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8/14/2019 Natural Dying F09
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natural
T H E C O M P L E T E G U I D E T O
dyeingfabric,yarn,andfiber
Techniques and recipes for dyeingfabrics, yarns, and fibers at home
EVA LAMBERT&TRACY KENDALL
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yar
n
fa
br
ic
also known as Turkey Red, Madder has
been in use for over 5000 years. It is the
rich brick red color that forms the
background of many Turkish kelims and
carpets. But it can also produce brightcarmine reds, purplish reds, orange reds,
and deep brown reds. A truly versatile and
reliable dyestuff.
Root or powderIt is the chopped root of a two- or
three-year-old plant that is most
commonly used; powdered madder
will tend to give brownish tones.
When using madder, the dyebath
should not be boiled as this
will release more yellow.
The mixture must be
heated very slowly, and
should not go beyond a
gentle simmer to get the
brightest red tones.
Place your chopped roots
into the dyebath.
Cover with water and
leave to soak for at least
24 hours to ensure the
madder releases the
maximum color into
the water.
Carefully add the woolen
yarn, pre-mordanted with
alum, into the dyebath.
Dyeing with Madder
Techniques
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Vat dyeing
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Water quali tyThe harder the water, the better the
color. So the story goes, two women
from the same Turkish village were
given the same madder roots to dye
yarn to make carpets. One produced
a slightly blueish red; the other a
brownish red. Confused, the women
went to their supplier who was equally
baffled, until he realized that the
women, although from the same
village, had drawn their water from
two different wells.
It also depends on where, and how, the
madder was grown. As with the water,
the more chalky the soil, the better. So
check with your supplier to find the
source of your madder roots.
If you have soft water, you can try
adding chalk to get the more reddish
colors. During the 19th century in
the Outer Hebrides, urine was added
at the end of the dyeing process to
redden the color.
Ingredients used hereThe sequence below shows 1tsp. (5ml)
of ammonia, per 312oz. (100g) of yarn
to take some of the yellow out of the
red. Commercial madder from local
craft suppliers is probably only two
years old. Generally, the older root the
brighter the red. Eight-year-old roots
will give more purplish reds, but if you
want that youll probably have to grow
your own!
Add more water to
immerse the yarn so it can
move more freely in the
dyebath. This helps to
ensure consistent coloring.
Bring the dyebath slowly to the boil. Make
sure not to heat the liquid higher than 140F
(60C) as this will result in a yellowing of the
color. Keep the dyebath at this temperature
for at least one hourlonger if possible. Let
it cool overnight to allow the yarn to fully
absorb the color.
Take the yarn out of the
dyebath and rinse well,
until the water runs clear.
v SEE ALSO:
MORDANTING, PAGE 16
MIXING DYE BATHS, PAGE 84
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FlowersCollect your flowers on a dry day. Generally,the whole plant can be usedgather as if
making a bouquet so that the leaves and stem
can be included in the dye bath. Freshly picked
plants give a more intense color than driedjust as fresh herbs have a stronger taste than
dried ones.
v SEE ALSO:
PREPARING YOUR DYESTUFFS, PAGE 36
Collecting dyestuffs
yar
nf
ab
ric
Alcea sp. /HollyhockCollection:The different colored blossoms
can be used in one dye bath, but should be
picked in the summer when in full bloom and
used only when fresh.
Color obtained:A reasonable lightfast
range of orange yellows on animal fibers, but
will dye paler on vegetable fibers.
Anthemis tinctoria / CamomileCollection:Only the flower heads should be
collected in the summer and used when fresh.
Color obtained:A pleasing yellow when
used with alum, a bright yellow with the
addition of tin, a subdued greeny yellow
with iron, and a slightly browny yellow
with copper.
Cytisus scoparius / BroomCollection:For fresh use, collect during the
summer. Collect flowers only, as the stems
contain tannin which will brown your color.
For later use, dry whole sprigs, then strip off
the flowers and leaves and store in a jar out
of strong sunlight.
Color obtained:An excellent bright yellow
when used with alum and a lovely green
when overdyed with indigo.
Calluna vulgaris / HeatherCollection:For fresh use, collect the
flowering tips in late summer or early fall,
avoiding too much stem. For later use, cutdeeper, making small bundles to hang and dry.
Once dried, strip off the flowers and leaves
and store in a jar, out of strong sun light.
Color obtained:A good olive yellow when
used fresh with alum. More of a mustard
yellow when used dried.
Caltha palustris / MarigoldCollection:Collect as if making a bouquet,
including the stems. Can be dried by hanging
in bunches outside on a clear windless day, or
indoors in a warm room.
Color obtained:A bright brassy yellow,
which is lightfast on animal fibers. A pale
yellow when dyed on linen or cotton. Not
suitable for vegetable fibers.
Daucus carota /Queen Anns lace, Wild carrot
Collection:Collect in late spring or summer
as if for a bouquet, when in bloom. Should
only be used fresh.
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2
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19
19
Color obtained:A range of fast yellows
depending on quantity usedthe more you
use, the brighter the color. On vegetable
fibers the shades are lighter.
Filipendula ulmaria /Meadowsweet, Queen of the meadow
Collection: As for a bouquet in late spring or
early summerbefore the frothy flowers
begin to turn brown. Can be dried for later
use but the colors obtained will be paler.
Color obtained:A greenish yellow with
alum, which when overdyed with indigo can
give a slightly aqua green.
Galium boreale /Ladies bedstraw
Collection:Collect the whole plant as if
making a bouquet, in the summer. Can be
dried, but the color is best when used fresh.
Color obtained: With alum-mordanted yarn,
a golden yellow; with the addition of a pinch
of tin, a bright gold; mordanted with copper,
a light olive; and with iron, a medium
olive green.
Solidago sp. / Golden rodCollection:The whole plant is collected in
the summer, as if for a bouquet. Since the
plant can grow to 6ft (2m) tall, it must be cut
into reasonably-sized pieces to use fresh. The
best dyes are obtained by using only the
blossoms and as little of the stem as
possible. For later use, dry in bouquet bundles
and then separate the blossoms.
Color obtained: A yellow gold with alum,
but a much brighter gold when tin is added tothe dye bath. Greenish shades with copper or
iron. Lightfastness is good.
Tanacetum vulgare /Tansy, Bachelor buttons
Collection:Collect in the late summer,
before the yellow buttons turn brown. Cut the
stems just below the flowering heads but
with enough stem so they can be hung to dry
for later use if desired.
Color obtained: A bright greeny yellow with
alum, but a darker moss green with iron.
Taraxacum officinale &erythrospermum / DandelionCollection: For the best color, only the
flower heads should be collected, and collect
in as late in the season as possible. The
whole plantleaves and blossomscan be
used but the color will be different.
Color obtained: With only the flower heads,
a clear yellow; with both leaves and flower
heads, a more beige color. Softly spun cotton
will take the dye, but other vegetable fiberswill not.
Ulex sp. / GorseCollection:This is a very prickly shrub, so
take care. Collect the flowers only during
summer. They can be dried for later use.
Color obtained:A good clear yellow when
used with alum.
Storing Flowers
If you wish to use your collected plants at a
later date, hang them in small bunches to dry in
the sun (protected from moisture and high
winds) or in a conservatory. Store in jars or
boxes, away from direct sunlight.
Estimating Amounts
If you used 100% of dyestuff in your original
recipe then once dried, the amount of dyestuff
should, as a general rule, be decreased by 50%
as your fresh plants contain water. The colors
may not be as bright as when you use the
flowers fresh.
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General method1
Place the safflower petals in a saucepan, cover with hotwater, and bring to the boil.
2 Simmer for 30 minutes. Cool in the saucepan.
3 Strain the dye water through panty hose. Place the panty
hose with the safflower petals inside in a dye vat. Add
enough warm water to allow free movement of the fabric
below the water.
4 Wet the fabric and add it to the dye vat. Slowly bring to
the boil over 20 to 30 minutes. Simmer for 60 to 90 minutes.5 Stir the fabric frequently so all the surfaces pick up the
dye color evenly, but make sure that the fabric remains
underneath the water surface at all times.
6 During the dyeing you can check the color of the fabric by
rinsing under running cold tap water and then squeezing
tightly dry.
7 When you have the color you require, rinse well in warm
water and then wash in warm water using a pH-neutral soap.
Rinse well again in warm water and air dry.
Recipes
Safflower(Carthamus tinctorius)
Safflower dye will turn silk yellow
and cotton red. The dye was
originally used to dye the cotton
tape used for legal documents, hence
the expression red tape.
Palest cream
COTTON: ALUMMORDANTIngredients Safflower petals:
100200% to dry
weight of fabric
Silk fabric swatch
Alum mordant: At 8%
MethodFollow steps 17 of the general method
Soft pink
SILK: NO MORDANT
Ingredients Safflower petals:
100200% to dry
weight of fabric
Silk fabric swatch
MethodFollow steps 17 of the general method.
VARIATION: A different weight of cotton will give a
very different tone when dyed in this dye bath. See
background swatch number .
VARIATION: For a paler color, like the one in
background swatch number , remove the fabric
after 1520 minutes of simmering.
fab
ric
3
1
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Muted yellow
COTTON: NO
MORDANTIngredients Dried safflower:
50100% to dry
weight of fabric
Cotton fabric swatch
Washing soda
Vinegar
Method1Follow steps 17 of the general method.
2Make a new dye bath with the used
safflower petals in old tights. Add enough cold
water to allow free movement of the fabric
below the water. Add enough washing soda(alkali) to change the pH level of the dye vat
to 11. Leave to settle for 60 minutes.
3Neutralize the dye vat with a vinegar solution
(acid) to change the pH level to 6. Add the
cotton fabric.
4Leave the fabric to dye cold in this bath for
2 to 4 hours, or overnight if possible.
5 Stir the fabric frequently so all the surfacespick up the dye color evenly, but make sure that
the fabric remains underneath the water
surface at all times.
6 During the dyeing you can check the color of
the fabric by rinsing under running cold tap
water and then squeezing tightly dry.
7 When you have the color you require, rinse
well in warm water and then wash in warm
water using a pH-neutral soap. Rinse well again
in warm water and air dry.
Hint of pink
SILK: NO MORDANT
Ingredients Safflower petals:
100200% to dry
weight of fabric
Cotton fabric swatch
Washing soda
Vinegar
Method1Follow steps 17 of the general method.
2Make a new dye bath with the used
safflower petals in old panty hose. Add enough
cold water to allow free movement of the fabric
below the water. Add enough washing soda
(alkali) to change the pH level of the dye vat to11. Leave to settle for 60 minutes.
3Neutralize the dye vat with a vinegar solution
(acid) to change the pH level to 6. Add the
cotton fabric.
4Leave the fabric to dye cold in this bath for
2 to 4 hours, or overnight if possible.
5 Stir the fabric frequently so all the surfaces
pick up the dye color evenly, but make sure thatthe fabric remains underneath the water
surface at all times.
6 During the dyeing you can check the color of
the fabric by rinsing under running cold tap
water and then squeezing tightly dry.
7 When you have the color you require, rinse
well in warm water and then wash in warm
water using a pH-neutral soap. Rinse well again
in warm water and air dry.
VARIATION:For a deeper pink, leave the fabric in the
dye bath for a day or two. See background swatch
number .
VARIATION: Background swatch number was left
in this dye bath overnightnotice how it gives a
more intense color.
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naturalT H E C O M P L E T E G U I D E T O
dyeingfabric,yarn,andfiberJam-packed with naturaland foolproofdyeing techniques, The Complete Guide toNatural Dyeing Fabric, Yarn, and Fiber
is the
perfect dyeing source for an abundance of fiberartists wanting to dye the natural way.
Inside youll find:
Techniques for collecting and preparingdyestuffs.
Step-by-step sequences to explain differentways of applying natural colors to yarns and
textiles from batik dyeing to dip-dyeing.An extensive directory of recipes for dyeing with
madder, safflower, indigo, cochineal, alkanet,and many more, to create stunning natural colors.
Readers will also learn how different naturaldyes will affect the colors obtained on variousmediums, and how to work with mordants.
The Complete Guide to Natural Dyeing Fabric,Yarn, and Fiberis a comprehensive guide withcomplete instructions and plenty of dyeinginspiration to get creativethe natural way. Usingnatural dyes to create fabric, yarn, or fiber issimple, eco-friendly, and surprisingly affordable!
EVA LAMBERT was born in Germany, brought up in the UnitedStates, and now is a UK citizen living in Scotland. She opened theShilasdair shop on the Isle of Skye in 1998 and sells exclusivelynatural-dyed yarns. Eva has given talks, hosted workshops, andhas been the subject of various exhibitions in the UK. She has donehistorical dyeing for the Victoria and Albert Millennium Exhibition.
TRACY KENDALL has worked for 25 years at Central SaintMartinsLondons most prestigious art schoolteaching students
from Foundation to Post Graduate level how to design and printonto textiles. She has her own internationally successful designstudio producing hand silk-screened wallpapers which are exhibitedand sold throughout the world. She has previously published atextile dye recipe handbook, The Fabric and Yarn Dyers Handbook(Collins and Brown, 2003).
Paperback, 812" x 10", 144 pages400 photographsISBN 978-1-59668-181-1$24.95
Available February 2010