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Naples, City of a thousand faces

In the shadow the Vesuvius tourism’s roots rundeep: on the imprints of great greek columns refinedaristocrats and roman emperors built theirsumptuous villas and oasis all along the shorelineof the Gulf.It is not a coincidence that at the begining of thisthird millennium the peculiar magic of thiscivilisation continues to generate new sources ofamazement: the recovery of age old monuments andtraditions – folklore, gastronomy, genuinecultivation – that were thought irreparably lost,events and shows worthy of the great internationalcircuit, new fodder for artistic and scientificresearch.The artistic treasure of Naples to visit are, in fact, to many to count: the historical centre, a patrimonyunder the tutelage of UNESCO, the palaces,churches, catacombs and undergroundpassageways, the Archaeological Museum, theplaces of medieval and renaissance power amassedaround the Castel Nuovo and Royal Palace, theunforgettable waterfront from Castel dell’Ovo toPosillipo.The hilly area of Vomero offers masterfully restoredbuildings like the Capodimonte Royal Palace andthe Certosa (monastery) of San Martino, museumcollections amongst the most important in the world.

A trip through the twentieth century city takes you,among the notable emerging urban and architecturalsights, to the rationalist Mostra d’Oltremare, with itspark, sports complex and exhibition space, to Cittàdella Scienza (Science City) near by.Science is also witness to the recovery of industrialarchaeological complexes and the originality of ascientific tradition that renews itself.Unusual and surprising is the exploration of the newhomes of contemporary art: monumental structureslike the PAN, Palazzo delle Arti Napoli, the MADRE,Museo d’Arte Contemporanea Donnaregina(Donnaregina Contemporary Arts Museum), and theunique artistry of the metro stations that evidencethe original horizons of farseeing cultural politics.

Naples, in the final sum, remains, deep in its roots,even with all the difficulties and contradictionsinherent to all big metropolitan cities, anextraordinary place to live, admire, and enjoy withall the senses: for the depth of the art andcivilisation that has idelibly marked its history; forthe mild climate that accompanies day and night theshows, musical and theatrical events, exhibitions,fairs and religious gatherings; for the gourmandpossibilites to search out the age old culinarytradition, the seafood and the unique typicalproducts (buffalo mozzarella, pizza, Docg wine,varied and refined pastries) in all their localtranslations, or for finding fine hidden little shopswhere craftsmen still ply their wares.

The mask of Pulcinella

The typical neapolitan maskseems to have beeninvented in 1656 by AndreaCalcese, known as Ciuccio,

a tailor from Acerra, a townin the Province of Naples.The character alreadyexisted in the Atella regionand the name comes fromthe Italian word for chick,pulcino. Pulcinella is theepitome of “poor”, of aperson treated badly, and isknown for always beinghungry, therefore having a

voracious appetite. Heseems innocent, inexpert, abit “thick”, but is in reality aman with a millionresources: with great charmhe manages to squeeze outof all kinds of trouble. The philosopher BenedettoCroce defines him as “theportrait, the character or theideal of the neapolitan”.

famous travellers

There is no one that has not dreamt of seeing Naples.Paul Edme de Musset, 1885

Campania > ArtecardAll inclusive 3 or 7 day ticketfor immediate (no queing)entrance to the mainmuseums and archaeologicalsites of the Region, and travelono the UnicoCampaniapublic transport system.

City SightseeingTrips of 50 minutes to 2 hoursthat permit you to hop on or off at will for the durationof the ticket or of the trip.tel. 081 5517279www.city-sightseeing.it

Ente Provinciale per il Turismo di Napolipiazza dei Martiri 58tel. 081 4107211www.eptnapoli.info

Azienda Autonoma di Cura Soggiorno e Turismo di NapoliPalazzo Realetel. 081 2525711www.inaples.it

Museo ArcheologicoNazionalepiazza Museo 19tel. 848 800288

Museo di Palazzo Reale piazza Plebiscitotel. 848 800288

Museo Nazionale di Capodimontevia Miano 1tel. 848 800288

Museo Nazionale di San Martinolargo San Martino 8tel. 848 800288

MADREvia Settembrini 79tel. 081 5624561

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View of the Gulf of Naples

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art and archaeology Sant’Elmo CastleCastel NuovoHistorical centre andUnderground NaplesMonastery and Museum of San MartinoNational ArchaeologicalMuseumCapodimonte MuseumMADREDuca di Martina Museum

Royal PalacePompeii and HerculaneumRoyal Palace of PorticiVesuvian Villas of the Migliod’Oro (Golden mile)

nature and parksCloister of Santa ChiaraCloister of San GregorioArmenoGardens of the Royal PalaceBotanical gardensCapodimonte ParkVirgilian ParkVilla ComunaleVilla FloridianaVesuvius National Park

specialitiesBabàCoffeeBuffalo Mozzarella DopMargherita Pizza DopNeapolitan SalamiSfogliatella shortcrust and crinkly pastrySpaghetti with clamsApricots and cherry tomatoesfrom the VesuviusWines of Vesuvius

for young peopleArenile di Bagnoli (summer)Borgo MarinariPiazza Bellini and historicalcentrePiazza dei Martiri and surrounding areaPiazza Vanvitelli and surrounding area

spas and fitnessBeauty centres of the majorhotels

shoppingNativity scenes and shepherdsof San Gregorio ArmenoCoral and CameowarePorcelain of CapodimonteAntignano Market (Vomero)

Food Market of Pignasecca(Montesanto)Fish Market of Porta Nolana(via Marina)Lavic rock, copper, wroughtiron and wicker objects

eventsJanuary-December_Naples Antiques FairVilla comunale(Third weekend of eachmonth)

Spring_Galassia Gutenberg(book fair)

May_May is for Monuments_Italia VineTraditional Italian native vines_Park to ParkRunning in Naples and NewYork

June_Napoli Film Festival_Marechiaro Jazz Festival_International Show JumpingCompetitionPiazza del Plebiscito

June-July_Neapolis Rock Festival_Napoli Jazz Festival_ProvinciamoTravelling performance review

July_AgriCulture. Skills andTastes of Campania_Naples Blues Festival_Pomigliano Jazz FestivalPomigliano d'Arco_Afrakà Rock FestivalAfragola

July-August_Ulysses Glance andMigrating MusicConcerts, tango, films

July-September_Midnight in the ParksEvents in Naples parks

September_Piedigrotta - The Festival ofNaples_Pizzafest

October_Chamber Music Festival_ArtecinemaFestival of films oncontemporary artTeatro Politeama

October-May_Associazione Scarlatti Concert seasonNaples

December_Market-Exhibition of NativityScenes San Gregorio Armeno_Myriad-Coloured NaplesWinter notes in Naples

December 31st

_Live Concert and FireworksPiazza Plebiscito

outings with childrenAquarium of the Anton DohrnZoological StationCastel dell’OvoCittà della Scienza (Science Centre)Archaeological Museum(educational tours for children)

Edenlandia amusement parkVesuvius National Park

not to be missedPiazza del PlebiscitoCastel NuovoThe historical centreCastel dell’OvoNational Archaeological MuseumCapodimonte MuseumMuseum of San MartinoMADRE

naples in 1 dayRoyal palace and Piazza del PlebiscitoCastel NuovoNational Archaeological Museum“Spaccanapoli” and the historical centreCastel dell’Ovo and the waterfront

naples in 3 daysRoyal Palace and Piazza del PlebiscitoCastel NuovoMonastery and Museum of San MartinoNational Archaeological Museum“Spaccanapoli” and thehistorical centre

Capodimonte MuseumCastel dell’Ovo and BorgoMarinariWaterfront and MergellinaPosillipoMADRE Museo d’ArteContemporanea Donna Regina

Cloister of the San GregorioArmeno Church

8 9The origins of the city are lost in time andcharming legends. The most tenable hypothese putsthe beginnings of the city in the 9th century BC,when the greeks colonised the Gulf on their way upto the high Thyrrenean mineral deposits.In 326 it was declared a Roman colony.After the fall of the Roman Empire, Naples becamethe capital of an important Duchy, that namaged tostave off the invading Longobards. In 1137 theDuchy fell into the hands of the Normans, whofavoured cultural integration.The Port of Naples became the most important in theworld. After the death of Frederick II of Svevia, CarloD’Angiò made his triumphal entrance to Naples in1266. Power passed into the hands of Alfonsod’Aragona in 1442, after a long war that brought thecity to its knees. In a short time, however, thesituation changed: important civil engineering (theconstruction of sewage conducts and streets) andrestoration works were undertaken (at Castel Nuovothe Triumph Arch was built). Other works (like theopening of via Toledo, the construction of theSpanish Quarters – formerly barracks – and therestoration of the Chiaia Riviera) were completedduring the following two centuries during theSpanish rule (1503-1707), up to the arrival of theBourbons (1734), who reigned the Kingdom ofNaples until 1860 when Italy was finally united.

Our journey of discovery of the city begins in thehistoric core which preserves ancient greek-romanimprints, to continue with the places of power of themedieval-renaissance period concentrated aroundthe Castel Nuovo and Royal Palace. We will thenfollow along the waterfront from the Castel dell’Ovo to Posillipo, to end up on the green hills of Capodimonte and Vomero.


The “womb” of Naples is the greco-roman historicalcentre: a chessboard divided by three main roads,the decumans, intersected at right angles by roadscalled “cardinals”.It is here that the pulse of the City is best felt: thealleys, the artisan workshops, the innumerableartistic marvels that surprise you in the leastexpected places, the voices of the “napolitani”.It is also the cultural centre of the City, with theUniversity on via Mezzocannone, the literary cafès of Bellini Square, the bookshops of Port’Alba, and the Italian Institute for Historical Studies on via Benedetto Croce.

The Piazza of the Gesù Nuovo is the entrance gateto the old centre.The steeple of the Immacolata (1747) and theChurch of the Gesù Nuovo, which on its facadepreserves the 15th century ashlar-work of theSanseverino Palace (before it became a church itwas the property of the Sanseverino family whichused it as its palace), introduce baroquereligiousness to the city. The inside of the church isan exultation of marble, stucco and frescoes, withworks by Francesco Solimena, Luca Giordano andMassimo Stanzione.

Not far away is the austere church of Santa Chiara,built in 1310 by Roberto d’Angiò in a Provencalgothic style and transformed with baroquedecorations in the mid 1700’s. After being damagedby the bombings of 1943, it was restored back to itsoriginal, more sober, form.

The historical centre:from Spaccanapolito Piazza Mercato

Sfogliatellas and other delicacies

The Sfogliatella, typicalneapolitan pastry,wasinvented in the 18th centuryby Pintauro. Filled with

sweet aromatic ricottacheese with candied fruitbits, it is called frolla whenit is roled in short pastry,crinkly when it is wrappedin very fine layers and fried.At Pintauro, on via Toledo,you can enjoy this classicsfogliatella pastry.The famous Scaturchiopastry shop, in piazza San

Domenico, prepares a sweetand a salty version. Otherdelicacies are the famousbabà; puffy, soft andimpregnated with rum; andthe “pastiera”, once anEaster delicacy, nowavailable all year round,made with short pastry,ricotta, cooked grain andcandied fruit bits.

Do not miss out on thestruffoli at Christmas time,fried balls of soft doughsoaked in honey andcovered in coloured sugarsprinkles and candied fruit.A must: neapolitan coffee –hot, sweet and very verystrong.

Spaccanapoli10 11


Here you will find the sepulchral monuments of theroyal Anjou family (14th century), work of sculptorsof the Tuscan school. A stroll in the cloister of thePoor Clares is not to be missed. It was designed byDomenico Antonio Vaccaro. Here Naples suddenlybecomes silent and perfumed by narcissus andwistaria; yellow, green and blue are the dominatingcolours of the tiles that dress the magnificentoctagonal columns and the seats on which theneapolitan “riggiolari” Donato and Giuseppe Massapainted pastoral and mythological scenes.

In via Benedetto Croce the 14th centruyFilomarino della Rocca Palace can be found,home to the philosopher Benedetto Croce, who alsofounded the Italian Institute for Historical Studies,still a busy didactic centre with a rich library. PiazzaSan Domenico is one of the Aragons’most notableurban legacies, a peaceful co-existance of contrastingarchitectural styles: the church (13th century) wasthe official Aragonese dynastic church, of which thefunereal arches remain: the steeple of San Domenico(17th century) and the lovely façades of theCorigliano Palace (18th century), today seat of theUniversity Institute Orientale, and the SanseveroPalace.

In piazzetta Nilo stands the hellenistic statue of Nilo, rediscovered in the middle ages, to whichthe Neapolitans have given the affectionate name of “Body of Naples”. Here the little church ofSant’Angelo a Nilo stands. Constructed in 1385and altered in the 18th century, it contains thebeautiful Renaissance tomb of Cardinal RinaldoBrancaccio, made in Pisa from 1426 to 1428 byDonatello, Michelozzo and Pagno di Lapo, and sentto Naples by sea, alongside other works from the 15th

and 16th century. Strolling along via San Biagio deiLibrai (also known as Spaccanapoli) you canbrowse in the little shops full of antiques, religiousobjects and jewelry. At number 114 we come acrossa masterpiece from the late Mannerism period of the17th century – the Chapel of the Monte di Pietà,part of the monumental Carafa Palace and decoratedwith frescoes by Belisario Corenzio with the help ofLuigi Rodriguez and Batistello Caracciolo.

Almost hidden in a tiny alley that intersects with vicoSan Domenico we find the small but extraordinarySansevero Chapel. A visit to this spectacularbaroque complex is a must.

A triumph of a single artwork is to be found in thestatue of the Veiled Christ, sculpted by GiuseppeSanmartino: the effect, the virtuosity of the handlingof the marble and the play of light make it a truemasterpiece. It will be difficult to contain yourcuriosity for the many inventions and anatomicalmachines exhibited, which gave the PrinceSanseverino the fame (not deserved) of being awitch and a sorcerer.

Via San Gregorio Armeno, with its lively bustlingscene, is characterised by the belltower of thechurch with the same name. In the two monthsbefore Christmas San Gregorio Armeno become themost vivacious area of the centre, and it fills up withstands that sell little figurines and decorations fornativity scenes. Apart from the traditional babyJesus, Mother Mary and father Joseph figures thecraftsmen compete with one another to makefigurines depicting current political and gossipcolumn personalities.In the complex of the convent of San GregorioArmeno, annexed to the church, and characterisedby the sumptious Baroque nave and by theextraordinary caisson ceiling, a visit to the cloisterwith its gardens, orchards and citrus groves, is notto be missed.

At the end of this street we find ourselves in theheart of the greco-roman city, corresponding to thepart of town that was the agora and forum, andwhere the layers can still be seen.The centre of all of this was piazza San Gaetano,where the San Paolo Maggiore Church builtbetween the 8th and 9th century, and the SanLorenzo Maggiore Church, which in the cloisterhosts greco-roman excavations, are to be found. It ishere that the great writer Giovanni Boccaccio met hisdarling Fiammetta on Holy Saturday in 1336.

famous travellers

You can, from Piazza Dante, via Port’Alba, reach via dei Tribunali, and from Toledoby the Maddaloni Palace reach San Biagio dei Librai, and with a guidebook inhand go looking for the building where a plaque that was cemented to the wallby its proprietor assures “In this building the most illustrious citizen of Naples was born, Saint Gennaro” and where the porter, asked to confirm this clamorousnews, with a slight rising of his shoulders answers “that’s what they say”.Giovanni Ansaldo, 1961

The Doll Hospital

Born in the 1800’s theyhave been restoring dollshere for three generations.The family tradition lives on

in the footsteps of thefounder Luigi Grassi, withhis grandson, also a Luigi,and his daughter Tizianacontinuing the work. Youcan visit the historical shop,in via San Biagio dei Librai81, by appointment calling081 5634744.

Cloister of Santa Chiara

The veiled Christ in the San Severo Chapel

Main Door of the churchof the Gesù Nuovo

Piazza San Domenico Maggiore

The artisan shops of San Gregorio Armeno

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A trip in the underground of Naples is a tremendouslyexciting experience that reveals the secrets, history andlegends of the city. No one knows the exact dimensions ofthe “dark” Naples, but spelunkers have, in the last fewyears, counted up to 700 cavities for a total area of 1million metric cubes. To begin this time travel one startsfrom piazza San Gaetano, in the heart of the historicalcentre, for a two hour trip through subterranean passagesand cisterns. The Greek-roman theatre is interesting, with apicturesque low entrance in Cinquesanti alley. From thecloister of the San Lorenzo Maggiore church it is just afew paces to step backwards 2,600 years among the stonesof the greek walls. In the Spanish Quarters the descent isto 40 mts below the ground along stairs to arrive at theancient cisterns and aqueducts used more recently asshelters from the bombing during the war.

In via Tribunali, to the left, the little Santa Mariadel Purgatorio ad Arco church is characterised bya bizzare baroque decoration: the skull and bones infront of the Church symbolise the devotion of theNeapolitans to the “pained souls”, known as“pezzentelle”, a slang for “without relatives”. Just alittle ways on is the church and former convent ofSan Pietro a Majella, where since 1826 one of themost important conservatories of music has itshome. There you can see the paintings of MattiaPreti, masterpieces of Italian painting in the 17th

century.The nearby piazza Bellini is very lively, especiallyin the evenings, and full of cafès. In the oppositedirection, towards the end of via Tribunali, thechurch of the Girolamini rises and houses thegallery of the same name with paintings from the16th-18th centuries.

Via Tribunali intersects with via Duomo, which in turn takesits name from the Cathedral, a gothic structure completedby Robert of Anjou in 1313. The façade has been oftenrenovated, as the original one collapsed in the 1349earthquake. Inside, the structure is based on the latin crosswith three naves and is richly decorated. You can clearlysee the 18th century baroque interventions on the centralnave. Along the left nave is the entranceway to the

paleochristian basilica of Santa Restituita. Founded in the4th century by the Emperor Constantine, today it reveals aBaroque interior created after the 1688 earthquake.The ample fragments of mosaic pavement seem to belongto yet another paleochristian basilica, Stefania(6th century). Under Santa Restituita you can see greek-roman archaeological remains.On the left of the apse is the entrance to the Baptistry of San Giovanni in fonte, built between the 4th and 5th

century, and therefore the oldest bulding of its kind in thewestern Christian world. On the square structure rests amosaic covered dome. Other than the medieval chapels rich with frescoes anddécor, the 17th century Chapel of the Treasure of SanGennaro is a must. For the rich embellishments the mostfamous of contemporary painters were summoned(Fanzago, Domenichino, Ribera, Lanfranco). Themagnificent chapel is highlighted by the preciousdecorations and large silver reliquery busts. It is here thatfor the two weeks of celebration of the miracle (the liquifaction of San Gennaro’s blood) the reliquery of San Gennaro’s blood is on exhibit.

At number 288 of via Duomo is the Filangieri CivicMuseum, donated to the City in 1882 by GaetanoFilangieri, Prince of Satriano. The collection iscomposed of a vast series of art objects – from armsto porcelain, books and furniture.

The miracle of San Gennaro

Hope, expectations, tensionand invocations are utteredby the faithful that take partin the liquefaction of Saint

Gennaro’s blood. For 600years, on the first Sunday ofMay (commemoration of thefirst translation of theSaint’s corpse) and onSeptember 19 (day of hismartyrdom) a special massis held following aprocession that crosses thenarrow lanes of thehistorical centre.

Façade of the Duomo

Detail of a decoration in the church of Santa Mariadel Purgatorio ad Arco

famous travellers

The Cathedral, which has a beautiful door and columnsof African and Egyptian granite that once graced the Temple of Apollo, contains the celebrated blood of San Gennaro, or Janarius. It is preserved in two littleampullas in a silver reliquary and three times a year itmiraculously liquefies to the great joy of the people.Charles Dickens, 1845

Miracle of San Gennaro

San LorenzoMaggiore Church

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Going up past the Duomo, to the right on a crossstreet, is the Donnaregina Palace. This is whereMADRE Museo d’Arte Donna Regina(Contemporary Art Museum) has its seat. Thebuilding was projected by the celebrated Portoguesearchitect Alvaro Siza and is a grand museum with aninternational feel. The permanent collection is madeup of works by artists that have worked in Naples inthe past: it hosts works that were once shown inpiazza del Plebiscito and the ArchaeologicalMuseum, as well as works conceived, projected,painted and constructed expressly for this museum:important works of such artists as Long, Bianchi,Clemente, Horn, Kapoor, Kounellis, Paolini, SolLewitt, Serra, and others. Cross via Duomo and onthe right on via dei Tribunali is the Pio Monte dellaMisericordia complex, founded in 1601; it is on ofthe city’s oldest charitable organisation. Theoctagonal church has, on its main altar, Caravaggio’smasterpiece depicting the Acts of compassion. TheGallery is also interesting, put together over timewith private donations. One of the major benefactorsof this gallery was the painter Francesco de Murawho, in 1782, left 192 of his paintings (of which 42 remain today).

At the end of via dei Tribunali we find ourselves infront of Capuano Castle, the oldest of the fourcastles Naples boasts. Built in the Norman era, itbecame the Palace of Justice and is still today the

famous travellers

O, scarce in trivial tenor all, Much less to mock man’smortal sigh, The syllables proverbial fall, “Naples, seeNaples, and - then die!”Herman Melville, 1857

MADRE - DonnareginaContemporary Art Museum

Castel Capuano

The Acts of Compassionby Caravaggio

seat of the Civil Court. One of the gates of Naples isalso here, Porta Capuana; erected in 1484 it wasthe most important eastern entrance to the city.Here, and near the Porta Nolana by the train stationof Garibaldi Square, there are two of the mostpicturesque of the city’s markets, specialising in fish,fruit and vegetables.Not far away is the Church of San Giovanni a Carbonara, constructed between 1343 and 1418.Here the elegant Caracciolo del Sole (1427) andCaracciolo di Vico (1516) chapels are to be found,as well as the grandiose tomb of Ladislas of Durazzo (1428), king of Naples.The last stop is piazza Mercato, one of the crucialcorners of Neapolitan history: here Konradin vonHohenstaufen was beheaded in 1268, and in 1647Masaniello gathered his people during the anti-spanish revolt led by him.The square is dominated by one of the most popularand venerated churches of all of Naples, the Basilicaof Santa Maria del Carmine, dedicated to SantaMaria la Bruna. In her honour, in July, a fireworkscompetition is held that concludes with the burningof the highest belltower of the City (75 mts). On viaNuova Marina, lastly, the Port opens up before us. Itwas begun by Charles II with the foundation of theAngioino Pier, and enlarged in the course of thecenturies up until the early 1900’s, when it reachedits present day dimensions.

Pizza fit for a queen

A good crust distinguishesa Neapolitan pizza fromthose made in the rest ofthe world. 3-4 centimeters

wide and cooked to theright point it encircles adisc of soft and elasticconsistency. To prepare themost classic of pizzas, theMargherita (invented in1889 by the pizzamakerRaffaele Esposito of theBrandi pizzeria when QueenMargaret of Savoia visitedNaples), the pizzamaker

must work with his palmsand thumbs, use SanMarzano tomatoes,mozzarella, olive oil, gratedParmigiano Reggianocheese and a few leaves of fresh basil.

Belltower and interiorof the basilica of SantaMaria del Carmine

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The area between Castel Nuovo and the NationalArchaeological Museum, going by via Toledo, is thecentre of Naples. Considered by the Neapolitans tobe the most representative, it contains some of themost symbolic monuments of the City: the MaschioAngioino, the Royal Palace, piazza del Plebiscito, the San Carlo Theatre, the Umberto I Gallery, the National Archaeological Museum.

Castel Nuovo (named so as to distinguish it fromthe older royal residences - Castel dell’Ovo andCastel Capuano) is also known as Maschio Angioino.

The impressive fortress, on which work was begun in 1279by Charles I of Anjou but subsequently modified by theAragonese, has a trapezoid base and is surrounded by amoat where the foundations of the five cylindrical towersstand.The Triumph Arch marks the entrance to the castle and is its main ornament. It was erected to commemorate the triumphal entrance to the city by Alfonso of Aragon in 1443.The magnificent sculpted reliefs represent the best finestexamples of Renaissance sculpture in the south.Inside the castle is the Palatine Chapel, the only buildingthat still has its original look, and the extraordinary Barons’Hall. The Civic Museum here was inaugurated in 1992.

Castel Nuovo dominates the centre of piazzaMunicipio. At the high end of the square SanGiacomo Palace rises, seat of the City of Naples; it incorporates the 16th century San Giacomo degliSpagnoli Church. Behind the altar rests themagnificent tomb of the Viceroy Pedro da Toledo.

From Castel Nuovo to Foria and the Sanità

The artisans of rua Catalana

In the area of via Medina,close to piazza Municipio,the narrow rua Catalanaopens. It is known for its

numerous shops workingiron, copper and tin. This,and the adjoining streets(via Graziella, via Basile andcalata Ospitaletto), hasbecome theatre of thepermanent exhibition ofhumourous lampposts andiron sculptures signed by master ironmongers.

famous travellers

But, look: what mean yon surly walls? A fortress? and inthe heart of town? Even so. And rapt I stare thereon. Herman Melville, 1857

The Royal Palace

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Castel Nuovo


The Umberto I gallery (1887-1890) above has asplendid iron and glass covering 57 meters high,and below an elegant inlaid marble floor. There areshops, cafès and bookstores on the inside.Santa Brigida Church is part of the complex and has a beautiful fresco called Heaven, by Luca Giordano, in its dome.

The San Carlo Theatre, inaugurated on November4, 1737, and named after its patron Charles ofBourbon, is the oldest opera house in the world. Thebuilding, partially destroyed by fire in 1816, wasrestored by Antonio Niccolini, the designer of itsfaçade. In the early 1800’s the San Carlo Theatrelived through one of its most glorious seasons everthanks to the impresario Domenico Barbaja whocommissioned works by musicians such asGioachino Rossini and Gaetano Donizetti.

Coming out of the theatre we find ourselves onpiazza Trieste e Trento (once piazza SanFerdinando) where the historical cafè Gambrinusstill stands, once the preferred meeting place forpoets and intellectuals. The baroque San Fernando Church, which givesonto the same square, is home to a great tradition:every Good Friday the Stabat Mater of Pergolesi isperformed.

Crossing the piazza Trieste e Trento the famouspiazza del Plebiscito opens up, the largest of thecity, spectacular backdrop of cultural events andconcerts. It is characterised by the profile of the San Francesco di Paola Church, with itsneoclassical colonnade and its Pantheon of Romeinspired interior.

At the centre of the square the two great statues ofCharles of Bourbon (work of Antonio Canova) andFerdinand I on horseback face the Royal Palace.Construction was begun in the early 1600’s basedon a project by Domenico Fontana. Enriched byJoachim Murat and Carolina Bonaparte with neo-classical embellishments and decorations, somefrom the Tuileries, it was damaged in 1837 by fire,and restored by Gaetano Genovese.

To visit the priceless interior cross over the honourcourtyard and enter the Historical Living QuartersMuseum (30 rooms on one floor) which has preserved theoriginal furniture and décor. The monumental staircaseof coloured marble inlay and the Small Court Theatre, aballroom transformed in 1768 by Fernando Fuga into agracious Rococo ambience, are beautiful. In another part ofthe palace the National Library, with its more than millionand a half volumes and several priceless medieval codices,can be found. The famous papyrus of Herculaneum arepreserved here.

famous travellers

The first impressioni s that of having landed in the palace of someoriental emperor. There is nothing in all of Europe that evencomes close to this theatre, not even in the remotest way. Your eyes remain dazzled, your soul raptured… Stendhal

New Years in piazza del Plebiscito

Since 1994, when thesquare was permanentlyclosed to traffic, therebybecoming the symbol of the

From piazza del Plebiscito,going up along via GennaroSerra, you reach via Montedi Dio in the Pizzofalcone

rebirth of the city, piazza delPlebiscito has welcomed inthe New Year with a majorconcert alternatingmusicians and showbusiness personalities.During the Christmasseason, world famousartists exhibit theircontemporary works of artin the square.

Italian Institute ofPhilosophical Studies

quarter, first nucleus of theGreek settlement.Here you will find the ItalianInstitute of PhilosophicalStudies inside the Serra di Cassano Palace with itssplendid stairway.The main entrance waswalled up in 1799 by theDukes of Serra di Cassano,after their son Gennaro,

martyr of the PartenopeanRevolution of 1799, washung.As a Unesco report states,the Institute “has conquereda dimension incomparableanywhere in the world andcontributes to make Naplesa true cultural capital”.

Piazza delPlebiscito and San Francescodi Paola Church

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Umberto I Gallery

The San Carlo Theatre


From piazza del Plebiscito the vital via Toledobegins, the main axis of the urban expansionprojected in 1536 by order of the Viceroy Pedro deToledo. Many Neapolitans simply call it Toledo, forothers it is via Roma (because it was so called from1870 to the 1980’s). Via Toledo is one of the mainstreets of the city, characterised by ancient churchesand palaces such as the Carafa di Maddaloni(1582) and the Doria D’Angri (1755), fruit of thegenius of Luigi Vanvitelli. From his balconyGaribaldi proclaimed the annexation of Kingdom of the Two Sicilies to the Kingdom of Italy.Off to one side of via Toledo, at the foot of the SanMartino Hill, the Spanish Quarters’ spiderwebunfolds.

Once in piazza Carità, a little detour must be madeto visit two jewels of Renaissance art: the churches of Monteoliveto and Santa Maria La Nova.

Built in the 1400’s, the church of Monteoliveto(or Sant’Anna dei Lombardi) preserves its simpleinterior and the rigorous formality of the originalstructure. The Del Pezzo and Ligorio altars aremasterpieces of Renaissance sculpture. Themagnificent lifesized terracotta sculptures of theLament of the Dead Christ (said to represent themembers of the Aragon royal family) are hosted inthe capital area.

The Santa Maria la Nova Church is alsoRenaissance, with its imposing cloisters. Built in the1200’s it was completely restructured starting in1596. Also splendid the gilded wood caissonceiling, into which 46 panels, painted by the majorNeapolitan artists of the day, were inserted at the endof the 1500’s.

The last part of via Toledo gives onto piazza Dante.

Decorated by the monument to Dante (1872) by TitoAngelini, it is enclosed by the hemicycle of the ForoCarolino, constructed by Luigi Vanvitelli. Port’Albastands out to the left of the hemicycle, from whichyou reach the street of the same name, site of someof the oldest bookstores of Naples.

Near to piazza Dante is the NationalArchaeological Museum, the most importantmuseum of classical archaeology in the world.Charles of Bourbon put the largest art collection inItaly, the Farnese collection inherited by his motherElisabeth, into this building (the old “Study Palace”or university). Over the years the largestarchaeological collection of all time, relics from thecity and from the villas buried under the ashes ofVesuvius in 79 BC, was brought here.

The most important collection of the museum is that of themosaics, paintings, jewellery and objects recoveredfrom the buried vesuvian homes. A collection unmatchedpeer in the world that attracts, needless to say, millions ofvisitors.Another highlight is the classical sculpture collection,some roman copies of Greek originals, amongst which thecelebrated Farnese sculptures (the Bull, the Hercules anddozens of others). The cameo and cut gem collection,which includes the extraordinary Farnese Cup, is also veryrich. The vast epigraph collection includes over 2,000pieces representing all of the languages once spoken inCampania (from Greek to Oscan, Etruscan to Latin). TheEgyptian collection is only second in importance in Italyto that of Turin. There is a section dedicated to the PapyrusVilla, the famous roman house in Herculaneum thatbrought to light so many relics, amongst which thecelebrated statues in bronze and marble.The Secret Cabinet is a part of the museum that houses a19th century collection of Greek and Roman objectsconsidered “obscene” at the times, reserved only forauthorized visitors. It includes now sculptures, frescoes,mosaics, amulets, oil-lamps and graffiti with erotic themesfrom the digs at Pompeii.

famous travellers

“we wanna see Don Peppe!”Crowds of Neapolitans under the balcony of Doria d’Angri Palace where Garibaldi was staying

famous travellers

“I am leaving. I will forget neither via Toledo, nor any of the other quarters of Naples: to my eyes it is, without a doubt, the most beautiful city in the universe”Stendhal, 1817

Art in the Metro

“The best contemporary artmuseum in Italy” That ishow Line 1 of the NaplesMetro has been defined.

The stations, in fact, fromVanvitelli-Dante thatconnect the historical centreto the Vomero, are knownas the art stations.Architects of internationalacclaim have redone thecontours of the stations,and the stations themselveshave become enriched withworks of contemporary art.

In the Museo station, doneby Gae Aulenti, a largebronze horse head, calledCavallo Carafa (belongingto the National ArcheolocalMuseum) and a copy of theFarnese Hercules, made bythe students of the NaplesAcademy of Arts, areexhibited.

The Spanish Quarter

Planned following achessboard motif in the 16th

century to accommodate theSpanish troops and their

families, the Spanish Quarterhas been transformed overthe ages into a city withinthe city, a picturesque andlively quarter. Strollingabout these streets(carefully), one encounterskids playing ball and standsthat sell just abouteverything.

The Mosaic ofAlexander the

GreatThe National

Archaeological Museum

The Art Metro

Tyrannicides.National

ArchaeologicalMuseum

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PignaseccaMarket

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Totò and Eduardo,poets of the Sanità

“I am from the Sanità district,the most famous in Naples”Totò loved to exclaim, and infact he was born here in1898. His house in via Santa

Maria Antesaecula hasbecome a shrine where onecan go to pay homage to thegreat King of Laughs.Eduardo de Filippo, on theother hand, went to school inthis quarter, and he hasimmortalised it in one of hismost famous theatricalproductions, The LocalAuthority (1960).

Fontanelle Cemetery

A gigantic bone deposit in tuffcaverns where thousands ofbones and skulls form macabrestructures. Here started the Cultof the Souls in Purgatory, the

deaths due to the choleraepidemic in 1836. Adopting askull, or some other remains ofthe dead, and not ever leavingthem without a candle, meansgetting protection from themand having them pleasantlyvisit you in your dreams. Youcan get into the cemetery fromthe small church of MariaSantissima del Carmine, in viaFontanelle.

for the poor), begun in 1751by Ferdinando Fuga. Thework, which was meant tolodge all the poor in therealm, remained incomplete.Cultural events are hosted inthe restored area.

From the museum you get onto piazza Cavour:here begins via Foria that crosses the popularSanità, Vergini and Sant’Antonio districts. The lovely16th century church of Santa Maria della Sanità,with its grandiose pincer-shaped stairs that framethe crypt, is to be seen. From the church you gainaccess to the Catacombs of San Gaudioso. In thisquarter you can find the 17th century Palace of theSpaniard (dello Spagnolo) and the SanfelicePalace both works of Ferdinando Sanfelice andused as models for theatrical backdrops.

Further along, via Foria reaches the Botanicalgardens.

Created in 1807 by Giuseppe Bonaparte, it was originallyconceived to study plants useful to agriculture, commerceand for medicinal purposes. Today, the area of circa 12 hectares contains about 10,000 species for a total of25,000 plants, one of Italy’s most important collections forcontent and area. Particularly interesting is the rich varietyof succulents.

Back at the Archaeological Museum, ascend towardsCapodimonte on via Santa Teresa degli Scalzi.Next to the big Incoronata del Buon ConsiglioChurch are the catacombs of San Gennaro,among the oldest and most amazing of Campania.Going further up the hill you arrive at the RoyalPalace of Capodimonte, which houses the museumof the same name.

famous travellers

Three young friends that were travelling together in Italy last year visited the Museum of Studies, in Naples, where various ancient relics found in theexcavations of Pompeii and Herculaneum were on display… The youngest,stopped in front of an exhibit, seemed not to hear the exclamations of hiscompanions, so absorbed was he in profound contemplation.Théophile Gautier, 1852

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Real Albergo dei Poveri

From the vast piazza Carlo IIIyou can admire the giganticfaçade (600x150 m) of theAlbergo dei Poveri (Hospice

Catacombs of San Gennaro

Botanical Gardens

Church of SantaMaria della Sanità


The waterfront between Castel dell’Ovo andPosillipo, with its panoramic view of the entire Gulf,Vesuvius and the islands, is the most famous sceneof Naples.The profile of the coast is dominated by the massivetuff wall of the Castel dell’Ovo, the oldest of thecity, that sits on the little islet of Megaris facing thefamous Santa Lucia quarter. Now connected to landby a small bridge, the island was chosen by theroman patrician Licinius Lucullus as site for his newvilla. It was transformed into a convent by the SaintBasil monks in about 492 AD. Under the Normans inthe 12th century it became a fortress. The Hall of theColumns, so called because it re-used the powerfulcolumns of the original villa, must be visited. Fromthe cannon terrace, on the high part of the castle,you can enjoy a marvellous view of the gulf.Under the walls of the castle is Borgo Marinari,constructed in the 1800’s, it was originally meant to house fishermen, their boats and their families. It now houses nautical clubs, restaurants, bars and trendy night spots.

The waterfront: from Chiaia to Posillipo

Virgil the wizard

The name of Castel dell’Ovo(Castle of the Egg) derivesfrom a legend tied to thepoet Virgil, to whom the

medieval Neapolitansattributed magical powers.One of the wizard’stalismans was said to behidden in the castle: an eggpreserved in a jug andlocked in an iron cage. Thecastle would never crumbleas long as the egg remainedintact.

famous travellers

If there is a place on earth where you can be happy,then it is on the Santa Lucia waterfront.Paul Edme de Musset, 1885

Castel dell’Ovo

Via Caracciolo and the VillaComunale (City Park)

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Walking along the very famous via Caracciolo youcan enjoy some of the most beautiful scenery ofNaples, from Vesuvius all the way to the hills ofPosillipo, dotted with houses immersed in green andall framed by the intense blue of the sea. ViaCaracciolo runs parallel to Villa Comunale, the CityPark, once called Royal gardens and designed byLuigi Vanvitelli at the end of the 1700’s, and to theold waterfront that even today is called the Rivieradi Chiaia. You can visit the Zoological Sation,(founded by the German Anton Dohrn in 1872) andthe oldest Aquarium in Europe. On the Riviera diChiaia, in the neoclassical Villa Pignatelli, is thePrincipe Diego Aragona Pignatelli CortesMuseum, still with its original furnishings. TheBank of Naples keeps its rich collection of paintingshere. A Carriage Museum is soon to be opened inthe old stables with a collection of period coachesand harnesses.Via Caracciolo ends at Mergellina, where accordingto legend the current dragged the lifeless body of thesiren Partenope. Also here the view is breathtaking,the hills of Posillipo and Vomero with Vesuvius inthe distance.

Near to piazza Sannazaro is via di Piedigrotta(so called because it was at the foot of the grotto,today a tunnel, dug in the 1st century BC by theRomans who wanted to make transit from Pozzuolito Naples easier: in fact the other side of the tunnelis called Fuorigrotta, or out of the grotto) that endsin front of Santa Maria di Piedigrotta.Between the church and the Mergellina Station is theentrance to the Park of the Tomb of Virgil, one ofthe most visited sites of the Grand Tour. The parkhosts the so-called tomb of Virgil, a 1st century ADsepulchre traditionally identified with the burial ofthe poet. In 1939 the tomb of another great poet,Giacomo Leopardi, who died in Naples in 1837, wasalso transferred here.Leaving the waterfront behind, going on to theWestern district, in piazzale Tecchio we find theMostra d’Oltremare; a large exhibition centre built inthe 1930’s of great historical, architectural andenvironmental value. The area of about 700.000square metres houses buildings, gardens, fountainsand a large open-air arena the serves as a theatre.

Luxury Shopping

The ideal shopping tripbegins on via Toledo andthen goes on to the viasChiaia, Calabritto,

Filangieri, dei Mille, thestreets considered the mostelegant, and with thefamous stores. Some of thebig name fashion brandshave shops here, from softluxurious leather ware to clothing and ties.The Chiaia area is rich withnoble buildings from the16-1700’s and scenic

The PAN (Palazzo delle Arti Napoli)

In via dei Mille, PAN hasrecently been inaugurated inthe 18th century RoccellaPalace.

This new cultural centrewelcomes contemporary artin all its forms: frompainting to sculpture,architecture to photography,design to cinema.

façades like those on piazzadei Martiri, alwaysconsidered one of the bestaddresses of the City, whilethe nearby Amedeo districtoffers a lovely repertory of Liberty-style architecture.

Villa Comunale,with the Aquarium in the background

Villa Pignatelli

famous travellers

I think of you every day, when, opening the balcony I see this sparkling seaunfold itself under the oranges of Posillipo, furrowed by the many boats, whosetwo little white veils are similar to the white wings of the seagulls. At my feet thegrassy fields of the Royal Villa, dotted with rose bushes, already green like ourmost beautiful ones in Spring.Alphonse de Lamartine, 1820

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The PAN, Palazzo delle Arti Napoli


From Mergellina the beautiful scenic Via Posillipogoes up the hill, the old Pausilypon (Greek for “pain reliever”). You can see the enormous PalazzoDonn’Anna and numerous villas immersed ingreen.At the extreme end of the promontory of Coroglio is the Villa del Pausilypon, the remains of theluxurious home of Publius Vedius Pollio, one ofOctavian’s supporters. Upon his death the villa wentto the emperor.

The grandiose villa was composed of severalbuildings erected between the 1st century BC andthe 4th AD, to cover an area of about 9 hectares. Atthe centre was the huge residential structure, aroundwhich were built a grandiose theatre, an odeion andthermal baths. Apart from its private dock on theCala dei Lampi, the complex included its own roadsand the tunnel known as the ‘Grotta di Seiano’, thatcrosses the rocky coastline to Coroglio, which todayis the point of access to the complex.

famous travellers

The magnificence of a night in the full moon, like the one weenjoyed strolling the streets and piazzas, along the infinitewaterfront of Chiaia, and then up and down along the shore.One is really overcome by the sensation of the infinity of space.To dream like this is worth while.Johann Wolfgang Goethe, 1787

famous travellers

There saw we learned Maro’s golden tomb, The way he cut, an English mile in length, thorough a rock of stone, in onenight’s space.Christopher Marlowe, 1588

The Piedigrotta Festivaland the Neapolitan song

The Festival takes place inSeptember, with processionsand spectacular fireworkdisplays. It was during this

very festival that in 1835 theNeapolitan song rose to thestatus of a musical genre. Tevoglio bene assaje, its melodycomposed by GateanoDonizetti, became famous allover the world. The mostfamous Neapolitan songswere written during the lasttwo decades of the 19th

century, but the tradition

Palazzo Donn’Anna

One of the most celebratedof the city for its spectacularposition, like an enourmouscliff that surges up from the

sea, Palazzo Donn’Anna isone of the symbols ofPosillipo. Constructed in1642 by Cosimo Fanzago forAnna Carafa, wife of FilippoRamiro Guzman, Viceroy ofNaples, it remainedincomplete and assumed thefascinating aspect of anancient ruin. It is the sourceof many dark legends:

continued in the 20th century,with very popular singer-songwriters, and the NuovaCompagnia di CantoPopolare, which becamefamous worldwide with itsGatta Cenerentola by RobertoDe Simone. The genre is stillthriving thanks to the activitiesof singer-songwriters, rockgroups and jazz musicians.

Donn’Anna, abandoned byher husband, who went backto Spain, is said to havegone insane after beingbetrayed by a lover.

PalazzoDonn’Anna

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The most spectacular panorama of Posillipo isenjoyed from the Virgiliano Park, located on the topof the hill. From between trees, gardens andsporting facilities, one’s eyes roam over the entireGulf of Naples, the Phlegrean Fields, and over to thesea, from which the island of Nisida emerges.This magical scenery inspired a whole generation of painters in the 1800’s, known as the School of Posillipo. Their rendering of this enchantedpanorama did much to contribute to the fame of thebeauty of Naples.

From the sheer cliffs of Coroglio and the cove of Trentaremi, to the western edge of Posillipo, wecan see nearby Bagnoli. Today it is the object of anample project aimed at recuperating the marineenvironment, the beach and the former Italsiderironworks abandoned years ago. Some of the resultsof this project can already be seen in the ScienceCentre or ‘Città della Scienza’, an interestingexample of the recovery of industrial archaeology.Dedicated to scientific phenomena and the history ofdiscoveries, the first science centre in Italy is aninteractive museum and a hub of scientific andavantgarde technology. The visit, from the largeplanetarium to the scientific instruments that “must”be touched, is particularly interesting for children.

famous travellers

Say, tell or paint what you will, but here all expectations are exceeded. This shore, the gulfs, the coves… May all thosewho lose their minds in Naples be forgiven!Johann Wolfgang Goethe, 1787

the beaches for a diveinto the city

In the summer months, thebeaches of Posillipo areassaulted by bathers. UnderPalazzo Donn’Anna there aremany bathing

establishments. At the end ofthe descending path of thesame name is the Marechiarolido, once a tiny fishingvillage, nostalgicallydescribed by the poetSalvatore Di Giacomo in thesong by the same name(immortalized by a smallplaque). The far point ofGaiola with the cove ofTrentaremi is beautiful, and

the natural amphitheatre isgrandiose with its high wallsof yellow tuff. This is wherethe protected marine reserveGaiola Underwater Park is.Here you can see the remainsof some of the buildings ofthe nearby roman villa ofPublius Vedius Pollio,submerged due tobradyseism (a geologicalphenomenon).

Nisida and,in the background,

Capo Miseno,Procida and Ischia

Panorama from the Virgiliano Park

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The Vomero district was born in the 1800’s, in agreen zone famous for its views of the Gulf. Todaythe small Liberty Style villas exist side by side tomodern buildings, and are one of the most livelyquarters of Naples, with a wealth of shoppingattractions.

The heart of the Vomero is Piazza Vanvitelli, fromwhich it is easy to reach Villa Floridiana, a gift ofFerdinand of Bourbon to his morganatic wife LuciaMigliaccio, the Duchess of Floridia. The elegantbuilding, built by Antonio Niccolini and surroundedby a large park with fake ruins, sumptuous paths,fields and a panoramic terrace, today houses theDuca di Martina Ceramics Museum. The nucleusof the collection are the pieces donated by the heirsof Placido De Sangro, Duke of Martina, an avidcollector of coral, ivory, snuff-boxes and most of allporcelain and majolica. The collection of porcelainfrom Capodimonte and the Far East are especiallyinteresting.

The hills: from Vomero to Capodimonte

famous travellers

A forty year-old widow, far from beautiful but none-the-less kind, at the timerented me half of her small house… at the foot of the mountain that dominates,the close by villa of Princess Floridia, wife of the old King. It is, perhaps, the onlypart of Naples that is a bit tranquil.Stendhal, 1839

Capodimonte Museum

Hall of the Ducadi Martina Museum

in the Villa Floridiana

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From Piazza Vanvitelli you can get to the top of thehill (with the escalator, if you wish), to the CastelSant’Elmo and the Certosa (charterhouse) of SanMartino.Castel Sant’Elmo dominates the city with itsimposing profile. With the nearby charterhouse, it isvisible from many parts of Naples. This massivefortress was built in the 1300’s by Robert of Anjouand was completely restructured under the Pedro deToledo government (1537-1546). The ground planforms a six-pointed star; part of it carved into thetuff rock, and is surrounded by bastions and moats.From the glacis you can enjoy a 360° panorama ofNaples.

Next to the Castle is the monumental complex of theCertosa of San Martino, also projected by Robertof Anjou. It was begun by Tino di Camaino in 1325,and later transformed in the 1500’s and the middle1600’s by the most noted architects of the day(Dosio, Fanzago), thus becoming the most completeexample of Neapolitan Baroque and one of the city’smost grandiose monuments.

famous travellers

Beneath, the great city with its four hundred thousand souls, its red tiles and irregular masses of brick-work, contrasting with the gilded domes of the superb churches.A.J. O’Reilly 1884

the ‘pedamentina’ of San Martino

From San Martino, followthe steps of the long steepVia Pedamentina, to arriveto Corso Vittorio Emanuele

and then on to Via Toledo inthe heart of the lower city.With its 414 steps it is oneof Naples’ oldest streets.At the end of the first rampthere is an old gate thattakes you into the belly ofthe hill. From there, theroyal guards warded off theassaults on the CastelSant’Elmo.

Naples as it was at the end of the 1400’s.The ‘Strozzi Table’.Museum of San Martino

View of CastelSant’Elmo and the

Certosa of San Martino

from Castel Nuovo

Cuciniello Crib.Museum

of San Martino

The inside of the church is a triumph of frescoes,sculptures, polychromatic marble and paintings. Thefrescoes were done by, among others, Giovanni Lanfrancoand Battistello Caracciolo. Even the presbytery and thesacristy are richly decorated: oils by Ribera, MassimoStanzione and Guido Reni, wardrobes and choir-stalls ofinlaid wood. The vault of the ‘Cappella del Tesoro’ isdecorated with the luminous fresco by Luca Giordano, The Triumph of Judith. The halls around the cloister housethe National Museum of San Martino. The museum hassections dedicated to sculpture and painting, minor artsand theatre. The section dedicated to the scenes of the city is veryimportant, starting with works from the 1400’s andincluding the famous Tavola Strozzi. Particularly interestingis the cribs’ section made up of works by artists from the1700’s and by two exceptional groups of works: the woodenfigurines of San Giovanni a Carbonara from the 1400’s andthe Cuciniello Crib from the 1800’s, named after its donor.Do not miss the Prior’s Apartment (the restored livingquarters of the Prior), set in a very panoramic position, and the beautiful gardens of the convent.

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The highest point of the city is the Eremo deiCamaldoli, an hermitage at 457 mt above sea level.It was constructed in 1585 and has a splendid viewover the Gulf, the islands and the Phlegrean Fields.The border of the urban weave of the hill, it alsomerits a visit to fully enjoy the nearby CamaldoliPark.

From Camaldoli, going down along Viale ColliAminei, you arrive to Capodimonte. The namederives from the late latin “Caput de Monte” (top ofthe mount) and clearly indicates its position: a hillon the highest part of the City. Here rises the RoyalPalace of Capodimonte, surrounded by a vastpark. Charles of Bourbon, a dedicated hunter,wanted to construct a hunting lodge here. Afterhaving done so, he had it enlarged to house theprecious Farnese collections. The building,designed by Antonio Medrano, was finished only in1839. Located in the immense park are the huntinglodge of Vittorio Emanuele II, a small lodge knownas “of the Queen”, the Chapel of San Gennaro, thebuilding of the old 1737 porcelain factory ofCharles of Bourbon, the hermitage of the Cappuccinimonks and the Fagianeria (pheasant breedingfacility).Today, the Royal Palace is home to the NationalMuseum of Capodimonte, one of the mostimportant in the world for painting and thedecorative arts.

the CapodimontePorcelains

In 1738 Charles of Bourbonwed Maria Amalia, daughterof August the Strong ofSassony and founder of the

celebrated porcelain factory ofMeissen. The King decided toopen a porcelain factory toproduce precious pieces likethe famous “porcelain sittingroom” of the Queen, and amultitude of other elegant andcurious objects: vases andsnuff-boxes, soup-tureensand plates, statuettes andbowls.

In 1759 Charles, now King ofSpain, took the manufacturewith him to Madrid. Theproduction continued inNaples in the FernandeaRoyal Factory. Today theNeapolitan craftsmen keep theancient art alive, continuing tomake works inspired by theold masters, as well as withoriginal creations.

the CapodimonteObservatory

Located in a splendidposition on the MiradoisHill and housed in a neo-classical building, the

Astronomic Observatory,the first of the modernobservatories of Europe,was founded in 1819 by theastronomer GiuseppePiazzi. The museumcontains a rich collection of historic scientificinstruments.

The Flagellationby Caravaggio,CapodimonteMuseum

Vesuvius byAndy Warhol,CapodimonteMuseum

Porcelain in theCapodimonteMuseum

famous travellers

Capodimonte, that rises on the mountaintop… is a vast palace begun by DonCarlos, presently King of Spain. Here are housed all the riches…from the ParmaPalace of the Farnese family that Charles took to Naples when he came throughthis Duchy to the throne of the Two Sicilies. The position of this palace is thebest of the world.Marquis de Sade, 1776

The InebriatedSilenus byRibera and theCrucifictionby Masaccio,CapodimonteMuseum

The main nucleus of the Museum is the FarneseCollection, started by Pope Paul III and inherited byCharles’ mother Elisabeth Farnese. The picture gallery hasmore than 200 masterpieces: Masaccio, Botticelli, Raphael,Ribera, Titian, Mantegna, Correggio, El Greco, LorenzoLotto, Parmigianino, Carracci, and Bruegel. There are alsotwo preparative drawings by Raphael for the ‘SegnaturaRoom’, and by Michelangelo for the Pauline Chapel in theVatican. Also exceptional is the gallery of 13th-19thcentury Neapolitan painting: the Saint Ludovico ofTolosa by Simone Martini, the evocative Flagellation byCaravaggio, and again the works of Ribera, Luca Giordano,and Francesco Solimena. The section dedicated to the1800’s is rich with the School of Posillipo painters, fromAnton Smick Pitloo to Giacinto Gigante, and the masters of Naturalism, like the Palizzis. The many artists of the late1800’s and early 1900’s – from Domenico Morelli toVincenzo Migliaro – complete the artistic panorama. The contemporary section is also renewed by thepresence of artists such as Alberto Burri, Andy Warhol,Carlo Alfano and Mimmo Paladino.The Museum holds other surprises: the HistoricApartment, with the porcelain sitting room of QueenMaria Amalia, for example. The collection of decorativearts is one of the richest in all of Italy with unique workslike the precious Farnese Box and the wall tapestries ofd’Avalos, and the exceptional porcelain works like theAurora Cart by Filippo Tagliolini.

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