Nyungwe Trail Guide

NatioNal Park 1

NyuNgweN a t i o N a l P a r k

a trail guide for Rwandas

FOREWORDTourism is perceived as a pillar for economic development for Rwanda, and Nyungwe National Park plays an important role in this sector as primary nature based tourist destination in Rwanda. In the year 2005, Nyungwe was upgraded from a Forest Reserve to a National Park. This has enabled us to position it as a tourist destination among other conservation benefits that come with a National Park status.

As a nature based tourist destination, Nyungwe National Park is a paradise for hikers and a network of nature walk trails has been developed for you. Please enjoy and share your experience with others to encourage more visitors to come to Nyungwe National park. It is through such visits that the park generates income to support conservation efforts that are aimed at securing the future of this important resource for future generations.

I would like to thank all those who have tirelessly worked so hard to prepare this guidebook. Special appreciation goes to Destination Nyungwe Project (DNP) and International Resources Group the prime contractor for championing its development and production as well as USAID Rwanda for financing the project.

Finally, it is an honour for me to welcome you to Nyungwe National Park.

Foreword is authored by:Mrs. Rica RwigambaHead of Tourism and ConservationRwanda Development Board

AcknOWlEDgEmEntsThe Rwanda Development Board (RDB) would like to express its thanks to a number of people and organizations that contributed to the

preparation of this guide including: Doreen Bolnick, principal author, who walked most of the trails and developed maps and elevation

profiles; Bruce Bolnick, who hiked with Doreen and took many photographs; Destination Nyungwe Project (DNP) Chief of Party

Ian Munanura; current and former WCS staff Nsengiyumva Barakabuye, Flix Mulindahabi, and Bill Weber; Amy Vedder (UNDP

Technical Advisor on the Protected Areas Biodiversity Project); International Resources Group (IRG) Glen Anderson, Kathryn

Hoeflich, Daniel Lapidus, and Kyung Kim; IRG advisor Peter Nizette; and Eberhart Fischer. RDB would also like to acknowledge the

Nyungwe National Park guides who worked with Doreen, shared their knowledge of the park and the folklore surrounding the park

and its natural resources: Elys Habakwitonda, Vdaste Mpakaniye, Daniel Niyonsaba, Claver Ntoyinkima, Jean Claude Nyirimbabazi,

Japhet Rutonesha, Jean Aim Shumbusho, Jean Aim Sibomana, Jovith Siborurema, Martin Sindikubwabo, and Claude Uwamahoro.

IntroductionPark InformationAccommodation, including campingTransportationClimateKinyarwanda greetingsHiking Nyungwe Climate Whattobring Trailconditions Acclimatization Trailmaps ElevationprofilesThe TrailsEast of Uwinka BiguguTrail Congo-NileDivideTrail MuzimuTrail NgabweTrail RukuziTrailUwinka BuhoroTrail

IgishigishigiTrail ImbaragaTrail IreberoTrail UmugoteTrail UmuyoveTrailWest of Uwinka Isumo(Waterfall)Trail KamiranzovuMarshTrail(andOrchidTrail) KarambaTrail UwinkaTrailPrimate ViewingExcursionsGisakura Tea PlantationOCIRTeaFactoryBanda Community WalkBirding in NyungweAlbertine Rift Endemics found in Nyungwe National ParkRecommended ReferencesSupporting Conservation in Rwanda

tAblE OF cOntEnts

6 NatioNal Park

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NyungweNational Park, at 1,019 square kilometers, is the largestmiddle-altitude rainforest in Africa. With exceptional vistas framed by giant trees, waterfalls cascading through pristine forests and an exceptionally diverse inventoryof faunaandflora,Nyungwe iswellworth the trip.Over130kmofwell-

constructed trails invite travelers of all fitness levels to explore Nyungwe, take in the

freshmountainairandspendtimewithafewofNyungwes13differentprimatespecies.

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The Nyungwe rainforest once extended, in Rwanda, from the Burundi border in the south, to Volcanoes National Park in the north. In the early 1900s, the loss of forest in the Nyungwe region had already attracted the attention of the German colonial administration and the area was given Crown Land status. At that time, the northwestern boundary still extended as far as the shores of Lake Kivu.Meanwhile,bythe1930s,muchofRwandasoriginalrainforestwasreducedtoisolatedpatches,duetoevergrowingdemandforsubsistencefarmingplotsandforestresources.Ofthoseforestremnants,Nyungwewasthelargest,butwassteadilylosinggroundaroundits edges.

In1933,theBelgiancolonialadministrationdeclareditaforestreserve,LaForetNaturelledeNyungwe,whileitstillcovered1,140square kilometers. By the 1970s, it was clear that encroachments on the forest were continuing at an alarming rate. During the early administration of the Rwandan government, and continuing into the 1980s, buffer zones of trees were planted around much of the perimeter north of the current Huye Rusizi tarmac road. The plantations served as a visible boundary and were meant to lessen the need for wood from the forest.

In the late 1970s and throughout the 1980s, Nyungwe began to attract the attention of biologists and other conservationists. They were surprised by the wealth of plant and animal species, some new to science, but also alarmed at the rate of ongoing destruction. Gold mining, in particular, was responsible for stripping great swaths of forest along streams. Nyungwes status as a reserve still permitted access to some forest resources, including gold and was inadequate protection from the surrounding communities who sought food, medicine, building materials, sources of income, land to till, or even a place to settle, right in the forest. The policy of allowing limited access to forest resources was too difficult to control. Under increasing population pressure, Nyungwe Forest Reserve had lost nearly 15% of its area mostly lower altitude forest to smallholder agriculture, since being declared Crown Land. Two new areas, Pindura and Karamba, even sprang up to serve the mining community within the reserve.

In 1985, WCS began work to better understand and protect Nyungwe. WCS had already played a major role, in cooperation with the Rwandan government, to protect the homeland of the gorillas in Volcanoes National Park. Together, at Nyungwe, they formed a

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partnershipProjetdeConservationdelaForetdeNyungwe(PCFN),whichcontinuestothisday.Long-termresearchandtrainingprograms were initiated, primate groups habituated for tourism, and trails developed in the Uwinka area with the assistance of the US Peace Corps. The business centers in the Park at Pindura and Karamba were removed in 1989, and ultimately gold mining was abolished. In2004,theentireareaofNyungwewasdeclaredanationalparkincludingthetwonon-contiguoussmallforestsofCyamudongo,andGisakura. Today, the number of visitors is growing steadily and Nyungwes future looks bright. In 2006, USAID began its support for ecotourism and biodiversity conservation in Nyungwe National Park through its Destination Nyungwe Project (DNP). Continued to date, the project helped position Nyungwe as a tourism destination by creating additional trails, establishing a new campground, building a canopy walkway and an interpretation center, and training park guides. DNP also helped create economic incentives for local communities surrounding the park to help preserve the Parks biodiversity.

Nyungwe is in the westernmost of the two main divisions of the Great Rift Valley, the western section often referred to as the Albertine Rift. It extends from Lake Albert to Lake Tanganyika. The Rift has many sizeable mountains and huge lakes which drain west into the Congo River system or east and north into the Nile River system. The Albertine Rift, in addition to having dramatic landscapes, is noted for its unusually high number of endemic species of fauna and flora. In Nyungwe there are more than 1,000 species of plants over200speciesoftreesand248speciesoforchidandmorearebeingfoundeachyear.Atleast85mammalspeciesarefoundinNyungweincluding13kindsofprimates,andnearly280speciesofbirds,10%ofwhichareendemic.AlthoughNyungweisatitshearta rainforest, the biodiversity of the park is even further enriched by other landscapes including swamps, marshes, bamboo thicket, heath communities, open woodland and many microhabitats.

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PARk inFORmAtiOnNyungweoffersvisitorsover130kmofbeautifulhikingtrailsto suit all ages and abilities. In addition to the trails within the park, the surrounding area boasts two tea factory tours, a community walk, and a tour to a local village. For all of the activities within the park including the two isolated forests of Cyamudongo and Gisakura tourists are accompanied by very knowledgeable and well-trained guides from theRDB. Bookings can usually be made on arrival in the park but, especially in the high season, booking in advance is recommended.

tOuRist REcEPtiOn cEntERs in nyungWE nAtiOnAl PARk(Officehoursare7:00AM5:00PM,sevendaysaweek.)

Bookings can be made at any of these offices in person but try to make them in advance at RDB reservation center in Kigali (see above) before you set off for the park in the high season. All three Reception Centers (Kitabi, Uwinka & Gisakura) sell a variety of souvenirs and refreshments. There are camping, canteen, and toilet facilities at all three Reception Centers.

cOntAct inFORmAtiOnRwanda Development Board Reservation CenterBoulevard de la Revolution # 1POBox905Kigali, RwandaPhone:(250)576514,573396Fax: (250) 576515Email: [email protected]: www.rwandatourism.com

Reservations can be madeMonday Friday, 7:00 AM 5:00 PM,Saturdays and Sundays, 8:00 AM 2:00 PM.Park fees are posted on RDBs website.The RDB Tourism website also has links to information about public holidays, park bookings, transportation, tour operators, and accommodation, including in Huye and Rusizi.

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This is the headquarters for Nyungwe National Park and is located on the left of the Huye Rusizi Road, just before the main entrance to the park.

This reception center is centrally located within the park and the starting point for many of the Parks trails. The overlook is accessed from the parking lot by a flight of stairs. The overlook was renovated in 2009-2010as part ofUSAIDsDestinationNyungweProject and includes an interpretation center andcanteen in addition to the reception center.

This reception center lies just outside the western entrance to the park, on the same property as the Gisakura Guest House & WCS headquarters. Look for the WCS sign on the right approximately 2km from the park exit.

AccOmmODAtiOnsNyungwe is rapidly gaining in popularity. A new lodge opened in 2010 and additional accommodations are under development or planned.Makereservationsinadvance,especiallyforJune-Septemberandonpublicholidays.

The Nyungwe Forest Lodge, situated in the Gisakura Tea Plantation, provides a range of hotel room accommodations (www.mantiscollection.com). There are hotels in three towns within a reasonable drive of the park: Huye (2 hours from Uwinka), Rusizi (1.5 hours from Uwinka), and Nyamagabe (1.5 hours from Uwinka). For information, contact tour operators, or visit the RDB website, www.rwandatourism.com

Kitabi

Uwinka Overlook

Gisakura

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cAmPsitEs OPtiOns nEAR thE mAin ROAD in thE PARkThis is probably the most convenient location for campers who plan to hike in the Uwinka area. It has two secluded campsites with pleasant picnic gazebos, a toilet and a shower. Firewood and water can be supplied upon request. The canteen sells snacks and soft drinks but campers should arrive with a hearty supply of food and water.

WilDERnEss cAmPsitEsFor the intrepid, outdoorsy traveler or those who want to experience nightfall and early mornings in the park, arrangements can be madeatanytouristreceptioncentertoreserveatrail-sidecampsiteandanovernightguide.Thesecampsitesarebasic,asyouwouldwant them to be in the wilderness. Your guide will help you to arrange firewood but it is advisable to bring your own water on all overnight treks. Supplies for camping must be provided by the tourist (sleeping bags, tents etc). And youll need to pack in (and out) your own food and drinks.

Summit of Mt.BiguguThere is one campsite that can accommodate four people near the summit (2950 m) of Mount Bigugu, Nyungwes highest peak and hometotheparkscommunicationsfacility.Theone-waydistancetothesummitis6.6km.Bringyourownwater.

Summit of Mt. NgabweThereisonecampsite,withashelterandpittoilet,onthesummitofMountNgabwe(2763M).Theviewsareexcellentperfectforsunrise,sunsetandspectaculardisplaysofthenightsky.Distance,one-wayisabout2kmtothesummit.Bringyourownwater.

Uwinka Overlook

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Congo-Nile Divide TrailThreecampsitesweredeveloped in2009toaccommodatemulti-daytrips.Thecampsitesare14km,28km,and36.5kmfromthetrailheadonthemainroad.SeedescriptionoftheCongo-NileDivideTrailformoredetails.

OthER PlAnnED cAmPsitEsAdditional camping sites to appeal to a range of tourists (campsites to catered tented camps) are planned for Cyamundongo chimpanzee forest and two sites along the main road Karamba to the west of Uwinka and Gasare between Kitabi and Uwinka.

gEtting tO nyungWEMost visitors arrive in the park with tour operators, who tend to have large, comfortable vehicles. If youre driving yourself, set out from KigaliontheHuyeRoadheadingsouthforabouttwohours.OnceyouapproachHuyetowncenterjustbeforeyouhitthecitycenter,head west on the Rusizi Road and continue along the winding road another hour and a half before reaching the park headquarters at Kitabi.OthertransportoptionsforgettingtoNyungweincludehiringyourowncarortaxi,hoppinginajam-packedmutatu,orflyingto Kamembe, half an hour from Gisakura by taxi.

Tourists who arrive in the park without their own transportation may get information about public taxis and local buses at the RDB Reception Centers.

Kitabi-Gisakura RoadTheroadthroughtheparkisopenforpassage24hoursday,althoughaplaniscurrentlyunderwaytoclosethisroadatdark.ContactRDB for the latest update.

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RDb guiDEsExperienced park guides accompany visitors on all hikes and excursions, including Nyungwes newest attraction, the canopy walkway on the Igishigishigi Trail. Guides set a good pace for visitors and make the activities more rewarding with their knowledge of natural history, conservation, and traditional lore. When making reservations ahead of time, be sure to let the reservation agent know if you have any special requirements if you are an avid birder, only speak English or need to take the trails at a slower pace so that they can appropriately match you with your guide.

climAtEAlthough only a few degrees south of the equator with the sun rising and setting close to 6AM & PM each day, the elevations at Nyungwemoderatetheheatofthesunanditcangetsurprisinglychilly!Daytimetemperaturesrangefromthe40stomid70sFahrenheit(10 25 Centigrade). Nights are cool and can sometimes dip close to the freezing point. And since its a rainforest, its always damp.

Bring layers of clothing to regulate your temperature and keep you from getting soaked. Raingear should be carried even on the clearest, sunniest mornings. Some trails are in the open but travelers should always wear sun protection.

There are two rainy seasons, the shorter one is from September to November, and the longer from February to May, but rain can occur onanydayoftheyear.ThedriesttimesoftheyeararefromJunetoAugustandfrommid-Decembertomid-January.Althoughitiseasy

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to appreciate clear, sunny weather, a rainstorm in the forest can be a rewarding experience. While the rain, wind, and sometimes hail can be pleasant to watch, the best part is when the rain stops. The forest slowly comes back to life. Frogs you may not have knownweretheresuddenlystartsingingnon-stop,thebirdsstarthopping around the branches and take off in flight, the sound of rain dies away, and is replaced by the drip, drip, drip of trees. The sun reappears and the whole rainforest glitters with countless tiny water droplets. Welcome to Africas Cloud Forest!

FOODThere are no grocery shops in or near the park so consider bringing plenty of trail snacks, or all your food supplies if you plan tocamp.Therearewell-stockedshopsinKigali,Huyeandothermajor towns. Some staples like rice and fresh produce can be purchased in the village of Gisakura.

WAtERWater can be purchased in large bottles at the three reception centers or boiled if you have access to a stove. To be safe, consider

bringing your own portable water filter or purification tablets, and sturdy water bottles.

FiElD guiDEsFor a list of recommended references including nature field guides see the bibliography near the end of this book.

tRAil cOnDitiOns There is surprisingly little erosion on Nyungwes extensive trail network because the soil on most paths contains so much clay. Trails and bridges are well maintained and have been designed to provide an enjoyable and safe hiking experience. However, trail conditions can deteriorate quickly with heavy rains. To ensure a rewarding hike in inclement weather, guides will provide walking sticks and apply their experience and knowledge of the trails to keep you on your feet and not on your backside.

Many trails can be hiked as a complete loop, with the advantage thatthereissomethingnewtoseeallormostoftheway.Other

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trailsreturnbythesameroute,andstillothersfinishsomedistanceawayfromtheoriginaltrailhead,wherepick-upmightbearrangedin advance.

AcclimAtiOnVisitors coming from low altitudes may need time to adjust to the high elevations of Nyungwe, or Rwanda in general. Even the most fit traveler should not be surprised at being winded by simply climbing a flight of stairs, especially if she has just landed in Kigali.

To acclimate, it is best to start with shorter hikes or those with less altitude gain. Walking very slowly, say at a museum pace, will extend the length of time one can walk comfortably between rest stops. Tourists traveling to Nyungwe may want to read up on altitude related illnesses and acclimatization before planning their trip.

nOtEs On thE FEAtuREs OF this guiDETrail maps, distances, altitudes, cumulative elevation gains and elevation profiles are based on GPS data. Using a GPS in forest, on steep-sidedmountains and in narrow ravines, andwith the changing air pressure duringmany hikes, the information is relativelyaccurate but should still be considered an estimate. Due to the scale of the maps compared to the actual trails, minor trail details, such as short switchbacks, are too small to be featured on the map.

The elevation profile diagrams represent the literal ups and downs of elevation on the trail, rather than a profile of the lay of the land. For example, what may appear to be a flat surface on the profile might actually represent a level trail contouring along the middle of a steep mountainside. What may appear to be a sharp little peak on the profile, where one would expect to have a great view, may be in reality, a climb through enclosed forest over an obstacle on a hillside, and back down the other side.

Kitabi

Ruzuki Trail

Gisakura

Butare Cyangugu

Congo Nile Divide Trail

Bigugu Trail

Pindura R

oad

Ngabwe Trail

Kamiranzovu Marsh

Karamba Trail

Isumo Trail

Kamiranzovu Trail

Uwinka Trails:Imbaraga TrailUmugote TrailUmuyove TrailIrebero TrailIgishigishigi TrailBuhoro TrailUwinka Trail

Muzimu Trail

Muzimu Trail

= Rwanda Office of Tourism and National Parks (ORTPN) Reception

NyungweNational Park Revision 2 May 27, 2008

Road

to C

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Kitabi

Ruzuki Trail

Gisakura

Butare Cyangugu

Congo Nile Divide Trail

Bigugu Trail

Pindura R

oad

Ngabwe Trail

Kamiranzovu Marsh

Karamba Trail

Isumo Trail

Kamiranzovu Trail

Uwinka Trails:Imbaraga TrailUmugote TrailUmuyove TrailIrebero TrailIgishigishigi TrailBuhoro TrailUwinka Trail

Muzimu Trail

Muzimu Trail

= Rwanda Office of Tourism and National Parks (ORTPN) Reception

NyungweNational Park Revision 2 May 27, 2008

Road

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yang

ugu

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tHe trails

The trails in the Park are presented in three geographical groups: trails between Kitabi and Uwinka; trails that begin at Uwinka; and trails between Uwinka and Gisakura.east of uwiNka

Most visitors will arrive from Kigali at the eastern entrance to the Park at Kitabi. The trails east of Uwinka feature ridgeline walking, ascents of Nyungwes highest peaks, and fabulous vistas of deep valleys, mountaintops and mountain ridges as far as you can see. The trails featured in this section are drier than trails to the west and in some places, much colder. Most of the forest fires in the past have occurred in this area of the Park and as a result, visitors

passthroughextensiveareasofpost-fireemergentvegetationincludingferns,shrubsandpioneertreespecies.Thegemofthe

easternregionoftheParkistherecentlycompletedCongo-NileDivideTrail,amulti-dayhikealongridgesandmountain

summits, with a spur trail to the source of the White Nile.

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Distance:13.2kmroundtriptosummit (viewpoint beyond summit adds0.3kmeachway)

Average time: 6 hours

Rating: difficult

Elevationlowpoint:2367m

Elevation high point: 2950 m

Cumulative gain: 666 m from trailhead to summit

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Guides at Uwinka turn their gaze to Mt. Bigugu, the highest summit in the park, to predict the afternoons weather. Hikers who like to take on the highest peaks or biggest challenges will put this mountainonthetopoftheirlist.BirderscomeheretoseetheRed-collared Mountain-babbler among others. While Bigugu Trail israted as difficult, the return trip is downhill.

Bigugu is a great mountain for enjoying the incredible array of flora offered in Nyungwe. Ascend the summit in the dry season and you may be rewarded with three fiery blossoms to light your way to the top--thelarge,conical,orangeflowersoftheorchid,Disa robusta, red-orangeflowersofRed-hotPokerandthescarletflowersoftheendemic Nyungwe Jewelweed. The latter two might look familiar as theyve found their way into gardens across European and North America. Also special to Bigugu is the beautiful little Lobelia petiolata,whichoccursonlybetweenelevationsof2,400and3,000meters. When Sericostachys scandens, an invasive indigenous weed, bloomsevery14to15years,themountainappearswhite fromsomany flowers. Your guide will tell you about the significance of this plant in traditional lore and honey production. Scientists are working to ascertain the possibility of reintroducing the elephant extinct from Nyungwe since the late 1990s as a natural method of controlling the Sericostachys as it is one of their favorite snacks.

Butare - Cyangugu Road

BIGUGU TRAIL

Bigugu trail

700m

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Thetrailbeginsbyclimbingsteps,andgains150mofelevationinthefirsthalf-kmofsteepmountainside.At this point, a mossy, old roadbed appears which contours around shallow prominences on the long shoulder of the mountain. This section of trail, being relatively flat and very pretty, provides some of the most pleasant three km of hiking in the park and is a welcome relief after the steep start. Eventually the trailleavestheoldroadforamoderategradienttothebroad,heath-covereddomeofthesummit.Thisispartly occupied by a radio relay station, staffed by RDB which has an important role in keeping trackers, guides and rangers in touch so that the chimps are tracked and poachers are kept out of the forest.

From the summit, you are rewarded for the climb with a fantastic overview of the whole park. If the weather behaves, you can see the shimmer of Lake Kivu beckoning in the distance, the hills and islands of the Democratic Republic of Congo, and the extension of Nyungwes forest in Kabira National Park in Burundi. If youre lucky, you may even see the proud summits of Volcanoes National Park, home to the majestic mountain gorilla.

Nottoofarfromthesummitthereisabenchforawell-deservedpicnic,overlookingBandavillage,apeninsula of densely populated and cultivated land, surrounded by buffer zone and park on three sides. Your guide may even be able to point out his own fields and home. The ridge beyond Banda is Kigogo Mountain and Gisakura is hidden just on the other side. You may just want to call Bigugu home for the evening. If so, youll find a campsite just below the summit.

The lower slopes of Bigugu are a home range for chimpanzees. When theyre busy feeding on their favorite food trees at the higher elevations, it becomes easier to observe them since the trees diminish in size with altitude. Not far below the summit, the trail leaves the rainforest for shrub zone on rocky soil. This vegetation community is also typical of other summits in the park, including Mts Muzimu, Ngabwe and Ruhindu.

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Distance:42.2km(includingspurtotheSourceoftheNile)

Estimated time: three days

Rating: Difficult

Elevation,lowpoint:2366m

Elevation, high point: 2878 m

Cumulative ascent: 1765 m (traveling north to south)

Source of the Nile


CONGONILE DIVIDE TRAIL

Congo-Nile Divide trail

5km

The Congo-Nile Divide Trail is a spectacularmulti-day trek that winds along the ridge thatseparates two of the worlds greatest river basins, the Congo and the Nile. This challenging hike allows you to be part of the legend of the search for the Source of the White Nile, take in stunning views of the wild wonders of Nyungwe, and fill your lungs with the clean mountain air day after day.

Running north and south through the heart of Nyungwe National Park is the continental divide that separates the Congo and the Nile basins. Rain falling to the west of the divide flows by way of Lake Kivu and Lake Tanganyika into the mighty Congo River en route to the Atlantic Ocean.Rainfallinginchesawaytotheeastflowsby way of Lake Victoria into the Nile en route to the Mediterranean Sea.

In 2007, the RDB opened a wilderness trail along the continental ridge between the northern end of NyungweNationalParktothemainHuye-RusiziRoad. At 42.2 km in length, the trail weaves


between the Nile and Congo sides of the divide and includes a short spur to the Source of the White Nile. In several places, hikers can literally straddle the divide, with one foot in each watershed. The trail crosses dozens of prominences, offering many beautiful views. Along the way, youll pass through bracken fields, secondary forest, bamboo forest, ericaceous shrub, marsh and primary rainforest. The many open habitats support a rich variety of birds and colorful wildflowers. The hike includes the panoramic summit of Mount Yahahi, and the six peaks on Mount Ruhindu, resulting in a cumulative ascent of more than 1765 m. The steeper sections are well graded with switchbacks but this is a long and arduous trail. Most of the trail is above 2,500 m.

TheCongo-NileDivideTrailinvolvesamulti-daytrekandRDBrecommendsdoingitfromnorthtosouth,withthreeovernightstops.This schedule provides a wonderful opportunity to enjoy the serene beauty of the Nyungwe wilderness, while getting plenty of exercise. For hikers accustomed to long treks, or who are pressed for time, the route can be completed with one or two overnight stops.

TheCongo-NileDividetrailheadisreachedonaroughdirtroadnearthemountainvillageofMusarara.Thefirst2kmofthehikeclimbs and then descends at a gentle grade, through a buffer zone of pines and acacia. These were planted by the government to separate areas of cultivation outside the park from the forest within. Hikers may hear the voices of children, coming from high up the trunks of pine trees, where they harvest dead branches for firewood.

At 2.0 km from the trailhead, the trail enters the park and natural forest vegetation begins, accompanied by a dramatic increase in birdlife.Thenon-nativepineforestisadesertbycomparison.Atabout4.5kmfromthetrailhead,hikersreachthejunctionwithaspurtrailtoasmallspringinasedgemarshthathasbeendocumentedasKantsSourceoftheWhiteNile,2,538mabovesealevel.The spur to the Source is a gentle walk about a 0.6 km round trip from the junction. Camp 1 is about 0.25 km past the junction; hikers could do the spur on the way to camp, or settle in at camp first and retrace their steps.

Continuing on from Camp 1, the trail follows the divide in a continual series of undulating hills, alternating between regenerating burn zoneswithwide-openviews,andcoolmountain forestsdrapedwithepiphytesand tangled lianas.Therearemanyfineviews

24 east of uwiNka

to enjoy along the way. The more open landscapes once had forest cover,whichwaskilledoffbyanenormousdry-seasonfirein1997,apparently set by poachers who were smoking out bee hives to gather wild honey.

Camp 2, at the base of Mt. Yahahi, is reached at about 8 km from Camp 1, making this an easy day with plenty to see and a chance to rest up before hitting the harder parts of the trail.

From Camp 2 the trail ascends the summit Mt Yahahi (2680 m), one of the highlights of the trip. Youll want to stop here for a long rest to drink in the extraordinary panoramic views of both watersheds. The trail then descends the far side of Mt Yahahi and continues its pattern of climbing and descending numerous minor hills. Some relief is offered when the trail temporarily coincides with a section of an old road, which used to connect the districts of Ruzizi and Musebeya. It is still used by villagers and their cows. Hikers who prefer to spend just one or two nights in the wild may exit the Congo-NileDivideTrailatthispointbyturningrighttoMusebeya,aboutanhourtotheeast,wherepick-upcanbearrangedaheadoftime.

When the trail leaves the old road, hikers enter some of the finest wilderness of the entire trek and very soon after starting on this

east of uwiNka 25

section, one of the steepest ascents. The trail climbs more than 300m in 2 km, on a long series of switchbacks, up the nearly 7km long ridge of Mt. Ruhindu. On the ridge, youll encounterlarge communities of small-leaved, ericaceous shrub vegetation,and a long section of trail dominated by bamboo. The latter is not encounteredonanyothertrailcurrentlyinuseinthepark.Violet-pinkjewelweeddominatesthegroundcover.Camp3liesinadeepcol between summits four and five. The main road and southern trailheadarestill14kmdistant,leavingalonghardtrekforthelastday on the trail.

The final leg of the trek begins with an ascent of the last two peaks on Mt. Ruhindu, the highest peak reaching 2888 m. From here there are stunning views first to the Nile side of the divide, and then to the Congo side, with the majestic peaks of Mt. Muzimu to the west, and Mt. Bigugu to the southwest. The hard work is soon over and the remaining 12 km are gratifyingly mostly down hill. Hikers weave in and out primary vegetation, secondary forest and increasing amounts of open bracken savanna with tree skeletons. Many people believe bracken fern, an indigenous invasive plant species, impedes forest regeneration, but it is actually a natural part of a lengthy succession of the forest ecosystem. Pioneer tree species, are starting to enter the landscape and RDB is making headway by

26 coNgo-Nile divide trailaNd tHe source of tHe Nile

reintroducing certain tree species to the mix. Isolated pockets of moist, shady ground serve as refugia for rainforest herbs and shrubs, waiting for the original forest to expand again.

The last 7.5 km of trail are very gently graded until you reach the Huye Rusizi Road. Uwinka Tourist Reception Center is about 17 km to the west.

Inhistoricalterms,anevenmoreimportantfeatureofthelandscapeisthattheNyungwesegmentoftheCongo-Niledividehasanunpretentiouslittlemarsh,fromwhichflowsatinyspringthatwasdocumentedin1898asthelong-soughtSourceoftheWhiteNile.The Source of the White Nile has been mired in controversy for centuries going back to ancient Egypt, ancient Greece, through the age of great explorers and occupied legends such as Richard Francis Burton, Dr. David Livingstone and Henry Morton Stanley. In fact, it was on his journey to find the source of the Nile that Stanley uttered those famous words, Dr. Livingstone, I presume?

It is still under dispute, but in 2006 the Ascend of the Nile Expedition traveled over 7,000km looking for the farthest source of the Nile onlytofindit14kmfromthemarshKandtidentified.(ItispossibletovisitthenewsourceatGisovubyreservationthroughRDB.)

Walking along this challenging trail gives you a chance to be part of the legend.

28 MuziMu trail

Distance: 5.2 km (round trip to the second summit)

Time:3.5hours

Rating: moderate

Elevation low point: 2516 m


Cumulativegain:362m(one-way)

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This beautiful trail lies in remote northeastern Nyungwe. From Gisakura, the drive alone would be a four hour round trip. From the Gisovu trailhead, the Muzimu trail is reached after a 20 minute drive through a buffer zone of pine and eucalyptus plantations. This relatively short, easy hike climbs through pine forest to a ridge of rounded, exposed summits.

The trail begins in the forested buffer zone and soon exits out into the open. Those familiar with other trails in the park may immediately notice the absence of large rainforest trees. Instead, the rocky, shallow soils support a small-leaved heath community with occasional taller,large-leaf vegetation in pockets of deeper soil.Muchofthe trail is quite open and thus has many spectacular views. It is worth looking over your shoulder at regular intervals to see the many fine views, which only get better as you ascend. The lack of big canopy trees makes it easier to see some of Nyungwes fantastic bird species and there is an unusually greatvarietyofsun-tolerantwildflowers.Pinesareoccasionallyencounteredalongthetrailalthoughtheparkhasaprogramtoremovepine and other exotic trees. Bracken fern, while native, is a pest of the trail. Dont hesitate to trample it. You may see signs of civet cats (scat) and francolin (digging) in the path.

Atabout0.5kmfromthetrailhead,thereisaspurtotheright,with270-degreeviewsoftheforest.At1.6km,hikersreachthefirstandhighestoftwosummits,witha360-degreepanoramicviewofthemajesticNyungweNationalPark.ThemassiveMt.Biguguisto

Buffer Zone Road

MUZIMU TRAIL

Muzimu trail

200m

30 MuziMu trail

thesouthandMt.Ruhindu,ontheCongo-NileDivide,istothesoutheast.LakeKivuandIdjwiIsland in the DRC are to the northwest.

The trail continues past the first summit, then down to a small, forested mountain pass, followed byanearly50meterascenttothesecondsummit.Onbothsummits,theplantsareonlyjustaboveknee-highandeithersummitwouldbeanidealpicnicspotindryweather.

Among the flowers to be seen along the trail are heaths, blue and yellow Commelina species, morning glories, wild geraniums, yellow starflowers, dolls powderpuff, yellow Senecio, ground and epiphytic orchids, a small pink flowered shrub and aromatic everlastings.

The descent of Muzimu can be pure joy. Most of the uphill work on this trail is done, the traction isexcellentandnowthegrandioseviewsspreadout in front.Ashikers re-enter thebuffer zone, footsteps muffled in drifts of pine needles, you may notice how eerily silent and still the monoculture of the pine plantation is by comparison with the rich diversity of the park.

On the way to or from Muzimu, visitors may travel close to the Kivu lakeshore. In clearweather, the strikingly handsome peaks of Volcanoes National Park, world famous for it thriving populationofmountaingorillas,canbeseentothenorth.Inthenear-distance,youcanseetheextent of the tree plantation buffer zone, the long, winding roads that must be negotiated to get here, and the steep hillside cultivation of mountain villages. Some garden plots are so tilted that it is a wonder that villagers can hoe, weed, and harvest them, without losing their balance!

MuziMu trail 31

32 NgaBwe trail

Distance:4.7km

Estimatedtime:3hours

Rating: moderate


Elevationhighpoint:2730m

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NgaBwe trail 33

This beautiful trail on the eastern edge of Nyungwe National Park offers beautiful views, fine birding, and a chance to see primates. The mountain is a convenient hiking or picnic destination for residents and visitors in the greater Huye region. For visitors new to Nyungwe, this is a great place to test lung capacity before blithely descending those fabulous ravine or mountain trails deeper in the park. Onthe way out of the park at the end of your visit to Nyungwe, you could still climb Ngabwe in a few hours and arrive in Kigali well before dinner. Hikers with experience in Nyungwe will appreciate two special advantages this trail offers the return trip is mostly downhill rather than up, and the traction is good,duetosandiersoil.Otheradvantagesincludea surprising variety of vegetation communities (given the short distances traveled), and a spectacularly placed camping and picnic site with a toilet, at the summit.

There are two main trails leading to the summit and it is recommended that hikers use one to ascend and the other to return, for variety ofscenery.Takingthecounter-clockwiseroutemeansyouhitthesteepestsectionforthedescent.

Thetrailbegins200mdownashortsideroad,locatedabout3kmfromtheparkentranceontheKitabiside.Youllseeawatertankonthe right that supplies water to the Kitabi tea factory; the side road continues briefly to the left; and the trail climbs up a ridge between them.


ENGABWE TRAIL

Ngabwe trail

300m

34 NgaBwe trail

The forest ismixed, withmature forest species and secondary species. There are also strangler figs, including a particularly well-developed one with a waterberry tree as the host or mother tree. While there are fine, gnarled old trees here, you wont see many with the same tall, straight trunks like those near Uwinka. In general, the eastern part of the park is less biologically rich than the western side, but theyre both beautiful in their own right. The trail passes in and out of several zones of shrubs on shallow soil and exposed bedrock.

Onanopenshouldertoonesideoftheridge,thesummitcomesintoview.Fromhereitiseasytoseewherethedarkergreenforestvegetationabruptlystopsandtheheathbegins--theheathcommunityispalergreen,morefinelytexturedandshorter.Ifyouenjoyflowers,dontforgettolookupinthetrees--it issomewhateasiertoseeairplants,birdsandprimatesbecausethetreesherearemuch shorter. Monkey species include mountain, blue, and Angolan black and white colobus, the latter is being tracked by a team in theprocessofhabituatingthem.Mangabeysandchimpanzeesmayalsobespotted.Black-frontedduikers,asmallmammalrelatedtotheantelope, feed on the grasses higher up.

At the summit there are two benches facing different directions, and a camp. The first bench, off to the left, has a sweeping view to the east, looking out of the park, past the buffer zone of eucalyptus, pine and tea, to villages and their patchwork cultivation plots. The second bench, one minute further down the trail, looks down over rainforest on the hillside to an area of regenerating forest, which resembles savanna. It is recovering from the big fire of the 1997 dry season, which may have been set by honey collectors. Burundi is hiddenbehindalargedistantridge.Swoopingpast,betweenthevisitorandthelandscape,arered-rumpedswallows,whichareoftenassociated with rocky outcrops.

Along the eastern route back, there are several small gaps in the trees for views to the south and east. You meet a trail junction half waydownthemountainandifyoureupforit,youcancontinueonan8-hourwalktotheKitabiteaplantation,orbeginonthattrailbut branch off to reach park headquarters instead. At the junction there is also a trail to the left which heads up the mountain to the summit of Mount Ngabwe and back down through colobus territory and ending in Uwasenkoko. Before reaching the end of the

NgaBwe trail 35

trail, eucalyptus saplings, with their medicinally aromatic leaves, begin to appear, mixed in with weeds and regenerating indigenous vegetation. Soon the trail crosses a brook and climbs back up the other side of a small, open valley. An increasing number of invasive eucalyptus saplings are seen, in addition to pioneer saplings of the umbrella tree. Soon a sand quarry comes into view, ahead. It is on the far side of the road from the end of the trail, and 1.2 km closer to the main gate than where the hike started. The quarry is a good place tomeetapick-upvehicle.

36 rukuzi trail

Distance: 9.1 km, one way

Estimated time: 5 hours

Rating: Difficult

Elevation, low point: 2175 m

Elevation,highpoint:2395m

Cumulative ascent: 409m (from eastto west)

RUKUZI TRaIl

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rukuzi trail 37

This gorgeous trail was created to facilitate chimpanzee viewing, but is superb for hiking even if the chimps are not around. While most trails in the park wander through forest with occasional stretches of open view; this trail is characterized by the reverse. The nearly continuous vistas on one side of the trail, combined with the mountainside steeply falling away on the other may give the hiker a slight sensation of being airborne. Its an exhilarating hike!

In 2010, construction of a canopy walkway was completed. This attraction has been integrated into the Igishigishigi Trail and can be added to the hikes on the Imbaraga and Umuyove Trails.

Rukuzi Trail begins at Pindura along an old dirt track which used to be the main road in the park. Great views begin as soon as you set foot on the trail. Look left to see Lake Kivu and Idjwi Island in the DRC. In the near distance, down below, lies thewell-watered valley of Banda village.Its cultivated fields sweep up the lower deforested slopes to the buffer zone of conifer and eucalyptus half way up the mountainside. Althoughthetraildoesnotreachthevillage,itapproachescloseenoughsothathikerscanseewhatlookslikewell-protectedforestandtheadjacentcommunityco-existingharmoniously.Thetreeplantationsbetweenthemserveasaprotectivebarrierbetweenvillageactivity and the pristine rainforest above. Buffer zones, mainly around the northern half of Nyungwe, were planted by the forestry department in the 1970s and 1980s. They help delineate the boundaries and reduce dependence on forest resources.

Umuvumu trail


Rangiro Road

Pindura Road

RUKUZI TRAIL

Rukuzi trail

500m

38 rukuzi trail

At 0.7 km the trail departs left to descend the ridge, reaching the junction with the Umuvumu Trail at about 2 km. The latter, used by primate trackers and for chimp viewing, can be followed as far as Bigugu Mountain to the east or to Banda village in the valley below. Rukuzi trail, instead, continues descending the ridge, then follows a gentle series of ups and downs, in and out of a number of minor ravines on the northwest flank of the mountain. Several of these ravines have fine colonies of giant tree ferns and one in particular has a large enough stand along the trail that you may feel like youve wandered back into the age of the dinosaurs. Another ravine has a steepheadwallimpressivelycarpetedwithlarge,magenta-flowered jewelweeds.

If you dont see chimps along the trail, you may hear or see signs of them, including nests, scat and chewed fruit. Rukuzi Trail is close enough to the boundary that hikers may hear childrens voices carrying up the mountainside. It provides the best views of the village. Many of the guides, rangers, trackers, trail maintenance crew and other staff live in Banda village. These local residents with jobs in the park become protective of the forest and are known to discourage other villagers from breaking

rukuzi trail 39

the rules. The incursions are not one-sided. Baboonsand vervet monkeys, in particular, raid villagers crops, resulting in less time at school for children who are assigned to guard the fields.

Rukuzi Trail exits on Rangiro Road where hikers can be met by vehicle, or where you can walk to the Uwinka Visitor Center in about 2 km on a steep grade. To do this, turn left on Rangiro Road and then right on the Huye Rusizi Road.

40 uwiNka overlook

uwiNka overlook

In2009-2010,theDestinationNyungweProject,withfinancialsupport from the United States Agency for International Development,renovatedtheUwinkaOverlook,theprincipalReception Center in Nyungwe. The centerpiece of the renovation

is the Interpretation Center, which formerly housed Uwinkas

Reception Center.

From the Uwinka parking lot, visitors climb a flight of stairs

to the overlook, a flat hill housing the Reception Center, the

interpretation center and a canteen and handicrafts center. To the

visitors right as they reach the overlook, is the Reception Center,

where a Park Guide greets visitors, provides an overview of trails, attractions, and facilities, answers questions, and arranges guided

hikes. Restrooms are located at the rear of the reception center.

To the visitors near left is the Interpretation Center, reached by climbing a few steps. The Interpretation Center uses eight display panels

and a centrally positioned tree of life to tell the story of Nyungwe National Park and the people who work in the Park and live in

uwiNka overlook 41

surrounding communities. The eight display panels are arranged

in pairs of window bays and consoles, with each pair focused on

one of four themes: the people of Nyungwe; biodiversity in the

Park; Nyungwes importance in supplying water; and Nyungwe,

a mountain rainforest. All of the display panels include text in

Kinyarwandan, English, and French.

42 uwiNka trails Network

uwiNka trails Network

Uwinka is about halfway between the eastern and western entrances of the Park and the trailhead for several hikes in Nyungwesspectacularhighmountaincloudforest.UwinkaisthehighestpointontheHuye-RusiziRoadalltrailsheaddownhillalongridgesthendipdownintoluxuriantandmoisture-ladenvalleys.Thetrailsshowcasemajesticmahoganytreesand other tropical giants, and a vast number of flowering plants including orchids. There are waterfalls along two of the trails, and you

may be lucky enough to see Blue or Mountain monkeys and hear the song of the great blue turaco. In 2010 the Park will unveiled a new

interpretationcenterinUwinkaOverlook,amust-seestopbeforeorafteryourhike.

uwiNka trails Network 43

44 BuHoro trail

Distance: 1.8km

Estimated time: 1 1/2 hours

Rating: easy

Elevationlowpoint:2386

Elevationhighpoint:2450

Cumulative gain: 116 m

Buhoro Trail

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BuHoro trail 45

Whether youve brought an energetic five year-old withyou or your grandfather with his arthritic hip, you can manage this lovely little stroll through the forest. Thus the kinyarwandan name for the trail means slow. The shortest hike at Uwinka, and one of the two shortest in the park, it features exceptional views, big trees, good birding and pretty wildflowers. It is an excellent introduction to Nyungwe.

ThetrailbeginsatthenorthendoftheUwinkaOverlook.This is the starting point for all of the Uwinka trails with the exception of the Umugote Trail that starts on the south sideoftheHuye-RusiziRoad.Takeafewminutestoenjoythe view to the Uwinka Ridge from the trailhead and listen to the Park guides introduce the Park and the hike. After dropping down a flight of stairs, the trail follows a series of switchbacks until it connects to the junction on a relatively flat section of the Buhoro-Imbaraga Trail. Turn left turning right will take you to the Igishigishigi, Imbaraga, and Umuyove Trails.

For about half the trail it traverses the headwall of a large ravine, the watershed for the two biggest waterfalls seen on the Imbaraga Trail. There are two benches from which

Imbaraga trail

Imbaraga trail


BUHOROTRAIL

Buhoro trail

46 BuHoro trail

to enjoy the long distance views out to Lake Kivu and the DRC. Many visitors on this trail will see or hear at leastoneoftheparksfamousturacos,theblack-billed,the great blue and the Ruwenzori. Among the more spectacular trees to be admired on the Buhoro Trail are East African yellowwoods and Ocotea usambarensis, named after the Usambara Mountains in Tanzania. One particular Ocotea has an identification signin front of it. Look just behind it for two remarkable strangler figs. Guides can often identify the mother trees encased in them. Giant lobelias can also be found along this trail, either in bloom or with improbably tall, hollow, dried flower stalks.

Quicker than you may want to leave the forest, youll reach the second and last bench for resting and enjoying the vegetation, birds and views before the trail retreats back into closed forest. It then begins a somewhat steep ascent, relieved by several switchbacks. The trial ends at the road, where you may be met by vehicle, or walk the last half kilometer back to reception.

BuHoro trail 47

48 igisHigisHigi trail

Distance: 2.1 km, round trip


Rating: Easy




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igisHigisHigi trail 49

Would you like to view the forest from the top of the trees instead of from the forests floor? Looking for an exhilaratingwalkacrossaseriesofbridges30metersabove the ground? The Igishigishigi Trail is the trail for you.

The Igishigishigi Trail, named for the majestic giant tree ferns along the trail, was selected in 2008 as the site of a canopy walkway. This canopy walkway site was selected because it could be reached via a short, relatively easy trail in close proximity to the Uwinka Overlook. The canopy walkway is situated abouthalfway down the Igishigishigi Trail. Hikers leave the trail and cross three bridges and connect to the trail across a ravine. The canopy walkway can be planned as a short 2.1 km roundtrip hike or combined with the longer Imbaraga or Umuyove Trails.

The trail begins at the north end of the Uwinka Overlook. This is the starting point for all of theUwinkatrailswiththeexceptionoftheUmugoteTrailthatstartsonthesouthsideoftheHuye-RusiziRoad.Takeafewminutestoenjoy the view to the Uwinka Ridge from the trailhead and listen to the Park guides introduce the Park and the hike. After dropping down a flight of stairs, the trail follows a series of switchbacks until it connects to a relatively flat section of the Buhoro Trail. Turn right and continue to the junction with the Igishigishigi Trail which forks left from the main trail.

Imbaraga trail

Umuyove trail

Imbaraga andBuhoro trail


Igishigishigi trail

100m


Along this part of the trail, the birding is good, there are wildflowers year round, and hikers have a good chance of hearing and spotting numerous species of monkeys. At the first bench in a grove of scented begonias, there is a great cutaway view of the forest, where youll see all the layers from the ground to the air plant world of the upper canopy. In the latter, a rich assortment of ferns, mosses, lichens, orchids and other flowering species thrive. It is well worth examining through binoculars.

Nearby, there is a magnificent strangler fig which nearly encases an endemic Beilschmiedia rwandensis tree. Along this stretch of trail you can also see handsome examples of the umbrella tree which is sometimes cultivated in public gardens for its aesthetic branching and large leaves. Scattered along the trail, hikers may see the fallen red flowers of the welcome tree, which has a mottled trunk and odd, 45-degree-angled branching, as if conducting


a symphony. And speaking of sounds, hikers may hear the telephone-likecallofthechestnut-throatedapalis.

About 100 m beyond the first bench there is a fabulous view of Uwinka ridge. Shortly after this viewpoint, you will reach the starting point for the canopy walkway. Leave the trail to the left and climb the tower close to the trail with views of the ravine below the canopy walkway. Park Guides will talk about the construction of the canopy walkway and safety in walking across. After this orientation, you will descend from the tower and walk across the first of three bridges, ending at the top of the forest canopy at the second tower. Here, the park guides will describe the birds and monkeys that frequent the higher branches of the forest. This is a good viewing point and affords the hiker a chance to get ready for thewalkacrossthe90-meterbridgethatspanstheravine.

You will likely be hiking with other visitors and the park guides will recommend that you walk at a steady pace across the bridge to the third tower, then grab your camera and walk back out on to the bridge for photographs. From the bridge, there will be spectacular viewoftheUwinkaridgeanddeepvalleyaswellastheforestcanopyateyelevel.Lookdowntothefloor30metersbelowifyoudare.Returning to the tower, the final bridge will take you down to the trail to continue your walk.

Backonsolidground,youwillhavethreeoptionsforcontinuingyourhike.ForthosereturningtoUwinkaOverlook,reversedirectionand head downhill toward the head of the ravine. After a short distance, you will come to a solid bridge that crosses the stream in


the ravine. This is a great time for refreshments and photos of the canopy walkway high above you and looking down at the geometric patterns of the tree ferns growing along the banks of the stream. It is easy to confuse these with palm trees but they are true ferns, belonging to an ancient group of plants that are ancestral to conifers and flowering plants. After your rest, the trail will continue past the start of the canopy walkway to UwinkaOverlook.

You can also return to UwinkaOverlook via the spur trail tothe right, but you will miss the tree ferns and spectacular views from the bridge. For those hikers who plan to continue on the Imbaraga orUmuyove trails, you take the trail to the left.Ofcourse, you wont want to miss the short detour to the bridge and tree ferns. This will only take a few minutes and add a few hundred meters to your walk.

54 iMBaraga trail

imbaraga Trail

Distance: 9.8 km round trip


Rating: difficult




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54 iMBaraga trail

iMBaraga trail 55

Are you up for the challenge? The Imbaraga Trail is one of the premier paths in Nyungwe, but also among its toughest. This loop trail circumnavigates the head of the Bururi valley, passing throughhabitatsthatrangefromunder-storythicketshighonUwinka ridge to lush riverine forests 500 meters below. Special features include great views down and across the Bururi Valley, some of the finest trees in the park, and four lovely waterfalls.

The Imbaraga Trail should only be attempted by hikers with enough strength and stamina to manage a long climb up the westernwallofthevalleytoreturntotheridgeatover2400meters above sea level hence, its kinyarwandan name means strength. The ascent is continuous for about 2.5 kilometers and will really get your heart thumping!

From Uwinka Overlook, follow the trail to the Buhoro-Imbaraga junction and turn right and continue to the junction with the Igishigishigi Trail. If you follow the Igishigishigi Trail which forks left from the main trail, you will add the canopy walkwayexperiencetoyourhike.Or,youcancontinuetothenext junction and turn left.

This segment of the trail has four benches for resting or simply taking in the wonderful and changing views. While relaxing,

Umuyove trail

Igishigishigi trail

Uwinka trail

Irebero trail

Umugote trailButare - Cyangugu Road

Rangiro Road

Imbaraga trail

500m

56 uwiNka trails Network

listen to the variety of bird calls. You may also be able to distinguish tree frogs, crickets, cicadas and sometimes monkeys. Near the bottom of this valley the trail enters a grove of giant tree ferns with their huge, distinctive lacy fronds. The fourth bench, at kilometer 2.0, is located at the base of the first waterfall --anarrowstreamspillingoveranearlyverticalwall of bedrock about 12 meters high. Shortly beyond the waterfall, the trail gets steeper and passes a massive African mahogany tree. This is only the first of many impressive trees that are a hallmark of the trail.

At kilometer 3.2, the trail again crosses thestream, just below the second waterfall. This one is similar to the first but several meters higher. Look for giant lobelias near the bridge, either in flower or with the dried remains of extremely long flower stalks. The latter are hollow and used for making flutes. The trail continues descending at a gentler gradient along the wall of the ravine, which drops off steeply to the right. Here the underbrush is

iMBaraga trail 57

dominated by rampant growth of a creeper, Sericostachys scandens, which used to be eaten by elephant and buffalo, but is now growing with diminished biological control. Colobus monkeys will sometimes descend from the trees to eat it.

Before you know it, you hit the third waterfall. This is the best of the lot a superb series of cascades fanning down angular bedrock steps to a small crescent pool, surrounded by lush vegetation. The best view of the full formation is from the trail just beyond the cleared sites formerly used as campsites. From the base of the fall though, youll probably only see the bottom section, which is about 15 meters high.

After crossing the Bururi River, the trail immediately begins to climb the side of a deep, narrow ravine, on a long series of switchbacks to thetopoftheUwinkaridge,passingafourthscenicwaterfall.Ontheascenttherearesixbenchesusethem!Theygiveyouaperfectexcuse to stop without having to admit to being winded and a few great views of the forest to boot. The last bench is located at the junction with the Uwinka Trail, on the right.

Just after that junction, the trail reaches the top of the ridge, where it continues to climb at a gentle gradient to a junction with the far end of the Irebero Trail. From that point, the Imbaraga Trail contours around the Bururi River side of the Uwinka ridge on a fairly level path that coincides with the northern section of the Irebero Trail and the Buhoro Trail. Soon you are at the junction where you began your hike, and the short but not so gentle climb to Uwinka.

58 ireBero trail

irebero Trail

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Distance: 3.6 km, including roadsegment

Averagetime:3hours

Rating: moderate




ireBero trail 59

This moderate length trail loops around one of the two highest summits on the Uwinka ridge. It has the highest altitude viewpoints of any trail in the Uwinka trail network and overlooks the park and beyond from both sides of the ridge. To the south, youll gaze all the way across the Rwandan border to the first ridge of Burundi, about 15 kmaway,asthecrowflies.Onthenorthwesternside,youllseeIdjwiIslandinLakeKivu,30kmdistant.Infact,thenameIreberomeansplace to observe from and that definitely describes the paths many viewpoints that invite you to pass the time taking in the beauty of Rwanda.

Like all trails in the area, there are large rainforest trees, wildflowers and good birding. Handsome francolins are commonly sighted here. Visitors fresh from low altitudes might choose this trail as their introductory hike.

There are several options for starting the hike. (Refer to the map of the Imbaraga Trail to see how the whole Uwinka network of trails interconnect) Hikers may park at Uwinka overlook, meet the guide, and walk to the Irebero Trail either by road or by taking the Imbaraga Trail spur down to the main Imbaraga Trail. Walking by road from ReceptiontoIreberoTrailhead#1makestheroundtriphike4.6km.TakingtheImbaragaTrailspurmakesthetotalroundtrip5.4kmlong.

Imbaraga trail

Imbaraga trail

Umugote trail

Umugote trail


Irebero trail

700m

60 ireBero trail

Well take you on a loop beginning and ending at Irebero Trailhead # 1. The trail sets off from the road and quickly reaches the Imbaraga Trail, with which it will coincide for about 2 km. This segment of the hike is on the north side of Uwinka ridge, which overlooks the beautiful Bururi Valley and beyond to the DRC. The trail contours through pleasant forest and the air is full of bird song, with tree frogs chiming in. Listen for turacos and even to the sounds of small insect life. In David Livingstones account of his travels in Africa he says, Inthequietestpartsoftheforestthereisheardafaintbutdistincthum,whichtellsofinsectjoy.Onemayseemanywhiskingaboutintheclearsunshineinpatchesamongthegreenglancingleaves;butthereareinvisiblemyriadsworkingwithnever-tiringmandibleson leaves, and stalks, and beneath the soil. They are all brimful of enjoyment. Indeed, the universality of organic life may be called a mantle of happy existence encircling the world... (Livingstone, David. Missionary Travels and Researches in South Africa). Some of this mantle of happy existence may seep into receptive visitors to the lush rainforests of Nyungwe.

When the Irebero Trail turns left from the Imbaraga Trail, it starts to cross over to the southern side of Uwinka ridge. In minutes, at the next junction, youll hit Umugote Trail junction on the right. Those who stay faithful to the Irebero Trail will soon be rewarded with a gorgeous view across the hills of the southwestern side of the park and beyond to Burundi.

Muchofthehighersectionsofthetrailarecharacterizedbydensethicketintheundergrowth.OneofthespecialshrubsoftheIreberoTrail is the relatively rare and strongly aromatic Mimulopsis arborescens.Theflowersarewhiteorcreamcoloredwithviolet-brownnectarguides and can be seen in mass bloom only once every eight years or so. Youll also find it around Kamiranzovu Marsh. Also on this trail, in season, you may see the strange, red, tubular flowers of mistletoes, fallen from parasitic shrubs in the tall trees. Catch a glimpse of it up in the high branches and lean over to surprise your hiking partner with a quick kiss!

Although youre almost done, there is a clearing with another dazzling view of Lake Kivu. Stop here to soak in the sights and mentally planforacanoetripacrossthelakelateronintheweek.Attheroad,turnrightandbird-watchalongyourkilometerwalkbacktothe reception at Uwinka if no vehicle is there to pick you up.

62 uMugote trail

uPPER umugOtE tRAilDistance:3.6kmroundtrip,includingroadsegment


Rating: Moderate




lOWER umugOtE tRAilElevation low point: 2280

Distance: 1.3 km, alone, 0.6 km longer thanremaining on the upper Umugote Trail

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uMugote trail 63

Isolated from the rest of the Uwinka trail system on the south side of the Huye-Rusizi Road,the upper and lower Umugote Trails descend the southeastern side of the Uwinka ridge. The trail was renamed in 2008 after the beautiful syzygium tree which appears along this trail in abundance. Wandering in and out of two ravines, the lower Umugote Trail drops an extra 70 m in elevation. Many sections of path have dense vegetation on the uphill side and an exhilarating open vista on the steep downhill side. Clearings in the deep ravines give you a chance to look at different levels of the forest from the canopy to the forest floor or to admire the steepness of a mountainside that you just descended. The rainforest here is pristine and hikerscanenjoymanyfineviewsframedbygiantold-growthtrees.Onacleardayyoucancountasmanyasadozenridges,asfarasthe mountains of Kabira National Park in Burundi which is contiguous with Nyungwe. In the foreground you can look south across the valley to neighboring Busozo Mountain. Just behind it, to the right, youll see Bukamba Mountain and to the southwest on the same

Umugote trail

Imbaraga trail

Irebero trail


Umugote trail

150m

64 uMugote trail

ridge, Rugazi Mountain. Immediately beyond those peaks, there is a steep descent to a broad valley, which contains the second largest marsh in the park.

The Umugote Trail has three junctions with the main road. Trailhead 1 is used as a starting point for the purpose of this description. Taking this route, you leave some of the altitude gain for your return trip along the main road; this saves a little of your energy since the road has an easy gradient. As soon as you take a few steps down the path from the road, the first fine landscape comes into view. In the foreground, there is a Hagenia abyssinica tree, easily recognized by the old brown leaves which seem to remain on the tree longer than you would think necessary. However, this is a secondary species. Pretty quickly, youll enter pristine rainforest with the usual wide variety of trees found throughout the Uwinka trail system. Some of the special specimens of this trail include impressive strangler figs. When in fruit, these trees attract primates, birds and other wildlife.

There is a good chance of seeing monkeys, on the Umugote Trail, especially blue or mountain. If you keep still, some primates will actuallymoveclosertoinvestigatetheirhumanvisitors.Youmaynoticesomeoftheirnarrowpathsdisappearingintothebush.Othermammals sometimes seen along this stretch of trail include bushpigs and duikers. Listen for cicadas, crickets, tree frogs, birds and other primates. Watch the swirling flights of butterflies, brightly colored or camouflaged to blend right into the forest itself.

Birders love this trail for the wide array of species that inhabit this part of the forest and are easily visible from many of the intersects withthemainroad. Someguidessay there isa95%chanceof seeingagreatblueturaco.Youmayalsoseered-collaredmountainbabblers,amountainbuzzard,handsomefrancolins,crownedeagles,and,ifyourepatientandcanwaitabout30minutes,yourrenearlyguaranteedtoseeapurple-breastedsunbird.Listenforblue-headedsunbirds,mountainoriolesandtheever-presentchesnut-throatedapalis, which sounds a little like a telephone.

The many clearings on this trail, compared to those on the other side of the ridge, provide more sunlit space for flowers to bloom. Soon after starting on the trail there is a dense bank of begonias by the trail, thriving effortlessly, without a gardener in attendance. Look up

uMugote trail 65

into the trees for flowers too. Using binoculars, youll spot orchids,fernsandotherepiphytes.Oneofthemoreshowyspecies found on this trail is Canarina eminii a cousin of theCanary Islandbellflower -with large orange bell-shaped flowers; you may spot these on the ground or up in the trees quite unusual behavior for a flower of this type. Some of the more spectacular tree species on this trail include waterberry, welcome trees, Tabernamontana johnstonii, Casiopurea ruwenzoriensis, and East African yellowwood. Your guide will tell you about their traditional uses as food, medicine, and in crafts and magic. Speaking of big thingsif earthworms are any indicator of soil health, visitors will be impressed by Nyungwes giants. These worms are half a meter long and as thick as a mans finger!

When the trail reaches the road, a right turn takes hikers 0.7 km back to the starting point. Alternatively hikers can turnleftontheroad,walkalongitfor130mandcrosstheroadtoathirdUmugotetrailhead.ThisshortspuroftheUmugoteTrailascends steeply to a junction with the Irebero Trail. If youre feeling ambitious, turn right onto the Irebero Trail to go higher up on the same side of the mountain. From the Irebero Trail, youll get some of the same views but from a higher elevation. Alternatively, for those who like to see what is just around the next corner, walk ahead a few minutes to the junction of the Imbaraga Trail to see what lies on the opposite side of the Uwinka ridge.

66 uMuyove trail

umuyove Trail

Distance 5.5 m (including Imbaraga Trail spur)

Estimatedtime:31/2hours

Rating: Moderate

High:2450

Low: 2120

Cumulativeascent:313m0.0 1.0 2.0 3.0 4.0 5.0


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uMuyove trail 67

This is one of the most popular hikes in Nyungwe. In a relatively short distance youll relax by a waterfall, try out the views from ten different benches and be amazed by the birds, the colorful flowers and some of the most massive trees in the park. The Kinyarwanda name for the trail, Umuyove, means mahogany and youll find some of Nyungwes finest examples of this valuable tree along this trail. The Umuyove Trail also serves as access to several side trails used for viewinggrey-cheekedmangabeys,Angolanblackandwhitecolobus monkeys and chimpanzees, any of which, in addition to blue monkeys, might be seen or heard on the trail. There is also a path which connects to Rangiro Road and Banda village in the valley below, which supplies the majority of RDBs Uwinka staff.

From Uwinka Overlook, follow the trail to the Buhoro-Imbaraga junction and turn right and continue to the junction with the Igishigishigi Trail. You will immediately be surrounded by the serenity of lush, green rainforest and the pleasant sound of birds, tree frogs and crickets. Many of the trails here are cut into the hillside, providing hikers with chance to peer into all levels of the forest, from flowering herbs on the forest floor, to thickets of lichen draped lianas and shrubs, to epiphytes, taking advantage of giant trees for sunlight. If you follow the Igishigishigi Trail which forks left from the main trail, you will add the canopy walkwayexperiencetoyourhike.Or,youcancontinuetothenextjunctionandturnleft.

Imbaraga trail

Imbaraga andUmuyove trail

Igishigishigi trail

Imbaraga andIgishigishigi trail

Imbaraga andBuhoro trail


Rangiro Road

Umuyove trail

300m

68 uMuyove trail

ThemainImbaragaTrailisreachedabout400malongwiththejunctionoftheBuhoroTrail.TheIgishigishigiTrailjoinsfromtheleftafter another 50 m. (Refer to the map of the Imbaraga Trail to see the layout of the whole Uwinka Trial System.) Since most of the Uwinka interconnect, there are numerous possibilities for variations of the routes given in this book.

At 800m along the path, the Umuyove Trail comes in from the right, while to the left it coincides with the Igishigishigi and Imbaraga Trails. The Umuyove circuit can be done in either direction but is commonly done clockwise.

Hikers continue to descend the ridge and the trail only gets more beautiful as you venture onwards. Some sections of the path are covered in moss or carpeted with flowers fallen from the canopy. Impatiens, begonias and numerous other flowers line the sides of the trail. Here youll find the classic, textbook inventory of rainforest trees of Nyungwe. Your guide will know the names of most of them and will impart upon you the traditional uses or lore.

Thetrailcontinuesdescendingtoasteep-sided,narrowvalleyfullofgianttreeferns.Atthebottomofthetrail,a12mhighwaterfallspillsoveranearlyverticalwallofglistening,black rock. Large-flowered,magenta jewelweeds thrive in themoist, sunnyclearing.Nowthattheeasypartisover,youllimmediatelyascendtheothersideoftheV-shapedvalley.Afterabout0.35km,theImbaragaTrailbranches off to the left and Umuyove Trail goes right, continuing up the side of a ridge.

The ascent is gradual, and relieved by several short down hill or flat sections. There are six more benches for resting. The Umuyove Trail is short enough that hikers are encouraged to indulge themselves in the luxury walking at a comfortable pace, slow enough to absorbtheamazingbeautyofAfricasfinestmid-altitudemontanerainforest.Considertakingaminutetoremainstillandsilent.Listenfor cicadas, crickets, tree frogs, birds and the gurgle of the stream below. Watch leaves in the canopy flutter soundlessly. Enjoy the spots of color of impatiens, begonias, mistletoes and numerous other flowers against the deep, rich greens. Using your binoculars, search fororchidsandotherairplantshighup in thecanopy.Note theamazingvarietyof ferns, fromsmallgrass-like fronds to the lacyfronds of giant tree ferns found at the bottom of the valley. Although huge trees are a big attraction for this trail, the little things can


be absorbing too, from tiny blue flowers in the trail, to mosses, lichens, butterflies and other insects. Inhale the scent of humid forest, the aromatic leaves and scented flowers. You may find yourself calmer and with a sense of well being on the rainforest trails of Uwinka. Dont forget to bring that feeling back with you to the hustle and bustle of Kigali.

70 west of uwiNka

west of uwiNkaTrails to the west of Uwinka display a potpourri of Nyungwe landscapes, including the Parks highest

waterfall, largest body of water, and the most spectacular display of orchids. Hikers will experience striking

changes in landscapes, whether wandering through tea plantation into dense, tropical forest on the way

toKamiranzovuFallsordroppingdownfromthehighAfro-montaneforestintotheKamiranzovuMarsh.

Birding opportunities abound, especially for those early risers and late afternoon hikers.

west of uwiNka 71

72 isuMo trail

ISUMO TraIlDistance: 10.6 km (if longest combination of routes is taken round trip)

Averagetime:4hours

Rating: moderate



Cumulative gain: 166 m (from Gisakura ORTPN Reception tothewaterfall)and293mreturningby the same route)

72 isuMo trail

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isuMo trail 73

This trail of great contrasts provides a feast for the senses. Beginning at Gisakura Reception Center, the first half winds through brilliant green tea fields, with grassy verges maintained by goats, and full of sun-lovingwildflowers and butterflies. This is big sky country with gorgeous views northwest to Lake Kivu and the DRC. The belt of tea cultivation bordering the forest is like a desert to most herbivorous forest creatures. They are not adapted to browse this alien shrub from China, and so return to the forest, making it ideal as a buffer zone plant. The animals lack of interest in the tea also helps keep tea interests and the park on friendly terms.

At2.3kmthetraildescendsintooneofthemostdenselyvegetatedandsteepestrainforestravinesonanytrailatNyungwe.Coolmoistair and the murmur of a river rise from below, mingled with calls of birds, tree frogs and insects. Ferns, mosses, lichens and flowers are exceptionally abundant in the high humidity. Curiously, three successive benches are completely surrounded by a brilliant display of wildflowers, each by a single, different species. The first is wreathed with deep pink jewelweed and also has a fabulous view of the ravine, thesecondbenchisencircledbydelicatelyfragrantwhitebegoniasandathirdbywhiteflowerswithheart-shapedleaves.

Several species of primate are commonly found here, as well as many birds. Although visitors will almost never see any, this is reputed to be the best trail for finding snakes. None is deadly poisonous.


Isumo trail

500m

74 isuMo trail

But the ultimate goal at the end of the trail is Nyungwes biggest waterfall and the inspiration for the trails name isumo is waterfall in kinyarwanda. At roughly 17 m in height, it is even more impressive for the force with which it shoots through a narrow gap into a stunning amphitheater, lined with fluttering fronds of ferns, flowers and lianas, all thriving in the mist zone of the fall. There are caves in the overhanging cliffs, and a rainbow in the spray on sunny days. Three km to the east, and 100 m higher in elevation, lies the bottom of thethirteensquarekilometerKamiranzovuMarsh,whichdrainsovertherimofthiswater-carvedcanyon.

You may enjoy the fall from two main vantage points depending upon how wet you want to get. The first is at the end of a short spur, which leads to a picnic bench overlooking the fall at 50 meters distance. Small trees partially obscure the view. The fall itself can be reached by descending to the wild river below and then clambering over wet rocks to a large boulder in the middle of the amphitheatre. From here, youll be thrillingly close to the bottom of the fall, where it thunders down, full blast, nearly at your feet. Watch your footing onthewetsurfaceasyougazeupward.ThewaterinthefallandtheriverrushingtowardLakeKivuhasatea-coloredtintduetothetannin content in the waters of the marsh. While youre there, dont forget to look down too. You may be startled by dark brown crabs scuttling around the dark wet rocks, looking like they have lost their way from the sea. Mist keeps the bench permanently wet but you will want to stay here for a while to enjoy the awesome beauty and power of this one very special place in the heart of Africa.

Hikersmaysave3.2kmroundtripbystartingatCarPark1,or4kmroundtrip,startingatCarPark2.Thelatterisaccessibleonlyin4X4vehiclesandeventhesecangetintroubleifthehardpacked,clayeysurfaceiswet.Therearetwoentrancestotheforest.Startingat Entrance 2 saves another 0.25 km. Consider varying your entrance and exit routes. If you like orchids, be sure to include Car Park 2 on your route, even if you do not park there. Look in the scraggly, old jacaranda trees for some of the best views of epiphytic orchids in thepark--rightateyelevel.

isuMo trail 75

76 kaMiraNzovu trail

kamiranzovu Trail

Distance: 5.9 km, including orchid loop and road segment


Rating: Moderate




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kaMiraNzovu trail 77

Kamiranzovu Marsh, Nyungwe National Parks largest wetland, is an impressive geological formation. With its nearly circular rim of lush, forested mountains, it resembles a giant caldera and drains through a dramatic gap between two peaks. On the moreelevated western side of the trail, hikers will reach several good vantage points for taking in the whole marsh, including its outlet. Through that gap, the tannin-rich, tea-colored marsh water flows about3 km, to Kamiranzovu Waterfall, then onward toLake Kivu, Lake Tanganyika, the Congo River and finally to the Atlantic Ocean. The name is said tobe derived from, kamira (to swallow) and nzovu (elephant), and refers to the elephants that used to roam Nyungwe occasionally becoming trapped in the ooze of the marsh. The last elephant died in 1999 and its skull is displayed in the Uwinka Interpretation Center. Scientists are using DNA sequencing and other techniques to identify a close cousin of the Nyungwe elephants and exploring the possibility of reintroducing them to the forest.

Uwinka trail


Kamiranzovu trail

300m

78 kaMiraNzovu trail

There are two Kamiranzovu trailheads off the main road, 0.7 km apart. Starting at trailhead 2, to the east, reduces the altitude gain by about 37m, unless youplan to do a complete loop.This route alsohas a long, lovely descent to the marsh, with fine views. Setting off from trailhead 1 means you reach the marsh very quickly. If you want a shorter version of the trip, start at trailhead 1 and explore only the section of trail bordering the marsh or to view marsh birdlife or plant life, then return to the road. From trailhead 1 to the far end of the Orchid loopandbackwouldbe about4km round trip.HikerswhodothefullKamiranzovuTrail,butbypasstheOrchidLoop,willsaveabout0.5km.Fortheendofthehike,visitorscanarrangeapick-upat either trailhead or walk back along the road to a parked vehicle at either end of the loop.

Two of the endemic Albertine Rift bird species found by the marsh are Grauers Rush Warbler and the Albertine owlet. For the latter, you can

arrange a special trip to the marsh at night, with one of the guides who has a recording of its call. Although not always seen, the owlet can usually be heard.

Onlyasmallsectionoftrailactuallyreachestheverymarshitself,andtwostretchesofboardwalkletthehikerenterwithdryfeetgettingoutwithdryfeetisthechallenge!Thewooden-plankedwalkwaysareslimy,sowalkwithcare.Wetlandsingeneralareespeciallyrichinorganiclifeandvisitorswillfindhereacontrasttothethicketsandrainforesthigheruponthetrail.Oneoftheboardwalksspansa corner of the marsh where visitors can view a great variety of wetland vegetation at close range. There are flowering herbs, shrubs, small trees, orchids, grasses, ferns, mosses and giant lycopods. Soon after stepping on the boardwalk, and in season, one can see the

kaMiraNzovu trail 79

large-flowered,pink,meter-plus-tall,foxgloveorchid,oneofthemostwidespread orchids in Africa. Among many other showy orchids one can find Disa eminii and Calanthe sylvatica, the latter you may recognize from gardens back home in Europe or America.

TheOrchidLoophasashortsectionofboardwalkintothemarsh.Ifyoure taking this trail especially for the flora, dont miss looking into the thickets, which begin at the wet edges of the marsh. In the warm, humid air, the lianas, shrubs and small trees there are thickly laden withmosses, ferns, lichens and other epiphytes or air plants.Oneof the botanical specialties of this trail is an endemic, glossy, lemon yellow-floweredbegonia.While looking for ityoumayalsosee large,waxy, white flowers of wild magnolia, which have fallen on the trail.

At the far northern point of the hike, the Uwinka trail comes in on the left. This connects the Kamiranzovu Trail to the Uwinka Reception center compound, many uphill kilometers away.

The trail climbs through humid thickets and eventually enters classic rainforest again. Along the way there are several views of the marsh. As you stop to rest, listen, to count how many different frog calls you can distinguish, coming from the marsh and in the trees. If you think the views of the marsh are lovely, consider doing the Uwinka Trail for your next hike. It is a gorgeous trail, usually done one way, beginning near the height of Uwinka ridge and ending at Kamiranzovu Trail. The views of the marsh from the higher elevations offered by Uwinka Trail are some of the most satisfying in the park.

80 karaMBa trail

kaRamba TRail

Distance:4kmroundtrip


Rating: easy

Elevationlowpoint:1935

Elevationhighpoint:2030

Cumulative ascent: 129 m one way0.0 2.00.4 1.20.8 1.6


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karaMBa trail 81

Thiseasystrollreachesa360-degreeviewpointwithlittlephysical effort and is the premier bird walk in the park. It is short, relatively flat, and has excellent traction. If youve spent a few days hiking on rainforest trails, you will notice the dearth of big trees. Most of this trail is open to the sky due to substantial human influence in the relatively recent p

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Nyungwe Trail Guide