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ND MX-5 Miata Door Speaker/Tweeter Kit instructions

WARNING: Not everyone can perform every installation. It is critical that you be honest with yourself in regards to your ability.

We're more than happy to help, but there are only so many things we can do from the other end of a phone / computer. If in

doubt, discuss the install with us before you dive in. Improper installation could result in injury and / or death, and neither one

of those is any good at all!!!

Thanks for choosing our speaker upgrade kit for your ND Miata! We've spent many hours developing and testing these

components and hope you are as excited and satisfied with the results as we are! This installation should be pretty

straightforward if you are already familiar with car audio install work. If that's not you, professional installation is highly

recommended!

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Parts List: CDT Woofers - 2x Dayton Tweeters - 2xCDT Crossovers - 2xAluminum door adapter plates - 2x (L&R) Door speaker pigtail connectors - 2x Sound dampening panels (pair) Female spade connectors - 12xMale spade connectors - 8x

M4x16mm Phillips screws - 8x18ga speaker wire ~19 feetLength of adhesive foam tape ~ 6ftShort cable ties - 6xLong cable ties - 4x

Tools Required:

Small flat blade screwdriver#2 Phillips screwdriverWire cuttersCrimping tool for spade connectors1/4" or 3/8" drive ratchet and 10mm socket

1. Let's prepare somecomponents first. Use some ofthe foam tape to create a gasketaround the speaker opening onthe top side of each adapterplate, working around the screwholes as shown. The "top side" issame as the flange side of thethreaded inserts. Driver's sideadapter plate shown. Passenger'sside is a mirror image.

2. Use the remaining foam tape to wraponce around the outside of eachtweeter. This will ensure a snug fit intothe A-pillar trim piece when replacingthe factory tweeters. Set the tweetersaside for now.

3. Place a new door speaker into anadapter plate and down onto the foamgasket tape with the 2 smaller holes in thespeaker frame pointing upward,everything oriented as shown, so thespeaker terminals end up facing theproper direction. Affix each speaker to aplate using the M4 screws (4x) in thelarger frame holes. Driver's side shown.

4. Attach the pigtail connectors to thegold, push-style speaker terminals, Blackto Black, White to Red. Set the newspeakers aside.

5. Disconnect the negative terminal ofthe battery. This is ALWAYS a good idea for car audio installation jobs.

6. Now let's remove the door panels. Usea small flat blade screwdriver to remove the rubber piece in the bottom of the armrest door pull. Remove the Phillips screw hiding behind it.

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There are eight of these clips positioned around the bottom and sides of the panel. Once they are all loose, the door panel is now hanging on the top edge of the door. You should be able to lift it slightly off the top edge and a couple inches away from the door itself, BUT THINGS ARE STILL ATTACHED! The door latch pull and its cables should come free easily from the back of the panel and hang loose, and there will be a couple electrical connectors for the door lock and window switches. They are different on driver's and passenger's sides. Just work slowly here. It's good to have some help disconnecting things from the panel while you hold it. Once free, set the panels aside.

7. Remove the plastic trim piecebehind the inner door latch. It's alittle tricky, just work slowly. There is another Phillips screw behind it that needs to be removed. Now, working CAREFULLY from the bottom edge of the door panel near the speaker grill, pull outward on the door panel to pop loose the clips holding the panel to the frame.

8. Now that you've exposed the door speaker, remove the three10mm screws holding it in and disconnect the harness connector fromthe speaker. Pack the speakers away so you still have them if you decideto revert back to stock.

9. Fasten the new speaker and plate combointo the factory location using the samethree factory screws and plug the newpigtail into the harness. Repeat on theopposite door.

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10. If your kit came equipped with pre-cutdoor dampening material, locate theproper side piece for the door you'reworking on and put it in place to see howit fits before you remove the backing andaffix to the door. It's very sticky. Be sureto press the material firmly into all nooksand crannies to make sure all surfaces aresticking to the door. Beware of sharp foiledges! Don't cut yourself!!!

11. Check that all the little white clips are correctly positioned on thedoor panels before replacing them. Reconnect harness plugs andreposition door latch and cables. Hang the door panel and align carefullybefore popping the eight clips back into the door. Replace previouslyremoved Phillips screws in two places and both trim pieces. Now is agood time to TEMPORARILY reconnect the battery negative, turn on theignition and stereo and ensure proper operation of the new doorspeakers before going to the next step!

12. Carefully pop up the black plastictrim panel in the lower door openingson both sides and set them aside.Now use a small flat blade screwdriverto pop loose the clips in the whiteplastic wire chase and open it to giveaccess to the wiring inside. Do this onboth sides of the car.

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13. On the driver's side, you'relooking for a twisted pair of wires,yellow with green stripe (-) andyellow with black stripe (+). Theseare the left side speaker wires fromthe factory amplifier. Cut thesewires BEHIND the splicejoint wrapped in blue tape. Thissplice splits the output up betweenthe door speaker and the tweeter.This splice exists further forward onthe passenger's side and is notvisible in the wire chase. Thepassenger's side wires colors arewhite with black stripe (-), and solidyellow (+). Cut this pair as well,somewhere near the middle of thewire chase. Now crimp 2 femalespade connectors to the rear pair ofwires on each side of the car, andcrimp 2 male connectors to eachforward pair of cut wires.

14. Cut two 40" lengths of speaker wire included with the kit, strip about1/4" insulation off all eight wire ends, and crimp two male spadeconnectors to only one end of each length of wire you cut. Plug these endsinto the rear pair of female spade connectors on either side of the car andrun the bare ends toward each footwell and under the dash. You will needto remove the kick panels on each side to route the wire properly. Thesepanels have a single push pin fixing them to the car, and a little bit of therubber door trim will need to be moved to free the kick panels on each side.Connect the bare ends of these new wires to the "INPUT" terminals on thecrossover, minding polarity.

15. Remove the A-pillar covers bygrabbing them firmly and pullingtoward the center of the car. A pair ofclips should pop free fairly easily andthere's a locating tab at the bottom.Be careful to see how they re-attach soyou can replace them withoutbending or breaking anything.Carefully pry the tweeter from the A-pillar cover with a small screwdriver, set the cover aside, and use the screwdriver to assist in disconnecting the tweeter from the harness plug. Tuck the plug out of the way inside the dash, it will not be reconnected.

16. Cut two 48" pieces of speaker wire, strip 1/4" insulation from all ends, and crimp two female spade connectors to one end of each length of wire, leaving the opposite ends bare. Run the bare ends of the wire down through the dash to the area where your crossover will mount and make the connection to the "TWEETER" terminals on the crossover. Press the new tweeters into the factory location and connect the spade connectors to the tweeters. The tweeter terminal with red paint on it is the positive terminal. Carefully tuck the wiring and replace the A-pillar covers.

17. Cut two more 24" lengths of wire, strip all ends as before, and crimp the last four female connectors to one end of each pair of wire. Connect the bare ends to the "WOOFER" terminals on the crossovers, and connect the female spade ends to the forward pairs of males you cut and crimped in step 13.

18. Use the long cable ties included to mount your crossovers under the dash on each side. The driver's side has some space near the kick panel behind some wiring (keep away from footwell/pedal areas), and the passenger's side has a similar space with secure pieces to affix to. Use the shorter cable ties to tidy up any loose wiring, replace all panels and trim pieces and you're ready to enjoy your upgraded sound system!

As with any audio system, enjoy it responsibly, avoiding distortion to protect the components, stay well within the rated power specs, and limit long term loud listening for your ears' sake!

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