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Neo- classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established

Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established

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Page 1: Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established

Neo-classicism toIndustrial

Revolution1793 “Terror”

Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette

Executed, Directoire established

Page 2: Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established
Page 3: Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established
Page 4: Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established

1790-1820 NeoClassicism/Directoire Departures from typical fashion evolution…

Women-waistlines rise, slender silhouette Men-waistline rises, wide lapels (Incroyable, frock)

Changing male ideals-plain, dark, unadorned, suits Tailoring important

1818, tape measure/Brooks Bros.

Beau Brummel, male fashion icon, minimalist style sideburns-first fashionable facial hair in over century

Page 5: Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established
Page 6: Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established

1840-1860 Industrial Revolution Men

Cutaway becomes tailcoat, only evening Sack coat (closest to modern) Decorative waistcoat disappearing Stripes, checks, patterns; some dandies

accessorize Power weaving, cylinder printing-cheaper

fabrics By 1860, fashion journalism global…

Page 7: Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established

1815-1848 Romantic (1790-1840 women) Neoclassical-beginning of consistent historic

revival (Pompeii, classical Greek) “Stays” reduced temporarily, patterned cottons day,

dark/heavy evening 1820s, back to natural waist, volume increases, X

silhouette, horizontal emphasis Corsets, cutting, shaping, applied decoration

1830s wide off-shoulder, printed fabrics, bum rolls, petticoats

Page 8: Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established
Page 9: Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established

1840-1860 Industrial Revol women Sleeve volume reduced, Vertical emphasis-

V waist, bell/pagoda sleeve More exotics imitated, Kashmir shawls

Voluminous skirt “crinoline,” horsehair Technology-cage crinoline, fabric over steel

REFORM dress; health, rights (Bloomer)

Page 10: Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established
Page 11: Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established

Ready-Made Clothing (still 1840-1860) Slops/soldiers (since 1660s)-1st RTW Industrialization/banking

office clerks, not bespoke, consistent business dress (telegraph, typewriter)

1839 Daguerre, photography, truthful visual 1840s London-Savile Row tailoring (Poole, military

tailor) 1846 Howe, sewing machine (5+yrs Singer) 1850s, wood pulp paper, printing 1856, first synthetic dye (1860s common) 1857 Charles Frederick WORTH, Empress Eugenie,

birth of haute couture

Page 12: Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established
Page 13: Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established

Victorian/Edwardian 1860-1910 1837-1901 Queen Victoria/1901-1911 Edward Visual info, mass production, dept stores, mail

order… MEN, standard sizing (Civil War data), menswear

suited to mass production Detachable collar/cuffs, necktie, straight silhouette 3 pc. sack suit, “tuxedo park” tuxedo/evening Hats-bowler/derby, fedora, boater; fewer beards Sports important-Norfolk jacket; bathing costume

Page 14: Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established
Page 15: Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established
Page 16: Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established

Late Victorian 1860-1900 Women-rapid change, difficult to mass produce

Sewing girls Home sewing machine-masses of décor Imports-plaids/tartans, paisley, Zouave jkts

Corset-hourglass; drawers to ankles/chemise Day-modest, evening-low neck/short slv,

extended/wide shoulder-line, wide elliptical hoops/cages

Fair complexion-parasols, gloves, fans

Page 17: Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established
Page 18: Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established

contd. Worth-merchandising/showroom/dictated 1868 Chambre Syndicale de la Couture

Parisienne-regulated/business 1870 BUSTLE, longer corset/bodice (not

round hoop, back emphasis) Princess line (Princess Metternich, Worth

client)-vert seams, no waistline

Page 19: Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established
Page 20: Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established

1880s-developments Emmigration-garment manufacturing… Sweating-long hrs, poor conditions

1900 ILGWU (triangle shirtwaist factory-labor laws/unions)

Dept. stores (Bon marche)-leisure activity Patterns printed in Harper’s

Page 21: Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established

Movements Aesthetic dress

vege dyes, Oscar Wilde, Liberty London Rational dress, health movement (loose) Gay Nineties-la Belle Epoque

Lessening morality from Victorian 1899 Veblen “Theory of Leisure Class” Women in wkforce

Telephone, typewriter, nursing 2pc. Suit, shirtwaist blouse

Page 22: Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established

1880s-1890s women’s fashion 1885 shelf-like projection of skirts Dolman cape, Ulster coat (half-belt) BLACK hide dirt, adapt for mourning

Victoria 1861-1901

Actresses-fashion leaders (photography) 1895 leg-o-mutton sleeve, trumpet skirt

Page 23: Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established
Page 24: Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established

Art Nouveau/Edwardian 1900-1910 Cycling-trousers for women Art Nouveau-curvilinear

S-curve silhouette 1900-1908 Paris exhibition (couturiers)

Monobosom, hip thrust, bishop/leg-o-mutton, softer/light

Gibson Girl Pompadours, wide hats, plumage (Audubon society)

Paul Poiret-freed women 1st modern couturier, 1909 empire waist

Automobiles-duster/motorcoat (and shorter styles)

Page 25: Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established
Page 26: Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established

1910 Corsets http://laracorsets.com/History_of_the_corset_11_1910-1920.htm