Northern Wilds

FREENorthern Wilds is also

available by subscription. See page 3 for details.

June-July 2012 VOL 9, ISSUE 3 For Folks Who Love the North

Adventure Awards

Roll intoSummer

Vote and Win!

Sea ArchesChanterelle Savvy

Lighthouse LegendsNipigon Fishing

2 NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012 3

Whether you are drawn to Lake Superior, the canoe country, the hiking trails, the fi shing lakes or all of the above, you read Northern Wilds because you love this place. And, if you’re like most of us, you en-joy sharing your spe-cial spots (well, maybe not your favorite fi sh-ing holes) with others. Now, we’d like you to help choose the Best of the Northern Wilds to share with our readers.

We’re excited to in-troduce the Best of the Northern Wilds Reader’s Choice Awards. You’ll fi nd the Offi cial Ballot on Page 39, or you can vote online at our website, www.NorthernWilds.com. Enter your picks for the best park, sce-nic overlook, waterfall, canoe route, fall color

trip and more. If you dare, you can even name your favorite fi shing hole! However, you don’t have to

vote in every category to send in the ballot

Everyone who fi lls out an offi cial ballot has a chance to win $500 in class credits at the North House Folk School in Grand Marais, a $50 gift certifi cate to your favorite outdoor store and other great prizes. We’ll con-tinue adding more prizes during the summer, so

become our friend on Facebook or bookmark our website to keep posted on prize off erings. The vot-ing for the 2012 Reader’s Choice Adventure Awards goes through September 30 so our summer and fall readers have an opportunity to cast a ballot.

Sit back with this issue and start thinking. If you were introducing someone to the North Shore and the canoe country for the fi rst time, where would you take them? What’s on your “don’t miss” list? What plac-es or events draw you back time after time? Do wild blueberries or walleyes make your mouth water? When autumn foliage is in its full glory, where do you go for a drive?

Better yet, get out this sum-mer and enjoy what the Northern Wilds has to off er. Attend a fes-tival, visit a lighthouse, stand up and paddle or just go fi sh. You can do it all in the Northern Wilds. So have fun and don’t for-get to vote for your wild favorites.

—Shawn Perich and Amber Pratt

www.NorthernWilds.comPUBLISHERS

Shawn Perich & Amber Pratt

EDITORS

ADVERTISING Amber Pratt, Advertising Manager, [email protected]

CONTRIBUTORS

Joan Farnam, Assistant Editor [email protected]

OFFICE Bev Wolke [email protected]

Shelby Gonzalez, Managing [email protected]

GRAPHIC DESIGN Breanna [email protected]

Copyright 2012 All rights reserved

Copyright 2012 by Northern Wilds Media, Inc. Published six times per year. Subscription rate is $15 per year or $28 for 2

years. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part requires written permission from the publisher.

Northern Wilds Media, IncP.O. Box 26Grand Marais, MN 55604(218) 387-9475 (phone / fax)

Where did you fi nd us?: __________ _____________________________What was your favorite article in this issue?: _______________________ _____________________________

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Get a FREE BOOK.Purchase a 2-year subscription to Northern Wilds and we’ll send you an autographed copyof Superior Seasons, by Shawn Perich (add’l $3 for shipping)

from the editors

Aug/Sept Advertising Deadline:July 11, 2012

Elle Andra-Warner, Lee Boyt, Gord Ellis, Joan Farnam, Michael Furtman, Bryan Hansel, Mike Hillman, Stephan Hoglund,

Deane Morrison, Beth Waterhouse

Advertising rates and publishing schedules are available.

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Where to Get Wet 13Your guide to swimming holes.

The Best Mushroom 14Picking prolifi c chanterelles.

Building A Birch Bark Canoe 16Young craftsman completes his task.

Sea Arches by Kayak 22

Sweet Somethings 24

Camping With Wheels 28

An Angling Nomad 32Fly-fi sher’s way of life.

Berry Time 33

Forgotten Adventure 38Remembering Ernest Oberholtzer

North Notes 5Wild Events Calendar 7Events 8Miss Guided 18Strange Tales 20Through My Lens 26

Canadian Trails 30The Accidental Gardener 34Book Reviews 35Campfi re Stories 36Product Reviews 37Northern Sky 37

DEPARTMENTS

FEATURES

About our cover:Grand Marais photographer

Stephan Hoglund captured this biking image at the 2011 Lutsen 99er.

Vote For Your Favorites...And Win!

Shawn Perich, Editor • [email protected]


Welcome Wildlife to your Woods.

Your family values their traditions. We can show you how to manage your forest property to improve wildlife habitat and sustain your traditions.The Sustainable Forestry Initiative® (SFI) Program can help you better manage your forest property with this free publication: Sustainable Forestry —A Landowner’s Manualwww.mns .org/manual.htmContact us at 218-722-5013 for your free copy, or write to:MN SFI Implementation Committee903 Medical Arts Building324 West Superior StreetDuluth, MN 55802The SFI® Program promotes forest stewardship integrating reforestation, nurturing, and harvesting trees for useful products with conservation of soil, air, and water resources, sh and wildlife habitat, and forest aesthetics.

Good For You. Good For Our Forests.®


Motorists will encounter a detour on Highway 1 south of Ely until mid-August. Highway 1 will be closed between Forest Road 424/New Tomahawk Road and just north of Forest Road 553. Five miles of the highway will be reconstructed, with an expected completion by November. The new project design re-duces the severity of bumps and dips in the road, soft-ens existing tight curves, adds paved shoulders and

reduces the number of hazardous roadside obstacles. The fi nished highway will retain the unique, pictur-esque character of Highway 1. The detour route will be regularly graded and maintained. Motorists will be required to follow the posted detour. For updated travel information on all Minnesota roads, call 511 or click on www.511mn.org.

Highway 1 Detour

On Top of Mount JosephineState and tribal offi cials recently cel-

ebrated the completion of an improved wayside vista on Mount Josephine in Grand Portage. The wayside is a popu-lar stopping point for North Shore trav-elers. A new observation deck jutting out from a cliff off ers spectacular views of Lake Superior and the Susie islands, with Isle Royale in the distance. includ-ing an impressive observation deck jut-ting out from the cliff . Other improve-ments include a picnic table area and restroom facilities. Amenities at the site are accessible for visitors of all abilities.

Boaters Beware: DNR Warns of Crackdown

Anglers and boaters can expect stepped-up patrols and citations for violating the state’s aquatic inva-sive species (AIS) laws. Enforcement checkpoints will be conducted near public waters. Minnesota law prohibits the possession or transport of any AIS. Conservation offi cers and peace offi -cers may stop and inspect motorists pulling boats or marine equipment upon a “rea-sonable belief” that AIS are present. AIS include zebra mussels, Eurasian water-milfoil and spiny waterfl eas. AIS pen-alties range from $50 to $1,000.

Anglers and boaters are required to:Drain bait buckets, bilges and live wells • before leaving any water access.Remove aquatic plants from boats and • trailers to prevent the spread of invasive species.Pull the plug on their boat, and drain all water • when leaving all waters of the state; drain plugs

must remain out while transport-ing water-related equipment

on roadways.

Live From Ely

Ely-area bears were seen worldwide in May dur-ing a live broadcast of the

British Broadcasting Corporation’s “Planet Earth Live” series. The program features

various animals and their young across

the world and airs as 24/7 Wild on the National

Geographic Wild channel. Stars of the Ely episode were black bears studied by Dr. Lynn Rogers and the North American Bear Center, includ-ing the families of research

bears Lily, Jewel and Juliet. For more information, visit the

North American Bear Center or its website www.bear.org.


Reserve State Park Campsites

New Forest Supervisor

You can reserve Minnesota state park campsites and lodging online up to one year in advance. The new online reser-vation website features calendars show-ing available sites at a park for three weeks at a time as well as campground maps showing proximity of campsites to shoreline, restrooms, and other ame-nities. Advanced search options allow prospective visitors to enter specifi c de-sired criteria and see their options at a glance.

Reservations can be made online at mndnr.gov/reservations or by calling 866-857-2757 (TTY 952-936-4008) from

8 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily (except holidays).Up to 30 percent of the campsites atMinnesota state parks cannot be re-served in advance and are available ona fi rst-come, fi rst-served basis.

Better BikingLast summer, the Superior Cycling

Association added 1.8 miles of sin-gletrack on Britton Peak near Tofte(Sugarbush trail system) and 1.5 milesat Pincushion Mountain near GrandMarais. This summer they plan to add3.5 miles or more to Britton Peak and4-6 miles at Pincushion.

Brenda Halter is the new Superior National Forest supervisor, replac-ing Jim Sanders, who retired. Halter brings a wealth of experience acquired over her 18 years with the U.S. Forest Service working as a hydrologist and forest planner. She has a Master’s de-gree in biology and was a member of the joint Forest Plan Revision team for the Chippewa and Superior National Forests. She most recently led the de-velopment of a new Final Planning Rule

for America’s 193-million acre NationalForest System

Halter is married with four childrenand six, soon to be seven, grandchildren;many of whom still live in Minnesota.Her husband, Al Williamson, also worksfor the Forest Service as the AssistantNational Wildlife Program Leader.

Leaving the forest are Mark Van Every,district ranger on the Kawishiwi RangerDistrict, and Tim Sexton, district rangeron the LaCroix Ranger District.


For more event listings, log on to:

www.NorthernWilds.comWild Events Calendar

103 Mount Royal Shopping Circle

June Scandinavian Slippers and Socks

July Colorwork with Kauni yarns

UpcomingEvents

Check out our website and blog for classes

& more eventswebsite:

www.yarnharborduluth.comblog:

yarnharbor.wordpress.com

Yarn Harboris a full service yarn shop supplying the community with beautiful yarns, books, notions & classes.

MAY 31JUNE 3Boreal Birding and Northern Landscapes FesitvalNorth House Folk School, Grand Maraiswww.northhouse.org

JUNE 9, SATURDAYClassic Car ShowGrand Marais 10 a.m.-2 p.m.www.grandmaraismn.com

Split Rock Lighthouse Open HouseSplit Rock Lighthouse Historic Sitewww.twoharborschamber.com

JUNE 11, MONDAYNational Marina DaySilver Bay Marinawww.silverbay.com

JUNE 16, SATURDAYGrandma’s Marathon Duluth www.grandmasmarathon.com/site

Wolf Ridge Open House 9 a.m.-4 p.m.www.wolf-ridge.org

JUNE 2224Wooden Boat Show and Summer Solstice FestivalNorth House Folk SchoolGrand Marais www.northhouse.org

Lutsen 99er Bike RaceLutsen www.lutsen99er.com

JUNE 23, SATURDAYWorld's Longest ATV ParadeSilver Bay www.atvparade.org

JUNE 2529Wolf Ridge Day Campwww.wolf-ridge.org

JUNE 27, WEDNESDAYSilver Bay Women’s Invitational Golf TournamentSilver Bay www.silverbaygolf.com

JUNE 29JULY 1Squatchberry Literary FestivalGeraldton, Ont. www.squatchberryfesitval.ca

JULY 1, SUNDAYCanada Day Street FairRed Rock, Ont. www.RedRockTownship.com

JULY 4, WEDNESDAYFireman’s Races Two Harbors www.TwoHarborsChamber.com

Tofte TrekTofte 9 a.m. www.toftetrek.com

JULY 58Two Harbors Heritage Days Two Harbors Historic Waterfrontwww.thHeritageDays.com

JULY 68Thunder Bay Blues FestivalThunder Bay www.tbayblues.ca

JULY 78Anishnawbe Keeshigan Fort William Historical ParkThunder Bay, Ont. www.fwhp.ca

JULY 1315Silver Bay-Beaver Bay DaysSilver Bay/Beaver Bay www.silverbay.com

JULY 14Bay to Bay 10K Road and Trail Race Silver Bay8:45 a.m. www.silverbay.com

JULY 1415Grand Marais Arts Festival Grand Marais www.grandmaraisartcolony.org

JULY 2021Thunder Bay Dragon Boat Race Festival Boulevard Lake ,Thunder Bay www.paddlesport.org

JULY 2122Salmon Classic Silver Bay Marina www.silverbay.com

JULY 2729Blueberry Arts FestivalEly www.ely.org

North Shore Dragon Boat Festival Grand Maraiswww.northshoredragonboat.com

JULY 2829Battle for Fort WilliamFort William Historical Park. Thunder Bay, Ont. www.fwhp.ca

AUG. 25Grand Marais Fisherman’s PicnicGrand Marais www.gmlions.com

AUG. 36Blueberry BlastNipigon, Ont. www.nipigon.net

AUG 1011Tori Celebration and Fall Music Festival Finland www.heartof thenorthshore.com

AUG 1012Live From the Rock Folk Festival Red Rock, Ont.www.livefromtherock.com

Paju Mtn. RunRed Rock, Ont.www.redrocktownship.com

AUG. 1718Epic Adventures Mountain Bike Festival Nipigon, Ont.www.epicmtbfestival.com

AUG. 18Gitchi Gami Bike RideGooseberry State Park www.ggta.org

AUG. 2425Lake Superior Dragon Boat Festival Duluth www.lakesuperiordragons.com

SEPT. 2Sawtooth Challenge Bike RaceGrand Marais www.sawtoothchallenge.org

SEPT. 730Plein Air Grand Marais Grand Maraiswww.grandmaraisartcolony.com

SEPT. 89Radio Waves Music FestivalGrand Marais www.wtip.org

SEPT. 1316Mountain Stage and Unplugged IX: The Northern HarvestGrand Marais www.northhouse.org

SEPT. 2122Oktoberfest Duluth www.oktoberfestduluth.com

SEPT. 2324Duluth Airshow Duluth www.duluthairshow.com


PAJU MOUNTAIN RUN

30TH ANNUAL August 11, 2012 11.2 KMNon-Competitive: 8:30 am Competitive: 9 am

In coordination with Live from the Rock Folk Festival

42 Salls StreetRed Rock, Ontario

■ Early Registration is on/before July 23 the cost is $35 without T-shirt $45 with a T-Shirt.

■ Online Registration: www.redrocktownship.ca click the Annual Events Link. ■ No registration will be accepted after August 9th.

■ Race Kits can be picked up at 7:30 am at the Red Rock Legion Hall, 41 Salls Street Red Rock.

Contact Sarah Clowes(807) 886-2704

www.redrocktownship.ca click the Annual Events Link

Boreal Birding & Northern Landscapes Festival,

May 31-June 3Paul Huttner, Minnesota Public Radio meteorolo-

gist, will be the featured speaker at North House Folk School’s Boreal Birding and Northern Landscapes Festival, May 31-June 3. The festival includes course-work, presentations, bird watching opportunities, hikes and more. North House will screen a fi lm about Aldo Leopold at 7 p.m. May 31. At 6 p.m. Friday, June 1, Betsy Bowen will give a presentation at Sivertson Gallery on the challenges of painting raptors and owls for Laura Erickson’s books, and Huttner will speak about our changing climate at North House at 7 p.m. June 2. For more information about all the events and opportunities during the weekend, visit www.north-house.org

Nipigon’s Feast of Champions, June 2

Got chivalry? Nipigon will be celebrating the start of summer with a “Feast of Champions”--a themed time-warp meal fi t for kings and queens on June 2 at the Nipigon Community Centre. The all-ages event spon-

Wooden Boat Show & Summer Solstice Festival,

June 22-24One of the premier festivals of the summer, the Wooden Boat

Show & Summer Solstice Festival at North House Folk School is June 22-24 this year. The festival includes a wooden boat display, a Boats-To-Tools Auction, craft demonstrations, coursework, a contra dance, food and more. The fabulous Good Harbor Hill Players will put on their annual Summer Solstice Pageant at 8 p.m. Saturday. Boat builder and author Douglas Brooks is the featured speaker this year. His interest is Japanese boat build-ing and he has apprenticed with fi ve boat builders in Japan. For more info about the festival, visit www.northhouse.org.

sored by the Nipigon Rotary Club and the Township of Nipigon—with the expert assistance of the Thunder Bay branch of the Society for Creative Anachronism—will feature costumes, food, entertainment, crafts and games for kids. Costumes are encouraged but not re-quired. Proceeds support programs like food banks, school breakfast programs, and various funds for the local hospital. Tickets now on sale. For more informa-tion, contact Elvie Choiselat at 807-887-2718.

Grandma’s Marathon, June 15-16

Grandma’s Marathon is the biggest running event innorthern Minnesota with 10,000 people competing inthe 26.5-mile marathon from Two Harbors to Duluth,6,300 participants in the Gary Bjorklund Half-Marathonand 1,900 competing in the William A. Irvin 5K. Newthis year: the men’s and women’s half-marathon na-


July 27 - 29

July 4

September 7 - 9

June 12 - August 28

www.ely.org

Local Artists & Musicians4 - 5 pm

Whiteside Park

Art & Craft Exhibitors Demonstrations All-American Lumberjack Show

Summer in Ely

11 am -4 pm: Activities in Whiteside Park1 pm: Parade Dusk: Fireworks

Experience Fun and Excitement!

For reservations call: 1-800-543-1384 or visit: www.grandportage.com

Owned and operated by the Grand Portage Band of Lake Superior Chippewa

The Great Rendezvous Place

Live from the Rock

Folk FestivalAugust 10-12

Red Rock, Ontario CanadaJust 1 Hour East of Thunder Bay

MORE THAN JUST MUSIC ∙ Children’s Activities

∙ 16-Seat Voyageur Canoe

∙ Open Mic ∙ Craft Workshops

www.livefromtherock.com

30 Musicians on 4 Stages:

Roots Blues Country Bluegrass CelticWeekend Pass - $60 for Adults ∙ $50 for Youth & Seniors ∙ $10 for Children

Advance tickets on sale until July 31 - call Colosimo’s in Thunder Bay 807-344-4021On-site Camping Available - purchase $20 passes at the gate


tional championships, which will be run along thehalf-marathon course at the same time. Grandma’sMarathon is always a big party in Duluth as thousandsconverge on the city for the races, live music, speakersand more. For more info, maps of the course and spec-tator information, visit www.grandmasmarathon.com.

Lutsen 99er, June 22-24The Midwest’s premier ultra-mountain bike race, the

Lutsen 99er, is in its second year and is scheduled forJune 23. A shorter, 39-mile course is available in addi-tion to the 99-mile course for which the event is named.The race leads mountain bikers through the beautyof Minnesota’s North Shore—from the Lake Superiorshoreline to the top of the Sawtooth Mountains. Thecourses are tough and challenging. There are eventsplanned for the entire weekend, including a pre-racepasta feed and post-race party with live music. Formore info and to register, visit www.lutsen99er.com.

Writers Gather in Geraldton,June 29-July 1

The Squatchberry Literary Festival in Geraldtonis June 29-July 1 and coincides the town’s 75thAnniversary. Seventeen published writers fromGreenstone and Thunder Bay will off er readings oftheir works and will lead workshops and panel discus-sions. The Festival kickoff features a presentation by

SUPPORT your

LOCAL ATVclub

join us onfacebook

For directions or more info: (218) 387-9844 [email protected]

www.ATV.rideupnorth.com

Finland ATV & Snowmobile Club

ATV Riders & ATVAM Members

218-353-7337 ▪ finlandmnus.com

Welcome to our area

Beaver BayFinlandSilver BayLutsen

* Pay-at-the-Pump* 24-hour card reader* Speedpass Pumps* No Ethanol in our Super Unleaded* Also Diesel at some locations

today’s way to pay

Help Us Break the Record

Silver Bay, MNJune 23, 2012

World’s Largest ATV Parade

“2,012 ATV’s in 2012”

atvparade.com

(218) 226-4666 ∙ BeaverBaySports.com

ATV Rentals, Sales & Service

HUGE SALE

on 2011 Polaris RZR XP

900

Saturday, June 23Silver Bay, MN

Ride Into History

Welcome to ATVAM and the riders in the ATV Parade.

Enjoy your stay in Silver Bay.

www.atvam.org • www.atvparade.org1-800-442-8826

Let’s take back the World Record!

33rd Tofte Trek, July 4

The Tofte Trek 10K Wilderness Run/Walk is the ultimate mud race, with runners starting out at the Birch Grove Community Center and run-ning up to the Superior Hiking Trail and down again through woods, fi elds and muddy trails. There are races for youngsters, too, before the main race starts at 9 a.m. Registration for this fun event is open now, and the fi rst 200 people who register get a Tofte Trek T-shirt. For more info, visit www.toftetrek.com


July 27 - 29, 2012www.NorthShoreDragonBoat.com

218-370-9461 [email protected]

It’s not too late to join the FUN as a TEAM

or INDIVIDUAL Paddler!

12th Annual Lake Superior Salmon Classic Fishing Tournament

Silver Bay Marina Sat, July 21 & Sun, July 22

Entry fee $20 per person Raffl e tickets also availableFor more info and rules visit :

www.silverbay.com/marina.htmlHosted by: Silver Bay PTSO

award-winning Charles Wilkins, whose recent adven-ture of rowing across the Atlantic Ocean will soon be narrated in a new book. At the Festival banquet, Arthur Black, syndicated columnist, will be guest speaker. His literary awards include three Stephen Leacock Medals for Humour. Registration forms are available at www.SquatchberryFestival.ca.

Two Harbors Heritage Days, July 5-8

This annual festival features four days of fun, includ-ing a parade, street dances, helicopter rides, an arts & crafts fair, food vendors, a beauty contest, a classic car tour, fi reworks and lots of live music on two stages. Bands and musicians include Common Ground, Chip Sandstrom, Paul Imholte, Terri Mattila, Two Harbors Ukulele Group, Kenny King and the Dave Herzog Island Steel Drums, to mention a few. For more info and the complete schedule, visit www.thheritagedays.com.

Thunder Bay Blues Festival, July 6-8

Three days of top blues players will be featured at the 11th annual Thunder Bay Blues Festival in Marina Park in Thunder Bay, July 6-8. Headliners this year include Jonny Lang, (Friday night), the Tedeschi Trucks Band (Saturday) and .39 Special, Sunday. Other top blues players include Big Walter Smith, Joe Louis Walker, the Royal Southern Brotherhood, Scrapomatic and Sonny Landreth, to name a few. The venue is spectacular, overlooking the Sleeping Giant and features a great variety of food vendors along with the blues. For tick-ets and more info, visit www.tbayblues.ca.

Silver Bay-Beaver Bay Days, July 13-15

Street dances, a mud run, North Shore Mining Tours, a family golf tournament and more featured during the Silver Bay-Beaver Bay Days, July 13-15. A wide va-riety of events are held in both communities, culmi-nating in a parade in Silver Bay at 1 p.m. on Sunday, July 15. There‘s live music, too, including a concert by Nathan Herfi ndahl at Silver Bay’s William Kelley High School Auditorium on Friday night. A kid’s carnival, petting zoo and a library book sale are also on tap for the three-day event. To see the schedule, visit www.silverbay.com.

Grand Marais Arts Festival, July 14-15

The 22nd annual Grand Marais Arts Festival in July 14-15 this year and will feature work by more than 80 artists displaying their work under white tents in downtown Grand Marais. The event kicks off with a “Meet & Greet Soiree” for artists and the public to

World’s Longest ATV ParadeJune 23, Silver Bay

Minnesota ATV enthusiasts want their record back. In 2009, ATV riders gathered in Silver Bay to set the World Record for the longest ATV parade with 1,683. Then a group in Utah beat them with 1,870 ATVs. So the All Terrain Vehicle Association of Minnesota (ATVAM) is returning to Silver Bay for another parade. Whether or not they gather enough riders for a new record (and it is likely they will), ATVers will have a good time in a friendly community. For info, go to www.atvparade.org.


Open Year Round Mon. to Sat.www.amethystmine.com400 Victoria Ave. E, Thunder Bay, ON

Free Tours of theAmethyst

Factory“Special tours for motor coaches and large groups”

Gift CentreAmethyst Gift CentreAmethyst

Amethyst, Jewelery, Souvenirs, and more!

Hand-crafted on site

PanoramaMine Opens

May 15!

Located near the breathtaking Kakabeka Falls

Souvenirs Windsocks MoccasinsCanada & Thunder Bay T-Shirts, Sweatshirts & Fleece Jackets Weather VanesKakabeka Falls Jackets, T-shirts and PolosLocal Arts & Crafts Gifts Canadian Artwork & BooksCountry, Seasonal and Garden Flags Amethyst

Global Flags

[email protected] Hwy 11-17 W, Kakabeka Falls, ONT

www.global f lagsandbanners.ca

& Banners

807-577-2435

Lake Superior Rental CottageThe Canadian Experience−Thunder Bay, ON

www.vrbo.com/248709

... a Superior Treasure

Discover

RED ROCK

www.RedRockTownship.ca

Learn more about what our community has to offer, including our beautiful Full Service Marina at

meet at Sivertson Gallery for talk and refreshments on Friday, July 13, from 7-9 p.m. The Arts Festival is from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday and 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday.

Silver Bay Salmon Classic, July 21-22

The 12th annual Silver Bay Salmon Classic is July 21-22 this year and is based out of the Silver Bay Marina. There are three contest divisions: Coho Salmon, King Salmon and Lake Trout, with fi ve places recognized in each division. Winners will be announced July 22. For more info and to register, visit www.silverbay.com

Blueberry Art Festival, July 27-29

More than 300 exhibitors will participate in the Blueberry Art Festival in Ely, July 27-29. The three-day event in Whiteside Park features an incredible array of original art, handcrafted items and ethnic foods, plus a wide variety of live music. Congo Se Menne per-forms from 11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. on Saturday and the Barish Brothers are on-stage from 11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. Sunday, to name a few. Pancake breakfasts are served both Saturday and Sunday mornings, and blueberry pies, tarts, muffi ns and more are stars of the menu over the weekend. Visit www.Ely.org

Grand Marais Fisherman’s Picnic, Aug. 2-5

During the Fisherman’s Picnic, Aug. 2-5, Grand Marais is fi lled with visitors, vendors, “crazy days sales” and much more. The Grand Marais Lions Club, which spon-sors the event, holds a raffl e, which includes a grand prize of $10,000 and lots of other prizes. The Big Fish contest at Buck’s Hardware Hank off ers prizes in six fi sh species categories. And not to forget—the Lions Club serves up hand-breaded, deep-fried Lake Superior herring Fishburgers. See www.gmlions.com.

Plan Now for Paju Mtn. Run, Aug. 11

Red Rock’s 30th annual Paju Mountain Run will beheld Aug. 11 in conjunction with the Live From theRock Folk Festival. The 11.2K race climbs 715 feetfrom the town to the top of Paju Mountain. There arecompetative and noncompetative races, with severalage divisions. Register by July 24 to be entered in anearly bird drawing for folk festival passes at www.RedRockTownship.com.

North Shore Dragon Boat Festival, July 27-29

The North Shore Dragon Boat Festival in Grand Marais July 27-29, is a paddling adven-ture on the harbor with more than 20 teams participating. The festival starts on Friday, July 27, with the Parade of Teams and the Opening Ceremony at 7 p.m., followed by a street dance with The Splinters. Saturday morning kicks off with a pancake breakfast at 7 a.m. Races start at 9 a.m. with the awards ceremony at 5 p.m. in Harbor Park. For more information and to reg-ister and/or paddle on a boat, visit www.north-shoredragonboat.com.


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1. Boulevard Lake, Thunder BayDestination beach with playground, life-

guards, tennis courts, putt-putt golf, paddle-boat rentals, paved trails and a view of the Sleeping Giant. Hosts the annual Thunder Bay Dragon Boat Festival.

2. Mink Lake, Grand MaraisHead up the Gunfl int Trail about 12 miles.

Turn right at the Trout Lake Resort sign and proceed down the dirt road. Two miles in lies Mink Lake and its popular swimming beach.

3. Agate Bay, Two HarborsBroad, rocky beach known for its agate

picking potential. Wear sandals or water shoes for maximum foot comfort. Nearby Burlington Bay has a sand beach. Walk the Sonju Harbor Trail to see the Two Harbors Light Station.

4. Park Point, DuluthMiles of sand and every beach amenity

imaginable, from picnic tables and a play-ground to restrooms, concessions, grills, life-guards and a volleyball court.

CAUTIONNorthern rivers often have strong currents, even

if they appear placid. Stick to designated swimming beaches to keep your vacation safe. Also, be aware that Lake Superior can generate rip currents that pull you away from shore. If caught in such a current, swim across it, parallel to the shore, until you are free of the fast-moving water.

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Chanterelles are a powerful distraction. In July, I spend hours walking through the woods and staring at the ground, oblivious to mosquitoes and horse-fl ies, in search of the butter-yellow mushrooms. And I fi nd what I seek. Nearly every night we have butter-sautéed chanterelles for supper. And yes, they are that good.

Along the North Shore, chanterelles appear in July and provide good pickings for a few weeks. In a wet year, you may fi nd edible chanterelles into September, although it is more common for pick-ing to end during August. Chanterelles are easy to identify, easy to fi nd, abundant and, best of all, deli-cious.

I watch for chanterelles after a good rain. They consistently appear in a couple places in my yard and provide a convenient barometer for local pick-ing. Out in the woods, I fi nd chanterelles in the same places year after year. Since a mushroom is the fruiting body of an unseen fungus, perhaps they are produced annually, like apples. That said, when out picking I leave a few mushrooms to spread their spores. Overenthusiastic picking of a patch seems to

result in far fewer chanterelles the following year.

In my experience, chanterelles are found in shady forest uplands, often beneath large leaf aster, a com-mon ground cover. Where I pick them, the tree cover is mature aspen mixed with balsam, though I have also found mushrooms growing on bare, nee-dle-strewn ground in balsam thickets and beneath mature birch trees.

When searching for mushrooms, I walk slowly along forest paths and use my foot to sweep aside aster leaves to see what is beneath them. Chanterelles are easy to spot, because their yellow-burnished orangecoloration is a bright contrast the greens and browns dominating the forest fl oor. If you fi nd one, you’ll certainly fi nd a few more. They nearly always grow

in clusters or fairy rings. In fact, growing in clusters is a trait you can use to identify them.

Chanterelles are easy to identify. In addition to their distinctive yellow color, they are trumpet-shaped. Their gills fl are up along the stem like fl uted columns. They also have a pleasant odor, which some folks liken to apricot. If you are careful and use a good guide book or, better yet, go out with an experiencedpicker, you’ll discover nothing else really looks and feels like a chanterelle.

When picking mushrooms, I prefer to put them in a small wicker basket, though any bowl or bucket will do. To pick, I grasp the stem near the ground

Picking the North Shore’s Best MushroomBy Shawn Perich

They grow in clusters or fairy rings [LEFT] and often sprout beneath large leaf aster [CENTER]. Chanterelles are easy to identify by their yellow color, trumpet shape and fl uted gills. Note how the gills originate from the stem. Most mushrooms have a ring around the stem where the gills begin. Chanterelles do not [BELOW].


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and break it off. This gives me the whole mushroom with a bit of dirt on the butt of the stem. Some pickers use a knife to cut off the mushrooms, but I fi nd they are easier to pick by hand. Typically three or four clusters of mushrooms yield enough for a meal.

At home, I clean the mushrooms using a moist paper towel and a par-ing knife. Wipe off any dirt on the cap or stem with the paper towel, and then tap the cap with your fi ngertip to knock bits of dirt out of the gills. I use the knife to cut off the butt of the stem. Large mushrooms are sliced lengthwise for cooking. I also check to make sure the stems are solid—some ripe chanterelles contain small worms that hollow out the stems. To avoid worms, try to pick small, young mushrooms rather than the large, ful-ly ripe chanterelles. Worm infested mushrooms should be thrown out.

We prefer to eat fresh mushrooms. A couple of years ago, we tried dry-ing them with a dehydrator, but were unsatisfi ed with the taste. I recently talked to someone who said canned chanterelles are excellent, but we haven’t tried that method. You can store fresh chanterelles in the refrig-erator for a week or two.

Our method of cooking chanter-elles is pretty simple: we sauté them in melted butter. Vikki fi rst cooks them for a few minutes to reduce their moisture content and then adds butter. Some folks I know add garlic to the butter. Sautéed chanterelles, to my palate, are better than mo-rels, though I like both very much. Chanterelles will compliment just about any meal, but they are especial-ly tasty with chicken.


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Many Minnesotans own canoes. Rare is the ca-noer who paddles a birchbark canoe. Rarer still are birchbark canoe builders—Talon Stammen of Grand Forks, ND is one of those.

I met Stammen, a high school senior, last sum-mer when he visited Grand Marais to attend a birchbark canoe-building class at the North House Folk School. I was impressed with this quiet young man who deeply appreciates nature and working with his hands. At the time, he intended to spend the rest of the summer at his family’s island retreat at Lake of the Woods working on his canoe.

Although Stammen took instruction from mas-ter canoe-builder Eric Simula of Hovland, the North House class was an overview of techniques, rather than building a canoe from start to fi nish. You might say Stammen learned just enough to be dangerous.

However, I wasn’t surprised when his mother, Mary Stammen, emailed me photos of her son pad-dling his new canoe. He worked on the canoe for about two months and fi nished it last September. During the process, he learned a lot about canoes and something about native people, too. He was introduced to an Ojibwe elder who gave him wel-come advice and encouragement.

“I don’t think I could have completed the canoe without his help,” Stammen told me in a telephone interview. “He was very helpful with fi nding the

right kind of birchbark.”

Gathering and preparing the necessary naturalmaterials to build a canoe is the most time-con-suming part of the construction process. He startedwith birchbark, because it was near the end of thepeak season for doing so. A friend suggested he con-tact an Ojibwe elder who was familiar with tradi-tional crafts. He helped the young man obtain per-mission to harvest bark on the local reservation.

Stammen says the Ojibwe have different wordsto describe birch trees, depending upon how thetree is used. What he needed was a canoe birch,a tree with a very straight trunk and thick bark.His friend marked three places on a map where hecould fi nd such a tree. With that help, Stammenfound the perfect birch.

After harvesting the bark, he scraped away thecambium to reach the inner bark. Then he rolledthe bark and soaked it so it would be fl exible andsupple when it was time to use it. The bark roll was stored beneath some shady cedars on his family’s property to prevent it from drying out.

Next he harvested white cedar, the primarywood used for the ribs, sheathing, head board and gunnels. For the thwarts and pegs—the latter used in place of nails—he harvested ash. From a swamp he collected watap, the roots of black spruce and tamarack used as lashing. The pitch used to seal the seams came from a white spruce.

Young Canoe Builder Completes His TaskBy Shawn Perich

Talon Stammen came to the North Shore to learn how to build a birch bark canoe. Last summer he completed the task at his family’s cabin on Lake of the Woods. COURTESY OF TALON STAMMEN


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“The pitch can get really sticky. I had it all over me for days,” Stammen said. “I was also told it makes the best chewing gum, but I’m still picking it from my teeth.”

Traditionally, three tools were used to make a canoe—an axe, an awl and a crooked knife. Although he made a traditional awl from the front leg bone of a deer and was given a moose rib to make a crooked knife, Stammen used a steel awl he forged himself and a metal crooked knife.

The canoe was built on the ground, beneath the same cedars where he stored the roll of bark. He started by laying out the bark and then mak-ing the building frame, which he held in place with over 400 pounds of smooth, fl at stones. The bark was pulled up around the frame and held in place with stakes. Then he lashed the gunwales to the bark.

He used a beaver tooth to cut the thwarts and lashed and pegged them into place. Thwarts and ribs were shaped with boiling water. After they were heated, he bent the ribs into shape with his knee.

“I broke a half dozen of them before I got the feel of it,” he said.

The ribs get smaller going from stem

to stern and overlap like fi sh scales. Each rib is fi tted and tapped into place beneath the gunwales. More boiling water is used to stretch the bark until the ribs are in place. The seams were coated with spruce pitch and the re-maining cambium scraped from the bark. The nearly completed canoe was placed in the water to fi nd leaks, then sealed with more pitch.

Finally, the 14-foot hunting canoe

was ready to paddle. Stammen says the canoe is designed to carry one or two hunters and travel fast without a load. However, it has the carrying capacity to handle whatever game the hunter kills. He says the canoe is a joy to paddle.

“I really can’t compare it to a regular canoe, because the shape and materials are so different,” he says. “It’s so buoy-ant it sits right on top of the water.”

Stammen hopes to put his new ca-noe to use in traditional ways, such as harvesting wild rice and netting whitefi sh. He’s also preparing mate-rials to make a long bow, snowshoe frames and perhaps a second canoe. He plans to learn how to tan hides and is getting a raw bison hide from a North Dakota bison farm. He wants to learn about trapping, too. While he appreciates the old ways, the young man doesn’t live in the past.

“I’m not against technology. I want to become a physician.” he says. “I just feel that when I’m in a wilder-ness environment, I want to use the skills of working with my hands and be in more in touch with the environ-ment.”

Whatever the future holds for this 18-year old, those skills will serve him well.

A birch bark canoe is bouyant and easy to paddle. COURTESY OF TALON STAMMEN

There are no sharks in Lake Superior.

This was one of the reasons I expected to have a great time trying SUP (stand-up paddle-boarding) in Grand Marais. See, I had tried surfi ng three times before. All three at-tempts had ended in literal “tears for fears.”

Years ago, I was living in northern California and felt inspired to borrow a board and a wetsuit and a patient friend. We ventured to a beginner-friendly—but notoriously sharky—surf spot. I didn’t even want to put my hands in the water, much less risk falling in. But I got on the board anyway and managed to ride a cou-ple of little waves.

Soon, though, the fear in the back of my head swelled to a crescendo of panic. I freaked out and hightailed it to dry land.

Rinse, repeat. Rinse, repeat.

Now I was in Grand Marais and expect-

ing to have a very different water-and-board experience. And I did. Eventually. First, though, I had to get the board to the beach without blowing away.

I procured equipment and a guide from Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply (20 E. 1st St., Grand Marais). We went just behind the store to the East Bay, the circular Lake Superior bay around which Artist’s Point reaches.

It was late summer. Wind beat the open water beyond the point into stiff, white-capped peaks. The bay looked squirrelly, but manageable.

At roughly 30 inches wide and 11 or 12 feet long, the rental board was essentially a heavy foam sail. As I wrestled it the short distance between the store and the bay, the wind nearly coaxed the SUP aloft.

We set our boards on the beach. Melissa, the guide, explained and pantomimed the

process of standing up on a stand-up pad-dleboard. First you get to your knees. When you are comfortable there, you smoothly, gracefully evolve to standing upright.

She paddled out. I waded in and clam-bered aboard my SUP with the balletic grace of a pregnant walrus.

SUPs are old-school, a throwback to the stand-up technique developed by Waikiki beachboys in the ‘60s. Unlike with a regu-lar surfboard (long or short), instead of ly-ing on your belly and windmilling your arms in the water to move forward, you stand on the board and pole the water aside with a comically long paddle. Mentally I christened it a Shark-Proof Paddleboard.

Once past the shallow water, it was time to get vertical. I rose to all fours, then my knees, then, after a bit of poling around, my feet. I wobbled and braced for an ice-water baptism.

As it turned out, my hair didn’t even get wet. Once I stood, the big, wide board was like my own fl oating island, especially after I heeded Melissa’s advice to bend my knees

and keep the board at odds with the on-coming wavelets.

I had canoed and kayaked before, so therewasn’t as much of a learning curve withthe paddle. Its length took getting usedto, though. Maneuvering the board some-times seemed like steering the Titanic witha pool cue.

To be honest, I had expected SUP tofeel like paddling a canoe, only taller. Butit was totally different. Quickly it was ob-vious why surfi ng had been the sport ofHawaiian royalty. Standing on the waterfelt stately, regal. I was both connectedto the lake—riding the tiny buck of eachwavelet that rolled under the board—andabove it, giddy and fl ying like Aladdin onhis magic carpet.

This summer I plan to stand up and pad-dle again. Someday I’d like to get goodenough to ride real waves—whether oceanor lake. I’ll just have to paint a message onthe bottom of my board: “No sharks al-lowed.”

MissGuided BY SHELBY GONZALEZ

Miss Guided paddles her SUP in the sheltered East Bay at Grand Marais. MELISSA RICHTER



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Stone Harbor guide Melissa Richter demonstrates the knee-paddling position. SHELBY GONZALEZ

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Imagine looking out the win-dow of a Lake Superior light-house and seeing a giant lake freighter on course to slam right into you.

It is just one of the many light-house tales that have become part of the Lake Superior folk-lore.

Lake Superior’s fi rst lighthous-es appeared in 1849 at Whitefi sh Point and Copper Harbour. It wasn’t until 1865—the same year Minnesota became a state—that the fi rst lighthouse was built on Superior’s western shores at Minnesota Point. The lighthouse was nicknamed “Old Standby” and marked the entrance to the Superior-Duluth harbour.

Two years later, in the summer of 1867--the same year the Dominion of Canada was created—Canada’s fi rst lighthouse on Lake Superior, the St. Ignace Lighthouse, was lit at Talbot Island, a place which the Ojibway warned the government was haunted by evil spirits. After the deaths of three lighthouse keepers within six years, the Canadian government abandoned their ‘’lighthouse of doom.’’ However, fi shermen report that sometimes dur-ing a moonlit night, a white-haired woman (rumoured to be the widow of the second keeper) can be seen roaming the remote island.

Minnesota’s Split Rock Lighthouse, which sits on a sheer 130-foot cliff, owes its existence to a shipwreck less than a mile away. It happened in the early hours of November 28, 1905, during a raging blizzard. The 436-foot steel barge Madeira was being towed by the 478-foot steel steamer William Edenborn. About 3 a.m. the towline broke, leav-ing Madeira drifting and helpless. Three hours later, the Madeira was being smashed broadside against a cliff, lost a

crewman, broke in two and sank. Coincidentally, at the same time a few miles away, the Edenborn slammed its bow at full speed onto the shore at the mouth of Split Rock River. She also lost one crew member as the ship cracked midship.

After the 1905 storm, shipowners lobbied success-fully for a lighthouse to be built near Split Rock (then called Stoney Point).

The beautiful Battle Island about seven miles from Rossport comes with an interesting his-tory. According to lake legends, its name comes from a battle that suppos-

edly took place in 1885 between Canadian soldiers ontheir way to Manitoba to squash the Riel Rebellion andthe Ojibway. The soldiers were marching across the frozenLake Superior from Jackfi sh to Rossport when, along theway, the soldiers claim shots were fi red at them and theyreturned the fi re, lending to the story that a “battle” tookplace. A nearby island and lighthouse took on the name ofBattle Island.

Battle Island’s fi rst offi cial keeper, Charles McKay(1877-1913), stayed for 36 years and was one of thosehardy mariners who thought nothing of row-sailing 92miles to Thunder Bay on business. Another time in earlyDecember, he rowed-sailed from Battle Island to Sault Ste.Marie to see his family, arriving on Christmas Day.

The lighthouse sits atop a rock cliff 117 feet above thewater. Yet, in 1977, as the keepers huddled in their house,a ferocious summer storm pushed a huge wave up morethan 100 feet, splashing right over the tower.

Built on the southeast side of Isle Royale, MenagerieIsland Lighthouse was fi rst lit on October 19, 1875 whenthe unmarried John Malone was the fi rst assistant keep-

The “Lighthouse of Doom” and the Long-Lived Cat

The light at the north entrance to Thunder Bay Harbour was struck by a ship in 1971, requiring months of repairs. | ELLE ANDRA-WARNER

Strange Tales BY ELLE ANDRAWARNER


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er. Three years later, he became the keeper and in 1880, the 35-year old Malone married 20-year old Irish woman named Julia Shea. They stayed at the isolated lighthouse for the next 34 years, raising 13 children—all named after lighthouse inspectors. The year that there were two inspec-tors, Julia gave birth to twins.

A creatively self-reliant couple, they grew vegetables on nearby Wright Island, had a family cow grazing on another island, gathered seagull eggs (an 1887 log entry noted 1,487 eggs collected to date), and in their spare time, stuffed birds and animals they had killed for food.

From just about anywhere in Thunder Bay, one can see the red-and-white lighthouse built in 1937 on the end of the breakwall’s north entrance to the harbour. In May 1971, the keepers had an unexpected visitor when the Canadian Steamship Lines Simcoe collided with the lighthouse and pier, causing heavy damage and cutting the submarine ca-bles. It took four months of repairs before the keepers could return to the lighthouse.

When the lighthouse keeper at Porphyry Point, the late Dave Sokalsy of Thunder Bay, fi nished the season in the 1970s, his beloved cat companion was nowhere to be found when he was helicoptered back to the mainland. His friend William Hryb tells the story of the heartbroken Dave pay-ing the costs for a helicopter ride back to Porphyry to fi nd his lost cat. “Shortly after landing, he found his precious cat waiting at the door of the lighthouse. He bundled her up in his long coat for the ride back to the base,” said Hryb, add-ing the cat went on to live a long life.

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Iconic Minnesota lights include Grand Marais (top) and Two Harbors (below).


In late August of 2010,

the most recognizable sea arch on the North Shore and one of Tettegouche

State Park’s most popular attractions collapsed into

Lake Superior. News sources reported that it was the only arch along the North Shore,

but kayakers knew better. Many of Minnesota’s sea arches are only accessible to sea kayaks and remain

relatively unknown.

An arch is like a cave with one exception: You can

paddle in one side and come out the other. Arches along the North Shore range in size from those that take a

few seconds to pass through to those that feel like a cave, and most require the use of a kayak to gain access. These

are a few of my favorites.

Sea Archesby Kayak

Discover the North Shore's

Vaulted Jewels

Story &

Photos byBryan Hansel

Ilena Berg paddles through the Cave of Waves near Tettegouche State Park.

Precautions Lake Superior’s water temperature sel-

dom rises above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. If you tip over, you could quickly suffer from cold shock, cold incapacitation and hypo-thermia. When paddling on the big lake, wear a drysuit or wetsuit to help manage this risk. Inexperienced paddlers should consider hiring a guide because these trips are for intermediate to advanced paddlers.

The Cave of WavesThe Cave of Waves is the longest arch on

the shore and the most unusual. You kay-ak into a 25-foot tall, cave-like arch that cuts into the side of a 50-foot cliff, turn 90 degrees and then paddle out the other side. The turn feels harrowing in waves, but you can reach out and touch the arch’s side if you need help turning. To get there, launch at the mouth of the Baptism River in Tettegouche State Park and paddle north along the shore 1.2 miles until you reach Crystal Bay. Find the arch near the north end of a sand beach. In waves, proceed with caution as Shovel Point creates a mess of kayak-tipping refl ection waves.

Palisade Head ArchA fi nger of rock juts into Superior from

the southeast corner of Palisade Head. An arch cuts through its center, creating a cav-ern with a cathedral ceiling. A rock pillar divides the cavern into two arches. As a bonus, after kayaking through the arches, paddle closer to shore and kayak through a narrow slot separating the rocky fi nger from the mainland. To get there, kayak south southwest 1.6 miles from the Baptism River. Once at Palisade Head, there is no way off the water as you paddle past 200-foot tall palisades. These cliffs create re-fl ection waves, making passage diffi cult if there’s swell.

Manitou River ArchThe Manitou River plunges over a cliff

and directly into Lake Superior, and a beach at its mouth funnels the river through an arch. It takes seconds to paddle through the arch, but because the arch frames the waterfall, it feels like you’re paddling into a secret cove. When the river is running high, avoid this trip. To get there, paddle 5.5 miles south from Sugarloaf Cove along basalt cliffs. Along the way look for two additional arches. There are no land-ings on this trip, it’s remote with limited cell service, and rescue is a long way away. Consider this an intermedi-ate to advanced trip.

Other ArchesKayak to the easiest-to-reach arch by

launching from the Cutface Creek Rest Area near Grand Marais and paddling around Terrace Point. About 100 yards down the shore, an arch leads into a rocky cove just big enough for one kayak. A house tops the cove, and the homeowners will wave and cheer when they see you pass through their arch.

If you just want to see an arch, drive to Hollow Rock Resort near Grand Portage. A small arch cuts through a rocky island. During winter, you can watch the sunrise through it.

Bryan Hansel is an ACA-certifi ed kayaking in-structor who has kayaked the entire American shorelineof Lake Superior. He owns North Shore Expeditions,a kayak guiding company based in Grand Marais

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Ron Steinwall kayaks through the Palisade Head sea arch.



If Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory got shrunk in the dryer and dropped on the North Shore, the result might look something like the Great! Lakes Candy Kitchen,

The Kitchen lives in the little building that used to house Mel’s Fish, just past the Knife River on Scenic Highway 61. The jaunty red trim, whirligig windsocks and hand-painted signs hint at the delights waiting within.

Inside, you’ll fi nd a retro-fl avored explo-sion of color: lollipops, I Love Lucy aprons, jars of Gummi Worms and hard candies, cellophane packages of fudge and peanut brittle tied with ribbons. A sample tray provides a steady rotation of temptation.

The broad, glass-fronted counter that once held smoked fi sh is now crammed with handmade sweets, including divinity, English toffee, Swiss mints, air crunch and chocolate fi sh (in honor of the building’s former identity). On a tray atop the coun-ter sits a gleaming line of caramel apples—Minnesota-grown Honeycrisps swaddled in sweet-cream caramel and rolled in crushed peanuts. The Kitchen sells about 80 per day. Here, you can take your cara-mel straight up, enrobed in dark or milk chocolate, speckled with coarse-ground sea salt, swirled around an apple, or spiked with ginger or licorice.

The fl avored caramels were invented by Patricia Canelake and Pamela Canelake Matson, the sisters who, along with

Pamela’s husband Dennis, started theshop.

The Canelakeshave caramel in their blood. In 1905,Patricia and Pamela’sgrandfather, Gust, started the VirginiaCandy Kitchen inVirginia. Their fa-ther, John, and hisbrother Leo took itover and changed thename to Canelake’s

Candy. John invented a chilly confectioncalled the Nutty Ice Cream Bar that soldfor a dime.

Pamela and Patricia packed candy andworked the soda fountain. They only gotto help in the Virginia store on special oc-casions. On Christmas, they would makecandy canes with their dad.

Canelake’s survived the Depression butnot familial indifference; the store was soldin the 1970s because “at the time, no onein the family was interested” in taking itover, explained Pamela. Canelake’s Candyremains open today and features a restoredsoda fountain and colorful murals depict-ing its early days.

Pamela grew up to be an art teacher,Patricia an artist and teacher. Some fi veyears ago, after Pamela retired, she and herhusband, Dennis, and Patricia teamed upto start a candy business, carrying on a 100-year family tradition. Pamela and Dennis’sson, Andy, has been working with them atthe Kitchen for two years and does a lot ofthe cooking these days.

John Canelake is still around and “re-members everything,” said Pamela. “He

Sweet SomethingsOld-fashioned candy shopserves treats, nostalgia

— By Shelby Gonzalez —

[ABOVE] Amelie coats Gummi Bears with melt-ed chocolate at Great! Lakes Candy Kitchen in Knife River. [BELOW] A delicious tray of Honey Crisp sweet cream cara-mel apples awaits a fan or two.


loves to hear about how we’re doing at the store. I still consult with him on recipes. My dad always says, ‘Don’t change the recipe and don’t skimp on the butter and sugar—your customers will know.’”

They make much of their candy in a big copper kettle made by Savage Bros. of Chicago, the same company he used. And they use his recipes for “everything, re-ally.”

Candymaking is a science with soul. Chocolate, for example, cannot simply be heated until it melts. It needs to be coddled to specifi c temperatures with a multi-step process known as tempering. “If you don’t temper the chocolate, it turns gray,” said

Patricia. “That’s called ‘blooming.’”

Many candy operations use enrobing machines that turn out perfectly uniform chocolate coatings. At the Great! Lakes Candy Kitchen, Pamela said, they strive to make their confections “roughly elegant, so you can see they’re handmade.”

That said, they are not at all averse to using technology. A digital thermometer attached to the wall with a cord lays in a kettle of air crunch. The kettle looks like it’s got an IV.

“My father never had one of these,” said Pamela, referring to the digital thermom-eter, “but he would have appreciated it.”

[LEFT] Pamela Canelake Matson stirs up a pot of “air crunch” in a big copper kettle. [TOP] Jeremy Matson cuts a batch of homemade caramels. [ABOVE] Shelby Gonzalez spent a day working the store, learning to make candy.

Grand Marais

Silver BayBeaver Bay

landingthe

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When George Gershwin penned the lyrics to his song, “Summertime,” he certainly didn’t have wildlife in mind. The lyrics read “summertime, and the livin’ is easy,” but if he’d been thinking of wildlife he would have written “summertime, hurry up and grow.”

While summer may in-deed be an easy time for humans –a time of back-yard barbecues, trips to the lake, or leisurely bike rides—for birds and an-imals it’s a period of condensed activ-ity. During summer, parents are con-stantly on guard for the safety of their offspring, and for many species, in a continuous search for food, which is endlessly delivered to the nest or den.

The young have their own tasks, which are largely to stay out of trouble and to grow. Living as we do at a lati-tude that promises rigorous winters, wildlife either needs to get big enough over the summer to survive the on-coming snow, or develop adequately to migrate before it arrives. Consider that white-tailed deer fawns arrive in June and weigh in at less than 8

pounds, but must grow to nearly 100 pounds to make it through our winter. Downy duck-lings weigh an 1.25 ounces, and must not only reach adult size before migrating south, but also must grow their fi rst set of feathers and learn to master fl ight. Fox kits also attain adult size by their fi rst winter, but not only must they grow, they must learn

to hunt or they won’t survive. Once at adult size, they have to leave their parent’s territory.

As a wildlife photographer, summer is both one of the best times to capture images and one of the most diffi cult. Wild animals don’t normally parade their youngsters around. Finding the little ones is frequently far more dif-fi cult than actually getting the photo. Nests and mammal dens are usually well hidden, and dense summer foli-age means that you can be mere feet from a hidden fawn or a nest without spotting it. But the good news is that, like human children, wildlife young don’t like to stay put if they can help it, and they are often noisy. Both noise

and movement are good guides for lo-cating them.

In addition to enjoying photograph-ing young wildlife, I am absorbed by their rapid development and fas-cinated by the differing strategies various species take in raising their young. For instance, songbird young are helpless, must be fed until they can leave the nest, and don’t leave the nest until they have reached adult size (which is also their fi rst fl ight). This development strategy is called “altri-cial” by scientists. Most are cared for by both parents, which must feed and “brood” them to keep them warm.

Ducklings, goslings and ruffed grouse chicks are born covered with down and are completely mobile within hours. They aren’t fed by par-ents, but feed themselves. Brooding does occur in nasty weather or at night, but frequently the chicks just sleep next to their mother. This type of development is called “precocial” and in most of these species, only the female cares for the young.

After nursing has ended, most pred-ator species, like foxes and wolves, continue to feed their young and then gradually expose them to the hunt. Most prey species, like deer, don’t

Hurry Up and GrowYoung broad-winged hawks peer from their nest in an aspen tree.

Mallard ducklings are the defi nition of “cute.”

Through My Lens BY MICHAEL FURTMAN


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feed their offspring after they’ve been weaned, but do show them where the best food sources are located.

Besides enjoying learning about these differences, I also enjoy simply watch-ing young wildlife. Although some are

downright ugly (baby hawks and owls, for instance), most young animals are pretty doggone cute. And it is fun to watch them explore their world and play. Yes—many do play, especially the deer and foxes I’ve watched.

The author has frequently observed fox pups at play.


If you want mobility and creature com-forts in the great outdoors you can’t beat an RV, especially if you have kids. Bunks, a bathroom, kitchen and security can all be part of the RV experience.

RVs or “recreational vehicles” can go from as simple as a pop-up tent trailer to as pimped-out as a rock star’s tour bus; it all depends on your needs and your budget.

Travel trailers, slide-in truck campers, motorhomes, sport utility RVs (the front is the living area, the back is a mini-garage for sleds, ATVs, motorcycles, and toys), ice fi shing house RVs, as well as RVs designed to accommodate the special needs of the disabled, are available to suit your particu-lar situation.

Many places rent RVs, so you can try be-fore you buy and enjoy RV camping with-out a substantial fi nancial investment.

CampsitesMinnesota has thousands of places to

camp, but all of them don’t cater to RVs, so call ahead or check online before you head out. When you do fi nd an RV-friendly campground do your best to arrive around noon, because some campsites are avail-able on a fi rst-come, fi rst-served basis. You want the best site you can get.

Speaking of choosing a campsite, be aware of your RV’s dimensions (height, length, width) and turning radius. We know from fi rsthand experience that backing an RV into a small campsite can be challenging to say the least. Trying to maneuver a big

vehicle backwards in the deep, dark woods at night can leave battle scars from low-hanging branches, and at least a couple of do-overs before ending up in the right place on the campsite.

That’s the other reason to arrive around noon: it’s a lot easier to spot your RV in the daylight than in the dark (when it’s also often rain-ing).

What to ExpectSome commercial camp-

grounds cater to entertain-ing the kids, with amenities like swimming pools, orga-nized activities, bike trails, and the like. Individual sites are often “pull-through,” so no embarrassing backing in is required. They also typically offer water, sewer, and electrical hook-ups.

Campgrounds run by federal, state, and local governments tend to be more spar-tan (but cheaper) than their commercial counterparts. Amenities may include a boat launch, a swimming area, fresh wa-ter (from a spigot or hand pump), nice pit toilets (fancy outhouses), walking/biking trails, and a relatively quiet environment depending on the campground and time of year.

When you arrive at a campground and

see another camper way off in the far cor-ner, don’t park your RV in the site next to them. There’s a reason those folks chose a spot away from everyone else – let them enjoy their solitude.

Have fun, but keep the noise down; you’re enjoying nature, not a frat party. Avoid crossing another campsite on your way to the lake or to other destinations, take the trail or road instead.

Keep your pets on a leash, and pick up the excrement as you’re walking. You don’t want to step in dog doo, do you? Neither does anyone else.

Don’t be afraid to be pleasant to your fel-low campers, otherwise you could miss outon the opportunity to make new friends.

The Bottom LineRV camping is great for families, or

groups of friends to travel and camp to-gether without the hassles of airlines, ho-tels, and rental cars.

Try it – it’s a lot of fun.

Camping with Wheels

RV's bring Creature comforts Outdoors

By Lee Boyt

Camping with an RV allows you to have creature comforts in a self-contained rig. COURTESY OF EXPLORE MINNESOTA TOURISM AND GO Rving

Basic Campground Etiquette


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One Hour Moose Scouting Tour

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1 ½ Hour Border Cruise$360 total

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The Nipigon River is the greatest trout water in the world. It’s cold, clear and home to brook trout that can grow to preposterous sizes. In 1915 the world record brookie was caught in the river by Dr. J.W. Cook. The re-cord is one of the oldest remaining all-tackle fi shing records and it will quite likely never be toppled. Clearly, when it comes to trout fi shing the Nipigon is special.

That being said, the Nipigon is merely a shadow of the mighty river it was when Dr.

Cook landed his 14.8-pound monster brooktrout. Three hydroelectric dams have stilledand buried most of the river’s once-torren-tial rapids. Only a few ripples of upwellingwater exist where mighty Virgin Falls oncethundered and sent cold spray 100 feet intothe air. The dams tamed this wild beast togenerate vast amounts of power. Today theriver also has more water than it did 100years ago due to a large diversion into LakeNipigon from the Ogoki system. This hascreated some erosion problems. Decades of

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Fishing the World’s Greatest Trout Water:

The Nipigon

Native brook trout reach trophy size in the Nipigon River, where the author caught and released this beauty.


log drives on the river also left the river-bed littered with logs and bark. Despite all these changes, the brook trout somehow survived, and the Nipigon remains one of the great cold-water fi sheries of the world. All serious trout fi shermen dream of fi sh-ing the river at least once.

For the angler, the Nipigon poses unique challenges. The river is Lake Superior’s largest tributary and even in low-water conditions, it’s very swift and deep, also, the water levels can change. The shore fi sherman has to be extremely careful and wad-ing can be dan-gerous. However, Alexander’s Dam, located on the Pine Portage Road north of the town of Nipigon, provides excel-lent shore fi sh-ing opportunities. Anglers can even fi sh from a viewing platform near the dam. Brook trout are often caught from shore below Alexander’s dam, but you can also hook into lake trout, steelhead and Chinook salmon. Casting spoons, spinners and bucktail jigs with spinning gear accounts for most successful catches. However, fl y anglers can do very well, especially in late June and early July, when the mayfl y hatch is on. The boils of trout eating may-fl ies during the hatch can be seen all over the river—it’s one of the few times on the Nipigon when a dry fl y angler can out-fi sh all other fi shermen.

Although shore fi shing can be fruitful, the Nipigon River is really best fi shed from a boat, due to its size. The boat doesn’t need to be a large craft, but should be at least 14 feet long with a 15 horsepower (de-pendable) outboard motor due to some of the rapids on the river. Anglers who fi sh from boats generally troll deep-diving crank baits like the Rapala Shad Rap or J-13. Aggressive salmon and steelhead love to hit wobbling baits, and these lures work

well in the swift waters. For anglers who prefer to cast, spoons, spinners or jigs can be tossed towards shore and drifted with the current. Brook trout are particularly susceptible to this technique.

It should be noted that there are special regulations and sanctuaries on the Nipigon River. An angler can only legally keep a Nipigon brook trout that is over 22 inches, and the limit is one fi sh. Most anglers on the river release all the brook trout they catch to help preserve the fi shery.

The Fisherman's Picnic Annual

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The skin of the world record brook shown above was lost in a fi re, though the catch remains among the most famous angling records.

Life Vests


South of the Border Sporto’s

C · a · f · eStop in for a great breakfast before you head out.

Breakfast Served All Day

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Specialty Coffee - Whole Leaf Tea - Gourmet Soups - Bakery Goods - Homemade SandwichesWe go to incredible lengths to select the nest individual beans for your locally owned Dunn Bros Coffee Stores.

Each single-origin bean reects the unique nuances of the farm where it was grown. We take great joy in offering different varieties of coffee roasted daily in our store.

We think you’ll take great joy in drinking them.

Dunn Bros Coffee2401 London RoadDuluth, MN 55812

(218) 724-88382 Blocks West of Blackwoods Restaurant, across

from the Edgewater Hotel and WaterparkHEDSTROM LUMBER COMPANY

SAWMILL TOURSHedstrom Lumber Co. will be offering tours of the

Sawmill and Planing Mill

TOUR TIMES: TUES. 12:302 PM | FRI. 1011:30 AM

BEGINNING JUNE 26

Special group tours available upon request. Limited group size per tour.

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Northwoods Vacationson the Gunfl int Trail!

Open to the Public

By Shawn Perich

If you’ve spent time fl y-fi shing on the Gunfl int Trail, maybe you’ve met Reuben Swenson. For nearly 25 years, he’s fi shed and camped along the Trail every summer for weeks or months at a time. For Swenson, age 67, fl y fi shing is life.

In the 1980s, Swenson divorced and subsequently sold the restau-rant he owned and operated. After moving back to his hometown of Mahtowa, he had a heart attack. He was 41. Swenson’s recovery was slow. He couldn’t return to work and was frustrated with a shut-in existence.

Then he went trout fi shing with a friend who introduced him to fl oat tubes. Floating in the water ensconced in a tube, Swenson dis-covered he relaxed and felt much better.

In 1987, Swenson started fi sh-ing full time. A fl y-fi shing nomad, he spends his summers along the North Shore and winters by the great trout rivers of Arkansas. Living on a

meager Social Security income, his Toyota pickup is his home. He carries everything he needs in the truck and, during the warm months, sleeps in the back. While he lives as a lone no-mad, Swenson isn’t lonely, because he has many friends who fi sh with him.

Although he maintains a busyfi shing schedule, Swenson’s healthstill restricts what he can do. All ofhis fi shing occurs in places wherehe can easily get to the water. Atone of his favorite trout lakes, asteep stairway leads from the park-ing lot to the water. He stoppedfi shing there for several years, be-cause he could no longer climb thestairs. He returned to the lake afterhaving a pacemaker/defi brillatorimplanted. The device can restorehis heartbeat with a jolt of electricalcurrent.

“I’m a hybrid,” he quips. “I runon electricity half of the time.”

While he remains passionateabout fl y fi shing, catching fi shhas become less important. He is happy to be on the water, fi shing with friends and seeing them catch fi sh. And he plans to keep fi shing

as long as he can.

“I don’t think you are ever too oldor decrepit to fl y fi sh,” he says. “It’s alifetime pursuit. I don’t see me retir-ing from fi shing.”

Reuben Swenson—An Angling Nomad

Reuben Sweson spends his summers fl y-fi shing along the Gunfl int Trail.

By Shawn Perich

Berry picking is one of sum-mer’s sweet rewards. Blueberries are the best known wild crop, but a bounty of berries are available. The picking begins in June, when the wild strawberries appear, and continues through the fi rst frosts of October, which sweeten the high bush cranberries.

For many folks along the North Shore, the discovery of a ripe wild strawberry marks the fi rst day of summer. Their exquisite fl avor makes them a favorite of berry lovers and is made only sweeter by their diminutive size and rela-tive scarcity. It takes a determined picker to come up with enough wild strawberries to make jam.

Look for wild strawberries in places with sunny exposure and low ground cover, such as fi elds and roadsides. It’s generally easy to fi nd a few strawberries. The challenge is fi nding more than a handful of them. Rarely will you fi nd strawberries growing in an extensive patch. Instead you may need to roam about, picking a few here and a few there until you have enough for jam or other uses. An alternative is to pick do-mestic strawberries at one of the pick-your-own farms.

Blueberries begin appearing in July, although you can continue picking them well into August.

Preferring sunshine and sandy soils, blueberry shrubs prolifer-ate following a forest disturbance such as a wild fi re. Recently burned areas offer prime picking, but you can also fi nd blueberries in cutover areas, forest edges and pine uplands. Most folks have fa-vorite places to pick. If you are new to blueberry picking, ask some locals where to fi nd them.

Some folks pick blueberries by the gallon, while others have just enough patience to pick a cup or

two. Regardless of your picking fortitude, it pays to stroll through the patch and pick the plumpest berries you can fi nd. If you can go picking a day or two after a summer rain, so much the bet-ter, because newly ripened ber-ries plump up with the additional moisture. Dry conditions can cause berries to be small and not very sweet.

Wild raspberries also ripen in July and August. Abundant and easy to pick, raspberries are found

in sunny, open areas. It doesn’t take long to pick enough raspber-ries for a batch of muffi ns or a pie. The only drawback is that you must stand among raspberry stalks prickly with small thorns. It’s a good idea to wear long pants.

Other berries you may happen upon include thimble berries, which are common along the Superior Hiking Trail. Growing in semi-shaded forest areas, thim-ble berries are large, tangy-sweet red berries some folks use to make

jam. June berries, also called ser-vice berries or Saskatoons, growon shrubs along the forest edge,ripening around early August.The berries look like big blueber-ries and can be used the same way.Chokecherries, which also growon shrubs, ripen in late summerand are popular with wine mak-ers. Cranberries, both the groundlevel and high bush varieties, alsoripen late in the season and can beused to make sauces.

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Summer is Berry Time

Blueberry picking is a matter of perseverance. It takes time to pick enough berries for a fresh pie (left). Seek out plump berries (above) for the best fl avor. SHAWN PERICH



Don’t get me going on kale.

You would have heard an earful six months ago.

Awful.

Yech.

Too strong for me.

And then I discov-ered dinosaur kale, or Lacinato kale, a cul-tivar originating in Italy that is—dare I say this?—absolutely yummy.

It’s not unusual for vegetable vari-eties to taste differently, but in the case of kale, vive la difference.

Most of the kale you’ll fi nd in stores is curly kale, and it’s a little too tough (I’m being polite) and strong-fl avored for my taste. Dino kale, on the other hand, sings in your mouth. It is very tender and just tastes like good health.

Which, of course, all kales are. They’re loaded with Vitamin A and C as well as potassium, calcium and iron, and are a great source of fi ber, too. No wonder “Eat More Kale” signs are popping up on bumper stickers and T-shirts all over the country.

It’s not hard to grow, either, al-though it does prefer cool weather. It can get bitter in the summer heat, so it’s best as a spring and fall crop.

Frost doesn’t bother it much, so you can be harvesting kale for soups, casseroles and the very pop-ular kale chips (see recipe below) deep into fall.

It likes fertile soil and regular wa-tering, but, since it’s a member of the cabbage family, cabbage worms can be a problem. Putting row covers over the plants prevents the moths from getting to the plants to

lay their eggs. Or you can just be diligent and check the leaves for eggs and worms.

Kale harkens back to Europe in the Middle Ages. It ar-rived in this country in the mid-1800s. A Russian variety called Red Russian is deli-cious. Seeds for many different varieties are available in many seed

catalogs, including Seed Savers Exchange.

I’m going to grow a bunch of it this year, both to eat fresh (young kale leaves are good in salads, and can even be substituted for lettuce in sandwiches) as well as freeze for the winter. Kale can be an expen-sive green, but if you grow your own and freeze it, it’s defi nitely af-fordable.

Brianna Schueller, who gardens in Cook County and likes to eat kale as often as possible, grows and freezes large quantities each year. Here’s her advice:

“The key is blanching it fi rst in boiling salt water. That just takes a few minutes. Then I twist little single-serving ‘lumps’ onto a dish towel to dry out a bit before I freeze them. I make sure the lumps of kale aren’t touching in the freezer so when I am ready to eat them I can take them out one at a time. I store beet greens this way too.”

I’m assuming that once the kale lumps are frozen, they can be stacked into freezer bags and stored that way.

I’m looking forward to enjoying some great soups and casseroles this winter featuring my homegrown dinosaur kale.

Kale and Error

the Accidental GardenerBY JOAN FARNAM

Ribollita3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling4 celery stalks, chopped3 med. cloves garlic, chopped2 med. carrots or equiv. winter squash, chopped1 med. red onion, chopped1 can crushed tomatoes1/2 tsp crushed red pepper fl akes1 pound lacinato kale, stems trimmed off and leaves well chopped2 cans cooked white or cannellini beans1/2 pound crustless loaf of bread1 1/2+ tsp fi ne grain sea saltzest of one lemonlots of well-chopped oily black olives

In your largest thick-bottomed pot over medium heat combine the olive oil, celery, garlic, carrot, and red onion. Cook for 10 -15 minutes, avoid any browning. Stir in tomatoes and red pepper fl akes, simmer for 10 minutes or so, long enough for the tomatoes to thicken. Stir in kale, 3 cups of the beans, and 8 cups water. Bring to a boil, re-duce the heat, and simmer until greens are tender, about 15 minutes.

In the meantime, mash remaining beans with a

generous splash of water until smooth. Tear bread into bite-sized chunks. Stir beans and bread into soup. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until soup thickens, 20 - 30 minutes. Stir in the lemon zest, salt to taste.

Serve immediately, or cool and refrigerate over-night. Serve reheated, or “ribollita” meaning re-boiled, the next day. Finish bowls with drizzle of olive oil and chopped olives.

Makes a large pot of soup - enough for 10 serv-ings. Prep time: 20 min - Cook time: 60 min

Kale Chips1 bunch fresh kale1 tbsp olive oilSalt to taste

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Wash kale leaves, remove stems and tear into bite-sized pieces. Pat dry. Place in large bowl and drizzle olive oil over them. Toss to coat leaves. Add a little salt and pepper, if desired.

Place kale on a baking sheet greased lightly or covered with parchment paper and bake in oven for 10 to 15 minutes, or until they’re crispy.

Kale Recipes

Dinosaur or Lacinato kale is easy to grow and delicious.


Make your “up north” experience unforgettable

Animal Tracks Field Guide

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The Lives of Wolves, Coyotes and Foxes

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Constellations Activity Book

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Look for these titles at your favorite book

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Lake Superior Agates Guide

Locate and identify the region’s agates

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AHNISNABAE ART GALLERYoffers a spectacular collection of handmade Canadian

Native crafts, as well as Fine Art Assorted Prints Sculptures Masks T-shirts Music JewelryLeatherwork: Moccasins, Gauntlets, etc. Artcards

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T H U N D E R B A YA R T G A L L E RY

Celebration of SummerBOOK REVIEWS

A History of Lutsen: Gateway to the Wilderness

By Robert McDowell

LUTSEN HISTORY PRESS, 2012

Robert McDowell has written the quintessential history of Lutsen in this handy paperback. The book is full of fascinating historical pho-tographs and documents which chronicle the founding of Lutsen in the 1800s through its growth into a local economic engine. McDowell includes interviews with descen-dants of Charles Axel Nelson, who established Lutsen Resort, as well as lots of anecdotes and memories of those who carved a world out of the wilderness. —Joan Farnam

Two Bucks and a Can of GasModel A Adventures on the Gunfl int Trail

By Robert A. Olson

NORTH SHORE PRESS $14.95

Growing up in Duluth, Bob Olson discovered the Gunfl int Trail as a teenager. Driving a Ford Model A handed down through his family, he explored the Gunfl int’s lakes and forests. He eventually built two cabins there, including his present home. This enjoyable mem-oir tells of an era when there were less people and fewer conveniences in the northwoods.—Shawn Perich

TwanMo

B

N

thMexehopn

Bks

anda

Canof G

as - Model A Adventures on the Gunflint Trail

Robert R. Olson

Robert R. Olson

Two Bucks and a Can of Gas

Model A Adventures on the Gunint Trail

Trail

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61 Gems on Highway 61: A Guide to

Minnestoa’s North ShoreBy Kathryn Mayo and William Mayo

ADVENTURE PUBLICATIONS, $9.95

“61 Gems on Highway 61” is a good guide to Minnesota’s North Shore from Duluth to Grand Portage. Authors Kathryn Mayo and William Mayo have obviously explored every nook and cranny along the winding two-lane road that promises breathtaking views of Lake Superior, hidden beaches and lots of history. The book is well-organized with good information about well-known attrac-tions as well as charming places that few, ex-cept the locals, have ever discovered.

—Joan Farnam

Loon’s Nest Gift Shop

Northwoods Handcrafted Items

The shop is open to mid-October!

A unique gift shop Stop in and browse. We have something for everyone, specializing in handcrafted gifts made right here at


I am a person who doesn’t have a good sense for spirits. It’s not that I don’t believe in them, but I think you’re ei-ther born to see them or you’re not. That said, even I knew we weren’t alone the night we camped on Massacre Island in the Quetico’s Kawa Bay.

There were two reasons I wanted to visit Kawa Bay. The fi rst was a story by Sigurd Olson. He told of a Canadian archeological dig that inves-tigated the mysteries of the island in the 1930s. The second reason was to reach the burial place of most of the Kawa Bay band of Ojibwe people. The tribe was decimated by the Spanish fl u in the winter of 1918. Bill Magie told me the tragic tale of their Chief Blackstone’s long walk toward Ely. He made the trek in search of help for his stricken people, but it was futile—Black-stone died en route.

My partner and I landed on Kawa Bay’s Massacre Island after two days of steady paddling. The island is crescent-shaped with a large rock promontory on its north-west end offering ample camping space, and the high spot on the island provides a panorama of Kawnipi Lake. I noticed that many of the old pines covering the island had vertical scars on their spindly trunks.

It looked as if the marks were made by someone throwing hatchets and trying to stick them into the trunks. I won-dered if this was the place where the brigade of long-dead voyageurs met their end at the hands of native warriors long ago.

Our tent was ready for the night, and our supper was cooking on the fi re when darkness fell over the bay. I threw more wood on the fi re

after supper to chase back the chilly dark-ness. Both my partner and I felt we were not alone on Massacre Island. Without saying a word I walked over to our packs and retrieved a small pouch of pipe tobac-co. Before setting out on the trip I knew I wanted to offer the dead a token of respect with a gift of tobacco. I returned to the bright warmth of the fi re, reached into the pouch and pulled out a generous handful of aromatic tobacco. I tossed the tobacco into the warm fl ickering light where the greedy fl ames devoured it. The scent of burnt Flying Dutchman rose towards the star-fi lled sky. It was a fragrant offering of appeasement to the souls of Massacre Island, and as the pungent smoke rose into the cool night air the feeling of resentment lessened around us. We both felt that the spirits had accepted our goodwill offering.

My partner and I slept well that night, secure in the feeling that the spirits of Massacre Island stood like silent guards over our peace-ful slumber.

The next morning we paddled over to the long sand beach on the north shore of Kawa Bay. Long pine logs with fl attened tops lay in the sand. The logs likely offered seating to those who once looked out over the tea-colored water toward Massacre Island. In front of the weathered benches were fi re rings that had known no fi res since the spring of 1919. That was when the few re-maining members of the Kawa Bay Band had been moved to Lac La Croix after help fi nally arrived. By then it was too late to combat the fl u. All they could do was bury the dead and comfort the living.

We then followed Bill Magie’s directions to a small knoll of Norway pines.

“That’s where the Canadian Rangers buried the band members when the ice had gone from the Hunter’s Island,” he had said. Magie told me that they had buried the band members in small square plots ringed

w i t h stones. They

marked the place with a large cairn of

rocks topped with a cross of freshly peeled

white pine to honor thepeople who long called Kawa

Bay home.

We found the place just as Magie described it, but time had left its own markon the long-forgotten cemetery. The once-bright pine cross had turned silver and layin two pieces atop the mossy cairn, and thesandy graves were covered by a blanket ofburnt-orange pine needles. We felt a greatsense of peace when we said a prayer andsprinkled tobacco over the stones aroundthe graves. The wind whispered quietly aswe left the sacred ground on the shores ofthe beautiful bay. We paddled west towarddistant adventures, and away from the si-lent dead who still call Kawa Bay home.

MinnesotaMade!

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The Boundary Waters & Quetico Calendar, Books for Children and Adults, Note Cards and Journals

Call for our catalog or visitour website to view all ourbooks and gifts. Order byphone or mail, on-line, orask at your favorite store.

Campfire StoriesIRON MIKE HILLMAN

Bay of Spirits


By Deane MorrisonUNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA

STARWATCH

June - July

wild Real EstateRETAIL

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MUSEUMSExplore area history with a trip to the Ely-Winton Historical Society Museum. Located at Vermillion College, 1900 East Camp Street, Ely. Open Tues.-Fri. 12 noon - 4 p.m.

LAND OWNERS

For information about placing your classifi ed ad, contact Amber at [email protected]

Gift, flag, souvenir shop on Hwy 17 at Kakabeka Falls, Ontario. 1500 sq ft of rented space. A growing business

open year round, but, could be seasonal. Catering to tourists and locals. Private Sale. $140,000

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June’s best star watching happens in the daytime as Venus makes a rare tran-sit across the face of the sun. Try not to miss it; this is the last transit of Venus until December 2117.

The show starts at 5:04 p.m. June 5, when the planet fi rst makes contact with the northeastern edge of the sun. Venus will then spend six hours trac-ing a line across the northern part of the sun.

From our Midwestern vantage point, the sun will set with Venus still a dark dot on its face. To see the spectacle, take the same precautions as with a solar eclipse: only watch it live under the guidance of a trusted professional. If in doubt, watch it on TV or online.

By crossing the sun, Venus enters the morning sky where it joins Jupiter. The pair will dazzle on July 15, when a waning crescent moon shines be-tween the two planets (Venus is lower). Joining the group just to the west are the bright star Aldebaran and the Hyades star cluster, which to-gether defi ne the face of Taurus, the bull. Look about 90 minutes before sunrise and bring your binoculars.

But Venus and its cohorts aren’t the only show in town. Mars, now in the west af-ter sunset, moves steadily eastward toward

Saturn. The ringed planet is now low in the southto southwest, just above bright Spica, in Virgo.

June’s full “strawberry” moon undergoes a par-tial eclipse in the predawn hours of the June 4,when it dips its southernmost part in the Earth’sinner, dark umbral shadow. The moon entersEarth’s penumbra at 3:48 a.m. CDT and makescontact with the umbra at 5 a.m. The moon setsat 5:19 a.m., with the umbra shading a small partof its southern face.

July’s full moon arrives on the July 3. It is knownas the thunder moon because it’s the time whenthunderstorms are most frequent.

The University of Minnesota off ers public viewings of the night sky at its Duluth and Twin Cities campuses. For more information and viewing schedules, see:

Duluth, Marshall W. Alworth Planetarium: • www.d.umn.edu/planet

Twin Cities, Minnesota Institute for Astrophysics • (during fall and spring semesters): www.astro.umn.edu/outreach/pubnight

Fishing Camp, The GameIs a rainy day keeping your family cooped up in the cabin? Gather

them around the table for a game of Fishing Camp. A board game well suited to children, Fishing Camp has four levels of trivia questions from Beginner to Expert, so the game will challenge fi shing fanatics, too. Fishing Camp is rated for ages 4 and up and can be played by 2-8 people. Fishing Camp retails for $24.99. The game can be purchased at www.educationoutdoors.net. —Shawn Perich

Little GriddleExpand your outdoor cooking options with Little Griddle. Designed

to be used with a gas or charcoal grill, the Little Griddle slides over the grill. Made of stainless steel, it has even heat distribution across the cooking surface. Side panels prevent the food you’re cooking from sliding off the griddle. It has a grease trap, too. Little Griddle comes in various sizes, including a half size that allows you to grill at the same time. Clean up is quick and easy. Learn more at www.littlegriddle.com. —Shawn Perich


80 Skyport LaneGrand Marais, MN 55604218-387-1687

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218-663-7643 www.sawtoothoutfitters.com

By Beth Waterhouse,

One hundred years ago, 28-year-old Ernest Oberholtzer and his Ojibwe guide and friend, Billy Magie, paddled and portaged some 2,000 miles through rugged and unmapped territory.

They traveled—two men in one canoe—from The Pas, Manitoba up to Nueltin, and then they ca-noed off the map and eventually ar-rived, as they’d hoped, at Hudson Bay. There, they made their way to Churchill with the help of an Inuit man and his family. The canoeing did not get eas-ier with the long tides of Hudson Bay, but they paddled south to York Factory. Then, in October and upstream, they canoed the Hayes River, arriving at Norway House, Manitoba, two days after the last steamboat of the season had departed.

Their fi nal 260 miles of canoeing in Lake Winnipeg in November’s snow and ice should have killed them both, but not only did the two return to Gimli in fair health, but Oberholtzer also brought back six small journals and over 150 excellent photographs taken of that journey.

This all happened 100 years ago this coming summer, and we are noticing.

Earlier this year, Bob Hilke (good friend of Oberholtzer and his legacy) and Nancy Jones (granddaughter of Billy Magie) toured the various communities that Ober (as he is fondly called) and Billy passed through 100 years ago. They began in The Pas and will end in Thompson,

Manitoba, assisted by Mr.Les Oystryk of Creighton,Saskatchewan.

Les Oystryk explainedhis enthusiasm: “It is astretch for people to imag-ine these two friends, onean American and one aCanadian, traveling as faras the ‘end of the steel’ andthen venturing off in an18-foot canoe on a 2,000 mile trip that took them deep into the Northwest Territories. Plus, this epic

voyage has almost gone unnoticed in terms of Canadian history. I have only heard of one or two people in my area who were previously aware of these accomplishments, even across several generations of seasoned canoeists.”

One hundred years is a very long time, and it’s longenough that any human life and human accomplishments remembered across 10 decades have obviously been nur-tured and recalled by a few generations of younger people. In Ernest Oberholtzer’s case, there is a foundation cre-ated in his name and hundreds who are attracted to his life of wilderness advocacy in Congress or in the State of Minnesota. Ober’s life work led directly to the creation of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness.

A book of Ober’s journals from that trip was publishedby the Foundation this spring and will be shared on the tour. "Bound for the Barrens," was launched at Open Book in Minneapolis on April 7, then again in Ranier in June. See www.eober.org for more details.

An Epic, Forgotten Adventure

Re-live the Old

Days!At local

bookstores now or go to

lutsenhistory.com

North Shore Community Radio

Listen online at www.wtip.org

Your connection to Minnesota’s North Shore culture, history, events,

weather, news, and entertainment

90.7 FM North Shore • 90.1 FM Grand Portage89.1 FM Gunflint Trail

Ober and Billy Magie rest at a remote campsite. ERNEST OBERHOLTZER FOUNDATION

Bite, the Inuit man who assisted Ober and Billy Magie, regards Ober from his kayak. ERNEST OBERHOLTZER FOUNDATION

Re-live the Old

Days!Get your copy at• local bookstores• amazon.com• lutsenhistory.com


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Welcome to Golden Eagle Lodge, a family oriented, year round resort. We are located on Flour Lake in Northeastern Minnesota on the historic Gunfl int

Trail and are surrounded by the Superior National Forest. As we are the only residents on the lake, you can look forward to quiet and solitude. We offer modern, housekeeping cabins to ensure comfort during your stay in the North Woods.

Each season has something special to offer, excellent fi shing and canoeing in Summer and nationally-renowned Nordic Cross-

Country Skiing in Winter. Our 4 Seasons page will describe in detail all each season has to offer.

Try our 9-site campground which offers quiet and personal service. Each site has water and electric hookups.

We go out of our way to ensure every aspect of your visit will convince you to come back and see us again. We know much time, effort and expense is invested in a vacation, and we are honored you’re considering us as a destination. You won’t be disappointed!

· www.Golden-Eagle.comwww.Gunfl intCamping.com · www.FlourLake.com

www.Gunfl intCanoeing.com

Unspoiled and Unforgettable...

“Quiet...Spectacular...Solitude, you’ll fi nd it here in any season.”

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