Placer SPCA

Trap– Neuter- Release (TNR) Resource Guide

150 Corporation Yard Road Roseville, Ca 95678 916-782-7722 www.placerspca.org Hours: Tuesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday: 11am– 4pm Wednesday & Thursday: 2pm—7pm Mondays: Closed

Please see inside for more information on TNR for free-roaming or community cats.

rev. 05/2014

S.N.A.P

Spay and Neuter Assistance Program

The Placer SPCA also provides subsidized and free spay and neuter services for cats, pitbulls, pitbull mixes, and rabbits whose owners reside in Placer County. For more information about our SNAP program visit our website at www.placerspca.org/snap or give us a call at 916-782-7722 x 201.

www.placerspca.org

The Placer SPCA is a private, nonprofit organization not affiliated with any other entity. We do not receive donations through the ASPCA or HSUS.

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What is Trap-Neuter-Release (TNR)?

Trap: Humanely trap all the cats in a colony (a group of cats living outdoors together).

Neuter: Getting the cats that have been trapped spayed/neutered, vaccinated, and ear-tipped (a universal symbol indicating they have been

altered).

Return: Return the cats to their original outdoor home.

Why Trap– Neuter-Release? TNR works to help end reproduction, stabilizes colony populations, and improves the lives of the cats. Other benefits include:

♥ Gradual decline of the colony size.

♥ Sterilizing cats is cheaper than euthanizing them– saving tax dollars.

♥ Annoying behaviors such as yowling, fighting, spraying, and roaming will stop or decrease dramatically.

♥ Vaccinations help protect both the human and cat communities within the area.

Why Removing the Cats Doesn’t Work Removing cats from their established territory only means that other cats will come in from outside the area to fill the void. This “vacuum effect” is why you have free-roaming cats in your neighborhood even after years of removal efforts.

Placer County’s Companion Animal Welfare Experts – Where Your Donations Stay Local

150 Corporation Yard Road Roseville, CA 95678

916.782.7722, Ext. 112 or 530.885.7387, Ext. 112 Fax: 916.782.8655 snap@placerspca.org

Thank you for Your Interest in Trap-Neuter-Release!

The Placer SPCA participates in an approach to solve the problem of feral and stray cats within our community. This process is known as Trap-Neuter-Release, or TNR.

If you are thinking about trapping cats in your area, please read through this resource guide carefully so you can be as prepared as possible for the journey ahead.

All cats brought to the Placer SPCA will be: ♥ Spayed or neutered ♥ Vaccinated with a 1 year rabies vaccine ♥ Ear tipped (the tip of the cat’s ear is surgically removed

to show that the cat has already been spayed or neutered)

If you have any questions about TNR, would like to rent a humane trap, or would like to make an appointment to bring in a trapped cat to our Public Feral Clinic, please see page 15 of this guide for more information or contact us.

Kathryn D’Anjou

SNAP Program Coordinator, Placer SPCA (916) 782-7722, ext. 112 (530) 885-7387, ext. 112 snap@placerspca.org

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The Placer SPCA offers a program for you to consider:

Public Feral Clinic. We understand that not all trapping attempts are successful, but for this clinic we will work with you to make standing appointments in which you would bring the trapped cats to our Roseville facility between 7:45 and 8:15 in the morning. Cats MUST be brought in a trap a long with a clean plastic carrier with your last name on it. We will not accept any cat that is not in a trap. This is for both the safety of the cat(s) as well as our staff.

Cats will receive a rabies vaccine and an ear tip in addition to being altered at no cost to the client. Any other services that you would want for the cat would be up to you to pay for.

Cats will be picked up between 3:30 and 4:00 p.m. on the same day. Cats will go home in the carrier you provided that morning. We ask that if you are able to, hold the cat in its carrier in a secluded room or bathroom for one night. This allows the cat to recover from surgery and allow any drugs given to be processed by the body. You can then release the cat(s) the very next morning. To inquire about our Public Feral Clinic please contact us at:

916-782-7722 x 112 530.885.7387, x 112 snap@placerspca.org

Traps: If you are in need of a trap, the Placer SPCA has traps available for rental depending on availability. Trap rentals require a $50.00 deposit by credit card. We will charge your card is if the trap gets broken for any reason or is not returned.

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Other resources to consider for information on trapping or the care of free-roaming or community cats:

Alley Cat Allies www.alleycat.org

AnimalSave 520 Main Street, Grass Valley, CA 95945 530-447-1706 www.animalsave.org

ASPCA www.aspca.org/adopt/feral-cats-faq

FieldHaven 754 Ironwood Lane Lincoln, CA 95648 (916) 434-6022 www.fieldhaven.com

Happytails 6001 Folsom Blvd, Sacramento, CA 95819 (916) 556-1155 www.happytails.com

Katch a Kitty www.tokatchakitty.com/

Sacramento SPCA 6201 Florin-Perkins Road, Sacramento, Ca 95828 916.383.7387 www.sspca.org

Spay and Neuter Clinic in Auburn 530-889-8800 www.animalspayneuter.com/content/feral.htm

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A Word About Community Cats

There are many terms used for free-roaming cats. You might have heard of a “feral” or “stray cat”, but what about the term “community cats”? Community cats is a term that incorporates both the feral and stray cats that roam free and live in our communities. Community cats exist in almost any environmental niches that have a plentiful food source. Many may ask, “what is the difference between a stray and feral cat?”. Before you begin trapping, it is helpful to determine the difference for the cats you will be trapping. A “stray cat” is a domestic cat who has been abandoned or has strayed from home and become lost. A stray cat may be skiddish, but because they once knew human companionship, they usually can be socialized and rehomed. Adult “feral cats” usually cannot be socialized and are most content living outside.

Stray Cats: Likely to approach you

May approach food right away

Likely to be vocal

May look disheveled

May be seen at all hours of the day

Feral Cats: Will not approach you

Will wait until you leave before approaching food

Will be silent

Will appear groomed

May be more active at night or only come out at night

What is Ear– Tipping?

Ear tipping is a safe, harmless, and widely accepted surgical

procedure, in which a portion of the upper left or right ear is

removed to mark a community cat as altered, and therefore no

longer reproducing. Ear-tipping is completely safe and rarely

requires special aftercare. In

addition to signifying an altered

cat, the presence of an ear tip

may also suggest that the cat is

part of a managed colony. Ear

tipping helps identify altered

cats and reduce unnecessary

surgeries.

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Have a Plan. Take time to feel comfortable and confident in your plan of action. Review all the Trap-Neuter-Return steps and scenarios in this guide. Every trapping effort is different. A colony’s location will have unique elements for you to consider. Use your discretion and common sense to determine any additional steps to those provided in this guide, and tailor the basics to fit your colony’s situation. Plan a site visit ahead of time. Make note of where the cats have been feeding and make a plan. Figure out where you will need to set the trap(s). Locate a place where you can watch the traps without disrupting the cat’s normal environment. If you are trapping on property that is not yours, it is always best to contact the property owner to ask permission to Trap, Neuter, and Release on their property. Find out when and how you can gain access to the trapping location. Establish a feeding pattern. If a feeding pattern has not already been established, feed the cats in the same place at the same time everyday. Preferably this would be at a time and place that you will begin to trap them. It will be helpful to establish a feeding pattern a few days prior to when you wish to begin trapping. Feed the cats as much as they can eat in a 30 min period and pick up the food after that period. If you have a feeding station, make sure it is positioned in an area that is free of human traffic. If others in the area are feeding the cats, you may need to contact neighbors or distribute flyers that say you will be trapping soon and ask them not to feed the cats until a later time.

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Once you have returned the cats, provide food and water. If you are continuing to care for them, you can resume the cat’s regular feeding schedule. The cats may stay away from the area for a few days after being returned, but they will come back eventually. Clean traps with non-toxic disinfectant. Throw out all newspaper, and wash trap covers and any towels used.

You have joined many other compassionate individuals to improve and protect the lives of the outdoor cats in your community. After you have returned the altered free-roaming cats: ♥ Trap any remaining colony members that eluded your first

round of trapping and any new comers that join the colony in the future.

♥ Alley Cat Allies is a great resource on trapping and caring for

free-roaming cats. You can find best practices on continued care for your colony at www.alleycat.org/colonycare.

♥ If there are others who know of

free-roaming cats in their community, encourage them to take part in a Trap-Neuter-Release program as well. The more individuals who take part, the more lives that can be saved.

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Cats may be returned to you after surgery in the trap or a clean plastic carrier that you provide. Confirm with the shelter or clinic you will be taking your trapped cats to what type of carriers they prefer. Let the cats recover in their carrier or trap overnight in a secluded room (bathrooms typically work great). While cats are recovering, it can be beneficial to keep them covered with a towel or sheet to reduce stress and keep them calm. Cats should be kept quiet in their carrier or trap overnight and can be released the very next morning. While normally, the recovery period is longer for owned pets, it is a good goal to return the cats as soon as you can. Confinement can be very stressful for feral cats.

Monitor the cats and keep an eye out for bleeding, infection, illness or lack of appetite. If you see any of these signs, contact your veterinarian immediately. Release: Return the cats to the same location where you trapped them. Early morning is a good time to release the cats. Point the trap or carrier away from roads or high-traffic areas. Try to keep your fingers and hands as far from the cat as possible when opening the front door of the trap or carrier. It may take a few moments for the cats to realize where they are, but they will usually run off once they get their bearings.

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Make sure you have the right type of humane trap. There are many types of humane traps* on the market. The most important thing is making sure the trap is the right size. While there are different types of doors, doors should be between 10-11 inches in width. This allows most veterinarians and staff to safely transfer the cats from the trap to what’s known as a feral box without having to physically handle the cat. This is the safest approach for both the cat and staff.

* Please ask about the loan of a humane trap if you plan to trap, spay/neuter, release, and care for a feral cat. Please see page 15 for more information

Humane Cat Trap

Feral Box– Used by shelter and some veterinary staff to safely transfer cats from the trap to the surgery suite without having to physically handle them.

Example of transferring the cat from the trap to the feral box.

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Assemble your trapping kit. Your trapping kit should include:

Trap(s)

Bait (KFC/deli chicken, salmon/mackerel, canned tuna, cat food– wet or dry).

Towels or sheets to cover traps during trapping and transport.

Flashlights if trapping at night.

Plastic to cover traps if rain is forecast.

Weather and site appropriate clothing.

Utensils (forks or spoons) to scoop out bait; paper towels, wipes.

Trash bags for tuna can lids, utensils, wipes, etc.

Carabiners, twist ties, or a wooden dowel to secure the doors of the trap closed.

Thick gloves to wear for your safety and comfort while carrying the cats in traps.

Vehicle liners such as cardboard, large plastic trash bags, or towels in case cats spill left over bait or have “accidents”.

Patience– trapping can be time-consuming and at times, stressful. If you remember to stay calm and follow the plan that you’ve devised, you will be successful!

Prepare Equipment

Practice ahead of time how to set and bait traps. It’s always a good idea to test all your traps before going out to ensure they are functioning properly.

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Spring the trap yourself: You can manually spring the trap by propping the door up with a piece of wood or soda bottle and tying a pull string to it. When the cat you want enters, simply pull the string to close the trap. Be sure you practice first.

Take a break from trapping: If a cat will not go into a trap after repeated attempts, take a break for a week or two. The trap-shy cat needs to be reconditioned to not be afraid of the trap.

If you are trapping in an area that has a lot of wildlife, you may accidently trap them. What can help prevent wildlife from entering your trap to begin with is to set your trap on a secure ledge or platform that the cats can jump up to, but a raccoon, skunk, or opossum can not. It is important to make sure that the trap is not wobbly and there is no risk of the cat falling if it thrashes once it is trapped. If you have trapped wildlife, and are able to safely, release it as soon as possible. Do not try to relocate it as relocating wildlife is illegal. If the wildlife you have trapped seems very aggressive, and you feel unsafe releasing it, you can call your local Animal Control Agency for help.

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Cats can often become too frightened to go near the trap or trap-savvy and have mastered the art of removing food without triggering the trap. Don’t be discouraged! Here are some tips to try to catch those trap-savvy cats.

Get the cats used to eating out of the trap: Use zip ties or wire to keep the trap door open. Feed the cats out of the trap for several feedings with the door wired open. When the cats have gotten used to the trap, set the trap as normal.

Consider changing bait. Cats often prefer smelly bait such as sardines, salmon, mackerel, catnip, or jarred baby food (not containing onions).

Use distraction techniques to help coax the cat onto the trigger plate: You may be able to guide some cats into a trap with a laser pointer. You can use a pointer from quite a distance away. Another distraction technique is to hang a piece of cooked chicken from a string above the trigger plate. The cat will likely need to step on the trigger to reach the chicken.

Place the trap in a more secluded location or camouflage the trap: Moving the trap to a quieter or more protected location can raise the cat’s comfort level enough to enter. Camouflaging the trap by covering it with a dark cloth or towel can also do the trick. Make sure any coverings do not interfere with the trap door closing.

Withhold food for up to two days: For a particularly trap-savvy cat, you might consider withholding food for up to two days, but do not withhold food any longer. Never withhold water.

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Have a contact ahead of time to whom you will be bringing the cat once it has ben trapped. You can work with a veterinarian or spay and neuter clinic that has feral cat experience. For a complete list of resources for feral cats– please see page 14 in this guide. You can also work with the Placer SPCA to make appointments for their Public Feral Clinic. For more information on how to make an appointment see page 15 or contact us at: 916-782-7722, x 112 530.885.7387, x 112 snap@placerspca.org.

Spay and Neuter Appointments

Pick the day you will trap, and make your spay and neuter appointment. You should schedule appointments as close to the day of trapping as possible. Preferably, you will want to trap the day before or the morning of your appointment.

To make an appointment with the Placer SPCA Public Feral Clinic, contact us at:

916-782-7722, x 112 530.885.7387, x 112 snap@placerspca.org.

Now you are ready to start trapping.

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Set up and Prepare for Trapping Do all of your set up and preparation away from the colony site– remember, the cats may be fearful of people. Trapping will go more smoothly if you don’t disrupt the cats feeding area. Twenty-four hours before trapping, withhold food, but continue to provide water. This will ensure the cats are hungry enough to go into the traps. Make sure you are trapping at the time you have established during your feeding pattern. On the day of trapping, prepare all of the traps:

Line trap bottoms with newspaper and tape or clothespin it down if its windy.

Bait traps. Place about one tablespoon of bait at the very back of the trap so that the cat will step onto the trigger plate while attempting to reach the food. You may choose to put the food on a plastic lid or paper plate. You can also drizzle some juice from the bait along the trap floor towards the entrance.

Place traps on level ground. The cats will not enter

an unstable or wobbly trap. Ensure the metal traps do not sit on a particularly hot or cold pavement where temperatures could make the metal painful to the cats’ paws when they touch it.

Set the trap and move away from the area.

Tip: Keep an eye on the trap at all times for the safety of the cat and to make sure your equipment is not taken or tampered with. You will need to observe from a location far enough away that the cats will not be disturbed, but close enough so you can still see all your traps.

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Once a Cat is Trapped:

Cover the traps with trap covers. Do not be alarmed if the cat thrashes around in the trap once it has shut. Covering the traps with a towel or sheet will help calm them down. Do not try to touch the cat while it is in the trap.

If you are trapping multiple cats at one time, you will need to use your best judgment about removing each cat as they are trapped, since the other cats might be scared off. If a trapped cat is thrashing and scaring the other cats away, it might be best to cover that cat and remove them from the area as quickly and quietly as possible. If you are trapping in cold or rainy weather, cats should be covered and moved to a warm location (such as your car) as soon as they are trapped. Count your traps again before leaving the area to ensure you don’t leave any traps behind. Make sure to pick up any trash (i.e. food cans, paper plates, etc.).

Transport the cats to the shelter or spay and neuter clinic that you have an appointment with at the appropriate time.