Natural Extracts

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Natural Extracts and Herbal O ils:Con cen tra ted B en efits for the Skin

B y A n thon y C . D we ck, P ete r B la ck T oile trie s, T row brid ge , E ng la nd

Itoday's "green" age, we who formulate and marketskin care products must all tum our thoughts to econ-omizing in packaging. "Big being beautiful" should bechanged to "precious provides perfection." Our prod-uct's effect on the environment is an issue that can nolonger be avoided. We must give the consumer bettervalue in smaller packages. Combining natural skin careingredients in concentrated formulations is one way tomarket skin care products for a "green" age.This approach draws on solutions of the past and ap-plies modem technology to make those solutions usefulin current times. It also incorporates brainstorming andlateral thinking to help us find real innovation in relatedsciences.

Using Extrac tsOur search for a "green" concept utilizes the author'sextensive database on natural and medicinal plant ex-tracts compiled from literature obtained from alloverthe world. (Ageneral reference list of the major volumeshas been included for further reading.)We draw, for example, on the extensive knowledge ofAyurvedic medicine. Chinese herbal medicine, ancientEgyptian herbal knowledge, American Indian herbalogy,European folk lore, aromatherapy and the experience ofherbalists and phytotherapists.The extracts recommended in this paper have beenfully investigated, but the enormous volume of data doesnot permit a full reference listing. The ultimate objectivemust be safety, with products that not only maintain, butalso improve the skin, while remaining in the confines ofcosmetic and medicinal legislation.The product benefits sought in this paper will comefrom selected plant materials, which must be profession-ally extracted from high quality sources in order to pre-serve the trace elements present in them. Aqueous,

hydroglycolic, alcoholic and distilled extracts will be em-ployed, aswell as the essential oils.In use, these products will need to be applied sparinglyand consistently over a considerable period of time. Un-like physicians' potent drugs, which act almost im-mediately, herbal extracts used in cosmetic preparationswork slowly but effectively over a period of weeks oreven months. Those who doubt the efficacy of plant ex-

DefinitionsNatural-available from nature without chemi-cal modification or intermediate syntheSiS. Ifwewere to be pedantiC, then "nature identical" doesnot satisfYthis criteria-though for reasons ofcost,some may allow this extension of the definition.Green-kind to the environment, conserving re-sources and not adding detrimental elements to thesea, land or air. Itmust not disturb the natural bal-ance or equilibrium. It should be recyclable or

completely biodegradable within a defined timespan. The process to produce the entire productshould be energy conscious and every element ofthe final result should serve a practical purpose.Ethical-the finished product or blend of ingre-dients should not be tested on animals. WhereverpOSSible,ingredients with a long history of safe useshould be employed. Any testing should be "invitro" as opposed to "in vivo." DermatolOgists andophthalmologists should be consulted in order toavoid the use of known irritants and allergens.Products should be tested on human volunteersusing patch testing techniques.

Vol. 107,May 1992 0361-4387/92/0005-0089S03.00/O- 1992Allured Publishing Corp. Cosmetics & Toiletries/89


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Weuse ultrasound technology in our lab toaccurately prove your product in the market.U l t r a s o u n d is o n e o f t h e a d va n c e dte c h n o lo g ie s e m p lo y e d in I R S I 's u n iq u en e w V a lu e I n T e s t in g p ro g ra m f o r e v a lu -a t in g p ro d u ct s o r in g re d ie n ts w i t h g re a te rs p e e d a n d p re c is io n . . . a t lo w e r c o s t .B y i t s e l f , u lt r a s o u n d is a v it a l n e wt o o l f o r r e a l t im e t e s t in g a n d r e c o rd in g o fc o s m e tic a c t iv it y F u rt h e r b y jo in in g i tw i t h a t r a d it i o n a l c li n ic a l s tu d y , w e c a nr u n p ro g ra m s t h a t c o m b in e q u a n t i t a t iv ea n d q u a li t a t iv e e v a lu a t io n s , p r o d u c in ga d d it io n a l, a n d m o r e a c cu ra te , d a ta .U l t r a s o u n d is ju s t o n e o f t h ea d v a n c e d te c h n o lo g ie s I R S I u s e s in o u r

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tracts are normally using the wrongyardstick against which to measureand assess their performance. Itshould be remembered that thefoundation ofmodern medicine (200years old)wasbuilt on that ofherbal-ism (6000years old).U sin g C on ce ntr ate d P ro du ctsIn order to reduce product volume

and thus also packaging, the majorcomponent to target in most formu-lationswould bewater. Most formu-lators (myself included) throw theirhands up in horror at this stage!Non-aqueous products are normallyheavyto apply,occlusiveand sticky-or at least they havebeen so, histori-cally.Itcertainly is not a new concept,

however. The use of unguents waswellunderstood and documented bythe ancient Egyptians, who were notfamiliar with emulsion technology(apart from the use of animal milk).Furthermore, use of salvesand oint-ments isquite normal inthe pharma-ceutical industry where small quan-tities ofapplied product pack aheavypunch ofbenefit.Sk in C leanse rsFor Sensitive or Delicate Skin:

Ablend ofnatural oilscan offer bet-ter possibilities than a detergent-based skincleanser for sensitive skin.There are somany carrier and essen-tial oils available that one is spoiledwith choices. Obviously, the higherthe degree of saturation, the lesschance there isof oxidation and sub-sequent rancidity.The main criteria for selection of

carrier oils should be maximum lu-bricity, pale color and low odor. Tothisblended carrier, one can add theessential oilts). Typical choices forthe carrier oil are shown inFigure 1.One could select avarietyof themes,such as seed oils, nut oils or grainoils.The addition of wheat germ oil

(fortified with additional vitamin E)will not only provide antioxidantproperties, but will also give free-radical-scavenging properties thatare beneficial to the skin.The inclusion of an essential oil

such as lavender oil provides fra-grance, alongwith other proven skinVol. 107, May 1992


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benefits. There are many other aromatherapy oils andfine oils that could be considered.For Normal Skin: To wash normal skin, either a de-tergent-based skin cleanser or a cleanser based on natu-

ral oilswould be appropriate.Nature does provide a cleanser in saponin. The mostcommon sources would be quillaja bark (Quillajasaponaria) or soapwort (Saponariaofficinalis). Addition-allyone might consider wild yam (Dioscorea villea). Thelatter was frequently used as a natural source of dios-genin-a starting point for the synthesis of hydrocorti-sone. However, despite these materials having beenused in the past for foam baths and shampoos, the sur-veyed literature presents too much conflicting evidencefor one to be certain of each material's safety.Once introduced into the blood stream, saponin cancause hemolysis of the red blood cells. An open woundcould, therefore, bring the possibility of complicationsthat would far outweigh any benefits. In addition, all ofthese saponins are toxic to fish and therefore-thoughnatural-they are not environmentally friendly. A fewtypical saponin- bearing plants are shown in Figure 2.The compromise would be to use a good quality deter-gent blend of betaine and sodium lauryl ether sulphate athigh concentration, with a coconut diethanolamide al-temative- as a thickener. The criteria of mildness and"Such as Arlypon F, from Henkel

biodegradability coupled with these ingredients' abilityto produce a concentrated product far outweigh anybenefits that could be achieved using saponins.Essential oils of the type shown in Figure 3 offer thebenefit of fragrance. Although some users might findthat an oil istoo greasy, using exceptionally 'light' naturaloils blended with the volatile silicone oils now availableshould give a product that is acceptable to most people.For Oily Skin: A detergent cleanser is essential for

oily skin, and there are a number of interesting naturaloptions that could be considered. Deep-penetratingcleansing coupled with sebum regulation is essential.Extracts that would be suitable for the treatment ofoily skin appear in Figure 4. Skin sloughing is an impor-tant consideration for this skin type, and has been advo-

cated by many learned authorities.For Combination Skin: Most users with combinationskin would likely prefer a detergent-based cleanser, sofollow the suggestions made above for normal skin types.The extract selected must not be too aggressive for thedry skin areas of the facial tissue, yet it should offer some

solutions for the classic "T" zone of greasy skin. Exam-ples of suitable extracts are shown in Figure 5.For Problem Skin: Problem skin needs the same skincleanser used for Oilyskin, but in this case we choose ex-tracts that are specific not only for sebum regulation, but

also have antiseptic and skin-healing properties and arerenowned for their use in skin problems. Our objective

iiiFILAGRINOL~ at a con-centration of 8-10%, represents themost effective ingredient to im-prove 6ctive skin hydration.PASSIVE HYDRATION AND ACTIVE HYDRATIONin Lexicon Vevy Europe 4:66-76, 1990

FURTHER INFORMATION AVAILABLE

VEVYEUROPEINTERDISCIPLINARY CORPORATE UNITSFOR BIO-TECHNO-CHEMICAL PROCESSINGHEADQUARTERS: Via Semeria No 18, 16131 Genova, Italy. P.O. Box 716.Telex 281257 (VEVY-I). Fax (10) 316343, Phone (10) 314193-4-5CONTINENTAL UNIT: Route Suisse 9, 1295 Mies (by Geneva), Switzerland.Telex 419243 (THEO-CH). Fax (22) 7551380. Phone (22) 7555722NORTH AMERICAN UNIT: 31-26, 74th Jackson HTS., NY 11370, USA.Fax (71~ 4247315,Phone (71~ 4247292

Vol. 107, May 1992 Cosmetics & Toiletries/91


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Almond Prunus dulcisApricot Prunus armeniacaArachis Arachis hypogaeaAvocado Persea americanaBanana Musa sapien tumBarley Hordeum distichon- Caraway Carum carviCastor Ricinus communisHazel Corylus avellanaJojoba Simmondsia chinensisMacadamia Macadamia ternifoliaOlive Olea EuropaeaPeach Prunus persicaSafflower Carthamus tinctoriusSesame Sesamum indicum

Sesame Sunflower Helianthus annuusFigure 1. Carrier oils

Horse Chestnut Aesculus hippocastanumGlycyrrhiza glabraiquorice

Soap Bark, Panama Bark,Quillaia, Cullay (native) Quillaja saponariaSoapwort, Bouncing Bet Saponaria officinalisSarsaparilla Smilax aristolochiifoliaWild Yam Oioscorea vil/osa

Figure 2. Saponin-containing plants

BenzoinCedarwoodCinnamonGeraniumJasmineLavenderLemonLemon GrassMelissa

Bitter OrangeFigure 3. Fragrant essential oils

BergamotCypressElderflowerGeraniumYarrowCalendulaLovageSandalwoodYlang YlangLemonSalviaSeaweedWitch HazelStinging NettleHibiscus

Citrus bergamiaCupresses sempervirensSambucus nigra

Geranium macula tumAchillea millefoliumCalendula officina lis

Legusticum levisticumSantalum albumCananga odorataCitrus limonumSalvia hispanica

Ascophylum nodosumHamamelis virginiana

Urtica urensHibiscus abelmoschus

Figure 4. Plants for oily skins

Sarsaparilla

MyrrhPatchouliPeppermint

PineRose

RosemarySandalwood

ThymeYlang Ylang

Geranium

BabassuTomatoCamelliaRiceCarrotKukuiEvening PrimroseRoman Chamomile

Orbignya speciosaLycopersicum esculentum

Thea sinensisOryza sativa

Oaucus carotaAleurites moluccansOenethera biennisAnthemis nobile

Figure 5. Oils for combination skin

ChaulmoograFigure 6. Healing oils

S1. John's WortElderflowerAloe veraColtsfootMallowQuinceAcaciaCarrotOrchidComfreyHoney

MimosaCajuputTea TreeThymeJuniperRose HipArnicaGarlicMargosaChaulmoogra

Hypericum performatumSambucus nigra

Aloe veraTussilago farfaraMalva sylvestrisCydonia oblongaAcacia senegalOaucus carotaOrchis mascula

Symphytum officinale

Figure 7. Dry skin extracts

Honeysuckle

CornflowerCleaversBlackberryAgrimonyBearberryShinleafClary SageHoneysuckleStrawberry

Figure 8. Normal skin extracts

LindenWitch HazelDandelionAvensWillowLily

Tilia cordataHamamelis virginianaTaraxacum officinale

Geum urbanumSalix vitellina

Nymphaea odorata

Mimosa tenuitloraMelaleuca leucadendron

Melaleuca alternifoliaThymus vulgaris

Juniperus communisRosa canina

Arnica montanaAllium sativum

Azadirachta indicaTaraktogenos kurzii

Roman Chamomile

Orchid

Centaurea cyanusGalium aparine

Rubus fruticosusAgrimonia eupatoria

Arctostaphylos uva-ursiPyrola ellipticaSalvia sclarea

Lonicera periclymenumFragaria vesca

Figure 9. Antiseptic/skin clearing extracts Dandelion

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OakBetonyGermanderHeatherBlessed ThistleCinquefoilElmGoldenrodMeadowsweetGentian

Quercus roburBetonica officinalis

Teucrium chamaedrysCal/una vulgaris

Cnicus benedictusPotentil/a canadensis

Ulmus campestrisSolidago virgaureaFilipendula ulmaria

Gentiana luteaGentian

Figure 10. Problem skin extracts

EyebrightGolden SealCornflowerFennelMarigoldPlantainQuinceClary SageMallow

Euphrasia officinaleHydrastis canadensis

Centaurea cyanusFoeniculum vulgareCalendula officinalisPlantago officinalisCydonia oblonga

Salvia sclareaMalva sylvestris

FennelFigure 11. Extracts for the eyes

should be prevention rather than cure. Examples ofthese extracts are shown in Figure 6.There is insufficient space to give a full treatise on allpossible oils that have bacteriostatic, bactericidal orweak antibiotic action. The extracts chosen are particu-larly respected for skin healing and for help in clearingeczema, psoriasis and acne.These oils are very strong in their action, and careshould be exercised in their use. They should never beapplied at full strength to the skin, but should always bediluted with the carrier oil. Arnica in particular, though avery effective remedy, should always be diluted beforeuse in order to eliminate the risk of photosensitization.The TonerAvoid using perfume oils in toners. In their place wewould advocate the use of hydro essential oils. These arewater-soluble alcoholic extracts obtained by extractingoils in ethanol. Generally, they have a powerful aromawith short skin-life. Only a few are commercially avail-

able.For Dry, Sensitive orDelicate Skin:We are in trou-ble from the start with a toner, since the last thing thatwe want on dry skin is the astringency ofalcohol. Most ofthe products on the market today are alcohol-free, pre-dominantly water with appreciable levels of humectant.In order to provide a concentrated benefit, we wouldprescribe a blend of aqueous extracts blended in purehumectant, which could be applied as a few drops to theface. The end product would be sold in a reagent or eye-dropper capped bottle.The extracts that we recommend for d ry or sensitive

skin concentrate on skin healing and moisturizing, asshown in Figure 7.Honey and aloe vera are exceptional in their action: themedicinal data relating to their effectiveness is prolific.Indeed, concentrated aloe vera gel could be used as thesole component to excellent effect.The incorporation of glycerin (nonanimal source), so-dium peA, sorbitol, propylene glycol, one of the Glucamrange, or Lubragel (which has an excellent emolliencyand skin feel) would contribute to the maintenance ofskin moisture.The addition ofcomfrey would give a natural source ofallantoin, for which significant substantiation exists of itsskin-healing action.For Normal Skin: A degree of astringency in theVol. 107, May 1992

toner is important here, in order to obtain a refreshing,skin-tightening effect while removing the last vestiges ofcleanser.It is difficult to generalize on the total alcohol content,since this varies enormously in acceptability from coun-

try to country. However, the blending of witch hazel(Hamamelis virginiana) with naturally-fermented and-distilled alcohol would achieve the desired level.It is difficult to see how one could reduce the overallvolume of this product. However, one could certainly in-crease the effectiveness and potency of the product byadding skin-beneficial ingredients from the listin Figure 8.For Oily Skin: In a toner for oily skin, we are looking

for a high degree of astringency. In addition to naturalfermentation grades of alcohol, we should consider plantmaterials containing high tannin levels. These extractswill give a skin-tightening effect without stripping skin ofits natural oils. The objective should be to reduce the ac-tivity of overactive sebum glands to control excess oili-ness.It should be recognized that hyperactive sebum glandscan lead to major skin problems such as spots, pimples,carbuncles and furuncles. When pores become blocked,then the possibility of blackheads arises, with the associ-

ated possibility of skin infection and subsequent inflam-mation. The addition of mildly antiseptic extracts tomaintain a healthy skin flora of bacteria and to supplyhealing agents helps provide a balanced product.Again, it is difficult to determine savings on packagevolume, but the potency of the product can be increasedusing the extracts of Figure 9.For Problem Skin: There are many causes for prob-lem skin, including adolescence or puberty inyoung peo-ple. Ascosmetic chemists, we can only target prevention,since some skin conditions require either orthodox me-dicinal treatment or strong herbal preparations that lieoutside of our legal jurisdiction.In addition to tackling the effects of excessive sebumproduction, we need to educate the consumer on the im-portance of hygiene and regular cleansing.The product needs to have a high alcohol content to re-move excess sebum from the skin. At the same time, it

needs to have the astringency that can be obtained usingnatural tannins. The toner extracts advocated for Oilyskin would apply here.In addition to the antiseptic/clearing agents, a numberof problem skin extracts has been selected. Known heal-

Cosmetics & Toiletries/93


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ing (vulnerary) and reputed scar-healing (cicatrising)agents should be included. (See Figure 10for examples.)Itmust be stressed that some of these extracts are ex-tremely powerful and should not be used directly (i.e.,undiluted) on the skin.In order to discourage continual touching of the facialarea, a bitter agent such as quassia (Picraena excelsa) orBitrex should be included.Finally, to discourage the spread of infection through

minor skin abrasions and openings (such as pustules andspots), we would recommend the inclusion of naturalmaterials (such as those in Figure 9) that have an anti-septic action.The inclusion of homeopathic tinctures with skin ben-efits might also be considered for balancing of skin cellfunction.Moisturizer and Night CreamThe reduction of packaging size for moisturizers andnight creams could be achieved by the use of oils andsalves for dry skin, and by the use of concentrated gels

for the normal-to-greasy/problem skin variants as dis-cussed before.The use of pure aloe vera gel or Lubrajel with addedaqueous or hydroglycolic extracts should also be consid-ered. The extracts for the various skin types are the sameas those used in toners (Figures 7-9).These alternatives will never achieve the smooth tex-tural application of a well-formulated emulsion, but one

may use additives (such as corn starch, volatile siliconeoil or one of the new breed of silky esters) to get a fairlygood result.- Under the heading of moisturizers, one should notoverlook the special area of the eye. The very sensitiveand delicate orbital area isan especially difficult area forwhich to formulate. Products must not be heavy, uncom-fortable or too occlusive.There are a number ofnatural extracts that are specificfor use around the eye (Figure Ll ), indeed many ofthemhave been used as remedies for conjunctivitis, sorenessand irritation.Face MasksNo range of skin care products would be complete

without the inclusion of a treatment product that can beapplied once a week, preferably while the user lan-guishes in a hot bath.There are a number of options for a face pack. Theseproducts may be developed as powders or concentrated

pastes, to which the consumer adds warm water in orderto blend a product that has exactly the right consistency.Indeed, the application of a warm product may offergreater comfort and benefit, since it opens the pores toallow greater product penetration.For Oily Skin: Face packs for oilyskin suggest a prod-uct that gently removes excess oils from facial tissue toleave a clean, revitalized and refreshed feeling. Thiscould be accomplished by using Fuller's Earth, natural

Since 1965, Protameen Chemicals, Inc. hasbeen supplying high quality products to meetthe cri tical needs of the personal care andhousehold industries. As in past decades,the 1990's will br ing an era of change placingfurther demands on innovation, qual ity andservice. Protameen promises to accept thesechallenges and continue their efforts to contrib-ute to the viabi li ty of their customers in thisdecade and beyond.

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P R O T A M E E N C H E M I C A L S.CARBOPOL934,940,941,1342Distributors for the BFGoodrich Company PARABEN PRESERVATIVESMethyl-Propyl Butyl-Ethyl. p-Hydroxybenzoates NF, Technicaland Pure Grades COSMETIC RAWMATERIALSSorbitan and Glyceryl Esters- Polyglyceryl EstersPolyoxyethylene Esters and Ethers Lanolin Derivatives Hydrolyzed Proteins

94/Cosmetics & Toiletries Vol. 107, May 1992


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clay and Dead Sea salts (or some of the excellent saltsfrom Utah) combined with some of the extracts and oilsmentioned previously (Figures 4 and 5). The inclusion ofa small amount of menthol, magnesium sulphate or zincsulphate would have beneficial effects for skin withproblems caused by excessive oiliness.For Normal Skin: Face packs for normal skin shouldmaintain and possibly boost the moisture content of the

skin. The alginates obtained from seaweed can be com-bined with the formulator's favorite humectants to giveproducts that do not dry, but remain in contact with theskin to plump and firm the tissue. Once again, the prod-uct can include the oils and extracts mentioned pre-viously (Figure 8) for this skin type.For Dry Skin: Face packs containing oat bran or flour(Avena sativa), barley, wheat, or any of the grain prod-ucts will provide a gentle base with which to replenishdry skin. The addition of rice bran-and its oil-contain-ing y-oryzanol-can only give benefit. The inclusion ofroyal jelly, evening primrose oil or rosehip oil would add

graphic and marketing appeal.ConclusionAn attempt has been made to reduce the packaging re-quirements for a range of skin care products. There isnot a great deal of scope, since the product sizes are al-ready quite small. For this reason, we focused on herbaloils and extracts, in order to provide a gentle but consis-tent benefit. In a future article, attention shall be fo-

AM ER ICA N A ROMATICS .A SCENTS IT IVE COM PANYTHAT CREATED THE MOSTSCENTSAT IONAL SCENTSIN A NO NONSCENTSICALM ANNER . ALL IT TOOKW AS FORTY YEARS O FRESEARCH AND SOM ECOMMON SENSE . (ANDSOM E NOT SO COMMONSCENTS). AMER ICANAROM AT ICS , A COM PANYTHAT M AKES SCENTS.

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1295 Northern Boulevard' Manhasset, New York 11030TEL: (516) 365-8844' FAX: (516) 365-8472 ~

96/Cosmetics &Toiletries

cused on toiletry products, where some real packagingbenefits can be realized.AcknowledgmentsThe illustrat ions are taken from Dr. Malcom Stuart's excel lent book

Herbs and Herbalism and also from Rudolph Fritz Weiss's absorbingbook Herbal Medicine.ReferencesAddress correspondence to Anthony Dweck, Peter Black Toiletries,Cradle Bridge Mortimer Street, Trowbridge, Wiltshire BA14 8BB, UK.It is impractical to give a detailed reference list for each extract rec-

ommended. However, here is a list of some of the more important ref-erence sources used.1. Hans Fluck, Medicinal Plants, W Foulsham & Co Ltd (1988) ISBN0-572-00996-8

2. Ceres, The Healing Power of Herbal Teas, Thorsons Publishers(1984) ISBN 0-72251578-8

3. M Wright, The Complete Book of Garden Plants, Rainbird (1984)ISBN 0-7181-2307-7

4. R Genders, Flowers and Herbs of Love, Longman and Todd(1978) ISBN 0-232-51409-7

5. RC Wren, Potter's New Cyclopaedia of Botanical Drugs andPreparations, CW Daniels (1985 8th impression) ISBN 0-85032-009-76. M Grieve, A Modern Herbal, Sawas Publishing (1984) ISBN un-known

7. D Hoffmann, The Herb Users Guide, Thorsons Publishing (1987)ISBN 0-7225-1288-0

8. J Lust, The Herb Book, Bantam Publishing (1986 16th impres-sion) ISBN 0-553-17273-5

9. CF Leyel, Herbal Delights, Faber and Faber (1987) ISBN 0-571-14850-6

10. CF Leyel, Elixirs of Life, Faber and Faber (1987) ISBN 0-571-14849-2

11. M Scheffer, Bach Flower Therapy, Thorsons Publishing (1986)ISBN 0-7225-1121-3

12. R Trattler, Better Health through Natural Healing, Thorsons Pub-lishers (1985) ISBN 0-7225-1382-8

13. S Price, Practical Aromatherapy, Thorsons Publishing (1987)ISBN 0-7225-1525-1

14. R Tisserand, The Art of Aromatherapy, CW Daniel & Co Ltd(1987) ISBN 0-85207-140-X

15. DD Buchman, Herbal Medicine: The Natural way to get well andstay well, Century Hutchinson (1987) ISBN 0-09-153691-X

16. J Valnet, The Practice of Aromatherapy, CW Daniel Co Ltd,(1986) ISBN 0-85207-140-X

17. A Huxley, Natural Beauty with Herbs, Darton, Longman & Todd(1977) ISBN 0-232-51388-0

18. R Lautier and A Passebecq, Aromatherapy, the use of plant es-sences in healing, Thorsons Publishers (1979) ISBN 0-7225-1145-0

19. M Tisserand, Aromatherapy for Women, Thorsons Publishing(1985) ISBN 0-7225-1119-1

20. M Mitton, Herbal Remedies-Skin Problems, W Foulsham(1984) ISBN 0-572-01254-3

21. M Mitton, Herbal Remedies-Stress and Tension, W Foulsham(1984) ISBN 0-572-01254-3

22. E Mindell , New and Revised Vitamin Bible, Warner Books (1985)ISBN unknown

23. L Mervyn, Thorsons Complete Guide to Vitamins and Minerals,Thorsons Publishing (1986) ISBN 0-7225-1273-2

24. H Winter-Griffith, The Vital Vitamin Fact File, Thorsons Publish-ing (1988) ISBN 0-7225-1693-2

25. FJ Wheeler, The Bach Remedies Repertory, CW Daniel Co Ltd(1988) ISBN unknown

26. BHMA, The Brit ish Herbal Pharmacopoeia (1983) ISBN 0-903032-07-4

27. S Bunney, The Illustrated Book of Herbs, Octopus (1984) ISBN0-7064-1489-628. M Stuart, The Encyclopaedia of Herbs and Herbalism, Orbis

Vol. 107, May 1992


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(1986) ISBN 0-85613-700-629. D Potterton, ed, Culpepper's Colour Herbal, W Foulsham (1983)

ISBN 0-572-01152-030. The British Pharmaceutical Codex, The Pharmaceutical Press

(1973) ISBN 0-85369-084-731. Efamol l iterature: Essential Fatty Acids-A review of Evening

Primrose Oil32. I Stein, Royal Jelly, Thorsons Publishing (1986 5th impression)

ISBN 0-7225-1225-233. Thorson's Editorial Board, The healing power of Pol len with prop-

otis and Royal Jelly, Thorsons Publishing (1989 new edition)ISBN 0-7225-1878-134. M Polunin, Minerals-their crucial role in your health, ThorsonsPublishing (1987) ISBN 0-7225-0935

35. P Holford, The Whole Health Guide to Elemental Health,Thorsons Publishing (1983) ISBN 0-7225

36. Superdrug: Vitamins for Health, Mandarin Offset (Hong Kong)(1988) ISBN 0-86178-497-6

37. WC Evans, Trease and Evans, Pharmacognosy, Balliere Tindall(13th edition) ISBN 0-7020-1357-9

38. R Marks, The Sun and your Skin, MacDonald & Co (1988) ISBN0-356-14740-1

39. DC Jarvis, Arthritis and Folk Medicine, Pan Books (1968 8thprinting) ISBN unknown

40. GJ Binding, About Pollen-health food and healing agent, Chau-cer Press (1980) ISBN 0-7225-0660-0

41. R Marks, Acne-Advice on clearing your skin, Dunitz (1984)ISBN 0-906348-53-6 (-52-8 in paperback)

42. J Marks, A guide to the vitamins-their role in health and dis-eases, Medical and Technical Publishing Co Ltd (1979) ISBN 0-85200122-3

43. J Marks, The vitamins-their role in Medical Practice, Medicaland Technical Publ ishing Co Ltd (1985) ISBN 0-85200-851-1

44. Roche, Vitamin Compendium, Basle, Switzerland: F HoffmannLaRoche, ISBN unknown

45. M Budd, The Little Honey Book, Judy Piatkus Ltd (1984) ISBN0-86188-4590

46. RF Weiss, Herbal Medicine, translated from the 6th German edi-tion of Lehrbuch der Phytotherapie by AR Meuss, The BathPress (1986) ISBN 0-906584-19-1

47. Christ ina Probert Jones, Marks and Spencer: Extracts from Na-ture, Tigerprint (1989) No ISBN

48. EG Thomssen, Modern Cosmetics, Drug and Cosmetic Industry(1947 3rd edition)

49. AY Leung, Encyclopedia of Common Natural Ingredients used infood, drugs and cosmetics, John Wiley (1980) ISBN 0-471-04954-9

50. RG Harry, Harry's Cosmeticology, Wilkinson and Moore, eds,Longmann (1987 7th edition)51. W Hale-White, Materia Medica, Pharmacy, Pharmacology andTherapeutics, JA Churchi ll (1944 26th edition)

52. RG Harry, The Principles and practice of modern cosmetics-v2,Cosmetic Materials, Leonard Hil l (1963 2nd edition)

53. M Rieger, Surfactants in Cosmetics, Martin Dekker Inc (1985)ISBN 0-8247-7262-8

54. The Merck Index 11th Edition, An encyclopaedia of chemicaldrugs and biologicals, Merck (1989) ISBN 91191 0-28-X

55. P Back, The Illustrated Herbal, Hamlyn Publishers through Octo-pus Books printed in Hong Kong by Mandarin (1987) ISBN 0-600-553-361

56. An Irish Herbal, M Scott, ed, The Aquarian Press (1986) ISBN 0-85030-532-2

57. F Bloomfield, Miracle Plants, Jojoba and Yucca, Century Publish-ing (1985) ISBN 0-7126-1008-1

58. M Evans, A guide to herbal remedies, CW Daniel (1990) ISBN0-85207-221

59. L Manniche, An ancient Egyptian Herbal, British Museum Publi-cations (1989) ISBN 0-7141-1704-8

60. P Schauenberg and F Paris, Guide to Medicinal Plants, Lutter-worth Press (1990 first paperback edition) (Paris 1974 first edi-tion) ISBN 0-7188-2820-8

61. FN Hepper, Pharaoh's Flowers, HMSO (1990) ISBN 0-11-250040-4

62. C Stockwell , Nature's Pharmacy, The Guernsey Press Co Ltd

Ful lRangeHuman Safety &Efficacy Tes fing

H 1 J l .A RR IS ON R ES EA RC HL AB ORA TOR IES , IN C .L yn ne B . H a rris on , P h.D .Pres iden t

Vol. 107, May 1992

Dermal PatchingPDI,CUM, RIPTPhototoxicityPhotoallergySun Protection Factor(SPF)lssayDental/Periodontal

Clinical ResearchOcular IrritationEfficacy/Claim Support:Hair,Skin, NailDansyl ChlorideCell Renewal1 62 4 Sp rin gfie ld A v en ue

Maplewood N J 07040201-761-1160 FAX 201-761-1422

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(1989 Arrow edition) ISBN 0-09-965760-063. Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, CTFA Inc (1988) Library of Con-

gress Catalogue card no. 88-07150664. J Wiseman, The SAS Survival Handbook, William Collins & Co

Ltd (1986) ISBN 0-00-272774-965. SY Mills, The A-Z of Modern Herbalism, A comprehensive guide

to Practical Herbal Therapy, Thorsons Publishing (1989 reti tled)ISBN 0-7225-1882-X

66. EFW Powell, The Natural Home Physician, A Book for EveryHousehold, Health Science Press (1981 reprinted 2nd edition)ISBN 0-85032-092-5

67. M Howard, Traditional Folk Remedies, A comprehensive Herbal,Century paperbacks (1987) ISBN 0-7126-1731-0

68. R Mabey, Le livre des Plantes utiles, translated from the Englishtitle, The New Age Herbalist by Robert Laffont (ISBN 0-02-063350-5 Gaia Books Ltd), ISBN 2-221-06406-2 (French edition)

69. R Phillips, Les plantes aromatiques et medicinales (originally ElmTree Books 1987), translation by Nadine de Winter, Bordas(1987) ISBN 2-04-012946-4

70. P Forey, Plantes medicinales, translated by Noelle Akoa,Librairie Grund, ISBN 2-7000-1916-4

71. JC Marchina, Sante et beaute de votre peau, (1983 EditionsDangles) ISBN 2-7033-0255-X, ISBN 0180-8818

72. F Perry, Macdonald Encyclopaedia of Plants and Flowers, Mac-donalds (1987 5th reprint) ISBN 0-356-10399-4

73. D. Conway, The Magic of Herbs, Readers Union, Jonathon CapeLtd (1975) ISBN unknown74. L Gordon, A Country Herbal, Webb and Bower Ltd (1980) ISBN

0-906671-09-475. M Hooper, Herbs and medicinal plants, Kingfisher Books (1989)

ISBN 0-86272-484-876. M Castro, The complete homeopathy Handbook-a guide to ev-

eryday health, Macmillan (1990) ISBN 0-333-55581-377. J de Bairacli Levy, The illustrated herbal handbook for everyone,

Faber and Faber (1991 4th edition) ISBN 0-571-16099-9

78. R Fitter, A Fitter and M Blamey, The Wild Flowers of Britain andNorthern Europe, Collins (reprinted 1989 4th edition) ISBN 0-00-219715-4

79. D Hoffmann, The New Holistic Herbal Element (1991 2nd im-pression) ISBN 1-85230-193-7

80. D Hoffmann, Thorsons Guide to Medicinal Herbalism-a com-prehensive and practical introduction, formerly The Herb usersguide (1991 reprint) ISBN 0-7225-2494-3 (see B7)

81. S Tang and M Palmer, Chinese Herbal Prescriptions-a practicaland authoritative self-help guide, Rider & Company, an imprint ofCentury Hutchinson Ltd (1986) ISBN 0-7126-9470-6

82. L Bremness, The complete book of herbs, Colour LibraryBooks (1988 original copyright Dorling Kindersley Ltd)(1991) ISBN 0-86283-893-2

83. WB Turrill, British Plant Life, Collins New Naturalist Series,Bloomsbury Books London, Collins (1948 first published, 1989reprint) ISBN 1-870630-83-1

84. C Pierpoint Johnson and JE Sowerby (illustrator), A Concise En-cyclopaedia of Wild Flowers, Gallery Books (1989) ISBN 0-8317-9441-0

85. J Rose, Jeanne Rose's Modern Herbal, Pedigree Books pub-lished by The Putnam Publishing Group (1987) ISBN 0-399-51394-9

86. G Simonetti, Simon and Schuster's Guide to Herbs and Spices, AFireside Book, Simon and Schuster Inc (1990) ISBN 0-671-73489-X87. DC Lang, The complete book of Brit ish Berries, Threshold Books(1987) ISBN 0-901366-34-X

88. AR Hutchens, Indian Herbalogy of North America, Shambhala(1973 First paperback edition) ISBN 0-87773-639-1

89. W Boericke and WA Dewey, The twelve tissue remedies ofSchussler, 2nd Indian edition, Roy Publishing House, Calcutta14, India, no ISBN issued II

90. Martindale, The Extra Pharmacopoeia, 29th edition, The Pharmaceutical Press (1989) ISBN 0-85369-210-6

Make syournosefee ldoo.

98/Cosmetics &Toiletries

An d y ou r p ro du ctssm ell g re at. W e ll k nownfor ou r p e rsona li zedserv ice , o ur team w illp ro vid e th e p er fe ct s ce ntfo r y ou .hemia Corporation631 Leffingwell Ave.,

St. Louis, MO631221-800-726-1976

Vol. 107. May 1992

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