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Wazir was the knowledge partner for Texcon 2012. The conference was themed "New Paradigms for Textiles Industry". The knowledge paper details the way Indian textile industry is trending and New Paradigms which can help achieve growth.
Citation preview
New Paradigms for
Textiles Industry
Knowledge Partner
Table of Contents
Foreword ................................................................................................................................................. 1
1. Executive Summary ......................................................................................................................... 2
2. Overview of Indian Textile Industry ................................................................................................ 4
a. Industry structure ....................................................................................................................... 4
b. Domestic Consumption ............................................................................................................... 5
c. External Trade ............................................................................................................................. 6
d. Key challenges ............................................................................................................................. 8
3. Change Drivers .............................................................................................................................. 10
a. Indian ........................................................................................................................................ 10
i. Urbanization .......................................................................................................................... 10
ii. Younger, working age population ......................................................................................... 10
iii. Increasing internet penetration ............................................................................................ 12
iv. Growth of Organized retail ................................................................................................... 12
b. Global ........................................................................................................................................ 14
4. Growth Imperatives ...................................................................................................................... 16
a. Government support policies ................................................................................................... 16
b. Enhancing manufacturing competitiveness .............................................................................. 18
i. Skill upgradation ................................................................................................................... 18
ii. Technology upgradation ....................................................................................................... 18
iii. Partnerships .......................................................................................................................... 18
c. Realizing domestic market potential ........................................................................................ 19
About CII ............................................................................................................................................... 21
About Wazir Advisors ............................................................................................................................ 22
List of Figures
Figure 1: Value Chain & Capacities ............................................................................................ 4
Figure 2:Historical Growth of Indian Domestic Textile & Apparel Market ................................ 5
Figure 3: Projected Growth of Indian Textile & Apparel Domestic Consumption .................... 6
Figure 4: Indian Textile & Apparel Exports ................................................................................ 6
Figure 5: Historical Share of Largest Exporters (2010) in Global Exports .................................. 7
Figure 6: Indian Textile & Apparel Imports ................................................................................ 7
Figure 7: Urban Population in India (Mn) ................................................................................ 10
Figure 8: Age-wise Segmentation (Mn) ................................................................................... 11
Figure 9: Working Women in Indian Organized Sector (%) ..................................................... 11
Figure 10: Number of Internet Users in India (million) ........................................................... 12
Figure 11: Size of Organized Retail & Organized Retail (India) ................................................ 12
Figure 12: Growth Rate Comparisons in % (India) ................................................................... 13
Figure 13: Global Trade of Textiles & Apparel (US$ Bn) .......................................................... 14
Figure 14: Shift of Textile Production over last 10 years ......................................................... 14
Figure 15: Growth of Top Textile & Apparel Exporter Countries over last 5 years
(Having Export Value > US $ 5 bn) ........................................................................................... 15
Figure 16: Size of Indian Apparel Market (Rs. 000’ Crores) ..................................................... 19
Foreword
Textile and Apparel manufacturing industry in India today is witnessing a sea change amid
several impacting factors –
manufacturers are continuously on their feet because of fluctuations in raw m
and currency; they are also facing the manpower challenge in terms of cost, skill and
availability. Not to mention that the demand which fell sharply during global slowdown is
yet to pick up fully in international markets. Even back home the
apprehensive as inflation remained record high for long in a slowing down economy.
When we started having deliberations on this Conference; there were myriad of themes to
choose from, but finally we decided to focus on options which
challenges rather than deliberating on the challenges only. Hence, the Theme of “New
Paradigms for Textile industry
The coverage of this Conference has applicability on the
chain. In order to shed light on them briefly and explain the role each of them have in
leading the industry on a path of sustainable growth, we have prepared this report. It
provides an overall direction where the indu
biggest challenges it faces.
Given the fact that external and economic changes are much beyond the control of any
industry sector per se, we have to look internally, utilizing the resources in hand and adapt
to changes in most efficient manner. This is the intent of the Conference and this knowledge
paper.
The idea is not only to discuss and debate on the topics which are most relevant in today’s
context; but also identify what needs to be done, whose action i
the catalyst for the required changes.
CII has been actively engaged with the Textiles sector addressing their key issues relating to
policy matter and developing a roadmap to leverage the growth potential of this sector.
TEXCON 2012 – Conference on New Paradigms for Textiles Industry is another step forward
in this direction.
We look forward to have your inputs during, and even after, the Conference.
D L Sharma
Conference Chairman, TEXCON 2012 &
Director
Vardhman Textiles Ltd.
1
Textile and Apparel manufacturing industry in India today is witnessing a sea change amid
– domestic as well as global. On one hand where the
manufacturers are continuously on their feet because of fluctuations in raw m
and currency; they are also facing the manpower challenge in terms of cost, skill and
availability. Not to mention that the demand which fell sharply during global slowdown is
yet to pick up fully in international markets. Even back home the consumer has remained
apprehensive as inflation remained record high for long in a slowing down economy.
When we started having deliberations on this Conference; there were myriad of themes to
choose from, but finally we decided to focus on options which are a solution to the
challenges rather than deliberating on the challenges only. Hence, the Theme of “New
Paradigms for Textile industry - Policy, competitiveness and domestic market” was chosen.
The coverage of this Conference has applicability on the entire clothing manufacturing value
chain. In order to shed light on them briefly and explain the role each of them have in
leading the industry on a path of sustainable growth, we have prepared this report. It
provides an overall direction where the industry needs to head in order to confront the
Given the fact that external and economic changes are much beyond the control of any
industry sector per se, we have to look internally, utilizing the resources in hand and adapt
changes in most efficient manner. This is the intent of the Conference and this knowledge
The idea is not only to discuss and debate on the topics which are most relevant in today’s
context; but also identify what needs to be done, whose action is required and who will be
the catalyst for the required changes.
CII has been actively engaged with the Textiles sector addressing their key issues relating to
policy matter and developing a roadmap to leverage the growth potential of this sector.
Conference on New Paradigms for Textiles Industry is another step forward
We look forward to have your inputs during, and even after, the Conference.
Conference Chairman, TEXCON 2012 &
Prashant Agarwal
Joint Managing Director
Wazir Advisors
(Knowledge Partner)
Textile and Apparel manufacturing industry in India today is witnessing a sea change amid
domestic as well as global. On one hand where the
manufacturers are continuously on their feet because of fluctuations in raw material prices
and currency; they are also facing the manpower challenge in terms of cost, skill and
availability. Not to mention that the demand which fell sharply during global slowdown is
consumer has remained
apprehensive as inflation remained record high for long in a slowing down economy.
When we started having deliberations on this Conference; there were myriad of themes to
are a solution to the
challenges rather than deliberating on the challenges only. Hence, the Theme of “New
Policy, competitiveness and domestic market” was chosen.
entire clothing manufacturing value
chain. In order to shed light on them briefly and explain the role each of them have in
leading the industry on a path of sustainable growth, we have prepared this report. It
stry needs to head in order to confront the
Given the fact that external and economic changes are much beyond the control of any
industry sector per se, we have to look internally, utilizing the resources in hand and adapt
changes in most efficient manner. This is the intent of the Conference and this knowledge
The idea is not only to discuss and debate on the topics which are most relevant in today’s
s required and who will be
CII has been actively engaged with the Textiles sector addressing their key issues relating to
policy matter and developing a roadmap to leverage the growth potential of this sector.
Conference on New Paradigms for Textiles Industry is another step forward
We look forward to have your inputs during, and even after, the Conference.
Prashant Agarwal
Joint Managing Director
Wazir Advisors
(Knowledge Partner)
2
1. Executive Summary
Indian Textile and Apparel industry is the second largest manufacturer in the world with an
estimated export value of ~ US$ 34 billion and domestic consumption of ~ US$ 57 billion.
The sector contributes to about 6% of the US$ 1.7 trillion Indian economy. It also provides
employment to ~35 million persons directly & ~55 million persons indirectly.
India is among the very few countries which have a presence across the entire supply chain,
from natural and synthetic fibers right up to finished goods manufacturing. It has presence
in organized mill sector as well as decentralized sectors like handloom, powerloom, silk, etc.
The total Indian consumption of textiles and apparel is estimated at ~US$ 57 billion (apparel
retail contributes ~ US$ 40 billion, technical textiles contributes ~ US$ 13 billion and home
textiles contributes ~ US$ 4 billion).
It is expected to reach ~US $ 100 billion by 2016 growing at a compounded annual rate of
12%. Along with this, the exports have grown from US$ 19 billion to US$ 34 billion in past 6
years at a CAGR of 12%.
However, the industry has not performed to its full potential. It faces several challenges in
aspects of production, marketing, and support infrastructure. The technology used in
manufacturing of textile and apparel in India considerably lags behind that of developed
nations and this is mainly due to lack of value addition, low productivity, low pace of
modernization, economies of scale and high fragmentation. The industry also suffers due to
general infrastructure related issues which lead to higher transaction costs, unreliability in
transit times, etc. along with focus on limited markets, weak brand positioning of India and
overdependence on cotton.
Currently we are witnessing a high growth in domestic consumption which is being fueled
by several factors including rising disposable income of the consumers, growth in organized
retail, increasing brand awareness, rapid urbanization and increase in working age
population.
The current global trend has been increase in raw material costs as well as manufacturing
costs, mainly manpower. In order to remain competitive in this challenging scenario it is
important for Indian industry to focus on new paradigms for growth including Government
support, driving manufacturing competitiveness and tapping the domestic market
opportunity.
3
With the objective of accelerating growth in investments and exports; Government of India
has launched several schemes, a few of them are:
• Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS)
• Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks
• Development of Mega Cluster
• Integrated Skill Development Scheme (ISDS)
• Technology Mission on Technical Textiles (TMTT)
• A manufacturer can focus on a large number of business parameters in order to
improve the manufacturing competitiveness. However, the most critical
parameters having significant impacts are:
• Skill Upgradation
• Technology Upgradation
• Partnerships
There is a huge potential in the apparel market and there are many factors contributing to
the boom in this sector. To name a few, increased consumerism with a capacity to spend on
luxury items and increased spending power in the hands of Indians.
Along with this, the retail sector in India is growing at a phenomenal pace. According to the
Global Retail Development Index 2012, India ranks fifth among the top 30 emerging markets
for retail. International brands have begun to mull over the various possibilities of entering
in India. The recent announcement by the Indian government with Foreign Direct
Investment (FDI) in retail, especially allowing 100% FDI in single brands and also thinking of
opening up the sector for multi-brand FDI has created positive sentiments in the retail
sector.
4
2. Overview of Indian Textile Industry
Indian textile industry is the second largest manufacturer in the world today, second only to
China. India is among the very few countries which have a presence of complete supply
chain, from natural and synthetic fibers right up to finished goods manufacturing. The
industry holds vital importance in Indian economy too. With an estimated domestic
consumption of ~ US$ 57 billion and an export value of ~ US$ 34 billion; it contributes to
about 6% of the US$ 1.7 trillion Indian economy. The share in total exports also stands at a
significant 11% of the total Indian exports and 5% of the global trade in textiles and clothing.
The industry holds importance from the employment point of view as well. It is estimated
that ~35 million people are directly employed in this sector, whereas an additional ~55
million are employed indirectly. Apart from the employment potential, the large number of
skilled and unskilled activities in the industry makes the sector extremely important from
the perspective of inclusive growth.
a. Industry structure
The key feature of Indian textiles industry is good availability of raw material along with the
presence of complete manufacturing value chain which exists in an organized mill sector as
well as decentralized sectors like handloom, powerloom, silk, etc.
Figure 1: Value Chain & Capacities
Source: Ministry of Textiles
5
However, it can be observed that downstream capacities are not proportional to ensure
captive use of raw material and semi-processed goods. This indicates that a lot of goods are
being exported in semi-finished form from India resulting in loss of value addition and
additional employment opportunity.
Maximum capacity of Indian textile industry is with small scale sector which has lower
productivity and efficiencies but provides flexibility in executing smaller order sizes which is
unique to India.
b. Domestic Consumption
The total Indian consumption of textiles and apparel is estimated at ~US$ 57 billion, out of
which apparel retail contributes to ~ US$ 40 billion, technical textiles contributes ~ US$ 13
billion and home textiles contributes ~ US$ 4 billion. The market has grown at a yearly
growth rate of 13% over last 5 years.
Figure 2: Historical Growth of Indian Domestic Textile & Apparel Market
The domestic consumption has been fueled by several factors like growing consumer
prosperity and awareness, increasing availability of product variations, catching up with
international trends, growth of organized retail, etc.
On the basis of these factors, it is estimated that the Indian domestic consumption will
become ~US $ 100 billion by 2016 growing at an overall annual rate of 12%.
25 2731
3540
23
3
4
4
89
10
11
13
3539
44
5057
2007 2008 2009 2010 2011
Technical Textiles Home Textiles Apparel
Source: Wazir Advisors
+ 13 %
6
Figure 3: Projected Growth of Indian Textile & Apparel Domestic Consumption
c. External Trade
Indian textile and clothing exports have come a long way in last decade or so, tripling the
exports value in this duration. Indian textile & apparel as an export category has
outperformed several large textile producers of past including Germany, Italy, USA, Turkey,
etc.
Figure 4: Indian Textile & Apparel Exports
The reasons for high growth of textile and apparel exports from India is country’s strong raw
material base, design and skill heritage, manufacturing capacities that are flexible for small
orders, manpower cost competitiveness and government’s incentive schemes for export
promotion.
40
814
6
13
26
57
113
2011 2016Technical Textiles Home Textiles Apparel
+ 8%
+ 15%
1922 21 22
27
34
2006-07 2007-08 2008-09 2009-10 2010-11 2011-12
Source: Wazir Advisors
+ 12 %
+ 12 %
Source: Exim Databank of Ministry of Commerce
7
Figure 5: Historical Share of Largest Exporters (2010) in Global Exports
India also imports textile and apparel goods to the tune of US$ 4 billion, which comprises
mainly of products like high end woolen / worsted fabrics, coated and performance fabrics,
other technical textile and specialty products, fine cotton yarn dyed fabrics, premium and
super premium garment categories, etc. The main reason of imports is unavailability of
these products. In recent years even some inexpensive commodity articles like raw silk,
other fibers, basic fabrics and garments have also made in-roads from suppliers like China.
Figure 6: Indian Textile & Apparel Imports
52% 55%51%
43%
23%24% 29%
38%
9%7% 7% 5%
8% 5% 5% 5%
6% 6% 4% 4%
3% 3% 3% 4%
1995 2000 2005 2010
India
USA
Germany
Italy
China & HK
Others
3 34
34
2006-07 2007-08 2008-09 2009-10 2010-11
Values in US$ Bn
Source: UN Comtrade
Source: Exim Databank of Ministry of Commerce
+ 7 %
d. Key challenges
Indian textile and apparel industry suffers several challenges in aspects of
marketing, and support infrastructure. Due to its inherent nature several challenges are
short-term but cyclical, which have a global nature and may not be avoided like raw material
price changes, currency fluctuation, etc. However, certain ch
manufacturing industry as illustrated below:
The Indian product basket consists majorly of basic pro
exports is in form of semi-processed goods. The production technology also lags behind t
of developed countries and since the industry is led by small
have fiscal resources for continuous upgradation or expansions. As a result
able to generate economies of scale nor are the higher rates of produ
Other concerns related to manufacturing include weak supply chain linkages, lack of
indigenous research and development and inadequate worker training.
may be cheap but they have a much lower productivity as compare
countries.
In terms of export markets, Indian exports are very muc
buyer diversification has made Indian exporters prone to the demand variation in these,
limited markets. As seen during recent demand
European countries, the industry clusters have suffered quite adversely. Even recognition of
India as a brand in global textile and apparel markets is non
The industry also suffers due to general infrastructure
transaction costs, unreliability in transit times, etc. The interest rates along with other input
costs like power are also not comparable to countries like China, Bangladesh, Turkey, etc.
Manufacturing
• Lack of value addition
• Low productivity
• Low pace of modernization
• Lack of Economies of scale
•High fragmentation
Marketing
• Limited markets
• Sluggish demand in traditional markets
• Higher growth of competitors
• weak brand positioning of India
8
Key challenges
Indian textile and apparel industry suffers several challenges in aspects of
marketing, and support infrastructure. Due to its inherent nature several challenges are
term but cyclical, which have a global nature and may not be avoided like raw material
price changes, currency fluctuation, etc. However, certain challenges are unique to Indian
manufacturing industry as illustrated below:
The Indian product basket consists majorly of basic product categories and a large chun
processed goods. The production technology also lags behind t
and since the industry is led by small-scale industries, which do not
have fiscal resources for continuous upgradation or expansions. As a result
able to generate economies of scale nor are the higher rates of produ
Other concerns related to manufacturing include weak supply chain linkages, lack of
indigenous research and development and inadequate worker training. Labor force in India
may be cheap but they have a much lower productivity as compared to the competing
In terms of export markets, Indian exports are very much focused on few countries.
buyer diversification has made Indian exporters prone to the demand variation in these,
limited markets. As seen during recent demand slowdown in the US
European countries, the industry clusters have suffered quite adversely. Even recognition of
India as a brand in global textile and apparel markets is non-existent.
The industry also suffers due to general infrastructure related issues which lead to higher
transaction costs, unreliability in transit times, etc. The interest rates along with other input
costs like power are also not comparable to countries like China, Bangladesh, Turkey, etc.
Marketing
Limited markets
Sluggish demand in traditional markets
Higher growth of competitors
weak brand positioning of India
Support Infrastructure
• Infrastructure issues
• High transaction costs
• High interest rates
Indian textile and apparel industry suffers several challenges in aspects of production,
marketing, and support infrastructure. Due to its inherent nature several challenges are
term but cyclical, which have a global nature and may not be avoided like raw material
allenges are unique to Indian
duct categories and a large chunk of
processed goods. The production technology also lags behind that
scale industries, which do not
have fiscal resources for continuous upgradation or expansions. As a result, they are not
able to generate economies of scale nor are the higher rates of productivity achievable.
Other concerns related to manufacturing include weak supply chain linkages, lack of
Labor force in India
d to the competing
h focused on few countries. Lack of
buyer diversification has made Indian exporters prone to the demand variation in these,
the US and then some
European countries, the industry clusters have suffered quite adversely. Even recognition of
related issues which lead to higher
transaction costs, unreliability in transit times, etc. The interest rates along with other input
costs like power are also not comparable to countries like China, Bangladesh, Turkey, etc.
Others
• Low FDI
• Overdependence on cotton
9
Although the industry is open to FDI, such investments generally require large capital
outlays and a more developed textile infrastructure than India has to offer. This is the
reason why even after having huge domestic market potential, FDI in this sector is quite
miniscule.
Another challenge for the sector is biasness towards cotton related product manufacturing.
The global fiber demand is more of the synthetics whereas Indian manufacturing is more
geared up for manufacturing and processing cotton based products. This has led to loss of
trade possibility in some of the large traded commodities.
10
3. Change Drivers
a. Indian
i. Urbanization
In pre-industrial times, India had a slow growth in urbanization vis-a-vis other countries. But
today, India is one of the fastest urbanizing societies. As per National Council for Applied
Economic Research (NCAER), by 2030, 70% of new employment in India will be created in
cities, 91 Mn urban households will be middle class, up from 22 Mn today and 68 cities will
have a population of over 1 Mn, up from ~50 today.
Figure 7: Urban Population in India (Mn)
Indian urban population will be more than the combined population of US, UK and Germany
in the coming years and some of the Indian metro regions would be bigger than certain
countries.
This increase in urbanization will possibly lead to greater awareness among the people
regarding fashion and brand. As a result of brand consciousness, India is witnessing a change
in lifestyle resulting in increased demand for western wear clothing & home furnishing and
hence increasing per capita consumption of branded apparel.
ii. Younger, working age population
About 50% of the Indian population is below the 25 years mark. In the next 2-3 decades, this
section will move towards the middle-age/working age population category which has a
higher propensity to consume. India will be adding ~ 14 Mn people per year to its labor
pool. Going forward, as this young population enters the Indian workforce there will be
increased demand for work wear including formal clothing as well. As Indian consumer
matures, there will be a greater shift in tastes & preferences in favor of more & more
branded items.
320 365470
590
29% 30% 35% 37%
0%
20%
40%
60%
80%
0
200
400
600
800
2005 2010 2020 (P) 2030 (P)
Urban Pop. Urban Pop. as % of total
2.7%
2.4%
Increased participation of women in workforce has led to their financial independence.
there is an increase in their propensity to spend on apparel, accessories, home furnishing & personal
care. There is a direct increase in spending on corpor
other forms of apparel has increased as well which includes casual wear and party wear.
Figure
There is increased demand for
Fab India, W and Biba. Women are following fast changing fashion which results in higher no. of
purchases of fashion items.
353
209
181
142
13883
2005
0-14
1019
17.6
2000
11
Figure 8: Age-wise Segmentation (Mn)
Increased participation of women in workforce has led to their financial independence.
there is an increase in their propensity to spend on apparel, accessories, home furnishing & personal
care. There is a direct increase in spending on corporate clothing for women. Also, their spending on
other forms of apparel has increased as well which includes casual wear and party wear.
Figure 9: Working Women in Indian Organized Sector (%)
There is increased demand for readymade Indian ethnic wear with the entry of large retailers like
Women are following fast changing fashion which results in higher no. of
365 363
221 238
196 210
162 194160
21396
129
2005 2010 2020 (P)
15-24 25-34 35-44 45-59 60+
120013471.6%
1.2%
17.6 18.920.3 21
2000 2005 2010 2015(P)
Increased participation of women in workforce has led to their financial independence. As a result,
there is an increase in their propensity to spend on apparel, accessories, home furnishing & personal
ate clothing for women. Also, their spending on
other forms of apparel has increased as well which includes casual wear and party wear.
: Working Women in Indian Organized Sector (%)
readymade Indian ethnic wear with the entry of large retailers like
Women are following fast changing fashion which results in higher no. of
60+
12
iii. Increasing internet penetration
Besides this one of the decisive key change drivers in Indian consumption pattern is growth
of internet penetration in India. According to Internet World Stats (IWS), Indian internet
penetration has followed the pattern below-
Figure 10: Number of Internet Users in India (million)
Number of internet users has been increasing at a CAGR of ~24% between 2005- 2010.
Internet penetration in India is expected to increase to 19% of the population by 2015, up
from the current 9%. Increase in internet penetration has increased awareness among
Indians regarding western clothing & organized retail.
iv. Growth of Organized retail
The organized retail segment in India is projected to be 9 per cent of total retail market by
2015 and 20 per cent by 2020.
Figure 11: Size of Organized Retail & Organized Retail (India)
The share of organized retail in total retail has doubled in the last 5 years, from ~3% to ~7%,
growing at a CAGR of ~32% (2005-2010).
27
80
237
2005 2010 2015 (P)
290
500
1000
8.7 35 90
2005 2010 2015 P
Total Retail Organised Retail
+24%
+24%
13
Figure 12: Growth Rate Comparisons- Organized Retail, GDP & Private Consumption in % (India)
Increasing disposable incomes, expansion of stores and supporting economic factors will
lead to higher sales in apparel.
7% 6%9%
3%5% 7%
7% 8% 8% 8%9% 10% 9%
6% 7% 8% 9% 9% 9% 9%
33% 31% 27%
16%21%
31% 29% 27% 25% 25%
2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 P 2013 P 2014 P 2015 P
Private Consumption GDP Growth Organized Retail
14
b. Global
The global trade in textiles and apparel is estimated at US$ 650 bn. in 2011. This is
approximately 4% of the total global trade of all commodities estimated at ~ US$ 15 trillion.
In previous 15 years (1995 to 2010) the textile and apparel trade has grown at a modest
CAGR of 5% per annum.
Figure 13: Global Trade of Textiles & Apparel (US$ Bn)
During 1995 to 2000, the trade growth remained muted @ 3% CAGR. However, it
accelerated to 7% during 2000 to 2005 and then fell in subsequent 5 years to 4% CAGR.
In the last 10 years, world has witnessed a gradual shift in textile production from
developed / western countries to developing / Asian countries.
Figure 14: Shift of Textile Production over last 10 years
304 360504 556 616 628 542 610 650
1995 2000 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011
(Est.)
Major Consumption Hub Major Production Hub
During last 5 years, several new suppliers like
spectacular growth in exports.
of major textile & apparel exporter countries
Figure 15: Growth of Top Textile & Apparel Exporter Countries
Over last year or so, the industry has seen an unprecedented increase in
the globe. This along with raw material price fluctuations has
industry. With these constraints, the
have already started seeing an upward trend.
In near future, it is expected that the manufacturers will have to focus increasingly on
improving the operational efficiencies, productivity, reducing wastages and go for process
automation and control in order
15
several new suppliers like Bangladesh and Viet Nam have
in exports. Below is a graphical representation of the growth
apparel exporter countries over last 5 years.
: Growth of Top Textile & Apparel Exporter Countries over last 5 years
(Having Export Value > US $ 5 bn)
the industry has seen an unprecedented increase in
This along with raw material price fluctuations has led to major ripples in the
With these constraints, the days of lowest prices are over. The unit value prices
have already started seeing an upward trend.
it is expected that the manufacturers will have to focus increasingly on
improving the operational efficiencies, productivity, reducing wastages and go for process
on and control in order to drive their competitiveness.
and Viet Nam have shown
Below is a graphical representation of the growth rates
over last 5 years
the industry has seen an unprecedented increase in labor costs across
led to major ripples in the
The unit value prices
it is expected that the manufacturers will have to focus increasingly on
improving the operational efficiencies, productivity, reducing wastages and go for process
16
4. Growth Imperatives
a. Government support policies
The textile industry, being one of the most significant sectors in the Indian economy, has
been a key focus area for the Government of India. Government policy has played a
fundamental role in shaping the growth, structure and technological evolution of the textile
sector in India over the last decade. The strong demand from domestic and export market
coupled with conducive policy environment provided by the Government has catalyzed the
growth of the textile industry.
With the objective of accelerating growth in investments and exports; Government of India
has launched several schemes. Some of the major schemes are discussed briefly ahead:
i) Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS)–
The Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) is the flagship Scheme of the Ministry of
Textiles which was launched on April 1, 1999. It was launched to enable firms to access low-
interest loans for technology upgradation.
The Scheme mainly provides for -
• Reimbursement of 5% (4% for spinning machinery) interest charged by the
financial institutions
• Coverage of exchange rate fluctuation not exceeding 5% (4% in respect of
spinning machinery) points per annum in respect of foreign currency loans
instead of 5% interest support
• 5% interest reimbursement plus 10% capital subsidy for specified finishing
machinery, garmenting machinery and technical textiles machinery.
ii) Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks (SITP)
The Scheme was introduced to neutralize the weakness of fragmentation in the various sub
segments of textile value chain and unavailability of quality infrastructure.
The primary objective of the SITP is to provide the industry with world-class infrastructure
facilities for setting up their textile units to facilitate textile units to meet international
environmental and social standards.
iii) Development of Mega Cluster
The broad objectives of the Mega cluster approach Scheme is to enhance the
competitiveness of the Powerloom clusters, Handloom clusters & Handicraft clusters, in
terms of increased market share and ensuring increased productivity by higher unit value
realization of the products. The scheme comprises of following components:
17
Comprehensive Powerloom Cluster Development Scheme:-To assist entrepreneurs to set up
world-class units with modern infrastructure, latest technology and adequate training and
human resource development along with appropriate market linkages
Comprehensive Handloom Cluster Development Scheme: - To address the challenges faced
by weavers within the cooperative sector and outside, due to poor infrastructure in some
clusters
Comprehensive Handicraft Cluster Development Scheme:-To enhance the competitiveness
in terms of access to technology, increased market share, ensure effective integration of
scattered artisans and linking them to SMEs, generate additional livelihood opportunities,
provide linkages in terms of adequate infrastructure technology, product security and other
such components.
iv) Integrated Skill Development Scheme (ISDS)
Integrated Skill Development Scheme was launched by the Ministry of Textiles to train
candidates according to the industry needs, provide professionals skills in multiple fields in
textiles, and provide knowledge to the working professionals on the developments in the
industry.
ISDS aims to train over 27 Lacs people within the next 5 years. The scheme would cover all
the sub sectors of the textile sector such as textile and apparel, handlooms, jute and
sericulture.
v) Technology Mission of Technical Textiles (TMTT)
Government has launched TMTT with two mini missions for a period of five years (from
2010-11 to 2014-15). The aim of TMTT is to address the issues like lack of basic
infrastructure in terms of testing facilities, lack of market development support, skilled
manpower, lack of R & D, absence of regulatory measures, absence of specifications and
standards for technical textiles etc. The total fund outlay for TMTT is Rs 200 Crores.
Mini Mission I of TMTT is aimed at Standardization, creating common testing facilities with
national international accreditation, indigenous development of prototypes and resource
center with IT infrastructure, incubation centre by establishing four new Centers of
Excellence (COEs) and upgradation of existing four COEs.
Mini Mission II of TMTT is to provide support under 6 components, i.e.,
a. Support for business start-up;
b. Providing fund support for organizing workshops;
c. Social compliance through standardization, regulatory measures;
d. Market development Support for marketing support to bulk and institutional
buyers;
18
e. Market development Support for export sales and
f. Contract Research and Development through IITs/TRAs/Textile Institutes.
In addition, FDI policy for manufacturing in this sector is quite hassle free as 100% FDI is
allowed under the automatic route*. Apart from these larger schemes which target a broad
range of industry, there are various schemes specifically targeted to help decentralized
sectors grow like handloom, silk and powerloom.
*FDI under automatic route implies that the foreign companies do not need a prior approval
for investment by the authorities. The investors are only required to intimate the Regional
office concerned of the Reserve Bank within 30 days of receipt of inward remittance.
b. Enhancing manufacturing competitiveness
A manufacturer can focus on a large number of business parameters in order to improve the
manufacturing competitiveness. Some of the most critical, having significant impacts are
discussed below:
i. Skill upgradation
With increasing labor costs and decreasing availability, skill upgradation is one such
paradigm which can solve the manpower challenge that industries face, to some extent. On
one hand skill upgradation can increase the influx of manpower from distant corners of the
industry; whereas on the other making them skilled in operations of their choice can check
the inter segment migration to some extent.
ii. Technology upgradation
Despite considerable amount of global exposure, technological modernization and
diversification, a large section of Indian Textile industry continues to work on conventional
manufacturing technologies. Technological advancements have improved not only the
productivities, efficiencies and quality but also have enhanced the product mix.
iii. Partnerships
Partnership will help open the gateway of opportunities to expand the Indian market. One
of the reasons is that many western manufacturers are looking for a destination to expand
their manufacturing bases in order to be more competitive. Secondly, Indian domestic
consumption in itself has become quite attractive for international players. However, in
order to succeed in a large, diverse market such as India, a partnership with local player who
has an existing network and operational understanding of various channels is what the
international players want to tap. This creates opportunities for Indian manufacturers to
upgrade their existing technical, quality and design knowhow and also start tapping into
global marketing network.
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c. Realizing domestic market potential
Indian apparel market currently valued at ~US$ 36 billion is expected to grow at a CAGR of
15% in next 5 years and is estimated to be pegged at ~US$ 74 billion by 2016. This growth is
primarily driven by increase in disposable income, brand penetration, working population,
apart from increase in per capita consumption of clothing due to favorable consumer
demographics.
Currently Men’s wear is the biggest segment of the market, however women’s wear is
growing faster than other apparel segments and is expected to gain majority share in future.
Kidswear is also growing rapidly with a CAGR of 14%.
Figure 16: Size of Indian Apparel Market (Rs. 000’ Crores)
There is a huge potential in the apparel market backed by fashion consciousness of
consumers, rapid urbanization, increasing government infrastructure spending and growing
sectors, etc.
Although many brands have entered the Indian retail space in last decade, but still many
brands have not marked their presence in India due to poor infrastructure, high real estate
costs and FDI regulations. The total Retail Space in India has increased from 1.5 Mn sq. ft. in
2001 to 53 Mn sq. ft. in 2010, growing at a CAGR of 43%. Another 65 mn sqft will be added
in next 5 years time. So, here is a huge opportunity for Indian retail to expand.
8 10 13237
912
26
22
3
5
57
9
20
23
28
36
74
2007 2009 2011 2016 (P)
Kidswear Unisex wear Womens wear Menswear
+12%
+15%
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Table 1: Inter Country Comparison of Retail Space
Country Per Capita Total Retail
Space (sq. Ft.)
Per Capita Mall
Space (sq. ft/.)
Dubai n/a 25.3
USA 46.6 23.1
Singapore 15.7 7.2
Australia,
New Zealand 24-31 5.5-6.8
UK 12 3.9
Japan 12-13 3.8
China 11.2 2.7
India 2.22 0.09
India has a huge scope of expansion as the retail space per capita in India is very less in
comparison with other countries.
Besides, due to recent liberalization of the Foreign Direct Investment (FDI), India has
become one of the fastest growing destinations for FDI inflows. 100% FDI in single brand
retail is a welcome sign for the luxury and niche retailers. Moreover, the revival of the
proposal to permit 51% FDI in multi-brand retail could bring a positive impact on Indian
retail sector. This is very well demonstrated in Scandinavian furniture retailer IKEA’s
announcement of its plans to invest Rs 10,500 crores (~US$ 2 billion) in retail in India.
Organized retail will result in more productive, efficient & compliant manufacturing units,
more employment, increased domestic supply opportunity and more consumption.
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About CII
The Confederation of Indian Industry (CII) works to create and sustain an environment
conducive to the growth of industry in India, partnering industry and government alike
through advisory and consultative processes.
CII is a non-government, not-for-profit, industry led and industry managed organisation,
playing a proactive role in India's development process. Founded over 117 years ago, it is
India's premier business association, with a direct membership of over 7000 organisations
from the private as well as public sectors, including SMEs and MNCs, and an indirect
membership of over 90,000 companies from around 400 national and regional sectoral
associations.
CII catalyses change by working closely with government on policy issues, enhancing
efficiency, competitiveness and expanding business opportunities for industry through a
range of specialised services and global linkages. It also provides a platform for sectoral
consensus building and networking. Major emphasis is laid on projecting a positive image of
business, assisting industry to identify and execute corporate citizenship programmes.
Partnerships with over 120 NGOs across the country carry forward our initiatives in
integrated and inclusive development, which include health, education, livelihood, diversity
management, skill development and water, to name a few.
The CII Theme for 2012-13, ‘Reviving Economic Growth: Reforms and Governance,’ accords
top priority to restoring the growth trajectory of the nation, while building Global
Competitiveness, Inclusivity and Sustainability. Towards this, CII advocacy will focus on
structural reforms, both at the Centre and in the States, and effective governance, while
taking efforts and initiatives in Affirmative Action, Skill Development, and International
Engagement to the next level.
With 63 offices including 10 Centres of Excellence in India, and 7 overseas offices in
Australia, China, France, Singapore, South Africa, UK, and USA, as well as institutional
partnerships with 223 counterpart organisations in 90 countries, CII serves as a reference
point for Indian industry and the international business community.
Confederation of Indian Industry
Northern Region
Block 3, Dakshin Marg, Sector 31 A, Chandigarh
T: +91-172-6510188 • F: +91-172- 2606259
E: [email protected] • W: www.cii.in
Reach us via our Membership Helpline: 00-91-11-435 46244 / 00-91-99104 46244
CII Helpline Toll free No: 1800-103-12
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About Wazir Advisors
Wazir Advisors is a management consulting firm based out of India that advises clients
globally on business strategies, mergers and acquisitions, joint ventures, funding and
investments. Wazir is focused on the Indian consumer segments like Fashion & Lifestyle,
Food & FMCG, Education, Media & Entertainment, Health & Wellness, Consumer Durables,
etc.
Wazir offers strategic direction and momentum to Indian and multi-national firms that are
looking to address the growing needs of one of the world’s largest and fastest growing
market. Wazir assists its clients in developing winning business strategies and implementing
them successfully from end to end.
With a team of experienced professionals, Wazir offers a comprehensive range of services
to its clients to create, compete and develop their consumer-centric businesses in the
exciting and challenging Indian market. Wazir’s team comprises of engineers, MBA’s,
financial experts and economists from reputed institutes like INSEAD, IIT, IIM, TIT, NIFT, IMS,
IIFT and ICFAI.
Wazir’s service offerings:
a. Strategic Advisory Services
-Assess market opportunity
-Develop business & sales strategy
-Conduct business & financial planning
-Support action planning & assist
implementation
b. Business Advisory Services
-Facilitate M&A
-Promote JV & alliances
-Provide funding & investment support
c. Services for International Companies
-Develop market entry strategy
-Pursue M&A opportunities
-Identifying local partners: JV, franchisee
or licensee
-Facilitate setting up business in India
d. Services for PE Funds
-Develop sector investment strategy
-Identify targets & facilitate investments
-Due diligence of target companies