NEW YORK - WordPress.com · 2017. 5. 16. · More chefs are heading outdoors to cater to the in crowd Find your food 1. Smorgasburg 2. The Bowery Market 3. Union Square Greenmarket

NEW YORK

Clockwise from here: White Gold Butchers; treats at Smorgasburg; a EatWith.com creation; meaty goodness at White Gold Butchers

72 MAY 2017

BI_072-081_New York Food.PDV.indd 72BI_072-081_New York Food.PDV.indd 72 20/04/2017 14:5220/04/2017 14:52

73MAY 2017

t’s a familiar scene in Manhattan. A table covered in wine glasses, candles casting a glow on faces and plates being wiped clean with warm bread. In the open kitchen, the chef can be seen diligently preparing the next course. But while this could be

any one of the charming eateries dotted around the West Village, it’s actually a private home — a dinner party on demand from a website called EatWith.com.

In exchange for restaurant formality, hungry diners now have more avenues for eating well than ever before, including food halls, outdoor markets, hybrid shops, and websites that connect chefs and guests for private dinner parties. To taste the best of the Big Apple, it’s time to look beyond the traditional.

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As the costs of running a restaurant keep rising in New York, the city’s best chefs are fi nding new ways to bring innovative food to the table

Words Jessica Colley Clarke Photgraphy Chris Sorensen

in the

Bites out Big Apple


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A train station with 750,000 people passing through daily may seem like an unlikely place to find a refined meal, but Grand Central Terminal delivers just that. Danish Chef Claus Meyer (co-founder of Noma in Copenhagen) is behind the Great Northern Food Hall, a destination for casual New Nordic food. “Today’s customer doesn’t want to compromise on quality,” says Meyer. “They want food that’s healthy, sustainable, delicious, and fast. As a chef, I want to satisfy all of these needs.”

In the morning, that means rye croissants still warm from the oven and savoury morning buns stuffed with smoked salmon, cream cheese and horseradish. In the afternoon and evening, there are grab-and-go options – including one divine roasted pork sandwich with red cabbage, raw apple, and crunchy crackling – but the food hall also has sit-down counters with waiter service and polished wine glasses.

Take a seat at the Grain Bar and a chef will prepare a hearty grain bowl with your choice of topping from roasted mushrooms to aged

Clockwise from right: UrbanSpace Vanderbilt; pizza at the same spot; Nordic cuisine at the Great Northern Food Hall, Chef Claus Meyer; the Great Northern Food Hall is the place for pastries

havgus cheese to lobster. The experience is so elegant, it’s easy to forget the buzz of commuters rushing to catch trains nearby.

For a high-end taste of all of New York’s food obsessions under one roof – pizza, bagels and more – head to UrbanSpace Vanderbilt, near Grand Central. There are picnic-style tables for eating lobster rolls or al pastor tacos. Pizza from Roberta’s in Brooklyn and pastrami sandwiches from Mile End Deli are also noteworthy. At Hudson Eats in Brookfield Place there are goodies like brisket and burnt end baked beans from Mighty Quinn’s Barbecue, short-rib sliders and caramelised Brussels sprouts from Umami Burger, or sushi from Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar.

Food halls go gourmetOnce haunts for fast-food chains, food halls are today hotspots for posh nosh on the go

Find your food

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1. Great Northern Food Hall2. UrbanSpace Vanderbilt

3. Hudson Eats

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As costs of operating restaurants in New York skyrocket, some chefs are skipping bricks-and-mortar eateries completely. Savvy restaurateurs have found a way to bring their food to hungry audiences without all the risk of a restaurant lease: outdoor markets. One of the most popular is Smorgasburg, a Brooklyn hotspot with around 100 vendors held in the East River State Park on Saturdays and Prospect Park on Sundays.

Smorgasburg has been an incubator for innovative ideas in food and drink (hello, ramen burger) since 2011. It’s a place where chefs can experiment and get instant feedback. Show up on any given Saturday or Sunday, and you can expect to find barbecue, sandwiches, tacos, ice cream and more. Looking for souvenirs? Hot sauces, jams, spices and chocolates – all locally made – are plentiful.

A number of quality food stalls also sit in The Bowery Market, which opened in July 2016 on the corner of the Bowery and Great Jones Street. On first appearance it appears to be an empty triangle of concrete, but what you’ll actually find is a tiny buzzing, outdoor market with spots including Alidoro, a sibling of the Italian sandwich shop on Sullivan Street in SoHo. Try the Fellini with sopressata, fresh mozzarella, hot peppers and arugula. And be hungry: one sandwich can feed two people. At the Union Square Greenmarket, meanwhile, you’ll rub elbows with New Yorkers picking up flowers and fresh produce, but you can also snack on baked goods like apple cider doughnuts.

Rise of the outdoor market More chefs are heading outdoors to cater to the in crowd

Find your food1. Smorgasburg

2. The Bowery Market3. Union Square Greenmarket

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It’s always heartwarming to see the candlelit glow of a dinner party through an apartment window. But what if you don’t know anyone in the city for such merry-making? Cue the rise of websites like EatWith.com and Feastly.com, which connect hungry diners with both amateur and professional local chefs for meals in private homes with other like-minded people.

Search for ‘New York City’ on the former, and dinner parties in a variety of neighbourhoods like Astoria, Williamsburg and the Upper East Side fill the screen. You can choose by theme (Sri Lankan Feast, A Taste of Trinidad, wood-fired pizza) or by neighbourhood. If you choose the ‘Balkan Feast in Harlem’, you can explore this historic area before ringing the bell at a classic brownstone on a leafy street for a five-course dinner.

Inside, our host and passionate cook Dina, originally from Bosnia, welcomes us to her home. The guests are typically a mix of New Yorkers and visitors, and we all share a long table for an

Dinner parties on demandHow do you fancy dining with complete strangers in the home of someone you’ve never met?

Clockwise from left: Seafood at Smorgasburg; New Yorkers head for Union Square Greenmarket for fresh produce; seaweed rolls at Smorgasburg; The Bowery Market opened last year; there are about 100 vendors at Smorgasburg

Left: Chef Dina of EatWith.com welcomes diners to her home in HarlemAbove: Each course comes with a lesson in Bosnian cuisine

evening feast. Each course comes with a lesson in Bosnian food traditions, such as secrets behind a slow-cooked soup with heirloom beans. While it’s possible to leave a restaurant without talking to anyone but your waiter, these dinner parties are designed for interaction. A website can be a portal not only to a great meal, but to experiencing the melting pot of New York City firsthand. EatWith.com

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1. EatWith.com in Harlem

Find your food

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79MAY 2017

You might not expect to see wine bottles lining a shelf above a meat case in a traditional butcher’s shop, but White Gold Butchers is much more than a place to pick up some sausages for the grill. This hybrid shop on the Upper West Side from Chef April Bloomfield is a whole-animal butcher where you can also eat in – a one-two combination where New Yorkers can pick up ingredients for dinner or sit down to a civilised lunch.

It makes sense, really. If you have a butcher shop, why not serve bacon and egg sandwiches for breakfast? Or the perfect ham sandwich for lunch? “I think the butcher shop adds a little bit of theatre to the experience and I love that,” says Bloomfield. “If you’re in for lunch, you might see whole pigs being delivered right through the dining room.”

Leather banquettes and exposed brick walls set a surprisingly cosy scene for a shop

Clockwise from left: Hybrid shop White Gold Butchers; red hot food at White Gold; Chef April Bloomfield; the meat counter at White Gold Butchers adds a bit of theatre to meals

where chefs might be cleaving an animal behind the counter. By evening, the space takes on a sophisticated tone, serving a small but hearty menu with shop’s highlights at its core: radishes with marrow butter, lamb with chimichurri.

Speciality grocery store Zabar’s in Upper West Side, which has roots dating back to 1934, also has a café. Come for the knishes and the neighbourhood favourite, matzoh ball soup. Barney Greengrass is half Jewish deli counter, half casual restaurant serving smoked fish salads, bagels and borscht since 1908. Both shops are a living piece of New York City culinary history.

FLY TO NEW YORK JFK DAILY

Th e future is hybrid Concept food stores are quickly becoming the ultimate one-stop-shop for gourmands

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1. White Gold Butchers2. Zabar’s

3. Barney Greengrass

Find your food

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Hudson River East River


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FR Croquer la Grosse Pomme à pleines dents

En quête de cuisine innovante et abordable à New York ? Les restaurants traditionnels ne sont plus l’unique option — ni la meilleure.

1. Le buff et de la gare fait dans le gourmet : Grand Central TerminalUne gare où passent 750 000 personnes chaque jour n’est pas une évidence quand on recherche un repas raffi né. Pourtant Grand Central Terminal met dans le mille. Le cuisinier danois Claus Meyer (cofondateur de Noma à Copenhague) est à l’origine de Great Northern Food Hall, destination de restauration rapide néo-nordique, soit le matin, des croissants au seigle tout chauds et des petits pains salés au saumon fumé, fromage frais et radis noir et l’après-midi et le soir, des options à emporter, notamment un sandwich au rôti de porc, chou rouge, pomme crue et croustillants de couenne grillée divin. On peut aussi s’asseoir aux comptoirs, avec service à la place et vrais verres de vin.2. Le marché comme incubateur d’idées : SmorgasburgLes coûts de fonctionnement des restaurants new-yorkais continuant à grimper de manière aff olante, certains chefs abandonnent l’idée d’une adresse en dur. Les plus malins ont trouvé une

solution pour nourrir les masses aff amées sans avoir à signer un bail : les marchés en plein air. Un des plus populaires est Smorgasburg, marché de Brooklyn qui rassemble une centaine de vendeurs dans East River State Park le samedi et Prospect Park le dimanche. Des innovations culinaires ne cessent d’y émerger depuis 2011 (coucou, le burger ramen!) et les cuisiniers peuvent expérimenter et recueillir les avis immédiatement.3. L’hybride, c’est l’avenir : White Gold ButchersSi vous avez une boutique de boucherie, pourquoi ne pas servir des sandwiches œuf-bacon le matin ou le sandwich au jambon parfait à midi ? White Gold Butchers est bien plus qu’une adresse où acheter des saucisses pour le barbecue. Cett e boutique hybride de la cuisinière April Bloomfi eld sur l’Upper West Side traite l’animal de A à Z et sert aussi à manger. Les New-yorkais y font coup double : les courses pour le dîner et un déjeuner tout ce qu’il y a de civilisé. La carte, resserrée mais alléchante, off re le meilleur de l’étal de boucher, radis au beurre de moelle, mousse de foie de volaille, bouillon d’os à moelle, agneau-chimichurri. Ne ratez pas les pommes de terre à la graisse de bœuf.4. Un chef à domicile sur demande : EatWith.comSi on n’a pas toujours des amis à inviter dans chaque ville visitée, Internet permet aujourd’hui de mett re en relation des convives aff amés et des

cuisiniers amateurs ou pro pour dîner dans des lieux privés. Option populaire, EatWith.com, qui couvre des villes des quatre coins du globe. Tapez « New York City » et vous découvrez des listes de dîners dans des quartiers comme Astoria, Williamsburg et l’Upper East Side. On peut choisir un thème (festin sri-lankais, saveurs de Trinidad, pizza au feu de bois) ou un quartier. Alors qu’il est possible de repartir d’un restaurant sans avoir interagi avec quiconque en dehors du serveur, ces dîners sont conçus pour l’échange humain. Le web peut être le portail vers un délicieux repas, le melting pot new-yorkais en prime.

Plats gourmets à emporter à Grand Central Terminal

Gourmetten tijdens het reizen in de Grand Central Terminal

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81MAY 2017

NEW YORK

Butchers ga je niet alleen langs om worsten te kopen voor de barbecue. Deze hybride zaak in de Upper West Side van kok April Bloomfi eld is een slagerij waar je ook kunt blijven eten. New Yorkers kopen hier hun ingrediënten voor het avondeten en gaan zitt en voor een volledige lunch. Op het kleine, maar stevige menu staat het beste van de slagerij: radijzen met mergboter, kippenlevermousse, bott enbouillon, lam met chimichurri. Ook de ovenschotel met knapperige aardappelschijfj es en rundsvet is een aanrader.4. Diner op aanvraag: EatWith.comHet is misschien niet mogelijk om vrienden te hebben in elke stad, maar wie trek heeft, kan via specifi eke websites in contact komen met amateurkoks en professionele koks waar je thuis kunt gaan eten. Een van de populairste websites is EatWith.com, met adressen in steden over de hele wereld. Zoek op “New York City” en je krijgt een lange lijst te zien met dinermogelijkheden in allerlei verschillende wijken, zoals Astoria, Williamsburg en Upper East Side. Kies op thema (Sri Lankan Feast, A Taste of Trinidad, Wood-Fired Pizza) of op wijk. En hoewel je de communicatie natuurlijk kunt beperken tot je ober, zijn deze diners vooral bedoeld om met andere mensen te converseren. Een dergelijke website is dus niet alleen een portaal voor een heerlijke maaltijd, ze vormt de toegangspoort naar de authentieke smeltkroes van New York.

NL Lekker eten in de Big Apple Op zoek naar vernieuwende en betaalbare

plaatsen om uit te eten in New York? Traditionele restaurants zijn niet langer de enige of beste optie.

1. Gourmet in het station: Grand Central TerminalEen treinstation waar elke dag 750.000 mensen langskomen is misschien een ongewone plaats voor de verfi jnde keuken, maar in Grand Central Terminal kun je heerlijk eten. De Deense kok Claus Meyer (medeoprichter van Noma in Kopenhagen) is de man achter de Great Northern Food Hall, waar je snel ongecompliceerde hedendaagse Scandinavische

gerechten kunt eten. ‘s Morgens zijn dat roggebroodcroissants, warm uit de oven, en hartige koeken gevuld met gerookte zalm, roomkaas en mierikswortel. In de namiddag en ‘s avonds kun je iets lekkers kopen voor onderweg, zoals het overheerlijke broodje met varkensgebraad, rodekool, rauwe appel en krokante braadkorstjes, maar je kunt ook aan een tafeltje met chique wijnglazen gaan zitt en en je laten bedienen door de ober.2. De markt als ideeënbron: SmorgasburgAangezien een restaurant runnen in New York vaak een onbetaalbare onderneming is, laten sommige koks het idee van een eethuis gewoon varen. Slimme koks hebben een manier gevonden om de hongerigen te spijzen zonder een restaurantruimte te moeten huren: markten in open lucht. Een van de populairste markten is Smorgasburg in Brooklyn, waar een honderdtal marktkramers hun waren verkopen, op zaterdag in East River State Park en op zondag in Prospect Park. Al sinds 2011 ontstaan hier originele ideeën voor voeding en drank (ooit al gehoord van ramenburgers?). Hier kunnen koks experimenteren en krijgen ze onmiddellijk feedback.3. De toekomst is hybride: White Gold ButchersStel, je bent een slager. Dan kun je toch ook broodjes met spek en eieren serveren als ontbijt? Of het perfecte broodje met hesp als lunch? Bij White Gold


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NEW YORK - WordPress.com · 2017. 5. 16. · More chefs are heading outdoors to cater to the in crowd Find your food 1. Smorgasburg 2. The Bowery Market 3. Union Square Greenmarket