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Washington County Cooperative Extension Service
February 2020
Wheelbarrow Series 2
Wheelbarrow Series 3
Wheelbarrow Series 4
Wheelbarrow Series 5
Wheelbarrow Series 6
Prune and Fertilize Fruit 7
Time To Control Diseases 8-9
February To Do’s 9
Ordering Vegetable Seeds 10
Ordering Vegetable Seeds 11
Plant of The Month 11
Recipe of The Month 12
Inside this issue:
HORTICULTURE
Follow Us at
Washington County
Extension
Cooperative Extension Service
Washington County
245 Corporate Drive
Springfield KY, 40069
(859) 336-7741
Fax: (859) 336-7445
http://ces.ca.uky.edu/washington
Gardeners Wheelbarrow Series 2020 Thursday February 13th 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM
Climate Change and Its Effects on Fruit Production in Kentucky
This program was presented at the Fruit and Vegetable Conference this year by Dr. John Strang fruit specialist at UK. Whether you agree on what is causing our climate to change or not, there is a lot of scientific data and forecasts out there. Fruit growers should begin to become familiar with it. Register by Feb. 10th. FREE!
Thursday February 20th at 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM
Starting Plants from Seed Indoors
In this class you will learn tips on seed starting, including how to use grow lights and cold frames effectively. We will also discuss sanitation, containers, watering and much more. Registration required before February 15th. FREE!
Thursday February 27th at 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM
Bountiful Blueberries
Almost everyone loves blueberries although they aren’t necessarily the easiest fruits to grow in Central Kentucky. In this class we will discuss how to grow blueberries including site selection, soil adjustments, pest control, and water requirements. Register by March 1st. FREE!
Gardeners Wheelbarrow Series 2020 Thursday March 5th at 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM
Heirloom Tomatoes
No other fruit or vegetable is loved more than a vine ripened home grown tomato…. unless it’s a home-grown vine ripened heirloom tomato! Heirloom varieties tend to be a little more difficult to grow than hybrids, but the effort is worth it. Join us for an in-depth discussion on how to grow these sweet succulent wonderfully tasty fruits. $10.00 Register by February 20th. Participants will receive several varieties of seed to try at home.
Thursday March 26th at 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM Growing Asparagus in Kentucky
In this session you will learn how to grow delectable homegrown asparagus spears in your garden. Nothing says spring has arrived like the first few messes of fresh asparagus. This perennial vegetable seems to get a bad rap from gardeners who aren’t successful in growing it. Join us for an in-depth sure way to start your own asparagus bed to enjoy for years to come. Each participant will receive plants to grow at home. Supply fee $10.00. Register by March 10th
Thursday April 16th at 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM Queens of The Garden…. Hybrid Tea Roses
Hybrid tea roses produce the long stem roses we often see from florists and they aren’t difficult to grow once you understand what these beauties require. In this session we will discuss variety selection, cultural requirements, and spray schedules. Register by March 20th. Supply fee $25.00. Each participant will receive at least one Hybrid Tea to start their rose garden.
Thursday April 23rd 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM
Lovely Lilacs
Lilacs in bloom may be quintessential fragrance of spring. Join us for a look at these easy to grow large shrubs. We will cover varieties, planting and site selection, pest and disease management, propagation, and a bit of lilac history and lore. Register by April 1st. Each participant will receive an old fashion lilac to try at home. $10.00 plant fee.
Thursday April 30th at 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM
Beans, Beans, The Magical Fruit
Most of us enjoy beans in some form or fashion. In this class we will explore the multitude of varieties associated with these stick to your rib’s vegetables. Each participant will receive a variety of beans to try at home along with information on how to grow them. Supply charge $10.00. Register by April 1st.
Gardeners Wheelbarrow Series 2020 Thursday May 7th at 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM
How to Develop a Monarch Butterfly Habitat
There is a myriad of native butterflies, but none captures our imagination as much as monarchs. The number of monarchs has dwindled do to habitat loss however. In this session we will discuss how to develop a monarch habitat that will not only help them but other butterfly species as well. Register by April 15th. FREE!
Thursday May 14th at 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM
Perennials for Late Season Color
Late summer and fall are the times of year that tend to lack color in the perennial beds. Join us for a look into varieties and species to increase that color along with cultural practices that can extend the season. Register by May 1st. FREE!
Thursday May 21st at 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM Hosta’s…. Not What You Think
Hosta is the ideal plant for shade and part shade gardens. No other plant can give such a lush look to a shade garden and no other shade plant can give you the colors Hosta can. In this session we will discuss variety selection, planting locations, pest management, and some little none facts about this tough shade loving perennial. Register by May 1st, $20.00. Each participant will take home at least three Hosta varieties.
Thursday May 28th at 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM Sensational Sunflowers
They are beautiful, edible, and even perennial, sunflowers! In this class we will discuss culture, variety, and uses of this versatile plant family. Each participant will receive several varieties of seed to try at home as well. Register by May 1st, $5.00.
Thursday June 4th at 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM
Growing Hardy Figs in Kentucky
Figs aren’t generally a crop you think of for Kentucky but there is a variety that we can grow here and consistently get these tasty fruits. In this session we will discuss variety selection, location, and pest management. Register by May 20th. FREE!
Thursday June 11th at 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM
Growing Flowers for Drying
Dried flowers can be expensive, but you can dry your own. Join us for a look into what to grow, how to grow them, and techniques for drying them for future use. Each participant will take home a selection of flower seeds to grow at home. Register by June 1st, $10.00
Gardeners Wheelbarrow Series 2020 Thursday June 18th at 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM
Easy Orchids
Orchids are one of the most evolved plant species and some of them are hard to grow because they have very specific requirements. In this session we will discuss the easier varieties and how to care for them for years of enjoyment. FREE! Register by June 10th.
Thursday June 25th at 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM
Growing Lavender in Kentucky
Lavender has been grown for centuries and used for its scent and calming effects. It doesn’t like our wet winters, but it is possible to successfully grow it in Kentucky. We will discuss variety selection, planting, pest and disease management, and uses for home grown lavender. FREE! Register by June 10th.
Thursday August 13th at 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM
Aloes…...Not Just Vera
Just about everyone has heard of Aloe vera and likely used products with it in it, nothing soothes a sunburn better than aloe. But did you know there is a lot more to this family of plants than just vera. In this class we will explore the larger family and how to grow them at home. Each participant will take home three small aloes to grow at home as well. Supple fee $5.00, register by August 1st.
Thursday August 20th at 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM
Growing Great Greens in The Fall
Many of us grow greens in the spring but did you know fall grown have a much better flavor? In this session we will discuss how to get greens started in hot weather, varieties, and pest management. Free Seeds for all participants! Register by August 10th.
Thursday September 3rd at 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM
Composting 101
Composting is something most gardeners want to do but most of them don’t do it right. In this session we will discuss how to make compost the right way so that weeds and pests aren’t scattered around the garden. Register by August 15th. FREE!
Thursday Sept. 10th at 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM
New and Interesting Shrubs
Each year new shrubs are released and more so in the last few years. Many of these are worthy of adding to your landscape. Join us for a survey of what is new and unique in the world of shrubs. Register by September 1st. FREE!
Gardeners Wheelbarrow Series 2020
Thursday Sept. 17th at 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM
Reblooming Bearded Iris
Bearded iris is one of the most popular spring perennials, but did you know some varieties can bloom in the fall too? In this class we will focus on the rebloomers and how to care for bearded iris. Each participant will get rhizomes to grow at home as well. Register by August 15th, $20.00.
Thursday October 1st at 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM
Vivacious Viburnums
Viburnums are a large group of woody plants and many of you have them and don’t know it. Some varieties even get confused with hydrangeas. Join us for an in depth look at this easy to grow diverse family of plants. Register by September 15th. FREE!
Thursday October 15th at 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM
Naturalizing with Hardy Bulbs
In this class you will learn how to create an area with spring flowering bulbs that return year after year without help from you! Bulb selection is key! Register by Sept. 1st. $25.00 Each participant will take home several bulbs!
Thursday October 22nd at 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM
Holiday Cactus
Most of us call these beautiful plants Christmas Cactus but that isn’t accurate. There are several types and varieties of these beautiful easy to grow plants all with specific bloom times. In this session we will discuss identification, propagation, and general care. Participants will receive small plants to grow at home. $10.00 Register by October 1st.
Thursday October 29th at 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM
Putting the Garden to Bed
Gardeners hate to see winter come but it does and there are things that we need to do in the fall to prepare our gardens. Join us to learn how to put your garden to bed for a long winters nap. Register by October 15th. Free!
Gardeners Wheelbarrow Series 2020 Fill Out Registration Return To The Extension Office
February 13 Climate Change And Its Affect On Fruit Production In
February 20 Starting Plants From Seed Indoors
February 27 Bountiful Blueberries
March 5 Heirloom Tomatoes
March 26 Growing Asparagus In Kentucky
April 16 Queens Of The Garden….Hybrid Tea Roses
April 23 Lovely Lilacs
April 30 Beans, Beans, The Magical Fruit
May 7 How To Develop Monarch Butterfly Habitat
May 14 Perennials For Late Summer And Fall Color
May 21 Hostas….Not What You Think
May 28 Sensational Sunflowers
June 4 Growing Hardy Figs In Kentucky
June 11 Growing Flowers For Drying
June 18 Easy Orchids
June 25 Growing Lavender In Kentucky
August 13 Aloes….Not Just Vera
August 20 Growing Great Greens In The Fall
Basic Registration For Any and All Classes $5.00 X
Total From Above
Minus Discount of $10.00 if Doing Entire Series
TOTAL
September 10 New And Interesting Shrubs
October 29 Putting The Garden To Bed
October 22 Holiday Cactus (Thanksgiving, Christmas, Easter)
October 15 Naturalizing With Hardy Bulbs
October 1 Vivacious Viburnums
September 17 Reblooming Bearded Iris
September 3 Composting 101
Now is the right time to prune most fruit trees. Apples, plums, pears, cherries and just about any other tree fruit you can think of need a little help now before they actively start pushing out new growth (wait and prune peaches after flowering) Pruning is a necessary process that will increase your yields, decrease insect and disease problems, and give you a healthy tree in the process.
When pruning fruit trees always make cuts flush to the branch collar, this is the raised area with a few wrinkles at the base of each branch or limb. It is important that you don’t leave a stub or cut the limb flush with the trunk, meaning don’t cut the branch collar off. If you leave a stub it will have to rot and fall off before the collar can grow over and seal off the wound. If you cut flush to the trunk it may never properly heal and you will invite insect and disease problems.
Pruning is necessarily to remove damaged branches. Thin out the tree especially in the middle where most insects and disease
problems arise. This is a moist stagnant area with little air flow. By thinning the middle of your tree you will increase the air flow thus decrease insect and disease problems.
Branches that are crossing or touching should also be removed. By crossing I mean they are close enough that in a few years they will be rubbing or touching. Many times branches will hang lower when the fruit load is high and will cause wounds or
bent areas on the stems. If you think a limb will be a problem with a large fruit load then remove it.
Any dried “mummy” fruit still hanging on the tree should be
removed and composted or discarded. Mummies account for the largest insect and disease inoculums on most fruit trees.
If you see any canker spots from fire blight cut the limb back down into healthy wood, but do it soon because fire
blight will be active starting in mid March. If you are worried about spreading fire blight further then dip your pruning equipment in a 10% bleach solution each time you make a cut.
Look for insect eggs while pruning your trees. The most prevalent will be tent caterpillar. Their eggs look like raised tar spots on the stem. The egg mass is really
hard and it’s easier to prune it out than to try and scrape them off. If you want you can spray your fruit trees with dormant oil labeled for
fruit trees, this will smother many of the insect eggs. Be sure to read the label and cover the branches and limbs completely.
If your fruit trees haven’t grown as you wish or don’t seem like they are healthy you should have a soil test done. As a general rule most fruit trees need ¼ pound 33-0-0 or ¾ pound 10-10-10 per tree per year of age broadcast under the tree. Be sure to take it out
to at least the drip line where the feeder roots are. If you maintain a lawn fertilizer program your fruit trees probably don’t need fertilizing. Over fertilizing can be worse than under fertilizing because it will cause a lot of soft succulent growth, fewer flowers, and increased instance for insect and disease problems.
Prune and Fertilize Fruit Trees
A good cut healing nicely. Notice the branch collar growing over the wound.
Prune out fire blight can-kers.
Tent Caterpillar Eggs
Remove fruit mummies!
Winter believe it or not is a good time to prepare fruiting crops for the season ahead. It has been too cold for most of the winter for many of us to feel like braving the outdoors to any activities that aren’t absolutely essential, but on the next warm day it is very important for us to get some work done to insure a nice fruity harvest this summer. Many fruit diseases can be partially controlled by being vigilant with cleanup and fungicidal sprays at proper times. Also, remember pruning should take place in late February on fruiting trees. Below is a list of fruit crops along with diseases of concern and some things to do to help you have a successful harvest.
Apples-The diseases of concern in early spring are scab, cedar rust, and fire blight. If you are ordering nursery stock, plan on growing disease-resistant apples. Nursery catalogs will indicate varieties that are scab-resistant. Prune out old fire blight cankers now, while it is still cold, so new infections won't occur. Prune also to thin the tree canopy to allow good air movement and sunlight penetration. Remove and destroy fruit mummies left on the tree from last season. Remove nearby cedar trees, source of rust diseases, if possible.
Obtain fixed copper or Bordeaux mixture to apply to the apple twigs and branches just as the buds begin to swell next month. Obtain a scab fungicide with ingredients such as mancozeb, captan, myclobutanil, or thiophanate-methyl so that sprays can be applied as green foliage (green tips) is just emerging and repeated periodically throughout the spring months. Carefully read fungicide labels before making spray applications. Stone fruits-The diseases of concern in early spring are peach leaf curl, plum black knot, and eventually brown rot and scab. Apply fixed copper or Bordeaux sprays now to prevent peach leaf
curl. In some parts of the state, it may be already too late because of warm weather, buds may
have begun to swell and leaf curl infections may have just begun. Prune to thin the tree canopy to allow good air movement and sunlight penetration. Prune out any diseased or cankered twigs and branches from the trees. Remove and destroy last year's mummified fruit still hanging in the tree or on the ground. Prune out black knot disease swellings from plum trees. Obtain brown rot and scab fungicides with ingredients such as sulfur, captan, or myclobutanil. Read
and understand the chemical labels. Grapes- The diseases of concern in early spring are black rot, anthracnose, cane and leaf spot, and downy mildew. Prune the grape canopy to allow good sunlight penetration and air movement, as well as to maximize fruit production. Prune out any diseased, dead, or cankered vines. Remove and destroy all of last year's fruit mummies hanging on the vine and lying on the ground. Apply lime-sulfur sprays to the dormant vines just as buds begin to swell to prevent anthracnose. Obtain fungicides with ingredients such as captan, mancozeb, myclobutanil, or thiophanate-methyl to be used for black rot and cane and leaf spot management. Be prepared to apply fungicides as the first green leaves are beginning to appear on the vines and to repeat the applications throughout the spring as called for on the pesticide label. Brambles- The raspberry and blackberry disease of most concern in the spring are anthracnose and orange rust. Prune out dead and winter-injured canes. Apply lime-sulfur fungicide to the canes in early spring just as the buds begin to swell, but before green tissue emerges. Be prepared to remove and destroy orange-rust infected blackberries and black raspberries. These plants will appear abnormally whitish and spindly in early spring as they emerge from the ground. If orange rust is present in the neighborhood, remove and destroy wild blackberries growing in nearby
Time To Control Fruit Diseases
Fireblight on Apple
fields and fencerows, if feasible. If, because of rainy weather last year, plants died from root rot disease, improve drainage in the garden or grow brambles on raised beds. Strawberries- The diseases of most concern in spring will be fruit rot diseases. Apply straw mulch to the beds between the rows and under the canopy so that fruits will not have to touch the ground. Provide adequate spacing of the
strawberry plants to provide good sunlight penetration and air movement to help reduce gray mold
fruit rot. Hand remove dead leaves and stems from the strawberry bed to reduce the presence of the gray mold fungus. If sprays, such as captan, are to be used to prevent fruit rot,
the sprays need to be applied to the strawberry flowers in early spring. Blueberries- The diseases of most concern will be twig blights and
cankers. Prevent twig canker diseases by avoiding stressful growing conditions. Mulch blueberries with organic matter, such as wood chips, and adjust the soil pH if necessary to provide favorable growing conditions. Prune out dead and dying twigs and branches from the blueberry plants. If, because of wet weather, blueberries are declining and dying due to root rot disease, improve garden soil drainage or grow blueberries on raised beds.
Brown Rot On Peach
Time To Control Fruit Diseases
To Do’s For February
Trees And Shrubs
February is a good time to prune trees and shrubs. Of course depending on bloom time.
One note of caution on pruning, if the tree or shrub is an ornamental and blooms in the spring don’t prune it until after it blooms. Fruit trees should be pruned now through the beginning of March.
If you aren’t sure what your soil needs it is always a good idea to have a soil test done. It is FREE and it will save you time and money in the long run.
Now is also a good time to force branches of flowering trees and shrubs indoors. Several varieties such as flowering quince, dogwood, forsythia, star magnolia, crabapple, flowering cherry, and pussy willow are all good candidates for forcing.
Vegetables
If you are growing your own
vegetable transplants in window seals or under lights remember as a general rule it takes about six weeks for a good sized transplant to grow.
This means you can start broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kohlrabi, Chinese cabbage, and other cool season garden plants in mid February. These will be planted in the garden in late March.
Again, take a soil sample now for your vegetable garden. This will keep your fertilizer bill down and your plants healthy.
If you haven’t ordered your vegetable seeds yet go ahead and do it so you will get them in plenty of time for spring.
Lawn
If your lawn needs lime it can be applied now or anytime. You don’t need lime on a lawn unless the pH is below 6.0.
Don’t apply nitrogen now. Wait
until October, November, or December. Nitrogen applications in the spring will force your grass to grow succulently and quickly causing more frequent mowing and weak shallow rooted turf which will be more susceptible to drought.
Apply phosphorus and potassium anytime of the year as your soil test indicates.
Mid February and March are the times to sow new lawns or over seed old ones. September is the best time but now is the second best.
Pre-emergent control herbicides can be applied in late February and March. This will help control annual weeds. A second application may be needed in late May or June for good crabgrass control. Don’t apply pre-emergent herbicides if you sowed or plan to sow grass seed this spring.
Cool temperatures and gray days may make spring feel far away, but planning for vegetable gardens begins during winter months when seeds are ordered. Looking through a seed catalog, store rack, or online product offering, it’s easy to become overwhelmed by options. But, for gardeners who have had issues in the past, choosing different varieties is one way to preventatively manage disease.
Varieties can be referred to as tolerant or resistant, both of which can result in better yields, but are two different plant properties. Tolerance is the ability of the plant to endure disease, while still producing yielding fruit. Resistance is the ability to prevent or slow disease development by way of naturally occurring aspects of the plant. The majority of hybrid vegetable varieties have been “improved” through natural breeding methods for these traits. Selection of resistant cultivars can reduce the impact diseases may have on plant vigor and yield, as well as reduce or eliminate the need for chemical management practices. Disease resistance is especially important for the home garden,
which many either cannot or prefer not to spray.
No single cultivar is known to have resistance to all diseases of concern, and resistance is specific to a particular disease. Thus, gardeners should select varieties with resistance to diseases that are most common for their area or those that have been diagnosed as an issue in the past. Common diseases of major vegetable garden plants are listed below.
Information about which disease(s) a variety is resistant to can be found on seed packets or in catalogs. Disease names may be listed as an abbreviation. For example, the letter ‘V’ may follow the tomato variety name, indicating resistance to Verticillium wilt. Seed catalogs and online retailers sometimes detail disease resistance codes on a separate page. Take care to thoroughly read seed packets if purchasing in-store.
Tolerant and Resistant Cultivars
Tomato
Early blight is the most common disease of tomatoes in Kentucky, and often co-occurs with Septoria leaf spot. Tomatoes with some resistance to early blight are ‘Jasper,’ ‘Matt’s Wild Cherry,’ ‘Mountain Magic,’ and ‘Sun Gold’ (small cherry tomatoes), ‘Indigo Rose,’ ‘Plum Regal,’ and ‘Verona’ (Roma size), and ‘Defiant,’ ‘Iron Lady,’ ‘Mountain Fresh Plus,’ ‘Mountain Merit,’ and ‘Stellar’ (slicing size).
Pepper
The bacterial spot pathogen causes the most common disease of peppers. There are at least ten races of the pathogen, and pepper resistance is race-specific. Commonly occurring races can vary by location, so the safest route would be to choose varieties with resistance to as many races as possible.
Some suggested varieties include: ‘Boca,’ ‘Ninja,’ ‘Outsider,’ ‘Playmaker,’ ‘Samurai,’ and ‘Tracer.’
Cucurbits (Cucumber, Squashes, Muskmelon, Watermelon, Pumpkin, and Zucchini)
Many powdery mildew resistant varieties of picklers, slicers, pumpkins, and squash are available. Varieties that are less susceptible to bacterial wilt include the pickle cukes ‘Cross Country’ and ‘County Fair,’
‘Howden’ pumpkins, and ‘Waltham Butternut’ squash. Manage cucumber beetles for best management of bacterial wilt. All watermelons have natural resistance to bacterial wilt.
Leafy Greens
Ordering Seeds For Vegetable Gardens
Many lettuces have been bred for resistance to downy mildew. Consider head lettuces ‘Kweik,’ and ‘Pirat,’ green leafed lettuces ‘Black Seeded Simpson,’ and ‘Nevada,’ and red
leafed lettuces ‘Galactic,’ ‘Red Zin,’ and ‘Rustica’ for their additional resistance to bacterial disease and/or white mold.
Powdery mildew-resistant lettuces to try include ‘Jericho’ and ‘Super Jericho’ (romaines), ‘Sandy’ (oakleaf),
‘Loma,’ ‘Red Salad Bowl,’ and ‘Skyphos’ and ‘Red Cross’ (red butterheads). ‘Regal’ and ‘Samish’ spinaches are resistant to downy mildew and white rust. Kale, collards, turnip greens, and mustards are naturally less susceptible to many diseases, so variety selection
should rely on purchasing certified or treated seed and choosing varieties that will perform well under site and seasonal conditions.
Legume Vegetables (Beans and Peas)
Many French and green beans have been bred for resistance to anthracnose, but resistance in other types of beans is unavailable. ‘Caprice,’ ‘Espada,’ ‘Kentucky Blue,’ ‘Romano II,’ ‘Volunteer,’ and ‘Goldkist’ are fungal leaf spot and/or
rust resistant bean varieties, with additional resistance to various viral diseases (not common in KY). ‘Green Arrow,’ ‘Cascadia,’ ‘Sugar Daddy,’ and ‘Oregon Sugar Pod II’ are pea varieties suggested for their
resistance to powdery mildew, Fusarium, and Verticillium wilts.
Cole Crops (Cabbage, Broccoli, Cauliflower, Kohlrabi, and Brussel sprouts)
Black rot is the most common disease of cole crops in KY. Cabbage varieties ‘Bilko,’ ‘Blues,’ ‘China Pride,’ ‘Blue Vantage,’ and ‘Bronco’ carry resistance to a broad range
of diseases, such as downy mildew, Fusarium yellows, and/or black rot. Broccoli varieties ‘Emperor,’ ‘Pinnacle,’ and ‘Green Magic’, as well as cauliflower variety ‘Majestic’ are resistant
to downy mildew and/or black rot. ‘Grand Duke’ kohlrabi is resistant to black rot as well.
By Kim Leonberger, Extension Associate and Emily Pfeufer, Extension Plant Pathologist
Ordering Seeds For Vegetable Gardens
Nicknamed the Rattlesnake Plant for its strikingly orna-mental foliage, this native of tropical Brazil forms a clump of light green, lance-shaped leaves that are heavily pat-terned with attractive dark green accents. Adding con-trast are the rich maroon un-dersides of each leaf. Winner of the RHS Award of Gar-den Merit, Rattlesnake Plant (Calathea insignis) makes a handsome addition to interiors, and thrives in bright indirect light.
Plant of The Month Calathea Lancifolia (Rattlesnake Plant)
245 Corporate Drive Springfield KY, 40069
Office 859-336-7741 Fax 859-336-7445
Email [email protected]
Washington County Cooperative Extension Service
We Are On The Web!!!
washington.ca.uky.edu
Facebook at: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Washington-County-Horticulture/140659449317295
Recipe of The Month-Greek Style Spaghetti Squash
Ingredients: 1 spaghetti squash (2-3 pounds) 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup chopped onion 1/4 cup chopped green bell pepper 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 cup fresh spinach leaves 1 1/2 cups chopped tomatoes 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1 teaspoon lemon no-salt seasoning blend 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil 3/4 cup crumbled low-fat feta cheese
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Prepare the squash by carefully cutting it in half lengthwise with a sharp knife and scooping out the seeds. Place on a lightly greased baking sheet, cut -side down and bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until a sharp knife can be easily inserted into the rind. Remove the squash from the oven and allow to cool. When cooled, use a fork to scrape out the stringy flesh from the shell and place in a colander. Press out as much liquid as possible. Place squash in a medium bowl and keep warm. Heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat. Sauté the onion and bell pepper until tender. Add the garlic and continue to cook 2-3 minutes. Add the spinach; allow to wilt. Stir in tomatoes and cook until tomatoes are heated through. Toss the cooked vegetables with the warm spaghetti squash. Stir in seasonings, basil, and feta cheese. Serve warm.
Directions:
