Start Mileage: 84,588

End Mileage: 93,691

Total Mileage: 9,103

Start Engine Hours: 2485.13

End Engine Hours: 875.41

Total Engine Hours: 3360.54

States: NY, PA, WV, KY, MO, KS, CO, UT, NV, CA, OR, ID, MT, ND, MN, WI, MI, Canada

2019.04.15…MON…Day 1: Naweedna … to … Ripple Run COECG, Burnsville WV Up: 5:00 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 48/42/50 Weather: Clouds-Wind-Rain-Snow-Fog

Did:

You know the song, Ride Ranger Ride? Well, today it was, Drive Bogie Drive: I-390, NY-36, I-86, I-90, I-79, and

East Shaver Road to Ripple Run CG. We planned to leave yesterday, Sunday. However, a couple things conspired to

change our minds. First, it was the weather. A major cold front was moving in, forming a squall line that stretched

from the Great Lakes to the Gulf. It produced T-Storms, Hail, High Wind & deadly Tornadoes (8 dead as of the

last report). We even had a Tornado warning for WNY, and one was sighted near Fredonia NY. If we had left as

planned, we would have been driving right into all of that. Nope, not gonna do it. Another reason for not leaving

Sunday: our taxes. The accountant had promised they would be ready for our signatures Saturday PM; he lied. They

were not ready until 5 PM Sunday. We would have had to postpone the departure anyway.

So, Monday morning, we were off in a hail of hen shit, as Earl used to say, at about 7:45. The weather was

miserable, although not as life-threatening as yesterday. There was a steady wind blowing from the west that later

switched to the south, and those were the directions we were driving. The wind coupled with Interstate driving

meant low mileage … and not very good (s)mileage either. Ah, but we persevered and have one big day in the book.

Tomorrow we will start heading west … into the wind, no doubt.

Green … the farther south we got, the more greenery we saw. From Pittsburg on, the grass was ready to mow and

most of the trees were either flowering or leafing out. The first flowering trees looked like Cherry, or perhaps

Serviceberry, dotting the hillsides and livening up an otherwise dreary day. A bit farther along, we started seeing

Forsythia, then Redbud, and they added to the roadside merriment. I expect tomorrow we’ll be driving through a

corridor of Redbud and Dogwood.

Traveling this time of year, at this latitude, it can be difficult to find open campgrounds. Janie investigated before

we left and found a State Park that is open all year and within a day’s drive. When we started getting close, she

checked out some particulars: site availability, directions … and cost. OMG, this is one of those “Resort” SPs that

they have turned into a destination for family fun … more Disneyland than campground. It is right off I-79 for

easy access and as a Resort, is complete with amenities we will never need. And the price? Well, it would cost us

upwards of $60 for one night. That’s ridiculous. A bit more research provided some alternatives. Janie found not

one, not two, but three Corps Of Engineer campgrounds (henceforth COECG) in the area … and they had just

opened this week … and we can camp there at half price. We picked the one most convenient and settled in for a

measly, but way more reasonable, $15 for a clean campsite with electric. Done. Who needs golf, frisbee golf, movie

theater, shuffleboard, swimming pool, lodge, restaurant and all that other stuff?

I capped the day off with a rewarding Southern Tier 2x Milk Stout … yum!

Saw:

We saw lots of wildlife on the drive … unfortunately, nearly all of it was dead: Deer, Raccoons, Vultures, 4 what-

looked-like otter (but oh, no, please say it isn’t so), and a lot of unidentifiable biomass. The one live animal we saw

was a Red Fox who trotted across the road in front of us as we descended Abel Hill Road … only a mile from

Naweedna. Fortunately, we did see a few birds … mostly the usual suspects that frequent WNY. There were a few

noteworthy sightings, however. We’ve seen Bald Eagle in the Salamanca NY area and today was no exception. Janie

spotted two nests with white heads sticking out of ‘em. Later, we passed through a wildlife area between Meadville

and Pittsburg and saw a couple Osprey nest-platforms complete with an adult bird. Here’s the complete list for

today: Kestrel

Redtail Hawk

Gull sp

Mourning & Rock Doves

Starling

Crow

Grackle

Redwinged Blackbird

Turkey

Turkey Vulture

Bald Eagle on nest

Swallow sp.

Mallard

Canada Goose

Osprey on nest

Red Fox

Cherry/Serviceberry Blooming

Forsythia Blooming

Redbud Blooming

Skunk Cabbage Leaves

Reflect:

Neither of us seem to have the usual level of excitement that accompanies the start of a trip. Why? I perceive 2

main contributors. First, we are not looking forward to days of hard driving necessary to extricate us from the

familiar or undesirable parts of the journey. That means having to wait a few days before we can start touring …

DALASing, as it were. Secondly, we are heading for unfamiliar locations – places we have either never been or only

briefly explored. That means we don’t have the added impetus of expectations. Normally, that would be a good

thing, because expectations can lead to disappointment. But a little expectation is necessary to stimulate the

imagination and whet the appetite for exploration. That being said, I find myself sitting here typing these words

while looking at a pleasantly natural hillslope with trees producing fresh, green leaves – the Honeysuckle is already

leafed out. It is early spring here in every way except temperature … 46o with a stiff wind. It will be cold tonight,

but we have our two little space-heaters to keep us warm. We are on the road and it feels pretty normal.

Ate:

Granola

Hardboiled Egg

Chili w/extra Beans & canned Chiles purchased in Hatch, NM once upon a time in a state far away

Drive:

End: Ripple Run #4 COECG, Burnsville WV

Arrive: 3:52

Temp (degrees): 45

Elev (ft): 808

D (miles): 448

Mpg: 18.3 (Interstates & Wind)

2019.04.16…TUE…Day 2: Ripple Run COECG, Burnsville WV … to … Canal COECG, Gilbertsville KY Up: 5:15 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 50/34/41 Weather: Valley Fog-Clear & Sunny, stiff PM headwind

Did:

Another driving day, this one bigger than the last. I-79 to Charleston WV, then I-44 to Lexington KY where we

fueled up before getting on the Bluegrass Parkway, which eventually changed to the Western KY Parkway, which, in

turn, changed to I-69 that later merged with I-24. Finally, we arrived at the exit to KY-453 where we fueled up

again before heading down to Canal COECG where we paid $9 for site #8. Whew! All in a day’s (none) work.

The entire drive was REDBUD Way. They were in full reddish-purple or purplish-red glory, lining the highway on

both sides. The most notable were those in the low light of early morning, which caused them to glow among the

surrounding gloom. Somewhere between Lexington KY and the COECG, we crossed into Central Time zone, gaining an

hour. That extra hour allowed us to cover 500 miles and still be sitting in camp by beer time. The Bluegrass area

around Lexington was made even more glorious by the wall-to-wall sunshine. We didn’t see a lot of horses but were

assured we were passing through the racehorse capital of the world … and the Bourbon capital as well judging from

all the distilleries advertised along the highway.

A stiff SW wind kicked up in the afternoon. As you might expect, we were heading SW and our mileage suffered

even worse than yesterday. We were up to 19.5 mpg and climbing in the AM, but, once we turned west, the wind

whittled that down to 18.1 by the time we got to the CG. We expect that sort of wind in the plains, but not so much

here. Hey, it is what it is and it’s only money so what the heck? Thanks, Mark.

Our campsite is very nice. It’s immersed in deciduous trees just coming out in leaf and that means Warblers, which

we heard and even saw a couple times. We learned recently that the warblers time their migration with the

emergence of new leaves. We’d always assumed that was for camouflage, but no, it’s much more involved. It seems

moths also time their reproductive cycles so their eggs hatch just as the tender new leaves are emerging. Those

new leaves don’t contain as much bitter tannin as they will later, and the freshly minted moth larvae happily munch

them and grow. And the warblers? They feed on the tender, young moth-caterpillars. It’s the way Nature has knit

together these seemingly disparate life-cycles over the millennia. A few other woodland birds presented

themselves, and they are listed below. There are Tall Phlox flowers and May Apple umbrellas dotting the ground.

We have a view of the lake as well. Very nice, and it is only made better by the warmth that allows us to open

DALAS up for airing. We are also airing out by sitting at the picnic table where we can listen to the birds and even

occasionally see ‘em. Very pleasant … relaxing … Zzzzz …

Ah, but before I sleep, I’ll toast the day with one of Joe George’s gift Hamburg Lagers. Hmmm, it’s pretty good;

wonder if they have it at Beers of the World …

Saw:

A lot more road kill today … mostly the bugs splattered on our windshield. It is certainly spring down here. Great Blue Heron

In the CG:

Blue Jay

Yellow Rumped Warbler

Belted Kingfisher

Double Crested Cormorant

Turkey

Red Eyed Vireo

Tufted Titmouse

Carolina Chickadee

Carolina Wren

Red Headed Woodpecker

Heard Owls, either barred or great horned

Tansy Ragwort

Tall Phlox

May Apple

Poison Ivy

Dogwood

Redbud

Reflect:

Our trip outline is coming to fruition. We’d planned to escape the WNY weather by making a forced march

southward. That was yesterday. Then we hoped to head west, which was today. Those two hard-driving days totaled

nearly 1,000 miles. That is very unusual for us, but it seemed necessary to get through the stuff we’ve done (if not

overdone) and get to more virgin territory. We still have MO & KS to traverse, however. We expect to take US

highways through MO and then start touring in KS, confining ourselves to areas south of I-70. Now if the weather

gets nasty, all those plans may change. We’ll go wherever we must to avoid bad weather. What about CO? Dunno.

We will have to cross the Front Range somewhere – to be determined by weather. Then the virgin territory begins:

northern UT, NV, CA, OR … and back. It’s all an adventure after tomorrow. In the following days, I will reflect on

how we did or did not achieve our plans. Stay tuned.

Ate:

Granola

¾ Sardine Sandwich w/Mustard

Thai Fish Curry w/Mixed Vegetables on Brown Rice

Drive:

End: Canal COECG #8, Gilbertsville KY

Arrive: 3:59

Temp (degrees): 80

Elev (ft): 350

D (miles): 510

Mpg: 18.1

2019.04.17…WED…Day 3: Canal COECG, Gilbertsville KY … to … Crabtree Cove COECG, Stockton MO Up: 5:43 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 67/60/65 Weather: Hazy Sun-PC-Overcast, stiff SW wind

Did:

Hoo-Hoo-Hoo … We were in bed and had just dozed off when a very clear and nearby Hoot started up. That was

followed by another hooter a bit farther away and then a third even more distant. The call & response continued

for a few minutes and either they stopped, or we went back to sleep. We played Owl calls while driving today and

settled on Great Horned and maybe Barred as one of the responders. We’ve never heard that many call/responses

before. Neat.

We perused the weather during morning beverages … dangerous T-Storms expected for tonight thru tomorrow

morning. What! There wasn’t any indication of that in yesterday’s report. It seems a couple lows in the NW are

linking up with a low from the SW and forming yet another squall line that we must deal with. There is no going

around – it’s too extensive; the only thing we can do is stay put and face it in daylight tomorrow. More investigation

revealed that the most severe weather is to the south where the temperatures have been higher. What to do? We

decided to take our chances and drive toward the coming weather … and vector a bit north to get farther away

from the most dangerous part.

Decision made, we fired DALAS up and headed toward Paducah. It turns out we are retracing a route we took

coming back from the SW a few years ago. Although we were immersed in the Paducah morning-rush, we peeled off

before getting to the city and picked up US-60 to cross the Mississippi River. We remember this crossing being a

bit unusual but couldn’t recall why – other than the crossing is N-S on a river that’s supposed to flow in that

direction. Ah-ha, the first bridge cleared up the confusion. It was a bridge over the Ohio River, and a scant mile

later we got a second bridge crossing the Mississippi. We were at the confluence of the two mighty rivers.

There wasn’t much floodplain on the east side of the river, but the west side was a different story. We drove for

several miles with the elevation hovering around 320’. Hmmm, it’s only a 320’ drop from here to the Gulf? Guess so.

Eventually a ridge appeared on the horizon – the western bank of the Mississippi, 100’ above the floodplain. After

the first ridge, the terrain leveled out again – an older floodplain? – before we got to a second 100’ ridge. After

that, we were crossing the northern end of the Ozarks.

We were on US-60 all the way to Springfield MO. We fueled up at a Walmart ($2.67-lowest we saw all day by far)

and took the east loop around Springfield to pick up MO-13 going north toward Stockton MO. Before getting to

Stockton, we turned on a county road that led us to Crabtree Cove COECG. Yep, our third COE; they would all be

COE if we could swing it. We settled on site A1P (for Prime=water view) and paid our $10 rent. The site seemed to

be the most sheltered but … sits in a Walnut grove, and they are about the last trees to leaf out. We will not have

much cover if the storms produce hail.

We took a shower while Terry, the lady attendant, tried to figure out the new registration system. She had a

bunch of prints outs with screen captures and instructions. It wasn’t helping. The CG had just opened yesterday,

and we were among the first to register … and apparently the first to try to pay with a credit card. Janie likes

using credit for records and not depleting our travel cash. After we showered, Terry was still clueless, so we gave

her a ten-dollar bill and got on with our collective lives.

So here we sit, in the continually gusty SW wind, looking out over Lake Stockton’s Crabtree Cove and being

entertained by a variety of birds. Although not as nice as last night, it is still delightful to have these things to

enrich our lives while sitting in comfy 75o weather … while it lasts. I decided to salute the day with a Brooklyn

Brown Ale, making the experience even better.

Saw: Cardinal

Mockingbird

Killdeer (heard)

Brown-Headed Cowbird

Barn swallow

Meadowlark

Bluebird

Summer Tanager

White Breasted Nuthatch

Black & White Warbler

American Goldfinch

Horned Grebe

Common Loon

More Dogwood than Redbud

Lilacs blooming

Violets

Reflect:

Another day of driving too fast on big roads. US-60 is soon to become I-57, only lacking the controlled access of a

true Interstate. There was amazingly little traffic so I could enjoy the scenery while feeling relatively safe tooling

along at 60-65 mph. The day would have been much more enjoyable if we didn’t have the prospect of dangerous T-

Storms in our immediate future. Assuming we survive, we’ll be heading into KS tomorrow with two NWRs and two

cultural stops. Our touring will be starting and none too soon. Lindsborg KS, Lucas KS, Cheyenne Bottom NWR &

Quivira NWR possibly await us.

Ate:

Granola

Jarlsberg Swiss & Nance’s

Mac’n’Cheese’n’Tuna’n’Peas

Drive:

End: Crabtree Cove COECG #A1P, Stockton MO

Arrive: 2:58

Temp (degrees): 77

Elev (ft): 941

D (miles): 376

Mpg: 19.2 (more wind)

2019.04.18…THU…Day 4: Crabtree Cove COECG, Stockton MO … to … Old Mill Museum CG, Lindsborg KS Up: 5:32 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 67/56/65 Weather: Overcast-Partly Cloudy-Overcast-Sunny, all with NW Wind

Did:

We survived the night with only a glancing blow from a passing T-Storm. The raining & blowing was accompanied by

an impressive lightning display but no hail and no damage to trees or DALAS. Yay! However, we did awake to a

strong wind rocking DALAS. It’s KS, so the old RV adage “If this van’s a-rockin’, don’t come a-knockin’” doesn’t have

the usual meaning; the wind will always be rockin’ DALAS in KS.

The day began with some chores: utilities. We really didn’t need to do ‘em, but we may end up in places that don’t

have such amenities in the next couple days, so we decided to do ‘em now while we have the facilities. Chores done,

it was on down the road toward Lindsborg KS. That meant MO-32 north to pick up US-54. Along the way we

stopped at a roadside rest bordering the Toronto Wildlife Area for our Granola. We didn’t see any wildlife, but the

Granola sure was good. US-54 shoots straight across to Wichita KS. We fueled DALAS in El Dorado KS, just east

of Wichita and immediately picked up KS-198, which arched up and around the city. Then it was I-135 north to

where we could get on Old 81 Highway that leads directly into Lindsborg. Ah, finally a little back roading; a welcome

change.

The wind shifted after the front passed. The previous couple days, it has been out the SSW. This morning it was

out of the NW and shifted to due N later in the day. Hmmm, which way were we heading? West and then North, so

we were fighting a stiff crosswind in the AM and a stiff headwind in the PM. Just our luck. Interestingly, our

mileage increased in towns – the opposite of normal. Reason: driving slower where trees and buildings serve as

windbreaks. Back out on the open road, the wind took back everything we’d gained in town … and more. You’d think

we could count on equally strong tailwinds when we start heading home, but our previous experience in this part of

the world doesn’t support that theory. Other than the wind, it was an enjoyable drive. The traffic wasn’t bad, and

the straight roads allowed our followers to pass easily … which they did.

Most of the day was spent in the Flint Hills, AKA Bluestem Prairie. The bedrock consists of interbedded limestone

and chert (flint to the locals). The limestone weathers much more rapidly than the essentially inert chert and

differential weathering is the source of the hills. The Bluestem part is thanks to the native Bluestem Grass that

once dominated this part of the prairie. Currently, the area is becoming increasingly dominated by petroleum

production. We started seeing small pump jacks in eastern KS, and they eventually gave way to much larger ones …

and a couple big refineries. Gotta produce that fuel that we are offering up to the wind. On a more scenic note, we

are starting to see ranches complete with increasingly larger herds of cattle. We will certainly see much larger

ranches with proportionately larger herds as we continue west.

Lindsborg KS, home to 3,500 souls, many of Swedish extraction. From the KS-2007 Trip Log: Shortly before noon, we found ourselves in a miraculous culture warp: Lindsborg KS. It seems back in the days when KS was being settled, a

Swedish land speculator bought up the rights to some acreage in a far-off land called KS – or more likely “The Territories” at the time. He then

arranged for a bunch of Swedes to settle there, and that is what they did. They established a Swedish community pretty much in the middle of

what is now Kansas. The town flourished and is now famous for its Swedish heritage – especially its Dala horses. These colorfully painted wooden

horses are now the town’s logo and the very busy little Hemslojd Gift Shop thrives selling them along with many other Swedish items. Now what

do you have when you put more than one Dala together? Well, you got DALAS. We just had to get a couple for BAWB … who, as far as we know,

invented the term: D(riving)A(round)L(ooking)A(t)S(tuff).

You may be familiar with the painted horses, cows and other animals that have become so popular in towns. Well Lindsborg is no different: they

have a Dala horse on every street corner, each painted differently. We bought a poster showing each of them. You might be interested in some

of the Dala horse’s names: Dalalujah (church), Dalahippus Lindsborgensis (museum), Hello Dala (theater), Yankee Doodle Dala (government

office), Two Bits-Four Bits-Six Bits A Dala (bank), Fala The Dala Brick Road (KS – OZ – Dorothy – Toto, get it?), Dalalama Tellacomma (outside

the phone office), and my favorite, Salvador Dala ( a famous artist whose name I forget – it’s NOT Glenn – has/had a studio in Lindsborg, but

his name didn’t go with Dala in any cute way).

As noted above, when we visited Lindsborg in 2007, we walked the village and stumbled upon a craft shop:

Hemslöjd. That’s where we got Gunter & Terri a Door Harp for their Paradox Ranch. Today, we wanted to revisit

the town to see how it felt after 12 years, and we were especially interested in checking out Hemslöjd again. Our

intention: get wedding gifts for Jason & Jenn and Caitie & Tom (our niece and her guy). That was our first stop. We

picked out a couple Door Harps and waited while Shirley ‘personalized’ them. This was the very same Shirley who

‘personalized’ Gunter & Terri’s. She hasn’t changed a smidge in 12 years. She sits on a stool and paints all the Door

Harps, Dala Horses and other Swedish items that the shop sells. And … she also adds names and/or messages to

any item purchased. When she’s not painting, she’s munching unwholesome snacks. Sitting there painting and

snacking all day would lead you to believe Shirley might become a bit of a toad. You’d be correct.

In 2007, we did our best to find a restaurant offering some Swedish delicacies. No such luck. Again, the KS-2007

Trip Log: By the time we were done, it was lunch time, so we asked the young salesgirl what she was doing for lunch. She was a bit flummoxed by such a

direct and personal question but eventually stammered out an answer: “I had lunch at home before coming to work.” Well, not to be put off with

such a lame excuse, we asked where she lived and where she kept the key … under the flower pot on the front porch maybe. This really confused

her, so I had to ask where we might find a good lunch IN TOWN. She blurted out a name, said it was a block or two down the street, and

promptly started helping another customer. Poor girl, someday she’ll regret not going to lunch with us.

While Janie stashed the loot, I strolled down the street to check out the eatery. Hmmm, the main entries were things like open-face, hot

roast-beef sandwich. They did have some Swedish specialties listed almost as an afterthought, but … as much as I like roast beef sandwiches

with creamy mashed potatoes all slathered in rich, brown gravy, I was really looking for something more ethnic.

Today’s experience was no different. When we registered for the CG today, we asked the friendly lady about

restaurants that might serve Swedish dishes and were informed that the only restaurant that offered an Swedish

food just closed. She did suggest one that might be of interest, so we checked it out. Hmmm, it was basically a bar

& grill offering traditional bar food. Nope, we’ll go back to DALAS and have some peanut butter on crackers, thank

you very much.

This weather is nothing if not changeable. The day began overcast and gloomy. As time passed, it became partly

sunny and then mostly sunny. The afternoon warmth created thermals that resulted in some scattered light

showers. Now … well, I’m sitting in full sunshine with only a few spindly clouds overhead. But there is still the wind

… always the wind. It’s Kansas.

Today’s libation is a Troeg’s Troegenator – introduced to me by dear, sweet Amy Carey. A fitting end to another

good day. Thanks, Amy.

Saw:

Right off the bat we saw three Redtail Hawks, each perched in identical locations on three successive utility poles.

That matches the three we saw in a WV tree. What’s up with these threesomes? The other interesting natural bit

was the abundant and beautiful Redbuds that continue to line our drives. I had no idea they extended this far west.

The other notables are: Great Egret

Cliff Swallow

Yellow Headed Blackbird

Reflect:

Our Interstate driving dwindled down to a five-mile stretch of I-135, necessary to connect two state highways.

Back roading is our game and we got to play it today. Almost all two-lanes passing through multiple little towns, only

a couple with populations in the low 10-thousands. We got to drive through the main streets of the smaller ones and

noted that they all seemed prosperous – no boarded-up store fronts with For Lease signs. Just about every little

town has a village park, and many have public or private camping available. Unfortunately, many of those campsites

are occupied by semi-permanent campers associated with the ever-growing petroleum industry. Each of these little

towns has its own character and it’s interesting to see how they differ.

We didn’t get to Geneseo KS today, but we stopped there in 2007. It was an exception to the prosperous rule. The

census puts the Geneseo KS population at a whopping 267. We didn’t see any of them on our 2007 visit. My notes

tell the story: There are not many places you can walk along main street taking pictures on Saturday afternoon and see more cow pies than people.

That was 2007 … wonder what it looks like in 2019. Maybe we’ll see it tomorrow.

Ate:

Granola

Peanut Butter on Crackers w/Miracle Whip

Kielbasa & Creamed & Regular Corn Mixed together

Drive:

End: Old Mill Museum CG, Lindsborg KS

Arrive: 2:25

Temp (degrees): 66

Elev (ft): 1345

D (miles): 278

Mpg: 18.6 (another headwind)

2019.04.19…FRI…Day 5: Old Mill Museum CG, Lindsborg KS … to … Cheyenne Bottom Wildlife Area, Hoisington KS Up: 6:49 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 53/42/52 Weather: Clear & Sunny

Did:

Oops … we overslept a bit. Oh well, this was a true touring day, so it didn’t make no matter mind. It all started by

going back into Lindsborg KS and picking up KS-4 that delivered us to Hoisington KS where we fueled up before

going to Cheyenne Bottom Wildlife Area. This is an impressive state-run operation that we visited in 2007, and we

spent the rest of the day and night in the refuge. They have a 6-site primitive CG, and we settled in there after

touring the refuge. I read about our 2007 experience in the KS-2007 Trip Log, and it seems appropriate to share

some of that now:

Before setting up camp, we took the auto tour to check out the wilder inhabitants. While traversing the first few miles, we noticed a couple of

recently killed small rattlesnakes. The very next thing we saw was a pickup coming toward us with the driver waving a beefy arm out the window.

He had his wife in the front and about four kids in the jump seat. When I stopped and rolled down my window, he said, “I saw your license when

I passed you a while back. Don’t get out of your vehicle. There are lots of Prairie Rattlers here. I’ve killed most of ‘em, but you need to be

careful.” While he wagged his equally burly tongue at me, I couldn’t help but notice the gold stud stuck in the middle of it. As I processed his

words of advice, I kept wondering how it would feel to have your tongue pierced. Wouldn’t it set up electric shocks when it contacts your

filings? Hey, stick a piece of aluminum foil in your mouth and check it out. What about hygiene? Do you clean that thing or what? The whole idea

is repulsive. Back in what passes for reality, I thanked him for the warning and assured him that we would be careful. I came just short of

telling him how very thrilled I was that he was protecting us from these 6-10 inch rattlesnakes, that he was a personal hero of mine for doing

so, and that he will one day have a plaque erected in his honor on this very spot. But I was actually more focused on his tongue stud. In

retrospect, I really wish I had told him he should have a stake driven through his heart for purposely killing snakes of any kind.

We finished the loop and ended up back at the primitive campground. We had just settled in and started hearing a Great Horned hooting in the

cottonwoods nearby when a beat-up old car with four high-school-age boys drove up. Great, it’s Saturday night, and they got a keg in the trunk.

No, they just got out and stood around the car. Okay, they aren’t going to have a beer party, maybe they are waiting for dark so they can

harvest their marijuana plantation … or trek off to their meth lab. After a half hour or so, they got back in the car and slowly drove by us to

the other side of the camping area. Remember, there are 5 camping sites, so it’s not like this is a huge campground that a young man couldn’t

walk around. They parked, got out of the car and walked off into the surrounding undergrowth. Oh, this isn’t looking good at all. One of them,

the bigger, burlier one was using a battery-powered saber saw to cut up wood. Are they just gathering firewood? Using a saber saw to cut it?

What’s going on here? After another half hour or so, they turned around and slowly drove past us again, parking at the other side where they’d

been before. All this slow driving, what’s that? Are they casing us out? I got out the cell phone to see if we could make a connection, we could; I

punched in 911, and was ready to hit the call button if necessary. Shortly after dark, they got in the car and very slowly drove off. I fully

expected to see them again, later in the night. We took Ambien, locked ourselves in RVan, and kept the phone handy. Next morning, we were still

alone, nothing happened, and we felt kinda foolish. Better to feel foolish than have some kind of incident, I always say.

Okay, back to real time. We didn’t see any snakes today, nor did we see the tongue-studded hero. Let’s hope we

don’t see any teen-aged boys doing strange things tonight … but let’s also hope we hear the Owl.

This was an altogether fine day. The weather was exceptional, thanks to a big high that is passing over. Today, we

were on the eastern side of the high, so the wind was out of the north. Tomorrow, the wind will shift to the south

as the high moves eastward … and the temp will rise accordingly. About half-way between Lindsborg KS and

Hoisington KS sits the not-so-thriving metropolis of Geneseo KS. Janie had written some postcards, so we decided

to see if this Geneseo had a PO. As I mentioned yesterday, we stopped in Geneseo KS in 2007 and were not

impressed. It hasn’t gotten any better in the intervening 12 years. It is truly a dying little town. They do have a PO,

and it was by far the nicest building in town. Some of the other businesses we remembered from 2007 were

boarded up … unfortunately, that included the It’ll Do Saloon. Apparently, it didn’t, and now it don’t.

Our last town for the day was Hoisington KS. It is everything Geneseo is not-very prosperous, neat & clean with

thriving businesses, mostly local but there was a DQ. They also have camping along the edge of the Community

Center parking lot. We checked it out and remembered that we’d done the same in 2007. As in 2007, we decided to

put up for the night in the Cheyenne Bottom primitive CG so we can have morning beverages while watching the

birds.

So here we sit in a grove of big, old Cottonwood trees pretty much like 2007. It’s been a fine day – our first true

touring day. Of the 92 miles we travelled, 22 were on the refuge tour road. We finished the tour loop around 3p

and decided to unleash the bikes. We only got in 8 miles, but those 8 miles were the first of the season … and felt

very good indeed. Everything worked out so well today, I think I’ll reward myself with a nice Beards Serendipity

Porter – thanks to Kurt.

Saw:

We spent most of the day in Cheyenne Bottom Wildlife Area and saw lots of first of trip (FOT) birds. Here they

are in the order seen: Horned Lark

European Collared Dove

White Pelican

Blue Winged Teal

Northern Shoveler (lots)

Green Winged Teal

Swainson Hawk

Mallard

Redhead

Gadwall (aka black butt)

Black Necked Stilt

Marsh Hawk (aka Northern Harrier)

Ruddy Duck (lots)

Bufflehead

Lesser Yellowlegs

Franklin’s Gull

Eared Grebe

Pintail

Snow Goose

Snowy Egret

Pied Billed Grebe

Coyote

NO Snakes

Reflect:

Touring day. We toured Geneseo KS; we toured Hoisington KS; we toured Cheyenne Bottom Wildlife Area … and we

only covered 92 miles in doing it. That’s ever so much better than the marathon drives we’ve been doing. We got to

spend several hours in the refuge and were rewarded with lots of bird sightings … including the requisite White

Pelican afternoon soaring event. They are such graceful birds in the air. I don’t know why they opt to take to wing

and soar around, but it is exhilarating to watch. We also got some good views of Black Necked Stilts with their

shockingly pink legs. Yeah, it was a good day, and we hope tomorrow will be similar when we go to Quivira NWR –

another memory from the KS-2007 trip. Here’s an interesting snippet from that trip log:

About mid-afternoon we arrived at Cheyenne Bottoms State Wildlife Area. They have a geologic explanation for this lowland area that is now a

wetland complex. They say a part of the crust sank, which changed the course of the Arkansas (Ar-Kansas) River. The eroded fault lines are now

exposed as the hundred-foot bluffs surrounding the wetland. Okay, I have a problem with this explanation. How can subsidence cause a stream

to be moved away? Wouldn’t it sorta encourage the steam to flow into the depression? I expect the surrounding crust was elevated, so the

bottoms appeared to subside. It’s all relative, you know, but this interpretation better addresses the deflection of the stream. Whatever,

Cheyenne Bottoms is a large, depressed area that consists of several lakes separated by marshy areas – an attractive wildlife habitat in an

otherwise semi-arid terrain. Thus, it is a magnet for waterfowl, amphibians, and reptiles.

I’m still puzzled, but enjoying the experience nonetheless.

Ate:

Granola

Clementine & ½ Slice Bread

Sesame Chicken w/Mixed Vegetables & extra Peanut Butter on Brown Rice

Bike Data:

Trail: Cheyenne Bottom Wildlife Area, Hoisington KS

ST: 1:50

ET: 3:30

TT: 1:40

BT: 1:12

D (miles): 8.11

Mx (mph): 10.3

Avg (mph): 6.7

Drive:

End: Cheyenne Bottom Wildlife Area, Hoisington KS

Arrive: 4:06

Temp (degrees): 69

Elev (ft): 1819

D (miles): 92

Mpg: 18.1 (wind & refuge driving)

2019.04.20…SAT…Day 6: Cheyenne Bottom Wildlife Area, Hoisington KS … to … Hoisington CC, Hoisington KS Up: 5:41 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 53/44/53 Weather: Sun all day & S wind

Did:

Well, last night was interesting. We didn’t have teenage boys with a saber saw running off into the woods like in

2007 but … we had three much better-behaved boys, each with his own vehicle, tossing a football and snacking on

some unidentifiable stuff. We wondered if they might be the sons of the boys we saw in 2007. The current three

stayed at least until dark but were gone when we got up. We also had a couple other campers: 1. A father & son

whom we saw again today on the tour road, and 2. A youngish couple with Louisiana license plates, both skinny, but

she was rail thin … and a person of color as they say. They had a little dog, no tent and a pot of something that the

guy stirred, added six eggs, and continued to stir for a very long time. I wanted to ask what it was they were

concocting … and to tell him to stir with his left arm for a while to balance things out. I’m sure it didn’t take them

nearly as long to eat as it did to prepare. Soooo, we were not alone and there were no issues other than our RV

batteries being nearly depleted by morning. I guess they are getting weak after nearly seven years of use.

Oh yeah, there was a lot of traffic on the dirt road next to the CG. Lots of pickups going fast and raising dust

clouds. And there was a, let’s say heavy-set, woman tearing up and down the road on her ATV. She’d zip past, do a

loop through the CG pullout, and head back to wherever she came from … but she didn’t stay, rather she repeated

the process ad nauseum. My thought: get off and let the ATV ride … or at least give it a rest. Eventually she did

stop, but it was to join our neighboring teenagers. She then let them run up and down the road on her ATV while

she scarfed down their grub.

We planned to have morning beverages in the refuge, but we got up at o’dark thirty, so we decided to stay put until

there was at least enough light for photography. Then we drove the tour road and discovered that the bright,

morning sun was in our face and not conducive to picture taking. We were about halfway down the tour road when

we decided to take advantage of the remarkable weather and bike again. Let’s ride bikes!

As predicted, the wind switched from north to south and brought more heat and some humidity with it. It will

continue blowing from the south until Monday when it switches back to the north. The high that has provided two

days of perfectly clear blue skies is passing, giving way to the next weather system with north winds and rain. So

what did we do after biking Cheyenne Bottom? We headed south – into the wind, of course – to Quivira NWR to see

what it has to offer: a Trumpeter Swan, but not much else. Clearly, the action is in Cheyenne Bottom, so we headed

back north to Hoisington KS to take advantage of the parking lot camping at the Community Center. We also took

advantage of the showers that were included in our $15 rent payment. The CC is a large, relatively new facility and

serves as the High School Basketball and Wrestling venue. There wasn’t anything going on at the CC today, and the

skeleton staff consisted of one HS Senior who kindly showed us to the showers and unlocked them for our use. All

clean … time to wash the dusty window. Have you ever tried to wash windows in an arid 25 mph wind? You gotta be

quick. You may ask why I took a shower before washing windows, and I’d answer, boy are you nosy! I actually was

washing the windows when the HS Senior came out to say he was locking the building in ½ hour, so we hustled to get

ourselves clean first, then went back to the windows.

Here we sit, both of us lounging on the bed because the cab part is bathed in evening sunshine and too hot to

tolerate. But back here, we have a nice cross breeze, so things are pretty comfy. I’m celebrating the day with a

Southern Tier 2X Milk Stout and intend to give it my full attention right … now …

Saw:

Today we saw many of the same species as yesterday with these FOTs: Spotted Sandpiper

Lesser Scaup

Forster’s Tern

Avocet

Semipalmated Plover

Long Billed Dowitcher

Trumpeter Swan

Reflect:

I’m sitting on the bed, looking out the back windows at an Alfalfa field that extends as far as I can see. It’s the

plains, and it’s flat. There are a few windbreak trees scattered across the view … and a couple working oil wells. I

don’t remember seeing pump jacks in KS in 2007. However, they are certainly abundant now. Some are big, some

are small, but they are almost all pumping away. This is our third day in KS and we are enjoying the touring, wildlife

and biking very much. Two 100-mile days are a welcome relief to the breakneck pace of our first few days.

Tomorrow, we will have been on the road for a week, and when I think back about where we’ve been, I find myself

wondering if that really happened … on this trip … just a few days ago. Were we really in WV, KY, MO? We started

in rain & snow and are now in wall-to-wall sun and warmth bordering on hot. It’s good to slow down and absorb some

of the ambiance – some of the local character. That makes it all the more memorable. But I expect that by next

week I will be wondering if Hoisington KS was on this trip. Such is the life of a vagabond.

Ate:

Granola (very late)

Salmon Steaks w/Coleslaw and Potato Salad

Bike Data:

Trail: Cheyenne Bottom Tour Road

ST: 8:30

ET: 11:00

TT: 2:30

BT: 1:57

D (miles): 13.23

Mx (mph): 10.4

Avg (mph): 6.7

Drive:

End: Hoisington CC #10, Hoisington KS

Arrive: 2:44

Temp (degrees): 88

Elev (ft): 1858

D (miles): 106

Mpg: 18.4

2019.04.21…SUN…Day 7: Hoisington CC, Hoisington KS … to … John Martin SP, Hasty CO Up: 6:31 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 67/60/66

Weather: High Clouds, Clear, Cumulus & WIND

Did:

Last evening, we were entertained by a mass-movement of black birds: Red Wings, Grackle, Starling. It wasn’t in

the class of the Passenger Pigeon but it was certainly the biggest flocking we’ve seen. Stringers of ‘em were moving

NW-SE, and it continued for the better part of fifteen minutes. The sky wasn’t darkened, more like wisps of

smoke. They seemed to be heading to the Cheyenne Bottom refuge. If they all perched in the same area, it will be

well fertilized by morning. Another strange thing occurred last night. We both had dreams about Jason & Jenn.

How weird is that? They were different dreams but clearly about the same people. I don’t recall that ever

happening before.

Good Friday has passed, as has Pretty Good Saturday (thanks to Jason for that one), today is Easter Sunday, the

morning of which I pondered our parking area. We have water right at the site, and I’d checked out the dump

station yesterday: neat, clean and easily accessible. We don’t need to do the utilities but … It took all of 15 minutes

to take on fresh water and dump the gray & black. Done for another few days, unless we opt to do the adult thing

and take advantage of readily available facilities. We are so responsible. We try to not be responsible for doing

anything wrong ... or stupid.

Time to move west. The Hoisington CC borders KS-4, which is what we took out of town before translating over to

KS-96 to continue our westward migration. The driving was great: essentially no traffic, wide road, Plains scenery -

touring at its best. The only issue was, as usual, the wind. It started as a crosswind from the south, then SW, and

ultimately it became a full-on headwind from the west. Right now, as I type this it has again changed direction is

coming from the north, rather savagely. Back to today, we found ourselves ‘drifting’ into the High Plains and

managed to gain some 1,400’ by the end of the day. Nonetheless, DALAS eked out a respectable 20.3 mpg. Makes

me wonder what she’d be getting with no wind … or, as long as I’m fantasizing, a tailwind.

We parked on a side street in Ness City for granola. It was sunny and nice, so we walked around a bit. Just across

the way was a house with some elaborate hedges. Some short & bulbous, others tall, and still others more like a

normal but very wide hedge. After marveling at its beauty, we started wondering how they trim it. The bulbous

ones were longer than a car-length and the tall ones not much narrower. Even the normal hedge was very wide. They

must use a tall ladder … and very long trimmers … and have massive shoulders to hold ‘em. Pretty, but too much

work for me.

The house behind the Hedge House had a double driveway lined with large, colorful, ceramic pots. There were also

some on the sidewalk along the front of the house. A neatly-lettered sign on the garage door read: POTS For Sale

– Only Those In Driveway & On Sidewalk – Call xxx-xxxx For Appointment. Very interesting little corner we just

happened to stumble on.

These little prairie towns are entertaining. Everything is local and often tending to the colorful side. There were

only a couple that had traffic lights, most were just 4-way stops at major intersections – of which there were few.

They all had a water tower of one type or another and an even larger grain elevator. You can see these structures

from far away. And, yes, they are colorful. On the outskirts of one town there was a field filled with rusting farm

implements and a sign advertising Experienced Equipment … we’ve seen lots of rusty equipment but never saw them

identified as ‘Experience’. Sorta captures the imagination, eh?

Today was the first day we’ve encountered people waving to us. The population density is so low that the locals

seem glad to see someone – anyone – even strangers from NY. There were the usual variety of waves: one-finger

flip, hand flip like sowing seeds, and the uncommon flag-wave of pure joy. The casual, one-finger flip is by far the

most common. It’s refreshing to experience any of them; you just don’t see that sort of thing in high population

places.

We also saw miles of Post Rock Fences. The local bedrock splits into slabs used for signs and fence posts. After a

while, we started wondering how they attach the barbed wire to a stone post. Well, one of the little towns we

passed through had a museum addressing that very issue. We didn’t stop, so we still don’t know. As we’ve seen

before, a whole section of the stone posts were adorned with old boots. They’d been there a while and looked

bedraggled, or else the people who wore them had very weirdly-shaped feet. Before leaving KS, we crossed into

Mountain Time. That necessitated a stop to change all our time machines. One more time zone to go. Wonder when

we’ll get there?

We continued to climb up the high plains and after a few miles of CO, we stopped seeing trees – hence the stone

posts – and started seeing some type of Yucca and Sage. There were large expanses of prairie that must look like

the virgin stuff. One of the large sections had a Coyote trotting through. Now all we need is … oh, look, a Prairie

Dog Town. Wonder if that’s where the Coyote is heading. Still no Pronghorn yet, however. Things greened up

considerably when we descended into the Arkansas River Valley. That’s Our-Kan’-sas, not Ar-can-saw’.

The end of the trail today was John Martin SP just a little beyond the non-bustling collection of buildings referred

to as Hasty CO. The river is dammed, and the SP CG occupies a section of the valley below the dam. We pulled into

the Visitor Center (VC, henceforth) and signed up for site #37. It borders a small lake, and we’ve already been

rewarded with a Clark’s Grebe paddling along the shore, within easy telephoto range. Click, click, click, click – 45

pictures later maybe I have a keeper. It’s a little early for my evening libation. I think I’ll close up shop and see if I

can fire off an On The Road report.

Saw:

The High Plains coughed up some FOTs today. We will likely see more if we take a walk around the CG, but for now,

here’s what we got: Great-Tailed Grackle

Weaver Finch

Chimney Swift

Yellow-Shafted Flicker

Chipping Sparrow

Raven

Clark’s Grebe

White Throated Sparrow

Yucca (of some type)

Sage

Prairie Dog (large town)

Coyote (looking for Prairie Dogs?)

Reflect:

Today, I’m going to reflect on camera equipment. As I discussed in the Saturday AMs before we left, I purchased

a second camera body to dedicate to the 200-500 lens I bought last year. I wasn’t using the big lens as much as I’d

like due to the inconvenience of lens changing. I’ve been impressed with the quality of the big lens and clearly need

to use it more. Soooo, I bought a D7500 body that is kept conjoined with it. The last two days in Cheyenne Bottom

was the first trial, and the new system gets an A+. When I got the big lens, I also bought an Ape case for it. The

case is large enough to hold the lens with the camera attached, and the shoulder strap allows me to carry the whole

mess while biking. So we bike along, see something interesting, and I pull my camera & lens out of the case like a

long gun out of a scabbard … and shoot. There’s a bit of awkwardness to it, but nothing I can’t learn to deal with. I

will not be biking long hours with the system, however, so it’s only useful for refuges where picture opportunities

abound.

So how does this 2-body system work? Well, as described, I have the big lens & D7500 in the Ape case slung over

my shoulder. I also have my 18-300 lens mounted on the D7100 and securely tucked into my handlebar pack – within

easy reach. If I’m expecting wildflowers or other up-close-and-personal things, I’ll pack the 40 Macro lens. The 18-

300 isn’t the best quality lens, but its large range makes it useful. Yesterday, I used the 200-500 lens to take bird

pictures at distance, and the 18-300 to photograph an immature Prairie Rattlesnake that was sunning itself in the

road. Yep, this 2-body system seems to be working.

So what about the quality? Last year I got some good results with the lens on my old camera, so I expected to do

at least as well with the new one. So far, I’d have to say the D7500/200-500 camera/lens combination is working

very well. I did some research before we left and learned a lot more about settings and such, so I think that

helped. The big lens isn’t ‘fast’ – can’t justify the cost of that feature - but it is good enough to allow taking what I

call grab shots – handheld, no tri- or mono-pod. Happening onto wildlife is not something that I can plan for, so grab

shots is about all I can expect. I’ll be getting more experience as the trip unfolds – let’s hope it is all good.

Ate:

Granola

¾ Sardine Sandwich w/Mustard

Beef Marsala w/Mushrooms & Onion on Pasta

Drive:

End: John Martin SP #37, Hasty CO

Arrive: 1:42

Temp (degrees): 85

Elev (ft): 3881

D (miles): 261

Mpg: 20.3 (wind & elevation change)

2019.04.22…MON…Day 8: John Martin SP, Hasty CO … to … Black Canyon of the Gunnison NPCG, Montrose CO Up: 5:48 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 58/47/58 Weather: Overcast

Did:

We arose to high clouds which ultimately thickened, rendering the rest of the day overcast. The wind was from the

NE in the AM but switched to the E in the PM. That provided the first helping wind of the trip. That’s the good

news. The bad news … it was blowing at a paltry 10 mph. Hey, it helped DALAS get the best mileage of the trip even

though she had to climb 6,000’ and only back down a little over 2,000’. All of this was accomplished via US-50

nearly the entire day. The towns between Hasty CO and Pueblo were significantly less affluent than those we saw

in KS. The fuel prices steadily increased as we progressed toward Pueblo … until Fowler where we scored $2.95.

But, as we didn’t expect, the prices were lower in the Pueblo environs. Hunh!?

The Arkansas River Valley east of Pueblo is a rich agricultural area. We saw signs advertising Cantaloupe,

Watermelon, Okra and Pinto Beans … none yet available of course. After navigating around Pueblo, we took a side

road to Lake Pueblo SP where we had our Granola. We didn’t eat alone. Just as we were beginning, an Osprey went

winging by carrying its breakfast: a fish held torpedo-style. The sky west of Pueblo was dark and menacing,

obscuring the mountains, but it didn’t take long to see and feel their effect. Just before we started the climb up

to Monarch Pass, we saw a High Wind Advisory sign for high-profile vehicles. Hmmm. We took time to check the

weather … for the fourth time. Monarch CO, the high point, was expecting 10 mph wind. We proceeded, hoping the

weather prediction was more accurate than the warning sign. Turns out it was.

It quickly became evident that we were NOT in Kansas anymore. We’re not even in the High Plains. We are in the

mountains with the objective of punching through the Front Range. We did that at Monarch Pass at ~11,300’.

SNOW … there was still a significant amount of snow on the ground, but none on the road, for which we were

eternally grateful. In fact, it was 65o during our transit. There are still lots of mountains to go around or through,

but most of them will likely not involve such an abrupt elevation change. For example, we drove through the Blue

Mesa Valley and through a couple passes that required 1,000’ change. Along the way, we passed the Dillon Pinnacles

which have this Geologic History:

Tertiary volcanism is responsible for one of the most notable geologic features in Curecanti National Recreation Area. The Dillon Pinnacles

tower above the northern shore of Blue Mesa's Sapinero Basin. The rock forming the pinnacles is called the West Elk Breccia. It formed from a

huge volcanic mud flow (lahar) of ash and volcanic debris that spewed from violent, pyroclastic eruptions in the West Elk Mountains about 30

million years ago.

The West Elk Breccia contains a jumble of angular rock fragments that are imbedded in a matrix of fine volcanic ash and mud. Many of the

larger clastic fragments are more resistant to the effects of erosion and weathering than the soft, mud-ash matrix. These larger rock

fragments provide an "umbrella of protection" against the elements, sheltering the rock immediately beneath it. The result is the mysterious

spire-like form of the pinnacles.

These high valleys are littered with reservoirs that catch and hold meltwater for controlled distribution later. The

ones we passed were still ice covered. Although it was a mushy ice, it was still ice to accompany the surrounding

melting snow. Our destination was Black Canyon of the Gunnison NP CG, just east of Montrose CO. The NP & CG are

2,000’ above Montrose and there is still snow at that elevation. We made the climb and stopped at the entrance

booth to show our Old Age Pass. We also inquired about the camping.

Yep, Loops A & B are open.

What about electric.

Oh, that’s Loop C.

The closed one?

Yeah.

We pulled into Loop A, saw the CG Host’s site, and parked DALAS two spots down from him. We are situated on the

bald crest of a rise with only stunted Gambel’s Oak separating us from the snow, wind and whatever weather might

be coming our way. Other than the host, the only camper we saw was a hearty soul in a small tent – no doubt a young

person. The rest of the CG is essentially empty, although a couple cars have passed by. Just as I was about to

lament the lack of wildlife, a Raven went croaking overhead. I like Ravens … my bike is named after ‘em.

So here we sit, typing up our notes and trying to plan our future adventures. I’m capping the day with a Great Lakes

Porter compliments of Joe George. Here’s to you Joe …

Saw:

Today, we left the High Plains and popped through the Rocky Mountain Front Range. More driving than we’d like but

it was necessary to get where we hoped to camp. Saw a few arid plains things like Cholla, Rubber Rabbitbrush,

Pinyon Pine & Juniper before climbing up to Monarch Pass where we started seeing things like Aspen, Ponderosa

Pine, and wonder of wonders, Mule Deer & Big Horn Sheep. Black-Billed Magpie

Common Merganser

Cholla (with blooms)

Pinyon Pine

Juniper

Rubber Rabbitbrush

Ponderosa Pine

Aspen

Bighorn Sheep

Mule Deer

Gambel’s Oak

Reflect:

We are not in Kansas anymore. No more Plains, be they high or low. We are in the mountains and sitting on top of a

baldy rise with patches of snow still clinging to the ground. It is certainly a radical departure from the terrain

we’ve been in to this point. Ah, but that’s what this traveling is all about - experiencing exotic places. In the past, it

has made us more sensitive to what we have at home. If you spend all your time in one area, it tends to become too

familiar and you lose your appreciation for it. Where we are now is nothing like Naweedna. It’s part of the USofA

but that’s about the extent of the similarity. We’ll be in these exotic terrains for a few more weeks before turning

tail and heading home, which will become progressively more familiar as we proceed.

We’ve made a tentative plan for tomorrow: head to Arches NP. We were there in May 15, 2014 and the place was

overrun with people. There was no place to park and the line at the Visitor Center wound around the outside of the

building. Big signs indicated that the CG was FULL. We took a gander down the tour road and saw that it was

clogged with vehicles. Nope, not for us. We got in DALAS and headed anywhere but there. We’re hoping that things

will be different on April 23 of 2019. We’ll see how it turns out … or maybe we’ll find a nice road and head in

another direction. Are we vagabonds or just silly? Time will tell.

Ate:

Granola

Leftover Coleslaw

Beanie Weenies w/ Onion & BBQ Sauce

Drive:

End: Black Canyon of the Gunnison NPCG #A26, Montrose CO

Arrive: 3:51

Temp (degrees): 56

Elev (ft): 8426

D (miles): 347

Mpg: 21.0

2019.04.23…TUE…Day 9: Black Canyon of the Gunnison NPCG, Montrose CO … to … Ridgway SP, Ridgway CO Up: 5:34 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 51/39/50 Weather: Clear AN – Cumulus in PM

Did:

We made it through our second night of primitive camping (no hookup). Just like the first time, the batteries were

down to 12.1 v. In the past, they would have bottomed out around 12.4. Seems like we are going to need new ones –

cha-ching. No problem, Mark (our financial guy) will pay for ‘em ;-)

There was no cell connectivity, so no paper to read. We did morning beverages and decided to head down the NP

road to have a gander at the Black Canyon of the Gunnison in the slanty, early-morning light. We did the drive in

2014, but it was crowded to the point of annoyance. Today was vastly different. We only saw two other vehicles,

and their occupants were off hiking. It was as though we were alone. We could stop in the middle of the road, look

at a bird, ooh & ahh at the scenery or just stand there with mouths agape staring off into space. We’ve never had

that experience in an NP anywhere, anytime.

The story of the canyon goes something like this: major uplift as a magma chamber pushed upward; the Gunnison

River flowed over the area as it uplifted and formed meanders that later entrenched themselves into the

Precambrian crystalline rock. Sorta like a smaller version of the Grand Canyon story. The exposed, nearly vertical

walls are cut with Granitic stringers, some very large. All of that was essentially ours to enjoy … alone. Aside from

the local rocks, we were offered good views of the snow-covered Western Elk Mountains off to the NE. And then

there were the birds. We got five FOTs during our slow drive on the park road. It was a very enjoyable morning –

one we didn’t expect. Let’s see, I believe that’s called a lagniappe.

Taking a slow, 14-mile drive through the NP consumed most of our morning … and our fuel. We stopped in Montrose

CO to feed DALAS and decided it was time to feed us as well. We were headed to Ridgway CO where there just

happens to be one of our favorite SPs. We’ve been to Ridgway in 2014 & 2018 and stayed three nights each time.

Yeah, it’s that nice. We pulled in and parked at the VC for our morning Granola. While we were eating, a Mountain

Bluebird took a perch in a nearby tree. Hmmm, it’s bluebird weather; we like the park; and it’s bluebird approved.

We looked at each other and said “Hell, I’d Stay” (to paraphrase Dan Hicks). We can set up camp, bike the roads,

look for birds, and see if we can scare up some Mule Deer … oh, there are five right over there. We picked out a

site (#18) and headed to the VC to register. $32 later, we were parked and gearing up for a ride. Seems like a lot,

but when you consider last night was free, we are averaging $16. However … showers are $1 for 4 minutes. Charging

for showers is a pet peeve of mine. Just add the damned dollar to my fee so I don’t have to carry around a roll of

quarters. We took a shower anyway; Mark will pay for it. Oh, look, there’s another bluebird. This one is a Western

Bluebird. Our decision to stay has been doubly validated.

It is shoulder season meaning they are only partially open, they’ll fully open May 1. We opted for Dakota Terraces

where there are three loops. But only A Loop is currently open and that’s where we are parked, along with only two

other campers, and we can only see one of them, our next–site neighbor. She might be our neighbor back east, too,

because her license plate is New York and the vehicle was bought from a Canandaigua dealer. It feels like we are

alone, just like last night. That’s also how we felt on our two bike rides. I don’t recall seeing a moving vehicle either

time. The park is situated in the Uncompahgre River Valley with the Cimarron Mountains to the east and San Juan

Mountains to the south. Most of the mountains are volcanic, associated with more magma chamber uplift. We are

currently facing SE with a good view of the southern end of the still-snow-covered Cimarron range. Ahhhh …

Although there are few other campers, we are not alone. We’ve been visited by Mountain Bluebirds, Chipping

Sparrows, and Black Billed Magpies. They’ve come right to our site, perched in our little Cottonwood, and even

hopped around our pad looking for dropped food bits. It’s getting on into evening, so I’m going to shut this down and

enjoy the rest of my Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout. My head will be swimming by dinner time. Here’s to you. We

hope your day has been at least as good as ours.

Saw:

We got some good FOTs today. The Towhees were active in the AM and provided some good viewing – and listening.

The Scrub Jay was a treat; we’ve had difficulty getting good views of them in the past. This one was a Woodson

variety that we’ve only seen once before (in TX). The Virginia Warbler was a treat … for Janie, I didn’t see it. We

were surprised to see a group of Evening Grosbeaks fly in and perch in a tree right in front of us. We stopped – in

the middle of the road – IDed ‘em and took pictures while watching ‘em plucking berries off the bushes. The

Western Bluebird sort of capped the day for us. Here’s the complete FOT list: Spotted Towhee

Western Scrub Jay (Woodson)

Virginia Warbler

White Throated Swift ?

Evening Grosbeak

Mountain Bluebird

Western Bluebird

Mountain Chickadee

Indian Paintbrush, which we later decided is actually Early Paintbrush

Barrel Cactus (in bloom)

2-Needle Pinyon Pine

Reflect:

Well, this was certainly a grueling driving-day. We covered all of 51 miles and were setting up camp well before

noon. Now that’s living in the fast lane. As I mentioned above, today was a surprise. We’d expected to leave Black

Canyon and head to Arches NP. However, the Black Canyon was there for the taking and we took advantage of the

opportunity. It was great. It seems that planning leads to expectations, and expectations are almost never fully

realized. That leads to disappointment. Our best days are those that weren’t planned, thus, no expectations and no

possibility of disappointment. That’s what happened today. We didn’t expect to spend the morning in Black Canyon.

We certainly didn’t expect to be spending the rest of the day (and night) in Ridgway. It all just happened like

serendipity. We got to take a couple of short bike rides. We got great views of snow-covered mountains. We saw

some new birds. Ohhhh … there’s a Mountain Chickadee right there in the tree by DALAS. We didn’t expect that

either. All good, no bad; and we got a shower.

One more thought. Between sentences, I can look up and see the Cimarron Mountains. There are avalanche scars

that separate patches of trees flanking the jagged peaks. Those peaks rise some 3,000 feet above us and are still

covered in snow. As I look, I find myself wondering what it might be like to be up there sitting under one of those

trees. It would be cold for sure and probably windy as well. In my mind’s eye, and using a lot of imagination, I can

place myself up there looking back at DALAS sitting in a shaft of golden evening-sunlight. Something like that will

never happen in my lifetime, but my mind can conjure up the images and reward me with their effect.

Ate:

Granola

½ Tuna Salad Sandwich

Chicken Gorgonzola w/Mixed Vegetables on Pasta

Bike Data:

Trail: Ridgway SP, Ridgway CO

ST: 11:45 & 3:15 = 3:00

ET: 1:45 & 4:15

TT: 2:00 + 1:00 = 3:00

BT: 1:52

D (miles): 10.77

Mx (mph): 13.7

Avg (mph): 5.6

Drive:

End: Ridgway SP #18, Ridgway CO

Arrive: 10:46

Temp (degrees): 54

Elev (ft): 7047

D (miles): 51

Mpg: 17.5 (NP & SP roads)

2019.04.24…WED…Day 10: Ridgway SP, Ridgway CO … to … Green River SP, Green River UT Up: 5:50 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 51/38/48 Weather: Clear & Warm

Did:

The day began with a trip to the dump station where we did the usual big three plus one (empty our trash). Then we

bid farewell to Ridgway SP, once again, and headed down the commuter-infested US-550 to Ridgway, the town.

There we picked up CO-62 heading west. DALAS climbed out of the Uncompahgre River Valley and crossed 8,979-

foot Dallas Pass. That lead us to CO-145 otherwise known as the Unaweep-Tabegauche Scenic & Historic Byway. A

little translation is in order at this point. Colorado, of course, means colored red. Uncompahgre means dirty water

and Unaweep means canyon with two mouths. It seems two streams carved the canyon and issue forth separately,

thus the two mouths. They claim it is the only such canyon in the world, but I’ll be a little more conservative and

confine it to the US. No matter, CO-145 certainly qualifies as scenic, as does CO-141, which we joined later.

Our last CO road was CO-90, which took us right down the axis of the Paradox Anticline. The core of the Anticline

has been eroded, making a good passageway for the road. We pulled over a few miles short of Bedrock CO for our

Granola … and a long look at the acres, literally acres upon acres, of blue Phlox. The plant is only about a foot tall

and blankets the stream valley. In places, it looked like water. We crossed the CO/UT border shortly after leaving

Paradox. The road number changed to UT-46 but the idyllic scenery continued. Rocks and flowers don’t adhere to

political boundaries.

Except for US-550, all our roads were very user friendly. There was very little traffic, few towns – all vanishingly

small - and great scenery to enjoy. We cruised along at 45-50 mph and enjoyed our tour. DALAS enjoyed it too; she

topped out at 25.5 mpg before we got to US-191 and headed to Moab and Arches NP. US-191 is what I’d classify as

a suicide road, mostly two lanes with too much traffic and a 65-mph limit that is treated as a whispered suggestion.

Fortunately, we weren’t on it too long before arriving in Moab UT … at exactly noon. We drove through Moab

around noon in 2014 and the traffic was bumper-to-bumper. Today was much better. I think we only stopped at two

traffic lights.

It’s a short drive from Moab to Arches NP where we arrived around 12:30. We used our Golden Age Pass to get in

free and decided to take the tour road. Neither of us has ever been in Arches NP. We tried once but found it way

too crowded. It was crowded today, but not as bad, so we decided to give it one last shot. We drove the entire 18-

mile tour road and two of the side roads and finished up around 2 PM. It’s a spectacularly beautiful place with

exotic rock exposures that are especially appealing on clear, sunshiny days like today. The buff Navajo Sst

underlies the reddish Entrada Sst, both Aeolian. The area was elevated by a Salt Diapir, causing vertical fractures

in the overlying rock. Erosion then formed the present-day structures that we all marvel at. The high-angle cross-

bedding lends itself to arch formation … and there you have it: Arches NP. The only issue I had with it all was …

the people. I expect today’s population was small compared to later in the season, but it was just too crowded for

me. All the vehicles & people distract from the natural beauty of the place in my mind. I’m glad we did it, but we

are unlikely to do it again. If we had been able to find a place to park, we would have been in a “parade” of people

walking to the most famous places: Delicate Arch, etc. We didn’t park and we didn’t walk and we don’t regret it.

The Arches area is a mecca for mountain bikers, dirt bikers and ATVers. That translates into full CGs. There are

very few campsites in Arches itself and they are always booked. The next best place is Deadhorse Point SP, which

was also full. We had no option but to get back on US-191 and head to Green River CO, and that’s exactly what we

did. That stretch of US-19 is truly awful. I cranked DALAS up to 60 mph and headed for I-70 with its 80-mph

limit. Again, neither of those stretches were long, and we were delivered into Green River UT around 2:30. There

are some private and one SP CG in Green River. The one private that seemed nice was priced at $40/night. We

passed it and stopped at the Green River SP to see what the tariff was there. Good news: you don’t have to pay the

entrance fee if you’re camping. Somewhat bad news: the campsites are $35/night. Well, that’s better than $40,

besides we’re here so sign us up for #10 and we’ll be done with it.

So here we sit in a copse of Cottonwood just coming out in leaf, typing up our notes as usual. I’m lubricating my

thoughts with a Founders All Day IPA – not bad for an IPA. I’m doing all of this outside in DALAS’ shadow and now

that the Sun is hugging the horizon, I’m getting a little chilly. Time to go inside and get ready for dinner. See ya …

Saw:

Rocks, lots and lots of ROCKS. And those rocks are all involved in a geologic structure of one sort or another. Way

too much going on for us to figure out, so we just focused on the beauty of it all. The blue Phlox ground cover in

the stream valleys was spectacular. From a distance, it was difficult to tell it from ponded water. We were

entertained by several Ravens soaring around pretending to be White Pelicans. Not many FOTs today; just these: Black-Crowned Night Heron

Pronghorn

Phlox

Desert Evening Primrose

Lupine

Reflect:

New territory from here on. Our stated goal for the trip was to visit some places we haven’t been. It’s now time to

do that. It’s daunting when you look at a map and see nearly 100 miles of road and no towns on it anywhere. We’ll

have to be diligent and make sure DALAS doesn’t go below half full. It would be nice to find more quiet, scenic

roads like those we drove today, but that’s always a crap shoot. Our experience helps, but there are always

surprises – and necessary connections on larger roads. Our attitude: we managed to discover good roads and find

interesting sights in the past, so maybe we’ll get lucky and do the same in UT, NV, CA & OR. Janie has a book that

covers the geology and points of historical interest along US-50 as it bisects UT. It’s called Traveling America’s

Loneliest Road: A Geologic and Natural History Tour through Nevada along US Highway 50. We can always fall back

on that if our attempts at discovery don’t pan out. Hey, pan out, a reference to mining, which seems to be a major

activity in UT. Hope we don’t discover that US50 has gotten less lonely since publication of the book in 2000.

Ate:

Granola

Tuna Salad & Cracker

Spaghetti w/Pronto Linguini and as much Romano as good judgement allows

Drive:

End: Green River SP #10, Green River UT

Arrive: 2:49

Temp (degrees): 81

Elev (ft): 4050

D (miles): 245

Mpg: 22.8 (25.5 max)

2019.04.25…THU…Day 11: Green River SP, Green River UT 2 Up: 5:58 Weather: Clear

Did:

It was a slow morning. We weren’t sure what to do, so we did nothing. Well, not entirely nothing. We decided to put

in a camp day, so we checked out the available sites and picked #16 with the hope that our slider side would get

some afternoon shade, unlike yesterday’s #10 when we were facing west. Next came a slow drive through non-

bustling Green River where we picked up some groceries for us and diesel for DALAS. Hey, we haven’t had a brunch

yet; let’s give the Granola a rest and settle in for some French Toast and Bacon. Some birds fluttered in for a mid-

morning snack as well. A pair of Oregon Junco and a small group of Lesser Goldfinch (Greenback variety) busied

themselves eating Dandelion seeds. Hard to believe there’s enough seed there to sustain them, but there certainly

are enough Dandelions.

There is a John Wesley Powell museum in town, and that’s where we spent most of the afternoon. It was

surprisingly elaborate and informative. They even gave Mt Morris NY credit for being his birthplace. They had

replicas of some of the craft that dared the Green & Colorado Rivers. The oldest was called a Bull Boat because it

was made of Bison hide stretched over a network of River Willow branches. It was round and barely able to

accommodate one adult. That was followed by dugout canoes and eventually the wooden craft depicted in old movie

footage. It was all capped off with a replica of Powell’s boat, the Emma Dean, named for his wife. The replica had

an old office-chair attached to the top, which made a curious sight. The accompanying description explained it:

Powell lashed a chair to the boat and instructed his two oarsmen from that relatively lofty perch. It also said that

he read them poetry through the quiet stretches of water. Powell was an interesting man, especially considering he

lost an arm in the Civil War.

Janie had picked up the weekly Melon Vine Grocery ad, which showed La Victoria Thick & Chunky Salsa Verde was

on sale. We’d seen bags of Tortilla Chips baked fresh in their deli during our first stop at the store. Hmmm,

chips’n’dips would be good … and an appropriate reward for doing nothing all day. After all, the sign on the chips

display said “Made Fresh For You”. Off we went to the grocery again. Hey, if we’re getting La Victoria Verdi, why

not Red as well? Time to check out before we succumb to anything else. Oops, not so fast. Janie told the checkout

lady that we can’t find this stuff back in NY. Ha! She’s originally from Rochester and, later, Canandaigua.

Incredibly small world. She asked if we had seen the Fresh Salsa & Pico De Gallo on the table with the “Made For

You” chips. No, we missed that. She said it was just made in the deli and really good. Sold. We walked out with two

jars of La Victoria, a tub each of fresh Salsa and Pico … and a bag of chips with our name on it.

The day was spent contributing to the local economy and our waistlines while soaking up some local culture. The

chips and dips were excellent, as expected. I took some time to prune my beard before we hit the showers. The

original reason for the grocery stop was to procure some salad makings. We are in need of a wholesome, mostly

green meal. Maybe we’ll spice it up with a little Pico. The plan for evening shade at site #16 is working well. That’s

where we are sitting typing up the day’s activities. Like yesterday, other campers are streaming in, most of ‘em

with dogs to walk. Just like yesterday, it’s an extremely pleasant evening … the main difference is … it’s time to

have that salad.

Saw:

While we were enjoying our brunch, Janie, being the birder that she is, saw some activity in the grass. Her

binoculars revealed an Oregon Junco eating Dandelion seeds – yeah, the Dandelions here have already gone to seed.

A bit later, she noticed something yellow also attacking the Dandelions. This is where the big lens and D7500 come

in. I snapped pictures of ‘em that permitted a positive ID. This is the third or fourth time on the trip that the

camera has helped us IDs birds we would otherwise not be certain of. Sure, it’s a Junco, but what kind? Yeah, I

know it’s a goldfinch, but which variety? The system is useful even if I can’t take pro-quality images. Yay! Oregon Junco

Lesser Goldfinch Greenback variety

Western Kingbird

Reflect:

Hey, you Geneseo Geology types, we are in Green River UT and parked within a hundred yards of the river. Last

evening, we walked down to check it out and I was close enough to piss in it – like so many of you had threatened to

do. Oh, those Geomorph projects. They were so difficult and time-consuming but look what you got out of it: a

quality education and some serious bonding with your fellow suffering-companions. What seemed so daunting at the

time, turns out to be a life-long reward. That seems to be the way with so many things.

And that brings me to one of my life observations. I don’t know about you, but I tend to remember stressful times

more than gleeful, happy-go-lucky times. The stress seems to make a more indelible impression. I suppose that’s an

evolutionary relic. Our ancestors had to remember the dangerous and stressful times to avoid them in the future

and thereby increase the possibility of survival. And that less stressful survival leads to happy-go-lucky times, so it

all comes back to the same thing. Being a human animal is a never ending joy.

Ate:

French Toast & Bacon w/VT Dark Maple Syrup

Tortilla Chips, Fresh Salsa & Pico De Gallo (all from Grocery Bakery)

Salad

Drive:

End: Green River SP #16, Green River UT 2

Arrive: 3:30

Temp (degrees): 84

Elev (ft): 4050

D (miles): 18

Mpg: 15.9

2019.04.26…FRI…Day 12: Green River SP, Green River UT 2 … to … Sam Stowe CG, Fremont Indian SP, Sevier UT Up: 6:37 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 65/58/64 Weather: Clear-Clouds-Rain

Did:

The day began with a sprint down I-70 to pick up UT-24 heading S & W. The very first thing we came to was the

San Rafael Swell. Oh my, another uplift folding sedimentary rock to a steep angle with erosion cutting myriad big &

small canyons through the exposed material. The result is a series of triangular rock-slabs of Navajo Sst reaching

for the sky. Shortly after that came the significantly less awesome Hanksville UT were UT-24 headed more

westerly into territory we’ve never traveled. The rest of the day was all new to us. The thrill of discovery was

somewhat tempered with the anxiety of finding a campsite on a Friday, but everything turned out just fine. Why do

we stress so much? We need to follow Alfred E. Newman’s What Me Worry philosophy more.

We were driving through what could only be described as Big Country. The breadth was partially the work of the

Fremont River, which we followed upwards toward some of its must magnificent handiwork: Capitol Reef NP.

Unfortunately, Capitol Reef was a lot like Arches in terms of the people. We muscled our way through and took the

10-mile tour road – and back. The scenery was too spectacular to comprehend. The current creation myth goes

something like this. Some 250 MYA an ocean encroached onto the land and deposited Lst & Shale in shallow water.

The coastal region was arid and massive sand dunes formed – really big ones it seems. Equally extensive swamp and

fluvial deposits followed. This was a truly impressive amount of material, nearly 10,000’ thick. Between 50 & 70

MYA, an old fault was activated, and the western part of the area was uplifted some 7,000’. The sediment bent

rather than broke, forming a large Monocline that was later eroded to form what we call Capitol Reef today. Ta-da.

QED for Ma Nature.

Right in the middle of the Capitol Reef NP sits what’s left of a Mormon pioneer fruit-growing settlement

appropriately named Fruita. The NP has preserved or reconstructed many of the old structures, and some fruit

trees, or their descendants, are still producing. We pulled into the picnic area for our Granola and met up with a

couple ancients dating back to the first settlement: two very old, very large Cottonwoods. We’ve never seen such

gnarly old Cottonwoods. One of ‘em had a big branch broken off and we were reminded of John Wesley Powell with

his missing limb. You’ll have to look at the pictures to full appreciate their grandness. The entrance to Capitol Reef

NP sits under a 1,000’ foot wall of Aeolian Sst. That means there was an even greater thickness of sand dunes

before compaction and erosion. That’s a lot of sand … and wind.

Time to move onward and try to find a place for the night. We climbed to Summit Pass at 8,406’ where there were

still some bachelor drifts in the shady areas. The descent into the next valley took us to Richfield UT, the biggest

town we’ve been in for a while. I fueled DALAS while Janie searched for possible campsites. She zeroed in on an

apparently little-used SP just two exits down I-70. It didn’t seem far but exits here are much farther apart than

back east. We didn’t want to go there and find it full, so Janie called and talked to a friendly young lady who said

there were plenty of sites in the primitive CG and … let me check … yeah, two still open in the CG with hookups. Off

we go, zipping down I-70 at 65 mph into as stiff a headwind as we’ve experienced. Down goes the mileage, up pops

the sign: Fremont Indian Museum SP next exit. We had to drive past it and take an access road back, but when we

did, we found a very nice, refreshingly quiet SP. The young lady was correct, there were two unclaimed sites and

now there’s only one. After paying our $25 dues, we headed back to the Museum to learn all about the Fremont

People.

Not a lot is known about the Fremont Culture, and nothing was known about it here until the construction of I-70

began. The highway engineers had identified 4 large hills of easily excavated material and planned to use it as fill

for the roadbed. Whoa! The top of one hill was littered with abandoned Fremont dwellings and hoards of artifacts.

A bit more investigation revealed a large concentration of Petroglyphs etched into the vertical Volcanic Tuff

comprising the canyon walls – a greater concentration than anywhere else in UT. The museum offered us a movie

about the history and cultural information about the Fremont People. It seems the canyon was occupied from about

400 to 1300 AD at which point they up and left for reasons unknown to anybody but themselves. That’s two

museums in two days and both were informative. I preferred the Indian one; it made up for the lack of Native

American material at the John Wesley Powell Museum. Together, they covered the natives and explorers of the

region.

The afternoon wind blew in some T-Storms to boom and echo around the canyons. We experienced what passes for

rain here in the semi-arid west – about ten episodes of 50 raindrops over ~10 minutes. I think I only ran the wipers

twice. However, we are camped next to a small mountain stream that’s issuing from a narrow canyon. We’re hoping

the 50-drop rain doesn’t increase just to impress us easterners. It’s a very nice CG that’s full but doesn’t feel that

way. We are boxed in by tall expanses of Tuff that extend back and disappear in an ever-narrowing canyon. It’s the

WEST, y’all.

Saw:

Anticlines, Monoclines, Unconformities, High-Angle Aeolian Cross-Bedding, Ripple Marks, Limestones, Sandstones,

Shales, Volcanic Tuff, Scoriaceous Basalt, Petroglyphs … and an equal number of other things we didn’t list. But no

FOTs in form of living creatures.

Reflect:

Today I’m going to reflect on rocks. As we used to tell our students, rocks are the pages of Earth History. More

often than we’d like, that history is difficult to read, but the information is there nonetheless. I found myself

thinking about the history written in the rocks I saw today. The 10,000’ of sediment deposited in the Capito Reef

area was what set me off. Let’s just focus on the Aeolian Sst. Once you deal with the massive nature of the

deposit, it’s time to contemplate where it came from. Each of those billions and billions of sand grains originated in

another rock somewhere. They may even have been derived from the erosion of even older rocks – second or third

generation, if you will. But let’s keep it simple and only consider one generation. What must the area have looked

like back when those sand grains were being eroded from their source rock and transported to the sand dunes?

What was that ancient geography? And what about the flora & fauna that inhabited the area? I don’t know nearly

enough to answer these questions. I can’t even conjure up a believable lie. The only thing I can say for certain is it’s

all mind boggling … and humbling … extremely humbling.

Ate:

Granola

Chips, Green Salsa & Pico De Gallo

Half Kielbasa & Half Chorizo w/Potato Salad

Drive:

End: Sam Stowe CG, #SS7 Fremont Indian SP, Sevier UT

Arrive: 2:40

Temp (degrees): 74

Elev (ft): 5809

D (miles): 210

Mpg: 19.4 (I-70 w/Stiff Headwind)

2019.04.27…SAT…Day 13: … Sam Stowe CG, Fremont Indian SP, Sevier UT 2 … Up: 6:28 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 51/39/51

Weather: Clear

Did:

We awoke to a gorgeous day. A Canyon Wren was trilling back in the canyon recesses, a Raven was sitting on a rock

spire and croaking the morning, a pair of Say’s Phoebes were bugging across the way … hmmm, this place is pretty

nice. Let’s scrap whatever plans we had and stay here. Another Hell, I’d Stay Day. After morning beverages, we

drove down to the VC/Museum where they have handouts with descriptions of the 16 stops along the road and

trails that head off into various canyons from them. Then it was back to Sam Stowe CG to pick out a campsite …

#2 looked perfect … pay the Iron Ranger his $25, mark the site and get on with the day’s adventure. But first,

look at the Broad-Tailed Hummingbird trying to get nectar out of our taillights.

We systematically did all 16 stops and read all the handouts, which were very well written and packed with

information. We whiled away the entire morning looking at stuff and taking short hikes back to even more stuff.

Most of it was about the many Petroglyphs, but one was a well written description of the geology. Here’s my

summary: 19 MYA there was an active volcano 12 miles SW in what is now the Tushar Mountains. It was one of

those explosive, Rhyolitic volcanoes coughing up repeated surges of Ignimbrites that flowed down existing valleys,

one of them was the ancestral Clear Creek Valley where the SP now resides. Repeated eruptions piled up over 600’

of Tuff, now exposed in the canyon walls. Any living thing in the path of such flows would have been cooked

instantaneously. Think Pompeii. When the eruptions ceased, the volcano collapsed forming a caldera that may (or

may not?) be Mt Belknap. Recess; the Geology lesson is over for today. Don’t smoke ‘em even if you’ve got ‘em.

This place is loaded with Petroglyphs. We have several along the cliff face that bounds our campsite … and they

aren’t listed anywhere. The same is true for many of the ones that are listed. If you look around, you’ll see others

not formalized in the descriptions. One of the questions most asked is how did the Fremont people chip these

images so high up on the cliff faces? The brochure suggests they climbed on boulders that have since mass wasted

down slope. Of course, I have my own theory. They lived in Pit Houses dug into the valley sediment and used ladders

to get in and out. The Pit Houses provided good shelter from the severe weather in the area. Let the winds howl,

we’re secure in our cozy hole in the ground. You know, given the increasing severe weather today, we may all be

living underground. So back to my theory … the Fremont people certainly had mastered ladder technology, so maybe

they just used ladders to reach those high, rock-faces. Whatever, the whole place is like a series of billboards

depicting hunting scenes, maps of important places, warriors, prey animals (mostly Big Horn Sheep) and enigmatic

religious symbolization … just like billboards today.

Whew! By noon, we were getting hungry, so we pulled into the Centennial Picnic Area. Hmmm, a little late for

Granola; we have tomatoes that are ready; let’s have a Cheese, Lettuce & Tomato Sandwich (CLT) … a whole one

each. Yum! After lunch, we did the rest of the designated stops and ended up back at the VC. There are several

trails that take off from the VC parking lot and that’s what we did for the rest of the afternoon. A couple of them

climbed up to viewpoints where the entire Clear Creek Canyon is visible. The double ribbon of I-70 is a little off-

putting, but everything else rendered it relatively insignificant. It was 4 PM when we finished the trails, and time

to head back to camp and get a much-needed shower. What! $1.25 for 4 minutes. We tried to foil the system by

sharing the same shower – you lather, I’ll rinse, reverse – but ended up paying $2.50 anyway. We got to shower

together; that was a bonus.

Time for the rest of our chips’n’dip before settling in our record-keeping routine. I’m capping this exceptional day

off with a nice Southern Tier 2x Mild Stout and I’m going to start giving it my full attention … now.

Saw:

It was a four Wren day: House, Canyon, Rock & Bewick’s. That’s the first time that’s happened. We got several

other FOTs, including a Black Throated Gray Warbler. Not a life bird, but a rarely sighted one. The place was alive

with Butterflies. We could only identify two - Red Admiral & Painted Lady – but there were lots more fluttering

around in the bushes and lapping up nectar from their tiny flowers. Oh yeah, we also saw lots and lots of rocks. Say’s Phoebe

Hairy Woodpecker

Canyon Wren

Rock Wren

House Wren

Bewick’s Wren

Red Shafted Flicker

Broad Tailed Hummingbird

Black Throated Gray Warbler

Northern Sagebrush Lizard

Golden Currant Bush in bloom

Reflect:

Days like this happen when you don’t plan, or if you do, you don’t follow your plan. We didn’t know about this place

until yesterday. Our perusal yielded positive results. There are lots of things to do. The riparian habitat provided

by Clear Creek (which isn’t clear at all but a muddy torrent at present) should provide good birding. It quickly

became obvious that we should carpe diem and stay here another day/night. We secured our campsite early and got

the very best one. The place is now packed but, just like last night, it feels like we are alone. We’re spending a lot

more time in UT than expected, but it’s been working for us so far. We’re just seizing the days as they are

presented to us.

Remember those l-o-n-g driving days of the first week. Well, we have certainly settled back into our normal touring

mode. Today may be a record. We only drove a total of 9 miles. But we hiked 6, so even if you add that in, we only

covered 15 miles. Now that’s a real touring day I’d say … and I just did.

So how is it that a 75-year-old man and 68-year-old woman can just hop out of the vehicle and hike 6 miles, up and

down, over and under at altitude without suffering? Exercise, that’s how. Hiking 6 miles really isn’t a big deal but

doing it in this terrain and not being stiff & sore afterwards is a big deal. I’ll admit I took it slow on the climbs; I

did feel the effects of altitude. Whatever, we did it and were richly rewarded for the experience. Onward!

Ate:

Cheese/Lettuce/Tomato Sandwich

Green Salsa & Chips

Pears & Apricots w/Graham Crackers

Hike Data:

Trail: Fremont Indian SP Trails

ST: Several trails all day

ET: Ditto

TT: Ditto

D (miles): 6

Drive:

End: Sam Stowe CG #2, Fremont Indian SP, Sevier UT

Arrive: 3:47

Temp (degrees): 78

Elev (ft): 5809

D (miles): 9

Mpg: 12.4

2019.04.28…SUN…Day 14: Sam Stowe CG, Fremont Indian SP, Sevier UT 2 … to … Willard Bay SP, Willard UT Up: 6:57 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 57/49/57 Weather: Clouds & PM Wind

Did:

We reluctantly drove down UT-4 away from Fremont Indian SP. Eventually we were delivered to US-89 which we

took north and picked up a series of other state roads before getting to Manti UT. The morning drive was very

pleasant. Sunday in a religious area meant the roads were barren of traffic, and there were the added benefits of

great scenery and a tailwind. DALAS’ mileage soared to over 24. Manti UT is in the San Pitch Valley, bounded by

the Wasatch (E) and Gunnison (W) Mountains. We pulled into the Manti City Park for Granola and a slow gander at

the surroundings. The valleys we’d passed through were heavily agricultural with large crop fields and pastures for

both cattle and sheep. The towns, or cities as they prefer to call ‘em, were clean, neat and economically healthy.

Manti was the crown jewel of the day.

After Manti came Ephraim UT – a historically significant place for me. This is where OSU holds (held?) its geology

field camp that I attended a scant 50 years ago. More about Ephraim in the Reflect section. We eventually got to

the intersection with US-6 and things changed very rapidly. We had to wait a few minutes to find a gap in the

traffic so we could join the crowd. Then it was another of those driving-too-fast gauntlets on a two-lane highway –

basically 65 mph in nearly bumper-to-bumper traffic. I found myself looking forward to I-15 where at least we

wouldn’t be facing things head-on. Once we were on I-15, we were treated to over 100 miles of urban blight. First it

was Provo, then Orem, followed closely by Salt Lake City, Ogden, and finally Brigham City where our exit dumped us

into a relatively quiet, rural setting. The nearest town was Willard UT, but we went the other way to Willard Bay

SP where we paid $40/night for a full hookup campsite. It’s a price we are more than willing to pay because it’s just

a short drove over to Bear River NWR where we hope to spend tomorrow and maybe the next day.

The first time I remember hearing about Bear River NWR was from Brian and/or Amy lauding it and the birds that

frequent the place. Since then, others have said good things about it, and we’ve now gone through urban hell to get

here. Driving 70 mph through that series of towns is insane. It was fortunate we did it on Sunday. There were

several indications that traffic would be much more worser on weekdays. For example, entrance ramps have traffic

lights with signs forbidding more one vehicle entering per green light cycle. One! We don’t have issues like that on

Crossett Road – yet. I assume the traffic is heavy because these cities are in a narrow causeway bounded by Great

Salt Lake on the west and the majestic Uinta Mountains on the east. It reminded me of the Columbia River corridor

heading to Portland OR. In a day or two, our big challenge will be finding a way out of here that doesn’t involve

backtracking.

It is cool. All afternoon we were buffeted by a stiff NW wind ushering in colder air. It was only 55o at 3:30 and

that doesn’t include the wind chill. After setting up, we took a little walk along some CG trails to check out the local

sights & birds. We dressed as we would for a walk around Naweedna in early spring or late fall. It was worth it,

however. WE needed to get out of DALAS and let her and us have some time apart. We scored a few FOTs and got

familiar with the lay of the land. Tomorrow we hope to see much more wildlife. As for now, we’re sitting in the

evening sun and doing our evening chores. I’m celebrating today’s safe passage with one of Joe George’s Great

Lakes Edmund Fitzgerald. Thanks, Joe.

Saw:

Way too much Interstate traffic and urban blight. It served to enhance the memories of yesterday’s adventure

and this mornings drive. However, we did get some FOTs … none of them while on I-15. Golden Eagle (2 Im)

Cedar Waxwing

Western Grebe

Song Sparrow

Violet Green Swallow and Rough Winged Swallow were determined during brief stops without big lens/D7500 pictures. Later, we saw many more

swallows, none of them could be called Violet Green or Rough Winged, so we are backing off of those identifications.

Reflect:

Let’s see, I mustered out of the Army in 1969, returned to OSU in continuing education while trying to get into

OSU’s Geology Department. My undergraduate degree was in Physics, and I’d never had a geology course. I took all

the required undergrad geology classes in 1.5 years, and that qualified me to attend OSU’s field camp based at

Snow College in Ephraim UT. The little I knew about geology was book-learned, theoretical stuff. The real thing,

with real rocks, and complicated structures was, well, eye opening. It was an 8-week camp during which I learned a

great deal. I haven’t been back to the area since.

We took a slow jaunt through Ephraim and the Snow College campus. I recognized the surrounding terrain much

more than any of the cultural aspects. Human things change a lot in 50 years, rocks are significantly more

permanent. The Wasatch was still mantled with snow as was Mt Nebo at the north end of the valley. I’m sure

Skyline Drive that runs along the crest of the Wasatch was still snowbound. I recall it being that way on July 4,

1970. The one thing I recall most vividly about field camp was the structures. Well, that and a lot of fun with some

of the other participants, but that wasn’t true geology. Oh, wait, geology and fun go together. Anyway, one of our

last field days was spent in the too-hot San Pitch Valley, which we’d avoided as long as possible. We were working

on Singer Hill, so named because there was an old Singer sewing machine perched on top. Hmmm, this looks like a

fault, a very low angle fault. Aren’t they call trusts? Gee, there are slickensides and all. But wait, the sedimentary

structures suggest the beds are overturned. How can that be? An upside-down thrust? We puzzled over this for a

long time but finally convinced ourselves that it was true. Now that we knew the what, we needed the how. It turns

out that the San Pitch valley was one of those salt diapirs. Their tops tend to be bulbous, and we were looking at

the rocks that were folded back on themselves in that bulbous part. No, we didn’t figure that out by ourselves; the

faculty had to give us some hints before the light bulb lit. Ah, those were heady times. And I’m not talking about

the beer. We had to use our heads.

One last reflection. Today was vastly different from yesterday – Alpha/Omega, if you will. As we drove through

the blather of asphalt and box stores between Provo and the SP, we kept asking ourselves: What were we doing

yesterday this time? Hiking in the relative wilds of Fremont Indian SP is vastly different from driving headlong

down I-15 surrounded by people in a hurry to get somewhere and do something. We are included in that group

because we were in a hurry to get off the Interstate and parked in a peaceful SP. A price must be paid to get to

where you want to be, and we paid our dues today.

Speaking of price, we’ve come up with a new Trip Saying. Mark, our financial guy, keeps telling us to spend more

money. At our last meeting, he blurted out: “You are looking at a million-dollar funeral.” At that point he started

telling his assistant to sell this and that and have it transferred to our savings account. Okay, Mark, we’re spending

your (our) money. Whenever we have a choice between searching out a lower price for something or buying an item

that we want but would normally pass on, we say, “Let Mark buy it.” Relative to our past, we are spending more

freely because … “Mark’s paying for it.”

Ate:

Granolao

Drive:

End: Willard Bay SP #50, Willard UT

Arrive: 3:22

Temp (degrees): 55

Elev (ft): 4241

D (miles): 247

Mpg: 21.5 (24 before I-15 & stiff headwind)

2019.04.29…MON…Day 15: … Willard Bay SP, Willard UT 2 … Up: 6:22 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 53/45/51 Weather: Overcast

Did:

Well, we had quite a day … a hippo bird day … in the Bear River NWR. It is a large refuge with a 13-mile access road

and a 12-mile auto tour. The access road was about as productive as the tour road. We drove it all at an alarmingly

slow pace – very different from yesterday’s Interstate racing – 20 mph cruise control. Even that speed became too

fast. The place is a patchwork of grassland, lakes, canals, pools & playas all of which add together to make several

different species happy. We crept along, stopping frequently to ogle something, most of the time with DALAS

idling. That makes for low mileage but high (s)mileage. Places like this bring us great joy. We had our Granola in the

company of a hoard of Tree (not violet green) & Cliff Swallows (not rough winged). They perched on any available

surface, affording us some good views that we can’t normally get when they are darting around above our heads.

The entire day was spent looking at birds, IDing what we could and taking 130 pictures of those that sat still long

enough. Again, the camera system is working better than expected (or feared) and is proving increasingly useful

for identification. Even a blurry picture is better than our unreliable memories when it comes to looking things up in

our books after the fact. Not only can we not remember what we saw, we can’t look at all parts of a bird at the

same time, or now which parts of a bird are the diagnostic parts. But the camera makes a permanent record of

features we didn’t know to look for.

We called it a day around 3 PM and headed to Brigham City on the other side of I-15. This is a nice town. It sits on

an alluvial fan at the base of the Uintas, or their snow-covered foothills. A sign in the refuge told about ancestral

Lake Bonneville. At its maximum, the refuge, and most of the surrounding terrain, was under 1,000’ of water. It

said you could see the lake terraces on the mountains to the east. As we drove to Brigham City, we could clearly

see the benches – once we knew to look for ‘em. Bonneville was a large body of water; large enough to leave behind

Great Salt Lake and the even larger salt flats.

So why did we go to Brigham City? Well, because it was close and … there’s a place mentioned in the 500 Things To

Eat Before It’s Too Late book. In this case, it was Idleberry Pie served at the Idle Isle Café (since 1921) right

there on Main Street. Just like in the movies, there was a parking space right in front of the place. We tied

DALAS up there and went inside where we met up with Hillary who told us all about the place and, of course, the

pies. We opted for a piece of Idleberry (Janie) and Apple (me), both topped with homemade Whipped Cream, which

in turn was topped with a swirly stick referred to as a Pirouette (in French, and a bunch of other names in other

languages). We got ‘em to go, and they will be tonight’s dessert, just or otherwise. Ah, but we were not done with

the Idle Isle. There is also a confectionary across the street called Idle Isle Fine Candies. Janie ambled over to

check it out and came back with a box of Almond Butter Toffee and a couple of free samples as a thank you for her

(Mark’s) generous tip.

All this food talk is making me hungry. I think I’ll close now, finish my Stella Artois, a gift from JenO, and get

ready for dinner. Chow … literally … Ciao … Italianately.

Saw:

It is a NWR, and we expect to see lots of things. We kept track of today’s sightings and tallied 51 species for the

day. Fourteen of those were FOTs. We’ll go back tomorrow and see if we can scare up any more. The one living-

thing we saw the most of was Midges. There were hoards of ‘em hovering around and landing on DALAS. When we

looked down the road, we could see a curtain of ‘em on each side. They appeared like black plumes extending up 10

or 20 feet. Fortunately, they don’t bite and didn’t come in DALAS when the window or door was open. Well, maybe a

few got in, but not many. Cinnamon Teal

Tree Swallow

Ring Necked Pheasant

Long Billed Curlew

American Wigeon

Willet

Red Breasted Merganser

Loggerhead Shrike

Sandhill Crane

Marbled Godwit

Marsh Wren

Caspian Tern

California Gull

Ring Billed Gull

Midges (clouds of ‘em)

Reflect:

A day in a refuge is just what we needed after yesterday’s 100-mile ode to human excess called I-15. The quiet

simplicity of water, marsh, grass and playa brought us great joy. We put our window mount and big Swarovski

telescope on Janie’s side for better IDing. Even with the widow down and me opening the slider door to snap

pictures, very few of the many, many, many Midges got inside. The Midges feed the fish and some of the birds, and

the fish feed even more birds. Once the exhilaration of initial discovery abated a bit, I started getting sleepy, err,

I mean, relaxed. This happens whenever I spend time in a quiet, natural environment. It’s a testament to the

relaxing aspect of Nature. We humans are part of the natural world and generally feel more comfortable in it than

being immersed in the synthetic world in which we tend to incarcerate ourselves. At least that’s the case for us.

Sure, we wouldn’t have DALAS or the fancy optics or bikes or computers or … all those other things we possess …

if it weren’t for the synthetic world from which they come. But the fact remains that natural settings are

necessary for our wellbeing, and there are just too few of those places left. To state the obvious: we need more

soul-soothing natural spaces for us and wildlife to thrive in.

Sign me up for another day. We’ll be spending three nights and two whole days here for the tune of $120, FREE

showers. No problem, Mark’ll pay for it.

Ate:

Granola

Swiss Cheese Snack

Knorr Pasta Sides Parmesan w/Costco Sardines & Mixed Vegetables (a waste of good sardines)

Idleberry & Apple Pie w/Homemade Whipped Cream & Pirouette

Drive:

End: Willard Bay SP #50, Willard UT

Arrive: 4:04

Temp (degrees): 55

Elev (ft): 4214

D (miles): 58

Mpg: 15.6 (NWR & I-15)

2019.04.30…TUE…Day 16: … Willard Bay SP, Willard UT 3 … Up: 6:14 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 54/43/51 Weather: Clear – Overcast, Blustery, Sprinkles

Did:

So there we sat, slurping our morning beverages and reading the paper when a pair of Gambel’s Quail came

strutting down the trail next to our site. They are so cute; like an old couple out for their morning constitutional.

Big difference: this pair would stop and peck at a morsel on the ground; I hope we old humans don’t have to resort

to doing that.

We headed back to the refuge with the intention of biking the tour loop. It was cool but sunny when we arrived,

but that didn’t last long. Ominous clouds were filling the western horizon by the time we finished our Granola and

geared up to ride. It became a bit of a race to get the ride in before the cloud bank dumped whatever passes for

UT rain on us. Once we reached the halfway point, we were committed to finishing it regardless of the weather.

Oh, that last turn into the wind was, shall we say, bracing. It was 48o with a North wind made all the stiffer by

adding our bike speed to it. Yeah, but it’s a DRY cold, right? It was a bike ride as well. We needed to get out and do

something and this was our best option. Hell, it’s been a week since the last ride; it was time.

It was a good thing we did our birding yesterday. The birds were more flighty with us on the bikes in our colorful

jackets compared to yesterday in DALAS. The only new thing we saw on the loop today was a bunch of

unidentifiable Peeps. However, there were NO Midges. I guess the cold and wind kept them nestled in the reeds.

We are still finding the occasional Midge from yesterday’s adventure. They are easily dispossessed of life to

become Smidges or Smudges, as Janie refers to ‘em. On the way out of the refuge we were treated to a rare

sighting that I will save for the Saw section.

We reluctantly (sob) drove out the access road at a steady 20 mph – DALAS’ lowest cruise setting. There is an

Education Center at the entrance, and we spent some time there. It was primarily designed for kids, but we got a

little education as well. Right off the bat we learned that the Air Boat was invented on the refuge. There was an

outbreak of botulism, and they needed a way to get to the distressed birds easily and quickly. They bought a $95

used airplane-engine, rigged it up on a flat-bottom boat and history was made. They’d requested funding from

Washington DC, but it was not well received. The tongue-in-cheek replay came back: go to Louisiana, catch a ‘Gator,

put a saddle on it, and use that to get around in the marshes. Typical bureaucratic response to a practical problem:

no solution. An Air Boat, who ever heard of such a thing. Why, that’s almost like thinking you can turn matter into

energy.

We drove back through Brigham City and took US-89 to UT-315 which delivered us directly to Willard Bay SP …

without having to go on I-15. That stretch of US-89 is lined with orchards and associated fruit stands. None of

them were in operation at this time of year, but in season, it’s referred to as Golden Spike Fruitway. The Golden

Spike refers to THE Golden Spike that finished the Transcontinental RR, just 30 miles west of Brigham City. This

is the Sesquicentennial year, and next weekend they are having a BIG celebration to commemorate the event.

Damn, we will miss it.

We have taken refuge from the wintery weather by spending some quality time in DALAS typing up notes and

getting ready to send out another On The Road report. After that it’s study time. We need to come up with some

sort of plan for tomorrow … and beyond. As it stands now, we will not take I-15 south through the 100-mile

corridor of congestion that solicits an “ugh” even from locals. Our only alternative that doesn’t involve dirt roads is

I-15 north … unless … we can piece together some smaller roads, but only if they are paved, to avoid at least some

of that. Wish us luck.

Let’s see, we had a bike ride today; think I’ll celebrate with a Southern Tier 2x Milk Stout … see ya …

Saw:

Well, we saw a lot of our friends from yesterday. Janie also checked out a flock of Peeps that are nearly

impossible for us to ID. We avoid the frustration by not trying and just calling ‘em Peeps. We did see a pair of

Gambel’s Quail in the CG; that was interesting. But the highlight of the day was an Immature Peregrine Falcon.

Janie spotted it as we were leaving the refuge. At first it just looked like a blob on the ground, but she thought it

had merit, so she said “Stop” followed by “Backup”. Once she got her binos on it she yelped “You better look at

this.” I did and we quickly confirmed it to be an Immature Peregrine Falcon that seemed to be casually feeding on

its latest kill. We mentioned it to the guy at the Education Center, he said they’d been seeing a couple lately and

asked if it was sitting on an old tire. Nope, just the ground as far as we could tell. We saw a Peregrine and I got

some pictures of it … from a considerable distance … that helped certify the ID. Gambel’s Quail

Peeps (unidentified)

Peregrine Falcon (Immature, feeding on ground)

NO Midges

Reflect:

Tomorrow: the great unknown. We don’t know where we are going but we do know it isn’t back toward Salt Lake

City. Our best alternative is a route that cuts across the north end of the Great Salt Lake Desert and is labeled

Newfoundland Evaporation Basin on our map. We will be sure to have plenty of fuel and supplies before undertaking

that stretch. Eventually we’ll get to NV – then what? Dunno other than generally heading west toward CA.

Once again we have proven our fondness for wildlife refuges. Most of the NPs are too crowded for us, and the NMs

are getting that way as well. That leaves NWRs and that’s just fine except … there aren’t enough of them and many

exist in remote, hard-to-get-to places. I suppose that’s part of the reason they aren’t crowded. Just for

laughs’n’giggles, it would be interesting to list all the NWRs we’ve visited. There have been a bunch … and there are

still a bunch to go. Onward …

Ate:

Granola

Dried Fig & Peanut snack

Chicken Gumbo w/Kielbasa & Mixed Vegetables

Bike Data:

Trail: Bear River NWR Tour Road

ST: 9:30

ET: 11:30

TT: 2:00

BT: 1:49

D (miles): 12.23

Mx (mph): 10.4

Avg (mph): 7.3

Drive:

End: Willard Bay SP #50, Willard UT

Arrive: 2:00

Temp (degrees): 46

Elev (ft): 4248

D (miles): 44

Mpg: 21.2

2019.05.01…WED…Day 17: … Willard Bay SP, Willard UT 4 … Up: 6:17 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 64/38/43 Weather: Clouds, Clearing

Did:

Plans? What plans? We don’t need no stinkin’ plans. And if we had a plan, it would likely be changed … like it was

today. Let’s start this story with the weather. It got damned cold last night, and we awoke to a dusting of slushy

snow. We’d planned to do our utilities, take a shower, and head toward NV. It was too cold to be fooling around with

black, gray & fresh water, and we weren’t sure the showers were heated. We’ll do all that later. Let’s just get on

the road and leave this nice place with all the good memories. To do that, we put DALAS on a road (not I-15)

heading out of Brigham City UT and surprise, surprise, it led us to the Golden Spike National Historical Site. That’s

when our plans changed. We were driving along the access road when we came to The Big Fill pullout. Hmmm, Big

Fill, could be Big Phil, right. Not exactly, it’s where they had to fill a low section to maintain the track’s 2% grade.

By today’s standards, it wasn’t all that big, but by 1869 standards, it was impressive. We stared at it while

contemplating the hand-labor involved; those were men, far better than me for sure. We arrived at the VC just as

they were opening, toured the place, watched a movie, asked Ranger Greg Blum lots of questions, and bought a

passel of postcards. We then learned that they were going to bring the Jupiter out to practice for the BIG crowds

expected over the May 10th sesquicentennial weekend – they’re expecting thousands. We won’t be there, but we did

get to see the Jupiter trundling down the track, turning around, blowing its whistle, and looking beautiful in the

early morning sunlight. In case you aren’t familiar with the Jupiter:

The Jupiter was a 4-4-0 steam locomotive owned by the Central Pacific Railroad. It made history when it joined the Union Pacific No. 119 at

Promontory Summit, Utah, during the Golden Spike ceremony commemorating the completion of the First Transcontinental Railroad in 1869.

There is a two-mile, gravel-drive along the original RR bed, and we took that with great reward. It winds along the

edge of the Promontory Mountains and offers views of the Lake Bonneville Terraces and the Bear River Delta

beyond. We pulled over at the Last Cut where they had to excavate rather than fill, and that’s where we had our

Granola, again pondering the labor involved in this nation-changing endeavor. All too soon we were delivered onto

the paved road. It was noonish. We still have five good hours to get to where we don’t know we’re going … or … we

could backtrack to Brigham City UT, get some groceries, buy some presents, take a last tour of the Bear River

NWR, sign up for #50 for the fourth time, do some housecleaning, and take a shower. It didn’t take long to settle

on option #2.

There’s a sign on a building just outside Brigham City that reads: There’s no angry way to say bubble. We continued

repeating “bubble” in various intonations just to see if they were correct. They were. Next stop, Kent’s Market

where we picked up (and paid for, by the way) some Salmon, Colosimo German Sausage, Frozen Vegetables, Chips

for our dips, Potato and Salad & Coleslaw side dishes to accompany our fish & sausage (not at the same time,

however). After that, it was Idle Isle Fine Candies to get more of the almond butter toffee, “to eat before it’s too

late”. It was only a quarter of two, we had time to make one more slow-pass through the Bear River NWR. We did

an in/out on the access road at the blistering pace of 20 mph and bid farewell to our feathered friends.

Back to Brigham City for fuel that was 20¢ lower than along I-15. The idea was to take the back road to the CG,

but a big ol’ non-moving train was blocking the road, so we were forced to get on I-15. We got off at the second

exit and pulled into Willard SP where we signed up for another night in #50 … that makes $160 for four nights;

Mark’ll pay for it, right? It was only 3:30, time left to do all our chores: utilities, change sheets & towels, vacuum,

put away the groceries, and shower.

Ah, chores done, how about a reward? We broke out Kent’s Market Chips, opened the Herdez Salsa and dug in like

a couple of starved RR workers. Dipping & Chipping was just about the extent of our physical activity for the day.

I’m now basking in the evening sun and typing away while doing my only other physical activity: lifting my glass of

Founders All Day IPA to my parched lips. Ta-ta …

Saw:

A Jack Rabbit hopped in front of us as we were pulling into the Golden Spike National Historical Site parking lot.

The first of the trip. We were on the 2-mile tour road along the original RR grade when Janie spotted something

soaring overhead. Crikey, it was another Peregrine Falcon catching a thermal to gain elevation before stooping to

catch an unsuspecting quarry. It was kind of high but I took pictures anyway. Jack Rabbit

Yellow Bellied Marmot

Peregrine Falcon (flying this time)

Reflect:

We coined a phrase a few trips back that captures our touring style: we’re in no hurry to get where we don’t know

we’re going. That fits today’s activity perfectly. We had no intention of going to the Golden Spike National Historic

Site, the roads just took us there … and there we were, right where we didn’t know we were going. It was totally

fortuitous that they were doing a trial run with the Jupiter and we got to watch while the Rangerette practiced

her spiel about the history and such. The train backed its way past us – blowing its whistle at all the appropriate

times – stopped and then chugged by going forward. Click, click, click … we got a bunch of pictures for Joe George,

about the biggest train-guy we know. The 2-mile auto-road along the original RR grade was marvelous: short, but

packed with interesting things and grand views of the surrounding terrain. Ha! Train terrain. We continued the

unexpected day with some shopping in Brigham City, where we are about to become honorary citizens. We continue

to be impressed with the place. We met an old man in the candy store, and he said he’d been coming there for a

hunnert yars. Yeah, he was a little difficult to understand. He asked where we were from, and when told, said he’d

been to NY, didn’t remember much but he’d been there. A bit later he remembered going to the Baseball Hall of

Fame. I enjoyed my conversation with him as I did kibitzing with the saleslady. As we left, I told her the old guy

wanted one of everything. They laughed and he said, “He’s paying.” No, Mark will pay for it.

Ate:

Granola

Kent’s Market Chips & Herdez Salsa

Salmon w/Potato Salad & Coleslaw

Drive:

End: Willard Bay SP #50, Willard UT

Arrive: 3:38

Temp (degrees): 53

Elev (ft): 4212

D (miles): 111

Mpg: 21.2

2019.05.02…THU…Day 18: Willard Bay SP, Willard UT 4 … to … Double Dice RV Park, Elko NV Up: 6:07 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 53/39/46 Weather: Clear

Did:

Well, this was a different day. We finally escaped the warm embrace of Brigham City UT and headed north on UT-

83. After a too-short jaunt, we ended up on the only through road available: I-84. That took us to Snowville UT

where we were saved from the 80 mph Interstate by slow-lane UT-30. After about a mile, we saw this: No

Services Next 102 Miles. That was a little daunting, but we were prepared for it. OMG, this is BIG country. Wide

open spaces hemmed in by snow-covered mountains. The low terrain was covered with Sage, a few Juniper and lots

of Tumbleweed, mostly caught up in the fences. We passed through a 25-mile continuous-stretch of open range.

What little traffic there was managed to pass us easily on the long, straight stretches of road. The only negative

was there were few places to pull over so we could get better views of the birds & scenery. There were all of two

‘towns’ on UT-30: Park Valley & Rosette. Neither had a viable business, but Park Valley did have a volunteer fire

brigade and an LDS church which is where we settled in for our Granola. We crossed over into NV and UT-30

magically became NV-233. The road and terrain paid no attention to the political boundary.

All good things must end, and our back roads terminated abruptly at I-80. Again, there were no alternatives, so we

were forced to take it for the last 75 miles to Elko NV. Our drive on I-80 gave Janie time to do some research.

We needed a place to stay, and we were making good time and gained an hour at the border crossing, so we’d get

there early enough to do some things. Do What? Janie came up with answers to all our questions. The large sheep

ranches of the past were tended by Basque shepherds, and they left a legacy of Basque culture in the form of

eateries serving Basque entrees. Okay, we’ll have to check that out. She also read about the North Eastern Nevada

Museum, and it sounded interesting. And she found three private RV places, so things were looking good for Elko

NV.

Upon arrival, we drove through town checking out the RV places, eateries & museum. One RV place advertised

$16/night fees, but some of the reviewers complained about the worker-types that were semi-permanent

residents. The second one looked good and we never found the third, so we ended up in the Double Dice RV Park for

a cool $45. The good news is it’s extremely neat and clean, and there’s another Sportsmobile Sprinter parked

nearby. They are from Washington State and their Sprinter is a one-year-old 4x4 version with a pop-top. Oh,

another Sprinter just pulled in. Our short tour revealed the Sterns’ much-lauded Basque restaurant was across the

street from the Museum and next to a filling station with the lowest-priced diesel we saw in town. Done deal. We

got takeout menus to study and headed over to the Museum for an hour of learning about various museum things.

The Museum was surprisingly interesting … just like the other two we’ve visited. It had a wide variety of displays

varying from rocks & minerals to taxidermy representations of creatures from all over the world – Giraffes are

BIG. The most interesting part, however, was the art displays. They had some beautiful photographs from a local

photographer as well as some Ansel Adams and Edward Weston. But the biggest collection was by Will James

(1882-1942), touted to be in the league of Charles M. Russell and Frederick Remington. James’ thing was horses.

There must have been at least 50 of his paintings of horses or ranch scenes. Not only was he a prodigious artist, he

wrote books about the west … lots of books … I counted 50 of ‘em. Now look at his dates. He was only 50 when he

died, and one would assume he didn’t start drawing and writing upon birth, so he did all this in a remarkably short

time. One wonders when he found time to run his ranch and ride his horses. Ah, but the local high school art-

contest winners were even more remarkable than the professional offerings. They were all from this year and

extremely good. The school must have a remarkable art department, and remarkable students whose hands are not

constantly occupied by cell phones.

Okay, time for dinner. The Basque restaurant across the road has the appropriate name of Toki Ona, Basque for

Good Place, and that’s what it turned out to be. Janie had read the Sterns’ review and suggestions, and we had

checked out the menu, so we knew a little about what to expect. All but one of the servers had an unfamiliar

accent, which we assumed to be Basque or Spanish or Peruvian … who cares, they were extremely friendly and

helpful. We settled in and made our order: Basque Pork Chops and Lomo. What’s Lomo? Well, it’s Pork Tenderloin

strips that are bathed in a delightfully garlicy sauce and topped with big slabs of peppers. Both dinners came with

family-style sides: Basque Salad, Green Beans, Rice Pilaf, Spaghetti (yep, you read that correctly), and the piece de

resistance, Potatoes Ana bathed in a delightful cheesy/garlicy sauce. The whole thing began with a big bowl of Beef

Barley Soup, an equally big bowl of salad, and a nice glass of Roscato served well. These were prodigious portions

demanded by the Basque shepherds when they came to town after spending months on the range. We haven’t

suffered that kind of deprivation, but we settled in with a table full of food and did our best to enjoy it. However,

we did not qualify for the Clean Plate Club; we only managed to get our bodies around about half of it. The rest

went into empty containers I retrieved from DALAS. Hey, look, our plates are now clean; we can have desert …

oops, dessert, not desert. The Sterns’ complimented the Bread Pudding, so we got a slab of that to go. Whew!

What an afternoon. We managed to spend some of Mark’s money and had a great time doing it. Thanks, Mark ;-)

Saw:

Along UT-30 & NV-233, we saw several Pronghorn, some of them in large groups not far from the road. And … we

decided to call it BOP Way. That stands for Bird Of Prey and they were plentiful along the drive. Mostly, there

were Red Tailed Hawks and even more Ravens. But the highlight was Golden Eagles; we saw a total of five on that

stretch of otherwise lonely highway. Yay! Red Tailed Hawk (lots of ‘em)

Raven (lots more of ‘em)

Golden Eagle (5 total)

Reflect:

This was a very different day from what we’ve been experiencing so far. We spent about half the day on one

Interstate or the other, but the other half was sheer back-road delight. It wasn’t NWR type stuff, but as close as

you can get while driving along at 45-50 mph. The Ravens were entertaining as they soared around overhead or

perched near their large stick-nests. We flushed Red Tails one after another; at one point there were five in the

air around us. We also got to see five Golden Eagles, two in one location. We now have a better feeling for their

preferred habitat: sage plains rimmed by mountains. No fish for these Eagles. Then we spent time doing city

things. Not the kind of city things we did in Brigham City, but bigger city stuff. The Museum was large. The CG is

essentially in town. And the restaurant was a step above our usual dining ambiance. In a way, I feel a little out of

place. We’ve been in way more natural surroundings for almost three weeks now, and ‘camping’ inside a city is way

different. Eating out is something we don’t normally do. We get carryout and have it in the confines of DALAS with

easy access to our beer/wine selections – and no concern about driving. We’d expected to get our food to go today,

but the restaurant was only a couple blocks down the road, and it’s usually best to have slow food served on site.

But we have leftovers for another day or two; we’ll see how that goes. I’m sure Janie will deal with it appropriately.

Ate:

Granola

Toki Ona (Good Place) Basque Restaurant

Basque Pork Chops, Lomo (Pork Tenderloin Strips & other goodies), Beef Barley Soup, Basque Salad, Spaghetti,

Green Beans, Rice Pilaf, Potatoes Ana (a bit like scalloped), and a glass of Roscato … and Bread Pudding for later … a

day later!

Drive:

End: Double Dice RV Park #26, Elko NV

Arrive: 1:46

Temp (degrees): 64

Elev (ft): 5174

D (miles): 277

Mpg: 20.0

2019.05.03…FRI…Day 19: Double Dice RV Park, Elko NV … to … Silver Sky Lodge RV Park, Eureka NV Up: 5:32 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 50/35/46 Weather: Clear

Did:

Our bodies are still on Mountain Time, causing us to get up a little earlier. Good thing because Janie had read about

Lamoille Canyon, just 20 miles east of Elko. The canyon is a Glacial Valley carved back into the Ruby Mountains.

Unfortunately, the road was closed for reconstruction, so we couldn’t go all the way to the end. We settled for a

nice Picnic area where we looked for birds and had our Granola. We think we saw an Orange Crowned Warbler, but

the sighting was fleeting. However, it is the correct habitat and what we did see showed the proper

characteristics. We searched the babbling mountain stream for a Water Ouzel but none was to be found. We did

find a Spotted Towhee and a Bewick’s Wren. We also saw a pair of Yellow Bellied Marmots catching the morning

rays on a rock that serves both as their front porch and toilet. We were essentially alone in the place. It seems it

is mostly frequented by locals; tourists like us rarely drive back. Hunh!

We reluctantly headed back to Elko and down a side road paralleling I-80 as far as it went. Then it was I-80 to the

next exit where we got off to check out the California Trail Interpretive Center. There were displays, maps &

explanations about the California Trail that hearty Americans took heading for California 1841-69. One of the more

interesting things was the wagons. They had four on display where you could touch ‘em, open compartments and

peek inside. They were much narrower than I expected, with only a five-foot wheel-width and even narrower inside

compartment. These people had come from Independence MO, suffered through the Plains, Salt Flats and now the

South Fork of the Humboldt River. The river valley is inviting with available water, but … much to their chagrin it

disappears into an extensive marsh before coming out the other side. Even after dealing with those issues, they

were faced with the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Yep, Donner Pass and all that. I didn’t spend time reading about the

Donner Party; we’d seen enough documentaries about it. Nice place with good exhibits, free postcards and posters.

Then it was back on I-80 to the next exit where we picked up NV-278. This is an 80-mile stretch of highway with

essentially nothing between I-80 where it begins and Eureka NV where it ends. Very little traffic allowed us to

cruise along at 45 mph and enjoy the scenery. The north end of the road follows Pine Creek Valley before crossing

Garden Pass (6686’) and descending into the Garden Valley. Both valleys are well watered and productive. The hay,

alfalfa and timothy are unusually rich in minerals and constitute the main agriculture products. The ranches are

called Hay Ranches and the valleys are dotted with stacks of hay either covered with large tarps or under shed

barns. They sell to CA, major horse tracks, and even export to Japan. Yeah, it’s that good. The road was also good

for Birds Of Prey (BOP), just like UT-30. We saw lots of Red Tails, Kestrels, Ravens and a couple Golden Eagles.

Between the hay fields are acres and acres of Sage, a Sea of Sage like the Plains Sea of Grass.

The closer we got to Eureka, the more evidence of mining. They are mining Pb, Zn, Mo, Ag, Au and even some

Petroleum. Most of the mines are historical, but a few are currently active and the CG we’re in is home to some of

the miners. Eureka NV is on US-50, The Loneliest Highway In America. However, there’s more traffic on it that

NV-287. It was time to find a campsite, so we drove around Eureka looking for one. Hmmm, there were a couple

places with hookups, but they were occupied by semi-permanent RVs. We stopped at the Sherriff’s Office to seek

guidance. The lady behind the desk said there was a park on Buell Street where we could camp. Okay, we drove

down Buell and found a square of grass with a restroom and playground but no evidence of campsites. If we were to

camp there, we’d have to park on the street. Janie found a reference to an RV Park east of town, so we headed out

that way. There was a weather-beaten sign proclaiming RV Park but under it was a For Sale sign. We drove in

anyway and found all the hookup stuff had been removed and weeds were reclaiming the area. Maybe it’s a little

farther east. Hey, what’s that? A sign announcing the Silver Sky Lodge RV Park. That’s the one we were looking for.

There are RVs there … too many of ‘em. The place looked full up. I asked one of the residents, who directed me to

the manager’s RV. Nobody home. The guy called but didn’t get an answer. He suggested we wait for him to come

back – it shouldn’t be long. Sure enough, he and a woman came in and asked if we were looking for a spot. Yep, we

are. The CG is expanding, and there is a new section that’s just opening. He put us in one of those and that’s where

we are now sitting typing up our notes. We have access to full hookup and showers for only $35 … not bad for a

private place. As a bonus, there’s a flock of Brewer’s Blackbirds on the utility lines across the road.

Here’s a fun fact Janie gleaned from one of the brochures she picked up at the California Trail place: Nevada is

the most mountainous state in the lower 48. Interesting. We are in what is referred to as the Great Basin; here’s

Wikipedia explanation:

The Great Basin is a 209,162-square-mile area that drains internally. All precipitation in the region evaporates, sinks underground or flows into

lakes (mostly saline). As observed by Fremont, creeks, streams, or rivers find no outlet to either the Gulf of Mexico or the Pacific Ocean. The

region is bounded by the Wasatch Mountains to the east, the Sierra Nevada and Cascade Ranges to the west, and the Snake River Basin to the

north and includes most of Nevada, half of Utah, substantial portions of Oregon and California and small areas of Idaho, Wyoming, and Mexico.

The term "Great Basin" is slightly misleading; the region is actually made up of many small basins. The Great Salt Lake, Pyramid Lake, and the

Humboldt Sink are a few of the "drains" in the Great Basin.

And what about that Basin & Range Province? Wikipedia says:

It is generally accepted that basin and range topography is the result of extension and thinning of the lithosphere. Extensional environments

like the Basin and Range are characterized by listric normal faulting, or faults that level out with depth. Opposing normal faults link at depth

producing a horst and graben geometry, where horst refers to the upthrown fault block and graben to the down dropped fault block.

What does all this mean? Well, most of NV’s mountains are Horsts that generally run N-S. The Graben valleys

between are what we’ve been driving through and contain the hay fields and BOP perched on utility poles because

there are no trees. As we drive along, we are hemmed in by snow-covered mountains that have precious few roads

into them, none paved. That makes navigating both simple and complex. Few roads means fewer choices but it also

means great distances between connectors. Yeah, it’s a First World problem.

Okay, time to close this and pay more attention to my Founders Porter …

Saw:

We got to see a few birds in Lamoille Canyon and several more BOPs along NV-278. The Orange Crowned Warbler is

a probable but not certain, but the FOT Brewer’s Blackbird is a definite. The males glowing yellow-eyes and

iridescent feathers are positive IDs, along with the size and habitat. Done. Orange Crowned Warbler (?)

Golden Eagle

Red Tails & Ravens – another BOP way

Brewer’s Blackbird

Reflect:

Our definition of scenic often differs from official documents, probably because what we look for is slightly

different than what passes for normal. For example, there are two parallel roads separated by mountains. The

western one passes through canyons and is designated as scenic on the map. We don’t have a problem with that

being scenic, but it isn’t the scenic we are looking for. Being closed in means we can’t see much and driving on a

twisty road means I see even less. The road on the east side of the mountains is NV-278, the one we drove today.

It passes through broad valleys with extensive views of either hay fields or a Sea of Sage. Things are visible and I

don’t have to focus my total attention on the road. That’s our kind of scenic highway. Especially when there is

essentially no traffic, and what traffic there is has no problem passing us on the long, straight stretches of road.

Hope we can continue to find our version of scenic highways.

Ate:

Granola

Cheese & Tomato Sandwich

Leftover Lomo w/Pilaf & Green Beans

Bread Pudding

Drive:

End: Silver Sky Lodge RV Park, Eureka NV

Arrive: 3:47

Temp (degrees): 69

Elev (ft): 6624

D (miles): 169

Mpg: 20.5

2019.05.04…SAT…Day 20: Silver Sky Lodge RV Park, Eureka NV … to … Austin Baptist Church RV Park, Austin NV Up: 5:35 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 51/34/45 Weather: Clear

Did:

And we were off … heading West on US-50 toward Austin NV. The speed limit was 70 mph, as it is on all the paved

roads, regardless of pavement quality. It does decrease to 55 when passing through mountainous terrain, but that

is still too fast for twisty roads. We settled in at 50 and let the world go by … on our left. Fortunately, there

wasn’t much competition for road space. Janie read from Traveling America's Loneliest Road: A Geologic and

Natural History Tour through Nevada along U.S. Highway 50 by Joseph Tingley & Kris Ann Pizarro. It’s an elegant

roadside geology book with pictures, maps and detailed descriptions. A bit complicated for our feeble brains,

especially because we were traveling backwards on the book route, but suitably informative if you don’t take it too

seriously. We learned most of the region between Eureka and Austin is a thrust sheet where Quartzite overrode

Carbonates. The result: mineralization as replacement ores in the Carbonate. There is a lot of structure in the

valleys and some of the mountains have Calderas and Ash flows. In other words, there’s a lot going on here,

geologically. The big question that we have yet to reconcile is: Are these features superimposed on the fault blocks

or vise versa? Chicken or egg sort of things. Thrusting is compressional and the Fault Block stuff is extensional …

you see the quandary. Later we learned the answer: Paleozoic deposition of marine Carbonates & Shales, Mesozoic

compression and thrusting, Cenozoic fault block with superimposed structures. Overly simplified but, like mud, it

covers the ground.

It's 60 miles between Eureka and Austin. In those 60 miles we saw exactly one dwelling, and it was at the

intersection of US-50 and the only other paved road. Near the end of the drive, we passed through one of the N-S

trending horsts and dropped down into Austin NV. There were decisions to be made. Highest priority: fuel. We fed

DALAS some $3.66 diesel at the one station in town. Then we checked out the two RV places Janie had read about.

The first one was $22 for hookup but no shower; the other was $25 for hookup and free shower. It was time for a

shower, so we opted for the latter. And the name is … Austin Baptist Church RV Park. Yep, it is attached to a rustic

church, the walls are adorned with Bible quotes and restroom/showers are labeled Adam & Eve ... and a big sign

along US-50 states: Prayer Spoken Here. Hmm, stay in Austin or move on? We mulled over the pros/cons: it’s

Saturday, places are far apart, and may be full; we need some downtime to do utilities, shower and consolidate our

pictures; NV-305 is just a mile past Austin, it’s the scenic highway that parallels not-labeled-scenic NV-278 we

drove yesterday, and we were interested in a comparison. The deciding factor? The dulcet tones of a Bullock’s

Oriole in the treetop behind Dalas. Okay, we’ll stay here, in Austin. Janie paid the Iron Ranger, and we had our

Granola serenaded by Mr. B. Oriole. It was early when we got here, and the place was entirely empty; now there are

four campers sitting cheek-to-jowl in the waning evening sun.

NV-305 is in the Reese River Valley, which flows north to join the Humboldt River. The road ends at I-80 some 80

miles distant. We didn’t have time to drive the whole length – and back – se we settled for a turnaround at mile 45,

the Valley of the Moon Roadside Rest marks the spot. When we reached the turnaround, DALAS was registering

23.3 mpg. Why so much? Because there was essentially no wind and we were going down the Reese River gradient.

We lost 1.4 mpg on the way back. So is NV-305 more scenic that NV-278? No. However, we didn’t give it a fair

shake. The north end of the valley widens out just like Pine Creek Valley, and we only got to where that began. The

part we drove was very similar with only a couple exceptions: no Hay Ranches, thus no power lines … and … more ups

& downs and narrow canyons. What’s so important about power lines? Well, there are no trees, so the BOPs perch

on the utility poles, which makes seeing them a lot easier. Still, we got yet another Golden Eagle today. It was

sitting on the ground looking very much like a stump. I can’t get pictures of ‘em because as soon as we stop, they fly

away. Too many people taking pot-shots at ‘em I expect. We also saw an FOT: Ferruginous Hawk. We see them

infrequently, so it was a good sighting. Summary: NV-278 is every bit as scenic as NV-305 and better for birding.

We arrived back at the RV Park around 2:30 and did our utilities. I pruned my beard and then we took showers.

Nice bathrooms and showers; plenty of hot water issuing from one of those Rainforest shower heads. Lunch was

Chips’n’Dip, and then we settled in for some office work trying to catch up with stuff. Holy crap, it’s 5:30 already,

and I’m still typing away. Gotta stop and give my Oskar Blues Old Chub full attention …

Saw:

We got a couple FOTs today. A Bullock’s Oriole right in the RV Park and a Ferruginous Hawk along NV-305. Both

were excellent sightings, especially the hawk. And … yet another Golden Eagle. It’s a cushy life, folks, but someone

has to lead it! ME, ME, Let it be ME … with my best girl by my side. Bullock’s Oriole

Ferruginous Hawk

Golden Eagle (yep, another one)

Reflect:

This trip was planned in outline form. Because it was early spring, we had to go somewhere warm. We’d been south

the last two falls, and we’ve travelled the SW recently as well. The only option that made sense was heading S to

get out of NYS weather and then W rather than SW. We identified some states that we’ve infrequently if ever

toured and those became our general destinations. Preliminary evaluations of maps suggested some roads that

looked interesting. Then there are the NWRs that we’d like to hit along the way. The roads were just lines on a

map, full of possibilities both good and bad. It’s a crap shoot, but we’ve had enough experience to maximize our

probabilities. Yeah, GPFMR, but I said it anyway. It is interesting to see how those lines on a map translate into

reality. So far we’ve been lucky; they’ve all turned out to be what we expected and more. Let’s hope the trend

continues.

Ate:

Granola

Chips’n’Dip

Leftover …

Roast Beef, Cheese, Onion, Tomato Sauce, Chili Peppers & Seeds of Change Rice Mixture all rolled in a flour

Tortilla and fried in a modicum of butter

Drive:

End: Austin Baptist Church RV Park #8, Austin NV

Arrive: 2:34

Temp (degrees): 73

Elev (ft): 6739

D (miles): 174

Mpg: 21.9 (got as high as 23.3 before turning around on NV-305)

2019.05.05…SUN…Day 21: Austin Baptist Church RV Park, Austin NV … to … Churchill County CG, Fallon NV Up: 5:30 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 57/48/54 Weather: Clear

Did:

The book (Traveling America's Loneliest Road: A Geologic and Natural History Tour through Nevada along U.S.

Highway 50 by Joseph Tingley & Kris Ann Pizarro) has turned out to be very useful. We recommend it to anyone

traveling US-50 through NV. It mainly focuses on Geology but also includes useful information about plants,

animals, birds, culture and side roads. That’s where we learned about NV-722 that takes off just west of Eureka

NV, loops through some great scenery, and comes back to US-50 some 60 miles later. Great choice. We had a blast.

There was very little traffic, no more than twenty vehicles, and most of them passed while we were parked. Also,

there were no utility poles and no fences most of the way. It was truly open range. Hmm, does that make the cattle

organic? The road cuts through the Desatoya Mountains by way of 7,500’ Carol Pass. The canyon is cut into Ash-

Flow Tuff that issued from any, or all, of the many Calderas dotting the region. By the way, we wouldn’t know any of

this without the book. We pulled into a parking area on the west side of the pass for our Granola. That’s where we

saw our first Clark’s Nutcracker and Green Tailed Towhee. The Granola was good too.

The valley on the west side of the Desatoya Mountains is dominated by a large Alkali Flat complete with mirages. It

extended for several miles, the largest evaporation basin we’ve ever been in. The road had drainage ditches on each

side exposing a near vertical section of white evaporite. Industrious individuals have taken the time to collect black

Basalt cobbles and use them to write names, sayings and such. Some of them were very elaborate. For example,

there was one that started with “We the people …” I don’t know how much more it contained, maybe all of it.

We were eventually delivered to the outskirts of Fallon NV. Janie had read that there is camping at the Churchill

County Fair Grounds, so we went over there to check it out. Yep, several sites selling for $14/night with full hookup

and showers available. That would be our fallback. Our main objective was Stillwater NWR, which has not one but

two campsites. We drove the 20 miles over to Stillwater and found it … dry. There were Alkali Flats that were

formerly pools, and the pools that remain turned out to be almost barren of wildlife. We drove to the one of the

campsites and discovered that it is just a parking area with a vault toilet, no shade, no nothing, just dust. We

continued on and drove the tour loop where we stopped at a pavilion taken over by Cliff Swallows, and we had a

light lunch with them. They are kinda messy.

There was a boardwalk out to the water that we decided to check out. There are supposed to be Canvasback Ducks

here, and we don’t have them on our FOT list yet. I had the D7500 with the big lens in my right hand while using my

left to grip the handhold before stepping down to the ground. I prefer to hold the camera in my left hand so I can

use my right for the binoculars. As I was switching from right to left - I think you know where this is going – I

fumbled the exchange and watched the camera and lens fall to the hardpacked gravel … The lens is much heavier

than the camera body, so it naturally was the first thing to hit. My heart stopped. Once I regained a little

composure, I pick it up to assess the damage. The lens was shattered. Big, intersecting cracks greeted my eyes.

But wait, I remember buying a UV filter for it. Maybe that’s all that’s cracked. I tried to unscrew it, but it was

dented and wouldn’t come off. The plastic ring it was screwed into came off, so I held that over our wastebasket

and knocked the filter glass out. After putting it back together, I tried some test shots. Hmmm, seems to work. I

can’t believe it didn’t knock the optics out of alignment. Only a picture with delicate bird-feathers will be a true

test. Once I saw that the damage wasn’t total, my heart started beating more normally.

After possibly surviving a dropped camera and 30 dusty miles of Stillwater NWR, we decided to beat feet back to

the Fairground CG and settle into one of the Cottonwood-shaded spots. The place had cleared out since our first

visit; the weekenders were heading home. So here we sit doing our evening routine in 80o DALAS, which is better

than the 100o earlier in Stillwater. I’m drowning my camera sorrows with a Southern Tier 2x Milk Stout and getting

ready for a Salmon dinner. Chow for now …

Saw:

NV-722 was productive as well as scenic. We got a couple definite FOTs and some repeats of note. The Dark Phase

Ferruginous may be a life bird. Even if it isn’t, it’s rare, constituting only 10% of the species. We spotted a flock of

Ravens mobbing something on the ground. Closer inspection revealed the ‘something’ to be a Golden Eagle. Of

course, it flushed as soon as we stopped, but I snapped off some shots of it flying away. Janie saw something that

was black & white and much bigger than a Groundhog. By elimination we came up with Badger, but eliminated that

because badgers don’t have b&w stripes on their hindquarters. Research suggested wolverine, but we can neither

confirm nor deny. Ferruginous Hawk (Dark Phase)

Golden Eagle (on ground, mobbed by Ravens)

Green Tailed Towhee

Clark’s Nutcracker

Badger (?) Wolverine (?)

Pronghorn

Reflect:

Dropping the lens and camera was a traumatic event. Time will tell just how traumatic. At the very least, I’ll need

to replace the UV filter and the assembly it screws into. It’s insured, but I don’t know what that means. The lens-

D7500 combination has been working even better than I’d hoped, and I’ve learned to depend on it. If it turns out

to have an alignment issue, I’ll be getting a replacement lens either via insurance or … Mark.

On a happier note … NV-722 and the other back roads we’ve been on have been great. As we drive along, we think

back to Arches & Capitol Dome NPs. These roads are just as scenic, if not more so, with the added benefit of not

being choked with vehicles. Wildlife is an even greater benefit; we’ve seen scads more of it than we’d probably ever

see in one of the NP … unless we got out and walked back into the wild, beyond the trampling feet of others. So

far, we haven’t done any significant hiking mainly because of time constraints. That will likely change once when we

get to CA & OR. Yeah, we are back roaders and enjoying it.

Ate:

Granola

Peanut Butter & Crackers

Salmon w/Coleslaw and Potato Salad if needed

Drive:

End: Churchill County CG #19, Fallon NV

Arrive: 3:31

Temp (degrees): 84

Elev (ft): 3971

D (miles): 178

Mpg: 21.5 (23.6 before NWF)

2019.05.06…MON…Day 22: Churchill County CG, Fallon NV … to … Stough Reservoir CG, Modoc NF, Cedarville CA Up: 5:51 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 63/54/64 Weather: Clear, NW Wind

Did:

Time to move on. We started with a fuel stop in Fallon NV, then motivated over to a County Road leading to the

Paiute Reservation that surrounds Pyramid Lake, fed by the Truckee River issuing from Lake Tahoe. The lake is a

remnant of a much larger Pleistocene lake and is now confined to a Caldera. It’s like a mini-Crater Lake, complete

with a central island. The island is entirely within a NWR with no public access, necessary to protect a large colony

of White Pelicans. We had our Granola while gandering at the white dots (Pelicans) on Pyramid Lake. Heading

northward, we passed several other partially or totally dry lakes, all surrounded by Tertiary Volcanics. We pieced

together County Roads going N, NW and then W, all in Tertiary Volcanics. Man, the Tertiary was a happening time.

We drove past some large Alkali Flats, and when we arrived in Empire NV, we were greeted by a big US Gypsum

mine with ore trucks hauling Selenite down to the processing plant, raising huge plumes of dust that could be seen

for miles.

Next came Gerlach NV, a vanishingly small collection of businesses and buildings kept alive by tourists and …

Burning Man, held in the nearby Black Rock Desert every August. I know it’s called Burning Man because they burn

a large wooden human figure, but … in August, I’d expect it to be Burning Man & Woman as well. There were a

couple very interesting businesses in Gerlach. One was a beat-up old-building with a sign proclaiming it to be the

home of KLAP-FM. The other was a bit of Americana called The Miner’s Club, complete with a 1,000-mph speed

limit sign on the front door. Then there was the sign proclaiming Gerlach to be the Center Of The Known Universe.

After Gerlach, we passed through a deep canyon and climbed up on top of Table Rock, formed by successive

volcanic flows and offering a grand view of CA’s snowcapped Warner Mountains, a spur of the Cascade Mountains.

After a couple miles of table-top driving, we descended into Eagleville CA, at the head of appropriately named

Surprise Valley. The center of the valley is essentially all Alkali Flat, but the surrounding terrain is a much

different story. There were lush, green fields for haying and pasturing cattle and running water to support all the

agricultural activity … all within a short distance from the barren Alkali. Surprise, indeed. We continued along

Surprise Valley for several miles before turning westward in Cedarville CA.

Hmmm, it’s getting on and we haven’t IDed a place to camp. The Warner Mountains, and others farther west, are

mostly NF. The question is: are the NFCGs snowed in, and if not, are they open for camping? We needed a NF

Ranger Station to find out. Whoa, there’s one now. I turned DALAS around – still amazed at her nimbleness – and

pulled into the parking lot. Yep, they are open until 5 today. We walk in and are greeted by an empty chair … and a

sign: Ring Bell For Service. Ding … out comes a large, young man to answer our questions. We asked our question,

and he started rattling off several campsites that are open, although not officially. We had a long conversation

with our new, friendly-Ranger friend and learned a lot about the area … and a little about him. He said he’s lived in

NV but was originally from the LA area, and then he dropped this gem on us: My mom said I was shit on a rock and

hatched by the Sun. Now there’s an image for ya. He’s not Native American, but if he were that would be a good

name: Chief Shit On A Rock And Hatched By The Sun. He suggested Stough Reservoir CG in the Modoc NF. It was

just 5 miles up, up, up CA-299 and only 0.5 miles off the road. He told us it was Sub Alpine and that’s what we need

after all the dusty desert-like stuff we’ve been immersed in lately.

So here we sit, in the midst of a Douglas Fir/Ponderosa Pine forest. There are no facilities other than a vault

toilet, so we parked DALAS in the sun and let the solar panels fill up our batteries. While that was happening, we

had a little snack of Chips’n’Dip before taking a walkabout to look for birds and wildflowers – we saw some of each.

The Sub-Alpine forest was a massive change of environment for us.

Okay, time to concentrate on one of Joe George’s generous gifts: Great Lakes Edmund Fitzgerald. Thanks, again,

Joe …

Saw:

We finally got our Badger, clear as day, right beside the road, and I watched it cross the road after we passed.

Smart Badger to wait for the traffic to clear. Ah, yes, we don’t know why the Badger crossed the road but … it did.

We also saw yet another Golden Eagle. We’d asked Ranger Shit On A Rock And Hatched By The Sun about ‘em and

he said they were plentiful. Good. We were seeing so many, I was starting to doubt our IDing. Our walk around the

campground produced good views of an FOT: Townsend’s Solitaire.. Along the drive, we saw some horses off in the

distance with no sign of human activity for miles. We’d read and Ranger Shit On A Rock And Hatched By The Sun

confirmed, that there are herds of Mustangs in the valley, so we’re saying we probably saw some. It reminds me of

the Will James drawing we saw in the Elko NV Museum. It showed a single-file string of horses winding out of a

deep canyon and the title was, “A String Of Wild Ones Two Miles Long.” That’s a lot of horses … we didn’t see

nearly that many. We did see some mountain flowers on our walkabout. They were just popping out after being

buried in who knows how many feet of snow. Badger (definite, this time)

Golden Eagle (yep, again)

Townsend’s Solitaire

Wild Horses (probable)

Ballhead Waterleaf

Arrow Leaved Balsamroot

Cous Biscuit Root

Western Peony

Reflect:

Sometimes the back roads surprise ya. Especially when you end up in Surprise Valley, CA. As I said the other day,

taking these back roads is a crapshoot. Today, we won big-time. Foremost, there was the scenery: Lakes, Alkali

Flats, well-watered fields, snowcapped mountains, volcanic flows, volcanic ash, volcanic bombs, and red scoria used

to gravel the roads. Those deep-red roads were a sight. All of that with very little traffic. I tried to keep track

and came up with about 150 miles of continuous driving during which we were only passed by five vehicles. The lack

of traffic let me chug along at 40 mph while watching the scenery pass by. And then we end up in a Sub Alpine

forest with a free campsite. I’ll take a day like this anytime.

Ate:

Granola

Chips’n’Dip

Pork Tenderloin w/Ana Potato & 7-Grain Rice

Drive:

End: Stough Reservoir CG, Modoc NF, Cedarville CA

Arrive: 2:30

Temp (degrees): 64

Elev (ft): 6284

D (miles): 198

Mpg: 20.2 (much better until last climb)

2019.05.07…TUE…Day 23: Stough Reservoir CG, Modoc NF, Cedarville CA … Stough Reservoir CG, Modoc NF,

Cedarville CA 2 … Up: 5:31 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 54/41/53 Weather: Clear

Did:

After morning beverages, we descended from on high down to a 4,000’ Volcanic Plateau and into Alturus CA where

we collected data on CA fuel prices. Outside of town it was $3.79, in town $4.39. We expected higher prices in CA,

but not with this variability. Probably the lower price was a Pit Indian business; we saw signs about them, and they

have a casino nearby. So why Alturus? Because it is the Real West as its sign announced … and … more importantly

… just outside of town is Modoc NWR, our destination for the day. Although small, Modoc is one of the nicer NWRs

we’ve visited. The weather is here, wish you were beautiful … err, I mean the weather was beautiful and we were

here. Time to bike. The tour road is only 3 miles, so we did it in the AM and again in the PM. We’d noticed a paved

bike-path along the road from town to the refuge. There is a second part to the refuge, and it looked like the bike

path continued to it. More about that later.

Our morning ride ended up being 4.5 miles because we took a side trail and then biked down to the locked VC. It

was way past time for breakfast back at DALAS. Our Granola was especially welcomed today. After a half-hour

break, we decided to try the bike path for our afternoon ride. Hmmm, we quickly learned it stops 0.25 miles down

the road … at a casino. There was some traffic on the road, but they all seemed to be going to/from the casino. We

pedaled on the road … our least favorite way to bike. Geeze, this is farther than the map suggests … and … there

are some kinda steep climbs (uphill into a headwind, of course). We could see some of the ponds and they looked

pretty barren. We got to the top of a big rise and scanned the horizon for the entrance to this part of the refuge

but didn’t see any likely candidates. That’s enough of this crap; we’ll go back and bike the tour loop again. The

afternoon wind was picking up and most of the birds were busy digesting their morning meals. We just did a slow

ride remembering Rachel Carson’s statement: Treat it like you never saw it before or treat it like you’ll never see it

again. Both were applicable for us.

A plan for the day popped into our heads shortly after starting our morning ride. We can easily spend most of the

day in the refuge; we are not likely to find a better campsite than last night, certainly not down here in the high

desert. We’ll spend the day in the refuge and go back up, up, up the mountain for another night in the Sub Alpine

forest. That’s exactly what we did, and now we are sitting in the evening glow, checking our pictures and

identifications and writing our notes. Whoa, a Steller’s Jay just took a perch in a tree next to DALAS. Click, click,

click. Now it’s time to dig deeper into my celebratory Brooklyn Chocolate Stout.

Saw:

We saw lots of birds, most of ‘em were not FOTs. The sky was practically full of Red Tails and Harriers, and we

had our now daily Golden Eagle sighting. There were lots of waterfowl, and we got some good views of Marsh Wrens

and an even better view of Sandhill Cranes. Good day in a NWF. Savannah Sparrow

Yellowthroat

American Bittern

Steller’s Jay

Red Tailed Hawk (lots)

Golden Eagle (again, soaring overhead)

Reflect:

We are into our fourth week, and our enthusiasm level is still high. After spending, what was it, three consecutive

nights in less than wonderful private CGs, our enthusiasm was replenished here in the Sub Alpine NFCG … and it’s

free. The NWR really topped up our enthusiasm tank, and now we are ready to tackle more of Northern CA. We’ve

been hatching a plan to meet up with AJ (Romanelli). He belongs to a flying club and can take one of the planes and

fly up from Carlsbad CA to meet us somewhere on Friday. We’ll probably be on or near the coast by then. It’ll be

great to see AJ again. He has some familiarity with the area and will have some ideas about what the three of us

can do for a couple days. We’ll see how it all unfolds. Ah, a mystery …

Ate:

Granola

Chips’n’Dip (finally finished)

Pulled Pork (Basque Chop) & Potato Salad

Bike Data:

Trail: Modoc NWR, Alturus CA

ST: 9:00 & 11:30

ET: 11:00 & 2:30

TT: 5:00

BT: 2:37

D (miles): 18.63

Mx (mph): 25.8 (big hill)

Avg (mph): 7.1

Hike Data:

Trail: Stough Reservoir CG, Modoc NF, Cedarville CA

ST: N/A

ET: N/A

TT: 1:00

D (miles): 1.5

Drive:

End: Stough Reservoir CG, Modoc NF, Cedarville CA

Arrive: 3:20

Temp (degrees): 65

Elev (ft): 6278

D (miles): 42

Mpg: 17.7 (up, up, up)

2019.05.08…WED…Day 24: Stough Reservoir CG, Modoc NF, Cedarville CA … to … Ackerman NFCG, Shasta-Trinity

NR, Lewiston CA Up: 5:36 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 54/44/53 Weather: Clear

Did:

CA-299 right on through … stopped at the Pit Indian filling-station to feed DALAS the cheapest CA diesel we’ve

seen. Then it was on through Alturus CA heading for Redding CA, shooting the gap between Lassen to our south and

Shasta to the north. We had our Granola just west of Nubieber CA. Yeah, there was a Bieber before getting to

Nubieber – interesting. We were in a fertile valley with lots of agriculture, mostly cattle, pasture & hay fields.

Fittingly, there were lots of cattle, hay & log trucks in addition to the usual commercial ones. More agriculture

means more people, more towns and more traffic. It was a busy road, certainly in comparison to the back roads

we’ve been traveling. The scenery was grand, what I could see between road & vehicle watching. We crossed over a

divide and dropped down into the Fall River Valley, even more agriculturally rich. There were stands selling

Strawberries, Blueberries, Cherries … and … Wild Rice. We saw several flooded, rectangular fields, likely the

source of the Wild Rice. The valley was also occupied by the same Pit River we saw in Alturus, only much larger, so

there was plenty of water available. We stopped at a Safeway in Burney CA to replenish our side dishes. CA-299

passes through Tertiary Volcanics all the way to Redding CA where there are some Mesozoic Intrusive exposures.

Tomorrow we’ll be going through some Paleozoic stuff then Jurassic & Cretaceous material scraped off the

descending plate I presume.

Although we were passing through small villages, we were also losing elevation. Eventually, the populations outpaced

the altitude, especially when we got to Redding – the largest city we’ve been in for a while. Our purpose for going

there, other than that’s where the road goes, was to stop at an NF Ranger station to get camping information. It

was on the southside of town and turned out to be a huge complex. The desk lady was a bit of an airhead, but very

friendly, and extremely talkative – like she was lonely just sitting in that big room with nobody coming in. We asked

our question and she said, “I have a map right here … umm, where is it? … oh, we’re out of ‘em. I ordered them last

week, but they haven’t come in.” She then proceeded to tell us how wonderful the map was and how it has all the

information we seek … and more. Then she said we could get one at the CA Welcome Center down in Anderson …

just down I-5. Like I said, friendly but lonely. We disengaged and headed for I-5.

The CA Welcome Center is just off I-5 … in a shopping center. In we go and meet up with another very friendly and

talkative desk person. This one was a youngish man who, when he started answering our question, I gave the

timeout signal and said, “You probably get this a lot, but you look like Leonard Hofstetter on Big Bang.” Yeah, he

agreed; he gets it a lot. Not only did he look like him, he also talked like him and had some of the same mannerisms.

I wouldn’t have been surprised if he’d said Johnny Galecki was his cousin or something. He gave us the map and

showed us some his favorite campsites … there are literally dozens of ‘em in the area. Fortunately, another couple

came in, so we handed Johnny/Leonard-look-alike off to them. I-5 goes north through the center of the city, but

Janie found a state road that went on the west side and connected with CA-299.

Heading west on CA-299, we passed through the area devastated by the Carr WildFire. Trees were blackened as

far as you could see. We had some interest in Whiskeytown CA because of the name and there was camping there.

Johnny told us it was all burnt out. We could see little islands of green along the road; most of them contained a

dwelling saved from the fire. We came to a road that took off toward Lewiston CA and onward to the Trinity River

Reservoir where several of the NFCGs are located. We checked out the first few, but they were mostly for car

campers or backpackers. Then we got to Ackerman CG and found our home for the night. This is what they call dry

camping: no facilities, not even water. This will be our third consecutive night depending on our 7-year-old

batteries to keep the refrigerator running. I had ‘em tested before we left and they passed, but I can tell they

are on their last legs and will be replaced when we get back. Yeah, no water means no shower for yet another day.

Tomorrow we will have to find a place with full amenities. If they ask if we have pets, we’ll say, Just Pepe LePew!

So here we sit, outside because it is 90o in DALAS. We parked in a sunny spot to soak up some solar, but there is a

nice breeze in DALAS’ shadow and that’s where we are doing our evening routine. We are near the Trinity River,

and there are lots of birds flitting around in the trees. So far, we’ve ID a dozen species, five of ‘em FOTs. A male

Blue Headed Grosbeak keeps cycling through. He perches in the tippy-top of a pine and sings his little heart out …

defining the boundaries of his territory. Yeah, it’s not a bad life, even if we are developing a bit of unwanted

personality from lack of personal hygiene. It’s now time to get more serious about my Founders All Day IPA, so

check in tomorrow and see what (mis)adventures we got into.

Saw:

It all started with some probable California Quail that we flushed on the road from the campsite. This evening,

they are in our campsite, so the ID is now certain. We pulled over at a bank riddled with holes and a hoard of Bank

Swallows going in/out of ‘em. We’ve never had such a good view. The birds in the CG are putting on a show for us.

There are only a few trees, so we can focus our attention and watch the changing clientele. So far, we’ve seen a

dozen species, some of ‘em up close. Neat. California Quail

Bank Swallow

Black Headed Grosbeak

Blue Gray Gnatcatcher

Yellow Breasted Chat

Black Phoebe

Nashville Warbler (?)

Hermit-Townsend’s Warbler (?)

Pygmy Nuthatch (?)

Bald Eagle (white head on nest)

Poppies

Bluebonnets

Reflect:

Although the day was somewhat marred by traffic, it was still rewarding in many ways. Watching the geology

change as we move west is a highlight. We’ve been through explosive, Rhyolitic Volcanics and thick sequences of

more fluid Basaltic stuff – all associated with the subduction at a tectonic-plate boundary. It’s complicated in

detail, but much simpler when considering the BIG picture. Sitting outside in the cool of DALAS’ shadow is a treat.

The birds just keep coming, showing themselves to us, and then moving on before another species repeats the

process. It’s a bit like sitting in a bird blind, I suppose. Tomorrow we expect to be on the coast in the land of the

Redwoods. We hope to be meeting up with AJ Friday for a couple days of talking about you all.

Ate:

Granola

Peanut Butter & Crackers

Trader Joe’s Thai Curry w/Tilapia & Mixed Vegetables on Seeds of Change Brown Basmati Rice

Drive:

End: Ackerman NFCG #33, Shasta-Trinity NR, Lewiston CA

Arrive: 3:36

Temp (degrees): 85

Elev (ft): 1970

D (miles): 226

Mpg: 21.6

2019.05.09…THU…Day 25: Ackerman NFCG, Shasta-Trinity NR, Lewiston CA … to … Redwood Coast RV, Eureka CA Up: 6:04 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 60/54/61 Weather: Clear – Fog on coast

Did:

We continued on the NF road around the west side of the reservoir. Lots of ups/downs/arounds but almost no

traffic. Very scenic … and then we came onto the Grouse (see below). Eventually, we picked up CA-3, which

connected with CA-299 and more points west. We’ve been on CA-299 nearly all our CA driving. It’s a good road and

going to get better once they finish all the road work. We must have encountered ten “Flagger Ahead” where the

road was reduced to one lane a dozen times. It’s amazing how many times we encounter this one-lane thing … and

are the first in line. A few years ago, I came up with a strategy. When the pace car comes to lead us through, I pull

over a bit and wave the string of vehicles behind us on. After a bit of confusion, they pass, and I pull out at the

end of the line. Not only do I not have to deal with vehicles pushing me down the road, I’m protected from the rear

until the next string is released. It works pretty well, as does pulling in behind a slow-moving truck and letting it

run interference and serve as an excuse for going slow; let ‘em get mad at the truck and not me – so much.

The road is etched on the edge of the Trinity River Gorge and provides some spectacular vistas of both the valley

and raging river below. We had our Granola in one of the fat places in the road intended for slow-moving vehicles to

allow others to pass. It was exceptionally wide, so we didn’t interfere with the intended purpose. The fill at the

base of the rock wall was littered with … flowers. The one Janie could ID was Lupine … the others … dunno.

Onward, mostly climbing before starting a 20-mile, 3,000’ descent down to US-101 in Arcata CA. From that point on

we were in a fog, both mentally and literally. The Pacific must be colder than ambient causing a coastal fog. It

wasn’t heavy but certainly different. We pulled into a Chamber of Commerce Visitor Center to seek camping

information. A young woman was very informative and pleasant … and originally from Greenbelt MD. She, of course,

knew about Bowie and all that, so we settled right in kinda homey-style. She rattled off various places and gave us

an armload of brochures & maps. We needed a shower and to do our utilities. That meant a private CG; we settled

on one about halfway between Eureka & Arcata, signed up for one night and did our dumping and cleansing. Ah,

clean bodies encased in fresh clothes.

It was early afternoon, so we spent some time reconnoitering the area. The priorities were: places to camp that

aren’t RV Parks, check out the McKinleyville Airport where AJ will be landing; find some places to eat; and feed

DALAS some expensive diesel. Off we went, heading north to check on a County Park that’s pretty much right on

the beach. Hmmm, it seemed to be a paved parking-lot converted to a CG by adding picnic tables around the edges

and lining off parking spots. Interesting; it’ll be a fallback possibility. Next came the airport. It was much bigger

than I expected; they even have a car rental place. We’ll be picking AJ up there tomorrow evening.

We’d read about Patrick’s Point SP, near Trinidad CA, and Janie had checked it out online. All the sites were Xed

out implying they were already reserved. We opted to check it out anyway, and that’s where we met up with the

cutest and friendliest Rangerette we’ve encountered. She said they were just starting a new system where they

keep about 50 sites for first-come-first-serve, and if we were to show up between 12 & 2, there would likely be

some available. She allowed us to drive through and see for ourselves. OMG, the place is gorgeous. The sites are

separated by thick vegetation; there are trails going hither & yon; and AJ can set up his tent on our site for free

rather than an additional $20 at the RV Park. The downside: no hookups and pay showers. We stopped on the way

out to express our thanks and ask about interesting places to eat. Her response: “Oh, the Lighthouse in Trinidad.

They serve mashed potatoes in a cone and you can get it with cheese, gravy, or other gooey stuff on top.” Our

response: “Oh, a health food place.” After leaving, we stopped in Trinidad to check it out. Hey, Baby Back Ribs all

night Friday … and it’s between the CG and airport. Cool.

The final stop was a Shell station in McKinleyville where we filled DALAS with $4.25/gallon diesel. Hey, it’s Cali; I

expected to be paying $5. Back to the RV Park where we did some cleaning up before settling in for our evening

routine. OMG, the Sun came out; it got a lot hotter suddenly. It’s been in the upper 50s to lower 60s since we

arrived on the coast and now its up to 67o out – 78o in. Gonna get down to the 40s tonight, but, looking at the long

range, it doesn’t change much for the foreseeable future. That’s what a large body of water will do, I suppose.

Okay, time to get serious with one of Joe’s Great Lakes Edmund Fitzgerald Porters … see ya later, gator.

Saw:

While we were driving around in the NF, we noticed a fluffy lump in the road ahead. Hmmm, it looks like a … Grouse.

There was no traffic, so I could just stop while Janie tried to ID it. It was a female and they aren’t very

distinctively patterned. I edged closer and it continued to stand there. I unleased the big lens but had to shoot

through the dirty front windshield, so the pics were not very good. Eventually, the bird snuck off into the

underbrush, and we started going through the books. Hmmm, it looked most like a Spruce Grouse, the behavior

matches, but the range doesn’t. If not a Spruce, then maybe a Blue Grouse. Hmmm, they’ve split the Blue into

Dusky & Sooty. Dusky occurs farther north, so maybe a Sooty. We still don’t know. If it was a Sooty, it’d be a Life

Bird, so we need to be more certain of the ID. What we do know is the Pacific Dogwood is in full bloom as are the

Rhododendron – and big, everything is big, even the flowers, which we can’t ID either. And then there were the

Redwoods. None of the ones we saw today was large, but they have to start somewhere, right? Grouse (Spruce, Blue, Sooty?)

Pacific Dogwood

Redwood

Reflect:

We made it to the Pacific Coast … and it only took us 25 days. I got sand in my shoes, so it’s official, we’re at the

ocean. We could see the roaring waves … not much peaceful about the Pacific here. Our prior experiences in

California were weird. Janie was in the San Francisco airport for a few hours in 1965 returning from Okinawa. She

remembers riding on an escalator for the first time – UP the Down Staircase and Vice Versa, and hearing current

popular music. Army Radio Stations on Okinawa were not allowed to play Beatles music (I Wanna Hold Your Hand

was too “sexy”). The tune she remembers from the SF Airport was Gary Lewis and the Playboys “This Diamond

Ring”. The first and last time I was in CA was back in 1968 in San Francisco where I was herded onto an overpacked

airplane and shipped to Viet Nam.

This visit to CA has been way more pleasant. We’ve confined ourselves to the northern part because we’ll likely be

doing the SW again (NM & AZ), and we can venture into the southern part of the state then. For now, it’s north

and more north. After our visit with AJ, it will be heading-home-time. We’ll do a little of OR before turning

eastward into ID and points east.

We’re going to check out the Big Trees in the National & State Redwood Parks either with AJ or after he returns

home. Neither of us has seen big Redwoods. The young lady at the Information place told us you could take a trail

back to the tallest tree in the world, but it isn’t labeled or otherwise identified. That’s cool, but we don’t need to

see the tallest, smallest, biggest, lowest, or greatest of anything. Just seeing a few BIG Redwoods will be fine for

us.

Ate:

Granola

Jen O’s Summer Sausage from Christmas/Her Birthday gift bucket

Dinty Moore Stew, seriously augmented by Chef Janie

Drive:

End: Redwood Coast RV, Eureka CA

Arrive: 12:32

Temp (degrees): 58

Elev (ft): 42

D (miles): 121

Mpg: 21.4

2019.05.10…FRI…Day 26: Redwood Coast RV, Eureka CA … to … Patrick’s Point SP, Trinidad CA Up: 5:56 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 61/53/59 Weather: Fog, Clearing some

Did:

This write up is three days after the fact. Why? Because we picked AJ up this evening and everything after that is

a BLURRRR … sorta. Our day began at Redwood Coast RV Resort where, in anticipation of AJ’s arrival, we did our

utilities again and showered. AJ wasn’t expected until around five, so we had some time to fill. Let’s mosey down to

the Arcata Marsh Wildlife place and see what’s shakin’ there. Hmmm, doesn’t open for another fifteen minutes. We

walked around a bit until 9 when we walked in and met up with a very informative and friendly host from SE PA

(near JenO) of all places. With the exuberance of his first contact, he told us all about what to see and do in the

Marsh, and then walked us out to where the Bushtits have an active nest. Holy crap, it looks like a fuzzy sock. The

owners were bouncing around in the scrub scarfing down big, juicy caterpillars. Ummm, yum. We opted for a

different breakfast: Granola at a parking area overlooking some tide pools. And our reward, other than the

Granola? A life bird: Red Necked Phalarope. Yay, us!

It was going on noon and time to see if we can get a campsite at Patrick’s Point SP. We arrived at 11:55 and by the

time the two ranger guys finished debating if it was late enough to register us, we were processed and it was

12:00, the official time for registering. By 12:05 we were parked in site #106; we’ll be here for two nights, maybe

three, depending on when AJ flies back to Karen. Hey, there’s a cute little rabbit munching the grass along the

edge of our campsite. It clearly isn’t one of our regular Cottontails – too small with different behavior. Have to

look it up later … assuming we can remember. We did and decided it was a brush rabbit.

We still had some time before AJ descends from the heavens, so we checked out a few nearby places of interest.

Hustling/bustling Trinidad (population 311) was clearly the place to go. Janie had done some research, so we had a

bit of an itinerary. First and foremost was Katy’s Smokehouse. We read about it and were impressed. She’s been

smoking fish and other delicacies in a style learned from local Native Americans … for 60 years. You’d think

someone who’d been smoking for 60 years would have health issues. Well, as it turns out, she did. We learned that

she’d had some ‘problems’, and when we arrived at her place of business, we were greeted with a large sign:

CLOSED Until Further Notice. Damn, we wanted some smoked Salmon … and to meet Katy. We wished her well and

continued our reconnaissance.

We heard the Beachcomber was a good place for breakfast & lunch … and everything in between. We quickly

learned that is was plain and simple: a good if not great place. Very, very local and environmentally friendly … and

people friendly as well, judging from the big YES painted above the entry to the kitchen. Behind the counter we

found a lovely young lady from … Lafayette LA. There was only one other customer, so we had time to chat. She

said northern CA fit her much, much better than LA, and her happy mood reflected that conclusion. They serve a

variety of sandwich-y things along with baked goods and coffee. No paper cups; you bring your own or borrow one

from their eclectic collection … or you can pay $1 for a Mason jar. About the only thing on the lunch menu that we

recognized was the Egg Salad sandwich. Hey, what’s this Really Gourmet thingy? Yellow Beets w/Goat Cheese and

Sautéed Onions. That sounds interesting; we’ll have one of those. Now about that big ol’ Carrot Cake sitting there

just ready to be sliced? How about giving us a chunk of that? We got our cake and a little number 6 and headed

into the ‘dining room’. Good lord, there are a dozen tables and only two of ‘em match. The place was furnished by

Goodwill. You take care of yourself in the Beachcomber. That means getting your own utensils, serviettes and water

… and you bus your own leavings. We were halfway through the Carrot Cake when Ms Lafayette brought our Really

Gourmet sandwich … served on a great, crusty bun. Half for me; half for Janie. Being the country bumpkins that we

are, neither of us had seen Yellow Beets before. Pretty good stuff. Before we left, we picked out some dessert to

celebrate AJ’s arrival: Chocolate Swirl Cake, Nut Bar and another slab of Carrot Cake. The to-go container was 3/4

of a paper egg-carton lid … no Styrofoam or paper cups at the Beachcomber. Reduce, Reuse, Recycle.

Next, we walked over to the Lighthouse to inspect the place and menu. If sufficiently interesting, we’ll come here

with AJ for dinner tomorrow. Oh yeah, it looks interesting. Where else can you get Mashed Potatoes in a

Cornmeal/Garlic/Rosemary/Chive Waffle Cone topped with Veggie or Beef Gravy and your choice of

Cheese/Bacon/Brisket/Clam or all of it. Like the Beachcomber, the place was small, and we were concerned bout

seating on a Saturday night. We were told around 4-5 should work.

The Lighthouse is practically in Murphy’s Grocery parking lot, so we ambled over there to check it out. Ah-ha, they

have Fish Brother’s Smoked Salmon in Garlic and Pepper varieties from Blue Lake CA. Not as local as Katy’s of

Trinidad, but more available. We got a couple packages of the Garlic, stashed in it DALAS’ refrigerator and headed

across the street to the three gift shops. Two of ‘em were pretty pedestrian, but the third was the real deal: The

Sea Around Us. It’s a family run operation involving a brother, sister, nephew, and who know who else. The brother

was there when we went in. Bill Snell reminded me of Bob Mahoney; slow talking, informative, and friendly once he

got on a roll. He was sitting at a wooden table sorting a pile of Dentalia, a tusk-shaped mollusk shell used in making

necklaces and earrings. He puts ‘em in bags and sells ‘em to those who want to make their own jewelry. The prices …

amazingly, $20 for 1,000 of ‘em. Janie picked out a couple necklaces that Bill said his sister, Karen, made

yesterday. They were alternating Dentalia, Pine Nuts & Glass Beads, with an abalone medallion. The Snell family

isn’t Native American, but the store is full of that sort of stuff. In fact, Bill was wearing a T-shirt commemorating

a big Pow-Wow. On the wall was a photo of Dad Snell holding baby Karen in a Native American cradleboard. It was

the kind of interesting place we want to patronize. Absolutely nothing made in China or otherwise false in The Sea

Around Us. Hell, they even had bracelets made of Cobra vertebrae … and very large Dentalia from Madagascar. Oh,

Carlos Nakai flute music was playing the whole time.

How’s five o’clock sound … sounds like time for AJ to place his little plane-wheels on the local tarmac. We parked

DALAS in the short-term lot and went into the terminal to wait. It was a nice big terminal with almost no clientele.

There was one, small United Airlines area and that was it. A few people were milling around, and then there was us,

trying to get a good place to see AJ come in. The whole place oozed sleepy, but modern, airport. We were in text

communication with AJ and … there he was zipping down the runway and taxiing up to the north end of terminal

where he secured his plane and tended to the end-of-flight stuff. Next, we saw him walking down the outside of

the terminal with a backpack on his back and a daypack on his chest. The boy is ready for anything. Hugs &

greetings and we were off to the campground for an appropriate, celebratory libation.

AJ’s arrival almost didn’t happen; at least not immediately. Just before we saw his plane coming in there was an

announcement that a United connector flight had been redirected back to San Frisco because of the fog. AJ said

he cut through it and was a bit surprised when he got a visual on the airstrip. He also said it was clear, blue sky

above, so all he had to do was drop through the ground fog and hope to see the landing strip. It all worked out

because he was flying a small, maneuverable plane. Yay!

Okay, AJ isn’t an only child, but he could easily qualify for membership in the DOOCs. A wall of words filled

DALAS’ cramped confines for the next day and a half. After some of the anxiety succumbed to a couple of Stouts,

Janie started cooking up 5 Colosimo Bratwurst (Salt Lake City product) which, along with some Broccoli Salad,

constituted our dinner. AJ had never had Dusseldorf Mustard … he liked it – at least he said he did. AJ is a 10-

year-younger version of Jason. So much so, we kept calling him Jason. Eventually, we settled for AJ-ason. That

works.

We sat around talking until about ten when AJ when to his tent and we went to our bed. Whew, what a day we’ve

had.

Saw: AJ land his plane at the airfield … and we got a life bird while waiting for him to arrive: Red Necked Phalarope at the Arcata Marsh.

Bushtit (and nest)

Red Necked Phalarope (life bird)

White Crowned Sparrow

Flowers (unknown, abundant & BIG)

Reflect:

Okay, AJ (and his squeeze, Karen) are two of the special people in our lives. They are former Geneseo students; AJ

was a Geology major, Karen was Math. Karen was busy this weekend, but AJ opted to fly from Carlsbad CA (near

San Diego) all the way up to very northern CA to meet us. This isn’t the first time he’s done this sort of thing. A

few years ago, he and Karen drove from Ft Collins CO to meet us at Teddy Roosevelt NP South in SD and spent a

weekend camping and hiking with a couple of old farts. That was impressive, but today’s trek topped it. It says a lot

about Geneseo connections. They seem to be very tight, considering its been decades since AJ was a student. Yeah,

it’s special, as are the students who continually replenish our hope for humanity.

Ate:

Granola

Really Gourmet: Yellow Beet Sandwich w/Goat Cheese & Sautéed Onions … Carrot Cake

Colosimo Bratwurst & Broccoli Salad and on the Dessert Tray: Carrot Cake, Nut Jam Bar, Chocolate Swirl Cake

Drive:

End: Patrick’s Point SP #106, Trinidad CA

Arrive: 12:05

Temp (degrees): 53

Elev (ft): 198

D (miles): 29

Mpg: 18.0

2019.05.11…SAT…Day 27: … Patrick’s Point SP, Trinidad CA 2 … Up: 6:16 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 58/52/58 Weather: Fog, Clearing

Did:

After morning beverages, we headed up to Redwood NP and the Kuchel VC to pick some trails to hike. Hmmm, again

we’ve arrived before a VC opened. Not to worry, we had our Granola in the parking lot with a covey of California

Quail. Inside the VC, we learned a little about the Geology – Jurassic rocks scraped off the descending plate – and

the trails - Lady Bird Johnson Grove & Trillium Falls. Off we go to walk among the giants. Well, not the really,

really big ones; you need a permit to do that. We settled for the regular big ones. One of my goals for this trip was

to walk through a Redwood forest and that’s what we did. It was impressive. There was evidence of fires that

scorched the Redwoods that are protected from all but the biggest fires by their thick bark (>6”). However, some

of them had succumbed to the burn and others to the weather. That left stumps and snags of epic size, but still

only echoes of their former selves. Some trees had blown down revealing their underpants … or roots as genteel

folks call ‘em. Redwoods don’t have tap roots, they prefer a widespread, shallow root system. The needles are

designed to condense fog and let it drip gently to the ground below to water the tree and understory plants. We

found ourselves walking from dry areas into the misty rain under the crowns of trees towering 200’-300’ over our

heads. There are more than Redwood present, however. Equally impressive Sitka Spruce, Douglas Fir, Hemlock and

Big Leaf Maple pop up here and there. I was surprised by the terrain. For some reason, I’d expected to be walking

through flats. Nope, these Redwoods were on slopes of respectable steepness.

After finishing the Lady Bird Johnson Trail, we translated over to the Trillium Falls Trail. It may have been more

impressive. More evidence of fire and a lot more evidence of severe weather. A few blowdowns blocked the path,

and rather than remove them, the park people sawed passages through the trunks. That allowed us to stand next to

a head-high cross-section of Redwood. It really is RED. It was lunch time when we finished the trail. We expected

to be (over)eating tonight, so we settled in for a light lunch of Beef Jerky (a gift from JenO), some Fish Brother’s

Garlic Salmon, and a slab of Costco Manchego Cheese. On the way back to camp, the damned Engine Light came on.

This has happened before, and it’s always gone out in a day or two … to repeat the cycle later. Let’s hope that trend

continues.

AJ planned to leave us tomorrow, but not until noonish. That’ll work for us; we’ll get to spend another night in

Patrick’s Point SP. That was our first stop after leaving Redwood NP … we needed to pay another $33 for our third

night in the campsite. After that, we headed to Trinidad to show AJ around. We took him to our now favorite gift

shop – Sea Around Us – to see if he could find something for Karen. He did. And Janie asked Karen (Bill Snell’s

sister from the cradleboard picture) to make some earrings to match her Dentalia/Pine Nut/Abalone necklace.

Come back tomorrow and they’ll be ready. Ah, shopping done, now it was time for a beer. We thought maybe we’d

get a brew at the Lighthouse while pondering what we might order. Hmmm, they only have three available, and they

didn’t sound too interesting. Yep, beer snobs. We had seen a place called The Eatery, so we ambled over there.

They have more beers available, but most of ‘em were Bud, Miller or Coors products. Fortunately, they had a few

other varieties, and we ordered up a trilogy: Alaska Amber, Anchor Steam, Guinness Stout. They hit the spot

nicely.

AJ volunteered to make breakfast tomorrow, so we stopped at Murphy’s for breakfast fixings … and more Fish

Brother’s Salmon. Then it was time for the Lighthouse. Hey, they aren’t crowded at all. The girl at the counter said

it was dependent on the weather. Today was foggy and overcast so not so many people. Geeze, that must be hard to

plan for in terms of supplies and such. Whatever, we studied the menu and settled on our orders. You just can’t go

to a place that serves Mashed Potatoes in a Waffle Cone and not get one, right? AJ went whole hog and got the All

The Way version with Mashed Potatoes, Gravy, Cheese, Bacon Bits and Brisket all contained within a

Cornmeal/Garlic/Rosemary/Chive Waffle Cone. I settled for lighter fare: Waffle Cone with Mashed Potatoes,

Veggie Gravy & Cheese … and I just had to try the Nut Burger: Veggie Burger w/Cashews, Pecans, Goat Cheese,

Sautéed Onions topped with Lighthouse Sauce. Janie had noted a Crab Waffle Cone Special on our first inspection

tour, but, alas, they were sold out of “Crab Cone”, so she settled for Blackened Rock Cod … not in a cone, but on an

actual plate. You know, it was all pretty good. The Cones stole the show, but the Nut Burger wasn’t far behind …

that Lighthouse Sauce had a nice kick on the Nut Burger and on Rock Cod.

Back to camp … we squeezed into DALAS for a nightcap and told stories until nearly 10. We hadn’t finished the

pastries from last night, so we cut the leavings into thirds and had at ‘em. It was a bit after 10:30 when we

finished, so we declared the day a success and headed to our respective sleeping quarters. You know, it’s beginning

to look like there is such a thing as too much fun.

Saw:

Lots of big ol’ REDWOODS. A dream come true for me. Appropriately, just as we pulled into the first trail head, a

Varied Thrush hopped out of the brush and displayed itself nicely for our enjoyment. We’ve seen ‘em before, but

never as close or brilliant orange as this one. Another Yay! We kept hearing sweet chirping in the trees, but they

were so tall, there was no hope of seeing the singer. Eventually, a Chestnut Backed Chickadee dropped down to a

shrub along the trail and we got a look at it. The visual was too fleeting for a picture; we’ll have to rely on our

mental image. Good luck with that, right. Varied Thrush

Chestnut Backed Chickadee

Reflect:

A walk in the woods is always good. A walk through a Redwood forest is even better. And doing it with a treasured

friend is better yet. Again, Mother Nature’s grandeur is hard to assimilate in real time. We’ll have to rely on our

pictures and flawed memories. It was especially appropriate that the trees were bathed in a light fog, the very

thing that sustains them. It wasn’t wet, but you could sense the dampness. We continue to encounter flowers that

are totally unknown, and a few that look familiar but seem to be on steroids. Everything here is super-sized it

seems. Great day, great friend, pass the beer nuts.

Ate:

Granola

Fish Brother’s Salmon, JenO’s gift Jerky, and a hunk of Costco Manchego

Lighthouse:

AJ: Mashed Potato Cone All The Way w/Beef Gravy, Bacon & Brisket

Us: Mashed Potato Cone w/Veggie Gravy & Cheese, Nut Burger, Blackened Rock Cod

Hike Data:

Trail: Lady Bird Johnson Grove & Trillium Falls Trails, Redwood NP, Orick CA

ST: ??

ET: ??

TT: ??

D (miles): 5.0

Drive:

End: Patrick’s Point SP #106, Trinidad CA

Arrive: ??

Temp (degrees): ??

Elev (ft): 198

D (miles): 50

Mpg: 18.0

2019.05.12…SUN…Day 28: … Patrick’s Point SP, Trinidad CA 3 … Up: 6:00 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 57/50/56

Weather: Fog & Overcast

Did:

AJ, dear boy that he is made Breakfast Burritos for us … and cleaned up after. It was just like we get when we

visit Jason. Okay, that’s the last AJ-ason reference, maybe. While AJ toiled, I made coffee and Janie took the

morning off. Hey, it’s Mother’s Day, which Janie isn’t, although she could be considered a ‘Geology Mom’. We didn’t

eat alone, the resident Brush Rabbit joined us, but s/he settled for grass, leaving more burrito for us. They are

smaller than our Cottontails, which makes ‘em even cuter.

After breakfast, we geared up and hiked the Rim Rock Trail along with several side trails that branch off down to

the coast. One of those side trails was Wedding Rock. Rock is the appropriate name; it went up onto a large rock-

mass overlooking the ocean. Here’s my question: if it is truly a Wedding Rock and weddings are held there, does the

bride dress before or after the climb? One answer: Before and her true friends carry her to the rock. Whatever,

it was a beautiful spot with grand views of the surrounding ocean.

Our next side trail went out to Patrick’s Point where we encountered a bird-counting couple. They had a telescope,

and a list of birds to look for and count. We will be forever in their debt because they pointed out a Life Bird:

Brandt’s Cormorant. That peaked our interest, so we started looking with greater urgency. After scanning the

water for a while, Janie spotted a Loon. It certainly wasn’t a Common Loon, and the only other Loon in the region is

the Pacific Loon – another Life Bird. Two Life Birds in a span of fifteen-minute. Plus Pelagic Cormorants which we

saw in Alaska several years ago. AND THERE’S MORE:

Then came the Rock Point Trail offering up views of big, blubbery Harbor Seals basking on the rocks. There were

also Seal Pups learning the lounging-life from doting parents. And … there was a Black Oystercatcher skipping

round on a rock otherwise festooned with Gulls of unknown type. We IDed the seals as Harbor because they are

expected here, have the proper size and characteristic coloration. According to our books, the only other option is

Sealion, which we could hear barking on down the way; these were definitely not Sealions. Harbor Seals it is.

Next stop: the VC. They had a book devoted entirely to Banana Slugs, which we didn’t see in the slimy flesh, nor did

we buy the book. We did look at the displays of Sumeg Indian artifacts. There were lots of tools, clothing, baskets

and a couple of harpoons. There was also a picture showing them in their dugout canoe harpooning a whale that was

right next to their boat. Outside, there was a replica of the canoe. It looked suicidal to be hunting leviathans in

such a small craft. But they did it. I guess it follows the human adage: we didn’t know it couldn’t be done so we went

ahead and did it.

There was a native flower garden with ID tags just outside the VC, and we walked that. We finally learned some of

the plant names we’d been ogling since arriving on the coast. Janie knew some of then by association with what we

have in the East, but these are on steroids – everything seems to be bigger here, like the trees. Rhododendrons are

tree-size, big enough to drive under and park in their shade. The Rhody flowers were equally large, dwarfing what

we have back home. Maybe they are shamed into growing big by just being in the presence of the Redwoods.

We walked through a re-creation of a couple Sumeg dwellings. Generally, they dig a pit, line it with wooden planks,

topped off with a plank roof. The entrance is a three-foot diameter hole in the front but off to one side. When we

were on our trip to AK, we learned that the natives didn’t cut down trees and then hew planks from them. Rather,

they hacked planks from the side of living trees. They got nice, long planks and didn’t kill the tree. Clever, eh?

Finally, back at camp we settled in for a Peanut Butter Sandwich lunch. We ate s-l-o-w-l-y because it was nearing

time for AJ to fly back to Karen’s waiting arms. But first, another stop in Trinidad to top AJ’s travel mug up with

some Beachcomber coffee. Back on US-101 and … the Engine Light is OFF. That was a welcome sign, unlike AJ

leaving. We pulled into a gate close to his plane, he filed his flight plan, and then we went out to the plane to kick

the tires and get it ready for a safe flight. Finally, we were forced to say bye, bye AJ-ason, we’ll see you again real

soon, we hope. We learned later that evening that he had a safe trip and Karen had a delicious cheesy snack ready

for Happy Hour.

We headed back to Trinidad one last time to pick up Janie’s earrings and feed DALAS some $4.25 diesel. Then it

was back to the CG, but before parking in our site, we stopped at the Patrick’s Point Overlook and lugged our

telescope and BIG lens out to positively ID the two Life Birds we’d seen earlier. Yep, that’s what they are, clear as

day. Done. While scoping the birds, a Polynesian fellow came up kind of whisper-shouting “Whale”. He pointed to a

boil on the water’s surface and said it would breach again up there, and then up there. Sure enough, a big, lumpy

back surfaced and he said: “Gray Whale, not Humpback.” We paid him back for pointing it out to us with a look

through our scope at the Black Oystercatcher. He knows whales a lot better than birds it seems. We chatted for a

while and learned he’s from coastal NC. We saw a sleek BMW in the parking lot with NC plates … all the others

were CA, OR or WA. Must have been his.

Finally, back in #106 with our Brush Rabbit. We hadn’t driven much today and there wasn’t enough sun to charge

our batteries. I put DALAS on high idle to juice ‘em up a little. Then it was time to start catching up with our notes

and pictures. Damn, the notebook was essentially dead, so I hooked up an auxiliary battery pack and typed away as

fast as I could before it crapped out. I managed to eek out two days of Trip Log … tomorrow we’ll see about

getting the rest done.

Saw:

Brush Rabbit

Pelagic Cormorant

Brandt’s Cormorant (life bird)

Pacific Loon (life bird)

Pigeon Guillemot

Black Oystercatcher

Gray Whale

Harbor Seal & Pups

Pocket Gopher

Twinberry

Redwood Sorel

Redwood Violet

Reflect:

Quiet & lonely … time to catch up on three days of blurrrr … AJ isn’t an only child, but he could easily qualify as

one. It’s official, we are alone again … and heading home. AJ is a great guest, like all our former students seem to

be. They just seem to raise good kids in NYS – at least the ones that end up at Geneseo. I’m not sure we are

worthy of their friendship, but we certainly are grateful that they think so. Ah crap, I’m getting weepy … hand me

anther beer, Janie.

Ate:

AJ’s Breakfast Burritos

Peanut Butter Sandwich

Beanie Weenies

Hike Data:

Trail: Rim Trail, Patrick’s Point SP

ST: ??

ET: ??

TT: ??

D (miles): 3.18

Drive:

End: Patrick’s Point SP #106, Trinidad CA

Arrive: 3:13

Temp (degrees): 55

Elev (ft): 209

D (miles): 29

Mpg: 17.9

2019.05.13…MON…Day 29: Patrick’s Point SP, Trinidad CA … to … Jedediah Smith SP/NP, Crescent City CA

Up: 6:06 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 57/52/55 Weather: Overcast-Sun PM

Did:

After four days/nights in the Eureka, Arcata, Trinidad area, it was time to move on to … hmmm, we haven’t had

time to look at a map or make any plans to not keep. Fortunately, there was only one option: US-101. We took that

north into Redwood NP where we’d been a couple days ago … or was it a couple months? Finally into virgin territory,

we opted for the former US-101 now called Drury Scenic Parkway. It was much more relaxed and allowed us to

drive slowly through more of the giant Redwoods, some growing right up to the pavement – or rather, since they

were first, the pavement was right on their toes. We came to what’s called Elk Prairie and guess what? We saw Elk.

There were a couple lying in the tall grass with just their ears sticking up, but down the way was a small heard of

bucks. The brochure IDed ‘em as Roosevelt Elk and the males had velvet-covered antlers growing for fall rut. All

too soon, the scenic parkway dumped us back onto US-101. We found Wilson Creek Pullout with an ocean view, and

that’s were we had our Granola – in the presence of another Black Oystercatcher. This was our last ocean view, so

we drank it in and tried to comprehend the significance.

All the pretty scenery came to a screeching halt as we approached Crescent City CA, the biggest town we’ve been

in for a while. Oh, look, there’s a Safeway. In we go to replenish a few supplies and pick up some fresh veggies &

fruit. They had tubs of Imitation Smoked Salmon Dip with added spice. Hmm, maybe an evening snack? And there

were some real Salmon fillets on sale for what we were assured by a customer was a good price. We scarfed it all

up along with some Potato Salad and a couple other items I don’t now remember, paid our dues and headed on down

the road. It was goodbye US-101 and hello US-199 heading eastward. Yep, we are officially homeward bound.

Ya know what? Jedediah Smith SP is just down the road a bit. We had “met” Diah Smith back in Fremont SP,

Sevier, Utah. Wonder where he was first? Don’t know, didn’t find out!

It’s getting on to noon, and we still have a lot of catching up to do. Let’s check it out, and if it meets muster, we’ll

hole up for the rest of the afternoon/night. Surprise, surprise, it looked great. We were greeted by yet another

bubbly Rangerette. This was her first day and she was practically giddy. She’s a local girl that bounces back and

forth between nearby Mill Creek SP & Jedediah Smith SP. Her family lives between the two and everything is

working out just dandy for her. Jedediah is another of those cooperative parks administered jointly by the state

and NP systems. Our Rangerette works for the NP but in a SP. We again learned that checkout time is noon and you

can’t register until 2:00 so they have time to clean up the sites. Hmmm, what to do for a couple hours? The NP

Hiouchi VC is less than a quarter mile down the road, and we went there to check it out. That’s where we met up

with a self-identified curmudgeon – a very friendly curmudgeon, however. He’s a retired firefighter, all stocky &

gnarly (think Wilford Brimley), with a ranger hat that has a Grumpy the Dwarf pin that bobbles when he moves.

The likeness on the pin matches the person beneath it. He filled us in on trails and back roads with good views and

even a road we could bike like he used to do. We mentioned our exchange with the Rangerette, and he said, “That

must be one of the Cox girls. Both of ‘em are now working at the park.” Yeah, he was all about local. Very

interesting, informative and brimming with character. He referenced his agedness several times, but I’m betting

he isn’t as old as me. However, there’s little doubt that he’s lived a fuller life.

It was only a little after one o’clock when we finished at the VC, so we went back to Jedediah Smith to see if we

just might be able to check in early. Nope. Our first Rangerette had been replaced by an equally young & bubbly

one with more experience. She informed us that since this is officially an NP place, we could display our Golden Age

Passport and use the day use area for free … and … get a campsite at half price. Great! We drove down to the day

use area, parked DALAS in the sun to keep charging our batteries and walked along the rocky edge of the gurgling

Smith River.

The park people are making changes in the driving pattern, so we had to drive all the way around the place to get

out. Along the way we passed the dump station. Hey, let’s take care of our utilities now when we have the time

instead of in the morning. That’s what we did. Finally, it was 2:00, and when we got to the registration booth …

there was already a line forming. We registered for #60, which we’d picked out on one of our several trips through

the park. The regular price is $34/night but we, in deference to our advanced age, get it for $17. See, getting old

does have some perks. So here we sit, on the bank of the Smith River, catching up with our office work as long as

our notebook batteries will allow. Another day spent in the company of the regal Redwoods, a couple of which are

lining our campsite. We don’t have a rabbit, but we do have a very active Chipmunk, which I haven’t yet had time to

ID. It’s still a little early for a brew, but that time is coming quickly.

Saw:

Oh man, we got to drive through more big Redwoods. Some were so close to the road we’d been able to touch ‘em if

the windows were down. The day went a little like this: Redwoods, Ocean, Elk Meadow with Elk, more Redwoods,

City (necessary evil), Raging River, still more Redwoods, Camp in the Redwoods. We only have one of the listed

items back home; guess which one. Roosevelt Elk

Redwoods (lots more, big ones)

Reflect:

I seem to have a variety of things to reflect on today. Let’s start with the silly and end with the more serious. We

passed several roadside places selling items related to the area - like statues of Sasquatch and the like. The one

that caught my irony-sensitive eye was a Redwood Tree chain-sawed from hunk of Redwood. Think about that a

moment. You cut down a perfectly healthy Redwood Sapling and whittle it into a bad replica of itself. All in the

name of pawning it off on some unsuspecting tourist.

The last few days have been punctuated by people with Selfie Sticks taking pictures of themselves with Redwood,

rocks, flowers, and/or ocean backgrounds. I’m not a Selfie advocate. Maybe I’m too shy and retiring. Right!

Whatever, I’ve come up with an alternate name for the Selfie Stick. I think of it as an Ego Stick. Look at me, look

where I am, I’m standing here looking back at my phone instead of the scenery around me. That scenery may as well

be a stage prop. Now that I’ve bad-mouthed Selfies, let me lay it on me. When we are camped in particularly scenic

sites, I tend to take a picture of DALAS and her surroundings. When we are back home and sitting in our

wheelchairs drooling, those pictures will serve to remind of us where we’ve been. Noble though that may be, it is

still a sort of Selfie, a DALAS Selfie, if you will. We all have egos, right?

Now for the more serious reflection. As of AJ’s departure, we are officially homeward bound. We began the trip

heading southward to gain a better climatic situation. Then it was go west, old man, go west until we hit the coast.

Now we are heading northward to get to the latitude of the northern-tier states through which we will drive east,

east, east until we hit water again, but this time it will be the freshwater of the Great Lakes. Well, mostly

freshwater if you don’t count the pollution introduced by population centers and industries. Whatever, we’re

homeward bound, but the adventure continues.

Ate:

Granola

(Imitation) Smoked Salmon Dip & Crackers

Big Ol’ Dinner Salad w/Kale, Brussel Sprouts, Tomato, Sunflower Seeds, Raisons, Croutons, a little Onion and

anything else that falls in it.

Drive:

End: Jedediah Smith SP/NP #60, Crescent City CA

Arrive: 11:30

Temp (degrees): 55

Elev (ft): 118

D (miles): 68

Mpg: 21.0

2019.05.14…TUE…Day 30: Jedediah Smith SP/NP, Crescent City CA … to … Collier Memorial SP, Chiloquin OR Up: 6:13 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 60/53/57 Weather: Overcast, Mist, Rain

Did:

And we were off, taking US-199 away from the Pacific and through the last of the Redwoods. The road passed

through a tunnel and shortly thereafter we were in OR. Redwood, Sitka Spruce & Western Hemlock were gradually

replaced by Ponderosa Pine and Douglas Fir, noble trees and stately in their own right. It quickly became clear that

we’d entered a Volcanic terrain. One clue: Crater Lake was just up the road. Another clue was the Table Land

formed when streams cut through a stack of flows leaving flat-topped areas in between. Soon we arrived at Cave

Junction OR, in the Illinois River Valley, where we had our Granola in a small wayside called Rough & Ready SP. The

Illinois Valley and others we passed through were flat-bottomed and broad, either choked with sediment or filled

with ash & lava … or both.

Medford OR appeared on our radar and we waved hello to Falcon NW Computers as drove by. That’s the birthplace

of my Falcon desktop – and Terri’s too. There may be another delivered to Naweedna soon. Oh, look, Diesel for

$2.95 … we pull in and learn it is Biodiesel. We still had a little over a half tank, so mixing the Biodiesel in shouldn’t

be an issue. You can’t beat the price, certainly not in Cali. Weird thing about Oregon fuel stations: they are full

service, not self-serve. We left Medford on OR-62 heading toward Crater Lake … but … we weren’t going to Crater

Lake, so we picked up OR-140 and vectored toward our camping destination. OR-140 breezes along in the valley …

for a while … and then climbs up, up, up to 5,100’ where there was still some snow left along the road. Snow was

more plentiful on nearby 9,495’ Mount McLaughlin. We noticed open areas between the trees that look kind of

bizarre. Close inspection revealed them to be masses of Basalt blocks, really large-grained AA Lava.

Unfortunately, most of the drive was tedious due to traffic, which wasn’t terrific. There are few roads and higher

population density translates into traffic. We experienced a few aggressive drivers, about the first we’d

encountered. Janie sensed my displeasure – my deep sighing and swearing at other drivers sorta gave it away – so

she put us on alternatives like Old this’n’that Road or smaller, more relaxed County Roads. Ahhh, much better … but

not long enough before dumping us back onto the busy highways.

One of the County Roads passed along the western edge of Upper Klamath Lake and then along the valley to the

north after the lake petered out. This is a large valley on the order of Surprise Valley in the NE corner of CA. Like

the other valleys we saw today, Upper Klamath was long, broad and flat. The dry northern part is rich pasture

populated by Angus cattle, some Sheep and a few Goats … and Mule Deer. We crossed the valley to get to Collier

Memorial SP, Chiloquin OR where we settled on #A8 for $29. Electric, we have electric for the first time in

several days. And there are showers, also much needed. But before showering, Janie changed the sheets &

pillowcases while I … watched. Well, I did fold the dirty ones so they’d fit where the clean ones once were. And I

cheered her on – Go, Janie, Go. In my defense, the bed area is entirely too small for two people to work, and since

she designed the bedding, she’s much better suited to do the changing. That’s my story and I’m stuck with it. And

now I’m no longer stuck to my sheets!

After our showers, we got out clean clothes for tomorrow and clean house clothes for tonight. Then we finished

off the (Imitation) Smoked Salmon Dip – which was quite tasty – and had a few bites of Cheddar before settling in

for our usual evening office duties. So here I sit … with no beer yet. What the … I better stop and pop a top of …

oh, let’s go for a New Belgium Fat Tire – another from JenO’s gift bucket. That girl …

Saw:

We saw our last Redwoods early this morning – likely the last we’ll ever see. We now know the names of a couple

trees we’d been seeing: Big Leaf Maple & Pacific Madrone. We also got a good view of a Golden Mantled Squirrel

right here in the campsite … and a definite Least Chipmunk. The entire campground is covered in pine needles deep

enough to smother almost all other vegetation. And in those pine needles, Oregon Juncos are pecking away at things

too tiny for us to see. We are no longer on the Pacific Coast or Redwood forest … or in Kansas, for that matter. Big Leaf Maple

Pacific Madrone

Golden Mantled Squirrel

Least Chipmunk

Reflect:

Today we took our first significant eastward trek; there will be more. Today’s drive took us back into Cascade

Volcanics, Ponderosa Pine & Douglas Fir … familiar but different at the same time. After four consecutive nights of

primitive camping, it’s nice to have electric. We also have water and sewer at the site, but don’t need it. I have to

say our 7-year-old batteries have performed surprisingly well. Not as well as new ones, but good enough to get us

through. The solar panels are a big help on those days when we don’t do much driving, but clouds and tree shade

reduce their efficiency appreciably. All in all, it’s worked out just fine. There will likely be more primitive camping

in our future.

What primitive camping lacks in facilities it more than makes up for in serenity. The sites are generally not

crowded or if they are, they are separated by vegetation, so you don’t see others. And you can’t beat the scenery.

Last night we were parked near some big Redwoods and tonight we are in a grove of Ponderosa Pine. Even the

worst-case scenario is better than most privates where you are literally packed in like Sardines in a can. Hmmm,

that reminds me; we haven’t had any Sardines for a while. Maybe tomorrow’s lunch, if I can remember.

Interesting observation: In the Redwoods, the ground was dry everywhere except under the trees. In the piney

woods, the ground was wet except under the trees. Simplest explanation: Fog for the Redwoods; Rain for the pines.

Ate:

Granola

Cheese Snack

Salmon Fillets & Broccoli Salad mixed with a bunch of leftover stuff & Raisins

Drive:

End: Collier Memorial SP, Chiloquin OR

Arrive: 2:29

Temp (degrees): 54

Elev (ft): 4198

D (miles): 195

Mpg: 19.5

2019.05.15…WED…Day 31: Collier Memorial SP, Chiloquin OR … to … Page Springs BLM CG, Frechglenn OR Up: 6:29 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 59/48/55 Weather: Overcast-Mist-Rain

Did:

A short, quiet, gentle drive out the Park Road unceremoniously dumped us onto US-97. OMG, my Garmin said the

speed limit was 55, so that’s what I settled in at. Everyone else seemed to think it was 100. A string of vehicles

stacked up behind and started passing from the rear forward. One passed and blew its horn. What? I’m doing the

legal limit; what’s your problem? Later it dawned on me that the limit might have been increased to 65 and my

Garmin hadn’t updated. Oops. Sorry! Driving US-97 was seriously jangling my nerves. Not only was it no fun, it

wasn’t safe. Janie to the rescue. She put us on County Road 676 AKA Silver Lake Road, and it was like alpha-omega.

There was essentially no traffic and great scenery. We were passing through the same Ponderosa & Lodgepole

Pines that we camped in last night. Very relaxing, and I could slow down and watch it all go by.

Eventually, we descended into one of those broad, flat essentially treeless valleys that looked like a 100,000-acre

manicured lawn. The mowing was done by cattle and Pronghorn, and they were certainly doing a fine job. Wonder if

they hire out? To our surprise, we came to Klamath Marsh NWR, but there was no access other than pullouts along

the road. I measured the valley at 10 miles wide and more than double that in length. There is a pattern to this

terrain: Valley-Volcanic Ridge-Valley … repeat several times over. The farther east we went, the dryer the

landscape became, turning into a ~4,500’ High Desert. We went from Ponderosa & Lodgepole Pines to Pinion Pine &

Juniper and finally into a Sea of Sage.

We had our Granola at a cattle-loading dock before leaving the valley and getting on US-395 heading northward to

Burns OR. This is desolate country, and you need to keep an eye on the fuel gauge. DALAS’ was sitting at a shade

over half, so we stopped at Christmas Valley OR to top up at the one and only station in this vanishingly small

community. Then it was onward to significantly larger Burns OR where we picked up OR-205 down to Malheur NWR.

Malheur is HUGE. It has a 42-mile Tour Road and an elegant VC. There were lots of people milling around outside

the VC – nearly all of ‘em had binoculars, cameras with big lenses or spotting scopes. These are pro/semi-pro

birders. Before we even got inside, we passed a couple whisper-talking to each other: “There’s a Warbling Vireo …

over here is a Cassin’s Vireo.” What have we got ourselves into? We talked to them a bit and learned they were

headed to the BLM CG, just like we were. We jokingly said it’d be a race for the last spot. Turns out that wasn’t

far from the truth. The CG is down OR-205, a mere 46 miles from the VC. I told ya it was big. The main road is

nicely paved and winds its way through a Volcanic scabland. Eventually, we got to Frenchglen OR, so named for the

two pioneer cattlemen, Peter French & his father-in-law Hugh Glen, where a gravel road takes off to the BLM CG.

Five miles of washboard later we discovered a nice campground with lots of other campers already set up.

Fortunately, there were still some sites left, and we settled for #1, paid our old-age half-price $4 and settled in

for the night.

Remember Christmas Valley? Well, appropriately, DALAS is parked on the banks of the Donner & Blitzen River. In

case you are as uneducated as I was, Donner & Blitzen is German for Thunder & Lightning. – seems kind of

testosterone-infused for two of Santa’s tiny Reindeer. The D&B River is running bank full, so we’re hoping there

isn’t any thunder & lightning up in them thar hills. We certainly don’t want to become part of the sediment load.

So here we sit, about 20 meters from D&B, watching the late arrivals trickle in. There are a few tenters, but most

are van campers like us, and a few big Class As. It’s a nice CG with the river on one side and a Lava wall on the

other. We’re typing our notes and researching where we might go next. We know what we’ll be doing tomorrow:

Malheur NWR. After that? About all we know is we’ll be heading east with some detours for good roads and

scenery. Hey, look at that. There’s a nearly full bottle of Southern Tier 2x Milk Stout in front of me. You know

what’s better than that? Not much.

Saw:

We think we saw a Prairie Falcon, maybe a couple of ‘em. The best view was one winging along beside us. I slowed

and it crossed over and swooped up to a utility pole. Our short observation revealed a bird about the size of a

Harrier, but lighter and without the characteristic white rump-patch. It seemed to have the falcon’s facial

pattern, but we couldn’t be certain. We’ll list it as a ‘probable’ and hope to see another one for a more definite ID.

Once in Malheur, we started seeing all the usual suspects: Phalarope, Stilt, Ibis, Crane, Goose, Teal, Coot, Grebe

and lots of Red Tail. We’ve seen more Cinnamon Teal on this trip than all the others combined. They are

appropriately named. We also got a few FOTs: Western Tanager

Great Horned Owl (chick, big chick)

Black Chinned Hummingbird

Prairie Falcon (probable?)

All the usual suspects

Porcupine

Reflect:

Janie picked up this very revealing item from today’s news headlines:

56% of Americans say: Don’t teach Arabic numerals to our kids.

Now, if that’s true, it is an exceptionally sad commentary on our supposed advanced society. I fully expect that

everyone reading these words is aware of the origin of our number system. I also expect you are aware of the

rampant racism and phobias that are soiling our societal ideals and principles. Again, it may not be true, but if it is

even slightly true, it would suggest that half the population should be prevented from making significant public

decisions … like voting.

Ate:

Granola

Sardine Sandwich w/Mustard

Pesto Chicken w/Mixed Veggies on Pasta

Drive:

End: Page Springs BLM CG #1, Frenchglen OR

Arrive: 3:42

Temp (degrees): 53

Elev (ft): 4260

D (miles): 277

Mpg: 20.0

2019.05.16…THU…Day 32: Page Springs BLM CG, Frenchglen OR … to … The Narrows RV Park, Princeton OR Up: 6:24 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 53/47/53 Weather: Overcast & Rain

Did:

It rained enough last night that I got up to check on the Donner/Blitzen River – no change, it just kept chuggin’

along like it had a train to catch. The morning dawned relatively clear, but that changed in a hurry. It was either

misting or raining most of the day. No biking for us; we’d have been drenched like some of the birds we saw. The

Tour Road takes off near the campground, and we were rumbling along on the heavily wash-boarded gravel by 7:30.

By ten we were all of 10 miles down the road. There was a convenient pullout and that’s where we had our Granola …

and did a little calculating. If the Tour Road is 40 miles long, and it took us 2.5 hours to cover 10 miles, how long

would it take to finish? I’m going with answer B: 10 hours. Maybe we better speed up a little. Another reason to

speed up is to get better mileage. When we stopped for breakfast, we were getting all of 7 mpg. Last night I

estimated that we’d get 10 mpg and burn up 4-5 gallons of diesel, which would leave us with less than a half tank to

cover the 100+ miles to the nearest fuel depot. However, averaging significantly less than 10 mpg would be cutting

it a little thin. I cranked DALAS up to 20 mph, the lowest cruise control setting, and rumbled even harder down

the road. It worked, DALAS got all the way up to 14 by the end of the day, and we now have plenty of fuel to get

us back to civilization – we hope.

The rain kept most of the other birders at bay, so we pretty much had the road to ourselves. Several habitat

changes occur in the 40 miles, and that means lots of different birds. Janie tallied 60 species but only 3 of ‘em

were FOTs. The scenery was as special as the birding. The valley walls are stacks of lava flows cut here and there

by tributary streams. We passed through Willow thickets, grassland and Sage flats, interspersed with open water

and marsh. Like I said, lots of habitats. The Refuge is in the Donner/Blitzen River Valley that formed along a

weakened area known as the Brother’s Fault Zone and represents the northern end of the Basin & Range we drove

through in NV. Erosion has left flat-topped butts capped with Basalt flows, but the most prominent feature in the

area is 10,000’ Steen’s Mountain extending some 35 miles along the west side of the valley. Steen’s is a fault block

that dips gently westward, but the eastern boundary is much more abrupt, dropping 5,000’ into the Alvord Desert

in the mountain’s rain shadow.

When we finished the 40 Miles of Bad Road (look it up), we found ourselves back at the VC … and Gift Shop. A little

walkabout netted some interesting things (see Saw below) as did the Gift Shop. The sales lady was in our

generation and, as you might expect, friendly and informative. She confirmed our ID on Belding’s Ground Squirrel

and California Quail and offered up advice about where to go in ID. There was a young family in the shop: Mom, Dad

& four young’ns. They were amazingly well behaved and fun to watch. The kids had been given $10 to spend on

whatever they wanted, and it was a hoot listening to them go about bleeding every last cent out of the ten spot.

We met up with them a little later where they’d spotted a Great Horned Owl in a tree. The father and I had a

little conversation about my camera & lens. Janie & I had decided he reminded us of Brian Sheldon, so I explained

that to him in the context of our Geneseo family.

Finally, it was time to call it a day and settle on a place to camp. We’d passed a private RV place just down the road,

and as much as we’d rather go back to the BLM CG, it was just too far. It would be 50 miles down and 50 back,

which didn’t seem prudent in view of our fuel situation. We pulled into the place and started negotiating for a

campsite. The woman said they charge less for smaller vehicles because they assume we’ll be taking a shower, which

costs $2 for 4 minutes. Ha! The jokes on you lady; we’re not going to take a shower. It’s a captive audience here so

the prices are high. The diner menu had things like omelets for $16 and simple dinners for $18 … and homemade

cookies for $3.50 each. So how much did our full-hookup site cost? $26.46. A bit steeper than last night’s $4 and

not nearly as serene but necessary to do our utilities and get ready for our next jump eastward. BTW there was

better ATT connection in the “primitive” cg than in the private cg near the main road and largest town!

I’m sitting here clattering away on my notebook between sips of Founders All Day IPA … I seem to be getting

hooked on it. Time to continue my sipping while editing the 100+ pictures I took today. Chow for now.

Saw:

We spent the day in Malheur NWR and saw lots of stuff: scenery, water, quasi-desert, Basalt, swollen river, and

birds, of course. The Tour Road only netted 3 FOTs of the 60 species we saw. The Bobolink was something we

haven’t seen in a while, as was the Short Eared Owl flying low over the ground looking for its breakfast.

Surprisingly, we hadn’t seen a Yellow Warbler until today. Some of the best viewing happened at the VC, however.

It’s located in a grove of trees, a rare commodity in this region, and that attracts wildlife. Yesterday, we saw a

Great Horned Owlet, and we saw it again today. We also saw one of the parents. A snag at the edge of the pond

had two very wet Red Tailed Hawks perched in it. They looked really pissed. One of them sat on the tip-top branch,

faced into the wind and spread its wings to dry. Never saw anything like that before. A bit later, we saw a Red Tail

carrying something big in its talons. We followed its flight until it disappeared in a tree. Then there was a bunch of

jumping around – it was a nest and dad was bringing in supper – more than a loaf of bread and carton of milk. And it

didn’t end there. The little tree next to our campsite is the future home of a Western Kingbird family. We

watched it bring in sticks and fuss with ‘em. So far, it’s kind of puny, but I’m sure it’ll all work out. Oh, we finally

got a good shot of a California Quail. He was sitting on a fence post alternately preening and proclaiming his

dominance over his turf. And the back row of the cg, which we normally prefer, was closed off due to the Killdeer

nest and recently hatched triplets. We went to see them, then were appalled at how much trauma the parents went

through truing to lure us away from the little ones with their “follow me, I have a broken wing, you can catch and

eat me, just leave my babies alone” feint.

Now for the mammals we saw. There was a Nuttall’s Cottontail in the middle of the Tour Road. A trail around the

VC provided a Pygmy Rabbit … small enough to hold in your hand – but we didn’t try. Then there were the many many

Belding’s Ground Squirrels. The open areas around the VC and Gift Show was overrun with ‘em. A Least Chipmunk

hopped up on a stone wall right in front of us and disappeared before I could get the camera on it. Yeah, it was a

wildlife-filled day. Yellow Warbler

Bobolink

Short Eared Owl

Nuttall’s Cottontail

Pygmy Rabbit

Belding’s Ground Squirrel

Least Chipmunk

Reflect:

Last night we watched the Gray Beards/Heads walking around camp with their binos & spotting scopes. They’d stop,

point and everyone in eyesight would follow the azimuth to a bird. After a bit of watching people watching birds, it

became evident that this was a special population. All in the same generation … and … all thin and healthy looking.

You don’t see that combination in most campgrounds.

Tonight is a slightly different story. We are by far the smallest camper in the lot and there isn’t a tent to be seen.

It’s still a bit different from most RV Parks in that the clientele is mostly bird watchers, but it’s still an RV Park

with all the pluses and minuses.

Ate:

Granola

Peanut Butter & Cracker

Zatarain’s Dirty Rice w/extra Rice & Beans to dilute the salt

Drive:

End: The Narrows RV Park #10, Princeton OR

Arrive: 3:03

Temp (degrees): 49

Elev (ft): 4093

D (miles): 46

Mpg: 14.5 (40 miles of Refuge road)

2019.05.17…FRI…Day 33: The Narrows RV Park, Princeton OR … to … Stanton Crossing IDFG, Bellevue ID Up: 5:18 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 55/43/48 Weather: Overcast, Rain, Wind

Did:

We awoke to a stiff NW wind pelting us with rain. Reluctantly, we left Malheur NWR and headed back to Burns OR.

So how important is Malheur to OR? It seems OR celebrates Malheur Day on what the rest of us call Memorial Day

… or MemHorribleDay as Janie calls it. When we got back to Burns OR, we pulled into a filling station on US-20, our

road for the day, and a nice young man came out to pump our diesel. Yeah, OR has gas station attendants like I

remember from my formative years. I chatted with the attendant for a bit while the meter cha-chinged away some

of Mark’s money. I remarked about the blustery weather and was greeted with: “Yeah, Seneca is supposed to get 4’

of snow.” Uh, where’s Seneca? “Just up the road off US-395. That close!!! Recalculating …

You see, there’s this little thing called the Idaho Batholith that must be negotiated. The road we’d planned to take

skirted it on the east side, headed up to Chief Joseph Pass and then back south. We’d been that way before and

stayed in Sitting Bull NFCG where we were privileged to see Dippers in the cool waters of a mountain stream. We

wanted to repeat that experience. But not if it’s going to be snowing, and/or uncomfortably cold. Recalculating

…We opted for a more southerly route that took us to Boise. More about that later. Let’s take it a step at a time.

We took US-20 out of Burns OR passing through a canyon cut into a thick sequence of Volcanic material. The

‘cutter’ was none other than the North Fork of the Malheur River. It has done a lot of work over the millennia. We

crossed the time zone and made use of a pullout on the west side of Harper OR for our Granola stop. We were

driving through a major agricultural area with large fields already planted and many more ready for planting.

Planting what? A big sign revealed the answer: Onion Capital of The World. Onions! Lots and lots of Onions … to go

with Idaho Potatoes for Hash Browns fried up nice and crispy, maybe a little Catsup … but I digress.

Boise … Bois is French, or at least French-Canadian, for tree, hence Boise, pronounced boy-see, not boy-zee. If we

were to avoid noon-time Boise traffic, we’d have to get on I-84 … for 100 miles … to where US-20 takes off. That’s

a hundred miles of very few smiles. The speed limit is 80, there are lots of trucks and other assorted traffic all

traveling too fast for the rain & wind conditions. When we finally got off, I took a few minutes to shake out my

hands and get the blood back into my knuckles. We passed an accident on the other side – traffic was backed up

for a couple miles. It was a sobering sight that I didn’t need to see, the accident or the traffic. We exited I-84 at

Mountain Home ID where we made two rights and pulled into a Walmart parking lot. We were running low on

dehydrated milk and Walmart has it in convenient 1-qt packets that minimize dusting DALAS with fine milk powder.

We also needed Walnuts, Bananas and a couple other items … and fuel. Hmmm, this Walmart has electric-car

charging-stations but no diesel. Not to fear, there were two stations just the other side of the freeway. We chose

the Chevron because it was a nickel less than the Pilot across the road. Go figure.

US-20 was a breeze compared to the Interstate. A little too much traffic for my liking, but certainly manageable.

So we’re zipping down the road to … dunno. It’s getting late, we’re tired of this driving, where can we hole up for

the night? Janie found a private that’s open year-round and relatively cheap for full hookups and showers. When we

got to it, we quickly turned up our noses and continued toward Peekaboo ID where there was another private. If

that wasn’t sufficient, we’d continue on to Craters of the Moon NM. However, that would make a 400-mile day, and

we wouldn’t get there until after five. We kept our eyes pealed and … look there’s one of those NF camping symbols

pointing to … a place where there are some RVs. We did a U-turn and pulled in to check it out. Ah, this is the place

Janie read about earlier. It’s run by the IDFG, which was a new one for us. It turns out the ID is Idaho and the FG

is Fish & Game. It’s a place for fisherpeople to camp and fish the very full and angry-looking Big Woods River.

There are no official campsites, you just park and camp. We found a level spot and settled in.

It was good to get off the road, but it’s still raining like it has been for the last four days. A quick review of the

weather map revealed two big low-pressure areas passing over this part of the country and dumping rain or snow,

depending on elevation. We’re free of snow here, but the rain continues to pitter-patter on DALAS’ roof. As fate

would have it, we seem to be moving eastward at about the same rate as the rain. Not much we can do in this

weather other than drive, so drive we will.

So here we sit doing our regular evening chores. I’m having a Founders Porter that’s requesting more direct

attention. Then it will be dinnertime followed closely by bedtime. The routine continues. Hello, Mr. Porter!

Saw:

Rain, low-hanging clouds, snow-capped mountains, fast moving rivers and lots and lots of volcanic rock. There were

some nice valleys interspersed with the rock outcrops and signs warning of Deer & Elk migration. We didn’t see

either. We did see lots of Hawks. They’ve been socked in by the weather and finally forced out by metabolic

necessity. Most of ‘em were perched on utility poles and looking pissed like those we saw … yesterday … was it only

yesterday? Yep, that’s the way time expands when you’re traveling. Yesterday we were in Malheur NWR, today

we’re in a much less scenic IDFG CG. Tomorrow? I’ll let you know when I find out.

Reflect:

Let me make a brief comment about Interstate driving. For us, it’s an occasional necessary evil, but almost never

enjoyable. Today was a good example. Way too much traffic travelling at a ridiculous speed. I found myself

contemplating the contact area of our tires on the pavement. If drivers considered how little there is compared to

the vehicle weight, they might just slow down to ensure reasonable breaking distance. You can have the most

expensive vehicle possible, but it is still only as safe as its tires and the tire/pavement contact area. But most

drivers don’t consider this parameter and that forces me to drive much faster than I’d like just to keep from

becoming a traffic hazard. Nope, give me a little backroad with wide-open spaces where I can putz along at what I

consider to be a safe rate. Where do you find such roads?

Okay, one more thing about Interstates – I promise. BAWB & Char have a saying: “Remember where you are.” That

is particularly important in AK, but it’s applicable to other places as well. While driving along on I-84 today, I had

to force myself to remember where we were. We were in ID, not NY or any other state. It was Idaho. Why?

Because just about everything I could see was the same as any other Interstate in any other state. The big

difference: the few volcanic rock outcroppings that remained after road construction … and Magpies. It was kind

of depressing. Again, give me the backroads where I can experience the local environment and culture.

Speaking of wide-open spaces. I continue to be impressed by the bigness of the land out here. Today, I looked up

ahead and saw a couple specks coming down a mountain side. Those specks were vehicles several miles distant. That

just doesn’t happen in the cramped confines of the east. As I continued to ponder these wide-open spaces, I

started wondering about westerners who’d lived out here most of their lives. What do they think when they visit

the east? I expect they would feel “clusterphobic”. I know I did under similar circumstances.

My first duty station was Ft Huachuca AZ, between Tucson and the border. I spent a few months in that Sonoran

Desert environment and got used to its sparseness … liked it in fact. I got leave before being shipped off to

Vietnam and came home to OH in what happened to be a very wet spring. The trees were in leaf and the roadsides

were lush with un-mowed vegetation. I had the sensation of driving through a green tunnel. Although I’d spent all

my life in such an environment, it seemed alien after getting used to the desert. I expect westerners would have a

similar reaction.

Ate:

Granola

Gorgonzola Cheese Snack, maybe a cracker or two but who’s counting?

Leftover Zatarain’s Dirty Rice Roll Ups w/Cheese, Onion, Salsa

Drive:

End: Stanton Crossing IDFG, Bellevue ID

Arrive: 4:01

Temp (degrees): 51

Elev (ft): 4853

D (miles): 347

Mpg: 20.7 (Interstate, Mtns, Wind)

2019.05.18…SAT…Day 34: Stanton Crossing IDFG, Bellevue ID … to … Craters of the Moon NM, Arco ID Up: 6:31 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 53/41/45 Weather: Fog, Clear, Overcast, Rain, Hail

Did:

Another grueling drive-day … all of 46 miles … through the same agriculturally productive valley we were in

yesterday afternoon … and then we came to lava fields and Craters of the Moon NM. We were here in 2015 on our

way back from meeting up with BAWB & Char in AK. It was August then and 90o. That wasn’t the case today. We

started in fog that quickly lifted to reveal a bright sun. We’re now heading east, so it was smack in our faces. The

decision to hole-up in Craters of the Moon was an easy one. We can bike the road, like we did the last time, and we

can enjoy the exotic terrain … and maybe see some wildlife. Besides, it’s free to us old farts. The camping isn’t

entirely free, however; we coughed up $7.50 for site #32 overlooking a field of blocky AA Lava that emanated

from the nearby cider cone. After settling in, we geared up, had our Granola and headed down the park road.

Hmmm, it seems to be spitting rain, and there is a very ominous looking cloud over the mountains to our west. Hey,

we got gear, let’s do this thing. Pretending we were John Muir, we cycled on.

After a couple miles, it started raining a serious sort of rain. We had on our raingear, so it wasn’t all that bad. Hey,

look, the cinder cone that should be black is … white. That’s when the hail started. It was only pea-size, but it still

stung our faces. Our bike computers dropped from 45o to 35o. We took refuge under a Limber Pine and hoped the

rain would relent. It didn’t. Discretion/Valor … it was early, so we decided to go back to DALAS and hope for

better weather later. We had planning to do, and we could use the Internet to check the weather. OMG, it’s going

to be 30o with possible snow where we’d hope to go. We looked at other routes, but they didn’t seem as appealing –

most involved at least some Interstate driving. At least we aren’t facing the weather they are having in the mid-

continent: tornadoes and hail big enough to kill animals, including humans. Maybe a little slushy snow isn’t so bad,

comparatively. We’ll see how it shakes out tomorrow.

Around three, the clouds lifted a little, and it looked like it might clear up later. The bikes were out, as was our

gear. Why not try it again? The tour road consists of a loop with some spurs off to interesting features. The tour

road’s main objective is Inferno Cone. Now you might think there would be some climbing involved to get to the

Inferno … and you would be right. Janie bravely tried, but was too wet, tired and too unsteady to bike a narrow

road with large campers driving by too fast. She headed back to DALAS which turned out to be the right decision.

I pedaled on just to earn the beer I hope to be drinking later. It was steep, for us anyway. Jason would have

breezed up it and then come back to help me along. The climb up was significantly gentler than the way down. I

easily broke the 25-mph speed limit. Back at camp, the weather was steadily improving, so we decided to walk

around and see what we could see. The first thing we saw was our neighbor camp’s awning collapsed on the ground.

There wasn’t that much wind, so it must have been a malfunction. After the walk, we put our gear away, racked the

bikes and settled in for the evening.

So here I sit typing away between glances of volcanic rubble in the foreground and a steep-sided cone on the

horizon. Interestingly, at the moment, there is a small Cumulus cloud perched right on top of the cone making it

look like an eruption smoke-plume. These eruptions began 15,000 years ago and the most recent was 2,000 years

ago. The area is still active, so there will be more … some day … we hope not while we’re here. It’s all part of what’s

called the Great Rift and is related to the movement of the American Plate over a hot spot that currently sits

under Yellowstone. At least that’s what I recall from my working years.

We didn’t take time for a lunch snack, so my Southern Tier 2x Milk Stout is going directly to my head. Think I

better stop before I say something even more stupid than usual.

Saw:

Lots of Basaltic Volcanic: AA, Pahoehoe, Lava Tubes, Lava Bombs, Cinder Cones … all immersed in Ash & Cinders

from fine- to pebble-size. We saw our first Cassin’s Finch perched in a tree and trilling away. Janie saw a Chikaree,

the first we’ve ever knowingly seen. It’s the western equivalent of our Red Squirrel, not as colorful and lives in

among the rocks. And lots of Brewer’s Blackbirds hopping around on the rocks. And Ravens, lots of Ravens. After

the rain, there were about ten of them catching the wind where it was channeled through a saddle between cinder

cones. They were doing their bonding thing: acrobatically flying in tandem, taking a death dive together and

wheeling out just at the last moment. Really neat … they seemed as happy about the rain stopping as we were. Cassin’s Finch

Chikaree

Reflect:

Not a reflection as much as an observation: Janie’s bike computer leaked. Yeah, it rained that hard. Water and

electronics don’t play well together, so it is officially kaput. Fortunately, we have a spare. Now if I can only

remember her wheel-circumference setting. Oh yeah, we have that recorded in a spreadsheet. Now if my notebook

battery lasts long enough to finish this document … and look up the setting.

Today’s drive into the morning sun was a blatant reminder that we are heading home. We’re not ready to go home,

but we must ... sometime. It’s a real approach/avoid issue. Do we keep putzing around in the mountains and then

take a leisurely drive through the plains … or … do chunk driving like yesterday? Originally, we’d hoped to be off

the road by Memorial Day. It doesn’t look like that’s going to happen. The weather may force our hand, however.

It’s cold, even snowing, north of here and there are terrible storms heading east from the mid-continent. The

cause seems to be a couple big low-pressure areas moving through our current latitude. They are sucking cold air

down behind them, hence the cold north of us. Where the cold meets warm, moist Gulf air, you get seriously bad

weather like they are experiencing south and east of us. I firmly believe the weather is becoming increasingly

severe as the atmosphere/oceans warm. I read that the CO2 levels are the highest they’ve been in a few hundred

thousand years. We, or more likely you, and even more likely your children, and certainly their children are going to

experience climatic conditions that last existed when Dinosaurs ruled the planet. It’s about the only thing that

makes me grateful to be old.

Ate:

Granola

Sesame Chicken w/Peanut Butter on Rice (oops, made with Tuna by mistake ;-)

Bike Data:

Trail: Craters of the Moon NM, Arco ID

ST: 10:30 & 3:00

ET: 12:00 & 4:00

TT: 2:30

BT: 1:20

D (miles): 13

Mx (mph): 8.3

Avg (mph): 28.3

Drive:

End: Craters of the Moon #32, Arco ID

Arrive: 9:24

Temp (degrees): 44

Elev (ft): 5869

D (miles): 46

Mpg: 18.1

2019.05.19…SUN…Day 35: Craters of the Moon NM, Arco ID … to … Wakeside Lake RV Park, Rexford ID Up: 5:48 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 51/40/44 Weather: High Overcast

Did:

The day began with a slow drive around the Tour Loop where we relearned that most of the pines are not Pinion but

Limber Pines. They are appropriately named because their limbs readily bend in the wind. They only occur in a few

isolated spots west of the Rockies, and this is one of ‘em. After completing the loop, it was time to bid farewell to

Craters of the Moon NM and get back on US-20 – in this area, combined with no less than three other US highways

(and still not too busy). We were retracing our route on our return from AK and recognized many of the cultural

phenomena. One of those being Arco ID. It has an interesting history as outlined in Wikipedia:

Originally known as Root Hog, the original town site was five miles south at the junction of two stagecoach lines (Blackfoot-Wood River and

Blackfoot-Salmon). A suspension bridge that crossed the Big Lost River funneled traffic through the settlement. The town leaders applied to

the U.S. Post Office for the town name of "Junction".

The Postmaster General thought the name too common and suggested that the place be named Arco for Georg von Arco (1869–1940) of

Germany who was visiting Washington, D.C. at the time. Georg von Arco was an inventor and a pioneer in the field of radio transmission and

would become the lead engineer of Telefunken, a German company founded in 1903 that produced radio vacuum tubes. The town later moved

four miles southeast when the stage station was moved to Webb Springs at Big Southern Butte. When the Oregon Short Line Railroad arrived

from Blackfoot in 1901 the stage lines became obsolete and the town of Arco moved northwest to its present site.

Arco was the first community in the world ever to be lit by electricity generated solely by nuclear power. This occurred for about an hour on

July 17, 1955, powered by Argonne National Laboratory’s BORAX-III reactor at the nearby National Reactor Testing Station (NRTS), which

eventually became the site of the Idaho National Energy Laboratory, a predecessor of the current Idaho National Laboratory. NRTS made

further history on January 3, 1961, when the SL-1 reactor was destroyed through an operator maintenance error, with the ensuing steam

explosion causing the deaths of all three personnel present. It was the world's first and the United States' only fatal reactor accident.

We translated over to ID-33 just beyond Arco and drove through miles and miles of land controlled by the Idaho

National Laboratory. The land area was impressive. Time for Granola … but there were no pullouts on our side roads

in the confines of the IDNL, so we settled for the West Jefferson ID High School athletic complex. The few

towns we passed through had church parking lots filled with dusty pickups … it’s Sunday and these people go to

church. Hard to imagine where they all came from, the area appears almost uninhabited. The churches were still

busy through the noon hour.

Our previous passage through this area took us to the Camas NWR where we netted two life birds. We decided to

check it out today and see if we get lucky again. To get there, we had to take I-15 (same one we were on in the Salt

Lake City area) and get off at the first exit for the very sleepy collection of dilapidated buildings known as Hamer

ID. The town consists of a PO, church & elementary school surrounded by a few, well-used houses, that’s it. Of

course, the church was packed like all the others we saw. After driving the one city block that constitutes Hamer,

we got on Old Butte Highway, and after 5.5 miles, arrived at Camas NWR. We spent an enjoyable hour and a half on

the well-maintained tour roads – no washboard and few ruts. Camas isn’t world class, but it is very nice with lots of

good views that offer close observation … and we had the whole place almost to ourselves.

Time to find a place to camp. We were near Rexford ID where we stayed in an interesting private CG last time.

Janie called ‘em up but … number no longer in service. I guess Connie Thompson has moved on, one way or the other.

Okay, how about this one: Wakeside Lake RV Park? The office was closed on Sunday, but an answering machine told

us there were sites and a self-registration station, which turned out to be a repurposed telephone booth. Every

time I see one of those old booths, I’m reminded of the drunk who was calling for someone to come pick him up.

Where are you? Ummm, at the corner of telephone and telephone, he slurred.

After feeding DALAS, we pulled into Wakeside Lake RV Park and signed up for #27 for $33. Kind of steep

compared to our last two campsites: free & $7.50. However, it has full hookups and that means we can do our

utilities, not have to agonize over batteries (camper & devices) … and … take a shower. All needed and welcome

occurrences. So here we sit, all squeaky clean, doing our office chores while watching other campers fussing with

their leveling, slide outs, hookups, window covers and whatever else they do. I’m having my last bottle of Joe

George’s Hamburg Lager and enjoying very much, thanks, Joe.

Saw:

We’d just pulled into Camas NWR and were getting a refuge map, when a largish, very dark hawk soared into view. I

took pictures, but even then, we couldn’t get a positive ID. Most likely it was a Dark Phase Swainson’s Hawk. That’s

the best we could do. Things got a little better in the ID department after that. We saw a Swan sitting on a nest

and IDed her as belonging to the Tundra clan … our most positive Swan ID on the trip. Then, while we were

watching a Long Billed Curlew, a pair of Black Bellied Plovers swooped in. It was a rare sighting for us … and

according to the wildlife list, a rare occurrence at Camas. Finally, we got our first Canvasback of the trip. It was an

hour and a half well spent. It meant we didn’t make much progress today, but doing these wildlife things is a

primary reason for traveling in the first place. Limber Pine

Black Billed Magpies (lots & lots)

Hawks (unidentifiable, perched on utility poles or soaring)

Trumpeter Swan (positive ID, on nest)

Black Bellied Plover

Canvasback

Reflect:

What a difference a day makes. Last night we were immersed in a sea of Volcanic Cinders & Lava Flows. Tonight, we

are within earshot of a very busy highway. As with most private CGs, the sites are cheek-to-jowl separated by

scraggly-looking Cottonwoods. Last night’s view was a field of cinders and flows creeping up the side of a Cinder

Cone – very natural, pleasant & relaxing. Tonight, we have an artificial lake with water-ski jumps and a couple of old

guys flinging baited hooks into it. Last night we had Chikaree, Cassin’s Finch & Brewer’s Blackbird to look at.

Tonight, it is American Robin and Weaver Finch (House Sparrow/Old World Sparrow). Yep, big difference.

When you start doing this traveling/camping thing, you quickly learn that everything is a tradeoff. Tonight, we’ve

traded pleasant scenery and interesting wildlife for traffic noise and close campers. But … we got to do our

utilities and take a shower. You can’t do any of that in Craters of the Moon NM. We’ve had our fair share of bucolic

campsites; a few private CGs thrown in from time to time is okay. It seems unrealistic to do either exclusively.

Ate:

Granola

Gorgonzola & Crackers

Chorizo (1) & Kielbasa (1) & Potato Salad

Drive:

End: Wakeside Lake RV Park #27, Rexford ID

Arrive: 2:04

Temp (degrees): 58

Elev (ft): 4877

D (miles): 148

Mpg: 18.4 (wind & refuge)

2019.05.20…MON…Day 36: Wakeside Lake RV Park, Rexford ID … to … Ackley Lake SP, Hobson MT Up: 5:53 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 54/44/50 Weather: Overcast, Rain, Snow

Did:

We pulled out of Wakeside and drove down to ID-33 then over to US-20, a four-lane highway heading north out of

Rexford ID. Most of the traffic was going to Rexford, so we were gladly swimming upstream. It was blustery with

a stiff wind out of the NE … and we were going … NE. Yay! Last night, with the aid of a good Internet connection, I

learned a bit about the geology we’d been passing through and were going to encounter today. From Wikipedia:

The western Snake River Plain is a large tectonic graben or rift valley filled with several kilometers of lacustrine sediments; the sediments are

underlain by rhyolite and basalt and overlain by basalt. The western plain began to form around 11–12 Ma with the eruption of rhyolite lavas and

ignimbrites.

The eastern Snake River Plain traces the path of the North American Plate over the Yellowstone hotspot, now centered in Yellowstone National

Park. The eastern plain is a topographic depression that cuts across Basin and Range mountain structures, parallel to North American Plate

motion. It is underlain almost entirely by basalt erupted from large shield volcanoes. Beneath the basalts are rhyolite lavas and ignimbrites that

erupted as the lithosphere passed over the hotspot.

Island Park and Yellowstone Calderas formed as the result of enormous rhyolite ignimbrite eruptions, with single eruptions producing up to 600

cubic miles of ash. Henry's Fork Caldera, measuring 18 miles (29 km) by 23 miles (37 km), may be the largest symmetrical caldera in the world.

The caldera formed when a dome of magma built up and then drained away. The center of the dome collapsed, leaving a caldera. Henry's Fork

Caldera lies within the older and larger Island Park Caldera, which is 50 miles (80 km) by 65 miles (105 km). Younger volcanoes that erupted

after passing over the hotspot covered the plain with young basalt lava flows in places, including Craters of the Moon National Monument.

We’d been driving in the Snake River Plain for the last couple days, and Craters of the Moon represents one of the

young basalt flows superimposed on the much older Rhyolitic material. Shortly after leaving the Rexford area, we

climbed up and over the southern lip of Henry’s Fork Caldera and drove through the flat-bottomed valley until

entering the larger Island Park Caldera. During our passage through these once fiery structures we were pelted

with SNOW. The trees slightly above our elevation were covered with frost and there was fresh snow in protected

areas. We were at 6,800’ and the temperature dropped to 29o before we descended to lower elevation. The snow

gave way to snow-fog and then just rain, which we were in the rest of the day.

Here’s something else about the Snake River Plain that I found particularly interesting. From Wikipedia:

The Snake River Plain has a significant effect on the climate of Yellowstone National Park and the adjacent areas to the south and west. Over

time, the Yellowstone hotspot left a 70-mile wide channel through the Rocky Mountains. This channel is in line with the gap between the Cascade

Range and the Sierra Nevada. The result is a moisture channel extending from the Pacific Ocean to Yellowstone. Moisture from the Pacific

Ocean streams onshore in the form of clouds and humid air. It passes through the gap between the Sierra and Cascades and into the Snake

River Plain where it is channeled through most of the Rocky Mountains with no high plateaus or mountain ranges to impede its progress. It

finally encounters upslope conditions at the head of the Snake River Valley at Ashton, Idaho, and at Island Park, Idaho, at the Teton Range east

of Driggs, Idaho, and at the Yellowstone Plateau of Yellowstone National Park where the channeled moisture precipitates out as rain and snow.

The result is a localized climate on the eastern side of the Rockies that is akin to a climate on the west slope of the Cascades or the northern

Sierras. The head of the Snake River Valley, the Tetons, and the Yellowstone Plateau receive much more precipitation than other areas of the

region, and the area is known for being wet, green, having many streams, and having abundant snow in winter.

So that’s why we’ve been in rain since leaving the coast. It’s amazing what you can learn with a little research … and

an Internet connection.

After we dropped out of the Calderas, we took ID-87 over to US-287, which wisely followed the Madison River

Valley. The geology is right there to see. Roadcuts through deep cobble to boulder outwash; the magnificent river

raging with high water; the several terraces representing various stages of downcutting. Some of the roadcuts

revealed cobble layers interspersed with much finer-grained layers: storm surges followed by periods of

quiescence I assume. Our great western terrain is a geologic marvel – confusing, but marvelous just the same.

Somewhere along the line we passed into MT and eventually arrived at Ennis MT where the sign announcing the

town read: 840 People and 1,000,000 Trout. There were fly fishing stores, signed pullouts leading down to the

river, large Trout replicas on shops with names referring to Trout … the place was fly-fisherman heaven. It got me

to wondering, why do people go to such great lengths and expense to catch flies?

Just north of Ennis, there was a mile-long road of packed dirt that led to the Meadow Lake Recreation Area where

we settled in for a very late Granola break. Janie had read that it was a good place to bird, and that was correct.

After Ennis, we continued northward on US-287 to MT-84, which took us to the outskirts of Bozeman MT where

we fed DALAS. There were several train lines coming into Bozeman, one on the south side had a long string of coal

hopper-cars; the one on the north side had an equally long string of petroleum tank-cars. Yep, we are just west of

the Williston Basin that has been raped of its resources between the time I first passed through and the present.

But I gleefully pour several gallons of diesel into DALAS’ tank every day. Natural resources – a necessary

annoyance.

We headed east out of Bozeman on I-90. This section of I-90 is nothing like I-90 at home. There was very little

traffic and almost no trucks. Not that way in NYS for sure. I-90 delivered us to US-191, which we took north to …

are you ready … Eddie’s Corner MT. The dot on the map is almost bigger than the place it represents on the ground.

Janie had read about Ackley Lake SP just west of Eddie’s Corner and that’s where we were headed. Oh my, take

this road, take that road, turn here, up this dirt path and, viola, there you are at Ackley Lake SP. It has 15

campsites, all primitive. The charge is $24 and all you get is a fire ring, picnic table & windbreak. We’ll only make

use of the parking space and view of the lake. We put up our windshield insulation and settled in for what promises

to be a chilly night.

Janie is sitting in her usual place using the bed as a lounge. I’m in my driver’s seat rotated so I can put my feet up

on the passenger seat … and look out the passenger & slider windows at the lake while typing away between sips of

Founders All Day IPA. I still have several of them left … good thing, I’m liking ‘em. So, I’ll bid you adieu for today

and report in tomorrow sitting in the same seat but looking at different scenery.

Saw:

Well, we saw a lot of stuff in today’s 350-mile journey. One notable FOT: Violet Green Swallow. We’d been looking

for them since getting into their territory, even thought we’d seen some, but they turned out to be the very similar

Tree Swallow. The damned things move so fast, it’s hard to get a bead on ‘em. Did you see any white up around the

eye? No, but I saw a white saddle that nearly meets on the back. Oh, wait, there is some white around the eye, but

you can only see it when the bird is close and banks a certain way. Whatever, they are Violet Greens and that ’s

that. We read that Pelicans need to consume four pounds of fish a day to sustain themselves. Four pounds,

minimum. They also say Pelicans aren’t as heavy as they look … plus or minus four pounds. How many little bugs do

Swallows have to eat each day? Less than four pounds but still a lot.

When we pulled into our Granola stop north of Ennis MT, we were met with a blather of birds. An immature Golden

Eagle was soaring around overhead, there was an Osprey nest with an Osprey head sticking up, and a group of

White Pelicans were out for their afternoon soar. We didn’t see that kind of activity until we were leaving when

another blizzard of birds appeared. What we did see while eating was a blizzard of another sort: Tree Swallows

plucking bugs off the surface of the water. There were 100s of ‘em; they looked like a swarm of Mosquitoes as

they darted around over the water. Janie spotted a pair of Lesser Scaups, and we saw our first Meadowlark in a

while. A bit farther down the road, we got a glimpse of an Eastern Kingbird on one side of the road and a Western

Kingbird on the other. We’re getting back into the range of our familiar eastern species.

We passed a field of Bison; they were fenced in like cattle but still looked natural out there in the open field. I

caught a glimpse of a live Skunk skulking along in a ravine next to the road. And then there were the Pronghorn. We

hadn’t seen any for a while, and today we saw as many as we’d seen on the trip. Violet Green Swallow (finally, positive ID at campsite)

Eastern Kingbird (on one side of road, Western on the other)

Tree Swallow (100s of ‘em at Meadow Lake, Ennis MT

Bald Eagle (on fence post)

Osprey (on nest and fishing)

White Pelican

Meadowlark (first in a while)

Lesser Scaup

Golden Eagle (immature)

Pronghorn (several – first in a while)

Skunk (alive in a gully below the road)

Bison (domesticated)

Pronghorn

Reflect:

The Sky Is Crying … since AJ left … Ain’t No Sunshine When He’s Gone.

Eight consecutive days of rain, even some snow. AJ, come back!

It’s more than the rain, however. It’s damned cold. There is a bubble of cold air stretching from the border down

well below Salt Lake. Last night we were in Rexford ID, which was a pivotal spot navigationally. Yellowstone was

just up the road, but it is higher elevation so some of the roads were closed and others required snow tires. We

need to get to lower, not higher elevation. The question became: go south or north? We must eventually be up north

at the latitude of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. And that means ID/MT/SD/MN-200. We’ve traveled 200 several

times and found it suitable. Interestingly, it maintains the same road number all the way from Duluth MN to Idaho

and maybe beyond. If we opted to go south, we’d still be in the cold and have farther to drive. North it is … and

hope for the best.

Generally, when we come to this part of the country, we are seeking mountains as our alien-terrain destination. Now

we are seeking the Plains with their lower elevation and expected warmth. Things have been reversed by the fickle

weather, he said while listening to the all-too-familiar pitter-pat of raindrops on DALAS’ roof. At least it isn’t

snow, yet. It’s maybe 40o now and expected to drop into the low 30s by morning. No snow, but we’ll be burning our

propane furnace to keep warm. However, we will survive and profit from the experience. Whoa, there goes another

Violet Green seeking the last few morsels of insect protein before roosting time. Me? I’m enjoying the last few

sips of beer before dinner time … and then bed.

Ate:

Granola

Sardine Sandwich w/Mustard

Thai Curry w/Tilapia, Mixed Vegetables on Brown Rice

Drive:

End: Ackley Lake SP #8, Hobson MT

Arrive: 3:52

Temp (degrees): 41

Elev (ft): 4318

D (miles): 356

Mpg: 18.8 (Mtns, I-90, Wind)

2019.05.21…TUE…Day 37: Ackley Lake SP, Hobson MT … to … Ft Peck Downstream COECG, Ft Peck MT Up: 5:05 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 51/38/43 Weather: Overcast, Rain, E Wind

Did:

We wound our way out of the Ackley Lake SP and got on MT-200 heading east. No need to worry about sun in our

faces; it never showed the entire day. Lickety-split we were in Lewiston MT, population 5,000 or so. We drove

through downtown and gawked at the various shops & businesses. Guess which one was busiest? McDonald’s …

another commentary on our collective society. We found a fuel depot on the east side of town and filled up with

$3.08 diesel. We’ve been in the Judith Basin since late yesterday, and now we were exiting via a 5,000’ pass

through the Judith Mountains. They were the last mountains we’ll be seeing for a while. The slopes of the Judith

were populated with Ponderosa Pine nourished by the alkaline soil developed on Shale bedrock. Those are likely the

last Ponderosa we’ll see for a while also.

Next came the Musselshell River Valley with very few views of the river but nice views of the valley it carved.

There was essentially no traffic on MT-200 just as I remember from as far back as the 70s. Janie found a review

of one Chicago woman’s experience driving the road: long, boring, no facilities, crank it up to 80 and get it over

with. My response: why don’t you just fly and leave the road to those of us who appreciate the grandness of the

American West with its raw but spirit-lifting scenery? With so little traffic, there is little need for roadside

rests, but the two we encountered today were of Welcome Center quality. We took advantage of the first for our

Granola, and the second just to read the signs describing the area. We learned that we were driving through the

Bearpaw Shale (Eocene), a Black Fossiliferous Shale. It and its companion Cretaceous Rocks were deposited in an

inland sea stretching from the Arctic to the present-day Gulf. The future Cascades & Rockies were forming to the

west and the ancient Appalachians shedding sediment from the east. These rocks that cover much of eastern MT

are famous for Dinosaur fossils, Hell Creek being one of the important localities.

We were just a little west and south of the Missouri River and started noticing its effects on the local topography.

The bedrock is relative soft and readily eroded down to the Missouri base level resulting in a badlands-like

topography. Long, cylindrical concretions are eroding out and look like giant Dinosaur ribs. Maybe some of them

were. I believe this kind of topography gave rise to the Missouri Breaks moniker. Imagine traveling west in a wagon,

on horseback or on foot and encountering this rough terrain with its labyrinth of gullys & gulches. Not a pleasing

sight for them, but scenic for us.

We took a 60-mile detour to swing up to Ft Peck where the WPA built a dam across the Missouri. It was the

largest earthen dam at the time and employed thousands of otherwise out of work people – a very important social

program during the Depression. We camped here on our way back from AK in 2015 and marveled at the size of the

place. I wanted to see it again and maybe do some biking on the paved trails. But the wind, the damned Plains Wind,

is just too much to deal with. It wasn’t cold, in the low 50s, but the wind chill made it unpleasant. Instead, we

visited the Ft Peck Interpretation Center and got to see several T-Rex skulls unearthed from nearby locations …

and two complete, reconstructed specimens. One was a skeleton, the other fleshed out. Standing beside them left

me feeling small, insignificant and frightened. Most of my body would easily fit in its mouth. They also had a 40’

Crocodile skeleton hanging from the ceiling. Think about that a moment. Find something around you that’s 40’ long

and imagine it being a Crocodile. For us, 40’ is twice the length of DALAS, almost the length of our house –

assuming it still exists. There were lots of other impressive displays in the Interpretive Center; it was enlightening

… and not the least bit windy.

After being humbled by the Dinosaurs, we drove over to the Wildlife Pasture to see if the recently dropped baby-

Bison were showing themselves. First, let’s consider the term Wildlife Pasture. That seems to be a contradiction,

right? Now about the Bison, we could see them, but they were maintaining a very respectful distance from the

access road. Basically, black dots on a rolling, green landscape with maybe a couple small, reddish dots that might

be the calves. We had a little afternoon snack to soothe our Bison disappointment.

On down the road a bit, we found a fuel station and topped DALAS up with $3.39 diesel. I had a conversation with

the lady clerk. It wasn’t a pay-at-the-pump, so I went inside to see how she wanted to handle the transaction. She

said, “Just lift the handle and start pumping.” My reply: “I won’t drive off, I promise.” She said, “DALAS, right?”

She’d already memorized our license plate, so I told her what it stood for. She: “So, what kind of stuff are you

driving around looking at?” Me: “About anything that gets in our way, but mostly birds.” Then she wanted to know

what part of NY we were from. I told her, “The Buffalo area.” She then said she was heading to Scranton PA to

see her daughter next week. She said she’d been to the Buffalo area to see Niagara Falls … didn’t need to do that

again. I agreed.

Hey, the afternoon was getting on, time to thinking about setting up camp. But first, let’s do our utilities. It’s only

been a couple days, but since we don’t know where we might end up, it’s best to do ‘em when we can. The same is

true for showering. We did both and now we are now sitting in the Downstream COECG #8 for $9, thanks to our

Golden Age Passport. As with many of the dam-related COECGs, we are below the dam and hoping it holds. Our view

includes the hydroelectric facility and the angry water exiting the turbines. The Interpretive Center had a display

showing the Margret Bourke-White iconic image of the spillway structure before it was finished. The image served

as the cover photo for the first issue of Life magazine. I can’t see the spillway from where I’m sitting, but I can

see the bottle of Troegs Troegenator that’s demanding more personal attention.

Saw:

Today we saw a whole lot of rolling plains, mantled in grass and feeding herds of cattle and some sheep. We’re

seeing some of the birds we saw on the way out, Lark Bunting being the most notable. We’re also seeing lots of

Loggerhead Shrike which are uncommon back home – at least for us. More eastern species are showing up, like a

Baltimore Oriole and White Tail Deer. Interestingly, we saw a mixed of White Tail & Mule Deer in a gully and

Pronghorn on a nearby slope. By the way, don’t call ‘em Pronghorn Antelope. They are not Antelope, nor are the

Deer or even Camal; they are a breed all their own and unique to the North American continent. They evolved in the

wide-open spaces of the planes where there was no need for jumping. Thus, they have difficulty negotiating fences

and that’s an issue affecting their annual migration. Run fast, you bet; jump stuff, nope, not gonna do it. Lark Bunting

Baltimore Oriole

Black Tail Prairie Dog

White Tailed Deer

Mule Deer

Pronghorn

Beaver (unfortunately a roadkill specimen)

Blue Flax

Reflect:

It was our ninth day of rain & wind. This is getting to be a drag. I’m longing for a warm, sunny day so I can prune my

beard and wash DALAS’ windows … and have the windows open so we can hear some ambient sound. I had a thought

while driving today. We’re out of the mountains and starting the plains. That recalls the concept of the High Plains

Drifter. As I looked out over the terrain, I started wondering how those individuals navigated the plains. How far

could you expect to go in a day? A human can walk maybe 30 miles; a horse, also walking, might cover a bit more,

maybe as much as 50 miles. So I look out at the terrain and wonder where I might end up fifty miles down the trail.

Would I be looking for some high ground, or maybe a gulch that offered more protection from the wind? How would

a true drifter make these decisions? We are drifters of a slightly different sort. We drift from established

campsite to established campsite. We’re never sure where we’ll end up until around noon when we start calculating

how far we can get comfortably. Then Janie starts looking for possibilities. We zero in on a likely spot and it

becomes our day’s destination. High Plains Drifters of the modern era, that’s us.

Ate:

Granola

Peanut Butter & Cracker

Beef Stroganoff w/Peas on Noodles

Drive:

End: Ft Peck Downstream COECG #8, Ft Peck MT

Arrive: 1:21

Temp (degrees): 52

Elev (ft): 2048

D (miles): 257

Mpg: 19.8 (Headwind except last 10 miles)

2019.05.22…WED…Day 38: Ft Peck Downstream COECG, Ft Peck MT … to … Theodore Roosevelt NP North,

Watford City ND Up: 5:16 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 53/42/47 Weather: Overcast, Wind, some Rain

Did:

We wanted to get back on MT-200, and there were two options for doing that: 1) backtrack the way we came up

yesterday or 2) pick up US-2 east to MT-13 heading south to MT-200. MT-13 is designated as a Montana Scenic

Byway, so we opted for #2. It turned out to not be the best choice. US-2 had much more traffic than MT-200, and

the Scenic Byway wasn’t. Yesterday’s road, MT-24, was much more scenic. The difference was so striking that I

started wondering if they just put the ‘Scenic’ label on the wrong road. If not, then it is another example of their

values vs. ours. We win if we just follow our instincts.

The day dawned with high clouds and a big, bright spot we assumed was the long absent Sun. At one point, we found

ourselves bathed in sunshine, but that didn’t last very long. A little before noon, we started getting hit with a stiff

NE wind. It built to a steady 20+ mph blow and ultimately dark clouds and … more rain. The speed limit was 70 and

I was doing 50 … but … if you add in the 20-mph quartering headwind, I was right there at the posted limit. The

few vehicles that we shared the road with didn’t agree. Fortunately, there were plenty of opportunities for them

to pass us … and they did.

Ahhhh, back on MT-200, ever so much better than US-2 … or I-84, for that matter. Those are the three choices

if you are going E or W in this part of the world. We pulled into Richey MT and looked for a park where we could

have our Granola. Hmmm, not where we expected it to be. Finally, we gave up and got back on MT-200. Oh, there it

is. The sign was so weather beaten it couldn’t be read. Shortly after leaving Richey, we saw our first Pump Jack – a

big one, but it wasn’t pumping. It wasn’t long before we saw another one, then another and another.

We were in the Williston Basin, specifically the Bakken Oil Field. The portion of MT we were in was past the

development stage and into the production stage. When we got to ND, we saw even more Pump Jacks; some

platforms had 4 or 5 of ‘em in a row. We also started seeing drill rigs and lots of trucks. It seems the ND part of

the field is still in development. That means lots of trucks racing up and down the road. Big trucks, little trucks,

pickups, all hauling equipment, parts, supplies, brine and petroleum. The last big town for the day was Watford City

ND, so we pulled in to fill up DALAS. OMG, Watford City even worse than we remembered. It has a boom town

vibe. Lots of equipment and parts in fenced in big lots. Mud and dust coating just about everything, and all the

sleezy things one associates with a boom town. Kind of depressing, and we rushed to get out of there.

We took US-85 south toward Theodore Roosevelt NP North Unit. The road was also clogged with truck traffic.

The wind had picked up, it was raining, the truck traffic was bad, and I got a little white-knuckley. But suddenly

everything changed when we saw a sign notifying us that TR NP was just 2 miles ahead. In we go, and our day

changed for the better. As if passing through a time warp, we were in a soothing, natural environment and … face

to face with a shaggy bull-Bison. I could feel the stress draining from my body … as long as the Bison didn’t charge

… and if he did, we’d just pay him and move on. Our first goal was the CG, five miles down the park road. Holy crap,

the place is nearly empty. We settled on #30, paid our $7 (Old Fart discount), and took a slow drive through the

remaining 14 miles of park road.

We’ve been coming to ND since the 70s. That’s almost 50 years. I’ve been driving for 60 years. Both numbers are

equally depressing and impressive at the same time. Our most recent trips to ND were 1999 (tenting), 2001 (RVan),

2004 (meeting AJ & Karen), 2008 and now, 2019. At the risk of being maudlin, this will likely be our last ND event.

At least the western part where the only places left of interest to us are the two TR NPs. Thus, we are treating it

as a farewell tour and trying to wring all the pleasure out of it we can. On our previous trips, this was the farthest

west we got; it was later in the season and there were lots more people. Now it is early, and there are only a

handful of other visitors. Now if the sun would just come out and show off the brilliant colors of the rock

exposures … but not heat it up too much. Generally, the Williston Basin is a hotbox – not today, however. It’s barely

spring at this latitude.

The NP CG is primitive, so we have to rely on our batteries and that includes our devices. My notebook is screaming

at me to save and shut down, so I guess I will do as it requests and devote my full attention to the scenery … and

my Oskar Blues Old Chub Scotch Ale.

Saw:

We took a wrong turn out of the CG this morning and ended up in the Picnic Area where Janie spotted a pair of

Brown Thrashers (FOT). Guess it wasn’t a wrong turn after all. The drive netted several groups of Pronghorn and

Mule Deer – we’re about to leave their territory, so it was good to see ‘em. TR proved especially productive. Most

of our sightings were in the CG where we got good views and ID photos for: Lark Sparrow, Swainson’s Thrush,

Spotted Towhee, Harris’s Sparrow and a Turkey hen. Whew! It was a flurry of activity. We’ve left the Short Grass

Prairie behind and are now in the Mixed Grass Prairie. Next comes the Tall Grass portion. The differences are the

result of the Rockies stealing the moisture from the air, and as the dry air moves eastward, it sucks moisture out

from the ground. By the time it gets to MN, it is moist enough to support more grass growth, hence, the Tall Grass

Prairie. At least that’s what the sign we read on the park road said. The government wouldn’t lie, would it? Brown Thrasher (FOT)

Lark Sparrow (FOT)

Swainson’s Thrush (FOT)

Harris’s Sparrow (FOT)

Spotted Towhee

American Goldfinch

Yellow Shafted Flicker

White Crowned Sparrow

Chipping Sparrow (lots)

American Turkey (hen)

Pronghorn (several along drive)

Bison (up close & personal in TR)

Reflect:

I could go on a rant about the oil patch and all of its mess and truck traffic … and temper it with the admission

that I depend on its production every day. But I’ve already covered that or similar ground before … too many times.

Rather, I think I will reflect on Ranches.

We’ve just left the Short Grass Prairie where the ranches are separated by 10s of miles and are 1,000s of acres in

size. We almost never see the ranch houses; they are set way back down a long ranch-road and probably nestled in

a box canyon, protected from the weather. The only way we know a ranch is present is the big Torii-like gate

announcing its or the owner’s name. Things change as we proceed eastward. Population density increases, the

ranches are closer together, measure 100s of acres in size, and can frequently be seen from the road. Here’s an

interesting fact we learned from the host at the Interpretive Center yesterday: the state of Montana only

recently surpassed the 1,000,000-population mark. MT is a big state, so that leaves a lot of area uninhabited by

anything but large ranches, cattle and sheep. ND is only slightly more populous. Its total population is just a little

over that of Rochester NY and the county it’s in. A bit more people in a slightly smaller state means the ranches

are closer together. When we get to the Tall Grass Prairie, we’ll be in much more familiar territory. There will be

farms instead of ranches; they will be substantially smaller and primarily produce cultivated crops rather than

livestock. Just like home.

When returning from a trip like this, I get the feeling of decompressing. I’ve been on an alien-terrain high for a

month now, and we are coming down the glide path to increasingly more familiar environments. Once we get home,

we’ll rest up, get our chores done, have DALAS maintained and be heading out again sometime this fall. Where?

Dunno. Stay tuned.

Ate:

Granola

Cheese & Tomato Halfwich

Chorizo (1) & Kielbasa (1) & Potato Sala

Drive:

End: Theodore Roosevelt NP North #30, Watford City ND

Arrive: 1:51

Temp (degrees): 49

Elev (ft): 1973

D (miles): 256

Mpg: 20.3 (Quartering Headwind)

2019.05.23…THU…Day 39: … Theodore Roosevelt NP North, Watford City ND 2 … Up: 6:07 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 52/41/48 Weather: Clear, some PM Clouds

Did:

Look, there’s the Moon. Wait, if I can see the Moon, that means … the sky is clear. Sure enough, an hour later the

Big Red Ball crested Battleship Butte … the first time we’ve had full sunlight in ten days. Last night we pondered

staying here a second night and left our decision up to the weather: if it’s sunny, we’ll stay. It was sunny and we

paid another $7 for site #10 before driving up to Long X Trailhead where we could get 2-3 bars of cell service.

That’s where we set up for Morning Beverages. Then we took a very slow safari-drive up the park road, scanning

for wildlife. Whoa, is that a Bluebird in the tippy-top of that tree? No, it’s a Lazuli Bunting. Click, click, click …

positive ID from the pictures. Hey, that looks like a hawk is fighting with something on the ground. No, it’s two

Sharp Tailed Grouse doing what most birds are doing this time of year. We interrupted their morning pleasure, and

they walked off into the taller grass in disgust. The male was all puffed up with his purple throat-sacks extended.

He got away before I got the camera out, but I did get some shots of the hen.

We have all day and nothing particular to do. Let’s park in one of the pullouts and have brunch. Janie whipped up

some French Toast & Bacon while I edited the morning’s pictures. We’d had the entire place to ourselves from 6:30

until 10:15 when the first vehicle showed up. It was over an hour before the second came, and the traffic didn’t

really pick up until noon. While we were brunching, I noticed a large bird soaring over the prairie. It turned out to

be a Turkey Vulture, but while IDing it, I caught a glimpse of something smaller and brown. We had the telescope

out, so I focused on the smaller bird and turned it over to Janie – her eyes are much better than mine. It was a

Falcon and big enough to be a Peregrine or Prairie. Janie rattled off characteristics: facial markings but not

prominent and dark patches on the body, under the wings. Checking the book … Prairie Falcon, positive ID and one

of the best and longest views we’ve had.

It was just a grand and productive morning, and we finished our tour at the VC. There were three Bull Bison within

5-10 m of our parking spot. They were placidly munching the grass, and we got to see their eating technique. It

looked like they were licking the ground, but they were using their tongue to gather the grass to their lips before

clipping it off. We were close enough to hear the clipping. We were a little too close when one of ‘em decided to

make more room for new feed. A steady stream of green/brown material came gushing out the back. Bison Flop …

when it dries, you can use it to make a fire, or at least the Native Americans can. After the Bison display, we

walked up to the VC doors and found them … locked. Closed on Thursday. Hmmm, now we have even more time to

take a walk around the CG and check out the Nature Trail.

It was 70o in the shade, even higher in the Sun, and a very tolerable 5-10-mph breeze making it just a delightful

early-spring afternoon. The Nature Walk educated us about the plants and unique rock formations – and gave us

some needed leg stretching. There are more people in the CG tonight. We’re sitting in #10 and #11 has two

Sportsmobiles in it. They are almost identical pop-tops and seem to be occupied by two slightly less than middle-

aged couples. As I type this, I can see a Turkey strutting through the Mixed Grass Prairie that borders our site.

We’ve seen it, or similar, a couple times yesterday and even more times today. The mowed areas are overrun with

Chipping Sparrows and American Goldfinches feasting on Dandelion seeds, which is only possible if you are a small

bird. American Robins have been in just about every environment we’ve encountered, and we’ve started IDing them

according to the location. These are Robin, TR North variety. The CG is on the Little Missouri River Floodplain, a

good place for Cottonwoods, and they are tended to by several Flickers. So far we’ve only IDed Yellow Shafted,

but we are still hoping to see a Red Shafted one.

Okay, time to call a halt to this drivel and get serious about my Southern Tier 2x Milk Stout. More travel news

tomorrow when we go to … hmmm, wonder where we’ll end up.

Saw:

Well … we got 5 FOTs, a positive ID on a Prairie Falcon and our first ever Sculptured Puffball. It was a good day

morning to night. We also saw a hell of a lot of Tertiary Paleocene rocks. They were deposited in an expansive

deltaic system formed from sediment shed off the ancestral Rockies. Sluggish streams deposited sand and silt

with varying amounts of Iron making the canyon walls very colorful. Interspersed with those sediments are Lignite

and Volcanic Ash. The Lignite formed in swampy areas in a climate much like today’s Everglades. The Ash quickly

weathers to Bentonite, which can absorb several times its weight in water, becomes very slippery, then dries

leaving what’s called Popcorn Soil. It’s prone to sliding, and several places along the park road have been covered

with it … then scraped off. Yeah, we saw all of that … and more. Lazuli Bunting

Sharp Tailed Grouse

Vesper Sparrow

Field Sparrow

Gray Catbird

Prairie Falcon (Positive ID)

Sculptured Puffball

Reflect:

We need more places like this. We’ve been coming to TR for at least 40 years. Here’s this old-timer’s comment for

ya: Hell, I was here before it became a National Park – it was only a National Monument back then. That would be

followed by a throat-clearing spit. TR South is much larger, more grandiose, just off on I-84. Thus, it gets more

than its fair share of the pub … and traffic. It’s grand, and we may end up there tomorrow, if it isn’t too crowded.

But TR North is our favorite because it is quiet and almost never crowded. So, yeah, we need more places like this,

lots more.

Unfortunately, it appears it’ll be a struggle just to keep the ones we have. There is ample evidence of

understaffing and lack of proper maintenance in every federal facility we visit. Teddy would be appalled. Even more

concerning is the drilling that’s going on right up to the NP border. While on the drive, we could see Pump Jacks

working away just beyond the bounding fence. Last night, we could hear a constant drone from too-near machinery.

Things have changed in the last 40 years and not for the better, I’m afraid. Again, it helps me deal with my

advancing age. I won’t be here when places like this are shut down … I hope.

Ate:

French Toast w/Maple Syrup & Bacon

Cheese & Tomato Halfwich

Spaghetti

Hike Data:

Trail: CG & Nature Trail

ST: N/A

ET: N/A

TT: N/A

D (miles): 3.0

Drive:

End: Theodore Roosevelt NP North #10, Watford City ND

Arrive: 3:14

Temp (degrees): 70

Elev (ft): 1965

D (miles): 30

Mpg: 15.2 (Park Road)

2019.05.24…FRI…Day 40: Theodore Roosevelt NP North, Watford City ND … to … Downstream COECG, Lake

Sakakawea, Riverdale ND Up: 6:28 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 56/49/55 Weather: Rain & another Headwind

Did:

We awoke to an opaque sky and steady rain. New plans … it’s the cusp of MemHorrible Day Weekend, a time we

usually hole up until it passes. AAA was predicting a record number of travelers this year … seems most of ‘em have

RVs. We were squatting on site #10 in TR North and could reup for up to 14 days. We thoroughly enjoyed our

experience yesterday and fully expected we could amuse ourselves for a few more days – we could even take a day

and drive down to TR South, do the Tour Road and return to TR North. Well, the rain put the kibosh on those

ideas. Wet Bentonite trails would be impassible, so hiking would be out for a day or so. Time to regroup.

We needed Internet to check out alternatives, so we drove up to the Long X Trailhead to repeat yesterday’s

morning beverage routine. Janie found walk-in sites were available at The Garrison Dam COE CG. It’s only 140 miles

away, so there should still be sites when we get there. Done. We were off down the park road and onto US-85.

Heading south. OMG – it was just as bad as when we came in a couple days ago, maybe worse in the heavy rain.

Truck after truck after truck careening up/down the highway. It was only 20 miles or so to Grassy Butte where we

could get back on ND-200, and when we did … it was just as bad. Another 50 miles of trucks. Most of ‘em were

tankers hauling brine or petroleum, and all of ‘em were haulin’ ass. Eventually, they thinned out and we were once

again basically alone on the plains. About the only way we will ever pass through this part of the Williston Basin

again is coming back from a trip like this one.

We sauntered up to ND-1806, one of two roads specially designated to commemorate Lewis & Clark’s expedition.

ND-1806 represents their return and goes along the south side of Lake Sakakawea; ND-1804, the outbound leg is

on the north side. Them boys covered a lot of ground in two years. We eventually arrived in Pick City, on the south

end of Garrison Dam, and motored down to the Downstream COE CG where with heart in hand asked if there were

any sites available for three days. There were, and the friendly volunteer couple started registering us for site

#13, about 50 m from the Missouri River. They were in the process of learning a new registration-system, a

problem we encounter all too frequently. Because we’ve stayed in so many federal facilities and because the

volunteers are, shall we say, creative when typing in our information, we’re in the system several times with various

spellings of Boger, our address, our email address. They tried to correct some of those errant entries and managed

to lock up the system. Apparently, the code writers know about such issues, and they set it up to clear after

fifteen minutes. During our wait, we had a nice conversation with the volunteers and a park ranger who was seeking

refuge from the rain under the pretext of supervising the volunteers. It was fifteen minutes well spent in our

estimation for no other reason than we learned where to go to get groceries.

After putting our occupied tag on #13, we headed over to Garrison ND and the recommended Krause’s Grocery. We

need fuel and a PO and took care of all our chores in one town. There seemed to be a memo price for diesel, and it

was a good one: $2.94. I guess all that oil production is paying off. Krause’s was busy on the Friday before The

Weekend, but we managed to navigate the clutter. Oh, look, they have their own Bratwurst & German Potato Salad.

Krause is Germanic, right? In the cart they go. We’ll taste test ‘em, and if they pass, we can go back and stock up.

We picked up some fresh veggies … supposed to be 70 and sunny tomorrow, salad weather. The PO was essentially

downtown, so after depositing our postcard, we opted to drive down Main Street. Hey, we’ve been here before.

There’s the park with the giant full-color Wally The Walleye statue … and over there is the restaurant where we

had lunch and was waited on by a teenage waitress still in high school. I had noted that there were no fast food

establishments in the area, so I asked her how she managed to get along without a McDonalds. She didn’t like

McDonalds or any of the other national stuff. Then I asked if she was anxious to graduate and move to a bigger

city. Nope, she was perfectly happy right there in Garrison ND. Kind of refreshing in a state that once posted a

sign: Will The Last Young Person To Leave North Dakota Please Turn Out The Lights. Wonder if she’s still here.

We stopped at the Audubon NWR VC on the way back – one of the attractions for us here. It’s a very elegant

building, all green energy efficient. While we were checking out the displays, one of the rangers came out of his

office to see if we had any questions. We did, and he answered ‘em all and then some. We talked for the better

part of a half hour, exchanging stories and commiserating over the bad civic planning during the development of the

Bakken Oil Field. He said a lot of locals who’d lived in the area all their lives had to move because the cost of living

rose beyond their means. Yeah but the price of diesel is good, right?

Back in camp, it was time to shower up and get out clean clothes - both much needed. So here I sit typing away

between sips of Founders All Day IPA and watching White Pelicans gliding in to their nightly roost. Yeah, it’s a

tough life, but we’ll gladly live it.

Saw:

We saw a torrential amount of rain today. It didn’t rain particularly hard, but it was a persistent all-day event. You

know those Fire Danger Today signs with the dial that goes from None to Extreme? Well, the one outside the CG

was set to less than None appropriately. The birds were kind of sopped in, and that plus the rain mist & traffic

prevented us from seeing much on the drive. We did glimpse some hawks looking very wet and forlorn … and

probably hungry … sitting on fence posts or utility poles. Not a great day for (wo)man or beast. Janie did spot a

Black Tern just as we neared Lake Sakakawea (yes, that’s the official spelling). Then a Clay Colored Sparrow joined

a flock of American Goldfinches hungrily devouring Dandelion seeds – right at our campsite – and a Swainson’s

Thrush was nabbing insects in the grass. Wow! Black Tern

Clay Colored Sparrow

Reflect:

Day 40 – this is our 40th day on the road. You use a fair amount of toilet paper in 40 days, and we are getting down

to the nub. Have you ever tried to buy a single roll of TP? Well, it is more difficult than you might expect. You can

get a minivan full all bundled together and extra cheap; you can get smaller packages of ten, eight, six or even four

rolls. But you hardly ever find just one roll. Hell, you can break apart bunches of bananas to get the number you

want, even one if that’s your desire. But you can’t break up a four-pack of TP. Nope, can’t do it. And that’s a

problem for campers with limited storage like us. We started out packing two full rolls and a couple partial ones.

We’re now down to the partials and starting to sweat it out. This has been an issue before, and now when we go into

a grocery, we look for single rolls. So far, there have been none available. The emergency backup-plan would be to

steal some left unlocked in vault toilets. Not the best solution. So, if you have any pull in the store business, try to

convince them single rolls would be a good public service.

Ate:

Granola – very late

Krause’s Brats & German Potato Salad

Drive:

End: Downstream COECG #13, Lake Sakakawea, Riverdale ND

Arrive: 11:10

Temp (degrees): 48

Elev (ft): 1714

D (miles): 126

Mpg: 18.7 (Rain & another headwind)

2019.05.25…SAT…Day 41: … Downstream COECG, Lake Sakakawea, Riverdale ND … Up: 6:27 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 58/44/49 Weather: SUN

Did:

We stayed in camp long enough to have morning beverages then it was 20 miles down the road to Audubon NWR

where we spent the bulk of the day on the Tour Road. It was so nice, we did it twice; forward & backward. It was a

beautiful day worthy of the Chamber of Commerce promotional literature. The temperature was right in the

comfort zone and there was essentially no wind. Yay! We hung our binos around our necks (I’ll be yours by heck); we

put the little telescope on the monopod for Janie to use in her passenger seat; I set up the big scope on its tripod

for use out the slider when we stop to scan an area of interest; and I drove, very slowly, with my D7500 & Big Lens

on my lap. We were optically prepared for wildlife viewing … and … it turned into a 50 species day plus two FOT

Squirrels … and … a Moose. Yeah, a Moose out here on the Mixed Grass Prairie. We found a convenient pullout and

set up for Granola while waiting for the wildlife to acclimate to our presence. It takes about 20 minutes for them

to settle down, after that we started seeing more and more … even a passel of fish lolling near the surface and

occasionally jumping as if to say, “Look at me.” We had our breakfast with Bobolinks … and fish. There was only one

other vehicle on the Tour Road, so we had the place pretty much to ourselves. Whenever Janie said “Stop”, I could

execute her command without fear of interfering with other enthusiasts. We finished the Tour Road a little

before 3 and decided to take the Nature Trail that winds through the Prairie, into what passes for woods, and

around a couple Prairie Potholes. It was a nice finish for our refuge day.

We were back in camp around 3:45. We hadn’t done utilities for five days, so we pulled into the dump station and

took care of that. DALAS’ tires had been reading a little low now that we are out of rarified mountain air. I got out

our Slime Pump and put some air in – hope it’s enough. We drove through a swarm of insects on the way back, so I

got out our Windex and cleaned that up. My beard & hair were getting shaggy, so I got out the beard pruners and

Janie took scissors to my hair. As always, beard & hair trimming is followed by sex … no, shower. Shower, shower.

Where is your mind, old man? These are the best showers we’ve had on the trip. The bathhouse is heated, although

it wasn’t needed today, but it would have been yesterday. The stalls are big and well lit … and clean. There are

hooks, a bench and even a tray to hold your soap/shampoo. We almost never get all those niceties in the same

shower. Oh, the shower head is great and there’s plenty of hot water. Good shower; we’ll be taking one all three

days we’re here. But we know full well, you can’t store up cleanliness, only grunge tends to accumulate with time.

After showering, it was time to trim water-softened nails. Whew, what a flurry of activity.

We are now sitting in our little patch of grass, overlooking the Mighty Mo and listening to the Kingbirds twittering

overhead. I’m knee-deep into the last of Joe’s Great Lakes Edmund Fitzgerald and thoroughly enjoying the

experience … and memory of the Georges visit. Think I give it my full attention while the Sun sinks slowly in the

west.

Saw:

OMG, we saw a lot - 50 bird species according to Janie’s tally. The Tour Road is only 9 miles long, but we doubled

that by turning around and driving it backwards – there were no Do Not Enter or One Way signs and it was plenty

wide for two vehicles to pass. It took us almost six hours to complete because we employed the 20-minute rule. A

book we read said you need to spend at least 20 minutes sitting quietly for wildlife to recover from the shock of

your presence. There were eleven stops with information signs, and we spent 20 minutes at each one. The bird

density wasn’t as great as some of the other NWRs we’ve visited, but the 20-minute thing netted us the second

largest species count of the trip. It really works.

We came across a Killdeer family: mom, dad and three little ones. Unlike tree-nesting birds, Killdeer chicks can go

with mom & dad shortly after hatching. They look like miniatures of the adults. The parents protect them by faking

injury so a predator will go after the adult rather than the flightless chicks. The parents we saw were doing their

act while the chicks hustled along and into the grass.

Yesterday, we had a long conversation with one of the refuge Rangers, and he told us they have Moose in the area.

We’d seen a Moose Crossing sign but assumed it was more wishful thinking than real. Nope, they have real Moose

and need a real sign. They aren’t sure where they are coming from, but they do know there is a brain-worm

infestation that’s decimating the Moose population in the Turtle Mountains up on the ND/Canada border. Maybe

these are escaping the parasite. Whatever, there are now Moose on the loose in the Prairie.

We also saw a Richardson’s Ground Squirrel and a 13 Lined Ground Squirrel. There weren’t nearly as many as we

remember from previous trips … but … the Squirrels & the Moose are certainly FOTs. The only bird FOT was a

Myrtle Warbler that allowed us to watch while he bugged in a willow scrub next to DALAS. Yeah, the 20-minute

thing again. Myrtle Warbler

Richardson’s Ground Squirrel

13 Lined Ground Squirrel

Moose

Reflect:

So what do you do when you have nothing to do and all day to (not) do it? We managed to beat in the time in

Audubon NWR. I don’t know how ‘normal’ that is, but I expect many people would do the same if they had the time

and a nearby NWR. I know several of those who read these words are in that category. However, we spent the

whole day in Audubon NWR and saw exactly three vehicles and a couple of hikers. Remember, it was Saturday of

MemHorrible Day Weekend. There is a nearby town of significant size and lots of people attracted by Lake

Sakakawea. Maybe that’s the problem. Everyone is fishing or boating on the lake. But still, we’ve had similar

experiences at other NWRs. The only one we visited on this trip that was remotely crowded was Malheur NWR, a

major attraction for birders. Yesterday, the COE Ranger we spoke with said vacancies in the CG are counted

against their budget. Fewer campers, less money. I asked the Ranger at Audubon if they operated under a similar

policy. No, they don’t; he was surprised the COE did. The NWR gets the same funding regardless of the number of

visitors. That seems good on the surface, but what if it’s a popular refuge and being loved to death with no extra

money to keep the place up. No matter how it works or doesn’t work, there is clearly not enough government

support for these facilities. They need to be maintained and managed even if the public doesn’t use them. It’s for

the wildlife; humans sharing the experience is a lagniappe …for the public.

Ate:

Granola

Peanut Butter & Crackers

Big Ol’ Salad with lots of fresh veggies, croutons & Tuna

Hike Data:

Trail: Audubon NWR Nature Trail

ST: N/A

ET: N/A

TT: N/A

D (miles): 1.0

Drive:

End: Downstream COECG, Lake Sakakawea, Riverdale ND

Arrive: 3:46

Temp (degrees): 72

Elev (ft): 1697

D (miles): 54

Mpg: 15.6 (Refuge)

2019.05.26…SUN…Day 42: … Downstream COECG, Lake Sakakawea, Riverdale ND … Up: 6:33 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 55/47/53 Weather: Sun – Dark Clouds – Rain - Clearing

Did:

We awoke to a bright, sunny morning … let’s ride bikes. As usual it began with morning beverages followed closely

by gearing up, lubricating the bike chains, and pedaling down the CG road. Hey, what’s that? There was a sign with a

pair of binoculars pointing to a parking area. In we go and discover the River Loop Trail. Hunh, didn’t know such a

thing existed. Off we go down the gravel path. This is great. There are birds all over the place and the trail seems

to go on and on … to a big pile of gravel after which it became choked with freshly applied loose gravel that was

dangerous to bike while looking at birds. No problem, we walked the bikes and had even more time to gawk. The

trail ended at the Fish Hatchery where we picked up the road that we mistakenly started down yesterday. There

was almost no traffic, certainly not as much as bird life. It ended at a Road Flooded sign, but there was a smaller

road leading off toward the east spillway. That took us to a picnic/fishing area where we looked around and decided

to split a Blueberry Belvita … we didn’t expect to be out this long, so we didn’t have breakfast before starting. No

problem, Janie always carries ‘snacks’ just for occasions like this. Sustained, we headed back toward the CG and on

past our loop all the way down to the tenters section. Doesn’t sound like much, but it’s at least a couple miles. We

met up with a middle-aged couple, one with a dog, the other with a plastic bag straining under the weight of its

contents. I said hello and passed ‘em by, but Janie stopped to ask what they were collecting. I’d assumed they were

either picking up trash from the side of the road or the bag was full of their dog’s leavings. Neither, they were

collecting Morrell Mushrooms … a lot of ‘em … and just those on the edge of the road. Far out!

When we got back to DALAS, the wind had picked up and it was threatening rain, but neither of us was ready to

quit. We went back to the River Loop trail and biked the part we’d missed and returned by the part we rode earlier.

Wow, what a day. We almost got 14 miles and didn’t expect to get even half that much. It started to rain shortly

after I finished putting the gear away and racking the bikes. Good timing, eh? Another bit of good timing … it’s

Sunday and that’s our normal Brunch day. Janie whipped up a batch of French Toast and Bacon while I downloaded

Win10 & Office updates to our two notebooks. Updates … don’t get me started. It was time for the NYY-KC game

by the time we finished brunch. I kept track of how they managed to lose while Janie proofread Trip Log Part 4. I

shipped it off when she finished and guess what, it was 5 o’clock and time for a celebratory brewsky. I settled on

my last Brooklyn Chocolate Stout. It’s a 10%er and when coupled with the wine I’ll be drinking with dinner, I’ll be

getting very giddy and very talkative before the night is through. Yeah, I’m one of those happy drunks, and now it’s

time to get serious about that process.

Saw:

What a day. A real lagniappe. We biked and birded the hell out of this place. It wasn’t a long ride, but it was

surprisingly nice and birdy. Janie tallied 28 species … only half of yesterday’s total, but this isn’t a NWR and there

weren’t a lot of ducks. However, we did get our first Hooded Merganser and a Least Flycatcher on the ride. The

campsite itself has proven to be productive. We have both Eastern & Western Kingbird, Baltimore Oriole, and a

Swainson’s Thrush in whose territory we seem to be parked. It has come to the base of the tree nearest DALAS

several times and even up onto our pad, only a meter from our open door. Apparently, it doesn’t like French Toast or

Bacon, so it didn’t accept our invitation to join us for Brunch. We’ve also had a male and female Redstart flitting

around in the Box Elder that the Thrush seems to prefer.

Now for the bigger birds. We saw a large bird soaring low over the road and eventually perch in a tree just ahead

of us. That gave us a chance to ID it … Immature Bald Eagle. We’d read that there is an Eagle’s Nest in the area, so

it wasn’t entirely unexpected. It was probably from last year’s hatch and still hanging around with the adults. A bit

later we saw one of the adults … and later biked right under the nest, literally. I blithely biked right on through

because I had my helmet visor down and could only see things at horizon level or lower. Janie wisely had hers

turned up and spotted the nest. We knocked on the tree and asked if anyone was home but didn’t get a response. It

would have been so cool to have a head pop up and look over the edge at us – like the Great Horned Owl and Beaver

in the Bev Doolittle’s Whoo Whoo painting. I still hadn’t turned my visor up and completely missed the GBH Rookery

just off to our left. Janie saw it and called me back so I could get some pictures of the mother GBHs sitting on

eggs. Hard to imagine folding those long legs up to nestle down and incubate eggs, but they do it. The only thing

visible above the edge of the nest was a long, yellow beak terminating in a big, black eye … looking at us the whole

time. I clicked off several frames and none of them showed any movement at all. Yep, it was a good day all around. Hooded Merganser

Least Flycatcher

Warbling Vireo

American Redstart

Immature & Mature Bald Eagle

Bald Eagle Nest

GBH Rookery (occupied by sitting mothers)

Pussytoes

Reflect:

Last night we came up with a few options for today and decided to make our decision once we saw how the day

dawned. It dawned bright and sunny, so we went for our first option: a bike ride. The weather report said 10%

chance of precipitation starting at 1pm. It was only a half hour off, but it was a good guide for when to end the

ride, which we did with a half hour to spare. It turned out to be a great way to spend MemHorrible Day.

The bikes are amazing. We drag ‘em around the country exposing them to all kinds of conditions, but when we want

to ride, they are ready, willing and able. All I do is put on some chain lube, run through the gears a few times and

they are ready to go. Even the new inner tubes are performing flawlessly. I installed extra-thick, thorn-resistant

ones to help with the puncture issue. I had a bit of a problem getting them on because it was difficult getting the

tire over the extra-thick tubes. Once done, however, I’ve not had to pump ‘em up or anything. Just get on and ride.

Now I know what you’re thinking: God Punishes Fat Mouthed Remarks. Well, I’ve been saving this for almost a year

now. Maybe the curse is passed. Hope so anyway.

While we were sitting in DALAS and watching it rain, I got to pondering that 10% probability thing. I’ve looked into

it and learned the meaning of the prognostication but keep forgetting. Today, I came up with my own explanation.

We are parked next to a Handicapped site that is completely paved. One end is a little low allowing a puddle to

form. I was watching that puddle and noticing that only about 10% of it was registering raindrops. Ah-ha, that’s

what the 10% is. It’s how much area will be covered by rain droplets. Heavy rain, 100%; light rain 10%. And I

thought it was complicated.

Now I’d like to reflect on Sepals. Those are the protective covering on tree and flower buds. Today, it’s the tree

variety I’d like to focus on. You know how some thoughtless people spit out their gum on the pavement and on hot

days, we normal people step in it and must deal with that sticky substance on our shoes until it finally wears off?

Yeah, I know you know about that just like I do. Well, it turns out tree sepals are almost as bad. Earlier on the trip

we had to deal with Cottonwood Sepals, now it’s Box Elder Sepals. We can’t step outside without picking up a

coating on our shoes. And they are very sticky, to the point of being impossible to remove. I’m a big fan of trees,

but not their Sepals.

Ate:

Half Belvita Blueberry

French Toast w/Bacon

Rollups: Seeds of Change Rice, Swan Market Chorizo, Tomato Sauce, Onion, Cheese, and whatever else might fall

into it

Bike Data:

Trail: Downstream COECG trails & roads

ST: 8:30

ET: 12:30

TT: 4:00

BT: 2:11

D (miles): 13.96

Mx (mph): 17.4

Avg (mph): 6.3

Drive:

End: N/A

Arrive: N/A

Temp (degrees): N/A

Elev (ft): N/A

D (miles): N/A

Mpg: N/A

2019.05.27…MON…Day 43: Downstream COECG, Lake Sakakawea, Riverdale ND … to … Red River Valley Fairgrounds

& CG, West Fargo ND Up: 6:03 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 57/47/53 Weather: Overcast & Wind

Did:

Into The Wind … Again. The Pacific keeps spinning lows that the steering currents move westward, and we are

north of their track. That means headwinds, at best quartering winds. We ended up on I-94 going east into a 20-

mph dead-on headwind today. The speed limit was 80, I cranked DALAS up to 65, which equated to 85 when you

add in the wind. The miles melted away as did our mileage. It’s like throwing diesel into the wind. I know this is an

all too familiar gripe, but we’ve had headwinds almost the entire trip, and I’m getting progressively more disgusted.

But the day didn’t start out that way.

We worked our way back to ND-200 heading east through several miles of Prairie Potholes. The area is mostly

Ground Moraine with a few lumpy fill areas thrown in. The potholes form … oh hell, let’s let Wikipedia explain it …

The Prairie Pothole Region (PPR) is an area of the northern Great Plains and midgrass and tallgrass prairies that contains thousands of shallow

wetlands known as potholes. These potholes are the result of glacier activity in the Wisconsin glaciation, which ended about 10,000 years ago.

The decaying ice sheet left behind depressions formed by the uneven deposition of till in ground moraines. These depressions are called

potholes, glacial potholes, kettles, or kettle lakes. They fill with water in the spring, creating wetlands which range in duration from temporary

to semipermanent.

Ducks love the potholes. More than half of all North American Ducks either breed in or pass through ND. That’s a

lot of ducks. We stopped for our Granola just east of Goodrich ND, on the edge of a large Prairie Pothole. Our

breakfast partners included Red Head, Blue Wing Teal, Ruddy as well as Canada Geese and lots of Yellow Headed

Blackbirds. The place was a cacophony of sounds and sex … it’s that time of year, remember?

Janie had located a couple COE CGs, one was a bit too close and the other a bit too far. We decided to check out

the first one to see if it had enough to offer to warrant a half-day’s time investment. The name, Lake Ashtabula,

sounded familiar to both of us. Janie thought it might be the one where you come off the high ground, look down

into the river valley and can see two CGs, one on each side of the dammed river. When we got there, she was

correct, and we immediately recognized the CG layout. The CG Host come over to tell us what was available and how

to register – have to do it online now even though there is no cell service in the CG. He also said they had a bad

storm over the weekend that dumped buckets of water and even generated a small tornado that skittered along

the opposite valley wall. The place looked drenched with lots of muddy tire tracks and ruts where weekenders had

extricated their rigs. It wasn’t too appealing and there would be essentially nothing for us to spend the afternoon

doing – other than maybe getting DALAS out of a mudhole. We were running low on fuel, and the Host said there

was diesel down in Valley City, 18 miles south. Okay, we’ll go down there, get fuel and use the cell connection to

make a reservation, maybe. His rejoinder: “If you’re going down there anyway, you might check out the city CG.”

We fueled DALAS up in Valley City ND to the tune of $2.84/gallon. The filling station was just a block away from

the CG, so we checked that out. Not so good; it was basically in town, beside a busy highway and kind of ratty

looking. Hmmm, go back to the only slightly better COE place or continue into the unknown? We decided to toss the

dice and see if we can find something better down the road, and that road was I-94.

While I muscled DALAS down I-94 into a nasty, gusting wind, Janie researched other possibilities. She found one

in the form of the Red River Valley Fairgrounds and Campground in West Fargo ND. We gladly exited the

Interstate and followed the signs to … what looked like an RV parking lot. The place has over a hundred sites, most

of ‘em occupied. However, MemHorrible Day Weekend is over, and there were a few slots available. We picked one

on the outer edge, paid our $30 and are now enjoying our concrete slab and typing up our notes. The place is well

maintained and has all the necessary facilities including free showers. The only negative other than the price

(Mark’s paying) is the lack of scenery. Well, there’s scenery if you count a bewildering variety of RVs and the DOT

garage that’s behind us … man, they got some big mother snowplows and salt trucks … and a mountain of sandbags –

the Red River of the North is prone to flooding. When we were last here, the entire downtown area was blocked

off and cleaning up after a serious flooding event. It was sad to see; even worse to experience I ’m sure.

Good news: the Yankees won and it’s time for my Founders All Day IPA. See ya …

Saw:

Well, we saw lots of Ducks and related water-centric species. That’s the good news; the bad news is we didn’t stop

to do ‘em justice. We were surprised to see White Pelicans on the larger Pothole Lakes. We were passing a little

north of Chase Lake NWR … Wikipedia again:

Chase Lake National Wildlife Refuge is located in North Dakota and is one of the oldest in the U.S., having been set aside in 1908. The refuge

has more breeding pairs of white pelicans than any other protected area in the U.S.

Yeah, Sue, that one. Remember, after we’d been in the area a few years ago, you sent us an email telling us the

Pelicans had left and nobody knew why. Fortunately, they returned and are still going strong. Maybe we were seeing

some of the overflow today.

Reflect:

Changes. As we continue to head east, we are seeing the expected changes both in the natural environment and

cultural setting. We’re on the edge of the Tall Grass Prairie that mantles the mostly Pleistocene Glacial surface.

Elevation changes only amount to a few hundred feet at most, generally only 10s of feet. We have changed from

large Ranches to Ranchettes to expanses of cultivated fields. I can’t tell what they are growing because its only in

the sprout stage, but the abundance of large grain elevators suggest corn, wheat and probably soybeans. All that

agriculture is mostly confined to the flat Ground Moraine and Lake deposits. Cattle grazing still occurs in the few

areas of bouldery till that isn’t suitable for plowing. The towns are getting closer together and larger with each

passing mile. Generally, the roads have been routed around the smaller ones and all you can see is a cluster of

homes surrounding a water tower and grain elevator. Soon we’ll be in the stage where they are only a short buggy-

ride apart, and a few more hundred miles of road they will have grown together completely. We’re running out of

exotic terrain.

NYY. When I mentioned that the Yankees won today, I thought maybe I should explain my infatuation with them.

It’s all Jason’s fault. He grew up on Long Island and has been a lifelong Yankees fan. I, on the other hand, grew up

in OH and followed the Reds. When you change geographic locations, you get inundated with news of local teams.

Sticking with baseball, in the Rochester area we hear about the Redwings all the time. But the major league teams

are either the Mets or Yanks. I never liked the Yanks, hated ‘em actually, so I tried to get into the Mets. It quickly

became clear that was wasn’t going to happen. That left the Yanks and Jason. I’m now a Yankee fan and follow them

whenever I can, like today. All that rationalization also applies to the Bills. They are our ‘home’ NFL team, and I’m

pretty much forced to root for ‘em, self-destructive as that might be. So there ya go, it’s the Yanks and the Bills …

and the Syracuse Orange – all my ‘home’ teams. But … I still follow the Buckeyes, both in football and basketball.

OMG, there’s an older couple walking their lap dog and it’s stopping at every vertical object to sniff and pee. If

they don’t take it back to the RV soon, it’ll get dehydrated.

Ate:

Granola

Peaches & Pears (and we’re having Chili because we opened it by mistake, thinking it was fruit - honest)

Chili w/Black Beans, Tomato & Pit Sauce, Onion, Chili & Garlic Powder, Red Pepper Flakes, some dust and maybe a

hair or two (it’s windy)

Drive:

End: Red River Valley Fairgrounds & CG #59, West Fargo ND

Arrive: 2:42

Temp (degrees): 66

Elev (ft): 912

D (miles): 262

Mpg: 19.1 (Interstate & Wind)

2019.05.28…TUE…Day 44: Red River Valley Fairgrounds & CG, West Fargo ND … to … McNally CG, Grantsburg WI Up: 5:27

Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 54/43/52 Weather: Clear, Fog, Clouds, Clear

Did:

We were up early and greeted by a heavy dew. This is the first dew we’ve seen in a long time. We are in a more

humid part of the country, witness the many trees. We were on the road by 8:00, heading west on I-94 to the

second exit where we picked up a state road going south. Why? We were on the west side of Fargo and didn’t want

to deal with the Tuesday-after-Memorial-Day traffic. The plan worked. Janie knit together a bewildering number

of state and county roads as we vectored our way toward Grantsburg WI. A few of the roads were a little busy,

and there were some construction and detour issues … but … the rest of it was girl … err, I mean, great.

After crossing the swollen Red River, we were officially in MN. We’d been driving through a flat terrain mantled in

rich, black soil. Ah-ha! It’s the residue of Glacial Lake Agassiz, the mammoth lake that covered nearly all of

Manitoba, western Ontario, a chunk of Saskatchewan and extended down into what is now the Red River (of the

north) Valley of ND & MN. Big lake. It left rich soil that now produces much of North America’s wheat. After

leaving Agassiz behind, we passed into morainic material dotted with lakes & marshes of various sizes before

flattening out again in an outwash plain.

Somewhere along the line, we crossed the Mississippi River, also swollen. It has been very wet up here and streams

are bank-full to overflowing. Even so, it’s been much better than the scores of tornados, damaging hail and high

winds that have been pummeling the mid-continent. Through dumb luck, we managed to make the proper decision

when we headed north into the cold and wind. If we’d gone south, well, it would have been much worse. I’ve been

bitching about the wind, but what we had to deal with was benign compared to the Midwest. Yeah, very lucky

indeed.

Originally, we intended to stay at two COE CGs but managed to miss both of ‘em. I explained the first miss

yesterday but the second one happened today. It seemed like fate directed us away. It was getting onto Granola

time, and we were looking for a quiet place with a nice view, preferably a lake of marsh. Janie found a Roadside

Rest just up ahead; it was on a lake and even had a name. When we got to where the map showed it to be, there was

a sign directing us southward eleven miles to the scenic turnout. Off we go for way more than eleven miles and

never saw the damned thing. We know we’d gone past when we got to a road heading east. Okay, we’re now south of

our original trajectory and getting farther away from the COE CG by the minute. Let’s just push on to Grantsburg

WI, our expected destination for the next day. That’s what we did, and it turned out to be the perfect solution.

The roads were lightly trafficked; I could settle in at a comfortable speed and enjoy the passing scenery. We

fueled up in the sleepy hamlet of Browerville MN and continued enjoying our good driving day all the way to

Grantsburg WI.

After a detour around a bridge-construction site, we crossed the St Croix River and found ourselves in WI. We’d

driven the breadth of MN in one day – gotta be a record for us. Grantsburg WI was next. Why Grantsburg? We’ve

been there several times and know there’s a nice CG with all the amenities. It’s also near Crex Meadows, a state-

run wildlife refuge that we’ve visited and biked in the past. And … Burnett Creamery is just five miles down the

road. That’s where we get our favorite 5-year Cheddar. We registered for a campsite, the only one available for

two nights, did our utilities and headed to Burnett. Hmmm, they don’t seem to have the regular 5-year Cheddar; it’s

been replaced by one from another creamery it seems. We bought six chunks anyway, hoping for the best. On the

way back, we stopped at the Crex VC and talked to a most delightful 26-year-old Rangerette. She told us about the

road conditions – all were good to drive or bike except for one small area still under water. Back to camp where we

took a shower and dug into the Cheddar. Hmmm, much creamier without the crunchy crystals we like. But … it is

nice and sharp and tangy, which we also like, but, sob, it isn’t quite the same. We also bought a loaf of Cranberry

Walnut Bread that we’ve had before and liked. We sampled it and found it to be just as good if not better than we

remember. Cheese & bread served as our late lunch.

I’m now topping it all off with my penultimate Founders All Day IPA. It goes well with the Bread & Cheddar … and

me ;-)

Saw:

It’s early spring up here and the plants are just coming to life. Dandelions are prolific, some fields were glowing

golden with ‘em like they’d been intentionally planted. Lilacs were just coming out and some of the woods were

carpeted with White Trillium. The Horse Chestnut were resplendent with their candelabra blooms, and lots of

people were out mowing their lawns for the first time this year. We only got one FOT today: Purple Martin. But we

saw lots of familiar feathered friends in the form of Puddle Ducks. Then there was the Common Loon followed

closely by Snowy & Great Egret, and even a female Ruffed Grouse sitting along the edge of the road. One pond had

a couple Tundra Swan, and we saw a couple Sandhill Cranes feeding in the fields. Lots of the marshy areas were

decked out in brilliant yellow Marsh Marigold, and there are enough trees to qualify as forests. We saw our first

Tamarack and Eastern Aspen since the beginning of the trip. Things are getting increasingly familiar as we continue

east. Purple Martin (FOT)

Common Loon

Great Egret

Snowy Egret

Trumpeter Swan

Sandhill Crane

Ruffed Grouse

Tamarack

Eastern Aspen

Marsh Marigold

White Trillium

Reflect:

Open Road, Insert Me. It isn’t the wide-open spaces of the west, but today’s drive was about as good as it gets in

this part of the world. The lack of traffic allowed me to putz along at my preferred 45-50 mph. We still had that

pesky east wind, but it wasn’t nearly as bad as before – less than 10 mph rather than gusts over 20 we’d been

dealing with. The day began sunny but clouded up midmorning. By midafternoon, it was clear again. All that and quiet

roads made me a happy driver. It’s difficult to find good roads that connect, but Janie managed to do it – for the

most part. A couple detours put us on busier roads, but she was able to find escapes within a few miles. She knows

what makes me happy … and she can find good roads, too ;-)

We’ll be crossing the US/Canada border in a few days. That always presents a problem in terms of the alcohol

we’re packing. We can only pack so much and sometimes we run out and other times we have some left over. We are

over this time. I’ve never been clear on what is/isn’t allowed and what happens if you exceed the limit. My beer

supply has dwindled to an acceptable few, but the wine cellar is over stocked. The big question is: how do they

count boxed wine? Last year, we ended up with almost-full boxes of red & white. The guy asked; I told him; and he

waved us through. Our boxes are the equivalent of 4 bottles each, so two mostly full would be around six bottles,

which exceeds what I recall being the limit. I thought that maybe being opened made a difference. Operating on

that theory, I’m trying my level best to empty our open white box so I can break the seal on the remaining one and

honestly tell the border person it’s partially full. Janie also has a wine problem. She prefers bottles of Chateau St

Michele and still has two full ones. We’re both drinking to excess to make the limit, whatever that is. About all we

can do is tell the truth and hope for the best. I suppose the worst that can happen is it’ll get confiscated or we’ll

have to pay a tariff. Hey, Mark’ll pay, right?

Ate:

Granola

Burnett 5 Year Cheddar & Cranberry Walnut Bread

Ham Steak w/German Potato Salad & Veggies

Drive:

End: McNally CG #35, Grantsburg WI

Arrive: 3:20

Temp (degrees): 69

Elev (ft): 908

D (miles): 347

Mpg: 21.0

2019.05.29…WED…Day 45: … McNally CG, Grantsburg WI 2 …

Up: 5:36 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 60/49/57 Weather: Clear, High Clouds, Clear

Did:

We’re in Grantsburg, Crex Meadows State Wildlife Area is just up the road, it’s a beautiful morning … let’s ride

bikes. After morning beverages, we drove over to Crex and parked DALAS in the Picnic Area on the far north end

of the refuge. We didn’t bother with Granola. Rather, after getting us and the bikes ready, we woofed down a

Banana and headed out. Janie, thoughtful as she is, packed four slices of the yummy Cranberry Walnut Bread along

with the usual sorry collection of on-the-trail-emergency-rations. We didn’t even get on the road before we

started seeing FOTs … and Sandhill Cranes … and Trumpeter Swans. As I said yesterday, we’ve been here several

times and biked the more recent visits, so we were familiar with the lay of the land and knew what to expect. Boy,

were we fooled. On previous visits, we’d seen lots of waterfowl, today not so much. Reason: time of year. I think

they are holed up in the reeds tending to nests or chicks. To prove the point, we saw several Canada Goose pairs

with fluffy Goslings paddling frantically behind. They were very small, only recently hatched. What we did see and

certainly didn’t expect were Warblers. They are passing through and chowing down on whatever they can find. All

that bouncing around in the branches makes IDing difficult, but Janie came through like the champ she is. Today,

we biked more than we drove: 20 vs 10 miles. Of course, you can’t count the 8,000 miles to get here.

Hmmm, maybe I should describe Crex. From their brochure: “Crex Meadows Wildlife Area is a 30,000-acre

property of wetlands, brush prairies, and forests scattered across a gently rolling landscape.” Seems a little

sterile, so I’ll add some more. It’s beautiful. Everyone should come to visit. They have Cranes, Swans, Eagles, and

much else. It all began with the Sedges. From 1911-32, much of the area was owned by the Crex Carpet Company.

They harvested the sedges and used them to make grass carpet and wicker-like furniture. The name, Crex, was

derived from the Sedge plant’s Linnean name, Carex. After the company folded, the land fell into private ownership

until the state took it over. They are trying to return the land to the original brush prairie after being abused by a

succession of previous owners. We like the place and will stop every time we’re in this part of the world.

After our bike outing, Janie whipped up a couple Grilled Cheesewiches that we gleefully consumed at the picnic

table in the company of an Olive Sided Flycatcher. It’s call is described as “Quick, three beers”, so it must be a

geologist-bird. Our lunch was better than his … for us anyway. A slow drive through the refuge delivered us to the

VC where we belatedly picked up a bird list and took the Nature Walk. Back at camp, I filled up our fresh water

and we took a shower. Yikes! Janie found a Tick. We’ve gotten them here before. Now every little itch becomes a

Tick … in our minds anyway. I’m paranoid about Lyme Disease and whatever else Ticks can transmit. We already

have enough joint issues; we don’t need to add more.

I’m celebrating the day with my last Southern Tier 2x Milk Stout. It deserves my full attention, so I’ll bid you

adieu for today.

Saw:

We used the Bird List to check off what we saw today and came up with the grand total of 53 species, 12 of ‘em

FOTs. It was a good day for biking and wildlife. We’d barely begun our ride when Janie spotted a mature Bald Eagle

calmly perched in a tree. Well, it was calm until a Norther Harrier came swooping in to harass it. The Harrier was a

female and likely had chicks nearby. After the Harrier left, the Eagle stayed perched and let me get some

relatively close shots. This has been a very Wren-y trip. We got another one today: Sege Wren. Janie can hear

them calling, but my ears are past that level of detection, even with my expensive hearing aids. There were lots of

Warblers, both those we’d seen before and a few that were FOTs. We finally got our first Ring Necked Duck.

We’re usually coming from home when we’re up here, so Ring Necks are common in that scenario. Then there were

the Swans. They are so regal looking. Some of them had red-stained heads from dipping in the tannin-rich water.

The Sandhills are almost completely stained, rusty rather than their normal gray. Yep, it was a grand day for a bike

ride and wildlife viewing. Maybe we’ll do it again when we get to Seney NWR. Northern Parula

Rose Breasted Grosbeak

Chestnut Sided Warbler

Sedge Wren

Nashville Warbler

Golden Winged Warbler

Veery

Ovenbird

Great Crested Flycatcher

Yellow Bellied Sapsucker

Olive Sided Flycatcher

Harrier harassing a Bald Eagle

Two more BE, one mature, one immature

Paper Birch

Hoary Puccoon

Blue Violet-like flower (really big)

Red Columbine

Reflect:

So there we were, driving down the road yesterday – was it only yesterday – when Buffett came on doing his

"Travelin' Clean". For what must be the first time, I listened to the lyrics and got a little perplexed. Here’s the

opening; see if your can identify my confusion: You go to Fargo

We'll meet in Chicago

Travelin' light and travelin' clean

In my nine wheel blue and white travelin' machine

And I'm gone I'm movin' on yes I'm gone

Fargo … just came from there. Chicago … not gonna do it. Travelin’ light … sorta. Travelin’ clean … at times. In my

nine wheel … what? How do you get nine wheels on any vehicle, let alone a blue and white one? We got four. If we

had duals, we’d have six. From where I’m sitting, I can see a dozen ‘travelin’ machines’ and they all have four, six or

ten wheels. Nothing has any combination of wheels that total an odd number. I suppose you could count the spare;

that’d give you an odd number. Let’s see if that works on Buffett’s travelin’ machine. Counting the spare as one,

then you need eight to make nine. There are always two front wheels, so now you’re up to three. To get nine, you

need six more. Hmmm, I can see four and I can see eight, but I don’t see how you can get six unless you have duals

on one axes and singles on a second one. Ever seen that combination? Me neither. My conclusion: Buffett is trippin’

… unless … he’s counting the steering wheel. The spare+steering+two front+ … nope, never gonna be an odd number.

Yo, Jimmy, you’re missing a wheel or two.

Ate:

Banana

Cranberry Walnut Bread

Grilled Cheese

Mish-Mash of Leftover Beans, Sauces, Cheese & Seeds of Change Rice Rolled up in a Tortilla and fried in a modicum

of butter

Bike Data:

Trail: Crex Meadows Roads

ST: 8:00

ET: 1:30

TT: 5:30

BT: 3:04

D (miles): 20.33

Mx (mph): 13.2

Avg (mph): 6.6

Drive:

End: McNally CG #35, Grantsburg WI

Arrive: 3:56

Temp (degrees): 73

Elev (ft): 909

D (miles): 21

Mpg: 21.0

2019.05.30…THU…Day 46: McNally CG, Grantsburg WI … to … Sunday Lake CG, Wakefield MI Up: 5:46 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 59/51/58

Weather: Hazy, Sun, Hazy again

Did:

After morning beverages, we drove the five or so miles to Crex and did some of the roads we didn’t bike yesterday.

Two hours and 15 miles later, it was time for Granola. We pulled over near a large pool and were immediately

greeted by the cackle of a couple Sandhill Cranes feeding in the tall grass behind us. We were having breakfast

with the Cranes. Our stop constituted what we are now calling 20-Minute Magic. We saw or heard all these Crex

residents: Sedge Wren, American Bittern, Pileated Woodpecker, Red Shafted Flicker, Common Loon, Mallard,

Veery, Yellowthroat, Ruby Throated Hummingbird, Catbird, Trumpeter Swan, Beaver, Sandhill Crane, and, of

course, Red Winged Blackbirds & Cowbirds. Whew! And the Granola was good, too. In case you didn’t count, that’s

15 species, some of ‘em FOTs.

With a tear in our eye and a knot in our throat, we left Crex behind and headed eastward on a series of WI state &

county roads. Whoa, there’s the St Croix Indian Reservation; in we go to fuel up on $3.08/gal diesel. We’ve been in

this area so many times, it’s difficult to not repeat roads & places. Nonetheless, we were continually surprised when

we turned a corner and said, “We’ve been here before” or “Hmmm, that looks familiar.” The winters are harsh up

here, and they need to tap into some of that Trillion-Dollar Infrastructure proposed program. We may need new

shocks by the time we get home. The trees suggest that we are in the North Woods, or at least darned close.

After passing through some relatively rugged morainic material strewn with large boulders, we got into the

Precambrian stuff and … Iron Country. We drove right through the Gogebic district and will see more tomorrow.

Welcome to Michigan … our last state, just one more country to go before home. Like the OSU song says, we don’t

give a damn for the whole state of Michigan – except for the Upper Peninsula, and only that because of Seney

NWR. However, we will be driving through nearly all of MI before crossing the border into Ontario. Ah, but that’s a

few days away. Right now, we are sitting in site #18 of the Sunday Lake CG and have a clear view of Wakefield MI

across the lake. It’s a full-service CG, but we are only using the electric for a scant $25, which will be collected by

Jim at 5:30. We can see all the vehicles on US-2 across the lake, but fortunately, they are far enough away we

can’t hear them. Tomorrow, we’ll be one of ‘em.

Saw:

Oh, we saw a lot in our two hours in Crex. It started with a pair of Bald Eagles that were on the bank of a large

pool. We flushed ‘em, and they flew up to a dead tree and posed so I could take their portrait. Truly a bonded pair,

feeding together, perching together, sort of like us. We saw a mother Trumpeter Swan sitting demurely on her

nest keeping her eggs nice and warm. Later we saw a pair of Trumpeters trolling their recently hatched Cygnets

behind. I took their portrait, too. I didn’t get a shot of the Hooded Merganser family, but they were paddling along

on the pool as well. Our 20-Minute Magic provided a lot of activity. Janie can now ID the Sedge Wren by sound, and

they were singing all around the marsh. A pileated woodpecker flew over the grassy area where the Cranes were

feeding. It was our first of the trip, surprisingly. A female Ruby Throated Hummingbird came by to check out

DALAS’ taillights, and a male hummer has visited them here at the campsite. There was a pair of American Bitterns

standing along the roadside, but once they recognized us, they quickly turned into reeds. We saw another one fly

over during our breakfast stop. Bitterns are abundant in this habitat but rarely seen. One could be standing right

in front of you, but when it points its beak skyward, they look exactly like dead Cattail stalks … and that’s how they

have survived all these millennia.

All of that was great, but maybe even better was the Beaver. It was swimming toward its lodge when we startled

it, and a tail-slap later, it was safe in its home. We saw another Beaver later, but, unfortunately, it was dead. We’d

pulled over to look at some ducks when I looked down and saw the Beaver, belly up and starting to bloat. Kind of

sad, and, no, I didn’t take a picture of it. A Black Squirrel crossed our path just as we were leaving Crex. Goodbye

to all; we’ll be back to check on you again sometime. American Bittern (2 together, one flying later)

Pileated Woodpecker

Wilson’s Warbler

Swan Cygnets

Ruby Throated Hummingbird

Beaver (one alive & tail slap; one dead in the water, belly up & bloating)

Black Squirrel

Reflect:

We finally made it to MI. One more country to go and we’ll be home. We’ve passed through 17 states and only have

Ontario left. Our odometer says we’ll have covered almost 10,000 miles before DALAS gets back to Carmen. It’s

been a wild ride. I got curious about how many NWRs or similar places we’ve visited, so I counted ‘em up: 11 refuges

of one type or another. That doesn’t include the refuge-like highways we drove that were dripping with wildlife. We

have one more NWR left, and we will spend at least a day there, weather and road conditions permitting. Back when

we first started traveling around the country, our primary destinations were National Parks. After a few years,

they became too crowded, so we started focusing on National Monuments. They vary widely in size and purpose …

and they quickly got too crowded as well. Now we go to NWRs almost exclusively.

On this current trip, we visited four National Parks, two of ‘em were nice, the other too … well, you know, too

crowded to enjoy. By contrast, nearly all the Refuges we’ve visited have been super. The few that weren’t were

either too small or relatively barren at the time. Four NPs on one trip is more than usual, but we were there, it was

free, so we drove through. Of the four, Teddy Roosevelt and Redwood were by far the best. TR because we spent a

couple days and saw a lot of stuff; Redwood because AJ was with us … and the trees, of course. For the most part,

the NWRs were destinations that we went out of our way to visit; it becomes a connect-the-dots thing. We’ll go far

out of our way for big NWR like Bear River in UT and Malheur in OR. Going to these places form the skeleton of

our travel itinerary. It’s not for everyone, but it works for us. Now when the Refuges get too crowded … we’ll be

sitting at home, and you can come and wipe the drool off our chins, all of ‘em.

Ate:

Granola

Peanut Butter & Cracker

Chicken Gorgonzola w/Mixed Vegetables on Penne

Drive:

End: Sunday Lake CG #18, Wakefield MI

Arrive: 2:11

Temp (degrees): 72

Elev (ft): 1575

D (miles): 189

Mpg: 20.8

2019.05.31…FRI…Day 47: Sunday Lake CG, Wakefield MI … to … Big Cedar CG, Germfask MI Up: 5:45 (4:45) Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 63/60/64 Weather: Hazy Sun

Did:

What time is it? Technically, we awoke in Central Time because, although we are in MI, whomever is in charge of

defining the timeline decided it should be just a tad east of the WI/MI border. We’d set our clocks to Eastern

Time last night, so when we got up, it was … 5:45 or was it 4:45? Whatever, after a few minutes of driving on M-28

we passed the Eastern Time sign, our last change of the trip. M-28 was a delight in the morning. We drove for 30

miles before a vehicle came up behind. The early hour and light traffic may have contributed to deer crossing the

road. Two of ‘em ran right in front of us. Whew! That could have been a messy situation. The afternoon traffic was

more what I expected: too many people going way too fast for the narrow, two-lane road. We saw several log

trucks loaded down with … logs. We also saw the finished product: trucks piled high with freshly milled lumber. In

go the logs, out comes the product.

We pulled over at a Roadside Rest for a pee break and noticed the parking area was lined with hunks of Banded

Iron Formation (BIF). Ah yes, BIF, Precambrian and the source of this region’s economy, at least in the past. The

oxidized Iron, as I recall, is the result of Earth’s first atmospheric Oxygen. All those Algal Mats eventually

produced enough to saturate the oceans, and that allowed the excess to escape into the atmosphere and oxidize

the Iron weathering out of even older rocks. That simple explanation has probably changed since my teaching days.

It’s a nice story, however.

Years ago, we discovered a route around Marquette, and we repeated the process today. When we came out on the

other side, we were driving along the Big Sea Waters AKA Gitchegumee AKA Lake Superior. It’s scenic and there

are several pullouts offering a view of the lake. We used one of them for our Granola break. Our Garman indicated

the elevation to be a little under 600’. Okay, this is Lake Superior, and it connects to Lakes Michigan, Huron, Erie &

Ontario before issuing into the North Atlantic via the St Lawrence. In that distance, it only drops 600’. That just

happens to be the same drop for the Mississippi River where we crossed it on our outbound leg. 600’ doesn’t seem

like much but apparently it’s sufficient.

Next came Munising MI where M-28 turns south, away from Lake Superior, before heading east to Seney MI. That

40-mile stretch of road is referred to as the Seney Stretch and considered a boring drive by the locals. So boring,

they crank it up to 70 or more and zoom down the highway, passing anything going even 1 mph slower. We did it

much more slowly and were repeatedly passed. Finally, Seney and M-77, an only slightly quieter road, that takes us

to Seney NWR where everything slows down to a crawl. But before going into the refuge, we needed to secure a

campsite. Germfask is the nearest don’t-blink-town, and it has two private CGs. We plan to bike the refuge

tomorrow, and the second one is near one of the entrances. That’s the one we picked: Big Cedar CG, on the south

side of Germfask MI.

After paying our $26 for site #30, we went back to the refuge and pulled into the VC where we spoke with not

one, not two, but three friendly and informative women about the refuge, biking, and possible highwater issues.

Tomorrow’s weather is supposed to be good – only slight chance of rain and no appreciable wind – so we gathered up

maps and information with the intent of biking right from our campsite. We’ve done that very thing a few times

before and it made for a good ride. After getting our bearings, we took a slow drive on the Tour Road. Just like we

experienced in Crex, most of the waterfowl are hiding in the reeds either incubating eggs or tending to their

recently hatched chicks. Nonetheless, in an hour and a half we tallied 18 species, but no FOTs.

So here I sit, sipping my penultimate beer … a Founders Porter … and watching the Mosquitoes and Black Flies

clustering on our sliding-door screen. Unfortunately, some of ‘em got in while we were on the Tour Road, so we are

periodically doing the UP Wave trying to snatch ‘em out of the air. There goes another one … swat … damn … missed

it again.

Saw:

Well, we saw a lot of the UP, and we also saw a lot of Seney NWR. It’s … oh, hell, here’s what the brochure says:

Seney National Wildlife Refuge was established in 1935 as a refuge and breeding ground for migratory birds and other wildlife. The wild land

that today is the refuge has not always appeared so wild. This is a land that was once heavily logged, burned, ditched, drained and cultivated.

Despite repeated attempts, the soils and harsh conditions would not provide a hospitable environment for sustained settlement and agriculture.

So, nature claimed it once again.

Seney National Wildlife Refuge is located in the east-central portion of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, halfway between Lake Superior and Lake

Michigan. The 95,238 acre refuge encompasses the 25,150 acre Seney Wilderness Area.

As you can see, Seney is large. There are roads of gravel and/or packed sand that crisscross all but the wilderness

part where only canoe & foot traffic are allowed. Some of those roads and all the Tour Road are what we hope to

bike tomorrow. Seney seems to be a good habitat for Trumpeter Swan and Sandhill Crane, Caspian Tern and Loon.

In 1987, a Loon chick was banded, and it has returned to Seney every year since. At 32, it is the oldest known

member of its species. The ranger said its mate is older but wasn’t banded as a chick, so they don’t know how much

older. I don’t know how they know she’s older, but the ranger was definite in her description. We saw one Loon

today, maybe that was him. Let’s say it was.

The white board where they list the recent sightings indicated that a young Black Bear had been seen in the

refuge. Just as we were about to leave, we came up behind a stopped car. The man got out and came back tell us

there was Bear on the other side of the clearing. Sure enough, there it was, busily gathering up food tidbits. We

saw a Bear. Yay!

Black Bear

Reflect:

Yooper Bumper Sticker: Say Ya To Da UP, Eh?

So what’s Yooper? Here’s what Wikipedia has to say about it:

Upper Peninsula (UP) English, also known as Yooper English, or colloquially as Yoopanese, is a variety of American English native to the Upper

Peninsula of Michigan, locally abbreviated as "UP" and the basis for the endonym "Yooper". Upper Peninsula English is considered a subset of

North Central English, an American regional dialect in transition. Although spoken throughout the UP, it is primarily spoken in the western UP,

but also found throughout the Upper Midwest, especially in northern Wisconsin and northern Minnesota and to a degree in the northern lower

peninsula of Michigan and rural Ontario .

Yooper differs from standard English primarily because of the linguistic background of settlers to the area. Most people living in the Upper

Peninsula are of Finnish, French Canadian, Cornish, Scandinavian, German, or Native American descent. The Yooper dialect is also influenced by

the Finnish language making it similar in character to the so-called "Rayncher speek" (a dialect spelling of "Ranger speak")]spoken in the Mesabi

Iron Range in northeast Minnesota. Almost half the Finnish immigrants to the U.S. settled in the Upper Peninsula.

Ya, sure, you betcha. Yooper it is.

Ate:

Granola

Cranberry Walnut Bread

Beenie-Weenies

Drive:

End: Big Cedar CG #30, Germfask MI

Arrive: 12:48

Temp (degrees): 64

Elev (ft): 704

D (miles): 223

Mpg: 21.3

2019.06.01…SAT…Day 48: … Big Cedar CG, Germfask MI … Up: 6:45 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 56/47/56 Weather: Overcast - Clear

Did:

Looks like we’ve adjusted to the time change; sleepy heads got up later than usual. No problem, we only had to bike

over to Seney and spend the day in one of our favorite NWRs. We started on one of the back roads and took a

connector over to the Tour Road, which we biked all of once and some of it two or three times. In the past, we’d

started on the backcountry roads and ended up on the Tour Road later in the day when it was its busiest. The Tour

Road is a tour road for good reason. It winds its way around several pools and through varied habitat. Thus, it is

more productive – and scenic – than the backroads. Knowing that, we got on the Tour Road quickly and had it pretty

much to ourselves until midafternoon. It seems everyone was sleeping in today.

We started the day on an access road, and shortly after getting on it, we arrived at a bridge separating two

extremely scenic pools. It was early morning, the air was still and the pools were mirror like. A scream drew our

attention skyward where we saw a Bald Eagle and two pair of Osprey. The BE was movin’ on, maybe because the

Osprey were threatening it. One pair of Osprey also moved on, but the second stayed and circled lazily overhead.

One was carrying a knobby stick; we suppose to impress the other one: “Look what I can carry and use to build a

nest.” If so, it must have been an immature because all the other Osprey are already incubating eggs. Whatever, it

was a nice opening for our day in the refuge.

The connectors we took had gates that forced us to walk in the tall grass to get around them. Tall grass means

Ticks, and you know how we feel about Ticks. Once we got on the Tour Road, we headed to the VC where we could

sit on a bench and check for unwanted passengers … and watch a mama Osprey sitting on an unusually large stick

nest. No Ticks, so we went inside to talk to the volunteers. They showed us The Tick Jar, a glass jar with Ticks

that had been picked off visitor clothing. Yuck! We’d seen something that was bigger than a Muskrat and smaller

than a Beaver and wondered if it might have been an Otter. The VC has stuffed replicas of all three so we could

compare them with what we saw. Damn, it looked like an Otter. We can’t be certain, but it certainly wasn’t a

Beaver, and if it were a Muskrat, it was a very large one.

Back on the Tour Road, around and around until it was time for lunch. We pulled into the Trumpeter Swan

observation platform where there was a bench in the shade but, alas, no Swans. What we did see was our camping

neighbors. They stopped and we chatted a bit. She’s a retired Air Force Master Sargeant and she introduced her

husband as her war trophy. He spoke with a British accent, so I guess it was an overseas encounter. We couldn’t

talk long because their vehicle was rapidly filling with Mosquitos and Black Flies. Fortunately, the observation

platform had enough breeze to keep the buggers at bay. I have one of BAWB’s blue-handled AK-knives mounted on

my handlebar pack. It’s very noticeable, and when I’ve been asked about it, my response is always the same: “It’s

used to cut cheese and tomatoes for our sandwiches.” That’s what we did today.

After lunch, we biked the parts of the Tour Road that seemed best while working our way back toward where we

started. The traffic had picked up but wasn’t as bad as we recall from other visits. When we got to the bridge

between the two mirror pools, we noticed another road the Ranger had mentioned. A quick check of the time

revealed … yeah, we can do it. Off we go on the Goose Pen Loop. It was going on 4p by the time we finished, and we

were starting to feel the effect of the day’s activity. Time to hobble the horses (no, wait, Blaze may be a horse,

but Raven is a bird) on the back of DALAS, put stuff away and head to the showers.

We had a full day … almost 7 hours in the refuge and 28 miles of trail/road traveled. As a reward, I popped the top

on my last beer: Oskar Blues Old Chub Scotch Ale. It’s tasting pretty good so goodbye for now …

Saw:

Well, there were Osprey and Bald Eagles and Trumpeter Swans and Caspian Terns and Ring Necked Ducks and lots

and lots of Canada Geese … and … so much else. We may have seen an Otter, or at least a very large Muskrat. And

most of all, we saw lots of the idyllic Scenery (serene Seney scenery). The place is well maintained, the roads are

as perfect as non-paved roads get and at every turn you are presented a picture postcard view. It’s not that way in

bad weather, but today, it was just grand.

Janie’s tally for the day: 32 species. Only four of them were FOTs, however. Sora (heard)

Yellow Billed Cuckoo

Eastern Phoebe

Green Heron

Otter ?

Reflect:

We are in the North Woods … in the Spring … and that means … Mosquitoes, Black Flies & Deer Flies. Those pesky

things are why we started biking NWRs in the first place. Originally, we just drove them like the other tourists.

Then we started walking them but quickly discovered the folly of that idea: bzzzzz. Biking generates its own wind

and that keeps the little devils at bay … although they sometimes end up perched on the back of your shirt, in the

slip stream. Seney may be the first NWR we ever biked. It was back in the days of tent camping with the bikes

racked on top of the car. I remember parking in the VC parking lot and loading up the bikes for our very first

Seney ride. It was a 15-20 mile ride, depending on whether we had the gumption to ride the wrong way on the Tour

Road rather than risk our lives on the busy M-77 to get back to the VC. At the time, a fifteen-mile ride seemed

like a big deal. Big enough for me to strap a floor pump on my bike just in case … of what? I didn’t have a spare

innertube, so if I got a flat, I’d just have to keep stopping and pumping it up until we got back to the car … where I

still didn’t have a spare innertube. Oh, those were the days. Innocence and naivete ruled. Two campervans and

thousands of bike miles later, our primary limitation now is old age. That no one can defeat; we can only accept it

gratefully while doing as much as we can while we can … Can-Can …

Ate:

Granola

Cheese & Tomato Sandwich

Beef Marsala w/Peas on Noodles

Bike Data:

Trail: Seney NWR Roads

ST: 9:15

ET: 4:00

TT: 6:45

BT: 4:17

D (miles): 28.15

Mx (mph): 14.3

Avg (mph): 6.5

Drive:

End: Big Cedar CG #30, Germfask MI

Arrive: N/A N/A

Temp (degrees): N/A

Elev (ft): N/A

D (miles): N/A

Mpg: N/A

2019.06.02…SUN…Day 49: Big Cedar CG, Germfask MI … to … Otter Creek Village CG, Otter Lake MI Up: 5:00 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 56/44/54 Weather: Clear – T-Storms later

Did:

We started the day by taking care of at least part of our utilities - Gray & Black stuff – before leaving the CG. I

didn’t want to get water because it had probably been sitting in the pipes all winter. We’ll get some tonight, if it’s

needed. We motored down M-77 to US-2, which was almost empty on a Sunday morning – very unusual in our

experience. We passed Lehto’s Pasties shop, but they didn’t open until 10a … damn. Lehto’s is a Road Food place, and

we’ve sampled their Pasties several times in the past. It has been a family-run business since ’47 and continues to

be the place for UP Pasties. When you go in, you quickly learn that there is no menu. You have two choices: Pasties

fresh or Pasties frozen. That’s it, folks. And yes, they do contain rutabagas.

Next came the Mackinac Bridge over to Mackinaw City and I-75. Yep, two spellings for the same place. The bridge

can be a scary transit on a windy day, but it wasn’t windy when we crossed, although it did get gusty a bit later.

After fourscore miles down I-75, it was time to pull into a Roadside Rest for Granola. We’d had a quartering

tailwind most of the day and that really helped with the mileage. DALAS got up to 22 mpg on US-2 where I could

go slowly, and only dropped to 21 mpg on I-75 where I couldn’t. Amazingly, we only saw one semi on I-75 the whole

time we were on it. That’s Sunday for ya. Unfortunately, the lack of trucks was more than made up for by private

vehicles going to or coming from Sunday outings. It got progressively more congested as we approached Saginaw.

There is a Columbia outlet in Birch Run MI, just south of Saginaw. Janie’s long legs and short torso make fitting

difficult, but she’s found several Columbia tops/pants that work, with only slight modification. In we go to hunt for

more. Yay, they had some possibilities. I even found some biking pants and a lightweight hooded sweatshirt thing.

All our loot totaled $340 but the actual cost after discounts and coupons was … $162. That woman of mine, she’s

amazing. We got everything for less than half the sticker price, which was a sale price to begin with.

We fed DALAS some $2.99 diesel and headed away from I-75 on backroads wet from a rain that fell while we

were in the store. Shortly, we came to Otter Lake MI where Janie had learned there was a village CG. Sure enough,

it was right at the end of Main Street. In we go and negotiate for #21 with full hookup and showers for $33.

Seems like a lot but not when compared to the state park we usually stay in. There we must pay an entrance fee, a

camping fee and a reservation fee that adds up to almost $60. The village CG isn’t the least bit scenic with big rigs

parked cheek to jowl and us squeezed between. But it’s the same way in the state park … we are definitely back

east where things are much closer together, including the campers.

No beer tonight … my beer tray is empty. We’ve stayed out one more day than I stocked for, so I’ll have to drink

wine instead. It’s tough being me.

Saw:

Too much pavement going by much too quickly. About the only wildlife we saw was roadkill and Crows/Ravens

cleaning up the leavings. Things got a little better at a Roadside Rest on the north shore of Lake Michigan. There

were two immature Bald Eagles gliding along the shoreline at eyelevel. One gained a little elevation and then

swooped down toward the other. The target rotated its feet upward and they locked talons for a bit before

releasing and getting back to fishing. Kids. Once we got off I-75, we started seeing many of the expected birds

like Robin, Grackle, Redwing and even a Killdeer. Spring has sprung down here. The trees are in full leaf and Dame’s

Rockets were blooming along the highway … and the Sun is hot.

Reflect:

This is our last real night on the road. Tomorrow we’ll cross the border and spend a few days in London with

Mikey’n’Mare … then Naweedna. I guess it’s appropriate; tomorrow will be our 50th day on the road. During today’s

drive, we played the campground game wherein we try to remember the campgrounds we stayed in from day one up

to last night. Janie keeps a list, so we could grade our memories. Hey, we got a lot more correct than expected.

Strangely, one we missed was Teddy Roosevelt. Wonder what that means? As we named them off, I tried to

visualize the campground. Oddly, I seem to remember the roads before and after as much as the campground

itself. Memories are one of the main reasons I write this log every evening. Back when I was fourteen, I started

recounting the things that happened during the day. The idea was to create memories. After all, why do things if

you can’t remember them? That nightly recounting of events continued throughout my formative years and is now

formalized in these Trip Logs and the regular Saturday AM missives. Memories, life is basically a tapestry of

memories populated by family, friends, places and events … and … trees, birds, mammals, butterflies, mushrooms,

slime mold … and … weather, water, desert, dessert, and rocks …

Ate:

Granola

Five-Year Cheddar

Mac’n’Cheese’n’Tuna’n’Peas

Drive:

End: Otter Creek Village CG #21, Otter Lake MI

Arrive: 2:33

Temp (degrees): 60

Elev (ft): 878

D (miles): 306

Mpg: 20.6 (was 22.0 before I-75)

2019.06.03…MON…Day 50: Otter Creek Village CG, Otter Lake MI … to … Mikey’n’Mare’s, London Ontario Up: 5:55 Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): 53/42/51 Weather: Clear, Windy & Cool

Did:

It was the 3rd of June, but it wasn’t another sleepy, dusty delta day. It was a bright, cool, windy day. We were

about 70 miles from the border crossing, which we reached via backroads. After paying $3 to cross the bridge (not

the Tallahatchie), we were greeted by a surprisingly attractive, young border agent, an unnatural blonde. After the

usual questions about where you going, guns & alcohol, she laid this one on me:

“Where you coming from?”

“Well, we’ve been on the road for 50 days and been in 17 states; want a list?”

(smile) “Road Trip … you retired?

“Oh, yeah!”

And we were on our way into Canada. Just like last year, having two open boxes of wine didn’t cause the agent to

bat a mascaraed eye. The border crossing channels you right onto the busy 402, so we took the first exit to

Exmouth Road to accommodate our slower pace.

Janie decided to blaze a new route to M’n’M’s. It worked a treat until: “Take a right.” Oops: “I mean your other

right.” After taking a lap through the development, we pulled into M’n’M’s drive, turned off the engine and moved

into the house. They have a basement apartment that they rent out to U of Western Ontario students. It was

empty and we filled it. We usually stay in DALAS, otherwise we end up making umpteen trips back and forth getting

this and that. This time, we packed everything we expected to need and lugged it inside. Well, as you might guess,

we didn’t manage to get everything we need … we forgot their gifts and the wine boxes and … other stuff that

somehow becomes important when you don’t have it readily available.

After a brief greeting, we hit the shower and put on clean clothes. It was time … past time, actually. We arrived

earlier than any of us expected, and Mare was out running errands, so we sampled some of her Tortilla Soup in her

absence. It was Monday and that’s trivia night at a local pub ... an M’n’M tradition that we enjoyed on our last visit.

After Mare returned, we prepared mentally & physically for the night’s challenges. We opted to go to the bar early

and enjoy some pub grub before the team gathered for the heated (not really) contest. It was a double music night

because last week the moderator lost his thumb drive with the music. They play snippets of popular music and

expect the contestants to ID it. Nearly all of it is modern compared to my old-man music, but I’m expected to

come through for the few oldies they lay on us. This time I got Duke Ellington’s “Take the A-Train” and pulled Dick

Dale out of my butt at the last minute. The track was easily recognized as a surf tune but not The Beach Boys or

Ventures … it had to be Dick Dale, King of The Surf Guitar, right? Right!

Back home for a summation of the day’s activity … and bed. Zzzzzz …

Saw:

The border … American Goldfinch in Canada, must be a North American Goldfinch.

Northern Cardinal … hadn’t seen a Cardinal in a long time.

Mikey’n’Mare … always a welcome sight.

Reflect:

We’re in a house with a real kitchen, living room, bedroom & bathroom with a shower for the first time in 50 days.

We kept getting lost. Where’s my … too much room … we lost sight of each other frequently. We were with special

friends; one of whom dates to the 70s. Friends … True Friends … when you haven’t seen ‘em for a while and you pick

up right where you left off.

Ate:

Mare’s Tortilla Soup & Mikey’s Cornbread

Pub Grub: Beer ‘n Cheese dip and Deep-dish pizza Canadian-style, eh?

Drive:

End: M’n’M’s, London Ontario

Arrive: 11:25

Temp (degrees): 56

Elev (ft): 933

D (miles): 128

Mpg: 20.8

2019.06.04…TUE…Day 51: … Mikey’n’Mare’s, London Ontario 2 … Up: ?? Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): ?? Weather: ??

Did:

Time For A Nice, Brisk Sit. It was a working day for Mare. Her job is to goes around to all the places that sell Coke

– essentially every business – to see if the shelving and stocking is compliant with the signed contracts. The

weather was changing from brisk to steamy signaling possible rain tomorrow. If we were going to take a bike ride,

it would have to be after Mare returns this afternoon. Hey, sitting around talking and imbibing is what we do best.

Let’s just continue with our Brisk Sit … and eat. The eating began with one of Mikey’s signature Omelets … don’t ask

what’s in it other than eggs and other good stuff, topped with spicy good stuff. Once Mare returned, it was time to

create a Shepherd’s Pie, for which she is famous. While it sat getting to know itself, we continued solving world

problems. That’s about all I recall: eating, drinking, talking. We are virtuoso time-fillers.

Saw:

A lot of M’n’M’s house … and some computer stuff.

Reflect:

The familiar quickly swamps the exotic. We can spend 40-50 days in exotic terrain and it all fades away in a day or

two of the familiar. A lifetime of Eastern Deciduous Forest quickly erases the memory of a Sea of Sage, Redwood

Forests and Marsh. Guess we’ll just have to keep going to these exotic terrains until they can hold their own with

the familiar.

Ate:

Mikey Omelet

Shepherd’s Pie, Salad, Garlic Toast … muff

Drive:

End: M’n’M’s

Arrive: N/A

Temp (degrees): N/A

Elev (ft): N/A

D (miles): N/A

Mpg: N/A

2019.06.05…WED…Day 52: … Mikey’n’Mare’s, London Ontario 3 … Up: ?? Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): ?? Weather: ??

Did:

A Rainy Day In London Town. No biking today. Rather, we had another version of Mikey’s Omelet and headed out to

secure some provisions and visit Bettina Weber, a long-time Trivia member. She has a shop, Bettina Firenze,

featuring such things as Fine Italian Gloves & Scarves, Unique Artisan Gifts. Nearly every item in her shop has a

story behind it. Very interesting, with the bonus of being educational.

Janie scored some of her special tea, Yorkshire Gold, at A Taste of Britain. We also made the requisite visit to

Loblaw’s where we picked up Janie’s favorite Digestive Biscuits and some items to complete tonight’s feast of what

Dad used to call hangovers. Mare recognized the lady offering samples of Wayne Gretzky wine, of all things. Mare

knew the woman from when she had the same sales job. After a nice conversation and some wine samples we

decided to continue wine-ing at home ... once you start on wine … well, there goes the afternoon.

We augmented some of our continuing wine-tasting with an assortment of cheeses, crackers, Braunschweiger, hard

salami, garlic-stuffed olives and smoked salmon all topped off with some of Mare’s Pepper Jelly. Just a little snack

before the big dinner to come. Between the two gastronomic experiences, we continued to wine-out … and watch

some of the D-Day festivities in France. The difference between the US & Canadian coverage was startling. The

US had Trump conveying his message with a backdrop of bleachers filled with people, including the vanishingly few

WWII veterans still extant. It was more like a political rally than the memorial it was intended to be. The Canadian

version took place at Juno beach where they landed on D-Day. The participants were backed by an expansive and

sparse view of the beach and open ocean beyond. It was solemn and moving. Big difference: showtime vs

commemorative where the Sacrifice was the focus rather than Me, the Big T, Stable Genius, The Only One.

Mikey related a story from Mare’s hometown, purported to be true, which I will now imperfectly recount. Mare

grew up in Clinton, Ontario, with a population of fewer than 3,000, and Bob & Mary Cox were two of those

inhabitants. When Bob visited downtown, he tended to stay a little longer than Mary thought appropriate. One day,

when Bob had been absent for an extended period, Mary decided to go hunt him down. She checked all the usual

spots like the old-man diner and bar, but he wasn’t to be found. Finally, Mary decided to check the barbershop.

When she arrived at the door, she stuck her head in and asked, “Bob Cox in here?” The replay was swift and to the

point: “No, just shave and haircut.” Man, if only I could think that fast.

Saw:

Interesting shops in London Ontario, including Bettina Firenze boutique.

Reflect:

We need to get out more. London is a cosmopolitan city with a European flare. For example, Bettina is of German

heritage, selling Italian goods in Canada. I always feel like an unsophisticated slob in such an environment. Ah, but

Mikey, being American as well, always provides a touch of reality and grounding.

Ate:

Mikey Omelet

Snacks & Wine

Hangovers – of both kinds

Drive:

End: M’n’M’s

Arrive: N/A

Temp (degrees): N/A

Elev (ft): N/A

D (miles): N/A

Mpg: N/A

2019.06.06…THU…Day 53: Mikey’n’Mare’s, London Ontario … to … Naweedna Up: ?? Temp (In/Out/Under Bed): ?? Weather: ??

Did:

It’s time to go home. It’s our 53rd day and Naweedna has suffered enough benign neglect. We could easily stay

another day or two but … that would result in dealing with the border on a weekend. Nope, time for one more

driving day through the familiar surroundings of southern Ontario and WNY.

It all began with an ocean of coffee followed by packing and backing out of their driveway – ever so slowly. We

were between the 8 and 9 AM rush and opted to head around the western edge of the city. Then it was backroads

down to Regional 3 that skirts the north shore of Lake Erie. We pulled over in a church parking lot for Granola and

topped that off with the traditional Wendy’s Frosty just before crossing the bridge to the good ol’ USofA.

Not wishing to enjoy my Frosty – if that’s even possible – while driving, we opted to stop at a park overlooking the

less than scenic Buffalo skyline. It seems that during that time, a hoard of people decided to cross the border.

The line was long and confused by the time we arrived. We got to watch a woman rearranging traffic cones as

additional booths came online to accommodate the rush. It would have been comical if they hadn’t opened the RV

line across several lanes of impatient fellow-crossers. Blink, blink, blink … our turn signal was finally honored by a

driver who was anxious to trade places. When we got to the RV booth, we were greeted by an older, relaxed border

guy with a sense of humor, but not nearly as cute as the Canadian woman we’d encountered on the way into Canada.

He didn’t even ask the usual questions, of if he did, he seemed bored by ‘em. He did ask where we were coming

from, and I gave the same answer: “From out west after 53 days on the road.” His wistful reply: “Retired?” With

that, he wished us safe travels and waved us through. Before pulling away, I looked him in the eye and thanked him

for being so convivial.

Out of Buffalo, off I-190 and on NY-354 and Two Rod Road where we fed DALAS before continuing on ever

smaller backroads to Naweedna. Hey, need any hay? The grass was knee-high and gone to seed. When I mow, I’ll be

reseeding the yard … and everything else where the cuttings are blown … unfortunately, some of Janie’s flower

beds. Unfortunate for me, because Janie can no longer remove the grass in the flower beds, so they become more

for me to mow. Ah, the price of benign neglect. Hey, the barn door is open. Wonder if it’s been open the entire

time – probably. Don’t know how it happened, but if any door can be left open, it’s that one. Once DALAS and the

bikes are gone, the barn is essentially empty. OMG, what if it had been the garage? Don’t go there.

We showered, put on comfy house-clothes and took up residence on the back porch. I’d fired up the desktops and

started the never-ending updates that we’d missed while on the road. The music was playing through our Golden

Ears and sounding very good. The Monkey was displayed on our new 55” HDTV and it was looking as good as the

speakers sounded. Home again …

Saw:

Lake Erie and Lake Ontario … both of which are standing at high water. All the Great Lakes we saw were high due

to the extensive rain and snow melt in the upper Midwest. I’m sure the NY shorelines will be flooded again this

year … and likely many years into the future.

Reflect:

Time to go home. It’s been a grand tour … likely the last time we’ll see some of the places we visited. I’d

fanaticized about going all the way to the Pacific, and now we’ve done it. It was grand and made even better by AJ’s

visit. Good times, but now we need replace our traveling routines with our more familiar home routines. Wonder how

many days it will take to settle back in? Hey, we made it without running out of DEF.

Ate:

Granola

Frosty

Spaghetti

Drive:

End: Naweedna

Arrive: 4:02

Temp (degrees): 74

Elev (ft): 928

D (miles): 235

Mpg: 20.7

============= TOTALS =============

Trip Totals:

Days: 53

D (miles): 9,103

Cost: $5, 772, including gifts and the like – What the heck, Mark will pay for it!

Bike Totals:

TT (hrs): 32.92

BT (hrs): 19.96

D (miles): 138.41

Birds Total: 212, 3 Lifers

11 Wildlife Refuges + several drives that were similar