Name Fist Pack v2 Variable Power Version

8/17/2019 Name Fist Pack v2 Variable Power Version

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Fistpack v2.0 Walk-Through

Notice: This guide is published as open source. I welcome all suggestions and have tried tomake it as easy as possible to follow so that anyone who wants to build one can do so.Please do not use this walk-through to make the mod for profit and help encourage theopen nature of the modding community.

For questions and suggestions visit http://vapersforum.com and send a message to Nuck

Name Fistpack v2.0 (variable power)

Batteries 18650 AW 2600 mah OR AW LiMN 1600 mah(lower mah, very high discharge, safechemistry)

Power Variable (4.35, 4.60, 4.75, 4.95v under load)

Atomizer Variable (this guide uses a 901, switching toan 18500 battery allows use of a 510)

Build Time 3-5 hours

Cost of components Approx 60-65 bucks

Disclaimer: This mod can be very frustrating to build. Space is tight and there is a lot ofroom for error. You should have at least a few mods under your belt or you’re going to endup wasting your money. On the bright side, I have a very weak background in electronicsand my soldering skills are mediocre at best and I've managed to make a lot of these modssuccessfully. Just take your time and take it one step at a time and it will all fall into place.

Credit: There have been many people that have helped out along the way but I'd like to

specifically mention RjG as being incredibly helpful. He has helped me track down errors andpointed out weak areas with solutions more times than I can count. Thanks Randy :)

Parts

Fistpack body:(Blue)http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.23734

(Black)http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=220402222514

Switch:http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=GH1349-ND

Switch Caphttp://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=360-2162-ND&itemSeq=83081762&uq=634024529165533812

Slide Switch:http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&si

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=GH1349-NDhttp://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=220402222514http://vapersforum.com/http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=ca&keywords=679-1874-ND&x=22&y=15http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=360-2162-ND&itemSeq=83081762&uq=634024529165533812http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=360-2162-ND&itemSeq=83081762&uq=634024529165533812http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=360-2162-ND&itemSeq=83081762&uq=634024529165533812http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=GH1349-NDhttp://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=GH1349-NDhttp://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=220402222514http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=220402222514http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=220402222514http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.23734http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.23734http://vapersforum.com/


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te=ca&keywords=679-1874-ND&x=22&y=15

Capacitors (2 required)http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=495-1529-1-ND

Diode

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=B280-FDICT-ND

Resistors (10k, 47k, 75k, 150k) - All resistors should be 1/8 watt or better.http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CF18JT10K0CT-NDhttp://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CF18JT47K0CT-NDhttp://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CF18JT75K0CT-NDhttp://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CF18JT150KCT-ND

DC-DC Boost Converterhttp://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=296-20500-ND

Batteryhttp://www.lighthound.com/AW-IMR18650-1600mAh-LiMN-rechargeable-lithium-battery_p_

2797.html

OR

(if you are comfortable soldering bats you can use these but be aware they are a very tightfit)http://www.lighthound.com/AW-18650-Protected-2600-mAh-Rechargeable-Lithium-Battery--New-Version_p_3125.html

Mosfethttp://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=ca&keywords=IRLU3114ZPBF-ND&x=0&y=0

Kapton Tape (useful but not essential, electrical tape will work if that's all you have)http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5101

General Notes

1. The mod is sealed and no airflow comes from the mod so it's fine to use lead basedsolder if you want.

2. I use solid 26 gauge wire for the build.

3. The few places that require epoxy I use a standard 2 part epoxy and it has held upvery well.

4. During soldering be sure all wires are tinned prior to connecting.

5. I have assumed a minimal amount of experience for people who might be using theguide to make a mod. I apologize in advance to the more experienced modders if Imade it too simplistic.

Alternate Lower Voltage Build

For those that want the slider to output between 4.0 and 4.5v there is a really easy trickthat RjG shared with me. If you add a 100k resistor between the Adj pin and and vOut pin

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5101http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5101http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5101http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=ca&keywords=IRLU3114ZPBF-ND&x=0&y=0http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=ca&keywords=IRLU3114ZPBF-ND&x=0&y=0http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=ca&keywords=IRLU3114ZPBF-ND&x=0&y=0http://www.lighthound.com/AW-18650-Protected-2600-mAh-Rechargeable-Lithium-Battery--New-Version_p_3125.htmlhttp://www.lighthound.com/AW-18650-Protected-2600-mAh-Rechargeable-Lithium-Battery--New-Version_p_3125.htmlhttp://www.lighthound.com/AW-18650-Protected-2600-mAh-Rechargeable-Lithium-Battery--New-Version_p_3125.htmlhttp://www.lighthound.com/AW-IMR18650-1600mAh-LiMN-rechargeable-lithium-battery_p_2797.htmlhttp://www.lighthound.com/AW-IMR18650-1600mAh-LiMN-rechargeable-lithium-battery_p_2797.htmlhttp://www.lighthound.com/AW-IMR18650-1600mAh-LiMN-rechargeable-lithium-battery_p_2797.htmlhttp://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=296-20500-NDhttp://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=296-20500-NDhttp://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CF18JT150KCT-NDhttp://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CF18JT150KCT-NDhttp://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CF18JT75K0CT-NDhttp://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CF18JT47K0CT-NDhttp://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CF18JT10K0CT-NDhttp://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=B280-FDICT-NDhttp://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=B280-FDICT-NDhttp://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=495-1529-1-NDhttp://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=495-1529-1-NDhttp://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=ca&keywords=679-1874-ND&x=22&y=15http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=ca&keywords=679-1874-ND&x=22&y=15


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on the booster the 4 voltages will be changed to:

4.0v4.15v4.3v4.5v

The diode in the build is still required.

These are perfect voltages for those that don't want a really heavy hit but still desire areliable solid hit similar to what you get with a large fully charged battery. The best part is,the booster is only generating 4.6v so it also adds some battery life to each cycle.

Thanks again to RjG again for sharing.

Warning: Do not reduce the vOut below this level as the booster needs headroom betweenthe source and output voltage. Doing so could harm your booster.

Shortcut

For experienced modders that want to skip the walk-through and just do their own version,here is the parallel schematic that gets added to the Fistpack:


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Note: If you decide to skip the walk-through I would recommend that you at least check the points on the board that should be protected against shorts.

Disassembly

Remove 4 body screws.

Carefully pry off the top cover of the body. If you looked at the text on the side of the mod,the top is when the text is right side up. When prying off the top cover be careful with thethin metal piece on the back. It is held by 3 plastic clips on the body and it is easy to break.

I use a small flat screwdriver and slowly work my way around the body, gently prying as Igo.


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Remove the LED PCB found on the side carefully making sure it is does not touch any metal.It is very easy to short out this board so be careful.

Remove the 2 screws on the main PCB.


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Gently pry the battery up and remove the PCB and battery. The battery is held with doublesided tape in the middle of the battery so just work it a bit with a small flat screwdriver toget the battery loose. Remove the battery and the PCB.

Note: The cover for the fuel gauge test button will drop out at this point, be sure to store itin a safe place for later.

Pull the battery away from the PCB and disconnect the battery tabs where they connect tothe PCB using a solder iron. Take careful notice of the craptastic batteries they supply withthe body. Needless to say we will NOT be sticking with it.


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Disassembly is complete.

Note: You can put the battery away as we're not going to be using it. After all the expenseand work that goes into making this mod it makes sense to spend a few extra bucks and


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use a quality battery. The AW bats I've tried give 40-50% longer life per cycle.

PCB Modification

To fit all our own circuitry into the body we have to remove the USB out port and a few

capacitors that we don’t need.

To remove a capacitor, just pull the cap straight up using a pair of pliers. They come offquite easily. Snip remaining leads right down to the board ensuring that the remainingconnection leads cannot touch each other to form a short.


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To remove the USB connector:

Desolder the 2 points shown completely using a desoldering braid. Using a small flatscrewdriver, pry up the side of the connector. Once it is lifted, I wiggle the connector backand forth until the 4 leads at the back give out. If there are any leads at the rear of the USBport remaining attached to the PCB, snip them down to the board and ensure there is nomaterial left that crosses between the 4 USB connection points. Double check to make sure

none of the 4 connection points can short out.


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Optional Step

I have a friend who was using a fistpack that had a USB charge port work itself loose afterusing for a while. You may wish to take a few minutes and strengthen some or all of theconnection points on the corners of the USB port. (I recommend you do this since fixing itlater is a lot of work)


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Taping the board

There are two key spots to protect on the board to prevent shorts in the future. I usekapton tape to protect the USB input from contacting the underside of the boost chip and onthe small resistor that will fit under the slide switch.


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Preparing the mosfet

I prepare the mosfet before installing since its a lot easier to work with out in the open.Turn the mosfet so that the metal plate is facing up. The pins from left to right will besource, drain and gate.

Bend the gate and the drain pins up and clip them to about 5mm in length. Clip the sourceto about 3mm.

Tin each of the 3 leads on the mosfet.


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Attach a 10k resistor between the source and the gate

Attach a 3" red wire to the gate (far right)

Attach a 3" black wire to the drain (middle)


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Securing the mosfet

The mosfet is attached in the position shown and held to the PCB using a small solderbridge between the mosfet source and the battery ground terminal on the PCB.

Finalizing the board wiring

Attach a 2" black wire to the battery ground terminal (used for battery connect)

Attach a 2" red wire to the battery positive terminal (used for battery connect)

Attach a second 2" red wire to battery positive terminal (used to connect to the voltage inon the boost chip)


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Prepare the bottom case.

Dremel off the tabs shown in the picture. Be careful not to let the dremel chuck touch thebody. I tend to forget about this and have ruined quite a few this way. I force myself to goslow and be extra cautious here. Clean off any excess bits before continuing.


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Preparing the chrome frame

Attach the chrome back to the bottom case. Drill or dremmel the holes for the switch and

the connector. I used a 901 for this build. Have a look at the location in the picture belowfor the location of the pushbutton. If you use a dremel to make the hole for the connectorgo slowly and make it as small as possible so the connector is press fit into the frame. Thiswill help the connector stay secured.

Using a counter sink remove a thin circle of chrome around the atomizer connection. This isimportant. You must ensure there will be no continuity between the connection and thechrome case.

Separate the chrome from the bottom case. Using a dremel, grind the chrome from theback of the connection, button and slide switch holes. This is to ensure a solid grip for thecomponents and to ensure the atomizer connection doesn't touch the chrome.


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Attach a 3" red wire to the centre post of the atomizer. I fill the centre hole with solder andthen attach the lead to there. If you look at the back of the connector you will see someslots cut into the shell. I attach the wire so that it will fall into one of the slots. This preventspressure from the battery from pushing the wire into the sharp edge at the bottom of theconnector.


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Press the atomizer into position.

Important: Test the continuity now between the connection and the chrome body. Therecannot be any connection here. If your meter reads 0.000 or up then you have continuity

and you have to remove any chrome that is causing it.

With the connector now in position, tin the top of the connection shell on the inside.

Attach a 3" black wire to the top of the connection shell with the wire running toward thepushbutton opening.

Tin the leads on the pushbutton.

Attach a 1" red wire to one of the pushbutton leads. Tin both ends.


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Insert the pushbutton and screw it in tight with the lead that has the wire attached closestto the slot for the slider switch.

The slide switch comes with 6 pins. The 2 outside pins are a common.


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Clip pins #2 and #6 off since we will not require them.

Tin the remaining leads and clip them to about 3mm or so (see pic)

Now we have to secure the atomizer connect and the slide switch to the chrome body. It isa LOT easier if you do these one at a time to avoid epoxy flowing in places you don't want itto.

Mix up your epoxy and let it sit for a minute or two to thicken

Add epoxy around the edges of the atomizer connection and put some on the inside toensure the connect is completely sealed. This will prevent juice from entering the mod andcausing all sorts of problems later. Do not build the epoxy up too high since we need all the

space available to fit our battery back in.


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Allow the epoxy to set.

Once the epoxy has set so that it will no longer flow, mix up some more to attach the slideswitch and let set for a few minutes until it is thick and tacky. Apply epoxy to the ends ofthe slider slot as shown:

Set the slide switch in the epoxy and position properly. Hold the switch in place until the

epoxy sets. I usually stop working at this point for about 20 minutes to allow the switch tofirmly set before continuing.


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Attach a 3" black wire to pin #1 on the slide switch

Attach a 150k resistor to pin #3 on the slide switchAttach a 75k resistor to pin #4 on the slide switchAttach a 47k resistor to pin #5 on the slide switch

Bend pin all pins down a bit (see picture)


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Take the wire lead from pin 5 and bend it so that it runs along the top of the other pins.

Solder the other resistors to the pin 5 wire and clip the excess from all but the pin #5 wire.


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Assembly

Attach the prepared PCB to the bottom case we just prepared and screw in place.

Attach the chrome piece back to the bottom case. You will have to put the fuel gauge testbutton cover in the slot for it in the chrome prior to snapping the chrome back in place. Iusually put the front part on first and carefully snap the rest of the chrome piece intoposition.


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Pre-boost wiring

Take the red wire that comes from the mosfet gate and connect it to the open pin on thepushbutton.

Take the other lead on the pushbutton and connect it to the positive bat terminal on the

PCB.


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The boost pins


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Preparing the boost

If you are using a boost chips with pins then clip the 4 pins down a bit on the boost PCB, tinthem and then set the boost into position. If you are using one of the boost chips that have4 solder balls then you can add a bit of solder to each of the 4 points on the boost. This willmake it easier to make all the connections required for the boost wiring.

You could glue it down if you know the proper location but I prefer to let it float as it makesany future changes or repairs a lot easier. It also makes snapping the battery and top coverinto place a lot easier. If you follow the guide properly then there should be no possible wayfor it to short on anything.

See below for proper position.

Boost wiring

There are a lot of connections at this point. Just tackle it one at a time and you'll getthrough it.

With the boost in the proper position run the bare wire from the slider switch resistor andconnect to the ground on the boost. This connection will help the boost stay in positionwhile you do all the other connections.


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Wire the common black wire from the slide switch to the adjustment pin on the boost

Wire the mosfet drain to the resist wire just beyond the ground pin. I usually wire allremaining ground wires to this spot because I found it a lot easier than try to clump themall onto the boost ground pin.

Wire the atomizer ground black wire to to same location on the resist wire.


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Take the free red wire that is attached to the bat positive terminal (the one that is pointingtoward the boost) on the PCB and connect to the Vin post on the boost

Using a 3" red wire connect it to the Vout post.

Tin both sides of the schotty diode from the parts list

Note: The diode has 2 dots on own side and 1 dot on the other side. The side with 1 dot hasto be positioned so that the dot is facing the connection. If you put it in wrong you will notget power to your atomizer.

Cut and attach the red wire from the Vout to the 'in' side of the diode.

Cut and attach the red wire from the atomizer connection to the 'out' side of the diode.


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You can either protect the diode connect with shrink tube or tape. Since I usually test theunit power under load I just put some tape around the diode.


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Adding the capacitors

I dislike this part because you basically have to protect the capacitors and then stuff themin. I've tried running without the caps and you can see and hear the difference so Irecommend using them.

Prepare the first capacitor

Tin both sides of the capacitor

Cut a black and a red wire to 3/4" each, strip and tins both ends of each wire and attachone to each side of the capacitor. Keep in mind that the positive side of the cap has a redband on it so make sure the red wire goes on this side. Tantalum caps have a positive andnegative side. If you mix them up they will pop when you apply power.


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I protect the cap by taping a 2" piece of tape around the cap and then clipping the excess ofthe top.

I fit the cap in front of the boost chip and run the wires up.


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Connect the red wire to the Vin

Connect the black wire to the boost ground

Prepare the second cap the same way except using a longer black wire. The wire should be

just under 2" long and must reach from the ground on the boost to the back of the case.

I place this capacitor at the back of the mod near the fuel gauge board.

Connect the red wire to the Vout on the boost chip

Connect the black wire to the boost ground

Attaching the battery (LiMN)

Solder a thin strip of metal or a bat connector to the ends of the battery wires. Tape theconnectors to the battery. This will make it easy to swap batteries down the road when itfinally dies. You should be able to get over a year out of each battery even if you are apretty heavy vaper since the battery is not stressed during operation.

Attaching the battery (Li-ion)

If you went with the 2600 bat it will give you a hell of a lot of vape time per cycle and verylong life. You will have to grind off the 3 dimples on the negative end and solder the wiresstraight to the bat keeping the solder very flat to get this battery to fit. If you haven'tsoldered to Li-ion batteries before, then use the LiMN batteries instead.


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Important: Regardless of the battery you use, once soldered make absolutely sure youcover both ends of the battery completely with insulating tape before you set the battery in

place.

At this point I usually run tests. By placing the voltmeter probes (positive on the atty centerhole) and negative on the body you should have no voltage when the pushbutton is not

pressed. Take voltage readings for each of the slide settings with the pushbutton pressed.

The readings are approximate and won't show true under load voltage this way (they will behigher) but it will give you the assurance that the mod is working and that the voltage ischanging properly as the slider position is changed.

Place the battery into position and tuck the bat leads down.

At this point you should be able to attach an atomizer and vape test it.

Preparing the top case

Dremel off the tabs and ridges shown in the picture. As with the bottom of the case, becareful not to let the dremel chuck touch the body. Clean off any excess bits beforecontinuing.


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Attach the top of the case. I usually set the front in (the side with the test button and slider)and then slowly set it down. If you are having problems fitting the body on, check for highpoints on the boost chip solder. If your solder sticks ip too high it will interfere with the caseclosing. Reduce the height of the solder and retry. The case should snap into position.

Put back the 4 body screws.

Normally I vape the mod for a bit just to ensure its all working and to reward myself forgetting this far. One more step and we're home free.

Attaching the pushbutton cap

Mix a small amount of epoxy and let it get really tacky. Put a bit of epoxy in the bottom holeof the pushbutton cap. Do not overdo it. If you gob it in and it runs down the button you willget to experience the joy of replacing the button.

When the small bit of epoxy in the cap is a bit sticky, gently push and twist the cap on thepushbutton post. Turn the mod upside down to prevent an epoxy leaking down the post andlet it stay that way unless the epoxy is set and there is no way it can flow.


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Note: I painted this body prior to building. I have since learned not to paint them. The PGsoftens the paint and it wears off. Bad idea :)

I usually plug into a computer to test the charger while the cap finishes setting. After about30 minutes it is safe to start vaping away.

Congratulations...the mod is complete. Enjoy :)

Extra information.

If liquid accumulates on your atty connection it can cause a very weak short. The same canhappen in the atty itself. If the fuel gauge lights or the mod stops working, then there is agood chance one of the protection circuits has kicked on. Plugging the unit into a USB portand unplugging will reset the protection. If it continues to happen then clean the connector


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and change the atomizer and see if it fixes the problem.

Alternate Builds

There has been requests for alternate builds. Recently someone asked for a 5v build. Thefollowing schematics are the changes required to remove the selector switch and just have

it function as a single voltage unit.

Documents

Name Fist Pack v2 Variable Power Version