1
AFTER THE BATH. (Photograph by Underwood & Unclerr/oort.) Modes Are Launched During the Big Racing Week, c.r\d the Result Is a Gamble. Fashion in the MaKing NEW-YOKK DAILY TRIBUXE, SUNDAY, JULY 11, 1910, With Only One Real Fire a Week One Fami] y Fares Sumptuously Every Day. is cooked In the flreless cooker, and *\u25a0- 1 is left over by "Wednesday is turned j^ loaf of pressed beef. On Thursday c^,* or cutlets are used, and on Friday Sometimes on Thursday or Friday ta~v^ veal potpie 13 served. The lamb [a -\ t J* i cooked In th« "tireless" and takes ont/ before it is | time to - add the duap|2 After these are dropped into the pot ft4 put on the oil stove and 13 very ca.-j^C covered, to that no steam escape* ; about twelve or fourteen minutes th»«w[ lings are done. Care must be take*aw I they do not bum. Two pies, each of a different \u25a0-»- .... j-» often a pudding, are baked on Sats^;. One of the pies is used for Saturday*!*. ner. and the pudding or an lceis*£j^ . on Sunday. The other pie is reserve ... Monday. The desserts for Tj^»- 4 - j Wednesday, Thursday and Friday «•»s** I lies. Bavarian creams and frozen des**^ that require no cooking. Mousses"."^ served often, as they freeze theaml^ ' Two loaves of cake are made on A| ifjL i to last through the week, one betnf # i kind that will Improve with keeplr,? a '.J, days. This housewife also prcpwtj Saturday a fancy German bread or laJljj meal muffins to serve for Sunday's bra*. fast with coffe«», and on the top of thtggj stove she boils a sugar cured ham or * smoked tongue, to be used gcrtgg'gm^ ing week at luncheons and or. the Siaa^ supper table. Enough boiled salad drtssj^ Is also cooked to last for some time, in >, kept covered In the refrigerator when act ij use. If Saturday chance to be a record br^ai*. In point of heat, the bakins 13 truistM^ to Monday and a pot roast, prepared «•) the tireless cooker. Is served for Tiiii^ dinner. With plenty of salads prepared from ib» mer vegetables, peas, bears, eggs, ebeasji berries, and ail sort? of summer fruity a excellent table is set throughout the «a* mer. Of course; it requires system and perience as well a some hard work on m da*', but there are two young lin|tilai who think it fun to assist at the crisis: point, and for six days there Is very Mi to be done and very little heat also £33 the kitchen. Much oil and ccal, too, m saved, which is an item worth considerf:;. When one lives In the vicinity of a M* class Vienna or French bakery, the battai of pie and cake may be omitted in feed weather, and »f one has an electric or a pi stove the bother of making and dumjirg 3 fire is saved, but a commuter's is=£j spending their summer in a subui* « nearby country village are not csaaSi blessed with this luxury. Hot Weather Cooking During -dog days." if ever, considera- tion snpuld.be shown to the. one who does the kitchen' work, be she maid. or mistress, for cooking In a hot kitchen day after day is certainly an unenviable occupation. Th.- burden." however, can bo lightened if the housewife uses some foresight nnd wisdom in her management 'and \ if the masculine head of the household is willing, to forego steaks and roasts or other foods that re- quire extreme heat to cook them. To pre- pare such dishes in a hot" kitchen •«*-\u25a0 the months of July and August H to Invite heat prostration. Most men ."do not know how hot a fire is required for roasting and broiling, and they ask for steaks and roasts rot ' because they are thoughtless and un- kind but because they are ignorant. Often, too, thty are unfamiliar with other form* of meat cookery, and they think that meat Is necessary to keep up their strength- Now, if the family will leave the bills of fare completely in the hands of the house- wife and be content to have her serve only those dishes which are easiest to prepare, and if she will use all the wisdom at her command, the family, including the mas- culine head, who dotes on roasts, will prob- ably be delighted. with the tempting, nour- ishing and refreshing : table that is laid. With jellied meat loaves, pressed chicken and other cold meats, served with spiced jelly, irresistible dishes concocted in the chafing dish, fancy cheeses, summer vege- tables served in unfamiliar ways, mayon- naise salads, chilled fruit macedonies, cus- tards, creams and frozen mousses as hot weather fare, the family will be convinced that the feminine head knows what they like far better than they do themselves. The following arrangement -exists in a certain commuter's^ household, where the housewife is "maid of all work," but Is blessed with a family that insists on easy meals: She uses her coal stove only once a week, on Saturday, when she does all her baking. .On other days she uses the tireless cooker for the preparation of vege- tables , and all foods that do not require quick cooking. or a tremendous heat. She uses an oil stove for making coffee and tea, for foods that require short, quick cooking and for fried food 3, but the last are not often attempted In hot weather. When baking day—Saturday— comes around, she bakes enough cake, bread and pie to last for most of the week and roasts a big piece of meat. For Sunday the roast is served cold, with an acid spiced jelly. On Monday the meat is chopped fine and moulded in aspic Jelly, which is prepared from a stock made by boiling the bones of the roast On Tuesday meat enouarh for two days For some reason chan«>« In millinery stem to come more quick!*.- than obansr*B In dresses. There is a decided change in ha' In the direction of wide, picturesque brim* setting low on the head and with \u25a0horter crowns than have been worn. Borne of th* summer straws are almost flat, with flop- ping brims and draped trimming. Then there is a cunning little draped toque amon* the new designs which sets over an under cap of white lace or embroidery, and in fact the lace under bonnet is also a feature of the new big hats. E. M. The following model is a rood example of its use: The undergown is of pale green moire silk covered with net in the same shade. At the lmees the overdress is gath- ered into a band of white batiste, embroid- ered in big daisies. The belt or green satin has a large motif of white embroidery front and back, and the guimpe and uridersleeve* are made up of a pattern In much smaller daisies combined with Valenciennes. ' This gown is most simple in its form, but the undergown of watered silk marks it as a new model. It has also the fashionable touch of black in the way of velvet bre- telles over the rhoulders, finished by motif* of white embroidery- The hat to: be worn with this gown is a wide brimmed affair of white straw trimmed with black ai- grettes. But although triere are few all white gowns, English embroidery has never played a more important part in the fashion? Certainly it has never before appeared fo effective, because it has never before been made up with such a variety of stuffs. Thy whiteness of a beautiful design shows v best when arranged over or with bright si'.k brocades. One often sees a flowerel silk In fcirly Jeep tones of blue, violet or the fashionable petunia co\ered with a thin net tunic inset with figures of English em- broidery. A summer model from a Rue dela Paix "Shop is made up of Valenciennes lace trimmed with flounces of English embroid- ery. There are three of these on the skirt, put on with a heading of VaL entre-deux and separated from each other by several inches. From the round neck to the top ruffle on the skirt is a double row.of em- broidered buttons, and the skirt and bodice are joined by a belt of English embroidery. So far this is one of the few all-.-white 1 gowns that the model makers have shown. : Most of the white batiste or embroidered frocks have an underfrock of color or [ are trimmed with a flowered silk or plain eati'n iof velvet. Rather a pretty idea shows "a ! frock of thin muslin over a. white silk foun- | dation, on which there is a trimming of i colored ribbons. - \u25a0 \u25a0 . - ! idea has been bo successful. and- generally ! popular that the dressmakers are trying : to hold on to it for another "season. To- i day the band is never tight enough, to im- i pede walking, and it is . beginning ;to; be curved or arranged in points and, in some erses, slightly flounced. It is possible that : we shall see it replaced in the autumn by a shaped flounce, but for the summer, at l«sast, the ornamental skirt band cut on. a istraight thread will be in good style. It is reported that skirts are to be excessively I large in the autumn.. Such would be a most astonishing development of the pres- ent modes, and one hardly to be expected; It is true, however, that with the thin materials of the ' summer we .shall un- doubtedly see fuller hems.* The ISea al- ready is to put a great deal of trimming' on the bottom of skirts, but at the same time to allow them to hang in straight l\nC3. \u25a0 ••\u25a0 \u25a0\u25a0 ". r "\u25a0'-. It is under these circumstances and be- fore the careful, critical eye of the head of the establishment that they are taught to \u25a0walk and to move so as to best show off the particular model they are wearing: tney are provided with different accesso- ries, such as parasol and reticule, and ad- vised how to carry them, and they are taught how to lean against a tree or rest ore knee and hand on an upturned chair \u25a0when chattlnj -with an acquaintance in the fcrffet. But. above all. they are taught how to pose before the many cameras that they rr.- •\u25a0•: expect to be pointed at them so as to bring out the best points of a gown. "Remember that from all over the world. America, England. Germany, Austria and even Dow from Turkey, are assembled buy- ers who from long experience qul&ly pick out the professional models and follow them about. They look the gown over and discuss its points to see ifit worth buying. If they think it is a good investment it is quite easy to discover its source. In describing P. rls mode? it is easy to neglect the claims of the young unmarried women because it is a sort of ft tradition in France that young girls do not dress much; that it is not good taste for them to adopt any style of dress that attracts at- tention. But like a lot of French traditions this has fallen a little into disuse. In truth, there are a lot of fashions that are best seen on very young- women and which have a simplicity that married women do not aways care to adopt. The early sum- mer models are curiously simple, and while they may be made striking to the point of loutiness by the accessories, chosen as they stand they are best suited to youth. The skirt banded about the bottom is re- garded already as slightlydemode, but the Paris, July 7. ; Now that the big 1 racing week ending with the Grand Prix is over, one can moralize a bit over certain of its aspects. A French- m.-ir. who is neither a sportsman nor a dressmaker, but simply a keen onlooker at \u2666his spectacle of Paris, sums it up as "all around, "the biggest gambling event in the •srcrlfi, with odds in favor of the weather prophet." It is possibly true that as much money is invested In clothes as in horse- flesh, and that the success of a new model launched by a big firm of dressmakers is as \u25a0uncertain, as is that of a horso entered for the big race. It all depends on the •weather; ' seine horses run well on wet grave! that ruins The speed of a stronger \u25a0teed, and so certain modes launched under a blue, sunny sky fall promptly to pieces •ur.d<ir cold and gloom. \u25a0 Any one not au courant with the dress- making world of Paris cannot imagine the preparation, involving ' time and money, that Is made for these events. Many women well known in the half- world and to the theatre are invited by prominent couturiers to wear their models on these occasions, and aside from this most of the houses send out ma^iUdm from their own •hops. Some of these women are experi- enced in the proper showing off of gowns, but their face:- soon get known, and often * pretty g~.r." from the workshop or new- comers Btnonc the manikins are preferred. For these girls end, in fact, for the beet display of the new costumes an out-of-door Jftress rehearsal Is necessary, and often •piore than one. A little summer place in jtlie environs of Paris is an almost neces- sary adjunct to a smart dressmaking es- tablishment, and here the girls parade ißbout in the gowns that they are to show later on at the races. ~fome ays of the XOorld Every one is familiar with that indefinite and subtle change that comes to a person's voice when speaking of a very rich rela- tion or friend, and another well known change is that of manner when one of these multimiillonaires joins a group In which the poor relation Is seated. Even the children of a family reserve their best manners for those they know to be rolling in money, and angelic behavior and buttery ton^s are the rule when the wealthy aunt Is around. Children are the reflection of what they see. and often will give as a reason for doing what appears unnatural something they have overheard or seen. Therefore, much information ;<bout the true Ftate of affair? in a family may be gleaned by observing the children. A long storm or steamer coat of seme more or less heavy woollen material is one of the few special requisites for the voyage. A good, well fitting sweater, which most women those days are sure to have, will also do good service, sometimes under the coat and aeiam without it, for the deck promenade. A steamer rug and a soft little down pillowto tuck in at the back of the neck complete the list of necessary trav- eller's supplies. The travelling rug can be hired on the steamer for from $1 to SI 50, if desired, or a second one if the voyage turna out to be cold and windy. If a woman wear* simply normal shoes the winter through In the oity at home, she is not likely to be led astray by the many writers who tell her to wear tennis shoes or rubber soles on her regular toots on the steamer. Too much emphasis cannot be laid upon the importance of shoes and ho- siery, but it is only in the way of insisting that they be the neatest and best fitting that ran be found. The woman who economizes by wearing her oid shoes would be sorry if she realized how the worn spots on the soles announce themselves vauntlnply to the world as sh«» turns them confidingly outward from her steamer chair. Tennis shoes are ugly an A uncomfortable for people who are aecuß- tomed to heel 3, and unnecessary. Rubber soles are uncomfortably warm, and they, too, are needless. When tho decks aro so vet that extra protection for the feet is required, one is likely to remain inside, or rubbers raaj always be slipped on if de- sired. Nothing is prettier for the head than the hat which matches the street suit, always providing that it is a small one. The "steamer haf is little in evidence these days ii; the better shops. This is easily un- derst .id when one sees here and there od tho steamer the absurdity of old faces under jaunty little caps, or plain ones with their ugliness accentuated by the coquet- tishness of their head coverings. With the hair firmly pinned in place a hat of any kind is little needed on the covered decks. Many persons wear veils, though it must be admitted that they often leave some- thing to be desired in the way of becoming- ness. A hit of black lace over the gray l-air_of an elderly woman is charming, and so are the hoodlike effects that have come in with the automobile and which are suit- able for women of all ages. Wash dresses are desirable for warm flays —linen coats and skirts or one-piece frocks —and it is pleasant to have a simple, one- piece silk or llsht woo! gown for dinner, though these are not necessary. If the dinner gown is cut a little low in the neck it ijives the effect of evening dress. As to underwear, there is no rV-ason why it should be any different from what ono wrars at home. High-necked and long- The woman who walks on to a steamer wearing her regular street suit Is well dressed for her voyage if the suit is trim and smart. Advice to Ocean Travellers Not Yet Superfluous. It would seem that the last word of ad- vice to the ocean traveller had been given, but any ono who has ever taken the pains to observe the flotsam and jetsam of trav- elling array that float past a steamer chair must have been convinced that there is more to b<i said. A great deal of unwise instruction, too, needs to be unlearned. Yet the whole question is very simple—a mere matter of good taste. An ocean steamer is a great floating hotel, and one dresses for it as for any other hotel. One knows, of course, that one*Vill meet many stranpers, whose first impressions will be gained from one's clothes, but the wise woman is particular about her clothes' everywhere. MORE TO BE SAID Summer wardrobes, being light in weight, can be packed in the trunk with astonish- ing ease. Too close packing, however, should be avoided, for it will crush out the new, fresh appearance which is the chief charm of summer gowns. It Is better to go on a visit with a few clothes, all crisp and uttractive looking, than to have a greater number showing creases and the wear and tear of travel. Everything, moreover, that is put into the trunk to take away should be in perfect order. Each button and tape ehould be in its place; veils should be fresh; gloves should be spotlessly clean. Women who make many visits have also learned to have even their smartest gowns arranged so that they can be put on and fastened up with comparative ease. At house parties it is frequently necessary to change the clothes very quickly, and, as every guest cannot have the service of the maid at the same time, it is weli to be in- "When I went home from boarding school for the holidays for the first time,' said a woman who is married now and has daughters of her own, "I made my Initial attempt at trunk packing. I just turned ray bureau drawers upside down, one by one. and dumped the contents in my trunk. Iteach my daughters better, for when one goes upon a visit the hostess, if she chances to be in one's room when the trunk is opened, is likely to size one up by the way the contents look, to say nothing of the maid's opinion. If they are a jumbled, tumbled mass, she is pretty sure to think—if she doesn't know one well "Dear me! I'm afraid my guest's room will be in disorder during this visit.' " There's a science in packing. Some women make a profession of it, packing other people's trunks for pay. But it i 3 a science any one may learn with a little effort, and in these days, when every one ie making week-end visits and rounds of visits, and it is so often impossible to take a maid along, it is a necessary science to know. The size of a trunk for week-end visits is of the first importance. If it is too large It will be cumbersome for the servants to handle, and there may not be space for it In the room where the owner is lodged, yet it must be large enough to hold the gowns and other things regarded &.« neces- sary Qt a fashionable week-end party. A trunk about 2 feet * Inches long by 18 tneiiea high It a convenient size. Thiß trunk will fit easily on the rack of a motor car, end this ie an important point, as so many people live some distance from railway stations and transport their guests br motor. It R&ves trouble to have a trunk marked !n some individual way. so that the owner can pick it out quickly from a truckful of baggage on the station platform. A large white ptor painted on the end of the trunk will do. or some interlocked circles, or bands of contrasting colors. Into the week-end trunk must go, for the conventional visit, an extra hat, three evening gowns, one high necked afternoon gown for special occasions, two morning gowns, plenty of lingerie, shirtwaists, shoes and slippers, and gloves, veils and other trifles. The heavy wrap, which it is prudent to take, can always be carried over the arm. icrinkled i?i Trunks. Wrinkles to Keep Clothes Un- GOING A- VISITING Miss Alice Sargent, of Brookline, Mass., expert ekipper, general athlete and heiress, Is a true sport. She announces that she wants and expects no favors on account of her sex when she sails hc-r sonder boat, the Wolf, next month In the elimination trials for the right to race against the Spanish sonder boats, which -are now on their way to America to compete for the Taft Cup. The elimination . races are set for August 8, 9 and 10 off Marblehead, the beats to be raced In three divisions, and the final international race will take place on. August 17 at the same place. The Span- ish boats, which will be here this week, represent tho Spanish Federation of Nauti- cal Clubs, and the Eastern Yacht Club is sponsor for the American boats. Misa Sargent will find her work cut out for her when she enters the elimination races, for she will have to compete with some experienced and well known skippen-. but ihe knows no feSr. She has been over the Marblehcad course until she knows it by heart, and she is confident that the Wolf will "do the best that is in her." In the 3909 sonder trials, when the American boats were picked to race against the German sordcr boats from the Kiel Yacht Club, her boat, the Sumatra, although not selected for the fins.l trial, did excellent work, and she expects the Wolf to do better. Miss Sargent, who, with her parents, Professor and Mrs. Charles S. Sargent, Is spending the summer at Marblehead TCeck, to 'oe near the yacht clubs, has won sev- eral prizes in yachting regattas, and is no fair weather yachtswoman, but is as dar- ing as the men, driving her boat out in rougti water and delighting- in a. spanking breeze. She scorns the peaceful monotony of in opi>n harbor as lens as her boat can stick outsice in open water. Siie finds it far from being child's play to steer the Miss Sargent Asks No Favor in Sonderhont Races. A TBUE SPORT. To hold semi-precious jowels, beads, belt buckles and various other ornaments, cases in imitation of the suede ones arc made of heavy linen and tucked securely to the inside of one of the compartments of the trunk. After a trunk Is supplied with a set of linen linings it often follows as a natural sequence that various pockets, made of the same stuff, are tacked to the inside of the trays and the hat box. The more certain kinds of things are kept to- gether the easier it is to find them in a trunk. and their use ha3 now become much more general than that of the heavily scented sachets that have done service during the winter. Shirtwaist cases are made of some wash material of heavy texture, and are fashioned in much the same shape as a large nightgown case. Around the edges they are bound with colored linen braid, and the Initials of the owner may be em- broidered on the outside with wash cotton. When shirtwaists are folded carefully and slipped into such cases they retain their freshness much better than if packed pro- miscuously with other things. The problem of what to do with jewels when travelling ha? been somewhat simpli- fied by the Introduction of suede jewel bags, made to be suspended from a belt worn under the sk.rt of the gown. They are fashioned in various shapes and sizes and divided into several convenient little compartments. Good ones cost not less than $3. An active woman is Miss Mary Balch, the secretary, who does this work. From 11:30 o'clock in the morning until 2:30, and from 4:50 till 8:30 o'clock on five of the week- days, and from 11:30 until 5:30 on Satur- days, she is at the committee's temporary office loaned for the summer by the Junior League at No. 42 West 39th street, at the service of all inquiring girls. In be- tween times she packs Ijer suitcase and hurries down to Long: Island or over to New Jersey to sleep at Mrs. Smith's or Mrs. Robinsons farm boarding house and find out if the beds are as good as the scenery Is said to be. Another thing she has to make sure of— that the hoarding: places and their surroundings hare nothing about •them to 'which it would be unsafe morally to expose a young girl. If all girls were as cautious as the first batch of inquirers who sought Miss Balch. there would be no fear of their getting- into dangerous places. This «-as a group of four Italian girls, and they brought men along, one big swarthy man for every girl, and a fifth man. for good measure, per- haps. "Y'see." one of the girls explained after they had talked with Miss Balch and found that her Intentions were mild, even be- nevolent, "we b'en readin' about things that happens to girls in strange offices. They're fierce, the things that happens, so Fran- cesca an' Tessa got their brothers f come an Mar aritta an' I brought our fellows Most people hay« known what it is to go away on a longed for vacation and find that the place selected !s a disappointment that the beds aren't clean, that the food Isn't eatable, that *ia lake Is four miles away Instead of next door, as the adver- tisement said. This experience is exasper- ating under any circumstances; it is a tragedy -when the vacation Is the victim's one free week or fortnight in the whole year and the money for the trip was squeezed out of a wage of 510 or Sl2 or $15 a week. That Is why Mrs. Charles Henry Israels and otther officers and mem- bon of the Committee on Amusements and Vacation Resources of Working Gir!3 keep an agent busy Invest igatir.g the places that advertise for summer boarders, and telling your.g working women, free, the sum of wbat she learns. Amusement Committee Solves Them for Working Girls, VACATION PROBLEMS "This, as there is no charge cf any so? connected with our work, struck me 33 rather hard. But most of the places visited are very nice, and I've looked 33 only houses that give board for $5 a w««* or less. Some charge only $3 50. Some who come to us are stenographers, earsinf pretty good money, and say they are win- ing to pay $7 SO a week, but while I 1««P the names of the more- expensive fs** when they come my way and am glad ta give them out. it is the intention of tS* committee to cater to the girls with «\u25a0»\u25a0* ear.ing capacity." All types cf girls come to Miss Bate*. Some are quiet and ladylike, some are th» reverse. To tit each girl to a coal** place where she belongs 13 the probleov "I made a mistake once," Mis Balch esc- fessed. 'I sent a party of regular \u25a0*• toughs to a most proper establishment. Long and loud were the complaints tSst woman made, and she warred to cha-"S* the committee for the cleaner she said **• had to hire to 'redd up" the place stt^ those 'awful girls' went. I did thai earSr In June, when I was still a novice. I *\u25a0•» better now how to s!ze up girls and boat* ing places." "I had a good time selecting these places/ 1 Miss Balch said to a Tribune reporter, "that is, in most instances I did. Occasion- ally I struck a snag. I remember cne ww> an, mistress of a farmhouse, who ongtt to have been in the French Eevofctfoi; she's wasted in the peaceful Catskills. I sampled her food and slept in one of Iff beds, and instantly decided not to Mi any girls there. I didn't propose to ami defenceless girls to sleep in teds that an inhabited. The woman saw, I su?pos#. that I wasn't pleased, and a3 I wa3 le£> ing she gave me such a tongue la-- Qg i- ! I never heard. V^, ". "You're a grafter. she wound «3- •Kltin* 'round the country on morey jm squeeze out o' them poor girls. Needst tell me you don't take fees of? 'en, men; I know better.* :. That last isn't seen in many of the o> scriptions. fortunately, for nr.oat girls go away for a good time and a good rot don't want to be burdened with even a sM of housework. an" my father— he would come, too." So far about two hundred girls bb* come to the little room in 39th street « written for the circular the committee Moh out with its "wh!te list" of boarding paw* kvery place is described fully, for in=:ana Mrs. H.. Nyack, N. V Lars- \u25a0\u25a0\u25a0 house, tbree mlnutea' walk from the B*> son Kiver; veranda: lawn; croq'iet; paa& Round frip. a. Girls must care for ta* own rooms." Women should by nature make much better agrents for renting furnished houses than men do. as they can point out the desirable features with persuasive and dul- cet insistency, and suggest remedies so simple and practical for the undesirable things that any man and most women would be keen to begin on the suggested "doing over." Every woman is really at heart a born home-maker. Like a rd, she hap the nest-buildins; instinct, and the house ruled and run by a woman, married or single, has a charm and subtle refine- ment that other houses have not, unless the man is an artist or has artistic ten- dencies. A man mostly longs to be com- fortable, and if comfortable will cheerfully enjoy quite hideous surroundings, just so that no one touches his pipe or his papers or "tidies up" the other belongings thai crowd bis den. Sometimes he will feel vaguely dissatisfied on coming bock to .i dreary bachelor's apartment after dining well in some grem of a home, but he al- •ways consoles himself by the thought that any alterations for style would cause him to lose some of his comfort. MISS AL CE SARGENT AND HER SCNDERBOAT WAIF, if'botGgrai'ha t>y Boston I'hcto News Company) They Report a G-ain of Thirteen Hun- dred in the Last Year. The July number of "The Remonstrance," organ of the Massachusetts Association Opposed to Woman Suffrage, reports that the membership of the organization is now M.5W4, th:s being a net gain in the last twelve months of 1,20? Requests for litera- ture have OOBM, it !e stated, from str.ie and coIU-k'; libraries, cluhe and individuals in twcaty-alz ststee and in Canada, and in response to those rcqueots mere than six- teen thousand pamphlets have been dlstrih- u/e<3, sixteen sets of bound volume* of pamphlets have been pent to public li- braries, usually in response to requests, and, in addition, thirty thousand copies of "The Remonstrance" have been circulated. Ajnong the echievementa of the year !s noted the organization of a fully equipped State Association Opposed to the Extension of Suffrage to Women In Pennsylvania, miking five in all. M!.-s Mary 8. Ames is president of the ttaaotta associutlon, having Bucceed- .-i liis. G- Howland Shaw, erne of the "Bachelor, widower or husband?" in- quired a jdr* who was asked by a friend to meet a n:an whom she didn't know at a dinner. She web a trifle direct la her methods, that girl, but the younsj women •«ho list men accord::;:? to their eligibility for marriage are numerous in society, suf- ficiently numerous to make it necessary lor the eligible mc to pick bis footing warily. There are girls v. ho. quite with- out realizing it, always mention a man's t-tate as to m ' ' it when BpecSdnc of htm. "1 was taken in to dinner by Mr. May. a enanateg bachelor." this typo of girl immll airily. "Igolfed with a Mr. Grey Interesting? Oh. yes, but he's married." "I've had an invitation to mo- tor with Mr. Jenks. such a delightful young widower, and rich, they say." Mr. 1£&? may be a poet, Mr. Grey an inventor. Sir. Jea!:o a wrecker of other men's fort- unes en 'Change, but she doesn't know or care. A gtri of this type got a well de- served refctJte from an older voir.an the. other day. The woman asked her to Sin- iiar. pjiQi meotioried that Mr. So-and-£o \u25a0was coming. . b'- dear," drawled the girl, "why did yon ask him? You know 1 can't marry a Catholic/" "Don't be an idiot," retorted the older •vrjjmr.3. 'I'm not asking you to marry Ijiro, cor does he want to marry you. I'm only ackirjfj you both to eat a very good dinner." 7/orafcn o* this class have a itoeedfol propensity for seeing sentiment in the simplest attentions from a man. "Welch why the girl who is out for a HoaC tim« and can golf, dance or flirt wiCfc-' a thought of anything further is to refreshing to.a mar.. Society may be a'hiffhly <?T£'i-r.:z>-?. gar;." for^cetcWng^us* MASSACHUSETTS "ANTIS" An old farmer living In a section that has recently been bought up by wealthy people complained quite bitterly to one of the#« new neighbors on the changes that had come to his part of the world, and the bur- den of his plaint was the motors. He "didn't allow they killed his chickens or dogs, and he wasn't afeard for himself, even if he wae growing deaf." neither did he complain of the dust or the gasolene smells. His grte-v«nce against the motors was their unfriendliness. "Why in the old times," he said, "every one that owned th«m places would say. "Hop In and have a lift.' if I was going their way, and now th»m durned chauffeurs just go 'honk-honk' and pa«B me by, them riding alone, too. as if I wasn't good enough to ride With them. So 1 jest made up my mind that them ma- chines is selfish all the way through from chauffeur to owner, an' every one el«e around here that knows anything thinks so too." The old farmer Is right, by more than half, for in the country since time had wlr.gr? the man on the road, aa well as the woman or child, has ever had the courtesy of "a lift as far as I am going." and the comfort of conveyance was thus shared between rich. and poor. The motor owner wouM no more think of stopping and taking In a stranger under similar conditions than he would think of delib- erately running over him. An automobile promotes friendly intercouse between points far diftam. but never is it a convenience for those it passes on the highway, so with the departure of "Old Dobbin" from the highway the friendliness of the road goc3 and the country lanes take on the conventionality of the city avenues. bands, but men like girls Who don't take that view of it." * r.r.ii" pioneers, who resigned in May. ' MACARONI AU QRATIN.' An easy way to prepare macaroni is to boil half a package in salted water v until tender, drain it in a colander and Btir it into a saucepan or chafing dish,- In which two tablespoonfuls of butter and half a pound of grated cheese have been melted, the latter being added after the ; first has begun to bubble. Toss the macaroni. with a fork until heated through, season with; a dash of salt and pepper and serve. The result is delicious.. especially when the mac- aroni comes piping hot: from the : chaflner dleh. ."--"" -• - -. . ordinary one-man boat in a stiff breeze and to reef and furl the sails, but she says there is no exercise like it for both mind and body. However, she does not restrict her ath- letic activities to yachting. Besides being a sailor, she is an expert golfer, tennis player and horsewoman, and has consid- erable of a reputation as a pedestrian. Alter yachting, her favorite outdoor exer- cises aro walking and horseback riding. The real secret of health, strength and beauty, one maintains, lies in simple fare .and outdoor recreatio' . and she practises what aha preaches, alr*)"t to the entire .•>.- clusion of social functV^ns and the Indoor life, from which many women of -wealth fi£d : it impossible- to escape . - -_ dependent of assistance. Nothing 'helps in preserving the appear- ance of a wardrobe like proper, trunk ac- cessories—cases for shirtwaists, etc. The lining, too, is of importance. An adjustable one made of linen is best. After the dl- mensions "of the trunk are taken heavy white. linen should be cut into pieces to fit its different sections. They must be hemmed around and laundered stiffly. Suf- ficient, staroh should be put Into them to give them almost the consistency of card- board. Very little dma or expense Is re- quired ' to* produce J a ' set of eii£h .' lining's, SOAK THE WICKS .\N VINEGAR Women who i \u25a0\u25a0\u25a0-, oil lamps to ' country cottages may be glad H k '\'.'-it they will give a brighter \u25a0<\u25a0 \u25a0 - j'^grt are soaked .in vinegar and - ; '-* a \u25a0\u25a0 they are us« 4. \ Every moderately well educated V* 1 * knows that life originated la its wO but not so many are aware that W *J^* still aquatic animals. Every c<?l! •** those of the outside skia is dependent upc- a surrounding liquid to keep Itailva. «>* ' it became dry it would perish. A V* 1 ** who realizes this fact will always t*k#«** to drink plenty of water. and w«J alsa , % *** Plenty of fruit and vegetables, since tS«* contain large quantities of wat*r. and^l| in a purer form than is usually aff" The pickaninny shows his good sense SK he feasts upon the Juicy watermelon. *-^ Instead of rtdicullnsr him we might t«»- go and do likewise. .... ' y.* It may submit a few times to such \u25a0» usage without showing resentment, but*" until seventy times seven. Eventually will lose Its beauty and fineness, act* *• careless one will rind herself compelled » seek diligently and with tears the way «* bringing them back. Prevention is **\u25a0*<• better than cure, and It is much easier »•* simpler to keep the skin from burnJaf *• using cold cream and powder before goes out than to restore It to its nors»- state by applying ointments after th* da~- age has been done. It may be icis^ 1 - 5 * that cream and powder would not be.*3 effectual protection for face and areas \u25a0 sea bathing, but when one considers. to_ hard It Is to remove any greasy subststsca from an article that is betas cleaned, it » easy to see that a little splashing «* a cool sea water Is not likely to disturb * coating of cold cream very seriously, j sleeved vioollen garments ought, not to be needed by any one bat seral-invallds/ The robe de nulUin thin lawn- or linen will be satisfactory for most persons. - There is quito as much danger of suffering from too great heat as from cold in the steamer, and it is easier to put on extra covers than to Keep cool when tho porthole i has to be closed. Stock advice given tho ocean traveller since all the work! began to spend its vaca- tions broad is to wear the oldest of under- wear, that It may be thrown away before leaving the. ship. Soiled linen is not agree- able to carry, but laundry work is quickly >»no In Europe, and there really seems to bo no good reason for turning one's self Utfo a tatterdemalion for an ocean voyage. Whatever you deckle to leave behind when you go travelling." says the woman who always contrives to look, when on the road as if she had taken her maid and her favorite hairdresser along with her. "don't leave your beauty bag. A small leather handbag will hold everything you need in the way of creams, powders, soft bits of linen ana, your, own particular brand of cT^ hU n *%* >OU Ere far from > our of supplies the contents of that bag will be priceless. Then, having carefully s ?oc^ the beauty bag and taken It along, dot^t *Z ii nn t te ™° n BiShtS *«"Z you forge bee U ihUf T™ ° U leaVe th train m**» * bee-lino for your hotel bedroom. kirWo 8 °t I 0"""I 0 """, traveUln * dress and don a dm™?*; ZV** dd ° Wn your halr and PUS v the blmds Rub some coM P period of repose turn to the beauty bag •Ka«n. and. having made whatever use o<K 2L T* 98ary> don frMh clothing and slipped from + a3 train "eary traveller who slipped from tho train an hour before." As soon " the warm weather come, one notices among the women one meets faces ana arms so badly burned that they are analog but a cheerful spectacle. It eeems hardly possible that the \u25a0„\u25a0„,.» M they Knew the means of printing this un- sill. ? condition, would not avail them- „\u25a0>2 m/ Any one may set a 88 * v^ »mA i occasionally by E oln off on ?wiStSv nitloll without beln«,ufflctontly Protected from the action of sun and wind, but though tho results of such an acci- nS a a r ! (1 UnPleaSant ' lheX &re not » c ™*- So? mSy ea3lly be borna-wlth forti- tude or even treated as a joke. To make a practice or reckless,, »x ,,,, ng lh^ : to the element. l 8l 8 QU tte A different matter! Health and 'Beauty 8 -T— r-^-i r-Y-] «-b™,w-4 "w-< -^ * / n?7 / / /-ii^r\yr \u25a0 VI

New York Tribune (New York, NY) 1910-07-17 [p 8]...to pose before the many cameras that they rr.-•\u25a0•: expect to be pointed at them so as to bringout the best points ofa gown

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Page 1: New York Tribune (New York, NY) 1910-07-17 [p 8]...to pose before the many cameras that they rr.-•\u25a0•: expect to be pointed at them so as to bringout the best points ofa gown

AFTER THE BATH.(Photograph by Underwood & Unclerr/oort.)

Modes Are Launched During the Big Racing

Week, c.r\d the Result Is a Gamble.

Fashion in the MaKing

NEW-YOKK DAILY TRIBUXE, SUNDAY, JULY 11, 1910,

With Only One Real Fire a Week One Fami]y

Fares Sumptuously Every Day.

is cooked In the flreless cooker, and *\u25a0-1 is left over by "Wednesday is turned j^loaf of pressed beef. On Thursday c^,*or cutlets are used, and on Friday '£Sometimes on Thursday or Friday ta~v^veal potpie 13 served. The lamb [a -\tJ*

i cooked In th« "tireless" and takes ont/before it is |time to

-add the duap|2

After these are dropped into the pot ft4put on the oil stove and 13 very ca.-j^Ccovered, to that no steam escape* ;about twelve or fourteen minutes th»«w[lings are done. Care must be take*aw

I they do not bum.Two pies, each of a different •

\u25a0-»-.... j-»

often a pudding, are baked on Sats^;.One of the pies is used for Saturday*!*.ner. and the pudding or an lceis*£j^. on Sunday. The other pie is reserve ...Monday. The desserts for Tj^»-4

-j Wednesday, Thursday and Friday «•»s**Ilies. Bavarian creams and frozen des**^that require no cooking. Mousses"."^served often, as they freeze theaml^'

Two loaves of cake are made on A| ifjLi to last through the week, one betnf #ikind that will Improve with keeplr,? a '.J,days. This housewife also prcpwtj„Saturday a fancy German bread or laJljjmeal muffins to serve for Sunday's bra*.fast with coffe«», and on the top of thtggjstove she boils a sugar cured ham or *smoked tongue, to be used gcrtgg'gm^ing week at luncheons and or. the Siaa^supper table. Enough boiled salad drtssj^Is also cooked to last for some time, in>,

kept covered In the refrigerator when act ijuse.

IfSaturday chance to be a record br^ai*.In point of heat, the bakins 13 truistM^to Monday and a pot roast, prepared «•)

the tireless cooker. Is served for Tiiii^dinner.

With plenty of salads prepared fromib»mer vegetables, peas, bears, eggs, ebeasjiberries, and ail sort? of summer fruityaexcellent table is set throughout the «a*mer. Of course; it requires system andperience as well a some hard work on mda*', but there are two young lin|tilaiwho think it fun to assist at the crisis:point, and for six days there Is very Mito be done and very little heat also £33the kitchen. Much oil and ccal, too, msaved, which is an item worth considerf:;.

When one lives In the vicinity of a M*class Vienna or French bakery, the battaiof pie and cake may be omitted in feedweather, and »f one has an electric or a pi

stove the bother of making and dumjirg 3

fire is saved, but a commuter's is=£j

spending their summer in a subui* «nearby country village are not csaaSiblessed with this luxury.

Hot Weather Cooking

During -dog days." if ever, considera-tion snpuld.be shown to the. one who does

the kitchen' work, be she maid. or mistress,

for cooking In a hot kitchen day after day

is certainly an unenviable occupation. Th.-

burden." however, can bo lightened if the

housewife uses some foresight nnd wisdom

in her management 'and \ if the masculine

head of the household is willing,to forego

steaks and roasts or other foods that re-

quire extreme heat to cook them. To pre-

pare such dishes in a hot" kitchen •«*-\u25a0

the months of July and August H to Invite

heat prostration. Most men ."do not know

how hot a fire is required for roasting and

broiling, and they ask for steaks and roastsrot

'because they are thoughtless and un-

kind but because they are ignorant. Often,

too, thty are unfamiliar with other form*

of meat cookery, and they think that meat

Is necessary to keep up their strength-

Now, if the family will leave the bills of

fare completely in the hands of the house-

wife and be content to have her serve only

those dishes which are easiest to prepare,

and if she will use all the wisdom at her

command, the family, including the mas-

culine head, who dotes on roasts, willprob-

ably be delighted. with the tempting, nour-

ishing and refreshing :table that is laid.

With jellied meat loaves, pressed chickenand other cold meats, served with spiced

jelly, irresistible dishes concocted in thechafing dish, fancy cheeses, summer vege-

tables served in unfamiliar ways, mayon-

naise salads, chilled fruit macedonies, cus-

tards, creams and frozen mousses as hotweather fare, the family will be convincedthat the feminine head knows what they

like far better than they do themselves.The following arrangement -exists in a

certain commuter's^ household, where thehousewife is "maid of all work," but Is

blessed with a family that insists on easy

meals: She uses her coal stove only once

a week, on Saturday, when she does allher baking. .On other days she uses the

tireless cooker for the preparation of vege-

tables ,and all foods that do not require

quick cooking. or a tremendous heat. She

uses an oil stove for making coffee andtea, for foods that require short, quickcooking and for fried food3, but the last

are not often attempted Inhot weather.When baking day—Saturday— comes

around, she bakes enough cake, bread and

pie to last for most of the week and roasts

a bigpiece of meat. For Sunday the roast

is served cold, with an acid spiced jelly.

On Monday the meat is chopped fine and

moulded in aspic Jelly, which is preparedfrom a stock made by boiling the bones

of the roast

On Tuesday meat enouarh for two days

For some reason chan«>« In millinery

stem to come more quick!*.- than obansr*B In

dresses. There is a decided change in ha'In the direction of wide, picturesque brim*setting low on the head and with \u25a0hortercrowns than have been worn. Borne of th*

summer straws are almost flat, with flop-

ping brims and draped trimming. Thenthere is a cunning little draped toque amon*

the new designs which sets over an undercap of white lace or embroidery, and in fact

the lace under bonnet is also a feature of

the new big hats. E. M.

The followingmodel is a rood example ofits use: The undergown is of pale greenmoire silk covered with net in the sameshade. At the lmees the overdress is gath-

ered into a band of white batiste, embroid-ered in bigdaisies. The belt or green satin

has a large motif of white embroidery front

and back, and the guimpe and uridersleeve*are made up of a pattern In much smallerdaisies combined with Valenciennes.

'This

gown is most simple in its form, but theundergown of watered silk marks it as anew model. It has also the fashionabletouch of black in the way of velvet bre-telles over the rhoulders, finished by motif*of white embroidery- The hat to:be wornwith this gown is a wide brimmed

•affairof white straw trimmed with black ai-grettes.

But although triere are few all whitegowns, English embroidery has never playeda more important part in the fashion?Certainly it has never before appeared fo

effective, because it has never before been

made up with such a variety of stuffs. Thy

whiteness of a beautiful design shows vbest when arranged over or with bright

si'.k brocades. One often sees a flowerelsilk In fcirly Jeep tones of blue, violet orthe fashionable petunia co\ered with a thin

net tunic inset with figures of English em-broidery.

A summer model from a Rue dela Paix"Shop is made up of Valenciennes lacetrimmed with flounces of English embroid-ery. There are three of these on the skirt,put on with a heading of VaL entre-deuxand separated from each other by severalinches. From the round neck to the top

ruffle on the skirt is a double row.of em-broidered buttons, and the skirt and bodiceare joined by a belt of English embroidery.

So far this is one of the few all-.-white1gowns that the model makers have shown.:Most of the white batiste or embroideredfrocks have an underfrock of color or [aretrimmed with a flowered silk or plain eati'n

iof velvet. Rather a pretty idea shows "a!frock of thin muslin over a. white silk foun-|dation, on which there is a trimming of

icolored ribbons. -\u25a0 \u25a0 . -

!idea has been bo successful. and- generally!popular that the dressmakers are trying:to hold on to it for another "season. To-iday the band is never tight enough, to im-

ipede walking, and it is .beginning ;to;becurved or arranged in points and, in someerses, slightly flounced. It is possible that

: we shall see it replaced in the autumn by

a shaped flounce, but for the summer, atl«sast, the ornamental skirt band cut on. aistraight thread will be in good style. Itis reported that skirts are to be excessivelyIlarge in the autumn.. Such would be amost astonishing development of the pres-ent modes, and one hardly to be expected;It is true, however, that with the thinmaterials of the

'summer we .shall un-

doubtedly see fuller hems.* The ISea al-ready is to put a great deal of trimming'

on the bottom of skirts, but at the sametime to allow them to hang in straightl\nC3.

\u25a0 ••\u25a0 \u25a0\u25a0 ".r "\u25a0'-.

Itis under these circumstances and be-fore the careful, critical eye of the headof the establishment that they are taught

to \u25a0walk and to move so as to best showoff the particular model they are wearing:

tney are provided with different accesso-ries, such as parasol and reticule, and ad-vised how to carry them, and they aretaught how to lean against a tree or restore knee and hand on an upturned chair\u25a0when chattlnj -with an acquaintance in thefcrffet. But. above all. they are taught howto pose before the many cameras that they

rr.-•\u25a0•: expect to be pointed at them so as tobringout the best points of a gown.

"Remember that from all over the world.America, England. Germany, Austria andeven Dow from Turkey, are assembled buy-

ers who from long experience qul&ly pick

out the professional models and followthem about. They look the gown over anddiscuss its points to see ifit worth buying.

If they think it is a good investment itis quite easy to discover its source.

In describing P. rls mode? it is easy toneglect the claims of the young unmarriedwomen because it is a sort of ft traditionin France that young girls do not dressmuch; that it is not good taste for them to

adopt any style of dress that attracts at-

tention. But like a lot of French traditions

this has fallen a little into disuse. Intruth, there are a lot of fashions that arebest seen on very young- women and whichhave a simplicity that married women donot aways care to adopt. The early sum-mer models are curiously simple, and whilethey may be made striking to the point ofloutiness by the accessories, chosen as they

stand they are best suited to youth.

The skirt banded about the bottom is re-garded already as slightlydemode, but the

Paris, July 7.;Now that the big1racing week ending with

the Grand Prix is over, one can moralize abit over certain of its aspects. A French-m.-ir. who is neither a sportsman nor adressmaker, but simply a keen onlooker at

\u2666his spectacle of Paris, sums itup as "allaround, "the biggest gambling event in the•srcrlfi, with odds in favor of the weatherprophet." It is possibly true that as muchmoney is invested In clothes as in horse-flesh, and that the success of a new modellaunched by a big firm of dressmakers isas \u25a0uncertain, as is that of a horso enteredfor the big race. It all depends on the•weather; '

seine horses run well on wetgrave! that ruins The speed of a stronger

\u25a0teed, and so certain modes launched undera blue, sunny sky fall promptly to pieces

•ur.d<ir cold and gloom. \u25a0

Any one not au courant with the dress-making world of Paris cannot imagine thepreparation, involving

'time and money,

that Is made for these events. Many

women well known in the half-world andto the theatre are invited by prominentcouturiers to wear their models on theseoccasions, and aside from this most of thehouses send out ma^iUdm from their own•hops. Some of these women are experi-

enced in the proper showing off of gowns,

but their face:- soon get known, and often*pretty g~.r." from the workshop or new-comers Btnonc the manikins are preferred.

For these girls end, in fact, for the beetdisplay of the new costumes an out-of-doorJftress rehearsal Is necessary, and often•piore than one. A little summer place injtlieenvirons of Paris is an almost neces-sary adjunct to a smart dressmaking es-tablishment, and here the girls parade

ißbout in the gowns that they are to showlater on at the races.

~fome ays of the XOorld

Every one is familiar with that indefiniteand subtle change that comes to a person's

voice when speaking of a very rich rela-tion or friend, and another well knownchange is that of manner when one of

these multimiillonaires joins a group In

which the poor relation Is seated. Even

the children of a family reserve their best

manners for those they know to be rolling

in money, and angelic behavior and buttery

ton^s are the rule when the wealthy auntIs around. Children are the reflection of

what they see. and often will give as areason for doing what appears unnaturalsomething they have overheard or seen.Therefore, much information ;<bout thetrue Ftate of affair? in a family may begleaned by observing the children.

A long storm or steamer coat of sememore or less heavy woollen material is oneof the few special requisites for the voyage.A good, well fitting sweater, which mostwomen those days are sure to have, willalso do good service, sometimes under thecoat and aeiam without it, for the deckpromenade. A steamer rug and a soft littledown pillowto tuck in at the back of theneck complete the list of necessary trav-eller's supplies. The travelling rug can behired on the steamer for from $1 to SI 50, ifdesired, or a second one if the voyage turnaout to be cold and windy.Ifa woman wear* simply normal shoes

the winter through In the oity at home, sheis not likely to be led astray by the manywriters who tell her to wear tennis shoesor rubber soles on her regular toots on thesteamer. Too much emphasis cannot belaid upon the importance of shoes and ho-siery, but it is only in the way of insistingthat they be the neatest and best fittingthat ran be found.

The woman who economizes by wearingher oid shoes would be sorry if she realizedhow the worn spots on the soles announcethemselves vauntlnply to the world as sh«»turns them confidingly outward from hersteamer chair. Tennis shoes are ugly an Auncomfortable for people who are aecuß-tomed to heel3, and unnecessary. Rubbersoles are uncomfortably warm, and they,too, are needless. When tho decks aro sovet that extra protection for the feet isrequired, one is likely to remain inside, orrubbers raaj always be slipped on if de-sired.

Nothing is prettier for the head than thehat which matches the street suit, alwaysproviding that it is a small one. The"steamer haf is little in evidence thesedays ii;the better shops. This is easily un-derst .id when one sees here and there odtho steamer the absurdity of old facesunder jaunty little caps, or plain ones withtheir ugliness accentuated by the coquet-tishness of their head coverings. With thehair firmly pinned in place a hat of anykind is little needed on the covered decks.Many persons wear veils, though it mustbe admitted that they often leave some-thing to be desired in the way of becoming-ness. A hit of black lace over the grayl-air_of an elderly woman is charming, andso are the hoodlike effects that have comein with the automobile and which are suit-able for women of all ages.

Wash dresses are desirable for warm flays—linen coats and skirts or one-piece frocks—and it is pleasant to have a simple, one-piece silk or llsht woo! gown for dinner,though these are not necessary. If thedinner gown is cut a little low in the neckit ijives the effect of evening dress.

As to underwear, there is no rV-ason whyit should be any different from what onowrars at home. High-necked and long-

The woman who walks on to a steamerwearing her regular street suit Is welldressed for her voyage if the suit is trimand smart.

Advice to Ocean TravellersNot Yet Superfluous.

Itwould seem that the last word of ad-vice to the ocean traveller had been given,

but any ono who has ever taken the pains

to observe the flotsam and jetsam of trav-elling array that float past a steamerchair must have been convinced that thereis more to b<i said. A great deal of unwiseinstruction, too, needs to be unlearned.

Yet the whole question is very simple—amere matter of good taste. An oceansteamer is a great floating hotel, and onedresses for it as for any other hotel. Oneknows, of course, that one*Villmeet manystranpers, whose first impressions will begained from one's clothes, but the wisewoman is particular about her clothes'everywhere.

MORE TO BE SAID

Summer wardrobes, being light in weight,

can be packed in the trunk with astonish-ing ease. Too close packing, however,

should be avoided, for it willcrush out thenew, fresh appearance which is the chiefcharm of summer gowns. It Is better to go

on a visit with a few clothes, all crisp anduttractive looking, than to have a greater

number showing creases and the wear andtear of travel. Everything, moreover, that

is put into the trunk to take away shouldbe in perfect order. Each button and tape

ehould be in its place; veils should befresh; gloves should be spotlessly clean.Women who make many visits have alsolearned to have even their smartest gowns

arranged so that they can be put on andfastened up with comparative ease. Athouse parties it is frequently necessary tochange the clothes very quickly, and, asevery guest cannot have the service of themaid at the same time, it is weli to be in-

"When Iwent home from boarding

school for the holidays for the first time,'

said a woman who is married now andhas daughters of her own, "I made my

Initial attempt at trunk packing. Ijust

turned ray bureau drawers upside down,

one by one. and dumped the contents in

my trunk. Iteach my daughters better,

for when one goes upon a visit the hostess,

if she chances to be in one's room when

the trunk is opened, is likely to size oneup by the way the contents look, to say

nothing of the maid's opinion. If they are

a jumbled, tumbled mass, she is pretty

sure to think—if she doesn't know one well—"Dear me! I'm afraid my guest's room

will be in disorder during this visit.'"

There's a science in packing. Some

women make a profession of it, packing

other people's trunks for pay. But iti3ascience any one may learn with a littleeffort, and in these days, when every one

ie making week-end visits and rounds ofvisits, and it is so often impossible to takea maid along, it is a necessary science to

know.The size of a trunk for week-end visits is

of the first importance. If it is too large

Itwill be cumbersome for the servants tohandle, and there may not be space for it

In the room where the owner is lodged,

yet it must be large enough to hold the

gowns and other things regarded &.« neces-sary Qt a fashionable week-end party. A

trunk about 2 feet * Inches long by 18

tneiiea high It a convenient size. Thißtrunk will fit easily on the rack of a

motor car, end this ie an important point,

as so many people live some distance from

railway stations and transport their guests

br motor.It R&ves trouble to have a trunk marked

!n some individual way. so that the owner

can pick it out quickly from a truckful of

baggage on the station platform. A large

white ptor painted on the end of the trunkwill do. or some interlocked circles, orbands of contrasting colors.

Into the week-end trunk must go, for the

conventional visit, an extra hat, threeevening gowns, one high necked afternoon

gown for special occasions, two morning

gowns, plenty of lingerie, shirtwaists,

shoes and slippers, and gloves, veils andother trifles. The heavy wrap, which it isprudent to take, can always be carried overthe arm.

icrinkled i?i Trunks.

Wrinkles to Keep Clothes Un-

GOING A-VISITING

Miss Alice Sargent, of Brookline, Mass.,expert ekipper, general athlete and heiress,

Is a true sport. She announces that shewants and expects no favors on accountof her sex when she sails hc-r sonder boat,

the Wolf, next month In the eliminationtrials for the right to race against theSpanish sonder boats, which -are now ontheir way to America to compete for theTaft Cup. The elimination .races are setfor August 8, 9 and 10 off Marblehead, thebeats to be raced In three divisions, andthe final international race will take place

on. August 17 at the same place. The Span-

ish boats, which will be here this week,

represent tho Spanish Federation of Nauti-cal Clubs, and the Eastern Yacht Club issponsor for the American boats.

Misa Sargent will find her work cut outfor her when she enters the eliminationraces, for she will have to compete with

some experienced and well known skippen-.

but ihe knows no feSr. She has been overthe Marblehcad course until she knows itby heart, and she is confident that the Wolfwill "do the best that is in her." In the

3909 sonder trials, when the American boatswere picked to race against the Germansordcr boats from the Kiel Yacht Club, herboat, the Sumatra, although not selectedfor the fins.l trial, did excellent work, andshe expects the Wolf to do better.

Miss Sargent, who, with her parents,Professor and Mrs. Charles S. Sargent, Isspending the summer at Marblehead TCeck,

to 'oe near the yacht clubs, has won sev-eral prizes in yachting regattas, and is nofair weather yachtswoman, but is as dar-ing as the men, driving her boat out inrougti water and delighting- in a. spanking

breeze. She scorns the peaceful monotonyof inopi>n harbor as lens as her boat canstick outsice in open water. Siie finds itfar from being child's play to steer the

Miss Sargent Asks No Favor inSonderhont Races.

A TBUE SPORT.

To hold semi-precious jowels, beads, beltbuckles and various other ornaments,

cases in imitation of the suede ones arcmade of heavy linen and tucked securely

to the inside of one of the compartments of

the trunk. After a trunk Is supplied witha set of linen linings it often follows as anatural sequence that various pockets,

made of the same stuff, are tacked to the

inside of the trays and the hat box. Themore certain kinds of things are kept to-gether the easier it is to find them in atrunk.

and their use ha3now become much moregeneral than that of the heavily scentedsachets that have done service during thewinter. Shirtwaist cases are made of somewash material of heavy texture, and are

fashioned in much the same shape as alarge nightgown case. Around the edges

they are bound with colored linen braid,

and the Initials of the owner may be em-broidered on the outside with wash cotton.

When shirtwaists are folded carefully andslipped into such cases they retain theirfreshness much better than if packed pro-

miscuously with other things.

The problem of what to do with jewelswhen travelling ha? been somewhat simpli-

fied by the Introduction of suede jewel

bags, made to be suspended from a beltworn under the sk.rt of the gown. They

are fashioned in various shapes and sizes

and divided into several convenient littlecompartments. Good ones cost not less

than $3.

An active woman is Miss Mary Balch, thesecretary, who does this work. From 11:30o'clock in the morning until 2:30, and from4:50 till 8:30 o'clock on five of the week-days, and from 11:30 until 5:30 on Satur-days, she is at the committee's temporaryoffice

—loaned for the summer by the Junior

League—

at No. 42 West 39th street, atthe service of all inquiring girls. In be-tween times she packs Ijer suitcase andhurries down to Long: Island or over to NewJersey to sleep at Mrs. Smith's or Mrs.Robinsons farm boarding house and findout if the beds are as good as the sceneryIs said to be. Another thing she has tomake sure of—that the hoarding: places andtheir surroundings hare nothing about•them to 'which it would be unsafe morallyto expose a young girl.Ifall girls were as cautious as the first

batch of inquirers who sought Miss Balch.there would be no fear of their getting- intodangerous places. This «-as a group offour Italian girls, and they brought menalong, one big swarthy man for every girl,and a fifth man. for good measure, per-haps.

"Y'see." one of the girls explained afterthey had talked with Miss Balch and foundthat her Intentions were mild, even be-nevolent, "we b'en readin' about things thathappens to girls in strange offices. They'refierce, the things that happens, so Fran-cesca an' Tessa got their brothers f comean Mar aritta an' Ibrought our fellows

Most people hay« known what it is to go

away on a longed for vacation and findthat the place selected !s a disappointment

that the beds aren't clean, that the foodIsn't eatable, that *ia lake Is four milesaway Instead of next door, as the adver-tisement said. This experience is exasper-ating under any circumstances; it is atragedy -when the vacation Is the victim'sone free week or fortnight in the wholeyear and the money for the trip wassqueezed out of a wage of 510 or Sl2 or$15 a week. That Is why Mrs. CharlesHenry Israels and otther officers and mem-bon of the Committee on Amusements andVacation Resources of Working Gir!3 keepan agent busy Invest igatir.g the places thatadvertise for summer boarders, and tellingyour.g working women, free, the sum ofwbat she learns.

Amusement Committee Solves

Them for Working Girls,

VACATIONPROBLEMS

"This, as there is no charge cf any so?connected with our work, struck me 33

rather hard. But most of the places T«

visited are very nice, and I've looked 33only houses that give board for $5 a w««*or less. Some charge only $3 50. Somewho come to us are stenographers, earsinfpretty good money, and say they are win-ing to pay $7 SO a week, but while I1««Pthe names of the more- expensive fs**when they come my way and am glad tagive them out. it is the intention of tS*committee to cater to the girls with «\u25a0»\u25a0*ear.ing capacity."

All types cf girls come to Miss Bate*.Some are quiet and ladylike, some are th»reverse. To tit each girl to a coal**place where she belongs 13 the probleov"Imade a mistake once," Mis Balch esc-

fessed. 'I sent a party of regular \u25a0*•toughs to a most proper establishment.Long and loud were the complaints tSstwoman made, and she warred to cha-"S*the committee for the cleaner she said **•had to hire to 'redd up" the place stt^those 'awful girls' went. Idid thai earSrIn June, when Iwas still a novice. I*\u25a0•»better now how to s!ze up girls and boat*ing places."

"Ihad a good time selecting these places/ 1

Miss Balch said to a Tribune reporter,

"that is, in most instances Idid. Occasion-allyIstruck a snag. Iremember cne ww>an, mistress of a farmhouse, who ongtt

to have been in the French Eevofctfoi;

she's wasted in the peaceful Catskills. Isampled her food and slept in one ofIffbeds, and instantly decided not to Miany girls there. Ididn't propose to amidefenceless girls to sleep in teds that aninhabited. The woman saw, Isu?pos#.

that Iwasn't pleased, and a3 Iwa3 le£>ing she gave me such a tongue la-- Qg i-!

Inever heard. V^,"."You're a grafter. she wound «3-

•Kltin* 'round the country on morey jmsqueeze out o' them poor girls. Needsttell me you don't take fees of? 'en, men;Iknow better.* :.

That last isn't seen in many of the o>scriptions. fortunately, for nr.oat girls

go away for a good time and a good rotdon't want to be burdened with even a sMof housework.

an" my father— he would come, too."

So far about two hundred girls bb*

come to the little room in 39th street «written for the circular the committee Mohout with its "wh!te list"of boarding paw*

kvery place is described fully, for in=:anaMrs. H.. Nyack, N. V Lars- \u25a0\u25a0\u25a0

house, tbree mlnutea' walk from the B*>son Kiver; veranda: lawn; croq'iet; paa&

Round frip. a. Girls must care for ta*own rooms."

Women should by nature make much

better agrents for renting furnished housesthan men do. as they can point out the

desirable features with persuasive and dul-

cet insistency, and suggest remedies so

simple and practical for the undesirablethings that any man and most womenwould be keen to begin on the suggested"doing over." Every woman is really at

heart a born home-maker. Like a rd, shehap the nest-buildins; instinct, and the

house ruled and run by a woman, marriedor single, has a charm and subtle refine-ment that other houses have not, unless

the man is an artist or has artistic ten-

dencies. A man mostly longs to be com-fortable, and if comfortable willcheerfully

enjoy quite hideous surroundings, just sothat no one touches his pipe or his papers

or "tidies up" the other belongings thaicrowd bis den. Sometimes he will feelvaguely dissatisfied on coming bock to .i

dreary bachelor's apartment after dining

well in some grem of a home, but he al-•ways consoles himself by the thought thatany alterations for style would cause himto lose some of his comfort.

MISS AL CE SARGENT AND HER SCNDERBOAT WAIF,if'botGgrai'ha t>y Boston I'hcto News Company)

They Report a G-ain of Thirteen Hun-dred in the Last Year.

The July number of "The Remonstrance,"organ of the Massachusetts AssociationOpposed to Woman Suffrage, reports thatthe membership of the organization is nowM.5W4, th:s being a net gain in the lasttwelve months of 1,20? Requests for litera-ture have OOBM, it !e stated, from str.ie andcoIU-k'; libraries, cluhe and individuals intwcaty-alz ststee and in Canada, and inresponse to those rcqueots mere than six-teen thousand pamphlets have been dlstrih-u/e<3, sixteen sets of bound volume* ofpamphlets have been pent to public li-braries, usually in response to requests,and, in addition, thirty thousand copies of"The Remonstrance" have been circulated.

Ajnong the echievementa of the year !snoted the organization of a fully equippedState Association Opposed to the Extensionof Suffrage to Women In Pennsylvania,mikingfive in all.

M!.-s Mary 8. Ames is president of thettaaotta associutlon, having Bucceed-

.-i liis. G- Howland Shaw, erne of the

"Bachelor, widower or husband?" in-quired a jdr* who was asked by a friend to

meet a n:an whom she didn't know at adinner. She web a trifle direct la hermethods, that girl, but the younsj women•«ho list men accord::;:? to their eligibility

for marriage are numerous in society, suf-ficiently numerous to make it necessary

lor the eligible mc to pick bis footingwarily. There are girls v.ho. quite with-

out realizing it, always mention a man's

t-tate as to m' 'itwhen BpecSdnc of

htm. "1 was taken in to dinner by Mr.

May. a enanateg bachelor." this typo ofgirl immll airily. "Igolfed with a Mr.Grey Interesting? Oh. yes, but he'smarried." "I've had an invitation to mo-tor with Mr. Jenks. such a delightful

young widower, and rich, they say." Mr.

1£&? may be a poet, Mr. Grey an inventor.Sir. Jea!:o a wrecker of other men's fort-

unes en 'Change, but she doesn't know orcare. A gtriof this type got a well de-served refctJte from an older voir.an the.other day. The woman asked her to Sin-iiar. pjiQi meotioried that Mr. So-and-£o\u25a0was coming. .

b'- dear," drawled the girl, "why didyon ask him? You know 1 can't marry a

Catholic/""Don't be an idiot," retorted the older

•vrjjmr.3. 'I'm not asking you to marryIjiro, cor does he want to marry you. I'monly ackirjfj you both to eat a very good

dinner." 7/orafcn o* this class have aitoeedfol propensity for seeing sentimentin the simplest attentions from a man."Welch i« why the girl who is out for aHoaC tim« and can golf, dance or flirt

wiCfc-' a thought of anything further is

to refreshing to.a mar.. Society may bea'hiffhly <?T£'i-r.:z>-?. gar;." for^cetcWng^us*

MASSACHUSETTS "ANTIS"

An old farmer livingIn a section that hasrecently been bought up by wealthy people

complained quite bitterly to one of the#«new neighbors on the changes that had

come to his part of the world, and the bur-den of his plaint was the motors. He

"didn't allow they killed his chickens ordogs, and he wasn't afeard for himself,

even if he wae growing deaf." neither didhe complain of the dust or the gasolene

smells. His grte-v«nce against the motorswas their unfriendliness. "Why in the oldtimes," he said, "every one that owned th«mplaces would say. "Hop In and have a lift.'if I was going their way, and now th»mdurned chauffeurs just go 'honk-honk' andpa«B me by, them riding alone, too. as if Iwasn't good enough to ride With them. So1 jest made up my mind that them ma-chines is selfish all the way through fromchauffeur to owner, an' every one el«earound here that knows anything thinksso too." The old farmer Is right, by morethan half, for in the country since timehad wlr.gr? the man on the road, aa well asthe woman or child, has ever had thecourtesy of "a lift as far as Iam going."

and the comfort of conveyance was thusshared between rich.and poor. The motorowner wouM no more think of stoppingand taking In a stranger under similarconditions than he would think of delib-erately running over him. An automobilepromotes friendly intercouse between pointsfar diftam. but never is it a conveniencefor those it passes on the highway, so withthe departure of "Old Dobbin" from thehighway the friendliness of the road goc3

and the country lanes take on theconventionality of the city avenues.

bands, but men like girls Who don't take

that view of it."

*r.r.ii" pioneers, who resigned in May.'

MACARONI AU QRATIN.'An easy way to prepare macaroni is to

boil half a package in salted water v untiltender, drain it in a colander and Btir itinto a saucepan or chafing dish,- In whichtwo tablespoonfuls of butter and half apound of grated cheese have been melted,

the latter being added after the ;first hasbegun to bubble. Toss the macaroni. witha fork until heated through, season with;adash of salt and pepper and serve. Theresult is delicious.. especially when the mac-aroni comes piping hot: from the:chaflnerdleh. ."--"" -• -—

-. .

ordinary one-man boat in a stiff breezeand to reef and furl the sails, but she saysthere is no exercise like it for both mindand body.

However, she does not restrict her ath-letic activities to yachting. Besides beinga sailor, she is an expert golfer, tennisplayer and horsewoman, • and has consid-erable of a reputation as a pedestrian.Alter yachting, her favorite outdoor exer-cises aro walking and horseback riding.The real secret of health, strength andbeauty, one maintains, lies in simple fare

.and outdoor recreatio' . and she practiseswhat aha preaches, alr*)"tto the entire .•>.-clusion of social functV^ns and the Indoorlife, from which many women of -wealthfi£d:it impossible- to escape . -

-_

dependent of assistance.Nothing 'helps in preserving the appear-

ance of a wardrobe like proper, trunk ac-cessories—cases for shirtwaists, etc. Thelining,too, is of importance. An adjustable

one made of linen is best. After the dl-mensions "of the trunk are taken heavywhite.linen should be cut into pieces to fitits different sections. They must be

hemmed around and laundered stiffly. Suf-ficient, staroh should be put Into them to

give them almost the consistency of card-board. Very little dma or expense Is re-quired

'to*produce Ja 'set of eii£h.' lining's,

SOAK THE WICKS .\N VINEGARWomen who i\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0-, oil lamps to •

'

country cottages may be glad H k '\'.'-itthey will give a brighter \u25a0<\u25a0 \u25a0

- j'^grtare soaked .in vinegar and

-;'-*a

\u25a0\u25a0

•they are us«4.

— —\

Every moderately well educated V*1*

knows that life originated la its wO

but not so many are aware that W*J^*still aquatic animals. Every c<?l! •**those of the outside skia is dependent upc-a surrounding liquid to keep Itailva.«>* '

it became dry it would perish. A V*1**

who realizes this fact willalways t*k#«**to drink plenty of water. and w«J alsa,

%

***Plenty of fruit and vegetables, since tS«*contain large quantities of wat*r.and^l|in a purer form than is usually aff"The pickaninny shows his good sense SKhe feasts upon the Juicy watermelon. *-^Instead of rtdicullnsr him we might t«»-go and do likewise.

.... 'y.*

It may submit a few times to such \u25a0»

usage without showing resentment, but*"until seventy times seven. Eventually

•will lose Its beauty and fineness, act* *•careless one will rind herself compelled »seek diligently and with tears the way «*bringing them back. Prevention is **\u25a0*<•better than cure, and Itis much easier »•*simpler to keep the skin from burnJaf *•using cold cream and powder beforegoes out than to restore It to its nors»-state by applying ointments after th* da~-age has been done. Itmay be icis^

1-5*that cream and powder would not be.*3effectual protection for face and areas \u25a0sea bathing, but when one considers. to_

hard It Is to remove any greasy subststscafrom an article that is betas cleaned, it»easy to see that a little splashing «*acool sea water Is not likely to disturb

*coating of cold cream very seriously, j

sleeved vioollen garments ought, not to beneeded by any one bat seral-invallds/ Therobe de nulUin thin lawn- or linen will besatisfactory for most persons. - There isquito as much danger of suffering from toogreat heat as from cold in the steamer, andit is easier to put on extra covers than toKeep cool when tho porthole ihas to beclosed.

Stock advice given tho ocean travellersince all the work! began to spend its vaca-tions broad is to wear the oldest of under-wear, that It may be thrown away beforeleaving the. ship. Soiled linen is not agree-

able to carry, but laundry work is quickly>»no In Europe, and there really seems tobo no good reason for •turning one's self

Utfo a tatterdemalion for an ocean voyage.

Whatever you deckle to leave behindwhen you go travelling." says the womanwho always contrives to look, when on theroad as if she had taken her maid and herfavorite hairdresser along with her. "don'tleave your beauty bag. A small leatherhandbag will hold everything you need inthe way of creams, powders, soft bits oflinen ana, your, own particular brand of

cT^ hUn *%*>OU Ere far from > ourof supplies the contents of that bag willbepriceless. Then, having carefully s?oc^the beauty bag and taken It along, dot^t

*Ziinntte™°n BiShtS*«"Z you forge

beeUihUf T™ °

U leaVe th train m**»*bee-lino for your hotel bedroom.

kirWo8 °tI0"""I0""",traveUln* dress and don a

dm™?*; ZV** dd°Wn your halr and PUSv

the blmds Rub some coMP

period of repose turn to the beauty bag•Ka«n. and. having made whatever use o<K

2L T*98ary> don frMh clothing and

slipped from +a3train

"eary traveller whoslipped from tho train an hour before."As soon " the warm weather come, onenotices among the women one meets facesana arms so badly burned that they areanalog but a cheerful spectacle. Iteeemshardly possible that the \u25a0„\u25a0„,.» M theyKnew the means of printing this un-

sill. ? condition, would not avail them-„\u25a0>2 m/ Any one may set a 88*v^

»mA ioccasionally by Eoln off on

?wiStSv nitloll without beln«,ufflctontlyProtected from the action of sun and wind,but though tho results of such an acci-

nS aar!(1

UnPleaSant ' lheX &re not »c™*-

So? mSy ea3lly be borna-wlth forti-tude or even treated as a joke. To makea practice or reckless,, »x,,,,ng lh :̂to the element. l8l8 QUtte A different matter!

Health and 'Beauty

8

-T—r-^-i r-Y-] «-b™,w-4 "w-< -^ * / n?7 / //-ii^r\yr \u25a0—

VI