No-Tox Botox: Natural Anti-Aging Ingredients Explained

Moderator: Jessica Rubino, Senior Associate Editor, Delicious LivingDr. Linda Miles, L. Ac. DOM, Derma e BodycareChris Fields, VP Technology & Science NutriCosmetics /AFS

Hyperpigmentation  Collagen/Elastin  Fine lines/Wrinkles  Inflammation Overall skin health 

No-Tox Botox: Natural Anti-Aging Ingredients Explained

Hyperpigmentation   Inflammation Overall skin health 

PhotoDamage – Sun Protection

Reduced Cell Turnover

Cells remain on the surface longer

Cellular mitosis creates abnormal keratinocytes

Epidermal structure becomes disorganized

Melanocytes over-produce melanosomes

Hyperpigmentation

Damaged collagen and elastin weakens dermal connective tissue

Elasticity degradation

Stratum Corneum:thick and dehydrated

Skin cells areMisshaped &disorganized

Excess melaninCausing unevenSkin tone

Collagen & elastinfibers become weak & damaged

Natural Solutions

Hydrating Anti-Inflammatory

Antioxidants Depigmenting

Olive Oil Chamomile Vitamin A, C, E Licorice

Colloidal Oatmeal

Colloidal Oatmeal Coffee Extract Mulberry

Hyaluronic Acid

Feverfew Green / Black Tea Extract

Arbutin

Melon Extract

Zinc Pomegrate Soy

Krill Oil Fish Oil Grape Seed Extract

Aloesin

Sea Buckhorn

COQ10 Acai Berry Extract

Linoleic Acid

Ceramides Vitamin C Resveratrol Niacinamide

Inflammation

Avenanthramide (ug/ml) - MOA

Unstimulated Stimulated 1 10 100150

160

170

180

190

200

210

220

230

240

250IL

-8 R

ele

ase (

pg

/ml)

fro

m

Kera

tin

ocyte

s

Agents with adjunctive therapeutic potential in atopic dermatitisWallo et al, 65th Annual AAD, Feb 2006, Washington DC

Avenanthramides- Clinical Evidence

0.5 5 500

20

40

60

80

100

120

PPM

Net

His

tam

ine R

ele

ase

(%)

Oat Avenanthramides: new actives to reduce itch sensation in skin. SchmausEt al, 23rd Congress of Intr Fed of Soc Cos Chemists, Oct 2006 Orlando FL

Feverfew

Tierney et al – 63rd Annual Meeting of the AAD – inhibition of UV Radiation induced erythema

Liebel et al, ADD Feb 2005 – demonstrated strong anti-inflammatory properties

Nebus et al ADD Feb 2005 – Significant improvement in erythema (n=31)

Compound Mediator Release (TNF-α ICD50 (ug/ml)

Feverfew PFE 0.13Green Tea 4.6Echinacea 20Boswelia seratta 24.5Licorice Extract 54.7Black tea 79.9White Tea 125Bisabolol 160Chamomile 320Aloe Vera 535Olive Leaf 675

PFE - purified feverfew extractTNF-α ICD50 = conc req to achieve 50% inhibition of tumor necrosis factor-α Johson & Johnson, 2006

Glycyrrhiza- Licorice

Anti-bacteria

Anti-protozoan

Anti-tumor

Depigmentation

ANTI-INFLAMMATORY:Razor TestShaved SkinUV Induced Erythema TestHemoglobin reflectanceCytokine production

Focus on Erythema, measure skin redness of shaven skin using reflectance spectroscopy

Contro

l

Vehicl

e

LicA

ext

ract

(.0

25%

Lico

rice)

0

1

2

3

4

5

Skin

Red

ness

Δ a

-valu

es

Anti-inflammatory efficacy of Licochalcone AKolbe et al Arch Dermatol Res (2008)

Hyperpigmentation

Two Forms of Melanin produced in the Epidermis:PheomelaninEumelanin

Melanin Biosynthesis (melanogenesis)GeneticsEnvironmentalLifestyleMedications

ProductionAction of the Enzyme Tyrosinase

CopperOxygen Sulfur

Melanin Production Pathways

Melanin Production

Pigmentation pathway:

Tyrosinase Inhibition

Inhibition of melanin/melanosome transport into keratinocytes

Increased Epidermal turnover

Tyrosinase

Activated Tyrosinase

Melanin

Transcription of the

tyrosinase Gene

Signals:UVIrritationHormonesRadicals

Keratinocytes

Glycosylation+ sugar

Tyrosine

Melanin is packed into melanosomes

Melanin Production

Pigmentation pathway:

Tyrosinase Inhibition

Inhibition of melanin/melanosome transport into keratinocytes

Increased Epidermal turnover

Tyrosinase

Activated Tyrosinane

Melanin

Transcription of the

tyrosinase Gene

Signals:UVIrritationHormonesRadicals

Keratinocytes

Glycosylation+ sugar

Tyrosine

Melanin is packed into melanosomes

ActivityInhibitors:Kojic AcidArbutinLicorice

GlycationInhibitors:N-acetylglucosamine

Gene production inhibitors:retinoids

Signal Reduction:Sunscreen, AA

Melanosome Transfer Inhibition:Niacinamide, Soy Protein

A review of the historyMechanism Ingredient Activity

UV Absorption Titanium dioxide, oxybenzone

Blocks UV

Tyrosinase synthesis inhibitor

Glucosamine, galactosamine

Exhibits cytotoxic effects

Tyronsinase Inhibitor Ascorbic Acid, kojic acid, mulberry extract, licorice, arbutin, Curcuminoids

Melanin Biosynthesis Kojic acid Chelates copper ions

Cytotoxic effects to melanocytes

Hydroquinone Safety Issues

Reduce preformed melanin

Tocopherols, ascorbic acid

Inhibits polymerization of melanin

Endothelin-1 inhibitor Chamomilla extractErigeron breviscapus

Inhibits ET-1 induced DNA synthesis

Active Soy Performance

Hyperpigmentation Blotchiness Dullness Fine Lines Overall Skin Tone Overall Appearance0

10

20

30

40

50

60

Active-Soy Vehcle

Mean %

Im

pro

vem

ent

from

Base

line

Efficacy of Soy Moisturizer in PhotoAging, Wallo et al, JDD, Sept 2007

Erigeron breviscapus

Control Arbutin (0.74mM)

EB 1μm EB 5μm EB 10μm0

20

40

60

80

100

120

Tyro

sin

ase A

cti

vit

y (

%)

Depigmentation of Melanocytes by Matricaria Acid Methyl Ester isolated from Erigeron breviscapus. Luo et al, Biol Pharm Bull 32(6) 2009

Combination TherapyNiacinamide & N-acetyl glucosamine

0 4 6 8

-0.1

-8.32667268468867E-17

0.0999999999999999

0.2

0.3

0.4

0.5

0.6

Niacin+NAG Vehicle

Mea

n C

hang

e in

% s

pot

area

fra

ctio

n

Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation after use of moisturizer with combinationOf topical niacinamide and N-acetyl glucosamine: results of a randomized, double-blind studyKimball et al., B J Dermatol, 2010, 162(2)

0 4 6 8

-1.5

-1

-0.5

0

0.5

1

1.5

Niacin+NAG Vehicle

Mean

Ch

an

ge in

mela

nin

even

ness

fro

m b

ase

lin

e

Combination TherapyNiacinamide & N-acetyl glucosamine

Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation after use of moisturizer with combinationOf topical niacinamide and N-acetyl glucosamine: results of a randomized, double-blind studyKimball et al., B J Dermatol, 2010, 162(2)

Combination TherapyNiacinamide & N-acetyl glucosamine

Dual Sites of Activation

N-acetyl glucosamine –

Inhibits Tyrosinase

Niacinamide –

Inhibits the transfer of melanin-

containing melanosomes to the outer layers.

Inflammation+Hyperpigmentation:Combination therapies

Placebo CDG GCA Combination

-15%

-10%

-5%

0%

5%

10%

15%

20%

25%

Spots UV Damage Wrinkles

Perc

en

t im

pro

vem

en

t (v

isia

an

aly

sis)

Dr. Raval, MD Raval Facial Aesthetics, Rocky Mountain Laser Clinic, 2011CDG = Glucarate 3 w/w%GCA = Green Coffee Extract (50% CA) 3 w/w%Combination CDG+GCA (3 w/w%)

Sunscreen Advances

UVA / UVB AbsorptionZinc Oxide / Titanium Dioxide

Photostabilizers – OctocryleneAvobenzoneEcamsule

Antioxidants – Reduce ROSGreen TeaSoyVitamin C

Pisum Sativum Extract

Day 7 Day 28

-8

-6

-4

-2

0

2

4

Pea Placebo

Mela

nin

Index

(IU

)

Pisum Sativum Extract for Safe & Self-tanning, Imbert et al Cosmetics & ToiletriesAugust, 2009 V124.