F R O M Vancouver, B . C., t o Skagway, Alaska, isa thousand mi les th rough an entrancing in landchannel, winding between islands and the main-

land as through a fa i ry land. T h e journey is made i nthe p a l a t i a l y a c h t - l i k e " P r i n c e s s " steamers o f t h eCanadian Pacif ic Ra i lway.

Nine d a y s complete t h e j o u r n e y i n t o t h i s land o fr o m a n c e a n d b a c k , l e a v i n g t h e t r a v e l l e r a t Va n -couver to s tar t the jou rney to the East through t h e mag-nif icent passes o f t h e Canad ian Pac i f i c Rock ies . S o m e ,indeed, who make the Alaskan t r i p have come from the East,and already in the f ive hundred miles of rai lway travel throughthe passes o f the fou r great mounta in ranges be tween C a l g a r yand Vancouver have had a foretaste o f t h e wonder fu l voyagethrough st ra i t and f iord wh ich awa i ts t h e m between Vancouverand Skagway.

M y s t e r y — t h a t i s t h e keyno te o f t h e N o r t h — m y s t e r y a n dsilence. A n d because o f i t s m y s t e r y the re w i l l a lways b e a nattract ion, something t o d raw men and t o ho ld them. F o r i t isno mere legend t h a t t he N o r t h ever calls back those w h o haveonce l ived in the snows and the mountains, or through an Alaskansummer.

Scarcely has one le f t Vancouver than there dawns the feelingtha t here is a new l i fe opening out. T o the r igh t is the main land

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of Br i t i sh C o l u m b i a - - t o t h e le f t , Vancouver Is land ,tak ing i ts name f rom the intrepid explorer who sailedinto t h e u n k n o w n waters o f the Pac i f i c a n d f o u n dthe ma in land t h rough a n unchar ted maze. T o rea-lize t o the fu l l t h e miracle o f th i s thousand miles o fnavigat ion f r o m Vancouver to Skagway, one should

stand f o r a n h o u r or so look ing forward, p i c k i n g o u twhat seems the channel t h e sh ip w i l l take , and f i nd ing

out how inva r iab ly one's guess i s w r o n g . F o r i t i s n o talways the mainland which lies to the east. O f t e n the moun-

tains which tower u p t o t h e sky, a lmost f rom the very deckof the ship itself, are bu t islands; and other channels lie behind,

w i th countless bays and st ra i ts and nar row gorges runn ing milesup i n t o t h e ma in land , tw i s t i ng , tu rn ing , creeping fo rward anddoubl ing back , t i l l t h e y p u t t o shame the most in t r icate mazewhich Or ien ta l m i n d eve r devised. A n d o f such i s t h e wholeroute wh ich f i na l l y creeps, as th rough the neck o f a funne l , t othe por t o f Skagway.

L e a v i n g T h e voyage t o A l a s k a c a n b e d i v i d e d i n t o t w oVa n c o u v e r p a r t s . T h e journey f rom Vancouver t o Ke tch i kan

is m o s t l y t h r o u g h n a r r o w channels , w i t h s teepshores heav i l y t imbered t o t he water 's edge. T h e second pa r t ,f rom Ketch ikan to Skagway, is through wider stretches of water,

Description o f the Ins ide Passage to Alaska is f rom suggestions by F. F. W. Lowle, late General Agent, Juneau. 1 9 2 2

-•26.

P r i n c eR u p e r t

To tem Poles at A le r t B y

w i t h glaciers, water fa l l s a n d rugged moun ta ins o n e i the r side,and r ich ly colored by the purple tw i l ights o f Alaska.

Leaving Vancouver, t h e G u l f o f Georgia is entered immed i -ately. I n abou t n ine hours Seymour Nar rows are reached. A tcertain t i m e s t h i s i s r a t h e r a n e x c i t i n g p iece o f w a t e r t onavigate, f o r t h e c u r r e n t rushes a n d b o i l s t h r o u g h i t l i k e ami l l race. I t i s the narrowest p a r t o f the channel between themainland and Vancouver, and may possibly be br idged some day.

A l e r t A l e r t Bay, t he f i rs t s top, is a p re t t y spot on Cormoran tB a y I s l a n d , near the shore of Vancouver Island. I t is a quaint

and h i s t o r i c n a t i v e se t t lement , f a m o u s f o r i t s t o t e mpoles—huge po les w i t h grotesque carv ings o f var ious imagesthat stand before the houses. T h e s e totems denote the ancestryor clan o f each fami l y, and can be read b y a na t i ve as anyoneelse wou ld read a genealogical char t . A l e r t B a y has a modernsalmon c a n n e r y, a gove rnmen t hosp i ta l , a n d schools f o r theIndians.

Very s h o r t l y t h e o p e n w a t e r s o f Queen C h a r l o t t eSound are crossed, and afford a passing glimpse o f thePacific Ocean stretching t o the horizon. A few hours

later a shorter gl impse o f the Pacif ic Ocean is caught f rom M i l l -bank Sound, a n d t h e beau t i fu l G ranv i l l e Channe l i s reached.For about th i r teen hours t he journey is th rough a fa i ry land o fdark green, p lac id waters. D o w n the high, steep shores, heav i lyt imbered w i t h f i r , c e d a r a n d spruce, spark le s i l ve r water fa l ls .So narrow and so w ind ing are the channels t h a t i t is sometimesrather a puzzle where the steamer can emerge. P r i n c e R u p e r tis the Pacif ic te rm ina l o f a t ranscont inental ra i lway, and has anextensive t rade i n ha l ibu t , salmon and o ther f ish t o the centra land eastern markets o f the continent.

K e t c h i k a n S h o r t l y af ter leaving Prince Ruper t , the t h i r d andlast s t r e t c h o f o p e n w a t e r i s passed, D i x o n ' s

Entrance. O n t h e east side are passed t h e sett lements o f O ldand N e w M e t l a k a t l a , where a successful mission, f ounded b yFather D u n c a n , i s conducted f o r t h e nat ives. P o r t Simpson,w i th its old Hudson Bay Company's Fort , is close by, and Un i tedStates waters are entered shor t ly before arr iva l a t Ketch ikan.

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Ketch ikan (p ronounced K e t c h - e - can , a n I n d i a n n a m emeaning "ev i l smell ing wa te r, " though there seems no reason forthis t i t l e a t present t i m e ) m i g h t b e sa id t o be n o w t h e m o s tprosperous town in Alaska. I t is one tha t pleases by i ts bust l ingair, i ts hotels, fine stores and banks. T h e waterfal l , about f i f teenminutes' w a l k f r o m t h e s teamer docks , s h o u l d c e r t a i n l y b evisited. I n the late summer months thousands o f salmon ascendthe fal ls in the r iver, and i t is a wonder fu l s ight t o see the largefish leap and f ind t h e i r w a y t o the spawning banks. K e t c h i k a nhas large cold storage and salmon canning plants.

W r a n g e l l A d i s t i n c t change o f scenery occurs f r o m n o w o n .The stretches o f wa te r become w ide r, snow-capped

mountains rise on e i ther side, and the wonderfu l purp le pecul iarto the Alaskan sunrise or sunset is seen. W r a n g e l l (pronouncedR a n g - gel , and christened f r om a fo rmer Russian governor) i sour next stop. I t is a beaut i fu l ly si tuated and interest ing town,near t he m o u t h o f the S t i k ine R i v e r, w h i c h serves t h e famousCassiar C o u n t r y i n t h e in te r io r o f B r i t i sh Co lumbia , k n o w n t obig game hunters the wor ld over. A steamer service runs f r omWrangel l up the Stikine. P a r t of the old Russian for t s t i l l exists.

Ta k u T h e Wrangel l Nar rows are reached an hou r or so o u tG l a c i e r f r o m Wrangel l , and f o r near ly t w o hours t h e steamer

proceeds a t h a l f speed t h rough t h i s na r row w i n d i n gchannel, w h i c h can o n l y be nav igated a t cer ta in stages o f thetide. T h i s passage between the islands saves a long detour aroundCape Decision, across a rough and open par t of the Pacific Ocean ;i t has been thorough ly wel l marked w i t h buoys and l ights, andis one o f the most beaut i fu l par ts o f the coast.

Leaving t h e Nar rows , t h e p o r t o f Petersburg, a f lour ish ingfishing centre inhabited largely by Scandinavian people, is passed.Here h istory changes in i ts character. H i t h e r t o i t has been inter-woven w i t h t h a t o f the Hudson B a y Company, whose posts a resti l l scattered a long t h e coast. B u t here is A laska, w h i c h o n l ycomparat ively recent ly came under the sway o f America. U n t i l1867, Alaska was a possession o f Russia, wh ich i t so near ly jo insat the Behring Straits. Some traces of the Russian rule still remain.

We are n o w surrounded b y t h e t yp i ca l g randeur o f A laska.Ta k u I n l e t (pronounced Ta c k - co) sends ou t hundreds o f odd-

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Ketchikan

Grizzly Bear K i l led near Wrangel l

Juneau and the Gastineau Channel

Indian Cur io Sellers

Bald-Headed Eagle K i l led at Ta k uPage T h r e e

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shaped ice-floes to meet us, as blue as indigo, f loat ing b y to mel tgradual ly in warmer waters. S l o w l y the steamer approaches thetwo famous glaciers a t t h e head o f the in le t . T h e one o n t h eleft is a "dead" glacier, a mixture of brown, white, and blue colors,and i s g radua l l y receding. T h e o t h e r g lac ier i s " a l i v e , " a n dcont inual ly moves forward. I t shows a l l t he colors o f the ra in-bow, according t o t h e t i m e o f day o r t h e pos i t ion o f t he sun.Huge masses of ice cont inual ly break off into the sea w i t h a deaf-ening thunder and f loat away l ike gigant ic swans. T a k u Glacieris a mi le wide, and extends for over n inety miles over the moun-tains t o j o i n L l e w e l l y n Glac ier. T h e v i b ra t i on caused b y t h eboat's whist le br ings down great pieces o f ice weighing hundredsof tons.

J u n e a u T h r e e hours steaming up Gastineau Channel br ings usto Juneau, c l ing ing t o t h e base a n d sides o f M o u n t

Juneau. J u n e a u (pronounced j u - no , and named for i ts French-Canadian founder) i s the capi ta l o f Alaska, the residence o f theGovernor, and the meet ing place o f the Legislature. U n t i l somet ime af ter the beginning o f the late war, three o f the largest goldore crush ing p l a n t s i n t h e w o r l d were s i tua ted close b y — t h eTreadwell , t h e A laska Gast ineau and t h e A l a s k a Juneau m i l l sand mines. N o w o n l y t h e l as t named remains. J u n e a u i s a nup-to-date c i t y, w i t h a l l mode rn improvements , and has goodroads and automobi les aplenty. One par t icu lar ly interest ing r ideis by automobi le to the face o f Mendenhal l Glacier. I n the ear lysummer t h e s teamer schedule o n t h e no r thbound t r i p a ffordst ime to make th is excursion i n day l igh t . ( T i m e 21,i. hours, cost$10.00 p e r c a r — o r t o t h e g lac ier a n d A u k L a k e , 31/6 hours ,$15.00 a car. ) A n o t h e r is b y t he mounta in road w ind ing u p t oPerseverance M i n e . T h e Te r r i t o r i a l M u s e u m i n t h e A l a s k aBrotherhood Ha l l has a wonderfu l Alaska collection which every-one should v i s i t ; t h e salmon hatchery is a lso wel l w o r t h y o f avisit. T h o s e so incl ined wi l l be well repaid by seeing the fine rawfur stocks o f local dealers.

L y n n W i t h t h e possible except ion o f Ta k u Glac ier, t h e t r i pC a n a l f r o m Juneau t o Skagway provides the mos t wonder fu l

scenery o f all. F o r over e igh ty miles we steam u p thearm o f sea called the Ly n n Canal, va ry ing in w i d t h f rom one t oover f ive miles. M o u n t a i n s o f rock capped w i t h snow, tower ingglaciers a n d gush ing water fa l ls , canyons o f a l l sizes a n d w i l dshapes, a n d colors i n restless v a r i e t y, sur round us. P a s s i n g a

Canadian Pacific Br i t i sh Columbia Coast Service to Alaska

1

United States A r m y Post, F o r t W i l l i a m H . Seward, l y i n g backin Haines I n l e t on t he west side, we suddenly t u r n a po in t andsee Skagway ahead o f us.

Skagway S k a g w a y is the end o f the nor thbound run . I t i s atown w h i c h has loomed large i n t h e h i s to ry o f the

Nor th . W h e n t h e go ld rush s ta r ted t o t he Yu k o n i n 1896 t h elanding was made a t Dyea, wh ich l ies a t the no r th o f the o theror western in le t , wh ich completes the Ly n n Canal . F r o m D y e athe t r a i l led over t he dangerous Ch i lcoot Pass, b u t w o r d cameof the discovery o f the Wh i te Pass, and in a day fifteen thousandpeople lef t Dyea for Skagway, and in a day a big c i t y had grownwhere b e f o r e w a s c h i e f l y s w a m p . S k a g w a y (p ronounced a sspelt) is an Ind ian name meaning " m u c h w i n d . "

The s teamer l a y s o v e r a b o u t t h i r t y - six hours , a n d a m p l eoppor tun i ty is given fo r the m a n y diversions offered i n summer.These i n c l u d e " h i k e s " a l o n g t h e S k a g w a y R i v e r , m o u n t a i ncl imbing, launch t r ips or angling.

The U. S. Government Road Commission have recent ly com-pleted a footbr idge across the Skagway R i ve r, wh i ch w i l l a l lowtourists t o v is i t For tune Bay and Smuggler's Cove—which owesits name t o t he fac t t h a t i t f igured a s the headquarters o f the" r u m runners" dur ing the gold rush. I f the plans of the SkagwayAlpine C l u b a r e consummated D y e a w i l l b e accessible f r o mSkagway over th is t ra i l .

S p o r t i n gA t t r a c t i o n s

Princess Louise

A wonde r f u l v a r i e t y o f h u n t i n g i s offered t h esportsman in Nor the rn Br i t i sh Columbia, Yu k o nTe r r i t o r y, a n d Alaska, where N a t u r e has r i ch l y

endowed i t s m i g h t y snow-capped mounta ins , expansive i n l a n dseas, vas t areas o f trackless wilderness and lone ly tundra , w i t hgiant moose, lord ly elk and caribou, deer, savage si lvert ip grizzlies,sheep, g o a t s a n d m a n y o t h e r f o r m s o f w i l d l i fe . T h e f ish ingoffers an interest ing side l ine t o a b ig game h u n t and t he swi f t ,rocky, tumbl ing rivers, well stocked w i th gamy f ight ing t rout , andthe moun ta in - r immed lakes o f unequalled beau ty, a l c o m b i n eto make t h i s " r o o f o f the w o r l d " a paradise fo r the sportsman.

More than a dozen varieties of bear are to be found in this moun-tain domain, ranging f rom the huge polar bear and terr ible kod iakr ight d o w n t h rough t h e d i f fe rent species t o t h e common b l ackbear once f ound a l l o v e r Amer ica . T h e d i f fe rent var ie t ies a renumerous, according to locat ion o n t h e islands, a long the coastin the trackless forests, the mounta in peaks and the ice floes.

7.11Mr7larie'l. - ••1

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Dancing on Board a Canadian Pacific Steamer

Gold Washing, Spruce Creek, A t l i n

Davidson Glacier, Ly n n Canal

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Hikers Return ing f rom the Denver Glacier

An Alaska To t e m

1..Emmina.1.1"1117.1.,BRITISH CO E i g I A C O A S T S E R V I C E_

These no r the rn moose are t h e largest members o f t he deerfami ly and are p lent i fu l ly distr ibuted th roughout the greater parto f t h i s c o u n t r y. M a g n i f i c e n t t r o p h i e s a r e b r o u g h t o u t eachseason. C a r i b o u , too, are abundant and inhab i t the treeless andtundra sections o f t he in te r io r. M o u n t a i n sheep a n d goa t a reamong Alaska's most prized game animals. M a n y other forms ofwi ld l i f e , inc lud ing smal le r game, f u r bearers, a n d b i r d l i f e , i npart icular, are prevalent.

Alaska n o t o n l y has opened u p excel lent h u n t i n g d i s t r i c t sw i th in he r o w n boundar ies b u t is t h e gateway t o a number o fother i m p o r t a n t b i g game sections i n t h e Yu k o n Te r r i t o r y andNor thern Br i t i sh Columbia.

Whi le some o f the more accessible local i t ies are hunted eachyear, t h e m a i n b i g game d is t r i c ts can a t present be l im i t ed t oseven, v i z . M c K i n l e y sect ion a n d K o d i a k I s l a n d i n A l a s k a ,Kluahne, M c M i l l a n and Pel ley Rivers, and Wh i t e R iver distr ictsin Y u k o n Te r r i t o r y, a n d i n N o r t h e r n B r i t i s h C o l u m b i a , t h eCassiar, and A t l i n and Tes l in Lakes area.

I t is suggested t h a t in tend ing sportsmen communicate d i rectw i th t h e underment ioned f o r re l i ab le i n f o r m a t i o n a b o u t t h ehunt ing or other condit ions in any o f the above distr ic ts:M c K i n l e y D i s t r i c t F A . M a r t i n ( G a m e Wa r d e n ) ,

Anchorage, A laskaKod iak Is land J A. Baughman (Game Warden),

Seward, A laskaKluahne Lake D is t r i c ts W m . Armst rong, K luahne, Y. T.

M . E . Bones, K luahne, Y. T.Jacquot Bros., K luahne, Y T .

M c M i l l a n and Pel ley R ive rD is t r i c t R G. Thomas, Whi te Horse, Y. T.

I ra Va n B ibber, Selk i rk, Y. T.Wh i te R i ve r D i s t r i c t W m . Armst rong, K luahne, Y. T.

M . E . Bones, K luahne, Y. T.Jacquot Bros., K luahne, Y. T.

A C

Telegraph Creek H u d s o n Bay Co.Cassiar Moun ta ins J . F r a n k Cal lbreath,

Telegraph Creek, B . C.Geo. B . Bal l ,

Telegraph Creek, B . C.A t l i n and Tes l in Lakes L o u i s Schultz, A t l i n , B . C.

(The Ta y l o r D r u r y Pedlar Co. have t rad ing posts a t Tes l in ,L i t t l e Salmon, Carmacks, Selkirk, Ross River and Mayo . P a r t i e so f pract ical ly any size can be handled and ou t f i t t ed b y th is f i rmthrough the i r head office a t Wh i te Horse.)

H i s t o r i c a l T h e t e r r i t o r y n o w k n o w n as A laska was unknownNotes t o t he wh i t e m a n t i l l , i n 1741, i t was explored b y

two Russ ian off icers, C a p t a i n s V i t u s B e r i n g a n dChi r ikov. T h i r t y - t h r e e years la ter i t was v is i ted b y Spaniardscoming up f rom the Pacific, and in 1778 Captain Cook undertooksome surveys o f the Coast . T h e f i r s t e laborate survey o f t h a tCoast was made by Captain Vancouver in 1793-94. T h e Russiansformal ly assumed possession i n 1799, when t h e Admin i s t ra t i onwas handed over t o t h e Russian Amer ican Company, t h e ch ie fresident d i rec to r being A lexander Baranov, w h o founded S i t k ain 1804. T h e re ign o f th is Char tered C o m p a n y ended i n 1861when Prince Maksu tov was appointed Imper ia l Governor.

Six years later, in the same year as t ha t in which Canada wasconfederated a s t h e D o m i n i o n , t h e U n i t e d S ta tes purchasedAlaska f rom Russia fo r $7,200,000, i n order t o obta in cont ro l o fthe fisheries a n d f u r t rade, w h i c h a t t h a t t i m e were t h e c h i e fknown resources o f A laska. T h e gradual d iscovery o f minera lwealth culminated in the K lond ike rush o f 1897, and the rush tothe gold fields o f Nome in 1900, since when the min ing indus t ryhas been stabil ized.

A w o r d i n genera l r e l a t i v e t o t h e A l a s k a po r t s . V i s i t o r sencounter t h e w o r d s " Sourdough " a n d " Cheechacho," d i s -

Panoramic V i m

;

, o f Skagway

t inguishing t h e res ident f r o m t h e n e w a r r i va l . T h e f i r s t i s acompliment, meaning an old t i m e r o r one w h o has seen t h e iceform a n d g o o u t o f the Yu k o n R i v e r i n f a l l a n d spr ing. T h esecond is an Esqu imaux word meaning tenderfoot, or newcomer.Uppermost i n t he minds o f everyone is the genuine fr iendlinessand ready hosp i ta l i t y offered b y the "Sourdoughs. " O n e o f thesurprises is i n t h e gardens o f these residents. N o w h e r e can befound f iner sweet-peas, dahlias, asters, stocks, or pansies, or suchraspberries, cu r ran ts , strawberr ies, b lueberr ies a n d vegetables.

W H I T E PA S S A N D Y U K O N R O U T EThose who wish to journey fur ther in to the Yu k o n and Alaska

can a t Skagway take the Wh i te Pass and Yu k o n Ra i lway. T h i sis a m o s t spectacular r i d e t h r o u g h magni f i cent scenery. T h esalt fang o f the sea is le f t behind, and our nostr i ls are f i l led w i t hthe sweetness o f lake and mounta in air.

C l imbing up to Glacier Gorge, a t Summi t we leave Amer icanter r i tory and re-enter Canada. A bronze monument , where theflags o f the two countr ies f loat side b y side, marks the boundaryline. F o r a shor t distance we t rave l th rough B r i t i sh Columbia,and then a t Pennington cross i n t o t he Yu k o n Te r r i t o r y. L a k eBennett, wh i ch the ra i lway fo l lows f o r twenty-seven miles, is along, n a r r o w l a k e o f b lue, bounded b y moun ta ins o f old-rosecolor. A s t h e t r a i n approaches Carcross, t h e t rave l le r crossesthe m o s t n o r t h e r l y sw ing b r idge o n t h e Amer i can Con t i nen t ,over the outlet of Lake Bennett into Nares Lake. Lewes and otherl i t t le lakes a re f o u n d a n d t h e n M i l e s C a n y o n a n d t h e W h i t eHorse Rapids.

As we stand on the b r i n k o f this wor ld- famed gorge, picturesof the o ld days rise before ou r eyes. B o l d adventurers on ra f tsand i n i l l - b u i l t boats are wh i r led i n t o sw i f t , dangerous wa te rsin the i r mad rush to the K lond ike .

11111101.110L'Allit S •-LIMBIA C O A S T S E R V I C E

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•04.,

Page Seven

In W h i t e Horse—about a n hou r ' s w a l k d i s tan t—the f a i n t ,continuous roar o f the rap ids reaches t h e ear qu i t e p l a i n l y o nsti l l days. W h i t e Horse is a busy l i t t l e c i t y located on the westbank o f F i f t y - M i l e R i v e r ( w h i c h i s a lso k n o w n as t h e LewesRiver and sometimes termed the Upper Yukon) . A s at Skagway,there is excellent hotel accommodation. I t is the terminus of theRai lway Div is ion o f the Wh i te Pass and Yu k o n Rou te—and thepoint o f departure f o r t h e magni f icent s teamer t r i p d o w n t h eYukon t o Dawson b y the same company's route.

Giant towers a n d bast ion- l ike pro ject ions o f red r o c k s tandsentinel a long the western shore o f Lake Labarge—whi le on theeast, g rea t g ray, rounded h i l l s o f l imestone, ve ined and shadedwi th t h e green o f spruce, a l te rna te w i t h deep, wooded va l leysand the picturesque mouths o f rivers.

F i v e - F i n g e r O n th rough t h e splendid scenery o f T h i r t y - M i l eR a p i d s R i v e r a n d t h e Lewes, w e come t o o n e o f t h e

most t h r i l l i ng experiences o f the ent i re t r i p — t h eshooting o f F ive-Finger Rapids. H e r e the r i ve r narrows t o 150yards. F i v e g rea t h u l k s o f stone r ise t o a he igh t o f f o r t y t oseventy feet. T h e waters rush foaming between. O u r steamer,guided by its ski l l ful pi lot , glides swi f t ly through, almost touchingthe stone walls in i ts passage.

R ink Rap ids , s i x mi les be low, g ives a second experience o fthis exc i t ing f o r m o f nav igat ion. A t F o r t S e l k i r k begins t h eYukon R iver proper—which is formed b y the union o f the Lewesand the Pel ly.

The surg ing waters have c u t t h r o u g h t h e lower spurs o f agreat mounta in range. F o r a hundred and f i f t y mi les the steamerplies this route of ever-changing scenic grandeur. W i n d i n g aroundand between countless islands, a t t imes runn ing close under the

Photozrap* oy Snceior Panoramic Co.

Photo—Peueroen nros.Black Bear Cub, Seward, Alaska

- " r " " lAZ I I,OLLIMBIA C O A S T S E R ' '_'-'201•1111112 INNIINNAMEW•=711.711-112L

lee o f huge gran i te c l i f fs—now passing the swift , foaming Whi teRiver, where i t ming les w i t h t h e Yu k o n — t h e n S tewar t R i v e rand Ind ian River—there is not a single mile o f the way but jho ldsv iv id in terest . T h e t r i p f r o m W h i t e Ho rse t o Dawson takesabout for ty-e ight hours; the return journey takes about four days.

D a w s o n D a w s o n , once t h e focus o f the wor ld 's greatest go ldrush, i s now b u t a shadow o f i ts fo rmer g lo ry. I t is

beaut i fu l ly situated on a bend o f the Yukon River, an up-to-date,wel l -bui l t a n d wel l - regulated c i t y, w i t h m a n y f ine homes a n dcomfortable hotels, and p re t t y f lower gardens. G o o d roads makepossible m a n y au tomob i le t r i p s t o sur round ing hyd rau l i c a n ddredge m i n i n g operat ions. T h e l i te rary - inc l ined c a n m a k e apilgrimage t o t h e cab in occupied b y R o b e r t W . Serv ice, t h e" K i p l i n g o f the Yu k o n , " dur ing his long residence in Dawson.

From Dawson the steamers o f the A laska-Yukon Nav iga t ionCompany can be taken down the Yu k o n R ive r to Fo r t Yu k o nwhere the A rc t i c Circ le is crossed and where the phenomenon o fthe M i d n i g h t Sun can a t the proper season o f the year be st r ik-ingly w i tnessed—Tanana, R u b y a n d S t . M i c h a e l . A l a s k a i sre-entered a t Eagle. F r o m S t . M i c h a e l t h e A laska SteamshipCompany has a service across N o r t o n Sound t o Nome, anotherfamous min ing town, in the Seward Peninsula.To F r o m Skagway t o Carcross, and thence through a chainA t l i n o f sapphire lakes, moun ta in a n d forest-g i r t , e i gh ty - two

miles t o A t l i n — t h e r e i s a ra re jewel o f a s ide- t r ip ! I ttakes b u t l i t t l e t ime, b u t there is more o f sheer beau ty packedinto t ha t short distance than can be found in any other place inthe world.

Wind ing through Nares or Tag ish Lake the steamer traversesW i n d y Arm, to enter Ta k u Arm, a beauti ful sheet of water, almostcompletely s h u t i n b y t h e m o s t i nsp i r i ng m o u n t a i n scenery.A splendid view is afforded o f Jubilee Mounta in , which reaches itssnow-crowned head i n t o t h e c louds. A f t e r s teaming t h r o u g hbeaut i ful Go lden G a t e a n d u p Ta k u I n l e t , t h e b o a t makes alanding at Ta k u , where a short portage by ra i l along the bank ofroaring A t l i n t o o R i v e r b r ings t h e t ou r i s t t o t h e west shore o fA t l i n Lake.

The Royal M a i l in Win te r

On an A t l i n Fox Farm

Page E i g h t

Plado---1,. C. Read

-7 -

A Skagway Flower Garden

Here connection is made w i t h the new twin-screw motor -boatwhich makes t h e s ix-mi le r u n across A t l i n L a k e t o A t l i n C i t y .A t l i n i s t h e base o f suppl ies f o r one o f t h e r ichest h y d r a u l i cmining camps in B r i t i sh Columbia.

Near the boat landing, and facing the lake w i t h i n a few feetof the shore, i s t h e A t l i n I n n , b u i l t a n d main ta ined especial lyfor tour i s ts b y t h e W h i t e Pass a n d Y u k o n R o u t e . F r o m i t swindows a magnif icent v i ew may be had o f the A t l i n Moun ta insacross Lake A t l i n , a moun ta in lake o f surpassing beauty. T h etour ist w i l l f i n d t h e A t l i n I n n v e r y i n v i t i n g , t h e cu is ine a n dservice excel lent. A s t a y here f o r a d a y o r so, o r f o r severalweeks, w i l l add great ly to the pleasure o f the A t l i n t r i p . ( R a t e s ,European plan, f rom $2.00 per day. )

There is an indescribable tonic effect in the A t l i n c l imate tha twi l l e ven tua l l y m a k e i t o n e o f t h e w o r l d ' s g reates t s u m m e rhealth resorts. N u m e r o u s side tr ips may be taken by automobile,steamer, launch o r on foo t t o many points of interest. A m o n g s tthese are the placer gold mines, the fox farm, the Wa r m Springs,and t h e I n d i a n Vi l lage; and wherever one goes, one w i l l f i nd aprofusion o f beau t i fu l w i l d f lowers i n a l m o s t endless v a r i e t y.Then, too, there are del ight fu l walks along the shores.

The one even t o f t he t r i p t o A t l i n i s t h e excursion o n t h e"Ta rahne . " F o r abou t f o r t y mi les t he boa t is w ind ing i t s w a ythrough t h e n a r r o w moun ta i n - r i bbed passages o f t h e W e s tChannel. T h e b o a t t h e n passes o u t t h r o u g h C o p p e r I s l a n dNarrows, and t h e r e t u r n i s made d o w n t h e o the r s ide o f theseislands on L a k e A t l i n , where a magni f icent v i e w is obta ined o fLlewel lyn G lac ie r a n d t h e Coas t Range. O u t o f t h e g lac ier,seemingly, a r ise m o u n t a i n peaks t h a t s t a n d l i k e sent inels o nguard.

When t h e w a t e r i s smooth , a s i t f r equen t l y i s , a n d o n i t ssurface are mirrored the van-colored verdure-clad hi l ls and snow-crowned mounta ins w i t h the i r cathedral- l ike spires, t he scene isof such sub l ime beau ty a n d grandeur t h a t t o describe i t werefuti le. A n d these ref lect ions a r e n o t seen mere ly f o r a m i l e o rso, bu t mile after mile. Those who l ike fishing wi l l have an oppor-t un i t y t o t r y the i r l u c k a t land ing l a k e t r o u t , whi tef ish o r t h esmaller bu t gamy grayl ing.

o t i o n c o m e r o m m o r m r o v l a t u m n i k r t . : L a m m . 1K-a411t_ BRITISH C O L L I M B l i A . C O A S T S E R V I C I

On are Wh i te Pass and Yu k o n Rai lway

The Yu k o n Boundary L ine Between Tw o Good Friends

Ta k u Glacier

Page I l i n e

-Isamemzegogir ! E s e s = , ! ,;. N P F 1A L U M

The Saw-Tooth Range

Washing Down Mounta ins o f Gold

--0Alklm"•

Photo—Winter-Pond

e

From To Hours Naut ica l M i lesVancouver Aler t B a y 14 183Aler t Bay Prince Ruper t 22 287Prince Ruper t Ketch ikan 8 101Ketch ikan Wrangel l 7 99Wrangel l Juneau 11 148Juneau Skagway 8 100

MAIMS- IA C O A S T S E R V I C E, f . " V - - - 2 0 - 7 M 1 g - S k - A

We s t A n o t h e r beaut i fu l scenic t r i p is tha t to West Ta k uTa k u A r m A r m . I t has been especially arranged fo r the con-

venience o f passengers who are mak ing the roundt r ip t o Skagway o n t h e "P r incess " steamers o f t he Canad ianPacific R a i l w a y, a n d w h o cannot spare suff icient t i m e t o ava i lthemselves o f one o f the m a n y other tours over the W h i t e Pass,and i t gives these passengers an oppor tun i ty of seeing a max imumnumber o f points o f interest i n the short t ime a t the i r disposal.I t i s a j ou rney w h i c h takes t h e v i s i t o r i n t o t h e v e r y hea r t o fpr imeval surroundings, where g ian t mounta ins raise the i r l o f t ypeaks f rom the g l i t te r ing glacial waters o f the A r m , wh ich endsat w h a t m i g h t be termed the " b a c k d o o r " o f the wor ld- famousTa k u Glacier.

The route fol lowed is the same as to A t l in, except tha t insteadof t u rn ing t o t h e eastward t o Ta k u Land ing t h e steamer con-tinues u p t h e head o f Ta k u A r m i n t o We s t Ta k u A r m . T h esteamer arr ives here abou t e igh t - th i r t y i n t h e evening and l iesover un t i l about f ive the next morning. T h e t r i p f rom Skagwayto We s t Ta k u A r m a n d re tu rn i s made i n abou t t h i r t y hours.I t is an extremely interest ing and wor th-whi le t r ip .

N O T E S O N S T E A M E R S , C U S T O M S A N D B A G G A G E*1:Princess Al ice * P r i n c e s s Louise

Gross tonnage 3 0 9 9 . 2 2 4 2 0 0 . 0 0Net tonnage 1 9 0 3 . 8 0 2 4 4 8 . 6 5Length 2 8 9 3 3 0W i d t h 4 6 4 8Depth 1 7 1 8 . 6

*Wireless telegraph. 1 B u r n fuel oi l .

A naut ical mi le is equivalent to 1.15 statute miles.Intended sailings are from Vancouver on June 10th, 17th, 24th,

Ju ly 1st , 5 th, 12th, 15th, 22d, 26th, Augus t 2d, 5 th , 12th, 16th,23d, 26th , and September 2d. S a i l i n g hour, 9.00 p.m.

Steamer sails also f rom Vic to r ia on day previous to dates men-tioned, a t 11.00 p .m.

Passengers should provide themselves w i th a good, warm top-coat and a pa i r o f wa lk ing shoes. T h e general weather is ve ryfine and warm, b u t a good cover ing f o r the evening o r a dampday i s ve r y desirable. T h e Company does n o t supp ly steamerrugs, b u t has arranged to carry on the steamers a l im i ted supplyof rugs t h a t w i l l be rented t o passengers fo r the round t r i p a t anominal charge. A t rave l l ing rug is very desirable, a l though notabsolutely necessary. H o w e v e r , l a d y passengers general ly de -r ive m u c h c o m f o r t f r o m a good steamer rug . T h e C o m p a n ydoes n o t supp ly t he regulat ion ocean l iner deck cha i r, b u t sup-plies comfor tab le camp chairs w i t h backs , f r ee o f charge. Abarber is carried on all steamers.

The meals prov ided on A laska steamers are breakfast, lunch,and dinner, and, in addi t ion, l i gh t refreshments are served in thedining saloon a t n igh t w i t hou t extra charge.

Victrolas, w i t h a su i tab le supp l y o f records, a r e p laced o nCanadian Pacif ic steamers to Alaska.

Passengers en te r i ng A l a s k a f r o m C a n a d a a r e requ i red t opass t h e cus tomary U n i t e d S ta tes I m m i g r a t i o n Inspec t ion a tKetchikan, t h e p o r t o f en t ry. T h i s inspect ion i s n o t s t r i c t sofar as bona fide tour is ts are concerned. Passengers w i l l be askedby purser for certain in format ion regarding age, place of residence,business, etc., f o r use in mak ing up the manifest required by theImmigra t ion Depar tment , and wi l l be given a card b y him. T h i scard is presented by holder to immigrat ion inspector, who boardssteamer on arr ival at Ketch ikan, and as soon as part iculars shown

Page Te n-a11111.131111191V.F I C411M11110•1

y

by purser on manifest are checked by the inspector, the passengeris permi t ted t o go ashore. T h e r e is a s imi lar inspect ion b y t h eCanadian Immig ra t i on Depar tmen t on ar r iva l o f steamer south-bound a t Prince Ruper t . T h e s e inspections are largely formal sofar as tour ists are concerned.

The usual free allowance of one hundred and f i f t y (150) poundsof baggage wi l l be granted on whole t ickets, and seventy-f ive (75)pounds on ha l f t ickets, w i t h customary addi t ional charge on anyexcess weight. S teamer t runks, i f intended for use in staterooms,must n o t be more than fourteen inches in height . A n y steamert runk o f o rd inary w i d t h and leng th can be placed under lowerberth i f the height given is not exceeded.

F R E E S T O R A G E A T S E AT T L E , V I C T O R I AOR V A N C O U V E R

Passengers ho ld ing th rough t ickets, a n d mak ing A laska sidet r ip f r o m Seatt le, V i c t o r i a o r Vancouver, w i l l b e g ran ted f reestorage o f baggage a t t h e C o m p a n y ' s wharves a t t h e p o i n t smentioned f o r n o t more t h a n t h i r t y days. A f t e r exp i ra t ion o fth i r t y -day l im i t , regular storage charges wi l l accrue.

Bonded Baggage—Baggage m a y b e checked t h r o u g h f r o mSeattle t o Skagway, a n d i f n o t requi red en rou te m a y b e fo r -warded u n d e r b o n d t o a v o i d necessi ty o f customs inspect ion.I f baggage is required en route i t should be checked t o Vic to r iaor Vancouver on ly and presented fo r Canadian Customs inspec-t ion before boarding steamer for Alaska. U . S. Customs inspecticnwi l l also be necessary a t Ke tch ikan , t he f i rs t p o r t o f en t ry i n t oAlaska.

Southbound—Canadian Customs baggage inspect ion w i l l b emade a t Pr ince R u p e r t and U . S. Cus toms inspect ion a t Va n -couver ( i f passenger is t rave l l ing east via Canadian Pacif ic Ra i l -way) or at Seattle. Baggage checked f rom Vancouver or Vic tor iato Skagway wi l l be inspected by U. S. Customs officers at Ketch i -kan, o r may be bonded i f desired.

Baggage c a n b e checked t h r o u g h f r o m P u g e t S o u n d a n dBr i t ish Co lumb ia por ts t o A t l i n o r Dawson, v i a the W h i t e Pass

-and Yu k o n Rou te , w i t h o u t undergoing inspect ion b y Cus tomsofficers a t Skagway, p rov ided passengers h o l d t h r o u g h t ickets ,and a f t e r i t is once checked a t s tar t ing po in t passengers are no tannoyed b y Cus toms inspect ion o r rechecking u n t i l a r r i v a l a tdestination, w h e r e a l l baggage f r o m U n i t e d S ta tes p o i n t s i ssubject t o inspection. B a g g a g e or ig inat ing a t B r i t i sh Co lumb iapoints can be corded and sealed and sent through Alaska in bondw thou t inspection. Baggage or ig inat ing a t Un i ted States por ts ,destined t o po in ts i n A l a s k a o n t h e lower Yu k o n R i v e r be lowDawson, can go through to destination in bond wi thout inspection.

H O T E L SFol lowing i s a l i s t o f hote ls a t va r ious po in t s e n r o u t e t o

Alaska, and a t in land points beyond Skagway.Ketch ikan S t e d m a n

Revi l laWrangel l W r a n g e l lJuneau G a s t i n e a u

ZyndaAlaskan

Skagway P u l l e n HouseGolden N o r t hDeweyPort land

Carcross C a r i b o uA t l i n A t l i n I n n

RoyalWhi te Horse W h i t e Pass

CommercialRegina

Dawson R o c h e s t e rRoyal AlexandraYukon iaOccidental

Most o f the above are run on the European p lan , rates f r o m$1.50 up. T h o s e on Amer ican plan, $5.00 up. M e a l s a la carte.

La;

B R I T I S H o - O L U M B I C O A S T S E R V i r

Photo—L. C. Read

The A t l i n Inn, A t l i n

•

4 1 1 1 1 r 7 t .

• , o t , • , a i r • . !

The A t l i n Mounta ins f rom A t l i n I n n

Wcst. To k u Ara

Page Eleven

The " Ta r a h n e , " A t l i n LakeI.

Photo—L. C. Read l o

Llewel lyn Glacier Seen Through the Gorge P h o g o — L . C. Read

Photo—I_ C. Read

Mi les Canyon, near Whi te Horse

Finger Rapids, Yu k o n River

On the Yu k o n River, near Dawson

P a g e i Twelve

Dawson

Camp En Route to Dawson

Mounta in Sheep Shot nearTagish, Yu k o n

Printed in U. S. A.Poole Bros. Chicago

41