Notes from Robert Jones WorkshopInternational Makeup Artist

Updated: 4/09 by Brigitte Iglay, Sr. Sales Director

I love the Go-Give in Mary Kay and all of the wonderful folks who share. I had to update my notes so I thought I’d share them. Robert keeps most information in segments, however as we actually do the hands on part or when questions are asked, that information I put in with the topics to keep things mainstreamed.My thinking is it will be easy to use for any event we do.

ThoughtsEvery consultant needs training with Robert Jones. Attend again after each Mary Kay major product change. I have seen Robert many times and each time I learn something new and my memory is refreshed on techniques. We learn by repetition.In the last 8-9 years Robert has been busy writing and publishing amazing books along with enhancing his computer program. Therefore our notes do not have to be as detailed because we can reference his books and program. Download workshop product sheets from Robert’s site. Great tool to reference too; keep in your color sampler. Also print off certificate of completion if you wish to show your customers. Mary Kay Corporation has also come out with a wonderful simplified Advance color program called Color Insider along with DVD training; In Touch training and our own amazing, award winning website. The clear instruction sheets are terrific to show customers. We are so blessed.About RobertLove art all of his life. Received scholarship to go to art school at age 11. He forged his signature to go to Performing Arts school for theater and dance. Found he loved to work on real people. Grew up in a household of women!Robert tests all products from every market; works internationally, works with product development with Mary Kay CosmeticsMake up Artists are artists. Therefore the beauty is in the eye of the beholder. There are only two things makeup artist agree on: One is they disagree with each other; second, the color which makes the woman feel beautiful is the right color. Today Robert is known world wide in the makeup industry as an International and Celebrity make up artist. (Crow, Burke, Dixie Chicks etc. Macey, Sacs, Lord and Taylor, etc. many magazines and TV shows) Ranked as Top 10 Nationwide ArtistMK Product development assistant; Robert does all of the commercials for us. Wow, Wow, Wow! Thank you Robert!

STATS shared at April 2009 Valley Forge Workshop; hosted by NSD Sandy Valerio Mary Kay made the decision in 2002 to make our line be “artist driven” This makes it easy to work internationally. We have the longest staying crème lipstick. If it is not staying on then the woman is licking or biting her lips. We are the number 1 selling lipstick in 2006 and 2007 (2008 numbers aren’t announced yet)

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Just announced: Revlon has been the number 1 selling lipstick for over 40 years and in 2007 for the first time ever they were outsold. We did that! This is super HUGE. Estee Lauder owns 13 lines of makeup and it took all of them to do 2.7 billion to our 2.4 million in 2006. 2007 Estee which is 13 lines sold $2.7 billion; MK which is 1 line sold $2.3 billion. First time our color sales are higher each quarter and almost sell as much as our skin cares. Department stores worldwide only sold 17% of cosmetics. Rest is by independent companies.

TIPS & TRENDS for 2009 Color cosmetics are an emotional buy; tempt the women Show your own before picture and say: Isn’t it great to know that I need Mary Kay also?

Clothing is an accessory to me; make up is an accessory to me; make up is NOT an accessory to clothes! Color draping was in the 80’s – leave it there!

Two, three, four eye colors, cheeks or bronzers put into one case are for eye appeal. They are not meant to be used all together at one time. Duets may be used at the same time or together. Sweep over the colors. Ex. Bronzers

Mary Kay Corp. is way ahead of trends. When foundations were changed to the numbering system which is how makeup artists work, MK was 7 years ahead of the times.

Tools – make sure they are good quality and clean them. May use shampoo, rinse and a touch of conditioner. Best is to use professional brush cleaners.

LOOK book – it is now a fashion forward magazine; trendy, informative and fun With today’s fashion, no matter what is shown in the LOOK book, use a matt midtone.

Using complimentary opposites in color is the hot trend for lips Use 2 different eyeliner colors with the darkest shade on top; more fun color on the bottom; hot trend Ultimate is best mascara on the market MK Classic Blond eyebrow pencil is used by all makeup artists MK Highlighting Pen is the best on the market; only one for Bronze/Ebony; Loose Powder best on the market; milled 5X

SPECIAL SKIN CONDITIONS2

FACIAL MASKING

Bronze & Ebony Skin – when a person has a lighter area in the center of the face and darker areas at edges due to a higher build up of dermis in the outer perimeter of the face. Primarily found in bronze and ebony skin tones.

this may take 2 shades of foundation to fix; looking for one common one

Dark areas will need a golden orange undertone to lighten - brighten (xx7)

Lighter areas will need warm brown undertone to deepen (xx8)

When stripe testing, there will be a 2 point difference between areas, ex. Level 5 and 7. Blend to a 6.

The attempt is to slightly lighten dark area and lighten the deeper area. You are looking for two shades that when put on opposite color will look the same. Aim to have same tone all over then highlight.

Hypo-pigmentation/ pregnancy masking/ port-wine areas

Apply directly to the area of discoloration – use a concealer brush. Color within the lines!!!!! Or you just re-create the problem

Dark under eye circles

Apply concealer just to the area of demarcation and blend up (Apply only on dark area … “within the lines”)

Dot on with a brush (retractable Lip brush works great) and then stipple with fingers to blend. Finger powder to finish … very important! If shade “goes darker” uses lighter powder.

if severely dark, use yellow concealer (may need to follow with Ivory)

match to skin tone

Do this before foundation / stipple foundation and powder so you don’t rub off your work.

For bronze, use concealer blended with 507 or 607.

SCAR

A scar is an area of skin without pores.

First, apply moisturizer to area, then loose powder, then apply concealer with a brush.

Broken Capillaries and Veins

Must use a tiny brush and apply carefully only to tiny line. Stipple to blend

Covering Acne

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Match concealer to foundation exactly – dot on with brush and blend. Apply AFTER foundation (same shade), then finger powder.

Concealer grabs a hold of powder more and then will turn darker so avoid putting powder on this area or use a lighter shade

Stay just on blemish, not around.

Red Zit = use a Q-tip and Visine to take the red out

If she has lots of acne, send her to the Dr. so she does not scar. The darker the skin, the easier to scar (scar lasts 2 years+)

Bumps and valleys

Make foundation as matte as possible. No shine! Use Loose Powder!!!

Large Pores

Use TimeWise!!

Use Oil Mattifier to fill in pores and help items to go on better

Mask/microderm

Under eye puffiness

Drink lots of water!!!! Indulge Eye Mask will help!

Apply concealer to under eye dark circles with a brush

Apply foundation to face

Apply high lighting pen to the area under the puffiness which will make it come “out” and stipple to blend

Rosecia

Don’t use TimeWise. Nothing with beads

Must use Classic Basic skin care.

Our color products are good to use

May avoid using blush if cheeks are really red

Use a foundation ending in “0” or “2” = covers and contrasts red. Conceal first if large area (may need yellow concealer)

Masking: Use extra emollient night cream with a washcloth and wash in soft circles; wipe off with wash cloth and rinse.

Psychosis

Moisturize first; gently rub to scrape away skin; conceal; foundation

SPRING 2009 New Mineral Powder Color Training Robert Jones Workshop 04/18/09

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PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

Frosted Eye shadow – Completely covers skin with mica and it completely covers the lines one color. It is not good for older skin. Shows wrinkles. MK does not have any frosted eye colors in our current line. NOTE: Always check the current limited edition items.

Shimmer Eye shadow – Specs are sheer. Goes on sheerer. Tints the skin. Does not collect. Ours are carrying the “name – pearl”. Layer the color; Eyesciles are shimmers.

Shimmers are more dramatic than midtones

Can layer Eyesicles under eye color for more intense color

Matte – No sheen, most natural looking

Color Conversion Chart – Online at www.simplebeaute.com & www.robertjonesbeauty.com

Eyesciles – after you apply it use a brush to buff it off

Customer under 12 & over 12 x 4,5,6 …(polite way of saying “older”)

CHOOSING EYE MAKE UP COLORS

Ask: What is your eye color? What is your skin tone? What are you wearing?

Clothes colors – use opposite on color wheel to make your eyes pop more. Ex. Blue eyes, blue top, use browns and golds for eyes

#1 Eye Color

You want to choose a color that contrasts your eye color

Grey eyes are really pale in color; have dark circle around them. Need depth around them to make them glow

Hazel eyes are a combination of colors so you should pick the color you want to bring out Green/Brown or Blue/Green)

Amber eyes should be considered green when choosing colors; makes eyes pop

Brown – have a party!!!

Two different eye colors – pick the one you want!

Layer colors and blend, blend, blend.

#2 Skin Tone

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Depending on the depth of skin tone you will choose colors at a different depth level as well. (Paler for pale skin, more intense for darker skin)

#3 What you are wearing

Put on your makeup as though you are wearing white and then layer a color that complements the color you are wearing over it.

EYE COLOR:

You’ll want 3 shades:1. Highlight only on the lid and under the brow (play with different highlight colors)

2. Midtone up and all the way across the inside of the crease – it’s likely to be the most boring color. Work “outside to inside” blending. Lower lash too if desired. This is the most important color because it shapes the eye. Extension of our skin.

3. Accent is the fun color and should be used 1/3 to ½ of the way across the midtone. It is the wedge that sits on top of the midtone. Apply along the lower lash line and connect to top of lid. Apply over eye liner to hold or set liner.

Uneven eyes – work to create a “match” eyes instead of making one like the other.

Use Robert’s or Color Insider easy eye charts for color placement

Droopy eye keep color open ended; do not connect color on end

GLASSES

If prescription magnifies – less is more

If prescription diminishes – more is more

If prescription doesn’t cause a change, there is no change.

EYELINERS

Ours are waterproof and can be dunked in water and not come off

Keep moisturizer away from eyelashes

If it won’t go on your eyelid smoothly, it needs warmed up between your fingers

You can sharpen them on paper or on the back of your hand

To prevent color travelling, you can powder foundation and powder concealer under eye or powder over the liner to keep it in place. Use the finger method for powder.

If you line along your bottom lashes you must line along your top or your face will drag

Eyeliners are only for the eye

Liquid is the most dramatic, and should only be used on the top

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Define the bottom lashes if you have under eye puffiness

No black eyeliner after “12” – make better choices to warm up look for more YOUTHFUL look!

If you line on bottom you must do the top.

If you line on top, you may skip the bottom

Lining in wet eye tissue area makes your eyes look smaller; eye ducts get clogged and you need super BIG eyes to make this work. Not recommended!

EYE POPPING is taking a darker color best in browns or black on a stiff brush and pushing the color up in between the eye lashes. This is great for very hooded eyes.

EYE LASHES

Curl, Curl, Curl – close the curler; walk it out; close walk out again

Mascara wand: Hold wand vertically for length

Mascara wand: Hold wand horizontally and move side to side and up for volume

Curl BEFORE mascara

HOT curler, curl AFTER mascara

FALSE LASHES Great video on Robert’s website

Curl your natural lashes

Line your lid

Look down in the mirror

Cut off two tufts of the lashes

Use surgical adhesive along the line you made

Place lashes with tweezers onto the adhesive

Follow with mascara

BROWS

We have the best eyebrow pencil in the industry

Classic blonde is lighter and blonde is darker and taupe

Brunette is the perfect shade for brunettes, it is directly between blonde and chestnut

Soft Black is more of a dark brown (no woman should use a pure black; too aging)

Soft Auburn is good for natural or chosen redheads; it is a light golden brown; good for brunettes with red highlights in their hair

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The sharper the pencil the better the application

Warm the pencil in between your fingers; can also sharpen that by rolling in between 2 fingers

Powder under eye to prevent eyeliner from travel; use finger powder method

Powder on top of eye brow pencil will keep the color on longer

Line eye with midtone color; add pencil liner over it; add accent color over it and powder on top as needed. Keeps color on.

Silver grey should use classic blonde or blonde

Bronze/Ebony should use brunette

It is better to go lighter than darker with your eyebrows

Match your hair color if it is a different shade from your eyebrows

Choose to LOVE them as they are!!! - fuller brows look younger!

Can fill in with eye shadow; use matt color

Graying eyebrows will work best tinted

No Eyebrows due to age or chemo – teach them the 3 points of eyebrow and brushing

Then blend by moving your brush up and down

Tinting - Graying eyebrows – if the eyeliner pencil and eye shadow don’t cover enough or have enough staying power, then get the eye brows tinted.

MASCARA

The football shape is the most versatile brush shape (in our ultimate mascara) it lengthens and thickens the lashes

Ultimate mascara makes them thicker, fatter and longer

Lash Lengthening conditions with vitamins, but it is not as building

Waterproof is triathalon tested; waterproof means it can be submerged in water.

You can layer waterproof over the others to make them more waterproof

You should change your mascara every three months. Ultimate should be changed every 2 months because building mascaras dry out faster

If your customer does not use it all the time, consider giving them disposable wands to use so that they do not put bacteria into their container and have to throw it out as soon.

Smart Wipe leaves more on the brush. If you want to layer you should wipe some off of the wand

Anytime mascara flakes it is time to get a new tube

If you have sparse lashes, don’t use mascara on them, smudge liner there instead.8

Powder foundation under eye area.

Avoid moisturizer getting on eyelashes

If you smudge; let it dry; comes right off

Lashes are 80% of your eye makeup

BLUSH

Designed to add color to your face and brighten

Wakes up the face

Smile; feel the cheekbone; place the blush on the bone

Apply with brush from closet to the hair line and blend forward, back and up and down in soft sweeps

Bronzers give bronze/ebony women a glow

The color you flush to is the darkest you should go

Sunny Spice is the only blush color staying when the colors change

Use Sandstone Bronzer for warmer cheeks for 304 & 305

Desert sun is a highlight shade for bronze/ebony

Shy blush and Pink Petal are more peachy – great on bronze skin

Strawberry cream is a peachy pink

Start at the place where the top of your ear meets your head

Pull down to the middle of your apple; Pull back up to your ear

LIPSAsk: What are you looking for in lipstick? Something bright? Neutral? Deep?

For ivory/beige: avoid intense eye & lip at the same time Every woman will want a variety of lip colors

LIP COLOR TIPSKiss Proof

Conceal lipLine lips and fill in entire line

Lip Color Tissue and blot Lip Color again Gloss in center

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For a wow: fill in lip half way to center of lip and add lighter lip color or gloss there.LIP PENCILS

Use to “reshape”, keep lips from bleeding, help lip color last longer, builds lips; adds color

Dark Chocolate and Cappuccino are for bronze and ebony skin only

Have fun with these; mix and match with lipsticks and lip glosses

LIPSTICK

We have one of the longest wearing lipsticks on the market

Downtown Brown, Rick Cocoa, Rich Fig are all for bronze/ebony skin

If your MK Crème lip color doesn’t stay on – you are “biting or licking it off!!!!!

Choosing Lipstick Shades

To create older look for younger gal – use darker color

To create younger for those past 12 – use brighter & more color

Layering colors gives you endless amount of options

#1 Lip Size and Shape

Dark shades are thinning

Light shades make your lips look fuller

#2 Depth of Skin Tone

Brighter, warmer shades will make you look younger

Darker colors are more aging

Choose a lighter color for fairer skin and deeper for darker skin

#3 What you are wearing

Don’t always need to match what you are wearing Sometimes contrasting is good – hot trend in 2009 It’s ok to wear red lips with red clothing Some shades are for layering and are meant to change your other lip colors: Sheer

Blush, Mocha Freeze, Golden (warmer) and Pink Shimmer (mute)

Ivory/Beige10

Sheer blush on top lightens

Mocha freeze mutes the brightness

Golden warms things up

Pink Shimmer mutes

Bronze/Ebony

Mocha Freeze – lightens and brightens

Amber Glow – mutes

Golden – warms

Sweet Nectar – warms and lightens

Pink Shimmer – mutes & lightens

Wear layering shades over lipstick for more change

Wear layering shades under lipstick for less change

There are 3 types of lip color: Crème (looks natural), Shimmer (sheer) and Frost (opaque)

If colors “shift” you have high PH in your skin & it shifts to a different color. Use Opposite color to shift it to what you want! Ex: If shifts to pink – go to opposite: orange it’ll shift to neutral. More orange it’ll shift a bit more to pink.

Use concealer to erase the lip line before lip colors to make them look bigger

If you want to keep gloss from bleeding, put lip primer AROUND the lip line and not inside it.

If you want to keep your lipstick on longer, apply primer on and around the lips

People who have a lot of lip lines can stain their lips by applying color to their finger and patting it onto their lips.

Using a lip brush always gives the best look and staying power

Neutral – shell or toffee top with cream & sugar gloss

Sunset with cream & sugar

Hibiscus and sweet nectar

Have FUN mixing and playing with lipsticks, glosses and liners

Glosses: sugarberry is too purple for ivory/beige

BRONZERS:

Sandstone and Bronze Diva are matte and add warmth and even out the skin tone

Matte look more natural on ivory/beige skin 11

Good for contouring

Shimmer is great for bronze/ebony skin and adds natural highlights

Use Sandstone Bronzer for warmer cheeks for 304 & 305

Desert Sun and Canyon Gold are shimmers

Desert Sun is great highlighting shade on bronze and ebony

Can be used on eye lids for a natural summer glow on any skin tone

Can use the light or the dark depending on the season and your skin tone

When used on Ivory/beige skin tones, bronzers provide a sun-kissed effect.  Apply where the sun would naturally hit your face:  top of forehead, cheeks nose, shoulders and décolleté. 

HIGHLIGHT POWDERS 

Pink Porcelain is matte and strictly for ivory/beige skin

Pink Stardust is shimmer and is ok for ivory to bronze skin

Shimmer attracts attention to flaws and large pores

Pink Stardust can be used on brow bone as a highlighter

Powder will not reflect light like our highlighting pen. The pen is used for recessed areas only!

Apply either shade to the area of the face you want to highlight:  tops of cheekbones, down center of the nose, above the center of the upper lip (gives lips a pouty look).

Use Pink Porcelain only on areas you want to brighten.  The facial highlighting pen is used on recessed areas only. Apply:

under eyes to brighten

at sides of nose below the lower lip at the crease of the chin to make lips pout On the chin if you have a heart-shaped face to help make the chin look wider and balance

the face

Concealing / Foundation / Contouring / Highlighting

FIRST – Prepare the skin

CONCEALERS:

Concealers are highly pigmented; use very little

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Conceal in the demarcation lines and blend up; always stipple

Conceal right on the dark spots – individually.

Yellow counteracts anything red, brown, purple. Everyone has yellow in his or her skin so when in doubt, go with yellow

Not kind to skin, highlights wrinkles so only use a small amount on discolored areas only. Small amount!!!

If use too much, looks dry and cakey

“Tube type” concealer is the most moisturizing!

CONCEALING

Color inside the lines Stipple, Stipple, Stipple For a scar apply moisturizer, powder and then concealer Conceal blemishes after foundation With Acne scars, keep the skin very matte and do not use shimmer in her blush With Rosacia, conceal the general area and then conceal spots you missed Freckles need sheer coverage (Angel Kisses are freckles) Under eye puffiness: Apply foundation and then highlighting pen by shadow Under eye circle: Conceal, then apply foundation, then highlighting pen if needed Use Oil Mattifier “warmed up in palm of hand” then put on pores – tap on – to help fill in

large poresFreckles

They are “angel kisses” … don’t try to “conceal” … foundation should match skin … not freckle.

HIGHLIGHTING PENS

Reflect light; brings item forward

The BEST on the market; State of the art pigments

First company who has one for bronze/ebony

Bring forward recessed areas of the face Can put on before or after LMPF

Ours is the best highlighting pen and the only one with the newest light reflecting properties

Paint only on the recessed area and blend with your finger

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LOOSE MINERAL POWDERS

Our loose powders are milled 5 times finer = better coverage, doesn’t visibly settle into wrinkles Feels like velvet

Loose powder has more oil absorbers than pressed powders so its good for extra oily people who don’t like a lot of coverage

Use a sponge or puff to push powder into skin, then use a brush to brush off excess.

“Finger” powder under eye area “Dip - dust off excess - then trace over skin area”

Can apply powder under your eyes using finger method to set concealer: Dip finger into loose powder, tap off, rub on hand and smooth under the eyes.

Use after foundation and before blush.

Get better setting of makeup with powder = use in AM when getting ready.

May use Loose Mineral Powder Foundation as your loose powder. However, use less of it.

Beige 1 is for 300’s usually

Beige 2 is for 400’s usually

Use ivory 1 more than ivory 2

SHEER MINERAL PRESSED POWDER 

Not to be used as a foundation

Not for Coverage

It is only for setting foundation and touch up during day

Always blot before you powder

All natural mineral (always was)

LOOSE MINERAL POWDER FOUNDATION

Tap some in the lid, then swirl your brush in it, tap on the lid to remove the excess, apply on skin in little circles

The more you buff, the more it blends

Do not need loose powder with it

Trick – dump a little into lid; then blend

Cornstarch vs. Talc

Cornstarch is cheap and grainy; Talc is mineral, ground, silky and medicinal14

Use big brush over face to buff it out

MUST prep skin for this foundation

Tinted moisturizer and then LMPF is gorgeous

With our foundations our customers will have 4 lines to choose from:

1) TimeWise Foundations

2) Loose Mineral Powder Foundations

3) Cream to Powder

4) Day Radiance Cream Foundation for very dry skin, #1

5 Keys:

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1. Contain Vitamins

2. Contain the TimeWise complex

3. Transfer resistant (not proof)

4. Oil free

5. Layerable

6. Foundations have ultramarine blue pigments = the most expensive you can get!!!!!!!

7. Comparable only to a European brand that sells for over $100+

8. They are brighter, fresher, younger, flawless

STRIPE TESTING–

To determine proper color.

Do this every 6 months to yourself and your customers. You may not need a change … but you will not know unless you “stripe test”.

Let stripe test area dry 30sec – 2 minutes. A MUST!!!

Color may seem bright at first, wait for it to sink in.

Stripe test in true light . . . day light is best. Can buy “daylight” bulbs or “daylight balance” bulbs. (Buy aluminum light with clamp from “Home Depot” … put in “daylight bulb” ... now you can have daylight in your customers kitchen … any time of day with your traveling light!)

Ott light is true

Place light to be even above & below or side by side for balance in light

Depth level – how light or dark something appears

Example: 300 too dark, 200 too light, use 202

504 is for bronze who has mixed ethnicity

APPLICATION

Damp sponge is best. Using a Sponge will fix ANY application issues … use a “spray bottle to “spray” the sponge with wetness. Use a new sponge every MONTH … Cleansed tools will give you a better application.

Wash sponge after EVERY use. The cleaner the tool, the better the application

The higher the foam rubber content, the better for gliding on.

Fingers … Wash hands after applying Concealer

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If applying foundation with fingers WASH THEM FIRST

Brush (to reapply over existing makeup) Wash after every use.

Using a foundation brush, foundation can be applied over foundation on the face. Using your fingers doesn’t work.

FOUNDATION COVERAGE  Ask first: “What do you want our end result to be?” … that will help determine

foundation options! Ask: What does my skin need? What finish do I need?

Medium foundation gives best oil absorber

From most sheer to most coverageTinted Moisturizer

Loose Mineral Powder

Medium Coverage

Full Coverage

Day Radiance

Crème to Powder

Most Coverage

FOUNDATION First number is the depth level

The last two digits denote the undertone

It is always our goal to match the neck. Most women with pink or redness in the face do not have it in their neck

Our foundations are transfer resistant, which means that you have to let it dry before judging the color

Our foundation is very buildable. Can keep adding layers where needed

Bronze to Ebony need to be striped from the cheek to jaw

Ivory Beige need to be striped over the jaw and neck

Only true daylight bulbs will give you a true idea of the color choices (or stand in daylight)

If the person tans some, may burn first but tans, color ends in 04

If the person tans easily they are an olive skin tone ends in 02

If the person is pink in the face and in the neck they need a color ending in 04

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04 typically just burn

If the person is pink in the neck and not in the face they need a color ending in 05

Orange Undertone ends in 07

Brown Undertone ends in 08

If you sweat (personal summer moments) – loose mineral powder is his suggestion

Full coverage has more water in it.

Medium coverage has oil absorbers in it.

 CONTOURING

(Oval stops at the tip of the chin) Need 3 colors – regular shade, highlight shade (1 level lighter), contour shade (1 level

darker)

Can do with LMPF

On bronze skin it is best to highlight with foundation

Use highlight inside the “oval” of the face

Use Contour outside the “oval” of the face

Ivory/Beige needs more contouring

Bronze/Ebony needs more highlighting

For Facial Masking apply 3 shades across the cheek. Find 2 colors: one that makes an area on her light skin the same as one of the striped areas on her darker skin

Put the darker shade on her light skin and the lighter shade on her dark skin

Under chin: matte – just on jaw line

“Derma blend” is for severely scared – because it is considerable “dryer” product & will adhere more.

MORE CONTOURING

Oval = the perfect face shape = symmetric.

You can contour and highlight to make any face shape appear oval.

Width of oval is width of outside eye sockets. Highlight inside the oval and contour low points outside the oval. Done with 2 or 3 shades of foundation of same shade.

It takes 3 shades of foundation – or Loose Powders (applied with sponge or puff) or use bronze sands to contour

1.Use your ideal shade all over.

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2.Apply a shade lighter on highlight areas (or a lighter loose powder)

3.Apply darker shade in contour areas (or bronze sands cheek color used in contour areas)

Highlighting – brings things out. Contouring – pushes things back

To create the oval on your face:

Highlight high points inside of the oval,

Contour low points outside the oval.

Ivory/Beige = need to contour more than highlight.

Bronze/Ebony = need to highlight more than contour

Ex. If a 300. First apply 300 all over face.

Highlight with 200 (shade lighter),

Contour with 400 (shade darker) Dot at cheek and blend down and out

Never highlight a long face; do popping on cheek

See Robert Jones book for map on face of where to highlight

(under eyes, chin, forehead, nose), contour (temples, sides of face, over eyes)

FACE SHAPES

(don’t really need to know these – just remember to contour outside the oval and highlight inside)

Round = shorter, fairly wide. Full cheeks, round chin. Stays younger looking longest

Square = same width at forehead, cheek, and jaw, Contour 4 corners

Heart Shaped = broader at temples and cheeks, an upside down triangle

Pear = narrow at temple, broader at cheek and jaw, cheekbones wider than forehead

Long = DO NOT highlight and not much contour. Do more cheek color. . . pop apples - will shorten the face

Hollowed cheeks ... don’t contour . . . those people need to eat and gain weight!

Puffy Eye don’t Highlight under eyes. Highlight the crease under the puff.

BRUSHES

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For most women the brushes we have are enough. You may wish to add a few or for those who want the all the tools for their eye shape here are the numbers of those brushes. Robert sells these in a package or you may just wish to add one or two brushes.

BASIC EYE 10 13 16 29 30HOODED 10 13 15 16 29DEEP 10 13 16 29 30CLOSE 10 13 16 29 30WIDE 10 13 16 24 29DROOPY 10 13 16 29 30PROMINENT10 13 15 16 27

#1 is an angled eye brow brush#28 is an eye color blending brush#51 is a foundation brush#52 is a concealer brush

BRIDES Previous workshops with Robert

Robert’s bridal books are great. MakeUpMakeOvers: Weddings If you just show the cover which compares with and without makeup, you will do great with sales.Bride wants to look like herself.Bride has to be more dramatic. Suggestion: Morning Bride

Lighting is softer with a blue tint Everything will photograph darker Everything shows more Use warmer shades Define the lash line really well Be light handed

Midday Bride Noon to 3 ish p.m.

Harshest Light; sun is directly above causing eyes to look dark No sheen – keep her matte Highlight should have shimmer One of your three shades should be matte Keep liner as close to lash line as possible Blend A LOT Face the light for pictures Create thick lashes

Late Afternoon From 4 p.m.

Best lighting

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Creates a golden glow Can do stronger color choices Look into the light for photographs Add color to the skin (bronzer or blush is a must) No frost because of the flash (it will reflect) Dramatic eyeliner Rich lips

Evening Bride More defined because of flash Put more color in cheeks Highlighting and contouring are essential False eyelashes are good Smokey eye is ok (nude lip works well with it)

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