and charismatic man whose love of Indian food and the world around us is generously shared in his cooking course. Opportunities to meet rare souls like this are few and far between so when they present themselves, you have to take them. Isn't that was life is truly about?

DD Pande is the general manager at Noori India restaurant, situated on Chaweng Beach Road. A wonderful conversationalist and incredibly passionate about food and philosophy, DD is a very interesting man to talk to and even better to learn from (and not just about Indian food). He has taught at the School of Hotel Management and Catering Technology at Jaipur University and is a published poet and writer. He arrived on Samui ten years ago with the aim of helping his brother, Peter, in the restaurant, and has been here ever since.

DD offers an Indian cooking class in specially equipped premises not far from the restaurant itself. He quickly makes you feel at home, insisting that you treat the kitchen as if it were your own. You instantly relax and soon get caught up in his story-telling.

“Cooking is a mixture of science and art”, he explains. Yes, that makes sense; the science is all about the measuring, structure and organising of cooking the foods. The art part is when you experiment, taste, and cook from your heart, with passion and love. As DD correctly points out, many people talk of ‘Mama’s cooking’ with great fondness and we all know that Mums cook with love.

After donning your special ‘Noori India’ cooking

apron, you start with a little spice identification. You don’t realise how many spices are used in Indian cooking until you actually see them laid out in front of you. The smells are intoxicating - more than 15 different dishes holding ground spices such as cumin, coriander, masala, turmeric or chilli powder alongside their ‘whole’ partners such as cloves, star anise, cinnamon, cardamom pods (in black and green), coriander and cumin seeds and even dried nutmeg flowers. You are encouraged to smell and, under DD’s instruction, taste some of the seeds to try and identify and appreciate the flavours, all the time while listening to where these various spices came from, or how they are used in Indian cooking.

The cooking starts with something really easy - salsa with an Indian twist, made with cucumber, tomato, onion, lime juice, salt and a dash of spice. Every time a new ingredient is added to the mixture, you hear, “Mix with your hands, and taste!” This is very much a ‘hands-on’ course.

A slight change to the recipe saw us preparing our second dish by mixing the same ingredients (minus the lime juice) and adding DD’s homemade natural yoghurt and a different spice (no mixing with the hands here). Two simple dishes eaten with some freshly made

poppadoms (which we’d prepared seconds earlier using an open flame).

Next were the onion bhajis. DD told us that traditionally, onion bhajis are ‘bite size’ - a lot smaller than the huge versions you get in England. We learnt to mix the sliced onions with the chickpea flour and seasonings into a sticky dough (using once again our hands). Making sure the oil was very hot (DD had already explained that cold oil will just cause the food to absorb the oil rather than cooking and crisping it), we slowly slipped the little dough dollops into the oil. One by one, they turned a beautiful golden colour and I couldn’t wait to taste them!

But the magic didn’t end there. With DD’s help, more spices were chosen and thrown into another pot with hot oil - a chicken madras had begun! A firm favourite around the world, this dish completely blew me away. The ingredients were simply a selection of spices, onion, garlic, ginger, tomatoes, chicken and coconut milk. For years, I’d thought this dish was the culmination of hundreds of ingredients which needed days to prepare, and yet here we were creating it in a morning. Together we fried, we stirred, we steamed, we added chicken and later coconut milk and after a while, the Madras emerged. Further instruction resulted in some chapattis to

eat with our madras. I was awestruck - I had cooked my favourite Indian dish, and it tasted fantastic! I couldn’t contain my excitement.

I looked over at DD; a huge smile was spreading across his face. If his goal was to inspire people to cook Indian food and to encourage them to learn how simple it was, his mission had, yet again, been accomplished.

Colleen Setchell

For reservations or further information telephone 0 7741 3108.www.nooriindiasamui.com

DD Pande shares a few secrets of cooking Indian food.

Cookingwith a Dashof Philosophy

(main kitchen), with pizzas being served until 1:00 am.For reservations and further information, telephone 077 961 648

www.spagosamui.com

Open from 10:00 am - 01:00 am

BAR & RESTAURANT

Open from 12:00 am - 01:00 amFor reservations and further information,

telephone 077 963 213www.galangasamui.com

Grill & BBQFish and Seafood


It has a certain ring to it. It sounds modern and hip. You’d probably expect a party atmosphere too, with lots of young people, and a DJ late into the night. That’s true for most places with the words ‘beach club’ in their name, and Samui now boasts some of the best of this genre to be found anywhere. But attach the word ‘restaurant’, locate it within one of the friendliest resorts on the island, make it very laid-back and family-friendly – and you’ve got a different sort of ‘club’ altogether.

Buri Rasa is a name that commands respect from long-time residents on Samui, and can be numbered amongst the small and elite handful of long-established top-end boutique resorts here. Further, it’s situated in a prime position, slap bang in the centre of Chaweng Beach Road, close to where the one-way system turns into a two-way road. Wandering through from reception towards the beach is like flipping back to Greece or Italy – it’s not hard to feel that you’re in a tiny side street, which wanders between dinky two-storey Mediterranean houses with sun-bleached shutters and brilliant blooms. And then, as you emerge, you’ll find yourself next to the pool and alongside the extended restaurant that’s known as ‘The Beach Club’.

If you come along in the daytime, there’s not a lot to hit you in the eye. But at night it’s eye candy indeed, and the whole dimension changes, with the glowing pools of light, and cunningly placed spotlights leading you right onto the beach – but we’ll return to that in just a moment. The main restaurant with the kitchens attached is the first thing you’ll come to, and no doubt you’ll also notice the continued ‘sun-bleached shutters’ theme! This is open on three sides, and forms a pleasant retreat when you want to get away from the glare of the sun.

On the other hand – sun, sand and sea is the trinity that lures most of us here. And if you can’t resist the beach, then you’ll find these surroundings vastly more comfortable than most. Along with the usual sunbeds, there are low tables with beanbags around, plus a couple of flop-down sofas/day beds, and a scattering of big sun parasols for those who want them. There’s a daytime menu if you fancy a nibble,

and the service is such that you’re most welcome to enjoy your meal on the beach; it will be served to you where you recline.

As you might expect, what’s on offer during the day is neither extensive nor weighty: the team here has learned from experience that lite-bites and snacks are what people want. Thus you’ll be able to pick from a substantial range of salads and sandwiches (excellent sandwiches – each comes with side salad and some of the best fries around), burgers and baguettes, finger food plus a range of pasta dishes. And, as an alternative, some very well put-together wraps. Plus there’s a full menu of Thai dishes, too.

I have a theory that most visitors to Samui tend to stay in their resort every day, unless they have a day-trip planned. It’s familiar territory – plus the fact that wandering off and into another resort for the afternoon is somehow to be frowned upon. Maybe it’s private or not allowed. But rest assured that at The Beach Club you’ll be made most welcome. You can lounge about on the daybeds or catch up with your email (free Wi-Fi). But, naturally, it’s expected that you’ll also order a snack or some of those much-needed drinks while you’re at it!

But, the evening: ah! the evening! This is when the dimensions change, as the hard bright sky fades into the warm glow of the beachside lighting. The daytime menu changes into the dinner one at 6:30 pm each day – precisely matching the first happy hour when you’ll get cocktails, local beers and all spirits on a buy-one-get-one-free basis. (The other happy hour is from 10:30 to 11:00 pm, by the way.) And, unless it’s raining, all the dining activity shifts to the terrace overlooking the sand and onto the beach itself. Certainly, if you want to dine away from the others and inside the restaurant, then that’s a further option. But, for most, dining under the stars and with your toes wiggling in the sand is what holidays here are all about.

Every evening there’s a beach BBQ, with your choice of meats and seafood cooked for you on the spot. The side-by-side à la carte menu here is as thoughtful as everything else: each item is

coded with a different symbol indicating the degree of spiciness, whether an item contains nuts, and if it is a vegetarian dish. There’s even a kiddies’ section too. And on Mondays and Thursdays, there’s entertainment too, in the form of an acoustic trio featuring an outgoing female singer.

You’ll find that there’s an included salad bar with a big selection of dressings and dips. There are soups and other hot dishes, including sautéed potatoes, French fries, grilled vegetables, fried rice, red duck curry and stir-fried chicken breast, amongst others. The meat includes imported grass-fed beef steak, ribs and pork steaks, and the range of seafood includes all the usual items that you’d expect in a quality BBQ. But worthy of note are the seafood sets. These begin at 550 baht, rising to the piece de resistance, the platter for two, which includes a whole Phuket lobster, mussels, crab, calamari, tiger prawns, a white snapper and . . . a bottle of one of their featured wines.

The grub here is gorgeous, the service super, and the surroundings superb. And for those with families (particularly the ones in residence) this is one ‘beach club’ that doesn’t go on into the early hours of the morning. Everything winds down peacefully at around 10:30 pm, except for the bar, which glimmers on until 11.30 or so. Because here, at Buri Rasa, you’ll find that everything’s very much a family affair!

Rob De Wet

For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7723 0222.www.burirasa.com

178/2 Moo 1, Tambon Bophut, Koh Samui, Suratthani, Thailand, 84320 Tel: +66 (0) 7724 5795 www.bandarasamui.com E-mail: [email protected] Hotline reservation 089-653-6199, 084-357-9597

Pure Asian Experience

Monday Beach Barbeque Held in front of Chom Dao beach restaurant, the

buffet comprises a wonderful selection of fresh

seafood such as prawns, fish and squid, as well as

grilled and roasted meat including New Zealand

Lamb and Australian Beef, plus sushi, salads, main

dishes and delicious desserts.

Only 1,100 THB per person.

Children under 12 half price. Children under 6 free.


Club GrubThe Beach Club at Buri Rasa is very much a family affair.


Rather Palatable!The Palate Restaurant is a colourful addition to the Lamai dining scene.

Khun Virach Pongchababnapa has a keen eye for detail. Every project he tackles turns into a resounding success and his latest venture, The Palate Restaurant, is no different, as we discovered on a recent visit.

Nobody can argue that Samui is overflowing with choices of restaurants. So with competition rife, on many a night you’ll see some establishments struggling for customers. Yet arrive outside The Palate Restaurant, located opposite Pavilion Samui Boutique Resort, and you’ll discover the place abuzz. Smiling staff tempt passers-by with the fresh seafood display out front, the open-plan kitchen is a hive of activity with chefs cooking up a storm, and there’s a festive atmosphere coming from the dining room and deck.

So what’s the secret at The Palate? Well, it probably starts with the quirky and appealing décor, which is colourful, yet still tasteful. The restaurant has three dining zones, namely an indoor air-conditioned dining room, a courtyard that overlooks the show kitchen, and the upper

deck where diners can look down on the street scene below. The air-conditioned room is perfect for private functions, while the upper deck offers ‘natural air-conditioning’ by way of a breeze with its elevated position. Wooden tables in the courtyard and on the deck are painted in bright colours, and are paired with orange padded wooden chairs. A ‘wall’ of hanging plants swings in the breeze on one side, and the coloured wooden panel theme continues from the tables to the walls and counters. White hanging lanterns and table lamps add a warm glow, as do the broad smiles of the serving staff.

As great as ambience is, it’s not the only factor that makes a good restaurant. There’s also service, and of course, the food. Here, bubbly waiters gladly make recommendations, offer refills, check on the table without being obtrusive, and generally take good care of the guests. And a watchful manager is always around to oversee things too.

The Palate prides itself on serving authentic Thai

dishes, with some that you’ll find nowhere else on the island. But if you’re not in the mood for Thai, there’s a great selection of European dishes too, with a focus on Italian cuisine. The seafood, which features prominently on the menu, is as fresh as you can get, with the Hua Thanon fish market just around the corner. And if you’re in doubt, just glance at the display of wriggling crustaceans on the ice display … but not if you’re squeamish and don’t want your potential dinner to look back at you! For something different, try the ‘king river prawns’ from Suratthani on the mainland. Enjoy them served as a fusion of Thai and Italian, on a bed of fettuccine tossed in a tomato sauce.

Another recommendation for those keen to try Thai delicacies is the ‘tod-yun-pla-grai’, which are fish balls made from the ‘pla-grai’ fish, found only in the Chao Praya River in Bangkok. Sticking with seafood, crabmeat features prominently on the menu. Try the steamed crabmeat served with a seafood sauce, curried crab, or ‘poo ja’, which is fried crabmeat and minced pork, marinated with

spices and filled back into the crab shell.Khun Virach proudly states that their tom yum goong is authentic and the best you’ll ever taste.

Vegetarians aren’t forgotten, and as with most Italian menus, there’s ample choice for veggie lovers. Particularly good is the appetiser of baked spinach with cheese, as well as the white fettuccine, tossed with sautéed zucchini, mushrooms and parmesan shavings. The pizzas are served on a thin, crispy base, and are packed with ingredients, with vegetarian options available. Vegetarians can choose from salads too, such as the rocket salad with olives and parmesan shavings, and the caprese with buffalo mozzarella and plump tomatoes, drizzled with olive oil and served with balsamic vinegar. And of course, any of the Thai curries can be served as a vegetarian option.

As full as you may be after the generous portions, somehow, there’s always space for the tempting desserts, which are creatively presented. The crème brûlée is rich and creamy, and the tiramisu

is made with Kahlua to add some zing. The signature dessert, a hot chocolate soufflé oozes with gooey goodness … any chocoholic’s dream!

The Palate Restaurant is a great place to gather with friends over good food in a relaxed setting. The waiters keep the beer flowing, and the prices are reasonable too. The restaurant is open for dinner only, from 5:00 pm until 11:00 pm, and reservations are a good idea, as although it only opened recently, The Palate is already proving to be a popular dining venue in Lamai.

Rosanne Turner

For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7742 4420.

y y g p ,w, there’s always space for the tempting which are creatively presented. The

rûlée is rich and creamy, and the tiramisu

Probably the most beautiful Restaurant on the island. Dine outside in the lush gardens by the pool or inside the open air ‘dining room’. The exceptional Aziz and

his team present a modern take on Classical French Cuisine.

Events @ the beach front Bistro

Monday, Wednesday and Saturday: Live music.

Tuesday: Thai night with live Thai music and dancing

Thursday: Lobster night

Friday: Rustichella pasta night

Saturday: All day tapas

Sunday: International BBQ night with a live cabaret show.


The Farmer Restaurant & Bar

1/26 Moo 4, Maenam, Koh Samui Tel: 077 447 222, 077 247 979, 083 092 2632www.thefarmerrestaurantsamui.com email: [email protected]

Free transfer for dinner guests Nathon - Maenam - Bophut. Other areas 300 Baht return.

Для гостей из районов Nathon - Maenam - Bophut - трансфер бесплатный.Гостям из других районов острова мы возвращаем 300 батт от стоимости такси.

The Farmer Restaurant & Bar is the only restaurant on Samui offering a unique natural ambience, set amid paddy fields and green meadows. It is perfect for a relaxed lunch, or dinner under the twinkling stars.

Visit The Farmer and experience the real meaning of “Back to Nature” whilst enjoying the best of local Thai, Western and seafood dishes.

A Unique Koh Samui Experience at The FarmerThnare

Visen

A

TOP TEN 2011www.tripadvisor.com

Exclusive Lunch Promotion at The Farmer

12:00-15:00 daily

Pizza Margherita

1 scoop ice cream, 1 bottle of water.

250 Baht

Farmer’s Duck

Crispy fried duck servedwith herb sauce, rice, gourd soup,

fresh tropical fruit, 1 bottle of water.299 Baht

Farmer’s Duck

Voted Samui’s No.1 Tasty Duck


It was quite a few years ago now that I had a chance to tour around Egypt. And the best part was that the first week was free. My friend had married an Egyptian girl, and her folks insisted that I stayed with them in Cairo. Well, I wasn’t going to refuse! That was most certainly the best bit. But the worst part came hard on its heels. Long before I ever went, I had to suffer endless streams of advice. Keep your money in a belt hidden under your clothes. Never give money to beggars or they’ll swamp you. Get injections for malaria, dysentery, TB and half-a-dozen things ending in ‘itis’. Keep away from local food. Don’t eat any local meat; you don’t know what it is. Don’t drink the local water – or eat anything that’s been washed in it, and never drink anything with ice in it.

To cut a long story short, the family met me at the airport in the evening and took me straight to their house. Then prepared me a meal of meat, lots of freshly washed vegetables and salad, and topped it off with a nice glass of tap water filled with ice. That was a pivotal moment in my emotional development. (And, incidentally, I came to no harm from it at all.) But, remarkably, even today I still see that some of these folk tales have lingered on. Many people who come here are wary of the local food, the markets and the streets stalls. And the water is a story all by itself!

We all need water. But, as the title above suggests, there are some kinds of water we definitely don’t want, and there are many reasons that, in Thailand, we really do need to drink a lot of the fresh stuff. One of the big international Bangkok schools recruits staff from England every year. And, at the induction meeting, probably a full fifteen minutes is taken up by the topic of water. It’s pointed out that there are chilled water dispensers in all the major rooms and on every corridor. New staff are told that they won’t realise that they are rapidly dehydrating, even though they are not hot or sweating. They’ll usually think that, after a week, their fatigue is due to the workload or even culture shock or the lingering effects of jet lag. And that’s just on a normal day of getting up and going to work. But if you then add that to the alcohol that goes hand-in-hand with a party, or a Saturday night around the bars, then watch out. The school really doesn’t want staff illness just because nobody’s aware that, over here, you need something like half a litre of water every waking hour, just to retain your body’s natural fluid level.

Our body is composed of about 60% water, varying with our age and constitution. And even in cool and temperate climates when we’re not running a sweat, already we’re losing a half of any fluid loss just from our skin and breathing processes alone. At 20˚C, the average inactive adult loses between two and three litres of water a day. Consider a sweaty T-shirt (academically, of course!). Well, you know that feeling as you step out of your aircon into a normal, humid Samui day at around 30˚C – the feeling of all your pores immediately flooding-out

perspiration? Well that sweaty T-shirt is holding more than half a litre of lost water, just by itself.

I wasn’t kidding about that ‘half a litre of water every waking hour’. We’re fortunate in a way, as our climate here is humid: in an arid desert environment it’s usual for our body to lose around three litres every hour! The best way by far is to be preventative. Bottled water is cheap. Keep one with you and keep sipping. Get another bottle when it becomes tepid. And be moderate with your alcohol intake. Those daytime beers or cocktails might seem to match the holiday mood, but alcohol is a diuretic and causes you to dehydrate even more rapidly. And of course, if you happen to have picked up a touch of diarrhoea, then skip quickly ahead to the ‘shade and electrolytes’ stage!

So how do we know? What signs are there to tell us that we’re dehydrating? Well a sure sign is if you’re feeling a thirst. The first thing that the body does at 2% dehydration is to adjust the balance of where it stores its water, and this causes thirst and means you’re already becoming dehydrated. Pulse rate and breathing will be more rapid than normal. And if you’re feeling tired and energy-less along with this, then you better check for these signs, too: dark urine; dark hollows under the eyes; loss of skin elasticity (pinch your wrist – the skin should spring back immediately); a trench line down the centre of your tongue. If several of these symptoms are present, then stay in the shade for a day or so, cut out the alcohol, constantly drink water and look for something with electrolytes in it –you can buy it in powdered form from any pharmacy, and all the 7-11s and convenience stores stock a wide range of sports drinks.

Plus 20 different sorts of bottled water, too. Tap water here? Best not too. It’s untreated. And even resorts with water filtration systems can’t guarantee that the bacteria, protozoa and microorganisms are being removed. Then there are herbicides, insecticides and nitrates leached from the soil: as it happens, there really isn’t any widespread cultivation on Samui for this to be of significance. Clean rainwater is usually fine but it lacks essential minerals – and in any case why bother when bottled water is so readily available?

It seems a simple thing, doesn’t it? Drink water or you’ll have problems. Almost too simple. The lunatics on the roads are certainly more dramatic. The mosquitoes are more immediate. Sunburn is a daily niggle. These are all things you can see. But, with an informed guess, there are far more dehydrated visitors on our island than there are those with sunburn or grazed knees from tumbles. So be warned. And keep yourself ‘wet wet wet’ – both inside and out!

Rob De Wet

We all need water. But did yourealise just how much and what for?

WET WET WET

Enjoy your lunch or spectacular sunset dinnerat the open air Pavilion restaurant

overlooking the sea and the intimate atmosphere ofa small luxury villa resort.

Authentic Thai and international cuisine and wines.

Join us for a relaxed and unforgetabledining experience!

Open daily from 7.00 a.m. to 10.00 p.m. (ask for free pick-up service)

Santi Beach – Lipanoi Tel: 077-420008 – Fax: 077-420009e-mail: [email protected] www.siamresidence.com


When I was growing up and I realised my Mum was making one of my favourite meals, I always felt happier somehow, more excited about my evening. These meals were never anything over the top or by any means luxurious, they were just good, honest food cooked with bundles of love.

It is a well-researched fact that food affects our mood. Countless studies have been done showing how too much sugar can make you feel edgy and tired, or how low blood sugar can easily cause you to feel short-tempered or irritable. If you continuously nibble on high-sugar snacks or foods, your blood sugar level spikes and when it does eventually drop, it can cause feelings such as fatigue or grumpiness. A deficiency in essential fatty acids can also make you irritable, depressed or even violent.

A study was held in the UK at Aylesbury prison. They selected a group of young men and increased their intake of vitamins, minerals and essential fatty acids. The number of violent offences they committed in the prison fell by a staggering 37%. The chief inspector of prisons was quoted as saying that he is now “absolutely convinced that there is a direct link between diet and antisocial behaviour, both that bad diet

causes bad behaviour and that good diet prevents it.”

The sight (or even the smell) of food releases the hormone, dopamine, which is nicknamed the ‘pleasure’ hormone. It focuses our attention, makes us think more clearly, feel happier and even move faster. Once we start eating, serotonin (a neurotransmitter) kicks in making us feel even happier still and less stressed. We start to relax and our mood improves. Are you convinced yet?

Science aside, you know that just looking at a dish can evoke several emotions. How do you feel when you’ve been served a meal which looks like it’s been thrown together before the chef rushes home to prepare for a night out on the town? You’d be forgiven for feeling disappointed or even angry. Especially if you’re on holiday, far away from home and you’ve saved long and hard for your trip. Long hours at the office, pointless meetings, office politics and red tape and finally, you’re on the holiday you’ve been waiting for and you’re served a sloppy meal. No, that’s just not right. Disappointment and anger are strong emotions and have no place on anyone’s holiday, least of all on your holiday to Samui. You need a dish which you can see has been carefully

prepared to ensure that not only are you smiling on the outside, but on the inside too.

Enter Julian Fernandez, currently executive chef at 4K (pronounced ‘fork’), at X2 Resort just south of Hua Thanon. Born and raised in Colombia in South America, he has studied and worked as a chef both there and in Turkey, in the city of Istanbul, honing his skills and developing his relationship with food. Like most chefs, Julian is passionate about food; he is a keen traveller and has collected tips, tricks and various experiences from his travels around the world, which he brings to his kitchen. He has an adventurous streak and is always eager to explore, venturing into various areas in different countries, untouched by tourism. He enjoys connecting with the locals and, of course, learning about and sampling the local ingredients and different dishes.

So what has Chef Julian got to do with nutrition studies, essential fatty acids and people’s moods? Julian is aware of how eating good food can make or break someone’s holiday or how good food can turn your day from a potentially bad one into a great one. Besides his passion for food, he has a deep desire to ensure that all dishes that come from his kitchen make his

guests happy. Talking about his many travel experiences, he compares his kitchen to a small country. It has a ruler and heads of state and ultimately, they all work together as a team to make sure that everyone who visits feels like they’ve had a great experience which they will remember forever. The food prepared is likened to a journey - it starts as an idea, is perfected by the chef, is prepared and cooked in the kitchen, is artfully presented and finally served on the plate to the guest. Its journey is complete.

As part of his role as executive chef, Julian not only trains his staff members with regards to their cooking skills, but goes one step further. He teaches them the understanding and importance of genuine hospitality and customer satisfaction. He teaches them not only how they can utilise and make the most of the ingredients available to them, but more importantly, how to show respect for both the ingredients and the guests eating the food. He wants them to understand that showing people how much care has gone into the preparation of their food makes a lasting impression. For him, it is essential that his staff understand the role that both food and taste play in making or breaking a guest’s holiday. Currently, he has a team that works well together,

they have combined their knowledge, experiences and skills and the end result is a productive, genuinely caring team which goes out of its way to make sure the food served is as memorable as the holiday itself.

After all, Julian says, everyone deserves to be happy, especially if they’re on holiday.

We couldn’t agree more!

Colleen Setchell

For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7723 3033www.x2resorts.com

4K ensures your eating experience on Samui is memorable.

HAPPY FOOD EQUALSHAPPY PEOPLE

Sunset Dining in Spectacular SurroundsEnjoy breathtaking sunsets while discovering our culinary delights at The Terrace, one of Koh Samui’s best beachfront dining destinations.

A holiday or a visit to The Passage would not be complete without sampling the food at The Terrace. Nestled on the beach, this majestic open-air restaurant affords diners a perfect view of the spectacular sunset over Laem Yai Bay and the distant islands.

This epicurean dining nirvana serves up the finest catches from the sea so our guests can feast like kings. Pay homage to our specialty – the royal triumvirate of lobster, tiger prawn and oysters.

Engage your senses as Executive Chef Moo takes you on a culinary journey, and discover the flavours that resonate in Thai-European fusion cuisine.

Rock Lobster Carbonara Pizza

River Prawn Tom Yum Lamb Chop

Sea Food Taco Beef Lasagna

Phuket Lobster Thermidor

The Passage is not just a resort. It’s also a great location for weddings and honeymoons. The resort offers specially designed packages to suit your personal style and budget.

So come and experience the wedding of a lifetime at The Passage Koh Samui.

Weddings, Celebrations, Parties& Honeymoons

The Passage Samui Villas & ResortLaem Yai Beach

Reservations 077 421 721www.thepassagesamui.com


A crescent bay with various small craft bobbing in the shallow waters. A thin line of coral reef marks the beginning of the deeper blue gulf beyond, stretching out east to forever. The wide clean-swept beach seems private, with just a nearby watersports operation taking up the northern end near the rocks. The ring road is close by, but the hum of traffic is only a vague murmur harmonizing with the gently lapping sea. It’s a grand spot to sit down and order from a comprehensive seafood menu.

You almost didn’t get a chance to allow the view to sink in, what with the friendly wait staff leading you to your seat, promptly producing the aforementioned menu and standing by with pads at the ready. It’s not a hard sell approach and when we ask for a bit of time to take it all in, the waiter backs off sweetly and hovers nearby.

There are not many restaurants on Samui so amenable for all day and night dining, and certainly few with such a sweet location. Open from 10:00 am to 10:00 pm, Krua Chao Baan is a good choice for any meal and for a snack any time in between. Facing east/south-east over the water you can relish the clear morning light or the piling up of late afternoon clouds blushing pink at sunset. At night the squid boats ring the horizon and bring us back to the business at hand - the treasures of the sea.

The menu is comprehensive all right and reflects the clientele, which includes Thai and foreign tourists and locals. The staff are geared up to match your order to your taste with fiery spicy southern food if you can take it, or toned down if you can’t.

We skip over the appetizers such as fried spring rolls, fish cakes and spicy salads and start with rich coconut cream soup with squid, delightfully soured with young tamarind leaves. My companion has never tasted this dish before. It’s a

delight to both of us as Thai food adventurers that even after more than 15 years on Samui there is still unexplored territory.

I push the envelope and order spicy seaweed salad with ‘hoi jo’ - a mussel of some sort that is apparently prised off the rocks. Now I’m in unmapped territory myself, but there be no dragons here, only a medley of divine flavours. The seaweed is fresh and looks like tiny branched coral. It’s also crunchy, and served with tart green mango, scallions and a dash of fermented shrimp paste (kapi) that all blend sublimely with the salty briny mussels. If you close your eyes you can imagine a cool crashing sea on some wild rocks.

Hor mok, a mousse of coconut cream with curry, fish and seafood steamed in a banana leaf is another special southern dish. Krua Chao Baan’s version is not too finely minced, and I rather enjoy finding small shrimps or whole bits of fish baked into the mousse. For variety we order pla sai tod khamin - a rather small fish fried in fresh turmeric. The seafood sauce accompanying this dish is a must-try as the lime and chilli cut through the fried fish taste perfectly. There are other local specials on the menu such as the house omelette stuffed with seafood, chicken and mushroom. The pork sautéed in wild lime leaves is also noted for a return visit.

The variety on offer is impressive - from soups to somtam and everything in between. There is pork, chicken, beef, prawn, crab or seafood. There are Indian, massaman, yellow, sour, sweet green or roasted duck curries. Spaghetti can be served Italian style as say a marinara or Thai style with crab meat.

There are steaks and burgers, as well as a fine selection of local fish including white snapper and pomfret. And did I mention blue crabs, mud crabs, shellfish, mussels and oysters? King prawns and lobsters can be prepared baked,

fried, in panang sauce, in massaman curry, stewed or baked.

The ‘up to you’ easy-going ambiance and variety is best reflected in the dessert menu. I’m hard pressed to decide between the (rare-on-Samui) black sesame dumplings floating in a hot ginger sauce, and a classic bowl of chocolate ice cream. You can also choose between classics like mango and sticky rice served with coconut cream, a variety of parfaits and ice creams including fried ice cream. I consider it out of my mandate as a food writer to try everything. If you want to know what that tastes like, you’ll have to go yourself. I didn’t eat breakfast either, but here again you have no shortage of options what with Continental or American, eggs bacon & sausages, pancakes, waffles, roti, Thai rice soup, or stuffed omelette.

The restaurant is quite large with tables for four or six that can be arranged for bigger groups in several separate thatched structures. It’s reassuringly popular, so if you fancy a seaside table or if you are a large group, come early. On the weekends and during Thai holidays, the place is full of eager diners. But have no fear as the service is fast, friendly and efficient.

You’ll find Krua Chao Baan on the sea side of the ring-road, about midway between Hinta Hinyai and the village of Hua Thanon. If you are coming from Lamai it’s south of Rocky Resort and it’s best to slow down passing the temple on your left as you’ll come across it quite suddenly at the bottom of that hill. There’s plenty of parking out front.

Annie Lee

Going NativeJoining the locals at Krua Chao Baan.


Eating at The Farmer is not just a meal. It’s an excursion. Here, you get to experience your meal in the making – literally, as the restaurant sits amid a rice paddy which produces enough rice to supply the menu. The Farmer has 16 rai of land in Ban Tai just off the ring-road along Samui's northern shore – most of which is under paddy. As with most of Thailand's rice, jasmine is the variety grown here, and they harvest twice a year.

In case you’re wondering, the rice is not the signature dish, but it is worthy of a mention. As the main accompaniment to the establishment’s famous curries, the rice here is not only tasty, but pretty too. As rice is such a feature at The Farmer, it comes standard with meals, and isn't charged extra. And this is no ordinary rice. No, here you don't get run-of-the-mill steamed white rice, but five herb-flavoured varieties neatly packaged in banana-leaf parcels and steamed. It makes quite a colourful accompaniment – there's original white, yellow turmeric, purple butterfly-flower infused, red rosella, and a green one coloured and flavoured with pandan leaf.

As fancy as the rice is, the curries are what bring customers to The Farmer. The restaurant doesn’t use curry paste from the market. According to owner, Khun Lek, her recipes have been passed down in the family for generations, and they are ‘top secret’, she says with a chuckle. Most dishes on the menu are traditional Thai, but some have the option of an unusual twist. Take the massaman curry for example – the signature dish. There’s the more common chicken version, but also a few variations you’re not likely to see elsewhere. The beef massaman is made with Kobe wagyu beef, and there’s a Phuket lobster

option too, which looks very impressive as a whole lobster emerges from the sauce and takes over the plate.

But it’s the lamb shank massaman that stands out from the ‘sea of massamans’ available on Samui. A whole lamb shank is slow roasted and simmered in Khun Lek’s famous sauce. Rather than pieces of potato usually served in the curry, with this lamb version a soft, buttery mash sits on the plate, and then the fall-off-the-bone shank is placed on top and coated with the thick, rich massaman sauce. The portions are generous too, so come hungry. And even if you’re full, you won’t be able to leave any behind. Khun Lek says that customers always ask to take the rest home, as it’s too good to waste.

Now while she holds tightly on to the family’s secret recipe, she did reveal a few aspects of the lamb massaman, if you’re after a few pointers. Firstly, imported lamb from New Zealand is used, as lamb is not a common ingredient in Thai recipes. She doesn’t use any MSG in her recipes – and how could she, with a recipe that’s been in the family long before MSG made its mark on the lazy cook’s flavouring list? She also believes in using organic ingredients wherever possible, as they’re not only tastier, but healthier too. But that’s all she’s revealing about her sauce.

It has just the right amount of heat too. The recipes are not toned down in flavour for the Western palate. But, should you want a milder version, just ask, and the only ingredient that will be altered from the authentic Thai version is the amount of chilli used. Massaman is the mildest of the Thai curries, so it’s a good introduction for

those not yet used to the spice of Thai food. The green curry is equally as good, with its crisp, fresh heat and distinctive flavour. For vegetarians, let the kitchen whip up a vegetable and tofu green curry, which is particularly good.

You’ll often find Khun Lek in the kitchen at The Farmer, where she acts as ‘quality controller’. She’s quite particular about the standard of food, and rightly so, as The Farmer has won several awards since it opened.

And while you’re enjoying your ‘secret recipe’ massaman curry, you can enjoy the elegant furnishings as well. Khun Lek has an eye for style and a taste for Balinese furnishings (she owns a home and a business in Bali too), which fits in perfectly with the paddies outside. And if the quest for the perfect massaman curry is too far for you to travel, not to worry, as the restaurant offers a free transfer service from the Nathon to Bophut areas. Guests staying beyond this, pay only 300 baht per trip for up to 10 people in the minivan.

Rosanne Turner

For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7744 7222. www.thefarmerrestaurantsamui.com

Signature Dish

The Farmer Restaurant & Bar, set amidst Samui's only rice paddy, is renowned for its curries.

Authentic Thai CuisineCalifornia CuisineSucculent BBQ Seafood


It’s not hard to imagine. As Samui began to grow, it began to specialise. We didn’t just see better engineers and architects, but better restaurants appeared, too, and their chefs with them. Then there was a kind of pivotal point on the island’s dining scene – and also in a lot of other areas; these things are all inter-related. This can be tracked down to the last few years before the new millennium. Samui was anticipating a–turn-of-the-century influx like never before, and all around the island the air was full of smiles and optimism.

Naturally enough, competent, international chefs need to use quality ingredients – and bear in mind that at the time we’re talking about there was only one bakery on the island; this was in Nathon and specialised in the sugary loaves of white bread that the locals preferred. And so, in little isolated pockets around Samui, the better restaurants and resorts baked their own in-house breads. The climate of southern Thailand is too hostile for the usual staples of tomatoes and potatoes – even peas and carrots have a hard time surviving, and strawberries don’t stand a chance. So all these things, and more, had to be regularly shipped down from the cooler regions around Chiang Mai.

The specialist food suppliers, which today abound, had yet to make an appearance. So it

made a lot of sense for two or three of Samui’s chefs to club together and share the costs of imported herbs, cheeses, meats, truffles and all the other gourmet items that are actually quite common in a well-stocked Western kitchen. And, quite simply, this was how Samui’s Culinary Circle began. For a while this remained as informal meetings between friends. But as the island headed towards the turn of the century, so more people became involved – the general managers of smaller resorts, the food and beverage managers of the larger ones. Thus, in the high season of 1998, the Samui Culinary Circle (SCC) came officially into existence.

Today there are more than 70 full-time active members, with double that amount on the mailing list. Each month there’s a get-together hosted by a different member, usually in the form of a lunch. Specialist suppliers and distributors have a chance to showcase their wares, new info and gossip is exchanged, and plans put forward for future events, sponsorships, and fund-raising ideas for deserving local causes.

Today Rueben Kimber sits in the president’s chair. Rueben’s been on the island for a while now, having moved here from a distinguished career in the UK (including, most-recently, his stint at the prestigious London Dorchester). Looking back over Samui’s evolution reveals more than a few

peaks and troughs, and so I was interested to delve into his insights, particularly with regard to the culinary scene here on the island.

“I think the whole atmosphere changed some four or five years ago,” he told me, “when the big international 5-star names all seemed to take an interest in Samui around about the same time. There were already many world-class restaurants and chefs on the island. But these conglomerates spend millions every year on research into potential new locations. And whatever it was that needed to be ticked off on their lists, it seems that Samui suddenly met their requirements. Quite obviously this meant that there was a significant number of new, top-of-the-line restaurants and chefs being introduced onto the Samui scene – it’s quite usual for some of these icons of the hospitality industry to build three, or even four, restaurants into their resorts. This is significant in itself. But what also came along with all this is more revealing.”

“Samui already had an active alternative to the many beachside resorts,” Rueben continued. “Scattered around, and mostly privately-developed and owned, there were small estates of villas, usually in clusters of six or seven or ten. But with the influx of the 5-star luxury resorts, so a parallel developed. Now increasingly more up-market villas appeared – quite a number

of them being introduced on the sites of the 5-star resorts themselves, as an alternative to their in-house suites. These opulent villas came complete with their own staff, including an internationally-experienced chef. But quite often the privately-owned sector relies on the availability of outside catering of a correspondingly high quality. And this means that now many more ‘boutique’ villas have access to visiting gourmet chefs that previously were tied to a tighter contract.”

“The other aspect that’s connected with this is Samui’s upsurge as a desirable destination to get married. Where at one time you usually saw chicken in a basket, it’s now common to find a whole range of gourmet dishes as well, and there are more and more formal evening dinners being requested. The vibrancy of the culinary scene on Samui has taken a sudden leap in just the last three or four years, and a far higher overall quality is not only readily available, but frequently expected.”

Which leaves us quite where, I wondered. What comes next? I asked Rueben for his thoughts about the future of wining and dining on Samui. He paused for a moment, then nodded. “The airport,” he replied cryptically. “Here, where I work at ‘YL Residence No 17’, it’s a 20-villa self-contained luxury resort. One guest – one

group – has the excusive occupancy for the duration of their stay. We see many wedding groups. But there are equally as many corporate visitors for get-away board meetings, MICE events or exclusive incentive rewards. Quite often guests arrive on the island in their private jets and are transported here by road. But the plane then has to fly over to Surat Thani to be serviced and hangered. There are no facilities for this on Samui. The time for this is now upon us, and this is something that needs to be addressed in order for the island to develop further.”

And I was expecting this to be all about the latest fads in molecular truffles and caviar. It was quite an eye-opener talking to Rueben. And, although the Samui Culinary Circle is flourishing, judging by his last observation about the number of private jets, the SCC is not the only thing that’s ‘circling around’!

Rob De Wet

Circling Around

The Samui Culinary Circle keeps growing – president Rueben Kimber reflects on how this links-in with Samui’s wining and dining trends.


Milk foam designs, known amongst baristas as ‘latte art’, are artistic patterns created in the foam of coffee drinks such as cappuccinos and lattes. And as with many arts, this concept originated in Italy. But it’s quickly spread around the world, including to here in Thailand, where the baristas at Black Canyon coffee houses have been taught this slight-of-hand skill.

Khun Auchalee Kiriativittayanan is the owner of the Black Canyon franchises on Samui, and opened her first branch in 2003, so there’s no doubt she knows about coffee. Khun Wongchan Jinawong, general manager of the Samui stores, ensures all branches keep up the good name of the franchise, and that all baristas are skilfully trained in keeping with that barista championship award.

Currently, you can enjoy Black Canyon coffee and meals at two locations, namely the Tesco Lotus centres in both Chaweng and Lamai. Khun Auchalee believes in convenient locations, and

that means a shopping area with plenty of parking. The Chaweng branch will be renovated soon, but more exciting is the coming of a third branch in the much anticipated Central Festival Samui mall, currently under construction near Chaweng Lake and due to open in March/April 2014. This new 107 square metre store will be in keeping with the brand’s décor and style of comfortable seating – both sofas and upright traditional dining tables in a modern, air-conditioned setting that also offers free Wi-Fi. So keep this in mind as a great place to rest weary legs after a day of shopping and exploring the new mall.

Who doesn’t like a good deal? Well, worthy of a mention is the Black Canyon member card, available for 249 baht. This gives you 10% cash or a 5% credit card discount on everything barring beer and cake (an interesting combination). You’ll also get one free Black Canyon iced coffee or iced chocolate and a shopping bag, as well as 1,500 baht worth of

Black Canyon discount coupons – now that’s 249 baht well spent. And you’ve plenty of time to use the vouchers, as the card is valid for 18 months.

Not that you need a discount voucher to enjoy a meal or drink at Black Canyon, as the prices are reasonable to begin with. Few venues have as wide a selection as Black Canyon. In fact, the choice is so great that you’ll have to check out the menu yourself, and it’s an attractive menu at that. Little anecdotes keep you reading on further, long after you’ve made your choice, so hang on to the menu after you’ve placed your order. For example, you can read about ‘the benefits of coffee’ or ‘the origin of chocolate’. There’s a ‘tea story’ or a ‘coffee legend’ too in case you want some reading material while you sip your steaming (or iced) refreshment.

No matter your taste, Black Canyon has a drink for you – from the Italian-style cappuccinos, espressos and lattes and Americano black coffee

as well as an assortment of hot and iced teas. But if you fancy trying something different, why not a drink with an Asian twist. Now while the ‘red bean cha Thai frappe’ or the ‘red bean green tea frappe’ may not be to everyone’s liking, most people enjoy the unique flavour of Thai iced tea, with or without milk – it’s quite a bit stronger than English tea, so works well with milk for iced tea. Those avoiding caffeine might try the ‘green tea frappe, or ‘iced green tea latte’. There’s also a wide selection of chocolate-based drinks, both hot and cold, for the chocoholics as well as fresh fruit juices, fruit shakes and smoothies made with fruit and yoghurt for those on a health kick.

Food also features prominently at Black Canyon, but this is not just a ‘cake and coffee’ joint – Black Canyon has an extensive menu, both Asian and Western, ranging from breakfasts through to dinner. Choose from soups and salads, and even fresh fish dishes too. A light salad is just what you need to refuel during a

shopping expedition when you don’t want a heavy meal, such as Black Canyon’s caesar salad, grilled black pepper salmon salad or apple salad with crispy prawn, to mention but a few. The chain runs various promotions from time to time, so keep an eye open for these.

Black Canyon is a popular brand throughout Thailand, largely due to the fact that you know what you are getting when you go there – high standards, reasonable prices, good food and coffee in a modern, comfortable setting. What more do you want from a coffee house?

Rosanne Turner

For more information, visit www.blackcanyoncoffee.com.

Latte ArtAs winners of the National Thailand Barista Championship,

you’ll find a work of art in every cappuccino at Black Canyon.y


Bordeauxʼs Bordeaux... just the name conjures up all sorts of extraordinary wine expectations. And for so many wine drinkers around the world, red Bordeaux, or Claret as the British have always known it, can be the epitome of fine wine. The best wines exhibit a wonderful complexity of aromas and flavours, great elegance and refinement and an ability to age gracefully, some for a hundred years.

Despite being considered archaic by many progressive wine buffs, Appellation Contrôlée (often abbreviated to AOC) still dogmatically governs all of France. AOC covers a certain geographical district and stipulates production methods (including grape variety) of wine within that district. Even after 150 years, the classification remains more-or-less unchanged. But it is worth remembering that many of the original classified Chateaus in Bordeaux are still producing some of the world's greatest wines (in dollar terms at least).

Today, the five ‘blockbuster’ Bordeaux wines, from the iconic Chateaus of Lafite-Rothschild, Latour, Margaux, Haut-Brion, and Mouton-Rothschild, command very high prices, to the extent that only investors acquire the great vintages. And who knows if they will ever be drunk? Sadly, the fate of the modern classic is often to be hidden away for decades, locked in a darkened room somewhere in the Far East, simply to be auctioned off again to another heartless investor.

Although the ‘great’ Clarets draw a lot of attention, Bordeaux does produce a large quantity of relatively inexpensive ‘everyday’ wine. And the region also enjoys an enthusiastic following for its very attractive, reliable white wine and sweet wine options. But it cannot be denied that the Bordeaux legend has been built on a foundation of red wine, for hundreds of years, forged in large part by that historical, and somewhat symbiotic, relationship with the British over the highly coveted Claret.

When it comes to vintage quality, Bordeaux’s climate is a critical factor. Located in the

southwest corner of France, just miles from the Atlantic Ocean,

Bordeaux benefits considerably from

the coastal maritime

influence, and typically enjoys wet springs, fairly gentle summers and mild winters. The Gulf Stream exerts a warming influence on the region, yet summer weather can be fickle and inconsistent, making for interesting issues when it comes to getting grapes to fully ripen. With great vintages built on the backs of well-ripened grapes and intended to age for the long haul, and good vintages, maintaining the silver lining of being ready to drink earlier, and selling at more affordable prices, the best vintages are always the warm ones. Bordeaux can be a cool climate for red grapes, which need plenty of sun to reach full maturity, with optimum levels of sugar and tannin. Mature grapes create great wines. And great vintages are built to cellar. They have a density, intensity and overall complexity that will only get more interesting with age. Recent Bordeaux vintages that fall into the great category include 2005, 2009 and 2010.

Don’t expect to find the grapes on the labels of Bordeaux wines, you’ll find producer names, various villages, appellations and AOC designations, but not grapes. Why? Mystical wine folklore, it’s where the grapes are grown - the terroir, the region, the village, the chateau itself that is most important. This can make it tough to navigate Bordeaux wines for New World consumers, who tend to be more grape-centric, born and raised on the varietal label. Remember the name of the game in Bordeaux is blend. But not just the dominant grapes, it’s the combination of the climate, soil and overall metaphysical nature that creates a wine from Bordeaux, and certainly nothing as mundane as the individual grape varieties!

However, the simple fact, which guileful wine aficionados love to complicate, is that Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are the primary red grapes grown in Bordeaux. Weighing in at 60% and 26% respectively of the vines planted, with Cabernet Franc at 12%. Malbec and Petit Verdot may also be grown in Bordeaux, but they are grown in much smaller quantities and are used more for “seasoning.”

White wines make up about 11% of Bordeaux’s total wine market. And Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, the floral Muscadelle and Ugni Blanc are the only four grape varieties allowed to participate in the white wine AOC labelled blends of Bordeaux. For a lean, dry white wine, brimming with acidity and food-friendly character, look for labels sporting the district of Entre-Deux-Mers. If you prefer more body and complexity, then scout labels with district designates of Pessac-Leognan, or the ever-popular Graves.

It’s certainly true that labels focusing on geography and highlighting a wine’s AOC classification, makes buying wine from Bordeaux an intimidating experience. And there are often supercilious discussions amongst Bordeaux devotees, especially about whether a vineyard lies on the left or right riverbank. Why does it matter? Actually, it doesn’t really matter that much, but to the west of the river Gironde, the vineyards of the Médoc and Graves are based on gravelly soil, and are planted mainly with Cabernet Sauvignon vines. To the east lie Pomerol and St-Emilion, two smaller areas of predominantly clay soil, planted with a higher proportion of Merlot. Hence we have ‘left bank’ and ‘right bank’ wines.

In fact, vintage is a far more important consideration - it’s the critical factor in buying Bordeaux wines. It should come as no surprise that big name Chateaus secure astronomical prices for their great vintages, but you still can find solid red wine blends, at reasonable (ish) prices, from Bordeaux's more modest Chateaus. Although there’s no getting away from the fact that you still pay a premium, merely for the bumptious Bordeaux AOC classification.

Peter James

(Or a lovely drop of Claret.)

Blockbusters

Serving an exciting variety of Thai, Italian and seafood from our open, show kitchen with genuine pizza oven.Choose from open air seating on the first floor with ocean view or air-conditioned seating on the ground floor.

Live music every night.

Located on Lamai Beach Road opposite Pavilion Samui Boutique ResortOpen daily from 5 pm till 11 pm

Reservation: 077 424 420www.siamwininganddining.com 23

It’s all happening at Nora Beach Resort & SpaTuesday Night - Local Samui Buffet

Fresh BBQ seafood plus a variety of Samui style dishes. Entertainment - Thai Classical Dance & Mariposa Duo

Thursday Night - Southeast Asian BuffetA variety of food stalls from Southeast Asia plus buffet of BBQ meat.

Entertainment - Fire Dance Show & Mariposa Duo

Saturday Night - Cabaret NightEnjoy with our Chef Special buffet, with a variety of East meets West creations.

Entertainment - Cabaret Show & The Barge Trio

Daily Cooking Class & Fruit Carving ClassLearn to cook 3 Thai dishes

Fruit Carving CourseInclusive of chef hat, apron and certificate

Advance reservation required

Daily Happy HourBeverage Special Offer 50% off (Except wine & liquor by the bottle)

At Pool Bar 1-2 pm., Lobby Lounge 6-7 pm. & 9-11 pm.

Private Romantic DinnerOnly you and your loved one dining on the beach with private chef and waiter/waitress

Available daily. Advance reservation required

For further information please telephone 0 7742 9400

Chaweng Beach RoadChaweng North

Tel: 0 7742 9400 Fax: 0 7742 9498E-mail: [email protected]

www.norabeachresort.com

The Barge Nora Buri's Signature Restaurant Chaweng North For Reservation Tel: 0 7791 3555 E-mail: [email protected] www.noraburiresort.com

Fine Beach & Hillside Diningat Samui's Newest VenueQuality Thai, Seafood & International DishesThe Ultimate Samui Dining Experience!

Monday - Cowboy Steak NightAssorted BBQ Meat BuffetEntertainment: Cabaret Show and The Barge Band

Tuesday, Friday and SaturdayLobster Basket Set: 3,300 for 2 personsSeafood Basket Set: 2,300 for 2 personsInclusive of Salad, Soup and Side dishesEntertainment: Duo Band

Wednesday - Hawaiian Seafood NightVariety of Fresh Seafood & BBQ Meat BuffetEntertainment: Polynesian Dance and The Barge Band

Thursday - Local Thai Night Variety Thai Food Buffet, Demonstration & BarbecueComplimentary Management Cocktail Party 6-7pmEntertainment: Thai Classical Dance or Pong-lang Dance

SundayChef Creation Set Dinner and A La Carte Menu

No visit to Samui is complete until you have dined at The Barge

Rice Barge Authentic Thai Cuisine


Documents

October 2013