MY USA Nov 09 Maximum Yield

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SuStainabilitybuzz Word or Hype?

cHill out WitH Water cHillerS

Boost Fruit ProductionThe Missing Link

Got PeStS?

Win biG! Grow biG!ENTER ONLINE maximumyield.com

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http://www.aurorainnovations.com

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From the Editor

Letters to the Editor

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Ask Erik

MAX Facts

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Growing for Health

Beginner’s Corner

Tips and Tricks

Green Thumb Gardening

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FEATURES

DEPARTMENTS

november 2009CONTENTS

Berry Bonanza: Growing Indoor Strawberriesby Dr. Lynette Morgan

Pre-Veg: Your Missing Link to a Bigger Harvestby Erik Biksa

Food Pyramid Production - Part IIby Lee McCall

Back to the Future: Organicsby Luis Bartolo

Climate Controllers: Calibration for Indoor Gardening Success by Isabelle Lemay agr. and Mélissa Léveillé

Using Conductivity to Control Nutrient Concentrationby Andrew Taylor

Complete Nutrition - Part Iby Evan Folds

Chill Out: Water Chillers Explainedby Stephen Keen with Pat King

Sun and Soil: Natural Greenhouse Growing Life in the Winter Soilby Roland Evans

Sustainability: Buzz Word or Legitimate Agenda?by Matt Geschke

Pest Control: Organics, Chemicals and Biological Controlsby Matt LeBannister

9MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

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10 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

We have an action packed issue for you with 12 of our professional writers providing you with some great “meat and potatoes” to help you grow! From conductivity and nutrient concentration to climate controller calibration, to growing a berry bonanza and really looking at sustainability and the future of organics, our writers give you the skinny on what you have been asking for.

FROM THEeditor jessica raymond

Lee McCall graduated from Johnson and Wales University with a concentration in Culinary Arts. Culinary school opened the door to research and work with hydroponics and organic production. Currently, Lee attends business school in Denver and focuses on continuing advancements with Maximum Yield and indoor gardening technology.

Roland Evans is lifelong gardener and CEO of Organic Bountea. As a student and teacher of Holistic Systems, he actively promotes an ecological approach to cultivation using the Soil Food Web. Trained as a psychologist, Roland also writes on the interface between gardening and personal growth.

contributors

Evan Folds is president of Progressive Gardens, a natural approach land care company, and Progress Earth (www.progressearth.com). With a degree in biology and religion, Evan’s interests include making sense of food production and bringing awareness to such topics as empty food, municipal water fluoridation and spiritual intolerance.

Jessica Raymond, [email protected]

Isabelle Lemay is in charge of the technical support, customer service and research and development at Nova Biomatique Inc. (www.igrowing.com), makers of the PLUG’N’GROW climate controllers. She is an agronomist and holds a master’s degree in soil and environment studies, with a specialization in greenhouse production.

Mélissa Léveillé holds a license in communication, writing and multimedia. She is the newest member of the Nova Biomatique Inc. Team (www.igrowing.com), makers of the PLUG’N’GROW climate controllers. She is responsible for Nova Biomatique Inc.’s communications.

Andrew Taylor is the manager of Flairform (www.flairform.com) – an Australian-based manufacturing company. As an analytical chemist with qualifications in plant function and nutrition, he has over 13 years experience in product research and development, and also writes extensively on hydroponic growing techniques.

Matt Geschke has a B.S. in biology from Baldwin Wallace College. He also completed an environmental geology degree from the University of Akron and received his M.S. in 2002. Matt is an adjunct professor at Kent State University and is the research and development director at Sure to Grow.

Stephen Keen has been an indoor gardening hobbyist for nearly 10 years. His personal successes with his garden led him to want to bring new ideas, mainly water-cooling, to the mainstream, which led to the founding of Hydro Innovations.

Matt LeBannister works at Homegrown Hydroponics, the manufacturer of the DNF line of premium nutrients and enhancement products. Matt manages the retail store at Homegrown’s head office in Toronto and as of late has been traveling the trade show circuit as their resident expert.

Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort. Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. Lynette is a partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants and has authored five hydroponic technical books. Visit www.suntec.co.nz/consultants.htm and www.suntec.co.nz/books.htm for more information.

Erik Biksa holds a diploma in agriculture with majors in fertilizer sciences and crop production. Erik has amassed over 18 years of indoor gardening experience and intensive research. Since first appearing in Maximum Yield in 1999, the “Ask Erik” column and numerous articles have reached growers throughout the world.

Jose Luis Pinheiro Bartolo is the president of Biobizz Worldwide Inc., a global leader in the production of hydroponic organic fertilizers and soil mixtures. He is passionate about the organic market and providing the highest service and perfectionism that comes direct from his heart and is projected to all aspects of his life

Yes, this issue is all about the goods, the gear and the grow – your grow! Featuring 25+ all new products we give you just what you need to improve and expand your garden. Be sure to let the stores know you saw it first in Maximum Yield.

Our first E-Newsletter has been sent and has been receiving great feedback. Reaching you first with the latest events, contests, products, reader tips and more, the E-News can be waiting for you each month in your inbox. If you haven’t already, sign up for the E-News at maximumyield.com/newsletter.php.November is the month for thanks and we would like to take

this opportunity to thank all of our loyal readers, retail shops and advertisers for their continuous support; together we are all working towards a better balanced and harmonic way to grow healthier food and in doing so a healthier environment.Happy Thanksgiving from everyone at Maximum Yield.

http://www.foxfarmfertilizer.com


LETTERS TOthe editor

Maximum Yield reserves the right to edit for brevity.

We want to hear from you!Write us at:Maximum Yield Publications Inc.2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9or Email us at: [email protected]

A Tale of GenerosityHello and great job on Maximum Yield! I read it every month and, unfortunately for me, I tend to give it away a lot. I wanted to ask if there was a way to find out what issue the article about GMOs was in? It’s hard for me to find in your archives as there is no search function. Thank you in advance for your assistance!

Toni Genaro

The issue of Genetically Modified Organisms has been noted in a number of featured Maximum Yield articles, but I believe the one you are looking for is Evan Fold’s The Potential of Hydroponics found in the September issue of USA or under Magazine Issues on maximumyield.com. Stay tuned for a search feature on our website, coming soon.

Can’t Get EnoughDo you have back issues of your magazines available on DVD? How much would that be to purchase?

Roy Halls

While Maximum Yield magazines are not available as back issues, we provide a full library on our website dating back 11+ years. Visit www.maximumyield.com and click on Maximum Yield issues. This will take you to the archived issues of Maximum Yield USA and the rest of the MY editions.

"It’s like comparing boats to cars."

These are a few of my Favorite ThingsI loved the saffron article by Dr. Lynette Morgan in August Maximum Yield USA; I even ordered myself some bulbs. Come Clone with Us by Kevin Dunlop came at the best possible time for me because I was having issues rooting lavender and rosemary cuttings. Of course, the rest of the articles were also very informative but those were my favorites.

Rex Ravs

"We all love the

information that

you folks have

to offer."

Props to the TeamI went to the Indoor Gardening Expo recently in San Francisco - WOW! It was quite an experience. I met so many different vendors; I was completely in shock. The knowledge and passion they have for the field is quite impressive. Advanced, moderate and new growers can all learn from attending these events. I look forward to next year’s events. Keep up the great work!

Chris West

Retailing InspirationI own a retail store in Northern California, and we carry your magazine. We all love the information that you folks have to offer and

find we are getting rid of them as fast as we order them.

I would like to recommend more features on American retail stores. It’s nice to hear what

others like us are working on in their area of the country. Thank you and keep up the good work.

Michael McLean

You can look forward to our new column “Talking Shop” in upcoming issues of Maximum Yield. Serving to inspire readers and retail stores alike, Talking Shop will feature hydroponic retailers across the USA and their initiatives to bring hydroponics to growers around the world.

Shine a Light on MeDo plants require high lumens as with H.I.D and HPS lighting? Will the lower lumen 300 LED create the same results as 600 watt HPS?

Danny Presley

Referring to a 300 watt LED versus a 600 watt HPS lighting system, which one would yield better depends upon a few things. However, as a short answer, it's more likely that if you took the best 600 watt HPS set-up and put it against the best 300 watt LED set-up, you would likely find the LED system would provide a higher yield. Again though, many factors are conducive as it’s like comparing boats to cars.

Erik Biksa

http://www.superthrive.com


PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER - Jim Jesson

GENERAL MANAGER - Don Moores

BUSINESS MANAGER - Linda Jesson

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EDITOR - Jessica Raymond [email protected]

ADVERTISING SALES 250.729.2677

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USA DISTRIBUTIONAurora Innovations

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VOLUME 10 – NUMBER 8 November 2009

Maximum Yield is published monthly byMaximum Yield Publications Inc.

2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687

No part of this magazine may be reproducedwithout permission from the publisher.

If undeliverable please return to the address above.

The views expressed by columnists are a personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the Editor.

Publication Agreement Number 40739092

Tell us what you think at [email protected]. We’d love to hear from you.

Coming upon the Web

Speed Read

“Experienced growers know that they achieve their best results when the crop starts strong with no interruptions

or “hiccups” through the development of the plants, starting early in the propagation/rooting phase.”

LateSt neWS• Through a non-profit organization known as AmpleHarvest.

com, growers can locate food pantries in their

community and share their excess bounty of

produce with neighbors in need.

• The Maldive Islands recently vowed to

become the first carbon-neutral nation

by 2020 by using coconuts as fertilizer to

capture carbon.

• The Quite Contrary Urban After School Farm

educates children on growing and selling

produce, recycling and other eco-friendly topics.

Stay ConneCted

Join Maximum Yield on Facebook

(facebook.com/MaximumYield) and participate

in discussions with other readers on the topics

that matter the most to you. Stay updated on

upcoming Indoor Gardening Expos, post photos

and be the first to hear about exclusive online reader contests.

1. Maximum Yield’s all-new E-News is available monthly. Featuring the industry’s latest news, tips and tricks for indoor growing and even a reader-inspired section “Listen In,” you don’t want to miss out on what E-News has to offer. Sign up at maximumyield.com/newsletter.php

2. In his latest video, Sure To Grow’s chief grower Matt Geschke demonstrates how to assemble a mini DWC cloner. He is joined by Jeremy Borger.

3. As if you weren’t cold enough, Stephen Keen discusses the reasons you should add a water chiller to your grow room basics.

ONI N D O O R G A R D E N I N G

-Erik Biksa-

http://www.eyehortilux.com

http://www.atami.com


Do you have a question for Erik? Forward it to [email protected] with the words “Ask Erik” in the subject line, and your answer will be printed in an upcoming edition.

ASKerik

rockwool

cococoir


Usually, it’s okay to mix soilless mixes from indoor gardens into outdoor soils. Typically, used naturally-occurring growth mediums like peat and coco from indoor gardens will improve the texture and introduce some beneficial nutrients, enzymes, vitamins, amino acids, carbohydrates and beneficial microbes into outdoor garden soils. You should allow the soil to “assimilate” the used growth medium through winter months.Also keep in mind that if you are using products that contain

strong plant growth regulators (hormones), this may create some problems. Once introduced into the soil, some of these substances may take a very long time to break down or reach levels that are dilute enough not to effect growth. Remember that you don’t want flowering hormones interfering with the vegetative growth of your garden plants.It is important to dispose of growth mediums that contain

growth hormones in a conscientious manner. If used indoor gardening soils are mixed with a proportionately much larger volume of garden soil, for example 100:1, the effects of any residuals should be minimal.Growers who re-use organic growth mediums often report that

they get healthier plants and bigger yields with each successive crop in the recycled growth medium. When re-using growth mediums, it is a good idea to add a little extra perlite, earth

I have one highly productive indoor garden and have been trying different media over my short experience indoors. I am currently using soilless mixes such as coco, sunshine mix and other coco-based mixes but have used rockwool in the past. My question is how can I dispose of such media in an environmentally-friendly manner? I can't use the backyard as the dog has destroyed everything I once grew outdoors! Please help.

Thanks in advance for the great advice!

Sean Kennedy

worm castings and lime (if applicable) to re-charge the growth medium between crops. Digestive enzymes and microbial inoculants can also assist in the process.Alternatively, organic based mediums may be incinerated, as

in the case of Sure To Grow and SteadyGRO products. Sure To Grow can be cleanly burned in a biomass furnace. The preferred method of disposal is to remove the subaerial biomass and leave only the root mass behind. The remaining root mass should be allowed to dry out completely and then can be taken to your local plastic recycler. For greenhouses with a bio mass system, SteadyGRO slab media and the entire SteadyGRO block unit can be incinerated for energy purposes. With SteadyGRO, it can be ground up from its original form to a mass of less than 11 per cent of its original volume. Ground up or compacted, the media and left over root volume can be safely placed in your trash bin.If you are dealing with large volumes of material, you may be

able to come to some type of arrangement with a landscape company that can use your spent material as fill or incorporate it into beds, outdoor soils, etc.

Highest Regards, Erik Biksa

perlite

MY

soillessalternatives

http://www.botanicare.net


Sun Curve Challenge Encourages Efficient Food Growth

hydroponic news, tips and triviaMAXfacts

The Quite Contrary Urban After School Farm recently introduced in Carrboro, NC offers lessons in horticulture, recycling and etiquette to school-aged children. Registered children aged six to 11 are picked up by a “walking bus” and taken to the farm where they participate in a wide range of activities geared towards education on growing and selling produce, recycling and other eco-friendly topics.Quite Contrary is a café/institution that

supports local food and crafts. The food grown on the farm will be sold at a kid’s farmer’s market on the last Saturday of the month. The program even offers discounts to kids who are picked up and dropped off car-free.(Source: http://quitecontraryfarm.blogspot.com)

After School Program Aims to Teach of Food and Farming

Skip Harvest with Fridge GardeningInspired by the array of innovative growing spaces

cropping up everywhere, Cho Woong designed a crisper-sized garden that allows one to skip the whole harvesting part of gardening. Having your garden simply grow in your fridge means it is ready for picking when you are. Realistically, produce grown in a fridge garden would not survive due to lack of lighting and the low temperature.However, produce has been

grown in stranger places including newspaper stands and telephone poles to name a few.(Source: www.treehugger.com)

Evolution not a One-Way Street Research Proves

Scientists from the John Innes Centre and University of St. Andrews in Birmingham have identified a key gene that was transferred from a Sicilian plant into a close relative in Britain.The researchers unravelled the

history of an Italian interloper, a close relative of the common British weed groundsel, that was first brought to the UK 300 years ago. This region of DNA modifies the flowers, making the weed more attractive to pollinators. The results demonstrate how natural genetic exchanges can allow important traits to be transferred between species.This goes against the typical view of evolution as

a one-way street in which each species evolves as a separate, independent genetic lineage. Hybridisation between closely related forms may allow evolutionary cross-talk in which valuable genes can be exchanged and preserved. The result is greater flexibility and potential for diversity during evolution.(Source: Norwich BioScience Institutes. "Sicilian Plant Gene Enters

British Genetic Language." ScienceDaily 25 November 2008. 9 July 2009

<http://www.sciencedaily.com /releases/2008/11/081113181158.htm>)

Groundsel

As part of the Sun Curve Challenge, teachers and students are being challenged to produce new Open Educational Resources (OER) materials and incorporate green design thinking into the classroom.

The competition focuses on contemporary issues in environmental science, renewable energy, agriculture and technology using hands-on methods and open-source curriculum for science inquiry and design innovation. The goal is to inspire and educate students using alternative energy sources and sustainable growing systems.Sun Curve is a

system that combines hydroponic, organic food production with aquaculture, renewable materials and solar energy in a self-contained laboratory system. It was created by INKA, a socially conscious company dedicated to working on the some of the world’s most pressing problems including food production in difficult environments utilizing micro farming technology and vertical hydroponics and aquaponics growing systems.Students will be designing and building working models

for an affordable and renewable way to grow food and other useful plants.(Source: http://wiki.oercommons.org)



Earlier this year, the Maldive Islands vowed to become the first carbon neutral nation by 2020. Their plan includes using coconuts as fertilizer to capture the carbon.The scheme involves using coconut shells to create

biochar, which would be used as an organic fertilizer. Assisting the Maldives in this plan is UK-based Carbon Gold who claims that biochar is ‘carbon negative’ and that it’s an effective way to remove carbon from the atmosphere while simultaneously eliminating the need to import fertilizer. The coconut biochar is also believed to increased soil fertility.Some feel it is a short term solution, with no guarantee

that the coconut biochar will keep the carbon buried in soil, but this intriguing experiment will allow an island to cut back on its fertilizer imports and cut carbon.(Source: www.earth-stream.com)

Coconuts Part of Plan to Cut Carbon Emissions

In support of the non-profit organization Hydro for Hunger, Humboldt Nutrients donated all of the proceeds from the sales of their t-shirts and hats at the San Francisco Indoor Gardening Expo. Their contribution totaled over $1,200. Hydro for Hunger also sold nearly 50 copies of their Easy-Gro DVD training course, which

generated nearly $1,000 in revenue. A special thank you to Charles Watson from the Grow Store in Colorado who personally donated $200 and to West Coast Gardener

for their $250 donation.The donations collected will be enough to pay for one half of the classroom at the new training

facility in the United States.Thank you once again to

everyone for their help.

Humboldt Nutrients Supports Hydro for Hunger

http://www.smartpots.com

http://www.pllight.com



Australia-based hydroponics specialists Hydro Masta Pty Ltd. has been awarded a contract to supply a 2,000 plant hydroponic lettuce system for the island of Futuna in the pacific. Funds have been made available jointly by AUSAID and assistance from the Sous Prefecture of Futuna, under the aegis of the Project of Sustainable Agriculture in the Pacific (DSAP). The objective of the DSAP is to improve food security and the livelihoods of target farm families in the Pacific.As the project develops in the coming months Hydro

Masta will be updating hydromasta.com.auwith pictures and progress reports of the installation and follow up details of its operation.(Source: www.hydromasta.com.au)

Project Futuna Gets Go Ahead

Through a non-profit organization known as Ample Harvest, growers can now waste less and help families in need simultaneously. AmpleHarvest.org was created by Gary Oppenheimer who was troubled by the sheer volume of fresh produce that gardeners were taking to the trash.Ample Harvest unites growers with food pantries across

North America, providing an outlet for the excess produce that goes into the trash or the compost. AmpleHarvest.orglists food pantries in their central directory so that gardeners can share their fresh produce and help diminish hunger in America.According to the US Department of Agriculture, well over

one billion pounds of food gets thrown away per year. Now with AmpleHarvest.org gardeners can share some of their bounty with neighbors who do not have access to fresh produce, and help lessen world hunger.(Source: www.ampleharvest.org)

Growers Team up with Food Pantries to Fight Hunger

http://www.continentalfan.com



hydroponic news, tips and triviaMAXfactsThe Orange Country town of Carrboro in North Carolina

hosted an “urban farm tour,” demonstrating to residents the benefits of growing their own food. As part of the annual regional farm tour, this addition showcased community gardens and private growers as well as workshops on lasagna bed preparation and honey harvesting.Educating the community on new and sustainable

methods of feeding the world was the tour’s main goal, hoping to inspire the potential for a more productive and tasty urban environment. The tour proved that community farming is more than just a hobby, and can be an element of everyone’s means of gaining access to food.In addition to the education provided, the event was used

to raise funds for an urban framing tool library.(Source: www.carrborogreenspace.org)

Carrboro, NC Hosts “Urban Farm Tour”

An international group of biological scientists have uncovered new

research on how the plant hormone, gibberellin, is crucial in controlling

the growth of plant roots.Gibberellin controls how root cells elongate as roots grow; for the first

time scientists can describe how this hormone also

regulates the number of cells in the root in order to control root growth.

The research shows that mutant plants that do not produce the hormone are unable to increase their cell production rate and the size of the root meristem, the zone of cell proliferation.The research was headed by Dr. Susan Ubeda-Tomás

and Professor Malcolm Bennett of the Centre for Plant Integrative Biology, in collaboration with scientists in Nottingham, Cambridge, Edinburgh, Spain, Belgium and Sweden.This information will be necessary to address food

security and produce better biofuels.(www.sciencedaily.com)

Hormone Clue to Root Growth

http://www.excelair.ca

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

http://www.sunleaves.com


On August 29 A Fertile World, Humboldt County’s premier agricultural supply shop, opened its third retail location in the historic town of Arcata, Ca. The atmosphere was that of a neighborhood block party bringing hundreds of customers, spectators and members of the community into the store to enjoy the grandest of Grand Openings. A Fertile World, LLC was honored to have 15

different industry leading companies in attendance including representatives from Sunlight Supply, Hydrofarm, B.W.G.S, Humboldt Nutrients, Lumatek, Smart Pots and R&M Supply.Humboldt Nutrients, LLC, proud sister company

of A Fertile World, sponsors local boy hero, pro freestyle motocross rider, Julian Dusseau. Julian convinced his promoters to bring the ramps out

for the Grand Opening. Customers and industry reps were treated to a show as Julian performed back flips and many other insane tricks on his motorcycle, in addition to a free BBQ, raffle give-a-ways and huge discounts.By approaching the store opening as an all inclusive party and inviting the community to attend, A Fertile World –

Arcata was able to present itself as an asset to the local community and a fun place to be.(Source: www.afertileworld.com, www.humboldtnutrients.com)


MY

Making Store Openings into Community Events

http://www.deepwaterinnovationcs.com

http://www.biobizz.com

http://www.hygrozyme.com

http://www.hygrozyme.com


PRODUCTspotlight ask for these exciting new products at your favorite indoor gardening store.

Atmosphere Launches the New 14’’ V-Series

Nature’s Solution Sea Kelp is a powdered form of sea kelp that is truly water soluble. The Ascophyllum Nodosuum (sea kelp) has been extracted with a non-chemical based system with no toxic residue. This product was freshly harvested and processed from the cold coastal waters off Iceland in the North Atlantic Sea. Use with Nature’s Solution Compost Tea, Ancient Humate and Mycorrhizae for best results. Use on all indoor and outdoor plants. Mix with water, spray on leaves and plant or put directly on soil. Use one tablespoon of water-soluble sea kelp powder for every five gallons of water and apply directly to soil, water or plant surfaces. Apply to gardens, vegetables, trees, vines and lawn. Kelp is a nutrient that feeds micro-organisms. Approved for organic production, verified to USDA-NOP organic standards. Available from local indoor gardening retailers.

Nature’s Solution Sea Kelp

The new V-14XL, part of the Vortex Powerfans V-Series line is a 14 inch inline fan equipped with a mixed flow impeller allowing more air volume than any other comparable impeller design. The V-14XL delivers 2905 CFM at 1500 RPM. Similar to the 12 inch and 16 inch V-Series, this new size will deliver high performance and quiet operations. Furthermore, the heavy gauge steel casing with the hammertone powder coat finish makes it more sound absorbing and rust-proof. As with all of the Vortex Powerfans, the V-14XL allows easy duct hook-up with the extended collar and lip. For more information contact your local grow shop.

http://www.mavericksun.com

http://www.ezclone.com



Boost fruit flavor and aroma while you increase yields with Botanicare Sweet, now available in a formulation that allows you to add the delicious taste of grapes to whatever you grow! When used during the vegetative stage, its combination of carbohydrates, organic acids and vitamins aid plants in making an easy transition to the flowering stage. Continue using it through the fruiting stage to see your plants keep the correct balance between photosynthesis and

respiration, leading to sturdy stem growth to support a multitude of flowers and fruit! Ask for Botanicare Sweet Grape at your local grow shop.

Add the Divine Goodness of Grape to Your Garden

Merlin-Garden Pro Pump Gets Upgraded

Hydro-Logic has improved the popular Merlin-Garden Pro pressure booster pump. The pump is needed when the pressure entering the Merlin-GP reverse osmosis filter is less than 40 PSI. By boosting the pressure to 65

PSI, the pump allows the Merlin-GP to flow faster and produce more water per day. We

have upgraded the armature components to allow the pump to run for longer periods before it thermal cycles. The original pump had a thermal cycle switch, which protected the pump from overheating. The pump would shut down for a short period of time when it got too hot from continuously running. Now those run times have been extended due to the upgraded parts. We have also added an external heat sink to help pull heat away from the pump. The heat fins snap directly onto the pump and enable it to help you produce the purest water possible. Contact your local hydroponics retailer for more details. Pure water’s not magic. It’s logic.


http://www.humboldtnutrients.com


PRODUCTspotlight

The Oxy-Gen generator outperforms previous methods of aeration, due to increased levels of saturation.

Oxy-Gen offers:• more sunlight – supplement with HID lighting• food – formulated high-quality nutrients• CO2 – injection of CO2 gas, CO2 generators• climate control – ventilation fans, air conditioners,

humidifiers, de-humidifiers, heaters• water – filters, RO units

Plants breathe oxygen through their roots. As the water warms, oxygen levels decrease, making oxygen supplementation necessary. The Oxy-Gen alleviates this problem by raising oxygen levels. The results – healthier water, increased oxygen levels, increased fertilizer uptake, faster growing and larger producing plants. This is all accomplished with one or less amps of electricity, in nutrient tanks up to 400 gallons.

For more complete information about this innovative new

technology, please contact your local indoor gardening retailer.

The Missing Link – Oxy-Gen Generator Now Available from Greenstar

Brix Plus is a unique formula designed to achieve maximum yields. Scientifically designed using only the highest quality ingredients, Brix Plus is readily available for direct absorption into your favorite flower or herb.This 100 per cent totally organic

product contains the following naturally derived active ingredients: amino acids, carbohydrates, vitamins, triacantinol, enzymes and proven biological enhancers.

Brix Plus:• improves color• improves taste• improves yield• is a ready to use formula

Available in one quart, one gallon, 2.2 gallons and five gallons. For more information on Brix+ visit your local hydroponics retail store.

Introducing Brix+ from Green Planet Wholesale

http://www.oliviassolutions.com

http://www.humboldtnutrients.com



Continued on page 132

Horti-Control Introduces the LF Series Ballast

The new Nutrifield Elements is a premium four part nutrient specifically optimized for grow and bloom phases.It has been scientifically formulated by Dr. Mohammad Dakakni using

pharmaceutical grade salts. Nutrifield Elements contain each of the 16 key macro-, secondary and micro-elements required for plant nutrition and also contain essential amino acids, enzymes and natural plant stimulants.Two years of scientific research is contained in every bottle. Available in one

quart, one gallon and four gallons.Visit your nearest indoor gardening retailer to learn more.

The Brand New Elements is Here

Horti-Control is happy to introduce the LF series ballast output controller, aka the flip flop, to the market. The LF series has been sold through select retailers the past four years. The LF series allows users to switch the output of the HID ballast between two bulbs, without having to power off the ballast! The LF series features plug and play connectors, and an external timer to avoid burn out issues. The Horti-Control LF series flip flop is available in two, four, six, eight 10 and 20 ballast models. All models feature a 15 foot piggy back trigger cable, allowing the user to daisy chain multiple units and control them all with one timer! Ask for the LF Series Ballast now at your local hydroponics retail store.

http://www.realwaterus.com

http://www.suretogrow.com

Growing Indoor Strawberries

by Dr. Lynette Morgan

One of the most exciting challenges of indoor gardening is producing out of season fruits and vegetables. Strawberries are not only colorful, delicious and brimming with healthy compounds, they are also productive plants that yield a surprising abundance of fruit for their compact size. What is even more rewarding is, unlike many other fruiting plants, strawberries can be developing plump berries within a couple of months of planting out chilled plugs or runners. Nowadays large fruited, hybrid strawberry plants can even be raised from seed, a real bonus for hydroponic growers who

may be hesitant about introducing soil grown runners and plugs into their

system. Strawberry plants, however, have a somewhat interesting physiology when it

comes to flowering and fruiting and will need a little pollination assistance indoors, but the

rewards are well worth the effort.


Berry B nanza

"Strawberries have always been exclusively vegetatively

propagated from runners produced in autumn by

mature plants."

Indoor growers using artificial light have the ability to provide any day length and can usually manipulate temperature to a reasonable degree as well; however, reducing day length over several weeks just to trigger short day strawberry types into flowering is not that practical. The better approach is to select day neutral strawberry varieties by buying in pre-chilled runners or plugs (termed ‘frigo’ or ‘pre-conditioned’ plants), ready for planting out. This way flowering and fruiting will occur within a few weeks and no time will be wasted under artificial lighting giving several weeks of short days to non-productive plants. In some regions pre-conditioned runners or plugs are available almost year round, however, since this type of planting stock is raised pretty much exclusively for outdoor gardeners, they are often only available in spring. Indoor growers, therefore, may need to consider raising their

own planting stock if berries are to be produced out of season. Strawberry

plants are relatively easy to propagate and recently there has been the

development of large fruiting types that

can be raised from seed.

"Hydroponic growers typically buy in either chilled runners or plugs; plant these in a warm environment

and they will flower within a few weeks."


Young, NFT-grown strawberry plant in the early stages of flowering.

Strawberry typesStrawberry varieties fall roughly into two different types – the

short day and day neutral types. Most of the outdoor grown strawberry types are short day varieties; they will initiate flowers under short day lengths (less then 14 hours) and cool conditions such as occur in winter in temperate climates, and will then flower and fruit as conditions warm up in spring. Day neutral varieties are commonly used by greenhouse and hydroponic producers as they can be manipulated to crop out of season provided warmth and sufficient light is provided. Day neutral strawberry varieties are induced to flower and fruit when temperatures are high enough and these plants can be given an ‘artificial chilling’ period to initiate flowers. Varieties of ‘day neutral’ strawberries include, Selva, Brighton, Seascape, Aptos, Yolo, Diamante, Tristar and Sarian, however, many more exist as plant breeders develop improved varieties over time. Hydroponic growers typically buy in either chilled runners or plugs which have had a period of four to eight under refrigeration (34 – 37°F); plant these in a warm environment and they will flower within a few weeks. Smaller growers may chill their own planting stock by wrapping the clean runners in damp paper and plastic and placing in a refrigerator for six weeks. Either way, the artificial chilling under refrigeration tricks the plant’s physiology into thinking winter has occurred and once they are planted out into the warmth and light, the plant will resume its spring growth pattern of foliage growth, followed by flowering and fruiting.


Strawberry propagationOne huge advantage for indoor and hydroponic strawberry

growers has been the recent development of large fruiting, commercial quality strawberry cultivars which can be raised from seed. In the past, strawberries have always been exclusively vegetatively propagated from runners produced in autumn by mature plants. Although strawberry seeds (those small brown seeds attached to the outside of the fruit), have always been able to germinate, the resulting seedlings were not ‘true to type’ and often had poor quality fruit and low vigor plants. Breeders in the Netherlands have developed hybrid strawberry types which can be grown from seed and will fruit in their first season (another development as strawberry seedlings can be quite slow to grow to fruiting size). A suitable seed raised variety is ‘Sarian F1’ (Johnny Seeds), or ‘Temptation’ (TM seeds) although no doubt we will be seeing more varieties later on. This means that hydroponic growers don’t need to be reliant on commercially propagated runners which are often dug from the field and contaminated with soil and the pathogens this carries, or by nursery grown plugs, also produced in growing media which can also cause problems in solution culture

Berry Bonanza: Growing Indoor Strawberries

Healthy young strawberry seedlings.

"Breeders in the Netherlands have developed hybrid strawberry types which can be grown from seed and will fruit in their first season."

Seeds can be collected from the outer surface of berries for sowing, however, these often result in poor quality plants. Hybrid seeds, however, can be purchased now for growers wishing to propagate strawberry plants.

http://www.growgps.com

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systems. Strawberry plants are particularly prone to a number of nasty root rot pathogens which can be carried on planting stock such as runners originating from fields and a number of hydroponic growers have become unstuck because of this. Raising strawberry plants from seed in your own system means

Strawberries can produce a surprising amount of fruit for a small and compact plant.

"Strawberries can be grown well in

NFT, aeroponics and various modifications on these systems."


Harvesting at the `table ripe’ stage will give the best flavored berries.

that hygiene practices, clean growing media and isolation from other strawberry plants can limit the diseases that often cause yield losses in outdoor systems.

Strawberries can also be propagated from runners – small daughter plants that form on the end of long stolons usually produced towards the end of the cropping season. These will root easily if pinned into a damp growing media or can be clipped from the stolon and rooted under mist like any other clone. Runners or plants purchased in a dormant state (usually available for sale in fall, winter and spring), can be held under refrigeration for as long as four to five months before planting out, allowing the season of fruit producing to be manipulated. However, the longer the plant is under refrigeration, the greater the chance of it losing viability, so only strong, well developed plants or runners should be given the extended chilling storage.

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Planting outChilled day neutral runners or plugs can

be planted out year round and will flower and fruit provided conditions are warm enough. Strawberries prefer temperatures in the range 72/65°F (day/night) when flowering, although they withstand temperatures as high as 79/72°F and

still crop well. High temperatures above 86°F start to cause problems with pollen viability and fruit set and growth ceases once temperatures become higher then 91°F. Day neutrals crop well under longer days (16 hours) with good light intensity – they require more light than lettuce, but less than a large fruiting tomato or pepper, and CO

2 enrichment to levels of

600 ppm will boost growth and yields.Strawberry plants can be grown in a

number of systems, however, the crown of the plant is particularly sensitive to moisture and crown/root rot is the number one cause of strawberry plant deaths. Beginners would be best advised to try their first strawberry crop in a free draining media based system such as perlite or coconut fiber/perlite (50/50) combination, or even rockwool cubes provided they are well drained. This way the plant can be easily positioned with the crown of the plant just above the surface of the media and the free draining


Strawberries benefit from foliar fertilization, particularly when showing signs of chlorosis.

Strawberry flowers are self fertile but benefit from some pollination assistance when grown indoors.

nature of the substrate will assist with preventing over saturation. Drip irrigation systems are favored as ebb and flow can cause salt build-up around the crown which also leads to problems. Strawberries

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Care and maintenanceStrawberry plants don’t require

a lot of maintenance – as the plants develop a lot of foliage, the older leaves should be removed as they age and discolor to assist with air movement up and under the plant’s crown. In the first few weeks of growth any early flowers should be removed until the plant has developed sufficient foliage to support fruit growth (generally at least eight mature leaves). Once flowers have formed, they will need pollination assistance. Outdoors bees and insects are responsible for strawberry pollination and although the flowers are self fertile, they benefit from some assistance when grown in greenhouses or indoors. Commercial hydroponic growers use large ‘air blowers’ which direct a moderate blast of air over the flowers each day – this is sufficient to release the pollen and allow it drop from stamen onto the receptacle of each flower. Indoor growers can carry out the same process with a hair dryer (on cold setting) or by tapping the flowers.

can be grown well in NFT, aeroponics and various modifications on these systems – however, the plants need to be well supported so as not to slip down into the nutrient flow and only ‘clean’ plants – i.e. not those coming from soil, should be used due to the root rot pathogens that could be introduce into the system. Solution warming is useful at 68°F particularly when starting new plants which have recently been given a chilling treatment.


Vertical systems like the `Hydro Stacker’ are great for strawberry crops in small areas.

Because of the small and compact size of the plants, strawberries can yield well in vertical systems provided there is sufficient light.

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Once pollination and fruit set has occurred, any fruit that looks to be misshapen (as a result of inadequate pollination), should be removed as soon as possible so that only perfect fruit develop. Strawberries have the tendency, under good growing conditions, to develop ‘trusses’ of many flowers and set high numbers of fruit in ‘flushes,’ so some flower or fruit thinning may be necessary if very large fruit are to be produced.

Hydroponic strawberries and flavorStrawberry flavor can be manipulated and indoor hydroponic

growers have the perfect opportunity to do this. High light, warmth and good leaf area (as occurs outdoors in summer grown crops) is essential for sugar development in the berries. However, with hydroponics, attention to nutrition also plays a role; good levels of potassium during the fruiting stage, and a moderately high EC (2.4 – 3.0) assist with flavor development and aromatics. Slight moisture stress also concentrates flavor in berries, however, this risks damaging the plants and use of EC control is a better management plant for hydroponics. Genetics also plays a significant role in flavor of strawberries and different varieties can vary considerably in their flavor profile and brix (sweetness levels). The variety ‘Seascape’ seems to give good flavor in many hydroponic systems, but growers might like to trial a few different types and taste the berries to determine which is going to give the highest quality berries.


Good pollination is required for large, uniform, and well shaped berries. A lack of pollination will cause misshaped fruit.

"Diseases such as Botrytis under high humidity, which can rot the fruit,

indicate that more air movement is required around the plants and venting of warm moist air should be increased."

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http://www.everestgardensupply.com


You can access all of Dr. Lynette Morgan's articles in our author archive on

www.maximumyield.com

MY

Pests and diseasesStrawberries can be prone to a number

of root rot pathogens which is why avoidance of soil grown runners and planting stock is the best option for starting a healthy indoor crop. Keeping oxygen levels high in the root zone or nutrient solution also assist strawberry plants in keeping the root zone healthy. Plants also benefit from foliar fertilizer products in the first few weeks after chilling treatment while the new root system is regenerating and sprays of products containing iron and trace elements throughout the life of the crop is also recommended. Pests include the usual indoor culprits – mites can be a problem when humidity is low; aphids and thrips may also infest plants. Diseases such as Botrytis under high humidity, which can rot the fruit, indicate that more air movement is required around the plants and venting of warm moist air should be increased. The benefit of

indoor crops is they are not prone to the major hassles of outdoor strawberry growers – birds harvesting the ripe fruit or pecking holes and rain on the fruit causing rot pathogens to attack.

HarvestHarvesting the ripe fruit is the best

reward from an indoor strawberry crop. Berries are best left until they are fully ripe and deep red and cut at the stalk rather than pulled from the plant. Like many fruit, berries will keep under refrigeration, but are best eaten at room temperature within a few hours of harvest.


Young plants should be permitted to develop sufficient foliage before fruits are permitted to set.

Sourceswww.johnnyseeds.comwww.tmseed.comwww.abz-strawberry.nl

http://www.sungro.com

http://www.easy-grow.co.uk

http://www.dutch-glory.com

http://www.xtremenutrients.com

GROWINGfor health

by Virginia S. Froyski

MY

Difficult economic times usually mean many cuts in spending; unfortunately this probably includes eating organic food but before you give it up entirely consider the suggestions in this article to make it a much cheaper proposition.

So how is it possible to carry on eating organic food on a budget?

The best way to go is to start growing your own. You can do this in two ways: go the whole way and start off with buying organically produced seeds from specialist suppliers or start out with ordinary seeds and raise them the organic way.Avoidance of chemicals is of course the main guiding principal

for organically-grown produce.Fortunately you will find commercial products at many garden

centers now to help if you do not have organic facilities already in your garden.Pest control has a few organic options one of which is the

use of soft soap to remove pests from your plants. This has no harmful chemicals that will affect your medium.Remember that you do not have to turn your whole garden

organic but can raise produce like tomatoes, strawberries, peppers and herbs in stand alone containers.In this way you can provide your plants with a mini organic

environment which is easily controlled and transportable too.For those people with limited space such as a balcony,

containers are a great way to get in on the organic food movement.

Low Cost Shopping for Organic FoodIf you live in an area close to farmland then you may be lucky

enough to have an organic farm from which you can buy produce direct. More and more farmers are producing organic crops; hopefully you can find one nearby.

Buying from local farmers is beneficial to both parties involved. Farmers get to earn more profit than supermarkets will pay them and you get to sample some very fresh local produce.If you want your children to have fun whilst

eating then why not try a “pick your own farm” for selecting organic fruit?The fruit you pick is weighed and you

always get a good deal on the price. When you are at the farm take a look around to see what else they sell; you might be able to find some other good deals on over-abundant crops.I hope this article has given you

a taste of how to maintain your organic lifestyle whilst keeping the cost at an affordable level.

Cheap Organic Food:Healthy Eating for Little Outlay

?

About the Author:Virginia S. Froyski has been living the organic food lifestyle for several years now. Click through to her website, www.organicfoodinfo.net, to try out seven free organic recipes and discover some excellent books on organic food.


http://www.hydro-organics.com

by Erik Biksa

Pre-Veg:YOUR MISSING LINK TO A BIGGER HARVEST

Most growers want to harvest a heavy yield as fast as possible; fair enough, as a grower why wouldn’t you want to? Well the truth is, sometimes in a rush to get the crop on the way to intensive growth before the bloom phase, it’s easy to lose sight of the fact that for an optimal reaction to occur, the conditions need to be “primed” first. Sometimes growers may get the reaction they anticipated, although never realizing it could have been a bigger “bang” than they received.



Pre-Veg:

As the title suggests, I’m recommending a “pre-veg” growth phase before shifting the crop into more intensive growing condi-tions and nutrient regimens. Now for those of you jumping out of your chairs asking how adding more cropping time can be a good thing, take a few moments and read ahead. You might find that pre-vegging doesn’t necessarily need to add any cropping time, it just changes the way you do things a little. On top of that, you can shave off a little of your electrical consumption and be able to use a slightly smaller growing area for the first couple weeks after your cuttings have rooted successfully. In the end though, it’s all about getting bigger and heavier harvests while maintaining healthier plants that can give the grower fewer problems.In terms of pre-vegging, look at building up the yield po-

tential and health of your crop like building a home; it should start from the foundation up. In the case of plants, when we discuss the foundation, we are naturally talking about the roots. However, during pre-veg the roots are just part of the focus, as healthy and better developed root systems give way to more lush and vigorous shoot and leaf development. Experienced growers know that they achieve their best results when the crop comes “out of the gate” strong with no interruptions or “hic-cups” through the development of the plants, starting early in the propagation/rooting phase.However, for the purposes of this article, we will be discuss-

ing pre-veg as it pertains to freshly rooted cuttings. Basically, once all of the cuttings are showing some root development, and are able to stay hydrated without a humidity dome, they are ready to begin pre-vegging.For soil/soilless growers, transplanting freshly rooted cuttings or

germinated seeds in starter plugs or propagation cubes into pint-sized (beer cups) containers provides the ideal balance of mois-ture and growing medium to the newly developing transplant.

"Once all of the cuttings are showing some root development, and are able to stay hydrated without a humidity dome, they are ready to begin pre-vegging."

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Pre-Veg: Your Missing Link to a Bigger Harvest

Hydroponic growers may set freshly rooted cuttings or ger-minated seeds for transplant on top of, or into larger rockwool blocks of four to six inches or net baskets from three to six

inches around filled with their hydroponic medium of choice.Be careful when placing

tender transplants into new containers or larger cubes.

Small roots and fine root hairs are easily damaged. Rough handling can set-back their development by several days as well as creating an early “hiccup” in the rate of growth, something that should be avoided to preserve the integrity of the harvest potential from the beginning stages.Pre-treat rooted cuttings and germinated seedlings before

transplant with beneficial microbial inoculants, vitamins, hu-mates, fulvates and root growth promotants. There are some great 100 per cent organic products that fit this bill, and they can be used throughout the pre-veg phase to encourage faster and healthier development of young plants before entering the intensive vegetative growth phase. When the rooted cuttings are pre-treated several hours before the actual transplant occurs, they are more resilient and are less prone to transplant shock.If using soil/soilless mediums, the texture should be moder-

ately course, although able to retain a level of moisture for a period, as the volume of grow-ing medium should be relatively small per plant in the pre-veg phase. If us-ing coco, an additional 1⁄3 of the final volume in medium textured perlite helps to improve drain-age and allows for higher air ratios around the

Ready for Pre-Veg: This cutting is ready for pre-veg. Notice the fine white fuzzy hairs. Small, tender root systems like this one need to be handled gently when transplanting.

"Rough handling can set-back development by several days as well as creating an early “hiccup” in the rate of growth."

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roots that help to encour-age beneficial microbial growth in the developing root system. Profes-

sional peat-based growing mixes that contain perlite are excellent for the pre-veg phase.Certain growers that create “living

hydroponics” hybrid systems start their transplants in the pre-veg phase in peat mixes, before trans-planting into three to five gallon buckets that contain grow

stones. By inoculating the plants with beneficial microbial products while they are smaller in stature in a relatively small volume of organic growing medium, helps to carry on with healthy biological activity throughout the rest of the bloom phase. This combination of biological activity in conjunction with the hydroponic growing medium (grow stones), helps to create a “hybrid system” of bio and hydro. The results can be outstanding with careful management.Make sure that there is adequate drainage in the beer-cups or

pint sized containers you use for pre-vegging soil and soilless plants. It’s important the roots can breathe, without drying out during this phase for optimal results. Place the containers in nursery flats with a webbed insert, to further promote drainage and air circulation beneath the containers within the tray(s).Rockwool should always be

pre-treated for a minimum of 24 hours before setting in freshly rooted cuttings or young seedlings. Rockwool is alkaline by nature, so it needs to be soaked in an acid solution of pH 5.0 for 24 hours prior to transplanting to help neutralize the alkaline pH charge that is inherent to rockwool. Adding a transplant solution that will help to create no shock later in transplant to the pre-soak can also be beneficial. Fulvic acid is also a beneficial additive to include during the pre-condition-ing of rockwool cubes, blocks and slabs. It helps to balance the chemistry in the medium and has proven to encourage healthy

root development.Grow rocks often contain micro-pore spaces. These

micro-pores can be pre-treated with beneficial mi-crobial inoculants prior to transplant freshly rooted

cuttings or young seedlings. To accomplish this, pre-soak lecca

"Combination of biological activity in conjunction with the hydroponic growing medium helps to create a “hybrid system” of bio and hydro."

Rockwool

http://www.capcontollers.com


stone and similar materials in a bucket of solution containing beneficial fungi and super-bacteria along with humic, fulvic

and vitamins; which can be found as combined products in some 100 per cent organic additives. Add

the growing medium and gently aerate. About four hours or so is typically long enough; remember those microbes want to live with roots, not under-water! Discard the pre-soak solution on house plants or outdoor soil plants.Now that your pre-veg medium is charged, it will encourage

a quick-strike of roots through the growing medium once you transplant; keeping in the theme of “no interruptions in healthy and consistent growth” to create maximum yields months later.Gently transplant the freshly rooted cuttings or young seed-

lings into the pre-veg medium or containers. Place the contain-ers in trays or chosen growth system. In soil and soilless growth mediums, take care not to over-compact the growing medium

when filling up containers that have your transplants in them. The goal is to have sufficient contact be-

tween the roots and growth medium, while ensuring that there is plenty of pore space for air; which encourages healthy and

robust development that leads to thicker and juicer roots in transplants. Simply put, don’t squish the mix around the plant too hard!The first watering is very important; it helps to fasten the

roots of the transplants to the fresh growth medium. How-ever, you don’t want to over-saturate soil and soilless mediums, reducing the pore space available for air, as it will be filled with water/nutrient solution.Some crop feeding nutrient schedules and nutrient calcula-

tors include pre-veg formulas and combinations of nutrients. Typically, the overall EC/PPM is quite mild, approximately 0.5 EC/350 ppm. If using conventional crop nutrients, you will need to adjust the pH to the optimal range for your particular growth medium for best results. Some newer innovative tech-nologies use a combination of self adjusting pH molecules and space-age chelates, reportedly eliminating the need to adjust the pH manually; the solution takes care of itself through a series of checks and balances of chemical reactions.Besides being of milder EC values, pre-veg feeding programs

should contain a full spectrum of bio-active ingredients like hu-mates, fulvates, root stimulators, vitamins and co-factors as well as a full and balanced macro- and micro-nutrient pack from the


Simply put, don’t squish the mix around

the plant too hard!

The firstwatering is the most

important!


http://www.extremegrowing.com


base nutrient formulation. Microbial inoculants encourage faster and stronger root development, and help to protect tender young plants from potential diseases such as root and stem rot.


Note that nutrient systems that offer a tailored micro-nutrient pack are preferred over formulas that use the same micro-nutri-ent pack for both growth and bloom phases. Research has dem-onstrated that plants in the veg and bloom phase have unique nutrient requirements, which includes micro-nutrients.In short, the goal of the nutrient regimen in pre-veg is to

supply a mild, complete and balanced charge of nutrients, while providing a high degree of healthy biological activity in the root zone; low nutes, high bio-activity. By the end of the pre-veg phase the goal is to have gained several sets of healthy and very green leaves without over-fertilization, while creating a very prolific, vibrant, and microbial active root system. Plants that begin their life cycle fitting this description will later yield larger and better quality harvests, and are less prone to costly and harmful insect and disease issues. Over fertilization in pre-veg will produce soft, spindly transplants that while tall, are not going to give you the nutrient hungry monsters you are after.Optimal temperatures in this phase are important to stimulate

a high rate of bio-activity within the plant and root medium. Excessively warm and dry conditions create stressed plants that are prone to insect attacks, while cooler, wetter conditions provide an entry point for many types of plant diseases. Obviously, it can work the other way too; it’s important to understand the ramifications of growing crops outside of the optimal range of conditions.

Pre-Veg Chamber: Plants in pre-veg won’t need a lot of room. Good quality light and gentle air-circulation helps to create healthy transplants that yield bigger later on.

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developed newer plants. Humidity levels can be slightly higher at this time, depending on the strain and plant variety. Most garden-

ers find that 60 to 70 per cent relative humidity (RH) works best for pre-veg. The slightly higher RH level (versus other growth

phases) helps to reduce water loss through the leaves, while the root system is still developing to support the needs of the shoots and leaves. If it is too dry, the increased rate of water loss may stunt growth, while higher humidity levels will reduce water loss through the leaves too greatly, creating “lazy” root growth.Optimal lighting levels in pre-veg are relatively low, although

higher than the levels of light intensity that are provided in the early propagation phase. Most growers find that T5 or CFL lighting is economical and practical for the pre-veg growth phase, although LED lighting could certainly be effective, pro-vided it is supplied in more than just red and blue wavelengths. With fluorescent lighting, a balanced spectrum, higher in the blue bandwidth, for example 4500 kelvin is optimal for many strains and varieties of plants. However, growers are encour-aged to experiment, as different strains appear to prefer different spectrums at different times in their development.If using a light meter (recommended) and T5 or compact fluo-

rescent lighting of 1000 to 1200 lumens proves to work very


Pre-Veg: The Results! Notice the significant difference in root mass that occurs during a 10 day pre-veg cycle; this plant will have an appetite!

“For pre-veg, a 75°F to 80°F temperature usually

proves to be optimal.″

For pre-veg, a 75°F to 80°F temperature usually proves to be optimal, and should remain constant. At this temperature a high rate of bio-activity is encouraged without stressing out the less-

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well in supplying young plants in the pre-veg phase with adequate light levels, while not pushing the tender young plants too hard, causing stresses that may reduce yield potential or invite problems. Consider that after the pre-veg phase your army of young super-plants will be ready to maximize increased light levels and nutri-ents, making your more intensive inputs more effective. For more information on optimal lighting levels in other phases, consult the Maximum Yield online archive (www.maxi-mumyield.com) on Controlled Environment Agriculture.If available, you may consider lightly elevating carbon diox-

ide levels in the pre-veg growth phase. Levels of 600-800 ppm (parts per million) of CO

2 supply enough carbon dioxide

to help catalyze a high rate of bio-activity in the develop-ing transplants during the pre-veg phase. Bottled CO

2 can be

used efficiently in smaller areas that are using lower intensity lighting, as they don’t create as much heat that needs to be vented away versus HID lamps. LEDs are even more advanta-geous in this respect.Usually, the pre-veg phase lasts 10 to 14 days before trans-

planting into larger containers or the final growing system.

MY

To learn how to treat micro-pores contained in grow rocks, visit our Online

Extra section on maximumyield.com


During this time, gradually increase air-circulation and nutrient levels, although you are advised to do so in moderation.

The key is not to stress the plant, while not letting it get too “lazy” in the early developmental phase.

At the end of this period, you should be re-warded with a healthy crop of lush, green eight to 10 inch tall transplants that have vibrant and fuzzy white roots systems. These “super” transplants will usually need less time in the vegetative growth phase to reach their ideal stature before being induced to flower. They will develop more prolifically because they are

ready to, and will need less time to adjust to more intensive conditions; in fact after pre-vegging, they are craving them! It’s usually a good idea to pre-veg a few more plants than you will need to transplant in order to fill your garden; this way you can pick the strongest and best developed, further helping you to ensure maximum yields every time you crop-out.


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BEGINNER'Scorner

by Charlotte Bradley

There are hydroponic grow systems on the market to suit any type of gardener. The bottom line is deciding:

• how much time you have to devote to the project • what your budget is • how much space you have • what plants you want or need to grow

Once you have identified how much of a commitment you want to make, you will need to match your needs with a system that meets them. If you are just starting out, the ebb and flow and drip systems are great for beginners because they are not complicated and not too costly, yet they produce very good results. The first system that I ever tried was an ebb and flow (sometimes called flood and drain) and I was thrilled with the beautiful tomato plants that I was able to grow one winter in my sunroom.The advantage of a hydroponically-based system is that it is

versatile and can be adapted to any environment. You can easily nurture an indoor garden so that it flourishes with a simple, inexpensive system and expands as your new hobby grows.Let’s start with becoming familiar with how growing systems

may be categorized. A hydroponic system can be identified as:

1. Active: A hydroponic system that actively moves or circulates the nutrient solution (usually through a pump).

2. Passive: A hydroponic system that relies on capillary action of a wet wick.

3. Recovery: A hydroponic system that re-circulates nutrients.4. Non-recovery: A hydroponic system that applies nutrient

solution to the growing system, which is not recovered.5. Bare Root System: A hydroponic system that does not use

a growing medium.6.Substrate System: A hydroponic system that uses a growing

medium to support the roots, such as rockwool, perlite or vermiculite.

DETERMInInG WhICh hyDRoPonIC GRoW SySTEM BEST SuITS youR nEEDS

Would you like to jump-start and extend your growing season and have access to fresh produce year-round? If yes, a hydroponic garden may be the answer.

The advantage of a hydroponically-based system is that it is versatile and can be adapted to any environment. You can easily nurture an indoor garden so that it flourishes with a simple, inexpensive system and expands as your new hobby grows.


MY

Now that we understand some of the characteristics, let’s apply it to some choices of hydroponic systems on the market today. Here are some variations:

The Wick System This passive, non-recovery system does not require a pump. A candle wick or thicker oil lantern wick is used to move the nutrient solution from the growing medium to the root system of the plant. Passive systems are the more inexpensive route, but can be too wet for healthy plant growth and thus tend to be less productive.

The Ebb and Flow System Also called flood and drain, this is an active recovery system that uses a pump to move the nutrient solution to the roots of the plant where oxygen depleted air is replaced with oxygen rich air. The pump stays on for about 20 minutes and when the nutrient solution reaches a certain level, the overflow tube drains the water back down into the reservoir. Due to low maintenance and a higher margin for error, this is a good choice for beginners.

The Nutrient Film Technique Characterized as an active recovery system, an NFT consists of slanted grow tubes where gravity assists the solution back into the reservoir. Solution is pumped into a grow tube where the roots are exposed. This system is higher maintenance and requires more technical knowledge to troubleshoot. It is less forgiving as roots are completely dependent upon the constant flow of pumped nutrients for sustenance.

The Continuous Drip This is considered an active system that uses a pump to push solution to nutrient lines connected to each plant. It may be recovery or non-recovery depending on whether a tray is used underneath to collect and re-circulate the solution. A growing medium, such as rockwool, is used to stabilize the plant. This is another good beginner system.

Aeroponic In aeroponic systems, plant roots are constantly misted with nutrient solution (active, recovery). In this bare root system, roots are suspended in midair and receive air constantly; nutrient mist is 20 per cent oxygen and plants can access maximum amounts of oxygen possible resulting in tremendous growth. These are generally suited to the more advanced gardener.For flexibility, if your needs are small-scale and you want an

uncomplicated set-up for growing small tomatoes, herbs, lettuce and small plants, the ebb and flow and drip systems are a better choice. If your goal is to produce bigger plants or plants that carry a heavier fruit, a bucket system is more efficient.As you become more experienced you may want to try out an

NFT (great for strawberries and herbs) or a more challenging but highly productive aeroponic system.

http://www.nutrifield.com.au/additives

by Lee McCall

PyramidFood Production

Part II

After establishing this designated foundation of support for your custom regiment, assorted organic and synthetic additives used in correct sequence will help build a successful diet to equate dense foliage structure

and healthy fruit/flower formation. Some of my personal favorite

products included enzyme formulas to help keep roots and mediums clean of debris and fertilizer build-up and compost teas rich

The key to a successful harvest begins with a solid foundation for understanding the nutritional needs of a crop. Experimentation is essential for progressive flora development, yet in a controlled and moderate process so as to track effective and non-effective variables that influence growth characteristics. Part one of this series discussed the relevance of selecting a base nutrient system to fit the needs of your gardening style.



in microbiology that aid in nutritional delivery, stimulate metabolic activity and provide beneficial inoculation for rhizosphere enhancement. Among others, kelp supplements derived from Ascophyllum nodosum and Laminaria digitata were briefly discussed. Packed full of vitamins and key minerals, these organic additives help ensure lush vegetative growth and vigorous floral production. Lastly mentioned were guanos, bat varieties in particular. The magical effects of this excrement stimulate all phases of growth, specifically bloom cycles, increasing the number of bud sites on plants and trees, promoting heavy yields and profuse aromatic qualities.Part two expands the pyramid further, as more additives

contribute towards the peak of success. As other ingredients begin to show signs of progressive effect, there is still much more available to add substantial nourishment to the garden, and reap a bountiful harvest. In every growth cycle factors may fluctuate; however, considering that pH is preferable and consistent, environmental factors are ideal, i.e. proper lighting, air movement, temperature and humidity. Assuming all conditions suit the specific crop of choice, production should be evidently vibrant and healthy as potential flowering sites emerge from internodes and flora structured peaks.Useful from beginning to end, carbohydrate supplements

derived from monosaccharides, disaccharides and polysaccharides enhance the overall biomass and cell-division properties within the genetic structure of plants and trees.

"Carbohydrate supplements derived

from monosaccharides, disaccharides and

polysaccharides enhance the overall biomass and cell-division properties

within the genetic structure of plants and trees."

http://www.nutrifield.com.au/additives/nf-zyme


Containing ingredients like molasses, various fruit extracts and cane sugar, these sweet additives for the garden are available from numerous companies each with their own distinct properties and fortified blends. Gardens and orchards under the influence of these particular augments undergo stress-free transitions from one phase of growth to the next. Many varieties incorporate the help of select amino acids to ensure successful transportation of nutritional elements to the garden. Beneficial bacteria, fungi and compost inoculations will feed off these carbohydrate sources as well promoting faster and stronger colonization in the roots and grow medium. Weight gain is a common result in many fruit, flower and vegetable bearing crops as density of flesh and seed pods is dramatically increased from infliction of the supplementation. Nutritional value of the end product is also improved through stimulation of terpenoid production, which relates directly to aroma and colors in many cultivated crops. These qualities are direct proof of a superior product, and are distinguished from many gardens that do not utilize the advantageous properties of these compounds. Integrate these products throughout the duration of a crop’s growth and bloom cycle in conjunction with other metabolic stimulators to reveal the inevitable differentiation in crop quality.

Food Pyramid Production: Part II

"Worm castings are excellent for use as a top dressing

and amendment to fresh or depleted soils and soilless

mixes and works as an added boost of mild nutrition for all

stages of growth."

Worm castings are a great source of organic nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium and add structure and biological life to potting soils and reservoir solutions for commercial and hobby gardeners. This by-product of vermicomposting is excellent for use as a top dressing and amendment to fresh or depleted soils and soilless mixes and works as an added boost of mild nutrition for all stages of growth. I particularly favor this valuable waste for supporting fragile seedlings and rooted cuttings that require healthy starts for optimum growth after

http://www.hydroponics101.com

http://www.house-garden.us


worm casting products for vegetative stages in crops to build strong healthy roots and foliage in preparation for any bloom cycles the garden will endure. If gardening outdoors, revitalize garden plots with this amendment to enrich the site for the following year.Similar to healthy bone structure and

development in the human body, plants need calcium for proper cell and bloom growth. A deficiency of calcium is often misconstrued for a variety of problems, however, if assessed early on before damage has a chance to occur, is easily deterred in process. Liquid and dry forms are available to the market derived from calcium carbonate, the same substance from which egg shells are composed.


"Plants need calcium for proper cell and

bloom growth."

transplant. Castings are able to slowly release safe amounts of nutrition to the root zone lowering the risk of fertilizer burn, and making the medium desirable for sensitive crops. Liquid forms referred to as “tea” make the use of hydroponic application as easy as soil gardening. Very similar to compost tea, beneficial organisms naturally occurring in these blends must not contact chlorinated water sources for the best possible results. Use

These manufactured sources compliment many nutrition programs, and provide all the difference in a crop’s end result at harvest time. Calcium is essential for proper fruit and flower formation; a lack of it may result in blossom end rot and poor foliage growth. Processed calcium additives make the nutritional element soluble compared to that of raw form. The popular form known as lime helps to stabilize pH value in soil and soilless

http://www.ecogrow.com

http://www.powerboxinc.com


In addition to all the popular organic treatments for valuable crops, synthetic additives are extremely effective as well, inflicting instantaneous and even mutative results. Phosphorus and potassium boosters usually containing minimal or no traces of nitrogen are effective during the onset of flowering and ripening stages. When used during the initial days of a crop’s blooming phase, these products can literally jump start a plant or tree into fruit production without any lag time many growers experience in the first and second week of production. Pre-flowering characteristics are noticeable in as little as the first week of bloom. Implement the same product in the last two to three weeks of the fruiting or flowering cycle to impose adequate weight gain and immediate ripening effects. Examples of these synthetic enhancers might appear with ratios such as 2-45-28, 0-50-30, 0-42-27, 0-39-25, etc. The dense phosphate based stimulators should be used with caution as sensitive crops are easily burned as a result from nutritional overdose. Small experimental increments are always best when introducing any nutrient into a garden for the first time.Aside from nutrients, oxygen is an important part of a

garden’s ecology. I have encountered numerous gardeners that use hydrogen peroxide in their nutritional recipes in attempt to add this precious element to improve root health. As an excellent sterilization compound, I highly recommend H

20

2

for disinfecting hydroponic systems and equipment between crop cycles. Ensure that equipment is thoroughly rinsed clean if peroxide is used for cleaning purposes. When used in conjunction with nutrient formulas, it intensifies the available oxygen density to the root zone. DO NOT use hydrogen peroxide with organic nutrients or microbial additives as the disinfectant properties can render them inactive. If the desire is to increase oxygen availability in organic gardening practices, utilize air stones instead.


"Municipal water supplies treated with large amounts of chlorine

or chloramines are devastating to organic gardening practices."

“Phosphorus and potassium boosters usually containing minimal or no traces of nitrogen are effective during the onset

of flowering and ripening stages.”

applications, by counteracting the acidic value in the root zone that results from many different nutrients. Coconut coir users in particular should supplement with calcium additives throughout the duration of the growth cycle as this medium tends to restrict crops from sufficient assimilation. Calcium deficiencies may commonly occur after the first few weeks of a plant’s flowering regiment has initiated. Begin use at the first signs of bloom to prevent malformation and maintain productivity.

http://www.ncwgs.com


Construction of the essential brew for a garden would not be complete without a pure water source. I cannot stress enough, municipal water supplies treated with large amounts of chlorine or chloramines are devastating to organic gardening practices. Investing in a high quality de-chlorinator and sediment filter for normal tap sources of less than 250 parts per million promises huge rewards come harvest time. They are inexpensive, retailing for around $100 and do not require an added waste line like reverse osmosis (RO) machines. RO machines, however, should be used for any supply that registers above 300 parts per million out of the tap, as the excessive amounts of mineral deposits may obstruct nutritional delivery. Avoid using water from pitcher and faucet filters as these are known to add fluoride into the source for added taste desirable for human consumption, yet harmful to gardens.Although the world of hydroponic and soil nutrients is

vast and competitive, assembly of a custom food pyramid is not out of reach. Through trial, error and documentation, every hobby and commercial gardener has the luxury of

nutritional manipulation. Research and experiment with various

products and crops to yield the best result, and void redundancy from

regiments.

Access all of Lee McCall's articles on www.maximumyield.com

MY


by Luis Bartolo

OrganicsFor centuries organic cultivation has been the only form

of agriculture on earth. With this article we will look into the history of organic cultivation, how it has developed and where it stands today. So let’s time travel to the past and the beginning of organic cultivation. But first, we must ask: What is organic agriculture?Organic agriculture is the oldest form of cultivation. Organic

farming was, and remains, a labor-intensive process. Manures, composts, seaweed and many other natural ingredients were collected and then often left for long periods of time to become useful, after which they would be manually applied to the earth in order to begin to work their natural magic. This was always how it was, the endless cycles of nature feeding nature.

"Organic agriculture is the oldest form of cultivation."

Back tO the Future



At the onset of the 20th century and the progress of the industrial technology it was discovered that fertilizers could be made artificially through scientific methods. Recently developed chemical technologies became useful for agricultural production. Superphosphate was discovered through treating bones with sulphuric acid; lime soon replaced bones as the

phosphorous source by dissolving the rock in sulphuric acid.The start of the world wars meant an increasing number of

men of working age were sent away from their fields to go to war, and with the enginery of war came further developments in synthetic fertilisers. For example, ammonium nitrate used for munitions during WWII evolved into ammonium nitrate fertilizer; organophosphate nerve gas production led to the development of powerful insecticides. These technical advances have resulted in significant economic benefits as well as environmental and social detriments. They have led to negative impacts on society and the environment, such as pesticide pollution and insect pest resistance.

http://www.phatfilter.com


Back to the Future Organics

Instead of using synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, organic farmers utilize crop rotations, cover crops and natural-based products to maintain or enhance soil fertility. These farmers rely on biological, cultural and physical methods to limit pest expansion and increase populations of beneficial insects on their farm. Because genetically modified organisms (GMOs) constitute synthetic inputs and pose unknown risks, GMOs such as herbicide-resistant seeds, plants and product ingredients, like GM-lecithin, are disallowed in organic agriculture.Organic agriculture today seeks to utilize technological

advances that consistently yield benefits, including new varieties of crops; precision technologies; more efficient machinery, etc.

According to the USDA National Organic Standards Board (NOSB), organic agriculture is defined as “an ecological production management system that promotes and enhances biodiversity, biological cycles and soil biological activity. It is based on minimal use of off-farm inputs and on management practices that restore, maintain or enhance ecological harmony. The primary goal of organic agriculture is to optimize the health and productivity of interdependent communities of soil life, plants, animals and people.” (NOSB, 1997) The term organic is defined by law, as opposed to the labels “natural” and “eco-friendly,” which may imply that some organic methods were used in the production of the foodstuff, but this label does not guarantee complete adherence to organic practices as defined by a law. Most “natural” products do not contain synthetic products, but may have been provided conventional (synthetic chemicals used in production) food or feed (as in “natural” beef).

Definition or·gan·ic (ôr-g n k)adj. Of, relating to, or derived from living organisms: organic matter.a. Of, marked by, or involving the use of fertilizers or

pesticides that are strictly of animal or vegetable origin: organic vegetables; an organic farm.

b. Raised or conducted without the use of drugs, hormones or synthetic chemicals: organic chicken; organic cattle farming.

c. Simple, healthful and close to nature: an organic lifestyle.

The term organic is defined by law, as opposed to the labels “natural” and

“eco-friendly”.

http://www.ushio.com


With the development of the sector of organic agriculture, some European nations began to pass laws that defined, controlled and regulated organic farming. But the lack of a common European norm and the astuteness of too many false organic producers who labeled their products as natural, ecological or from organic cultivation, made life hard for the careful consumer who wanted to buy the real organically-cultivated products. Finally in 1991, the CEE regulation 2092/91 was issued, the first of dozens of European norms that in the past 15 years have defined organic farming from all of views: production, processing, labeling, marketing, importation and control.In organic farming nothing is left to change; in fact, it is the

most clear-cut and controlled system of farming that exists.

Rules of crop productionThe following is a list of the general rules that have to be

followed by a commercial farm that decides to produce in accordance to the norms and the regulations of organic cultivation.

Period of conversion:It’s not possible to pass from one day to the next from a system

of conventional farming to an organic one. It is necessary that the transformation happens gradually; for this reason a period of conversion is applied.In this period all the specific productive norms are followed

but the harvested crops cannot be sold as “organic.” During the passage from conventional agriculture to organic the minimum period of conversion is an average of two years.

http://www.hydrohuts.com


Fertilizers:In organic farming the use of chemical fertilizers is forbidden.

When it is necessary to reinstate organic substances into the ground, the organic farmer has different options. The first is green manure - that is the burial of plants grown just for the purpose of enriching the soil. Legumes are used most often. The organic enrichment can be completed using zootechnic dejections that are incorporated into the ground, opportunely treated, deriving from animal organic production, under the limit fixed by the EU norms (170 kilograms/hectare of nitrogen per year) and other organic material, compost or not, always produced by organic farms/manufacturers. Also organic fertilizers of vegan and animal are admitted.

Benefits of organics:• Mobilizes existing soil nutrients, so that good growth is

achieved with lower nutrient densities while wasting less.• Releases nutrients at a slower, more consistent rate, helping

to avoid a boom-and-bust pattern.• Helps retain soil moisture, reducing the stress due to

temporary moisture loss.• Improves the soil structure.• Helps prevent topsoil erosion.• Organic fertilizers also have the advantage of avoiding

certain problems associated with the regular use of artificial fertilizers:

• The necessity of reapplying artificial fertilizers regularly (and perhaps in increasing quantities) to maintain fertility.

• Extensive runoff of soluble nitrogen and phosphorus, leading to eutrophication of bodies of water (which causes fish death).

• Costs are lower if fertilizer is locally available.

Back to the Future Organics

"In organic farming the use of chemical fertilizers is forbidden."


You can access all of Luis' articles by visiting our author archive on www.maximumyield.com

GMOsWhat is a GMO? A genetically modified organism (GMO) or

genetically engineered organism (GEO) is an organism whose genetic material has been altered using genetic engineering techniques. These techniques, generally known as recombinant DNA technology, use DNA molecules from different sources, which are combined into one molecule to create a new set of genes. This DNA is then transferred into an organism, giving it modified or novel genes. Transgenic organisms, a subset of GMOs, are organisms which have inserted DNA that originated in a different species. Some GMOs contain no DNA from other species and are therefore not transgenic but cisgenesis.The usage of genetically modified plants and animals is

absolutely forbidden in organic farming, while it is possible to use the traditional techniques of genetic improvement.

And now, we come back to the future.So we can see the 150 year gap in organic farming was only

a small moment of time in the history of the earth. We can only hope that the damage done is not irrevocable. Fortunately for us and our planet, the promotion of environmental issues and the championing of organics above chemicals is evident all around us. For many years this was the domain of alternative culture, often derided. Yet as the evidence has proven the quick fix hasn’t worked. It’s time again to go back to the basics before it is too late.

GMO = Genetically Modified OrganismGEO = Genetically Engineered Organism

MY

http://www.organicairfilter.com


environment; becoming toxic to plants. Also, for gas fired burners (CO

2 generators) to work efficiently, they require a source of

fresh air for the combustion process.Savvy operators of CEA (Controlled Environment

Agriculture) or sealed grow set-ups allow for a slight “bleed” of the air to occur. For example, to ensure a very healthy growing atmosphere, a proportionately small, passive fresh air access is created and is “capped” off with a HEPA intake filter, as featured in some of my articles. With a carbon scrubber (activated carbon filter with fan) cycling constantly within the area, it will pull a small amount of fresh air into the grow room through the small passive HEPA intake. Excess air will “leak” out of the growing environment through any tiny cracks, etc. Remember it’s almost impossible to 100 per cent seal a room, so there are some cracks for the air to bleed out. The volume of fresh air being introduced is cleaned through the HEPA filter and

does not introduce contaminants, just enough fresh air to help displace stale air or gases that can accumulate to toxic levels. Imagine a full glass of water that has a few drops added every minute; the volume of liquid will slowly be exchanged over time, keeping it fresh and palatable.

by Erik BiksaTIPS &tricks

Stability and Longevity

MY

The question on the table today is does CO2 go “stale” (for lack

of a better term). Most substances, and molecules for that matter, are in a constant state of flux and are changing states, or the way they are formed on an atomic level. Arguably carbon may be one of the most stable molecules we have, and it’s a very important one. However, carbon dioxide is not just carbon, it is CO

2 so

there are two oxygen molecules attached, and oxygen can be relatively reactive.O

2 as a compound offers a little more stability than something

like O3, which is ozone. The extra oxygen molecule wants to

leave the arrangement, as O2 is more stable.

In most indoor growing situations, the CO2 in the growing

atmosphere gets used up astonishingly quickly when plants are healthy and productive, and also depend on the stage the plants are at in the cropping cycle. This is why it makes good sense to enrich the environment with a supplemental source of clean carbon dioxide if ventilation through outside air exchange is not constant during the lights on cycle. Ensuring that CO

2

levels remain higher than ambient through various stages in the cropping cycle can increase yields by as much as 30 per cent and often reduce the overall amount of cropping time required, because plants produce at accelerated rates.In most situations, it seems that the most likely scenario is that

the additional levels of CO2 will get used up faster than they

may be able to degrade. However, it’s doubtful that any carbon dioxide enrichment system is 100 per cent efficient, meaning that other less desirable compounds may be introduced as gases when delivering elevated carbon dioxide levels to crops. For example trace amounts of ethylene and carbon monoxide may be introduced using gas-fired CO

2 generators. Since the

plants do not want to use or absorb these gaseous compounds, they may build up to harmful levels in a tightly sealed growing

A HEPA FILTER CAN CLEAN THE AIRPassive, fresh air can be introduced to the grow set-up by using a HEPA intake filter. When combined with a fan that cycles air through the environment, the filter will help to remove any contaminants and provide a healthy growing atmosphere.

http://www.turboklone.com

by Isabelle Lemay agr. and Mélissa Léveillé

Climate COntrOllers:Calibration for indoor GardeninG SuCCeSS

In indoor gardening, the ultimate goal is always quality harvests with maximum yields; invested time and money must be profitable! A conscientious gardener will take care of measuring his harvests to determine the profit of his garden after each crop. How? For example, simply counting and classifying the fruits and flowers according to their size or to weigh the leaves or the harvested fruits. What’s important is to find a suitable method to quantify the different parts of the plant in which we are interested. As one production varies from another, it is important to take note of the parameters used for each of them. This way, we better understand the crop’s evolution and it becomes possible to identify the ideal “recipe” to gain maximum benefit. In order to find that famous “recipe” and to repeat it again, it is necessary to work with precise instruments!



"An appropriate calibration of your climate controllers is essential because false readings bring

inadequate actions which in return cause unwanted situations that

affect the productivity."

CalibrationIn your indoor garden, the thermometer shows 75°F, the

hygrometer reads 58 per cent and the CO2 (carbon dioxide)

controller, 1048 ppm (parts per million). So, you think your plants are comfortable and existing in the best conditions. But now, leaves are curling and some mildew has developed. Your harvest prospect looks disappointing, in other words, less quantity and less quality. What’s happening? Since the beginning of the crop, you took good care of following every step of your usual recipe, which every time produced good results. It could be that the measuring devices for the temperature, humidity and CO

2 concentration give false readings. What’s the problem?

Could it be the calibration?The calibration of measuring devices has the goal to obtain

an exact value of what we wish to measure. The calibration’s action is to adjust a measuring instrument against a standard measurement of which the precision is certain. In indoor gardening, an appropriate calibration of your climate controllers is essential because false readings bring inadequate actions which in return cause unwanted situations that affect the productivity. With such a chain reaction, it becomes difficult to identify the true source of the problem.

When to calibrateJust as the majority of sensors are factory calibrated, it is

recommended to verify the exactitude of the calibration at installation time and every crop start, particularly for CO

2

sensors, which are considerably more fragile and subject to an important reading variation. A simple shock, in transportation or at the installation, is enough to make the sensor reading slip away from the true value. From our experience, we recommend calibrating NDIR CO

2 sensors before each crop or every

three months to offer your plants the best possible growing conditions. Some CO

2 controllers even display a reminder

message to calibrate it at regular intervals.

http://www.nutrifield.com.au/nutrients


Calibration for Indoor Gardening Success

How to calibrateCalibration methods

vary according to the controller and sensor’s type. But for all calibration, the basic principle to remember is to use a reliable reference. We can think about a mercury thermometer for the temperature, a psychrometer for relative humidity or a calibration kit for CO

2 sensors (figure 1). Without a reliable

reference value, we risk falsifying the reading even more from what it was originally. Among calibration methods, some are more effective while others are to be completely avoided.

Off SetWhen a controller or sensor can’t be calibrated, which is

often the case for temperature and relative humidity sensors, it is possible to validate its precision by comparing its reading to a reliable measuring device. Simply note the difference on a piece of paper and place it near the controller to remember adding or subtracting a given value to the displayed reading. Then, adjusting the controller’s set point to apply the corrected value will be needed. For example, in the case of a controller displaying two degrees more than the real value, it will be necessary to add two degrees to the set point to obtain the desired temperature.However, this method might become tedious and can be

subject to errors. Fortunately, there are some electronic controllers that allow correction of their reading by adding or subtracting automatically a value to the controller’s reading (off set). This way, the controller displays a corrected reading and applies it to its programming!

The calibration limitsAlthough practical, the calibration with another reference

has its limits. Remember that

"Without a reliable reference value, we risk

falsifying the reading even more from what

it was originally."

Figure one:Mercury thermometer, psychometer and CO2 sensor calibration kit at 1000 ± 20ppm.

http://www.direct-hydro.com


"To obtain a calibration as precise as possible, the ideal way is to calibrate the controller with a gas mix that has a concentration close to the one desired in the garden (around 1000 ppm)."

scientific uncertainty analysis adds up errors from the measuring instruments. In other words, the calibration is affected by both controllers’ imprecision deviations. Let’s take for example a CO

2 controller. With a precision of ± 75 ppm for the sensor to

be calibrated and a similar ± 75 ppm reference controller, we would obtain on the newly calibrated controller readings within ± 150 ppm from the actual CO

2 concentration; there’s the

importance of having a reference as precise as possible. In the particular case of a CO

2 sensor, the method by comparison also

presents other inconveniences. In fact, we have to assure that the CO

2 concentration is as stable as possible during the whole

calibration process, which is not an easy task in a non isolated environment. The simple fact of breathing (between 30,000 to 40,000 ppm) near the controller significantly influences the sensor! So which method should be adopted for this type of sensitive sensor that requires regular calibration?

Calibration kit for CO2 sensorsThe ideal calibration

method is to expose the sensor or the controller to a gas mix with a known and certified CO

2

concentration. Some sensors have a built-in calibration

circuit in which we vaporize a known concentration gas mix. Most of the horticultural controllers used in indoor gardening do not have such a circuit. We can then place the controller in a sealed bag to protect it against human breathing, remove the air from the bag and replace it with a known CO

2 concentration mix (figure two).

Then, just follow the user’s manual calibration instructions. Like every precision measurement device, we have to remember that a CO

2 sensor will be inaccurate at its measurement scale limits,

for example around 0 and 5000 ppm. To obtain a calibration as precise as possible, the ideal way is to calibrate the controller with a gas mix that has a concentration close to the one desired in the garden (around 1000 ppm).Some retailers and manufacturers offer, at an affordable price,

a calibration service using this precise and reliable method.

http://www.direct-hydro.com


systems. Depending on the time of the day, the outdoor real CO

2 concentration in the

air is between 350 and many thousands ppm. We also have to consider that in cold weather, the difference between the outdoor temperature and the garden’s temperature will falsify the calibration as the electronic circuit operates in different conditions. So it is better to avoid this method.With all aspects we just covered, you

are now well informed on the need for precise climate factor readings in indoor gardening and the importance of calibration to get them right. And once your controller is well calibrated, it is still necessary to know your plants’ needs in order to properly program it for maximum yields.

Calibration for Indoor Gardening Success

For additional information on climate controllers, visit the

article archives on www.maximumyield.com

According to the calibration number

to make and frequency, it might be worthwhile for the

gardener to get a calibration kit.

Why not calibrate CO2 sensors outdoors?For many years, CO

2 controller

manufacturers have recommended the outdoor calibration method, for want of anything better. This method suggests an average outdoor CO

2 concentration from

350 to 400 ppm, which is never truly right at any location depending on the area’s different CO

2 emitting sources. For

example, vehicles reject approximately 20 per cent of their exhaust in CO

2. Imagine

the CO2 quantity rejected during rush

hour in the cities, and this is without taking in consideration the CO

2 rejected

from factories. We can also think about those wood, fuel oil and gas heating

MY

Figure two:The controller has been placed in a sealed bag to protect it against human breathing, a factor that significantly influences the sensor.

http://www.uvonair.com

http://www.dropbags.com

GREEN THUMBgardening

MY

PICk APPROPRIATE PLANTS. Not all plants are appropriate for the area you live in. While you might be able to control the temperature, humidity and rain conditions inside your house, you can’t do so in an outdoor garden. If you pick appropriate plants for your area, you may be able to avoid using fertilizers and save on water too. Research what plants are native to your surrounding area and try planting them in your own garden. Wildflowers are just that; they can be left alone and will thrive in most areas.

PICk NATuRAL REPELLING PLANTS. You don’t need to rely on poisons to keep away garden-ruining pests. Many plants produce chemicals that repel these animals naturally. By putting them in or around you garden, you can keep your garden safe with little effort and no chemicals. Plus, you can pick parts of these plants and use them to make products to keep them away from you too.If you don’t want to plant natural repellents in your garden,

you can use them to spray your plants without harming them or adding artificial chemicals to your garden. Many herbs like hot peppers, vanilla and lavender can help repel insects from your garden.

PuLL WEEDS. We’re all looking for a quick and easy way to safely get rid of weeds without chemicals, but the good old fashioned way is still very effective. It you take time every day to pull the weeds you can find, it will only take a few minutes of your time. You can even get the kids involved, just be sure

to do it properly so you don’t spread the seeds around. There are even some common weeds that are edible, just make sure there are no pesticides that could have gotten on them. Indoors the same advice applies; keep things clean and clear of debris, fallen leaves, etc.

CROP ROTATION. Farmers all over the world use crop rotation to naturally fertilize plants. The concept is to change what crop you’re putting in a certain field each year. Plants use different nutrients and return other nutrients back into the soil. If you rotate crops that replace the nutrients the other plants use, you will have to fertilize the soil less often.You can use this same concept in your garden by planting

different plants every year, or just rotating where you put specific plants in the garden.

MOVING FORWARD. So, you’ve made all these changes and are using a low-water, chemical free garden? Well, you still haven’t done the most important thing: pass it on! One garden can make a dent, but more can make a bigger difference. Tell your friends, teach your kids, you can even visit their school and teach your kids’ friends! Every little bit helps make a better world.

OrganicChemical-FreeGardeningEvery year, thousands of chemicals are poured into the environment and millions of gallons of water are needlessly wasted. How? By growing plants. Sure, most of this is done by large agricultural producers, but some of it occurs in personal-sized gardens. And that means that you can make a difference by changing your gardening practices. There are many agricultural producers who have done it, and you can use the same tricks to help your own garden, and the planet.


http://www.eelriverhydroponics.com

by Andrew Taylor: Chemist of Flairform

Using Conductivity to Control Nutrient

Concentration

It is important to control the concentration of your nutrients. Burning of roots or foliage can occur if the level is too high. If the concentration is too low then deficiency symptoms will occur.The concentration of nutrients and additives is usually set by the manufacturer, which is stated as the volumetric dose rate, for example, four to five teaspoons per gallon (figure one). However, for the main inorganic nutrient, conductivity (EC) meter* is a helpful dosing aid.*Also includes CF and TDS meters


Add nutrient to reservoir at the following rates:Hydroponics e.g. NFT, Rockwool, clay, perlite

4 - 5 tsp/gal. Target EC 1.6-2.3mS.

Copyright @2008 www.flairform.com

Figure one:Nutrient labels often list dosage rates in terms of both volume and EC.


1

Copyright @2008 www.flairform.com

Figure two:Stir nutrient tank well before sampling. Then leave the electrode in the sample for a few minutes before switching the meter on and taking the measurement.

2

12

3

4

Uses of EC meters1. EC meters gauge the total concentration of salts in the nutrient solution. Hence they are useful for setting the target EC (table one) when a nutrient batch is first made (see step four below).

Note: EC meters will not detect organics such as vitamins, hormones, etc.

2. EC meters are also useful for maintaining the target EC as nutrient and water is consumed in re-circulating systems. However, because both good and bad salts are included in the reading, re-circulating nutrients must be frequently dumped because of the likelihood of toxic levels of bad salts like chloride present, and an imbalance of good salts.

UnitsEC measurements are typically stated as mS (CF and ppm

are common, but unequal alternatives). For example, distilled water and organics have an EC of zero mS. Mature flowering plants, however, typically require a nutrient solution EC of around two mS.

Obtaining conductivity readingsStep 1. Make sure the meter is calibrated.Step 2. Remove a ‘representative’ sample from the nutrient reservoir:+ For re-circulating systems ensure the reservoir is always filled to the same volume. If the reservoir is only half full, the conductivity reading will be twice as high as what it would be when full.+ Stir the nutrient thoroughly prior to sampling.+ Ensure the sampling container is clean.Step 3. Rinse electrode in distilled water before immersing in the sample. Wait a few minutes* before switching the meter on and recording the EC (figure two).* Wait longer if the sample’s temperature is significantly different from 77oF.Step 4. + If the EC is below target, add nutrient to the water until correct (to calculate this refer to table two). When making a new batch of nutrient, use the label’s volumetric dose rate as a guide.



5

Using Conductivity to Control Nutrient Concentration

+ If the EC target is exceeded then add more water (“top-up” water). To calculate this, refer to table three.Refer to table one ‘a’ for commonly recommended EC levels for the main stages of growth. These levels are suitable for the majority of plant types (for specific plants see table one ‘b’). Within certain limits, there is no need to be precise with EC levels because plants will generally only consume what they need. Most species will tolerate being above or below the recommended value by at least 10 to 20 per cent.

Step 5. When complete, rinse electrode with distilled water. Store the electrode in distilled water when not in use.

Calibrating EC metersUnless an EC meter is calibrated, you cannot confidently use

EC recommendations like those supplied on many nutrient products. Calibrating cross-checks the meter’s accuracy against a solution of known conductivity called a “conductivity standard” (figure three).

CONDUCTIVITY STANDARDFor Calibrating of Conductivity

(EC) and TDS MetersCalibrates to cF27.6 at 77oF

Contains Potassium Chloride

Based on international (APHA) standard formula

Figure three:When calibrating meters ensure to use a conductivity standard that is based on international standards.

http://www.milwaukeetesters.com


2

1

Using Conductivity to Control Nutrient Concentration

Looking to read more of Andrew Taylor's articles? Visit our author archive on


To calibrate, either refer to your meter's instructions, or do the following:Step 1. Rinse electrode in distilled water then gently wipe with a tissue to remove excess water. Immerse electrode in 2.76 mS/cm (CF 27.6) Conductivity standard* for five minutes, then calibrate the meter so that it reads the following:+ For conductivity meters - calibrate to 2.76 mS/cm or CF 27.6.+ For TDS meters - calibrate to 1800 ppm (or as directed).*Note: To prevent contamination of the stock solution, decant a portion into a smaller container and discard once used.

Step 2. Remove electrode from conductivity standard and rinse with distilled water. The meter is now ready to be used.

Maintaining EC electrodesCleaning conductivity electrodes: Conductivity meter

electrodes normally become coated with impurities. The degree to which this occurs will depend upon the nature of the samples being tested, and whether or not the electrode is rinsed with distilled water and properly stored after each use (figure four and five).

ELECTRODE CLEANERAll purpose cleaner for pH andconductivity meter electrodesFor removing inorganic and organic contaminationRestores electrode accuracy and response timeHelps maximize electrode life-span

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Figure six:Ensure to use an electrode cleaner that can remove both inorganic and 'organic' contamination. Most cleaners will only remove 'inorganics'.

Figure seven:Popular styles of conductivity meters: Availability ranges from the more expensive laboratory grade (left), to the inexpensive pocket sized (right).

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Figure four:To help ensure ongoing accuracy clean the electrode with distilled water after use.

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Figure five:Storing the electrode in distilled water will help prevent salt build up.

Electrode contamination causes a loss in sensitivity and, therefore, accuracy. Regular cleaning will maximize electrode performance and ensure a longer working life.Note that when testing nutrient solutions, both organic and

inorganic contaminations tend to co-occur. It is therefore important to use an all-purpose cleaner (figure six). Be aware that most cleaners usually only remove inorganic contaminants, like salts.Storing conductivity electrodes: Store the electrode

in distilled water when not in use (figure five). This will help prevent salt build-up which tends to encrust the electrode if left to dry out.

Purchasing a conductivity meter The following specifications are important considerations:

+ Ability to produce readings in Siemens (e.g. “mS”) or CF. Avoid meters that will only yield TDS (ppm).

+ Calibration facility: Helps ensure accuracy even when electrodes are not performing to original specifications due to electrode contamination, physical damage, etc.

+ Housing that is both waterproof and floats – helps protect against accidents/mishandling.

+ Temperature compensation: A built-in temperature sensor allows the meter to adjust readings to display what it would be if the temperature was at 77oF.

+ Long battery life - with auto-off feature to prolong battery life.

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"Regular cleaning will maximize electrode performance and

ensure a longer working life."

http://www.hannainst.com/usa

by Evan Folds

In truth, all except the fortunate live a filtered existence. We don’t drink rain water or “drinking water” from the tap; we depend on artificial devices of unimaginable complexity to remember things for us and organize our lives; we trick ourselves into believing that most of our supermarkets are actually selling food; we subsidize large farms rather than small farms and structure farm policy around protecting their bad habits; we feed living plants lifeless food; we are taught to rely on potentially toxic pharmaceuticals rather than change our diets; and the list goes on. We filter and manipulate nature in order to make it more convenient for ourselves, but we disrupt the magic and hinder our potential.

Complete NutritioN


part i


Rather than harnessing the alchemy of nature for human benefit, we make our limited minds up into conclusion and operate in an anthropocentric fashion that literally creates the problems that we have no ability to explain. Our inattention to the repercussions of our imbalance in earth has created a world of depleted soil and empty food, and it is this food that fertilizes our minds. Pure food = pure thoughts. In other words, by growing cheap food we are not allowing ourselves to see the insanity of what has become a vicious cycle.If we had not abused ourselves and

the earth for the last 100 years via industrialization, the concepts of biodynamic farming or juicing wheatgrass for health would not be as relevant as they are in today’s world. In 1924 Rudolph Steiner was asked to give the lectures that birthed biodynamic agriculture by farmers experiencing the degradation of the farm from synthetic agriculture. It is extremely important to recognize that he offered his wisdom as a response to a loss, not as a mere alternative. Farmers who experienced a living farm before industrialization could immediately recognize the degeneration on their farms, but those farmers who began their trade after industrialization and the dawn of artificial agriculture take this vitality and life force for granted in the same way that people act surprised when they taste a biodynamic tomato that does not taste like cardboard. When wheat and barley protein concentrations declined by 30 to 50 per cent between the years 1938 and 1990 the need for implementation of such a response could not be more evident. So when people look at you funny and ask why you are burying cow horns and stuffing deer bladders to create the BD preps, you tell them we’re playing catch up! For more information, read Steiner’s lectures introducing biodynamics in the Agriculture Course, available from industry wholesalers.The goal of food production should be producing the most

nutrient dense crops possible. We should base our markets on mineral and enzyme density, rather than shelf life and volume. We should call this focus the FOOD MOVEMENT and pay attention to the health factor of the food produced rather than defining the method of its growth. But it’s easy to live in the conditional tense and the reality is that we are fighting an uphill battle. Market standards are driven by people’s attention spans, so we must continue to fertilize as many minds as possible to wake people up to the truly amazing weapons we have at our fingertips. We can fight the very

"Our inattention to the repercussions of our imbalance in earth has created a world of depleted soil and empty food."

Pure food = Pure thoughts

Rudolph Steiner

http://www.sunpulselamps.com



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Complete Nutrition

problems that manifest as disease and result in the wealthiest nation on earth being relatively the most sick. A recent study tells us that over 30,000 babies die from premature births in America at a rate three times higher than that of Singapore every year, which amounts to the 30th overall in the world and below almost every other industrialized nation. The scary part is that “experts” can find no smoking gun; they have no idea why these deaths are occurring or why the incidences of premature births are so

high. The US spends more on health care than any other country, actually more than most other nations combined, but all we need to do is grow better food. It’s that simple, especially when you analyze the differences in food policy in the US relative to the rest of the world.The USDA organic

standards have been watered down to meet the demands of industrialized agriculture and no longer represent the intentions of the origins of the “organic movement.” “Organic” certification has become a new way for large companies to make more money. Examine the flow charts on this link for more information: http://www.edenfoods.com/articles/view.php?articles_id=109. It is stated explicitly on the USDA National Organic Program (NOP) website that “organic” does not mandate healthy food, only how it is grown. What this means is that one can grow “organic” food and still produce inferior produce. According to many polls taken, this comes as a surprise to the majority of the public who tend to

"The uS spends more on health care than any other

country, actually more than most other nations

combined."

purchase organic food, not only because it does not include pesticides/herbicides, etc., but because it is supposed to be healthier. We continuously program ourselves into ignorance, rather than express our buying power and intelligence to reinforce our collective ideals.Not only this, but organic standards

actually pigeonhole food production by preventing the organic certification of traditional synthetic fertilizers in hydroponics. While the rational can be understood, the fact that most hydroponic growers separate the artificial nature of their product from the environment,

recirculate nutrient

solutions and actually create higher yields while consuming fewer resources is completely ignored. So is the fact that hydroponics can produce equivalent, if not superior, foodstuff relative to traditional field-based growing. We diluted the ideal rather than taking rational and thoughtful steps; we threw the baby out with the bath water.

http://www.cubecap.ca


It is arguable whether you can ever create healthier, more nutrient dense food than what is grown in the earth under the sun, but we must make the connection that 95 per cent of the food grown in America is grown artificially in fields where the synthetic fertilizers we use wreak havoc on the local ecosystem. The artificial nature of these materials when involved in a dynamic ecosystem not only force-

feeds plants and discourages the natural symbiosis, but it kills the life in the soil outright, leaving plants alone to fend for themselves and literally creates all of the problems that we feel obligated to attack with dangerous poisons. In other words, it’s not the synthetic fertilizers that are the problem, but using them in the wrong place. We are actually working to create the problems that we are trying to kill and that are literally killing us. Because of this situation, hydroponics is perfectly positioned to augment this wanton neglect of consciousness, but is generally ignored as a mainstream way of producing food. Further, the fact that our certification programs do not allow the market to recognize hydroponics

Complete Nutrition

in any way superior to the empty food we are producing synthetically in field’s means that farmers are not willing to make the investment and take the leap in converting their means of production. Real progress will only come when we make the collective connection that our goal is healthy food, not how it is grown.

"It is our buying power, and our buying power alone,

that will transform our food production mechanisms for

the better."

"95 per cent of the food grown in America is grown

artificially in fields where the synthetic fertilizers we use wreak havoc on the local

ecosystem."

There was a scene in the new movie Food Inc. that is particularly relevant. Representatives from Wal-Mart were being interviewed about their foray into selling “organic” food. Not surprisingly most of the crowd jeered at their appearance, but what they had to say hit the nail on the head. They described that their business was driven by demand and that they are in the business of providing what people ask for. However, they don’t listen to people’s voices, but their pocket books. It is our buying power, and our buying power alone, that will transform our food production mechanisms for the better. If we expect the world to provide us with what we want without providing an incentive for it to do so, we’re going to end up empty handed.

http://www.hydroponics.com

http://www.stealthgrow.com


Biodynamics has been proven via conventional data (and many subjective experiences) to contain a greater nutrient density relative to conventional or organic farming practices, but maybe one in 1000 people recognize it as a deliberate means of producing superior food. One of the easiest ways into this understanding is by recognizing that vineyards are actively converting to biodynamic

MY

practice. There is no crop in the world that is more closely scrutinized than in viticulture and producing wine. The grapes must be inspected for their sugar content and harvested at the perfect time in accordance with the natural life cycle of the grape. The fact that you can see biodynamic wine being reviewed in mainstream publications such as TIME magazine is an indication that farmers see real benefit in implementing biodynamic practices on their farms. After all, biodynamics is no walk in the park. The effort and intention involved in its practice are not for the light at heart,

being an extremely involved process that involves tremendous dedication. However, the result of this process and the benefits of biodynamic products can be enjoyed by us all, as true biodynamic offerings are now available from industry stores. Ask for them by name at your favorite grow shop.The real magic in biodynamic

agriculture involves the perspective of the earth or the grow room or the farm as an organism and the utilization of specifically potentized plants and herbs to communicate the force structure necessary to increase the life force in living systems. This activity is undertaken so that the earth may be healed and in order to create living solutions to artificial problems. It appreciates the biologically dynamic situation, rather than the tunnel vision of “primary nutrients” practiced by most hydroponic growers, the USDA and conventional farmers or the materialism that has been adopted by “organic” farmers. However, biodynamics alone is not the answer; it must be coupled with a perspective from the individual that truly articulates the desires of the whole, rather than the convenience of the lowest common denominator. We must be cognizant to provide the proper tools for the plants and organisms that we intend to grow in order for them to reach their desired maturity and, in turn, provide us with the life force necessary to allow us to carry our will into action. Call this complete nutrition, for lack of a better word, as opposed to the complete nutrition we discuss in the hydroponic world. Next time we will discuss specific ways to work within the idea of complete nutrition and the repercussions for our success in growing plants and our health, so stay tuned!

Complete Nutrition

Visit www.maximumyield.com for a review of the movie Food Inc. and sign the

Hungry for Change petition supporting healthy food choices in schools.

http://www.dragonfilters.com

http://www.flower-dragon.com

by Stephen Keen with Pat King

Water Chillers Explained

"Anything that creates heat can be cooled by water

one way or another."

Let’s start with chiller basics - what is a water chiller and why would a person want one?A water chiller does just what its name implies - it cools

water. Chillers are used in indoor gardening for a wide range of applications including nutrient cooling and water-cooled equipment such as CO

2 generators, dehumidifiers,

air conditioning and even lighting. Basically anything that creates heat can be cooled by water one way or another.Given the efficiency of a chiller versus the efficiency of other

common cooling methods, and the added control over garden temperatures (and therefore happier plants) that water-cooling affords, using water to cool makes more financial sense in the long run. It does, however, cost a little more up front and it is a little more difficult to set up than traditional cooling methods. I compare it to installing radiant barrier on attic roofs or buying Energy Star appliances for your home - in most cases, well worth the investment.

What is a chiller and why would I want one?


the amount of refrigerant entering the evaporator. As the refrigerant enters the evaporator it starts to absorb heat and boils off, becoming a vapor. Water is pumped through or across the evaporator and the heat is absorbed from the water by the refrigerant. The refrigerant is again sucked in to the compressor, compressed into a hot gas and sent to the condenser to start the cycle over. Some chillers also come with an option to run the cycle backwards. This results in the water being warmed instead of chilled and cool air instead of warm blowing out the back of the chiller.

How does a chiller work?The cooling function of a chiller is very similar to that of an

air conditioner. The energy savings comes in the form of the superior efficiency of the heat exchange of water versus air. Most chillers use electricity to power a thermostat-controlled compressor that forces refrigerant inside through a cycle. The refrigerant starts as a hot compressed gas being pumped to the condenser from the compressor.In the condenser the compressed gas begins to condense to

liquid as the heat is removed by a fan. Most of the heat being absorbed by the refrigerant is removed at this point and blown out of the chillers. The cooled liquid leaves the condenser and enters either an expansion valve or capillaries to control


"Installing a water chiller is equivalent to buying Energy Star appliances - well worth

the investment."

http://www.hydroinnovations.com


Chill Out: Water Chillers Explained

of the increased thermal load of water. In nearly all cases the evaporator in a chiller will be significantly more efficient than that of an air conditioner, again allowing it to run less to get the same amount of cooling.Outdoor chillers used in conjunction with indoor water-

cooled air handlers can supply traditional style air conditioning - the difference is that there is water passed between them instead of refrigerant. This type of set-up can be installed by anyone as no refrigeration license would need to be installed. Water lines can run hundreds of feet to a water-cooled evaporator. A/C ducting cannot run for significant lengths as the airflow decreases dramatically with distance. Water is currently used in most large public buildings for heating and cooling, both due to its superior efficiency and because it affords the ability to use one cooling unit for a very large area, whereas several air conditioning units would be required due to the distance constraints involved with ducting.

Types of chillers:All chillers are not the same! Just like air conditioners, there

are several different chiller designs and types available and your

Why is a chiller more efficient than an air conditioner?The primary reason for the superior efficiency of a chiller

over an air conditioner despite their use of the same internal components is that the thermal conductivity of water is 23 times greater than that of air. What that means is a chiller will exchange the heat in a given space much more quickly than an air conditioner, allowing it to run less to get the same results. This is where you save electricity.With an air conditioner, air is passed over the evaporator

instead of water. Since the air is less conductive, the evaporator can’t draw out as much heat as it can with water. The chiller evaporator is significantly smaller than an air evaporator because

"The primary reason for the superior efficiency of a chiller over an air conditioner is that the thermal conductivity of

water is 23 times greater than that of air."

http://www.icehousedistribution.com


needs should be carefully considered before a purchase is made. If your application calls for a heavy duty chiller, you will not get the results you need from a chiller intended only for nutrient cooling. Further, actual cooling output varies from brand to brand even on chillers with the same size compressor, so do your research before you buy. In our market, there are a lot to choose from, but we’ve broken them down into three main categories:

Aquarium/Reservoir chillers:These chillers are very affordable,

extremely common and are made to hold a body of water at a specific temperature against the ambient temperatures only. They are not made to carry a load. These chillers are only to be used for light duty cooling and can only be used indoors, so they are designed to run quietly as well. They cannot handle a direct or significant heat load. I compare them to refrigerators, as long as the door is closed and there is no heat being introduced, the refrigerator does exactly what you require of it, but you can’t put a constant heat source inside and expect it to stay cold. This goes for the aquarium/reservoir chillers as well. Mostly this is a result of smaller condensers and fans, necessary to suppress noise and maintain a small cabinet size. When used

AquArium/reservoir chillers: "When used under the light loading for which they’re intended, these chillers are affordable and readily available."

http://www.watercooledgardens.com


under the light loading for which they’re intended, these chillers are affordable and readily available with several different brands to choose from.

Equipment chillers:These are usually more expensive than

the variety mentioned above but are more rugged and are made to directly counteract a heat source. These chillers can handle constant loads and most can be placed outside if desired. These chillers are usually more energy efficient and will last longer under harsh conditions.Some of these are better than others,

and they can range from 80 to 100 per cent load capacity. This means that with a 12,000 BTU compressor for example, some will give you 12,000 BTU of cooling and some will only get you 9600 BTU. The higher output chillers are usually a bit more expensive, but since they are more energy efficient, they will run less often, cost less to operate and last longer than the chillers with lower output, as you get more cooling out of the same power consumption.

Commercial chillers:These chillers are the most expensive

available, but are also the highest quality

and longest lasting chillers you can buy. Some units come with built-in pumps and reservoirs so you simply attach your plumbing to the water outlets, add water, turn them on and set your water temperature. The commercial size chillers can only be placed outdoors (they are too large and remove too much heat to be placed indoors) and most can be roof-mounted if needed.

How to properly size a chiller:Properly sizing your chiller is vital!

Heating and cooling are both measured

in BTU and if the BTU loading is higher than the BTU output of the chiller, the chiller will run constantly and will never or rarely get your body of water to your desired temperature. You will need to closely estimate how much heat is being produced by the equipment that you’re trying to cool to know how much cooling you need. You must also consider ambient temperatures, how well the room is insulated, if there is any venting to the outside and the cubic footage of the area that you’re cooling.

In general, 1000 watt bulbs produce 3500 BTU and 1000 watt digital ballasts produce 2500 BTU of heat. (Every light and ballast is different so these are generalizations). So if you were looking to cool a room with 4000 watts and with the ballasts in the garden, you would need a chiller with at least 24,000 BTU to counteract the heat generated by the lights and ballasts alone. You’d need to add BTUs to the chiller if you wanted to add water-cooled air conditioning or if you wanted to use any other water-cooled equipment such as CO

2 generators. If I

can offer one piece of advice that you’ll thank me for later, it would be to always size your chiller 20 per cent larger than

Chill Out: Water Chillers Explained

"Some units come with built-in pumps and reservoirs so you simply attach your plumbing to the water outlets, add

water, turn them on and set your water temperature."

"A properly sized larger chiller will use less power than a smaller chiller because it runs less often and requires less effort

from the compressor."

http://www.botaniwipe.com


your equipment and environment often allows gardeners to add more lights to their space because they have more control over their temperatures and smaller electric bills. This results in larger yields with little or no increase in power consumption, and happier plants in a more consistent environment. When the correct chiller, for the correct application, properly sized, is used in the indoor garden, the benefits of more control and less energy use will nearly always offset the upfront expense. MY

you think you need. A properly sized larger chiller will use less power than a smaller chiller because it runs less often and requires less effort from the compressor. A larger chiller will last longer and offers you the ability to expand your set-up later. I’ve found that many people add lights to their garden after they switch to water-cooling because they have freed up some electricity and have more control over their garden temperatures.

Where should I put it?For a chiller to operate at maximum efficiency, it must have a

constant supply of fresh air. It is a mechanical heat exchanger and cannot exchange heat efficiently if it is in a closed room or in a hot attic. To take maximum advantage of its energy efficiency, the chiller should be placed outdoors if possible, even if it is hot outdoors. If you leave it in the house, even in a different room, your home air conditioner is cooling the heat from the back of the chiller, which is really just the heat from your garden, so it isn’t providing nearly as much energy-savings as it does if you put it outside.In short, water cooling has been used for decades, mainly

in commercial and industrial applications. It’s already been proven in these other applications that water chillers can be extremely energy friendly additions to the indoor garden! The energy savings that can be afforded by using water to cool

All of Stephen`s articles are available exclusively on www.maximumyield.com

http://www.hydroinnovations.com

Life in the Winter Soil

by Roland Evans of Organic Bountea

The garden hibernates.Dried stalks and leafless shrubs stand out

against a light dusting of snow. Nature and the gardener draw a breath after summer’s frantic rush and fall’s rich harvest.Beneath the snow, the soil lies frozen in

a rock-like crust. At first glance, it seems lifeless and barren. If we could look deeper,

observe the rich interconnectedness of the soil web, we would see that while the garden sleeps,

the soil dreams of spring. When we have completed our work as gardeners, replenished and protected the

powerhouse of soil life, millions of organisms are eager to provide a surge of growth as weather warms. Knowing what

happens deep in the winter soil helps us understand why our fall gardening practices are so essential.In this article, I can only lightly touch on the vast complexity

of the soil food web. I will pass over all the protozoan species, the nematodes (good and bad), and the vast range of insects and arthropods. My focus is just a sample of micro-organisms and worms – the smallest and largest inhabitants of the soil.

Natural GreeNhouse GrowiNG suN aNd soil:

"If we could

look deeper, observe the rich

interconnectedness of the soil web, we would

see that while the garden sleeps, the

soil dreams of spring."


Bacteria and ArchaeaSoil microbes, like all living

organisms, need food and energy. In winter, as the sun’s warmth declines, these are at a premium. Annual plants die after setting seed, while perennials reduce growth and consolidate sugars in their roots; less plant sap is available to feed carbohydrate-loving microbes. With decreased warmth and nutrients, decomposition of organic matter slows as microbes settle toward a quiescent state.Because of their simple structure, many types of bacteria can

freeze without harm. Unlike more complicated organisms, bacteria have membranes that do not burst when their internal fluids turn to ice. With soil rich in humus, bacteria can hibernate through the cold weather well protected within their carbon habitats. Soil that drains well and has humus content around 10 per cent is an ideal environment for over-wintering microbes.Some microbes are even hardier and more primitive than

bacteria. These are the archaea, a relatively recent discovery in soil biology. Archaea micro-organisms are possibly the most ancient living things and have been found in every known environment from Yellowstone’s hot springs to ice floes in the Arctic. Because they can live and reproduce in extraordinarily harsh ecologies, they are often called extrememophiles – lovers of the extreme.

While only a few hundred types have been studied, it is probable that thousands of archaea species live in the soil. Until recently, it was thought that only certain bacteria were specialized to convert ammonia into nitrate, a process called nitrification, essential for plant nutrition. Scientists have found that Crenarchaeota archaea are by far the most dominant ammonia oxidizers - up to 3,000 times more abundant than bacteria. Archaea, with their extraordinarily simple cells, are still working at temperatures near 32°F when other microbes are fast asleep.To promote soil life during fall and winter, I lay down

compost, plant cover crops (see Cover Crops, Sept. 09 USA) and make sure to feed the soil with a deep application of compost tea. Cereal crops such as rye, winter wheat and triticale protect the soil from leaching of minerals and also help stabilize soil carbon, essential for microbes. Compost tea, with its diverse microbial population, supercharges the soil and roots with microbial life. Research shows that the population of microbes around cereal roots can actually grow during winter, generating organic nutrients ready for spring.

Soil Fungi and MycorrhizaeMany species of soil fungi do not actively survive the winter;

instead they set spores. As soon as soil temperature rises, those spores begin to sprout, sending out masses of thread-like hyphae, connecting to their preferred nutrient sources. Most fungi

"With decreased warmth

and nutrients, decomposition of

organic matter slows as microbes settle

toward a quiescent state."


are beneficial to the soil food web, breaking down cellulose to produce plant nutrients and humus. Others can be noxious pests, colonizing mulch, depleting nutrients and attacking plants.Fungal spores causing rusts, blights, wilting, molds, damping

off and root rot are everywhere, floating in the air and settling in the soil. Many gardening experts suggest that the ground be rough dug in fall and weathered during winter to help rid the soil of unwanted fungi and insects. However, this is a two-edged sword. Fall digging disrupts the network of beneficial fungal hyphae, particularly those belonging to mycorrhizae.Mycorrhizae have been shown to not only strengthen plant

development, but also help prevent infestation by noxious fungi. Both spores and hyphae of mycorrhizae withstand winter temperatures and, if left undisturbed, can quickly colonize plant roots in the spring. Another beneficial fungi, trichoderma, actively attack destructive fungi in the soil and on plant surfaces. It even prevents snow molds that form on lawns under snow. Healthy winter soil, full of beneficial fungal micro-organisms, defends tender spring seedlings from attack and gives a boost to early growth.Again, planting a cover crop is an effective way to strengthen

populations of beneficial fungi. Trichoderma and mycorrhizae are found in large numbers in the soil after the cultivation of winter cereals. To support the growth of these beneficials, I add a root innoculant containing 21 species of mycorrhizae and trichoderma to my final application of compost tea. I seldom have problems with disease in the greenhouse. I believe that a soil well stocked with good fungi has enormous value in protecting plants from attacks of all kinds.

WormsOf all the myriad members of the soil food

web, worms have the most interesting winter survival strategies. Before the soil freezes, common earthworms burrow down into

the subsoil, below the frost line - as much as six feet deep. There they form a slime-coated ball and hibernate in a state called estivation. Because they are wrapped in mucous, they can survive for long periods without moisture until spring rains wake them from their slumber.Not all kinds of earthworms make the downward journey.

Some lay eggs in cocoons safe in the soil, ready to hatch when conditions are right. Then they settle under leaf litter on top of the soil, where they freeze and die. A type of Northern worm, S. niveus, has developed an extraordinary method of making it through the winter. S. niveus worms can manufacture glycerol as a kind of antifreeze in their internal fluids. This allows them to super cool their bodies to 5°F and survive even the harshest cold.In my greenhouses, I find that many worms avoid hibernating

by finding unfrozen strata of soil - perhaps under a barrel of water that serves as thermal mass, or beneath a plastic bag filled with leaves. Lifting some insulating object, I often find a wriggling mass of worms when I least expect them.Organic mulching (see Maxi Mulch, Dec. 08 USA) is my

preferred way of protecting all the life in the soil, including worms. Deep mulch reduces fluctuations of soil temperature that cause problems for soil life and over-wintering plants. It also decreases the amount of freezing in the soil and conserves soil moisture.Soil life needs less water in winter than in summer, only

about 15 per cent, so watering is needed only during warm dry periods. In fact, it is often important to avoid watering mulches to reduce molds and noxious fungi. In moist warm climates, artillery fungus and molds colonize mulch, so only materials that have been hot-composted should be used. In dry climates, such as mine, raw materials - leaves, hay or straw - work well as long as they are kept fairly loose and uncompacted. I like to fluff up the mulch once or twice during the winter to keep it mold free.Plenty of compost, a smattering of cover crops, a dose of

compost tea and a deep covering of mulch will keep all those wonderful organisms in the soil snug and healthy. With all that life poised to spring into action, you can be sure your next growing season will exceed all your expectations.

Sun and Soil: Natural Greenhouse Growing Life in the Winter Soil

"Fall digging disrupts the network of

beneficial fungal hyphae, particularly those belonging to

mycorrhizae."

"It is often important to

avoid watering mulches to

reduce molds and noxious

fungi." To access each article from the Sun and Soil: Natural Greenhouse Growing Column, visit www.maximumyield.com

MY


http://www.steadygro.com

by Matt Geschke

Sustainability:

"Sustainability is not a singular idea but a complex paradigm that many previous civilizations employed."

Buzz Word or Legitimate Agenda?

One of the most impassioned topics currently discussed in the mainstream media is that of sustainability. It would appear that this concept is new and novel due to the intense interest it has garnered by all engaged in the dialogue. However, it may be surprising to some that the fundamental practices are centuries old. I have lectured on this topic for nearly 10 years and have distilled down a definition that I feel is broad enough to encompass the concepts covered in this article while allowing the reader to interpret and subsequently tailor the message to his or her

life. Sustainability as I have come to understand it is the act of producing all of the necessities for life in a manner that does not degrade the quantity or quality of resources for future generations. This is not to say the aforementioned resources cannot be amended or modified but their quality and quantity must not be degraded. This may appear to be a tall order for many of us who have been raised in a “single use” society. The notion of “no net loss” requires a dramatic change in our behavior as well as a nearly wholesale replacement of the traditional agriculture model.

Incan circular terrace near Moray, Peru.



How were these civilizations able to conquer this apparently insurmountable task? The answer is relatively simple; through sustainable agriculture. Mesoamerican inhabitants developed more than half the agricultural products that the world eats today. Among these are more than 200+ varieties of potato; 20+ varieties of corn; as well as varieties of beans, peppers, squash, quinoa and amaranth.The Incan culture is responsible for developing agricultural

techniques and methods so effective that many of them are still in use today. Arguably the most recognizable Incan method used in their sustainable model was the construction of andene terracing. These terraces were often constructed in a circular fashion and employed regional topography to their advantage as they were built on natural slopes. This design allowed the passive force of gravity to irrigate their crops without the use of mechanical pumps. The faces of the slopes were waterproofed by tiling the surface with a mosaic of flat impervious rocks. Upon this stone foundation, walls and terraces were constructed with multiple water inlets along the top and several drainage channels at the bottoms.

For us to truly understand and ultimately discuss sustainability with a level of competence it is important to understand its genesis and its consequent evolution throughout history. What makes the concept of sustainability unique is that it is actually a myriad of symbiotic, yet often disparate, applied concepts, anchored to a very specific set of beliefs. Therefore, it is not a singular idea but a complex paradigm that many previous civilizations employed; and through its implementation they enjoyed great wealth and prosperity. By using sustainable practices the Incas and the Aztecs were able to support populations that many estimate were in the millions. Imagine the food security burden associated with a population of that magnitude and then factor into the equation that these civilizations lived at altitudes with very little precipitation, long before the industrial revolution. Accomplishing these feats of agricultural sustainability was nothing short of miraculous.

"Mesoamerican inhabitants developed more than half the agricultural

products that the world eats today."

http://www.nutrifield.com.au/contact


Waru Waru

These voids were filled with mineral rich soils and amended with nitrogen rich seabird and bat guano as well as coarse aggregate and sand at the bottom to aid in drainage. Sound familiar?

The overall design combines many of the fundamental elements currently employed in contemporary hydroponic systems: The use of automated irrigation, the circular design to maximize space, upper terraces feeding lower terraces and the use of organic fertilizers and drainage amendment to maximize yield.A second lesser known Incan design was the Waru Waru; this

system was constructed on high flat plateaus, where terrace construction was not possible or where direct precipitation was the only available irrigation method. Deep water ditches were excavated around the agricultural plots and were subsequently filled with rain water. These channels served as reservoirs for irrigation but they also created a humid rich microclimate due to evaporation. This is of paramount importance for one of the greatest challenges of cultivation at elevation is the lack of humidity. Many of us involved in this industry design our

products to excel in controlled environments and as a result humidity is one of the most critical factors that we address. Amazingly enough, the Incans were able to accomplish this task 500 years ago, at 14,000 feet of elevation, without humidifiers or fuzzy logic controllers.The Incans were also dedicated to research and development

as it applied to plant morphology and genetic resistance. To this end they constructed an exceptionally large circular terrace in the Peruvian city of Cusco. Experts believe that this location is where most of the hybridizing experiments took place and as result of the massive scale of this operation, hundreds of Incan farmers were employed year round to ensure that the desired outcome was achieved. By constructing this massive terrace system the Incas were able to replicate the conditions found at various elevations and consequently develop elevation specific hybrids. By using this technique the Incas were able to develop varieties of maize and potato that grew at 14,000 feet amsl (average mean sea level) that were previously only cultivated successfully at 3,000 feet amsl.On a related note, it is evident from archaeological

investigation that the Aztecs constructed massive aquaponic farms by raising fish alongside crops. They built artificial islands known as chinampas in regionally low lying areas (marshes or lakes) and planted them with a variety of regional crops. Canals were then constructed throughout this network of islands and afforded the farmers the ability to tend their crops from a canoe. Waste from the fish fell to the bottom of the canals and was collected to fertilize plants. Plants also benefited from the microclimate created by the evaporating water.It should be obvious by now from this crash course in

Mesoamerican agriculture that the solution to our sustainability problem with regards to agriculture has already been defined over 500 hundred years ago. Our charge now, as members of the hydroponic community, is to take these concepts and extrapolate them into forms and techniques that are applicable to modern controlled environment agriculture. Detractors to this cause cite that the current sustainable practices are not

Sustainability: Buzz Word or Legitimate Agenda?

Pisac, Peruvian terraces in the Sacred Valley.

"The overall design combines many of the fundamental elements

currently employed in contemporary

hydroponic systems."

"Many of us involved in this industry design

our products to excel in controlled environments and as a result humidity is one of the most critical factors that we address."

"Current sustainable practices are not viable when expanded to the magnitude

necessary to provide the quantity and quality of food needed to sustain the

global population."


Unfortunately, it is this short sighted, margin-based approach to technological development that has placed us at the precipice. Many experts believe that without a means of sustainable agriculture we will exceed our planet’s carrying capacity by 2050. These are dire times and we must adopt a sense of urgency. We have an opportunity to make a difference and we must embrace it. Instead of accepting the broken and inefficient technologies we are given with a willing look and open hands, we must demand that the industry designs future products with sustainability in mind. It all starts with the growers; we are the inventors, we are the solution and we can drive this agenda, but we must remain steadfast in our resolve. We must commit to products that can be recycled or used as fuel for another process. We must abandon technologies that are inefficient to

ship and manufactured thousands of miles away. We must train a critical eye on those who supply our nutrients. Are they mining these constituents in an environmentally sound fashion or are they buying low and selling high with no regard to impact they cause? We must be judicious in our

approach to irrigation; drain-to-waste must be reevaluated and new re-circulating designs must be developed. Finally, our current lighting options must be reexamined and revamped with not just lumen intensity and wattage in mind but with energy efficiency (watt to usable lumen ratio), functional life span and recyclability calculated into the equation. In the end this is our responsibility and our planet; we can accept what the talking heads tell us or we can prove them wrong. This is the event horizon!

viable when expanded to the magnitude necessary to provide the quantity and quality of food needed to sustain the global population. Ironically, I agree with this assessment, however, I am not deterred but inspired. As a global community we have been given a once in a lifetime opportunity to mold the future through environmentally conscious food production. The models currently employed are broken and do not incorporate technological advancements available in other industries. The hydroponic industry has a tendency to be a bit incestuous with regards to solutions to our internal problems. This is not only reasonable but expected for many of the suppliers to our industry have a vested interest in their proprietary technologies.

Access to a variety of articles on sustainable growing can be found at


MY

"We are the inventors, we are the solution and we can drive this agenda."

http://www.vitallandscaping.com

124 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009 pests - fungi - mildews - insects

by Matt LeBannister

Organics, Chemicals and Biological Controls

Pest Control:


Pests are often a big concern for most gardeners. Indoor gardeners find it especially frustrating to battle insects and the others pests that infiltrate their gardens. Insect and pest populations can explode in the pristine, climate-controlled environment that most indoor gardeners grow in. Also within the indoor environment there are no naturally occurring predatory insects to feed on pests and keep them in check.There are many ways to combat these garden invaders before

they destroy what is precious to us. There seems to be a ton of different sprays, bombs, traps and dusts available at your local gardening center to battle destructive garden insects. Some products contain organic, synthetic or chemical pesticides that kill on contact or when ingested. Other options are naturally-derived sprays, colored sticky traps or an ever-expanding library of predatory insects that can be purchased through local gardening centers and greenhouse supply stores.With so many different types of products to treat any number of

pest-related problems, it can be difficult for one to decide which product is right for the job. There really is no right or wrong choice when it comes to fighting garden pests, fungi or mildews; it is up the grower to decide what best fits their situation.With a multitude of options available, it is important to

understand how they are properly applied, how they work, which pests or problems they treat and how they affect the plants as well as how they affect us. The best way to make an informed decision is through research and consistent education on the alternatives available.

125MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009pests - fungi - mildews - insects

“Pyrethrum and its active ingredients, should never be used in conjunction with beneficial predator insects, because these

pesticides will kill them also.″

Underside of a leaf with aphids

Pyrethrum and its active ingredients, pyrethrin, cinerins and jasmolins, are a common organic contact pesticide. A contact pesticide kills pretty much every insect or bug that it is exposed to. Therefore, these types of pesticides should never be used in conjunction with beneficial predator insects, because these pesticides will kill them also.Pyrethrum-based insecticides are usually in aerosol sprays or

“bug bombs.” Aerosol sprays should be applied to the plant from a distance of one to 1.5 feet from the leaves. If sprayed too close the leaves will burn, because the pressurized contents will escape at a very low temperature.The great thing about

pyrethrum-based pesticides is that they are non-systemic. Systemic pesticides will be absorbed by the plants and cannot be used on crops intended for consumption. Pyrethrum-based pesticides break down quickly and can be used up to three days before harvest.Another very popular pest control product is neem oil.

Neem oil is extracted by pressing the seeds of the Indian neem tree. The resulting oil concentrate can be purchased at quality garden stores. Neem is generally applied in a spray to the entire plant. Don’t forget to spray the underside of leaves, because many insects will hide there. The dilution rate for mixing the neem oil is one to two teaspoons per quart of water. To help the oil and water mix, try adding a couple drops of hand soap; make sure the soap is not antibacterial.When the sprayed neem oil comes in contact with the

garden pests, the active ingredient, azadirachtin, confuses the insect’s growth hormones. On young garden insects or eggs this contact will cause the insect to never reach sexual maturity, meaning that no offspring will be produced. Neem

Once insects, fungi or other pests have infiltrated the grow room, your first line of defense is usually organic pesticides, sprays or homemade recipes.

“Neem oil is extracted by pressing the seeds of the Indian neem tree.″

http://www.naturescontrol.com


Insecticidal soaps are safe to use on edible plants as they dissipate in about a day or so. They are a biodegradable and environmentally-safe product.Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) is a common household

product that can be used to treat outbreaks of powdery mildew. When applied to the leaves affected with powdery mildew, the baking soda will alter the pH levels of the leaf surface and kill the mildew as a result. Plants should be dusted or sprayed with a diluted baking soda/water solution for three days for an effective treatment.Another way to remove powdery mildew from plants is to dust

them with a mixture of powdered sulfur and lime. This method is safe for people eating the fruits and vegetables, but can hurt the plant sometimes. If the temperature goes above 86°F the leaves with the sulfur/lime dust on them will burn. Plants can become severely damaged and can even die as a result. If sulfur is to be used to remove powdery mildew the room must be kept cool.

Pest Control: Organics, Chemicals and Biological Controls

Spidermitedamage

Diatomaceous earth is safe to use on all plants, edible or otherwise, although one should wear a dust mask when applying. The little particles can damage human airways and lungs if inhaled.Another pest control product is insecticidal soap. This is a

relatively mild form of insecticide made from the fatty acids of plants and animals. It’s most effective against spidermites, thrips, mealy bugs, aphids and any other soft-bodied insect. The fatty acids will penetrate an insect’s membranes clogging them and killing the insect.

Scales

oil is effective against spidermites, aphids, scales, fungus gnats and even harms beneficial insects. Neem can also effectively remove powdery mildew and rust.Neem oil should not be used on edible plants and are going

to be consumed. Neem oil is a systemic pesticide and will be absorbed directly into the plant that it is being used on. If one does intend to use neem oil on a plant that is edible, it is best to make sure that none of the neem oil comes into direct contact the with fruits or vegetables.Diatomaceous earth is an excellent organic choice for

specifically removing either aphids or slugs from one’s garden. These fossilized remains of single-celled organisms known

as diatoms can be dusted on plants and soil. When the diatomaceous earth comes into contact with aphids,

the sharp particles will damage their waxy coating, resulting in a fatal wound.

When ingested by the slugs, the sharp particles will cut

their insides and cause death.

“Neem oil is effective against spidermites, aphids, scales, fungus gnats

and even harms beneficial insects.″

http://www.drdorights.com

http://www.maximumyield.com/winbig


A great way to treat your garden pest problem is to use a variety of different homemade pesticide mixes. Many recipes are available online, and most will contain one or more of the following ingredients: Chili powder, hot pepper sauce, garlic juices and soap. The soap will clog the membranes of soft-bodied insects, while the other ingredients like garlic juice and chili powder will confuse insects and make the plant’s taste less desirable.

Sources:The Organic Gardener’s Handbook of Natural Insect and Disease Control. Edited by Barbara W. Ellis and Fern Marshall Bradley. Rodale Press, 1996.

Patten, George Van. Gardening Indoors: The Indoor Growing Bible. Van Patten Publishing, 2002.

Pest Control: Organics, Chemicals and Biological Controls

A pepper plant with aphids.

Most homemade mixes are safe to use on fruiting and flowering plants and are non-systemic. Homemade mixes should be sprayed on the underside and topside of leaves twice a week to effectively control and eliminate pest populations.To help control the adult population of winged insects, many

gardeners will use colored sticky traps. These traps use cards that are either yellow or blue and are covered in very sticky glue. The insects are attracted to the color and will think that they are flying towards a flower. When the winged insects land, they are trapped to the glue on the card. With no escape, it is only a matter of time before the pests die.For these sticky traps to effectively trap adult winged insects

they should be hung just above the tops of the plants. This is where most insects will fly when going from plant to plant.

Probably the best line of defense against a garden insect infestation is to battle them with predator insects. Every pest naturally has another pest that feeds on it. For example, spidermites have predator

mites that will feed on them and aphids have aphid midges, whose larva’s saliva will paralyze them so they can cut the juices out. There is literally a biological predator solution for every pest problem one might encounter. Every predator has a preferred environment it needs to thrive in. Some prefer a hot and dry environment while others prefer it to be cool and damp. The best way to know which one is right for your situation is to do some research on the topic or consult your local hydroponics shop.Using predator insects to combat a pest problem is the safest

method and the most natural for controlling insects. Predator bugs are harmless to plants and humans. When using these biological controls, one should never use any other pest control such as sprays or dusts, because any other method will most likely harm the good bugs as well as the bad ones.There are so many options for removing insects from the

indoor garden. There is one for every situation. Sprays, dusts, traps, homemade recipes and biological controls are all very effective, as long as the user is well-informed. Use any pesticide improperly and you and your plants can be at risk. So be smart and be safe – your plants will thank you.

An assortment of home-made pest spray recipes are exclusively available on

www.maximumyield.com under Online Extras.

“There is literally a biological predator solution for every pest problem one might encounter.″

“Predator bugs are harmless to plants and humans.″

MY

http://www.spinnerhydro.com


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Distilled water and organics have an EC of zero milliseimens (mS). Mature flowering plants typically require a nutrient solution EC of around two mS.

Humidity levels can be slightly higher than average during the pre-veg state. About 60 to 70 per cent relative humidity works best.

Worm castings slowly release safe amounts of nutrition to the root zone, which lowers the risk of fertilizer burn and makes the medium desirable for sensitive crops.

Superphosphate, a fertilizer produced by the action of concentrated sulfuric acid on powdered phosphate rock, was discovered through treating bones with sulphuric acid.

Most outdoor grown strawberry varieties are short day and will initiate flowers under short day lengths (less than 14 hours).

Many experts believe that without a means of sustainable agriculture we will exceed our planet’s carrying capacity by 2050.

Pyrethrum and its active ingredients, pyrethrin, cinerins and jasmolins, are a common organic contact pesticide. A contact pesticide kills pretty much every insect or bug that it is exposed to.

The simple act of breathing (between 30,000 to 40,000 ppm) near the controller will significantly influence the sensor.

Because of their simple structure, many types of bacteria can freeze without harm.

Aquarium chillers are only to be used for light duty cooling and can only be used indoors.

Levels of 600-800 parts per million of CO2 supply enough carbon dioxide to help catalyze a high rate of bio-activity in the developing of transplants during pre-vegging.


YOU TELL US

MY: Botanicare is becoming more involved in the green movement. You’ve recently developed the Organicare line of nutrients and supplements. What makes Organicare products green and why are they better for the environment than standard nutrients?

Treg: The Organicare Plant Nutrient System includes fertilizers and supplements that are OMRI listed for use in organic crop production. All Organicare products are manufactured using natural and organic-based ingredients. Often, standard nutrients are applied in excess resulting in toxic runoff and soil contamination over time. When used properly, Organicare's natural and organic-based ingredients help avoid contaminating water supplies and can reverse the damage done to soils caused by standard fertilizer overuse.Organicare's Plant Nutrient System starts by replacing the

Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) increasing carbon that is typically depleted by standard urea-based nitrogen ingredients and the starving microbes that break down applied synthetic chemicals. The Organicare system also inoculates the soil and replenishes the natural flora and fauna that are vital to organic, “green” gardening. In as little as a week a thriving, natural, symbiotic relationship is formed. Diverse populations of microbes start breaking down organic matter and releasing stored nutrients provided by Organicare’s natural ingredients. These microbes also break down chemical residue left behind by standard fertilizers. In a short period, the Organicare Plant Nutrient System helps create a natural, instinctual, self- sustaining, growing environment.

Maximum Yield discusses the “green movement,” and the benefits of bloom nutrients and enhancers with Treg Bradley, president and co-owner of Botanicare.

Treg Bradley, president and co-owner of Botanicare

Maximum Yield (MY): Botanicare has consistently been a leader in the hydrogardening industry for quite some time now. What keeps you out in front?

Treg: We maintain close contact with our customers and industry professionals, which allows us to understand both the needs of growers and the direction the hydrogardening industry is moving. Our driving ambition for expanding and perfecting our product line is to improve our industry's image, and firmly establish hydrogardening as a legitimate, mainstream industry, while creating effective, reliable, innovative products. Every product we manufacture includes only premium, quality ingredients combined in small batches to ensure consistent results for every growing project, every time.


MY: Do any of your plastics fit the “green” description?

Treg: Botanicare understands and recognizes that petroleum, the building block of plastic, is non-renewable and is in limited supply. To minimize our environmental impact we form our high impact, ABS plastic trays using 100 per cent recycled material internally, which is then enclosed with a minimal virgin plastic cap to prevent UV penetration and discoloration. In addition, our plastic production facilities located in the USA have implemented practices that minimize anthropogenic greenhouse gas emissions and other negative effects on our environment.

MY: You’ve just added a new product, CNS17 Ripe, to the already popular CNS17 line of simple, affordable nutrients. Is this just another bloom formula? Is it a supplement or a complete nutrient? Where does it fit into the line?

Treg: CNS17 Ripe is a complete bloom nutrient perfect for use with fast growing annuals. Ripe contains all of the essential macro- and micro-nutrients and can be used with or without the use of additional synthetic and/or organic supplements. Growers can create custom recipes tailored to the specific nutritional needs of each plant by combining any of the two CNS17 grow formulas and the three CNS17 bloom formulas.Are you growing lettuce in a NFT system? CNS17 Grow for

Hydro is the right nutrient for you. Pumpkin patch in your backyard garden? Douse your soil with CNS17 Bloom for Coco and Soil. Have some marigolds about to bloom? Use CNS17 Ripe to push their size and brilliance to the max.

MY: Speaking of bloom formulas - you have several different bloom nutrients and enhancers, including the newly reformulated Hydroplex. How should these be used? Is one better than the other?

Treg: Botanicare does offer a diverse selection of products for grower's blooming needs. We currently manufacture and distribute seven different base bloom nutrients, and now, a revamped bloom maximizing supplement, Hydroplex Bloom Maximizer. Originally available in two formulas, we have condensed the line down to one balanced formula that is effective for hydrogardens, coir fiber and soil.Hydroplex 0-10-6 Bloom Maximizer now includes a broader

range of amino acids, more trace minerals and more select, beneficial vitamins. Use Hydroplex in conjunction with any base bloom nutrient to maximize the yield potential of fruiting and flowering plants. Though most standard PK boosters are structured to create larger fruits and flowers, Hydroplex Bloom Maximizer surpasses that standard by increasing a plant’s resistance to external stresses; and amplifying enzyme, chlorophyll and essential oil production.

If you would like to have your product featured in "You Tell us," please contact [email protected] or give us a call at 250 729 2677

MY


At last a Neem Oil Leaf Shine that easily mixes with water and covers more evenly than traditional neem oil products. Hydro-Organics’ NeemShine is available in the following sizes: pints, quarts, gallons and 2.5 gallons. Ask for them with your favorite hydroponics retail store.


Continued from page 38

Only one controller manages all of your indoor garden’s climate parameters!

• The improved iGS-220* combines precision and simplicity:

• Simultaneously controls temperature, relative humidity and CO2 concentration.

• Intelligently manage up to six actions: generating CO2, venting, humidifying, dehumidifying, heating and cooling.

• Ready to use; no programming required, just adjust your set points!

• Prioritize actions according to a logical sequence.• Avoid contradictory actions (e.g. cooling and heating).• Hassle-free three year warranty• Seven days a week of free technical support.

* iGS-220 easy update also offered.Visit your local grow shop

to learn more.

Plug’n’Grow’s New iGS-221

Nature’s Solution Worm Castings are 99.4 per cent pure worm castings, dark brown color, not black (an indication of anaerobic conditions). The castings are from a non-manure feed stock and are screened to 1/8 inch. The worm casts are tiny balls of encapsulated organic matter containing an outstanding community of bacteria, fungi and protozoa. Nature’s Solution Worm Castings are approved for organic production, verified to USDA-NOP organic standards. For all indoor and outdoor applications on trees, grass, flowers, shrubs and vines. For hydroponics, nurseries, greenhouses and agriculture. For golf courses, homeowners and landscapers. Use 1/8 inch of castings as a top dressing for new or existing plants, for transplanting or planting new seeds. Use for indoor and outdoor container plant materials. Available now at indoor gardening retail stores.

Nature’s Solution WormcastingsNeemShine™ New from Hydro-Organics

http://www.ahigheryield.com


The iGS-016 is perfect for all types of indoor gardens, providing better control for lighting and irrigation and greater protection for plants and equipment.

• Light and dark cycle from 0 to 72 hours.• No timing calculation required from the user.• Programmable repetitive cycles up to 72 hours.• Adjustable activation delay.• Automatic cooling fan activation at lamps’ ignition.• Adjustable ventilation shut off delay after lamps turn off.• Adjustable lights recovery delay when a power failure

occurs (five to 30 minutes).• Automatic lamp shut-off when garden is overheated.• Lighting system failure alarm.• Dual pump strategy to activate an emergency pump in

case the main one is damaged.• Pumps and lights deactivation when nutrient solution is

too low.

Also benefit from our hassle free three year warranty and our free technical support seven days a week. Visit your local grow shop to learn more.

iGS-016 - Plug’n’Grow’s New Multi-Timer

Earth Juice Sugar Peak Line of Plant Foods

Custom Automated Products' Everlastics Net Pots provide excellent root zone aeration and drainage and are compatible with several hydroponic systems. They are available in two, three, 3.75, five and six inches. Everlastics Net Pot Lids are ideal for protecting roots from light and reducing algae growth on media. Sizes are available for all Everlastics Net Pots. Contact your local retailer for more information.

Introducing New Everlastics Net Pots and Lids from C.A.P.Earth Juice Sugar Peak

line of plant foods is a one part organic and mineral fusion plant feed and booster for hydroponics, coir and soil growing.The built-in convenience

of a single formula is that it doesn’t require any additional supplements or additives. Sugar Peak’s liquid formulations are easily adaptable to a variety of plant requirements and growing environments and are the ideal choice for the hobbyist who demands premium results without the hassle and mess of mixing multiple formulas. For indoor/outdoor plants, soil and hydroponics. The Earth Juice Sugar Peak line of plant foods includes: Leaf Growth™, Flowering™, Grand Finale™ and Briximus Maximus™.For more information on these products visit an indoor

gardening retail store near you.

http://www.hydrodynamicsintl.com



Wonder Soil® for larger planting projects in brick form that weighs a little over one pound. This expands up to 10 times the volume when water is added. It is specially formulated with fewer polymers for trafficked garden areas or larger containers. Water saving polymers reduce the need to water by up to 50 per cent.For more information visit your local grow shop.

Wonder Brick Lite®

The Ultragrow Parabolic vertical burning reflector is white powder-coated German featuring a leviton lamp holder.Ultragrow T5 Fluorescent Fixtures use highly efficient digital

electronic ballast to power the high-output T5 lamps. The Ultragrow features a low profile and emits low heat.Available now from your local indoor gardening retail store.

Ultragrow Now Offering a Full Line of Ballasts, Fixtures and Reflectors

The Ultragrow Ballast comes in 1000 and 400 watt fixtures and features a 120 or 240 volt power receptacle.

The Ultragrow Air Cooled six and eight inch reflectors have super efficient cooling

capabilities. A tempered glass lens is standard and the reflective insert provides excellent light distribution.

The Ultragrow Cool Tube six and eight inch air-cooled reflector minimizes heat build-up and comes with an internal reflector.

The exterior reflector wings enlarge the growing area. Tempered glass is capable of holding heat temperatures of 5000 BTUs.

The Ultragrow Lightwing Reflector is large and in charge! Made from 95 per cent reflective polished aluminum, this reflector will not rust, corrode, chip or discolor, and is built to last a lifetime.


A complete rich potting mix compressed into dry compact wafers. The recycled tube holds 18 - 2½ inch wafers. Each wafer will expand to fill a four to five inch pot when water is added.The wafers are composed of a special formula

with water saving polymers, worm castings and organic fertilizers that feed up to four months and promote exceptional gardening results.Use year round for all containers and outdoor

gardening applications.You can view the demonstration of the Expanding Soil

Wafers on YouTube or for more information visit an indoor gardening retailer.

Smaller Wonder Soil® wafers that are specially designed for smaller pots and seed starter cells. These wafers are enriched with worm castings, and are formulated to promote faster germination, yielding up to 40 per cent more sprouts.These wafers can also be used to boost the

soil of existing plants. Easy to shake into a pot or around an existing plant to top up the soil level and add needed nutrients.Saves water, space and labor while promoting better seed

starting and amazing gardening results.You can view the demonstration of Shake Water and Plant

on YouTube or for more information visit your nearest indoor gardening retailer store.

Wonder Soil® Expanding Soil Wafers

Shake Water and Plant® (with Worm Castings!)

Brite-Lite Group is pleased to introduce our new line of premium, RHP certified coco substrates. MO’KOKO carries the RHP stamp, the Dutch Standard of Quality for horticulture. RHP certification guarantees that quality has been

stringently monitored from raw materials to production and storage, satisfying that the highest chemical and physical requirements have been met.Available in pre-washed

and buffered 4.5 kilogram compressed blocks or loose and ready-to-use 10 gallon bags, homogeneous, stable, pest-free and easily recyclable. MO’KOKO is an excellent alternative for the environmentally conscious grower. For more information contact your local indoor gardening retail store.

Brite-Lite launches MO’KOKO Premium Select Coco SubstrateFuture Harvest’s PlantLife Products division introduces The

Hammer. The Hammer stops vertical growth and makes your plants sturdy, lush and compact with strong stems and short intervals between nodes. This product is food grade approved and is safe for human consumption. Made by growers for growers. Visit your local hydroponic retailer for more information on The Hammer.

The Hammer

http://www.co2boost.com


Ökotau Easy Green GmbH is proud to announce Aquaponics Grow Bed Media – the most essential hydroponic component for aquaponics systems. Great for growing all plants: vegetables, herbs, fruits and flowers.

• good plant and root support (sustains proper oxygen levels around the root zone)

• higher plant growth and yield• better water buffering/excellent drainage• made from 100 per cent natural clay, and round and

lightweight• pH neutral/contains no nutrient, no toxic chemicals/

compounds• medium (used within the hydroponics grow beds) will

act as a bio filter (stripping off ammonia, nitrates and phosphorus, hence the freshly cleansed water can then be recirculated back into the fish tanks)

• is available in 10 gallon bags

Commercial and hobby growers are encouraged to visit their local hydroponics and aquaponics retailer for more information.


DNF Hydro-Organic Based Grow and Bloom are one part, completely soluble, stand-alone nutrients, formulated to meet nutritional requirements of plants in hydroponics, soil or soilless media.DNF Hydro-Organic-Based is enriched with OMRI certified organics and

contains the precise formulation of minerals required for optimum growth. It is a specialty custom blend of all major, secondary and trace elements.DNF Hydro Organic Based is made with a concentrated formula of amino

acids, vitamins, humates, electrolytes and major and minor micro-minerals to give your soilless medium the fertility required for crops. For more information on DNF Hydro Organic based formulas visit your local hydroponics retailer.

Dutch Nutrient Formula Introduces Hydro-Organic-Based Grow and Bloom Formulas

All-New Active Aqua Trays

Introducing Aquaponics Grow Bed Media Adding Biology for Soil and Hydroponic Systems

Active Aqua growing trays come in two popular sizes and make growing easy with their versatility and solid construction. Both the eight by 41 inch and the 12 by

41 inch trays feature advanced channel design that eliminates channel blockage and standing water while ensuring prompt drainage. They

are perfect for holding rockwool or stonewool slabs, Hugo Blocks, Sure To Grow or any loose growing media like

peat, perlite or starter cubes. You can also place planters into the trays if you so desire. Contact your retail distributor for more information.

Adding Biology for Soil and Hydroponic Systems is a book written by Dr. Elaine Ingham and Dr. Carole Ann Rollins. Simple explanations about how to add biology to any plant growing system makes this book easy-to-read for the general public. Guidelines for conventional, sustainable and organic applications - whether growing indoors in controlled environments and soilless media or outdoors in open fields of soil. This book helps you design your growing systems and incorporate biology into your programs. Basic biology and chemistry of nutrient-cycling and plant growing environments are given, so the mystery is taken out of plant growing. Some chapters included are: 1) Synthetic or Inorganic Systems, 2) Biological/Organic Systems, 4) Roots Interface Biology and Plants, 5) Types of Beneficial Aerobic Microorganisms, 6) Environments for Maintaining Micro-organisms, 7) Microbes and Plants Form a Symbiotic Relationship, 8) Integrating Biology into Plant Growing Systems, 9) Applying Micro-organisms and 10) Testing for Biologicals. Available from Nature Technologies International in Novato, CA (www.naturetechnologies.com). Call 1-415-898-5895 to learn more.


Zyme is a comprehensive enzyme formulation specifically designed to break down and redistribute organic components such as dead and diseased roots. Zyme assists the roots through its unique enzyme profile by uptaking and assimilating necessary minerals, vitamins and other bio-stimulants. Because Zyme is designed to break down specific organic particles, it is an essential component for customers interested in reusing their growing medium. Customer feedback suggests increased yields from reused mediums treated with Zyme. Zyme helps achieve a root zone that is healthy and active; therefore, no garden should be without it.• dry formulation for maximum performance and potency

• dry formulation so you don’t have to waste money on water

• proven to be the most effective enzyme on the market today

• extremely concentrated• indefinite shelf lifeAvailable in 25 caps, 100 caps and 250

caps. For more information on Zyme visit an indoor gardening retail store.

Zyme Now Available from Green Planet Wholesale

Do you want to be included in the product spotlight? Contact the editor at 1-250-279-2677 or

email [email protected]

You can find all of our products online at www.maximumyield.com. Each month your favorite new product profiles will be featured

on our website. Get the latest information on what will make your garden grow.

MY

Its back and its better! Future Harvest is excited to bring to market our new and improved bucket system. Our new bucket system has a large 60 litre reservoir, and new shorter bucket stands that require less room for height. The new system allows for drainage to be hooked up below or to the side of the buckets. Comes complete with everything you need to get growing. Contact your local hydro shop for more information.

FHD Bucket System

Eco-Root New from Green Planet WholesaleEco-Root Dip Gel contains 16

mycorrhizal fungi to build a natural microbial system in and around plant roots to enhance growth and vigor. Specially formulated amendments and a starch based gel for improved water store and uptake. Store in a cool, dry area. Not to be used with chlorinated water or hydrogen peroxide.• increases water and nutrient storage and uptake• promotes extensive root system and soil structure• will outperform any other rooting compound on the market

• safe for food crops• no harmful chemicals (OMRI listed)• five year shelf lifeAvailable in five grams, 12.5 grams, and 25 grams. For

more information on Eco-Root visit your local indoor gardening grow shop.

http://www.greenair.com

AVANT-GARDENING

Community Supported AgriCulture:

FOOD WITH THE FARMER'S FACE ON IT

Natural food cooperatives are a form of Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) where people band together to source organic produce grown locally by small farms and companies. It usu-ally requires a little work on the cooperative members' part; but there are other variations with a more direct connection with a farmer.

How Community Supported Agriculture worksIn the direct model, a farmer will offer shares of the farm's crop or produce to the public. The cost of the share, membership or subscription will vary widely. In return, the shareholder, mem-ber or subscriber will receive produce on a regular basis from the farm. Some farmers will offer choices based on customer preferences, while others will take more of a pot luck approach.Some CSA farms go beyond fruit and vegetables, offering eggs,

dairy, meat and poultry. Sometimes farmers will join forces in order to provide a wider range of food options that CSA share-holders can select from.

A brief history of modern CSAAccording to EarthRise Farm, a CSA and educational farm in Min-nesota, the CSA concept can be traced to Japan in the mid 1960s.

Food cooperatives have been in existence in Ja-

pan since the late 1800s, but in 1965, a group of Japanese

women who wanted to source fresh produce for their families more directly

approached a local farmer with the idea. The farmer agreed and a contract was drawn. In Japan, CSA

is known as “teikei,” which translates to “food with the farmer's face on it.”

A lecture outline from The Center for Agroecology and Sus-tainable Food Systems states the 10 founding principles of the teikei system in Japan are:

1. mutual assistance 2. intended production 3. accepting the produce 4. mutual concession in the price setting decision 5. deepening friendships 6. self-distribution 7. democratic management 8. learning among each group 9. maintaining the appropriate group scale 10. principle of steady development

by Michael Bloch


For farmers, the CSA model allows them to receive income before planting and harvesting commences. It can help with financial and crop planning for the year ahead. Instead of being held hostage by large corporations, the farmer can also have more control over operations and spread the risk by having many individual customers or small buyer groups.

How is the food distributed?Depending on the arrangement, the food may need to be picked up from the farm, but some farmers will transport it to a drop-off point in a nearby town or city.

CSA caveat emptorCaveat emptor is Latin for “let the buyer beware.” An important aspect about getting involved with a CSA is the willingness to accept risks, those being:• The farm may not produce the items you want.• The farm may not produce anything at all during some

seasons.

For example, there may be a drought or tornado that wipes out the farm's crop. Like the farmer, this is the risk that the CSA shareholder will need to take. In a good or average year, the shareholder will likely receive far more than their money's worth, but in a bad year, perhaps nothing at all. You'll likely be asked to sign a contract when joining a CSA farm acknowledg-ing this issue, so as with any contract, read over it carefully.

Finding a CSA farm near you In the USA, try www.localharvest.org/csaYou might also want to try a more specific search on Google

using your location name. If you can't find a CSA near you, perhaps contact farms reasonably close by to ask them whether they would consider the concept!

The first documented CSA farm in the U.S. commenced in 1985 in western Massachusetts. Within four years, there were 37 CSA operations in the U.S. and Canada. By 1994, the number of CSAs in the U.S. was around 400. Data collected in 2007 by the U.S. Department of Agriculture indicates that 12,549 farms in the United States reported marketing products through a CSA arrangement.

Benefits of Community Supported AgricultureFor the consumer, participation in CSA means ultra-fresh pro-duce at very reasonable prices. Often farms offering a CSA pro-gram will also be environmentally aware, meaning the produce may be organic, or grown/raised with minimal chemicals.One of the great dangers in the modern world of food is that

we tend not to know or care about the types of resources and practices that go into creating it. Food production is becoming an increasingly heavy burden on the environment, often focus-ing on quantity rather than quality. CSAs provide consumers with a greater connection with their food and this familiarity tends to create more interest in how their food is grown and the work involved.CSA farms also often encourage visits from families, which can

be a great educational experience not only for adults, but for children too.

About the AuthorMichael Bloch is the owner and editor of GreenLiving-Tips.com, an online resource powered by renewable energy offering a wide variety of earth friendly tips, green guides, advice and environment-related news to help consumers and businesses reduce costs, consumption and environmen-tal impact.

MY

In existence in Japan since the late 1800s, CSA has provided families with local, fresh produce as well as community develop-ment and education.

An important aspect of CSA is accepting the fact that the farm may not produce items you want or it may not produce anything during adverse growing seasons.



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ALABAMAAlabama Organics3348 Bethel Road,Valley Head, AL 35989256-635-0802

ALASKABrown’s Electrical Supply365 Industrial Way,Anchorage, AK 99501907-272-2259Far North Garden Supply300 Centaur Street,Wasilla, AK 99654907-376-7586Far North Garden Supply2834 Boniface ParkwayAnchorage, AK 99504907-333-3141Holmtown Nursery Inc.1301 - 30th Avenue,Fairbanks, AK 99701907-451-8733

ARIZONAACI Hydroponics1325 South Park Lane,Tempe, AZ 85282800-633-2137Homegrown Hydroponics601 East Broadway Road,Tempe, AZ 85282480-377-9096Homegrown Hydroponics1702 East Prince Road,Tucson, AZ 85719520-323-1212Natural Pools & Gardens2143 North Country Suite C,Tucson, AZ 85716520-323-2627Sea of Green Hydroponics815 W. University Drive, Suite 110,Tempe, AZ 85281800-266-4136Sea of Green West2340 W. Bell Road, Suite 116,Phoenix, AZ 85023602-504-8842Sea of Green Hydroponics402 North 4th Avenue,Tucson, AZ 85705520-622-6344

ARKANSASFermentables3915 Crutcher Street,N. Little Rock, AR 72118501-758-6261Mickey’s Mercantile1303 Highway 65 South,Clinton, AR 72031501-412-0214Old Soul Organics and More1771 Crossover Road,Fayetteville, AR 72701479-444-6955

CALIFORNIA101 Hydroponics2550 Vineyard Avenue, #200Oxnard, CA 93030805-988-6537A Plant Hydroponics & Organics1604 Babcock Street, Costa Mesa, CA 95521949-642-7776A Fertile World (Eureka)65th Street, Eureka, CA 95501707-444-0200

A Fertile World (Fortuna)610 7th Street,Fortuna, CA 95540707-725-0700Abundant Hydroponics LLC1611 Shop Street, #1-A,South Lake Tahoe, CA 96150530-54 HYDROAdvanced Garden Supply2660 Lake Tahoe Boulevard,Building C, Unit 9,S. Lake Tahoe, CA 96150530-541-4769Advanced Garden Supply3113 Alhambra Drive, Unit F,Cameron Park, CA 95682,530-676-2100Advanced Hydroponics17808 Sierra Highway,Canyon Country, CA 91351661-299-1603AG Natural403 Idaho Maryland Road,Grass Valley, CA 95945530-274 0990Alameda County Hydroponics20910 Redwood Road, Suite C,Castro Valley, CA 94546All Seasons Hydroponics17614 Chatsworth Street,Granada Hills, CA 91344818-368-4388Alternative Hydro3870 East, Colorado Boulevard,Pasadena, CA 91107888-50-HYDROAlways Sunny Hydroponics708 W. Swain RoadStockton, CA 95207209-473-9827American Hydroponics286 South G Street,Arcata, CA 95521800-458-6543Anthony’s Garden & Lighting Supply30 Ridge Road, Suites 8 & 9Sutter Creek, CA 95685209-267-5416Anything Grows10607 W. River Street, Building 3 Suite C,Truckee, CA 96161530-582-0479Atwater Hydroponics3350 Glendale Boulevard,Los Angeles, CA 90039323-663-8881Auburn Organic4035 Grass Valley Highway,Auburn, CA 95602530-823-8900B & S Gardening Supplies590 Commerce Court,Manteca, CA 95336209-239-8648Bakersfield Hydroponics2408 Brundage Lane, Suite BBakersfield, CA 93304661-323-7333Bare Roots Hydroponics1615 East Cypress, #5Redding, CA 96002530-244-2215Beginning HydroponicsPO Box 1232,Corona, CA 92787951-735-4446Berkeley Indoor Garden844 University AvenueBerkeley, CA 94710510-549-2918

Berkeley’s Secret Garden921 University Avenue,Berkeley, CA 94710510-486-0117

Best Coast Growers4417 Glacier Avenue Suite C,San Diego, CA 92120800-827-1876

Best Yield Garden Supply3503 West Temple Avenue, Unit A,Pomona, CA 91768909-839-0505

Better Grow Hydro Pasadena1271 E. Colorado Boulevard,Pasedena, CA 91106626 737 6612

Better Grow Hydro Los Angeles5554 Bandini Boulevard,Bell, CA 91106323-510-2700; 877 640 GROW

Brentwood Hydroponics & Organics560 Valdry Ct #85Brentwood, CA 94513925-634-6704

BWGS West2247 North Plaza DriveVisalia, CA 93291888-316-1306

California Hydro Garden1043 South Glendora Avenue, Suite AWest Covina, CA 91790626-813-0868

California Hydroponics310 Coral Street, Suite CSanta Cruz, CA 95060831-423-4769

Caliponics Inc.2030 Viborg Road, Unit 110Solvang, CA 93463877-PONICS9

Central Coast Hydrogarden1951 Santa Barbara Street,San Luis Obispo, CA 93401805-544-GROW

Citrus Heights Hydrogarden8043 Greenback LaneCitrus Heights, CA 95610916-728-4769

City Farmer’s Nursery4832 Home Avenue,San Diego, CA 92105619-284-6358

Clover Hydroponics & Garden Supply2626 South Main Street,Lakeport, CA 95453707-263-4000

CNG Garden Supplies22 Ricknbacker Circle,Livermore, CA 94551209-836-5550

Coca’s Central Valley Hydroponics116 West Orangeburg Avenue,Modesto, CA 95350209-567-0590

Concord Indoor Garden2771 Clayton Road,Concord, CA 94519925-671-2520

Conejo Hydroponics3481 Old Conejo Road #106Newbury Park, CA 91320805-480-9596

Conrad Hydroponics Inc.14915 Unit E, Olympic Drive,Clearlake, CA 95422707-994 3264

MAXIMUM YIELDdistributors


Constantly Growing6200 Enterprise Drive, Suite ADiamond Springs, CA 95619530-642-9710

Constantly Growing4343 Hazel Avenue,Fair Oaks, CA 95628916-962-0043

Constantly Growing - Davis123 D StreetDavis, CA 95616530-756-4774

D&S Garden Supplies17-130 Doolittle DriveSan Leandro, CA 94577510-430-8589

Dazey’s Supply3082 Redwood Drive,Redway, CA 95560707-923-3002

Direct Hydroponics Wholesale14228 Alberts Way,Chino, CA 91710909-606-5885

Dirt Cheap Hydroponics17975 H Highway 1,Fort Bragg, CA 95437707-964-4211

Discount Hydroponics4745 Hiers Avenue,Riverside, CA 92505877-476-9487

Eel River Hydroponics & Soil Supply164 Dinsmore Drive,Fortuna, CA 95540707-726-0395

El Centro Hydro & Brew Supply Inc.591 main Street, Suite N-2El Centro, CA 92243760-235-4985

Elite Horticulture Supply22330 Sherman Way, C13,Canoga Park, CA 91303818-347-5172

Emerald Garden8249 Archibald Avenue,Ranch Cucamanga, CA 91730909-466-3796

Emerald Garden13325 South Highway 101,Hopland, CA 95482707-744-8300

Emerald Garden307 East Perkins Street,Ukiah, CA 95482707-463-2510

Evergreen Hydroponics923 N. Central Avenue, Suite B,Upland, CA 91786909-946-7100

Everything Green Hydroponics915 Texas Street,Fairfield, CA 94533707-432-0774

Everything Green448 Georgia Street,Vallejo, CA 94590707-647-0774

Extreme Hydroponics11479 San Fernando Road C,San Fernando, CA 91340818-898-0915

EZ Green Hydroponics7017 Reseda Boulevard,Reseda, CA 91335818-776-9076

Farm Hydroponics, The1950 Lake Tahoe Boulevard #3,S. Lake Tahoe, CA 96150530-541-3276

Foothill Hydroponics10705 Burbank Boulevard,N. Hollywood, CA 91601818-760-0688Foothills Hydrogarden3133 Penryn Road,Penryn, CA 95663916-270-2413Four Seasons Garden Center1737 Broadway,Oakland, CA 94612510-832-2545Full Sun Supply3535 Industrial Drive, Unit B-3Santa Rosa, CA 95403877-FULL-SUNFunny Farms Hydroponics963 Transport Way, #12Petaluma, CA 94954707-775-3111G & G Organics and Hydroponics901 W. Victoria Street Unit D,Compton, CA 90220310-632-0122Garden Connection, The 2145 Park Avenue, Unit 2Chico, CA 95928530-342-7762Garden Depot, The203 Commerce Street, Suite 101Lodi, CA 95240209-339-9950Garden Highway Garden Supply598 Garden Highway #22Yuba City, CA 95991530-755-2877Garden Shed, The1136 El Camino RealSan Carlos, CA650-508-8600Garden Spout, The44800 Highway 101,Laytonville, CA 95454707-984-7260Garden Spout, The630 S. Main Street,Willits, CA 95490707-456-0196Garden Warehouse6355 Scarlet Court, #2,Dublin, CA 94568925-556-3319Go Big Hydroponics4501 Van Nuys Boulevard,Sherman Oaks, CA 91403818-789-3341Golden Gecko Garden Center, The4665 Marshall Road,Garden Valley, CA 95633530-333-2394Golden Harvest Hydroponics & Garden Supply8626 Lower Sacramento Road #48,Stockton, CA 95210209-951-3550Gottagrow Garden Supply769 Wilson Street,Santa Rosa, CA 95404707-544-7782Grass Roots Hydroponics31877 Corydon, Suite 150Lake Elsinore, CA 92530951-245-2390Grass Valley Hydrogarden12506 Loma Rica Drive,Grass Valley, CA 95945530-477-2996Green Acres Hydroponics1215 Striker Avenue, Suite 180,Sacramento, CA 95834916-419-4394Green Coast Hydroponics3560 State Street,Santa Barbara, CA 93105805-898-9922

Green Coast Hydroponics2405 Mira Mar Avenue,Long Beach, CA 90815562-627-5636

Green Coast Hydroponics496 Meats AvenueOrange, CA 92865714-974-4769

Green Coast Hydroponics11510 Whittier BoulevardWhittier, CA 90601562-699-4201

Greenfire Sacramento3230 Auburn Boulevard,Sacramento, CA 95821916-485-8023

Green Joint Ventures61 Tarp Circle,Salinas, CA 93901831-998-8628

GreenLeaf Hydroponics2212 Artesia Boulevard,Redondo Beach, CA 90278310-374-2585

Green Logic Garden Supply860 Piner Road, #38,Santa Rosa, CA 95403707-843-3156

Greenmile Hydroponic Garden Supply1480 South E. Street, Suite D,San Bernardino, CA 92408909-885-5919

Green Thumb Hydroponics35 Quinta Court, Suite B,Sacramento, CA 95823916-689-6464

Green Thumb Lighting & Garden1647 W. Sepulveda Boulevard, Unit 5,Torrance, CA 90501888-326-GROW

Greentrees Hydroponics Inc.2581 Pioneer Avenue, Unit DVista, CA 92081760-598-7551

GreenWay Hydroponics11510 Whittier Boulevard,Whittier, CA 90601562-699-4201

Grodan Inc.5152 Commerce AvenueMoorpark, CA 93021541-646-8245

Grow A Lot Hydroponics, San Diego1591 N. Cuyamaca Street,El Cajon, CA 92020619-749-6777

Growers Choice Hydroponics1100 Carver Road,Modesto, CA 95350209-522-2727

Growers Choice Hydroponics16754 East 14th Street,San Leandro, CA 94578510-278-6200

Grow It Yourself Gardens401 Sunset Drive, Suite L,Antioch, CA 94509925-755-GROW

Grow king Hydroponics932 South San Pedro Street,Los Angeles, CA 90015213-689-8982

Grow Light Express5318 East Second Street suite 164,Long Beach, CA 90803888-318-GROW

Grow Your Own3401 Traval Street,San Francisco, CA 94116415-731-2115


Grunder Family Organics & Hydroponics12321 Magnolia Avenue, Suite C,Riverside, CA 92503877-468-7974H20 Gardening355 West 7th Street,San Pedro, CA 90731310-514-1416Hahn’s Lighting260 E. VA Suite 1,San Jose, CA 95112408-295-1755Harvest Hydroponics6650 Merchandise Way Suite B,Diamond Springs, CA 95619530-622-5190High Desert Hydroponics13631 Pawnee Road, #7Apple Valley, CA 92308760-247-2090Hi-Tech Gardening5327 Jacuzzi Street, #282,Richmond, CA 94804510-524-4710Hollywood Hydroponics and Organics5109 1/2 Hollywood Boulevard,Los Angeles, CA 90027-6105323-662-1908Hooked up Hydroponics339 S. Golden State Boulevard,Turlock, CA 95380209-668-1300House of Hydro224 Weller Street, #B,Petaluma, CA 94952707-762-4769Humboldt Electronics2547 California Street,Eureka, CA 95501707-443-9408Humboldt Hydroponics1302 Union Street,Eureka, CA 95501707-443-4304Humboldt Hydroponics2174 Pine Street,Redding, CA 96001530-241-7454Humboldt Nutrients65th Street,Eureka, CA 95501888-420-7770Hydroasis2643 S. Fairfax Avenue,Los Angeles, CA 90232888-355-4769Hydrobrew1319 South Coast Highway,Oceanside, CA 92054760-966-1885; 877-966-GROWHydro Depot5665 Redwood Drive, #B,Rohnert Park, CA 94928707-584-2384Hydrogarden Delight13762 Doolittle Drive,San Leandro, CA 94577510-903-1808Hydrogarden Mendocino County1240 North Main Street,Fort Bragg, CA 95437707-962-9252Hydro king105 Hartnell Avenue, Suite C and D,Redding, CA 96002888-822-8941Hydro king2540 South Whitman Place,Chico, CA 959282530-893-GROW (4769)

Hydro-Logic Purification Systems2825 Mattison Lane,Suite 103,Santa Cruz, CA 95065888 H2O LOGIC

HydroPacific - Hydroponics & Garden Supplies351 C Hastings Av.,Ukiah, CA 95482707-467-0400

Hydroponic Connection, The316 Fillmore Street,San Francisco, CA 94117415-864-9376

Hydroponic Connection Warehouse, The1995 Evans Avenue,San Francisco, CA 94124415-824-9376

Hydroponics 4 Less41669 Winchester Avenue,Temecula, CA 92590800-A1-HYDRO

Hydroponics Plus2250 Commerce Avenue, Suite CConcord, CA 94520925-691-7615

Hydroponics unlimited.com2728 E. PalmdaleBoulevard #121Palmdale, CA 93550661-266-3906

Hydrostar Hydroponics & Organics1307 W. Sixth Street, #211,Corona, CA 92882951-479-8069

Igrow Hydro2280 Veatch Street,Oroville, CA 95965530-534-4476

Igrow Hydro9000 Atkinson Street,Roseville, CA 95678916-773-4476

Inland Empire Hydrogarden1301-C South State Street,San Jancinto, CA 92853886-72-HYDRO

Inland Empire Hydrogarden28822 Old Town Front St. #206Temecula, CA 92590886-74-HYDRO

Innovative Growing Solutions (IGS)7922-B Miramar Road,San Diego, CA 92126858-578-IGS7

kaweah Grower Supply1106 1/2 N. Ben Maddox Way,Visalia, CA 93293559-652-4937

kern Hydroponics2408 Brundage Lane, Suite B,Bakersfield, CA 93304661-323-7333

Lazy Gardeners Hydroponics ‘N’ More14626 East Whittier Boulevard,Whittier, CA 90605562-945-0909

Let it Grow1228 2nd Street,Crescent City, CA 95531707-464-9086

Let it Grow160 Westwood Center,Arcata, CA 95521707-822-8733

Liquid Gardens21752 Devonshire Street,Chatsworth, CA 91311818-718-7624

Long Beach Hydroponics & Organics1772 Clark Avenue,Long Beach, CA 90815562-498-9525Lumatek Digital Ballasts33 Commercial Boulevard, Suite BNovato, CA 94949415-233-4273M&M Garden Supply2509 West Lane, Suite BStockton, CA 95205209-939-0664M&M Garden Supply22540 D Foothill Boulevard, 2509 Westlane Suite BStockton, CA 95205Marin Hydroponics1219 Grant Avenue,Novato, CA 94945415-897-2197Medicine Man Farms1602 53rd Avenue,Oakland, CA 94601707-980-0456Mendocino Garden ShopPO Box 1301, 44720 Maint Street (at Hwy. 1),Mendocino, CA 95460707-937-3459Mendocino Greenhouse & Garden Supply900 East School Way,Redwood Valley, CA 95470707-485-0668Merced Hydroponics1635 M Street,Merced, CA 95340209-726-4769M.G.S.22540 D Foothill Boulevard,Hayward, CA 94541510-582-0900Monterey Bay Horticulture Supply224B Reindollar Avenue,Marina, CA 93933831-38-HYDROMonterey Bay Hydroponics and Organics81 Hangar Way, #1,Watsonville, CA 95076831-761-9999Myron L Company2450 Impala Drive,Carlsband, CA 9210-7226760-438-2021Mystic Gardens8484 Florin Road, #110,Sacramento, CA 95828916-381-2464National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply1950 C South Grove Avenue,Ontario, CA 91761888-888-3319Nature’s Secret Garden and Supply41469 Albrae Street,Fremont, CA 94577510-623-8393NorCal CreationsPO Box 28,Cedar Ridge, CA 95924Nor Cal Hydroponics4837 Geary Boulevard,San Francisco, CA 94118 415-933-8262Northcoast Horticulture Supply122 West 4th Street, Suite BEureka, CA 95501707-444-9999Northcoast Horticulture Supply1580 Nursery Way, Suite QMcKinleyville, CA 95519707-839-9998



Northcoast Hydrogardens3450 North State Street,Ukiah, CA 95482707-462-7214No Stress Hydroponics7543 Santa Monica Boulevard,West Hollywood, CA 90046323-845-9874One Stop Hydroponics12822 Victory BoulevardNorth Hollywood, CA 91606818-980-5855Oracle Garden Supply5755 Oberlin Drive, Suite 100San Diego, CA 92121858-558-6006Orange County Hydroponics12687 Beach Boulevard, Unit H,Stanton, CA 90680714-893-9493Organic Bountea1919 Dennis Lane,Santa Rosa, CA 95403800-798-0765Orsa Organix111 Willow Street,Redwood City, CA 94063650-369-1269Pacific Beach Hydroponics1852 Garnet Avenue,San Diego, CA 92109858-274-2559Pacific Coast Hydroponics4147 Sepulveda Boulevard,Culver City, CA 90230310-313-1354Pacific Garden Supply128 H Carlos Drive,San Rafael, CA 94903Palmdale Hydroponics2728 East PalmdaleBoulevard Suite 108,Palmdale, CA 93550661-266-9908Palm Springs Hydroponics4651 Ramon Road,Palm Springs, CA 92264760-327-ROOTPlant It Earth2279 Market Street,San Francisco, CA 94114415-626-5082Plant Life32 Race Street,San Jose, CA 95126408-283-9191Plant-N-Grow1602 53rd Avenue,Oakland, CA 94601707-980-0456Precision Hydroponics132 Kennedy Avenue,Campbell, CA 95008408-866-8176Pro Gardening Systems3715 Santa Rosa Avenue #2,Santa Rosa, CA 95407707-585-8633Pro Gardening Systems4936 Highway 12,Santa Rosa, CA 95472707-538-8402Pro Gardening Systems765 Petaluma Avenue,Sebastopol, CA 95472707-829-7252Redway Feed & Grain Supply290 Briceland Road,Redway, CA 95560707-923-2765

Roots Grow Supply1330 North Hulbert, #101Fresno, CA 93728559-840-0122Sac Hydroponics9529 Folson Boulevard, Suite CSacramento, CA 95827916-369-7968San Diego Hydroponics East County11649 Riverside Drive,Suite 141,Lakeside, CA 92040619-562-3276San Diego Hydroponics Beach Cities4122 Napier Street,San Diego, CA 92110619-276-0657San Diego Hydroponics North802 N. Twin Oaks Valley Road #108San Marcos, CA 92069760-510-1444San Francisco Hydro123 Tenth Street,San Francisco, CA 94103Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - West815 Almar Avenue, Suite K,Santa Cruz, CA 95060831-466-9000Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - East4000 Cordelia Lane #4,Soquel, CA 95073831-475-9900Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - North6241 Graham Hill Road,Felton, CA 95018831-335-9990Santee Hydroponics7973A Mission Gorge Road,Santee, CA 92071619-270-8649Seaside Hydrogarden1070 Highway 101 North,Crescent City, CA 95531707-465-3520Skywide Import & Export Ltd.5900 Lemon Hill Avenue,Sacramento, CA 95824916-383-2369Socal Hydroponics1727-B Oceanside Boulevard,Oceanside, CA 92054760-439-1084South Bay Hydroponics and Organics569 East Evelyn Avenue,Mountain View, CA 94041650-968-4070South Bay Hydroponics and Organics - San Jose1185 South Bascom Avenue,San Jose, CA 95128408-292-4040South County Hydroponics22511 Aspan Street, Suite ELake Forest, CA 92630949-837-8252South Valley Hydroponics320 Kishimura Drive, #3Gilroy, CA 950201-866-848-GROWSparetime Supply208 E. San Francisco Avenue,Willits, CA 95490-4006707-459-6791Specialty Garden Center1970 East Vista Way, Suite 10,Vista, CA 92084760-758-4769Sun-In Hydroponics1257A Cleveland Avenue,Santa Rosa, CA 95401707-578-5747Sunland Hydroponics8300 Foothill Boulevard,Sunland, CA 91040818-352-5300

Supersonic Hydroponic and Organic Garden Supply850 Shasta Avenue, Suite BMorro Bay, CA 93442805-772-5869Supersonic Hydroponic and Organic Garden Supply3850 Ramada Drive, Unit D2Paso Robles, CA 93446805-434-2333Sweet Leaf Hydroponics1611 Sebastobol Road,Santa Rosa, CA 95407707-575-GROW (4237)Sylvandale Gardens77 Avenue, Of The Giants,Phillipsville, CA 95559707-923-3606Tahoe Garden Supply645 Westlake Boulevard, Suite 2, PO Box 487Tahoe City, CA 96145530-581-3200Tell 2 Friends Indoor Gardening62 Sutherland Drive,Auburn, CA 95603530-889-8171The Green Shop66420 Mooney Blvd., Suite 1Visalia, CA 93277559-688-4200The Hydro Source671 E. Edna PlaceCovina, CA 91723877 HYDRO 82; 626-915-3128The Shop6542 Front Street,Forestville, CA 95436707-887-2280Thrive Hydroponics70 A West North Street,Healdsburg, CA 95446707-433-4068Thunders Hydroponic Center1729 Yosemite Boulevard,Medesco, CA 95354TNC Supply9490 Main Street, P.O. Box 763Upper Lake, CA 95485707-275-9565Tower Garden Supply3 E Olive,Fresno, CA 93728559-495-1140Tradewinds Wholeslae Garden Supplies1235 Striker Avenue #180,Sacramento, CA 95834888-557-8896Tulare County Growers Supply435 W. Noble Avenue, Unit A,Farmerville, CA 93223559-732-8247Turbo Grow1889 San Pablo Avenue,Pinole, CA 94564510-724-1291Two Chix Garden Supply1230 Yuba Street,Marysville, CA 95901530-923-2536under The Sun12638 Foothill Boulevard,Clearlake Oaks, CA 95423707-998-GROW (4769)urban Gardens22516 Ventura Boulevard,Woodland Hills, CA 91364818-876-0222urban Gardens unlimited704 Filbert Street,San Francisco, CA 94133415-421-4769uS Orchid & Hydroponic Supplies1621 South Rose Avenue,Oxnard, CA 93033805-247-0086


Valley Garden Solutions Inc.15650 Nordhoff Avenue, Suite 104,North Hills, CA 91345818-336-0041

Wai kula Hydrogardens5297 Linda Vista Road,San Diego, CA 92110619-299-7299

Weather Top Nursery44901 Harmon Drive,Laytonville, CA 95454707-984-6385

We Grow Hydroponics3350 East Los Angeles Avenue,Simi Valley, CA 93063805-624-4566

West Coast Growers Hydroponics13481 Colifax Highway,Grass Valley, CA 95945888-924-4769

West Coast Hydroponics, Inc.27665 Forbes Road, Unit 10Laguna Niguel, CA 92677949-348-2424

Western Auto1156 Main Street,Fortuna, CA 95540707-725-1189

COLORADOBath Nursery & Garden Center2000 E. Prospect,Fort Collins, CO 80525970-484-5022

Big Tomato, The14440 E. 6th Avenue,Aurora, CO 80011303-364-4769

Big Tomato, The3000 Main Avenue,Durango, CO 81301970-375-1238

Boulder County CaregiversPO Box 7406,Golden, CO 80403303-495-2195

Boulder Hydroponics1630 N. 63rd Street, #5,Boulder, CO 80301303-415-0045

Cultivate Hydroponics & Organics7777 W. 38th Avenue, #A120A, Wheat Ridge, CO 80033303-954-9897

Denver Hydroponic & Organic Center6810 North Broadway, Unit DDenver, CO 80221303-650-0091

Desert Bloom Hydroponics445 Pitkin Avenue,Grand Junction, CO 81501970-245-6427

Garden Tech737 Garden of the Gods Road,Colorado Springs, CO 80907719-278-9777

Greenhouse Tech917 East Fillmore,Colorado Springs, CO 80907719-634-0637

Grow Store South, The5050 S. Federal Boulevard, #37,Englewood, CO 80110303-738-0202

Grow Store, The8644 W. Colfax Avenue,Lakewood, CO 80215888-510-0350

Head Start Hydroponics & Organic Gardening Emporium34500 US Highway 6, Unit B-9,North Edwards, CO 81632970-569-3139Hydro-Grow Supply644 Peterson Road,Colorado Springs, CO 80915719-596-2600Hydro Shack, The220 Main Street, Suite EFrisco, CO 80443970-668-0359Indoor Paradise Hydroponics309 S. Summit View, Unit 17,Fort Collins, CO 80524-1462970-221-3751Rocky Mountain Lighting and Hydroponics7100 N. Broadway, Suite 3DDenver, CO 80221303-428-5020Way To Grow3201 E. Mulberry Street,Fort Collins, CO 80524970-484-4769Way To Grow6395 Gunpark Drive,Boulder, CO 80301303-473-4769

CONNECTICUTHarvest Moon Hydroponics775 Silver Lane,East Hartford, CT 06118860-568-4067LiquidSun® CT10C South Main Street,East Windsor, CT 06088860-254-5757Organix Hydroponics749 Saybrook Road, (Tradewinds Plaza)Middletown, CT 06457860-343-1923

FLORIDAAbsolute Growing Solutions Inc.7307 49th Street,Pinellas Park, FL 33781727-541-3333Advanced Hydro Gardens4960 NW 165 Street, Suite B-4,Miami, FL 33014866-97-HYDROAtlantic Hydroponics430 Count Street,Melbourne, FL 32901321-821-1535Blossoms Experience, The7207 NW 54th Street,Miami, FL 33166866-452-4769Cultivating Eden Hydroponic Supplies946 18th Avenue SW,Vero Beach, FL 32962772-564-8880East Coast Hydroponics & Organics461 Forrest Avenue, Suite 105Coca, FL 32922321-243-6800Eden Garden Supply5044 N. Palafox Street,Pensacola, FL 32505850-439-1299Esposito Garden Center2743 Capital Circle NE,Tallahassee, FL 32308850-386-2114Falero Hardware & Hydroponics6758 W. Flager Street,Miami, FL 33144305-266-8878

Florida Garden Supplies2692 W 79 Street,Hialeah, FL 330161-800-931-5215Florida Garden Supplies8020 Belvedere Road,Unit 4,West Palm Beach,FL 33411561-333-1088Future Farms Inc., The14291 SW 120th Street, Suite 105Miami, FL 33186305-382-2757Gardener’s Edge Gainesville5000 NW 34th Street, Suite 13,Gainesville, FL 32605352-375-2769Gardener’s Edge Jacksonville5325 Fairmont Street,Jacksonville, FL 32207904-398-8012Gold Coast Hydroponics1539 SW 21st Avenue,Fort Lauderdale, FL 333121-800-780-7371Gold Coast Hydroponics4241 SW 71st Avenue,Miami, FL 331551-800-780-6805Grace’s Hydro-Organic Garden Center8877 North 56th StreetTampa, FL 33617813-514-9376Green Thumb Hydroponics Supplies13482 North Cleveland Avenue,Fort Meyers, FL 33903239-997-4769GreenTouch Hydroponics Inc.5011 S State Road 7, Suite 104Davie, FL 33314954-316-8815Grower's Choice & Hydroponics11855 North Main Street,Jackonsonville, FL 32218904-683-4517Growing Garden Inc., The12811 SW 42nd Street,Miami, FL 33175305-559-0309Harvest Time Hydroponics14414 N. Florida Avenue,Tampa, FL 33613813-264-7101Healthy Gardens and Supply of Florida, Inc.196 East Nine Mile Road, Suite F,Pensacola, FL 32534850-912-4545High Tech Garden Supply2975 West New Haven Avenue,Melbourne, FL 32901321-821-0853Hydro For Less9545 Southwest 72nd Street,Miami, FL 33173305-598-4311Hydroponics International Inc.7029-10 Commonwealth Avenue,Jacksonville, FL 32220904-693-6554Hydroponics of Tampa120 W. Bougain Villea,Tampa, FL 33612813-333-6828Hydro Terra Corp.924 North Federal Highway,Hollywood, FL 33020954-920-0889Palm Beach Hydroponics Supply, Inc.968 N. Congress Avenue,West Palm Beach, FL 33409561-296-6161



Simply Hydroponics & Organics7949 Ulmerton Road,Largo, FL 33773727-531-5355Simply Hydroponics & Organics (North)3642 South Suncoast Boulevard,Homosassa, FL 34448352-628-2655Stoney Hydro @ Schiro's Barn n Garden Supplies7812 Causeway Boulevard,Tampa, FL 33619813-626-0902Sunshine Hydroponics Garden Center1420 East Altomonte Drive,Altamonte Spring, FL 32701407-830-GROWSunshine Hydroponics Garden Center5561 S. Orange Blossom Trail,Orlando, FL 32809407-859-7728Sunshine Hydroponics Garden Center6100 Hanging Moss Road,Suite 500,Orlando, FL 32807888-833-GROWWorm’s Way Florida4412 North 56th Street,Tampa, FL 33610800-283-9676; 813-621-1792

GEORGIAAtlantis Hydroponics1422 Woodmont Lane, #4,Atlanta, GA 30318404-367-0052Atlantis Hydroponics2561 West Point Avenue,College Park, GA 30337678-510-0032Flora Hydroponics Inc.2475 Jefferson Road, Suite 600Athens, GA 30607866-404-0551Savannah Hydroponics & Organics4107 Eighth Street, Suite CGarden City, GA 31408912-349-4030

HAWAIIAqua Plant Hawaii / kahala Hydroponics4224 Wailae, Suite 1A,Honolulu, HI 96816808-735-8665Ohana Greenhouse & Garden Supply300 Hukilike Street, #2M,Kahalui, HI 96732808-871-6393Pahoa Feed & Fertilizer15-2754 Old Government Road,Pahoa, HI 96778808-965-9955

IDAHOBoise Hydroponics614 North Orchard Street,Boise, ID 83706208-344-3053Greenthumb Greenhouses5895 Ensign Avenue,Boise, ID 83714

ILLINOISAerostar Global824 South Kay Avenue,Addison, IL 60101Alternative Garden SupplyA-615 Industrial Drive,Gary, IL 60013800-444-2837Big Grow Hydroponics9225 Trinity Drive,Lake In The Hills, IL 60156Brew and Grow1824 North Besly Court,Chicago, IL 60622773-395-1500

Brew and Grow3224 South Alpine Road,Rockford, IL 61109815-874-5700

Brew and Grow2379 Bode Road, Schaumburg, IL 60194847-885-8282

Fertile Ground463 West MacArthur Drive,Cottage Hills, IL 62018618-259-5500

Green Fields8137 N. Milwaukee,Niles, IL 60714847-965-5056

Grow Big Hydroponics7817 B North 2nd Street,Manchesney Park, IL 61115815-637-4769

Hydrocork20647 Renwick Road,Crest Hill, IL 60435815-838-0100

kreation’s Indoor Gardening Center3427 Old Chatman Road,Springfield, IL 62704217-341-0821

Let it Grow - CarbondaleWest Main Street,Carbondale, IL 62908573-450-5401

Prairie House Garden Center15151 South Harlem Avenue,Orland, IL 60462708-687-3131

Water Works Indoor Gardening1900 South Dirksen Parkway,Springfield, IL 62703217-553-6929

INDIANABWGS7854 North State Road 37,Bloomington, IN 47404800-316-1306

Five Point Gardens56555 Oak Road,South Bend, IN 46619574-287-9232

Frogs Lilly Pad, The706 Citation Road,Carmel, IN 46032317-846-4610

Harvest Moon Hydroponics4200 S. East Street,Indianapolis, IN 46227317-780-8070

Magic Bulb Garden Center6229 Allisonville Road,Indianapolis, IN 46220317-202-2852

Sunleaves Garden Products7854 North State Road 37,Bloomington, IN 47404888-464-9676

Worm’s Way Indiana7850 North State Road 37,Bloomington, IN 47404800-598-8158

KANSASGreen Circle Hydroponics6890 W. 105th Street,Overland Park, KS 66212913-642-3888

KENTUCKYGarden Grove Organics29 East 7th Street,Covington, (Cincinnati Metro), KY 41011859-360-1843

Grow Shop, The of Lexington2320 Palumbo Drive, Suite 130,Lexington, KY 40509859-268-0779

Louisville Hydroponics3471 Taylor Boulevard,Louisville, KY 40215502-366-4000

New Earth Garden Center9810 Taylorsville Road,Louisville, KY 40299800-462-5953

Worm’s Way kentucky1360 Donaldson Hwy. Suite A,Erlanger, KY 41018800-669-2088

LOUISIANALaughing Buddha Nursery4516 Clearview Parkway,Metairie, LA 70006504-887-4336

Ourcrazydeals Hydroponics201 Angus Drive,Yungsville, LA 70592337-303-6146

urban Organics285 St. Claude Avenue,New Orleans, LA 70117504-352-4709

MAINEGreen Thumb Indoor Gardening19 Stage Road,St. Albans, ME 04971207-938-5909

urban Garden Center235 Lewiston Road,Toposhan, ME 04086207-373-0990

MARYLANDEast Coast Organics2800 Sisson Street,Baltimore, MD 21211

Healthy Gardens and Supply5001-F Harford Road,Baltimore, MD 21214443-708-5144

Maryland Hydroponics Inc.10051 North 2nd Street, Laurel, MD 20723866-MD-HYDROMeadowview Feed & Garden Center1202 Meadowview Road,Pasadena, MD 21122443-817-0018Purple Mountain Organics100-7010 Westmoreland Avenue,Takoma Park, MD 20912877-538-9901

MASSACHUSETTSGreenlife Garden Supply481 Boston Road, Unit 4,Billerica, MA 01821978-262-9966

Green Path Garden Supply276 West Main Street,Northborough, MA 01532508-393-4181

Harvest Moon Hydroponics29 Washington Street, Route 1Foxboro, MA 02035800-660-6977

LiquidSun® MA8 Lynwood Avenue,Holyoke, MA 01040413-539-6875

New England Hydroponics15 D Coolege Hwy. (Rt. 10),Southampton, MA 01073888-529-9025


Worm’s Way Massachusetts121 Worc-Providence Turnpike,Sutton, MA 01590800-284-9676

MICHIGANBIg Creek Hydroponics555 Old Little Lake Road,Marquette, MI 49855906-249-5297Cultivation Station of Michigan Inc., The23529 Little Mack Avenue,St Claire’s Shores, MI 48080586-775-9485Growco Garden Supply1042 Michigan Street, NE,Grand Rapids, MI 49503877-939-6900Home Grown Hydroponics8075 Gratiot Road, Unit C,Saginaw MI 48609989-781-1930Homelight Gardens3471 S. Huron Road,Bay City, MI 48706989-922-0088Horizen Hydroponics1614 Leonard Street, NW,Grand Rapids,MI 49504866-791-1644HotHydro®5245 Jackson Road, Suite FAnn Arbor, MI 48103734-761-5040; 877-893-0716Hydroharrys.com24500 Dequindre,Warren, MI 48091800-461-8819Hydrospot34236 Michigan Avenue,Wayne, MI 48184734-722-1285J&L Growco206 S. Michigan Avenue,Big Rapids, MI 49307231-796-1528kalamazoo Indoor Garden450 W. Maple,Kalamazoo, MI 49001269-344-2550Light Green Water3661 Highland Road,Waterford, MI 48329248-681-0001SH Hydroponics Inc.115 Holmes Road, Building 3 Suite A,Ypsilanti, MI 48198734-879-4014Sunshine Supply Co.1807 South Mission,Mt. Pleasant, MI 48858989-775-3700Superior Growers Supply19582 Middlebelt Road,Livonia, MI 48152248-473-0450Superior Growers Supply4870 Dawn Avenue,East Lansing, MI 48823517-332-2663The Grow Store721 W. Blue Star Drive,Traverse City, MI 49684231-421-5191Van Hydro7480 N State,Davison, MI 48423810-653-8267

Wild Child7740 M 72 East,Traverse City, MI 49690866-711-GROW

MINNESOTAAmerican Garden Supply601-6th Avenue, North,Princeton, MN 55371763-631-0543

Brew and Grow8179 University Avenue,Fridley, MN 55432612-780-8191Eco Garden Supply800 Transfer Door 25 in rearSt. Paul, MN 55114651-647-1896

Eden Indoor Organic Gardens831 Highway 75 NorthMoorhead, MN 56560218-477-EDEN (3336)Indoor Gardening10 NE 3rd Street,Faribault, MN 55021507-209-1546

Interior Gardens115 -1620 Central Avenue NE,Minneapolis, MN 55413800-498-4178; 612-870-9077

Midwest Hydroponics3440 Belt Line Blvd., Suite A, Minneapolis,MN 55416888-449-2739

Still-H2O Inc.14375 North 60th Street,Stillwater, MN 55082651-351-2822

MISSOURIDivine Hydroponics301 North Bishop Avenue,Rolla, MO 65401573-426-2348

Grow Your Own Hydroponics3617 Saint John Avenue,Kansas City, MO 64123816-241-2122

Green Circle Hydroponics12 East Missouri,Kansas City, MO 64106816-421-1840

Heartland Hydrogardens5695 E. Clark Lane, Suite L,Columbia, MO 65202573-474-GROW (4769)

Let It Grow - Springfield2519 E. Kearney Street,Springfield, MO 65803417-862-GROW

Let It Grow - Girardeau879 S. Kings Highway,Cape Girardeau, MO 63703573-803-0628

u-Grow1724 North, 13th Street,St. Louis, MO 63106314-452-6368

Worm’s Way Missouri1225 North Warson Road,St. Louis, MO 63132800-285-9676

NEBRASKAAdvanced Hydro-Ponics10711 Mockingbird Drive,Omaha, NE 68127 (108th and L-Q)402-991-6630

Paradigm Gardens8949 J Street, Suite 5,Omaha, NE 68127402-339-4949Patio-Ponics3255 Cornhusker Highway, Suite 4Lincoln, NE 68504402-466-9218

NEVADAAAA Indoor Organic Garden SuperCenter2101 S. Decatur Boulevard, #21,Las Vegas, NV 89102702-450-4769Advanced Gardens Hydroponics3111 South Valley View,Suite V103Las Vegas, NV 89102702-257-4769All American Hydroponics2675 East Patrick Lane, Unit 8,Las Vegas, NV 89120702-894-9888Anything Grows190 West Moana Lane,Reno, NV 89509775-828-1460Carson Valley Hydroponics2520 Empire Ranch Road,Carson City, NV 89701775-884-4769Lorraine Ink290 Spear Court,Fernley, NV 89408775-575-7757Nevada Hydroponics4700 B Maryland, Suite 1,Las Vegas, NV 89119702-798-2852

NEW HAMPSHIREHydro World17 White Birch Lane,Lincoln, NH 03251603-745-3030

NEW JERSEY77HYDRO37 Fairfield Place,West Caldwell, NJ 07006877-774-9376Claraqua4 Redwood Court,West Windsor, NJ 08550East Coast Horticultural Supply1652 Hurffville Road,Swewell, NJ 08080856-228-5290Garden State Hydroponics511 Avenel Street,Avenel, NJ 07001888-300-8711Green Touch 2 Hydroponics Inc.888 Route 33, Unit 1,Hamilton, NJ 08619609-570-8829

NEW MEXICOAHL Garden Supply1051 San Mateo Blvd. SE,Albuquerque, NM 87108505-255-3677Common Shaman1319 San Mateo N.E.,Albuquerque, NM 87110505-255-6463

NEW YORKCalifornia Hydroponics27 Corporate Circle,East Syracuse, NY 13057315-432-9387


HYDROGARDENS

H Y D R O P O N I C S I N C .greentouch2


East Coast Hydroponics14649 Horace Harding Exp,Flushing, NY 11367718-762-8880Environmental Gardens8 John Walsh Boulevard, Suite 310Peekskills, NY 10566800-254-0507; 914-736-6676FutureGarden Inc.59 Central Avenue,Farmingdale, NY 11735516-420-0884Greentree Nursery308 Elmira Road,Ithaca, NY 14850607-272-3666Grow Room, The8 Bridge Street,Nyack, NY 10960800-449-9630Harvest Moon HydroponicsHenrietta Townline Plaza,3047 West Henrietta Road,Rochester, NY 14623716-865-7353Harvest Moon Hydroponics340 West at 59,Central Nyack, NY 10960Harvest Moon Hydroponics147 Fourth Street,Troy, NY 10960Healthy Harvest Organics and Hydro163 Broadway,Fort Edwart, NY 12828518-480-4698Hudson Valley Hydroponics217 Route 32 North,New Paltz, NY 12561845-255-3633Hydro Garden Center1069B Lyell Avenue,Rochester, NY 146061-800-277-1322Hydroponics of Buffalo1497 Hertel Avenue,Buffalo, NY 14216716-838-3545Hydroponics Shops of America2606 Erie Boulevard,Syracuse, NY 13224315-251-2516Indoor Outdoor Gardener8223 5th Avenue,Brooklyn, NY 11209718-836-2402kG Garden Supply1327 Floyd Avenue,Rome, NY 134401-877-KG-HYDROSaratoga Organics & Hydroponic Supply19 Front Street,Ballston Spa, NY 12020518-885-2005; 800-850-4769Sunlight Solutions Hydroponics2045 Niagara Falls Boulevard, Suite 13,Niagara Falls, NY 14304888-GROWBOXSunset Hydroponics & Home Brewing1590 West Ridge Road,Rochester, NY 14615866-395-9204

NORTH CAROLINABe Well Hydroponics & urban Gardening4732 Monroe Road,Charlotte, NC 28205704-344-8010BWGS East4045 Perimeter West Drive, Suite 400Charlotte, NC 28214800 316 1306Fifth Season Gardening Company45 Banks Avenue,Asheville, NC 28801828-253-4112

Fifth Season Gardening Company106 South Greensboro Street,Carrboro, NC 27510919-932-7600Fifth Season Gardening Company1616 D-3 Battleground Avenue,Greensboro, NC 27408336-271-3373Fifth Season Gardening Company5619-A Hillsborough Street,Raleigh, NC 27606919-852-4747Flow & Grow Hydroponics & Organic Garden Center4521 Cumberland Road,Fayetteville, NC 28306910-423-FLOW (3569)New Age Gardens2236A US Highway 70,Swannanoa, NC 28778828-299-9989Progressive Gardens6005 Oleander Drive,Wilmington, NC 28403910-395-1156urban Organics and Hydroponics4604 W. Market Street, Suite 106,Greensboro, NC 27407336-316-0604Water’s Edge Hydro-Gardens & Organics107 South White Street,Wake Forest, NC 27587919-562-5343

OHIOAdvanced Hydrorganics Indoor Garden Center5204 Darrow Road,Hudson, OH 44236234-380-1287Akron Garden Center1749 South Main Street,Akron, OH 44319330-724-2700Cleveland Garden Center Inc.727 East 185th Street,Cleveland, OH 44119216-481-7868Cropking134 West Drive,Lodi, OH 44254330-302-4203Carefree Garden Center134 West Drive,Lodi, OH 44254330-302-4203Dayton Hydroponics3856 Miamisburg-Centerville Road, West Carrolton, OH 45449937-859-3999Garden Indoors of Ohio4720 Indianola Avenue,Columbus, OH 43214800-833-6868Greenleaf Hydroponics1805 Elm Road,Warren, OH 44483330-372-1039Harvest Moon9215 Market Street,Youngstown (North Lima), OH 44452800-776-8399Garden Grove Organics29 East 7th Street,Covington, (Cincinnati Metro), KY 41011859-360-1843Grow Wizard, The5700 Denison Avenue,Cleveland, OH 44102216-961-2500Herb-N-Garden Center14901 Puritas Avenue,Cleveland, OH 44135216-252-2001Indoor Garden Worx906 Blue Avenue,Zanesville, OH 43701866-900-9679

Indoor Gardens1222 Hill Road, North,Pickerington, OH 43147614-866-6065kissed by the Sun Hydroponic10740 Reading Road,Cincinnati, OH 45241513-769-0159Magic Home Gardens209 Cemetery Road,Canal Winchester, OH 43110614-837-2440Magic Home Garden4538 Indianola Avenue,Columbus, OH 43214614-263-2440Summit Hydroponics1030 Kenmore Boulevard Akron, OH 44314-2114330-753-5222Sweet Greens5540 Brecksville RoadIndependence, OH 44131800-421-7084Super Harvest5956 A Colerain Avenue,Cincinnati, OH 45239513-385-5999Toledo Hydroponics Ltd.855 S. Holland-Sylvania Road, Suite 2Toledo, OH 436151-877-893-0716Trinity Hydro Organics435 Woodman DriveRiverside, OH 45431937-252-GROWurban Gardens671 E. Center StreetMarion, OH 43302740-375-2800Worm’s Way - Greater Cincinatti / N. kentucky1360 Donaldson Road(Route 236), Suite A,Erlanger, KY 41018800-669-2088

OKLAHOMAAAAAHA! Hydroponics unlimited P.O. Box 74,Oakhurst, OK 74050Tulsa County Hydro-Organics1928 W. Albany,Broken Arrow, OK 74012918-259-HYDROurban Garden3141 E. 15th Street,Tulsa, OK 74104918-289-0018

OREGONAmerican Agriculture9220 Southeast Stark Street,Portland, OR 97216800-433-6805Anthony’s Garden & Light Supply93779 B Troy Lane,Coos Bay, OR 97420541-266-8822Aqua Serene2836 W. 11,Eugene, OR 97402541-485-2171Aqua Serene Hydro Gardens1090 Benson Way,Ashland, OR 97520541-482-7600Basin Indoor Gardening1221 Main Street, Klamath Falls, OR 97601541-273-2023B.I.G.S.155 SW Century Drive, Suite 401,Bend, OR 97702541-385-5222


Garden Supplies

BIGS Warehouse2606 SW 4th Street, Unit BRedmond, OR 97756541-504-8886Cascade Horticulture39570 Pioneer Boulevard,Sandy, OR 97055503-668-8242Corvallis Hydroponics & Organics5490 Philomath Road,Corvallis, OR 97333541-738-2820Everybody’s Garden Center2701 SE 14th Avenue,Portland, OR 97202800-669-5483Forever Green Organic Hydro Gardens7530 Crater Lake Highway,White City, OR 97503541-826-2946Garden Spout, The4532 South East 63rd Avenue,Portland, OR 97206503-788-4769Gorge Garden Center1203 12th Street Suite H,Hood River, OR 97031541-386-GROWGorilla Garden Supply1810 Virginia Avenue,North Bend, OR 97459541-756-5005Green Thumb Hydrogarden and Organic Supply2021 West Main Street,Medford, OR 97501541-779-8600Grow America Garden Supply LLC11511 SW Pacific Highway,Tigard, OR 97223503-841-6868Growing Crazy (Hooked On Hydroponics)817 W. 2nd Street,Medford, OR 97501Herb N’ Jungle Hydroponics930 SE Textron Drive,Bend, OR 97702541-382-4010Homegrown Garden Supply7112 NE Gilsan Street,Portland, OR 97213877-EZ2-GROWIndoor Garden Center1697 SE 25th Street,Salem, OR 97302503-566-7888Indoor Garden Depot15828 SE McLoughlin Boulevard,Milwaukie, OR 97267503-786-2445Island Flowers & Indoor Garden Center909 N. Tomahawk Island Drive, Suite 103, Portland, OR 97217503-546-3185J-N-B Hydro 2 Go155 West Central Avenue,Sutherlin, OR 97479541-459-9211Ladybug Indoor Gardens3960 W. Main Street,Medford, OR 97501541-618-4459Lights Distributing9843 SW 55th Avenue,Portland, OR 97219Liquid Sun1845 Southwest Highway 101,Lincoln City, OR 97367541-994-7070Moonshine Park Farm135 South East 62nd, Unit FSouth Beach, OR 97366541-444-2298

Northern Light and Garden Beaverton9290 SW Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway, Beaverton, OR 97005503-297-7331Northern Light and Garden Grants Pass1203 Rogue River Highway,Grants Pass, OR 97527541-474-1700Northern Light and Garden Salem1915 Lancester Drive,Salem, OR 97305503-364-4769Oregon Rainforest Co.19949 E. Burnside Street,Gresham, OR 97233503-465-9909Paradise Supply Inc.1409 N. Highway 99,Ashland, OR 97520541-552-1037Rain or Shine13126 NE Airport Way,Portland, OR 97230503-255-1981Roots Garden Supply5426 North Gay Avenue,Portland, OR 97217503-285-4768Roseburg Hydroponics853 SE Stephens Street,Roseburg, OR 97470541-229-1420SunInside Gardening Co.665 Conger, Unit F,Eugene, OR 97402541-686-9966urban Flora2865 South East,Portland, OR 97214503-236-3344Wizard's Garden, LLC621 Spruce Street, Unit C,Myrtle Point, OR 97458541-572-2333

PENNSYLVANIAFull Bloom Hydroponics84 South 24th Street,Pittsburgh, PA 15203888-872-3602Garden Indoors of Pennsylvania208 Route 13,Bristol, PA 19007800-227-4567Harvest Moon Hydroponics1239 South Airport Road,Allentown, PA 18103610-432-4949Healthy Gardens and Supply1012 Lincoln Avenue,Prospect Park, PA 19076866-32-HYDROHigh Tech Garden Supply20232 Route 19, Unit 6,Cranberry Twp., PA 16066724-473-1113Home Hydroponics of Pittsburgh2008 Smallman Street,Pittsburgh, PA 15222412-232-7030Home Hydroponics of Pittsburgh830 Route 119,Greensburg, PA 15601724-836-1118

RHODE ISLANDLiquidSun® RI1179 Central Avenue,Pawtucket, MA 02861401-722-2724

SOUTH CAROLINA247 Garden Supply535 D Clemson Road,Columbia, SC 29229803-788-4445All Good Hydroponics & Gardening6729 Two Notch Road,Columbia, SC 29223803-708-4819GreenSpirit Hydrogarden1864 Meeting Street,Charleston, SC 29405843-225-1GRO;Green Thumb unique Gardening & More1230 Rutherford Road,Greenville, SC 29609864-271-8830

SOUTH DAKOTAGreen Earth Products Inc.5700 Highway 79 S.,Unit 1,Rapid City, SD 57702605-342-1307

TENNESSEEAdvanced Hydroponic Garden783 French Mill Road,Dandridge, TN 37725800-521-1643Advanced Hydroponic Garden6912 Clinton Highway,Knoxville, TN 37921866-938-3318All Seasons Gardening and Brewing Supply Co.924 8th Avenue, South,Nashville, TN 37203800-790-2188Atlantis Hydroponics1800 Rossville Avenue, #3,Chattanooga, TN 37408423-752-5400National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply126 Belinda Parkway,Mt. Juliet, TN 37122888-265-9005Perpetual Harvest75 Riverport Drive,Jackson, TN 38301877-422-3391Sun City Hydroponics2235 Whitten Road, Suite 104,Memphis, TN 38133901-372-8100Worm’s Way Tennessee707 Rivergate Parkway, Suite EGoodlettsville, TN 37072800-397-4153

TEXASAirline HydroponicsP.O. Box 980904, Trader’s Village #363,Houston, TX 77098713-942-0484Botani Hydroponics & Organics7730 Highway 6 SouthHouston, TX 77083281-575-1999Brite Ideas Hydroponics & Organics4360 S.Congress Avenue, #310,Austin, TX 78745512-444-2100Field of Dreams Indoor Growing Supplies5302 Slide Road Unit B,Lubbock, TX 79414806-793-2901GreenMaker Nursery3030 Northwest Loop,Stephenville, TX 76401254-965-7273



GroGreen Hydroponics4015 Main Street,Dallas, TX 75226214-370-9984

Happy Harvest1500 Crescent Drive, #202Carrollton, TX 75006972-820-9376

Houston Discount Hydroponics9384 Richmond Avenue,Houston, TX 77063713-464-9406

Hydro Mart3841 Main Street,Rowlett, TX 75088972-475-6114

Innergrow Hydroponics24451 Interstate Highway 20,Wills Point, TX 75169866-475-4769

Jolly Green Hydroponics (Greenhouse Horticultural Supplies)13628 Neutron Road,Dallas, TX 75244(866) WE-JOLLY; 469-341-5555

Lone Star Hydroponics and Organics1302 Motor Circle,Dallas, TX 75207214-634-9376

Sol Organics & Hydroponics1634 Babcock Road,San Antonio, TX 78229210-366-9082

Texas Growers Supply5990 N. Sam Houston Pkwy. E. #602,Humble, TX 77396281-441-3739

Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Central Austin)5126 Burnet Road,Austin, TX 78756512-459-4769

Texas Hydroponics & Organics (South Austin)2125-A Goodrich Avenue,Austin, TX 78704512-440-4769

Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Dallas)3400 Elm Street,Dallas, TX 75226214-744-4769

Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Houston)7730 A Park Place Boulevard,Houston, TX 77087713-641-4769

ultimate Hydroponic Garden Supply6125 West Sam HoustonParkway, North Suite 206Houston, TX 77041713-856-8425

UTAHSalt Lake Plant & Hydro60 West 3300 S. #6,South Salt Lake, UT 84115801-488-3200

VERMONTGreen Thumb GardeningP.O. Box 235, Route 15,Underhill, VT 5489800-564-9376

Greenthumb - Vermont394 Route 15,Jericho, VT 05465 802-899-4323

LiquidSun® VT1 Bellows Falls Road, (Route 5 North)Putney, VT 05158802-387-1100

VIRGINIABlue Ridge Hydroponics & Home Brewing Co.5524 Williamson Road, Suite 11Roanoke VA 24012540-265-2483Clean & Green Technologies196 Corning Drive,Christiansburg, VA 24073866-694-1628Hydroponics & Growlights13400 Occoquan Road,Woodbridge, VA 22191703-490-0700I Love Hydroponics612 N. Sheppard Street,Richmond, VA 23221804-377-3020I Love Hydroponics368 Newtown Road, #105,Virginia Beach, VA 23462757-490-5425Inside-Out Garden Supply6517 Backlick Road,Springfield, VA 22150703-451-3259

WASHINGTONAqua Serene3839 Stone Way North,Seattle, WA 98103206-547-GROWEco Enterprises1240 NE 175th Street, #BShoreline, WA 98155800-426-6937Garden Smart500 Bond Drive,Castlerock, WA 98611360-274-7960Green Gardens Distributing12738 Bel-Red Road,Bellevue, WA 98005425-454-5731Hydro-Tech2121 Aurora Avenue, North,Seattle, WA 98103206-547-2202Indoor Garden Depo6305 NE Highway 99,Vancouver, WA 98665360-993-7779Indoor Garden & Lighting3839 6th Avenue,Tacoma, WA 98406253-761-7478Indoor Garden & Lighting23303 Highway 99, Suite A,Edmonds, WA 98026425-673-2755Indoor Garden & Lighting714 South Central Avenue,Kent, WA 98032253-373-9060kent Garden Supplies Ltd.18817 East Valley Highway,Kent, WA 98032425-251-9299Linda’s Gardening & Hydroponics11522 Canyon Road East,Puyallup, WA 98373253-531-9641Liquid Sunshine Hydroponics5087 Lincoln Road,Blaine, WA 98230M & R Lighting17238 Memorial Drive,Mt. Vernon, WA 98273360-848-1080M & R LightingUnit C 22914 Highway 410,Buckley, WA 98390253-891-4190

National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply5408 NE 88th Street, Building A,Vancouver, WA 98665888-478-6544

Northern Light and Garden Vancouver6305 NE Highway 99,Vancouver, WA 98665360-993-7779

Northern Lights Gardening4159 Hannegan Road,Bellingham, WA 98225360-715-8585

Northwest Horticulture Supply161 Hooker Road, #1,Sequim, WA 98057360-582-0702

Renton Indoor Garden Center207 Sunset Blvd. N, Building A,Renton, WA 98055425-917-9000

River City Hydroponics1514 East Francis Avenue,Spokane, WA 99208509-464-0246

Solar Shop306 West 4th Street,Tonasket, WA 98855509-486-4508

Spokane Organic and Hydroponic Supply4823 East Sprague Avenue E.,Spokane Valley, WA 99212509-534-4055

WISCONSINAric's Indoor Garden Supply1104 West Wisconsin Avenue,Appleton, WI 54914920-574-3258

Brew and Grow285 N. Janacek Road,Brookfield, WI 53045262-789-0555

Brew and Grow3317 Agriculture Drive,Madison, WI 53716608-226-8910

Grow BIG Hydroponics954 S. Westland,Appleton, WI 54914920-749-4769

Paradigm Gardens4539 Helgesen Drive,Madison, WI 53718608-241-3800

PUERTO RICOTecno-HydroAve Campo Rico GJ17,Carolina, PR 00982787-752-8252

MYWE THANK ALL OF OUR DEDICATED RETAILERS

FOR OFFERING MAXIMUM YIELD TO THEIR CUSTOMERS.

are You CurreNtlY distriButiNGMaXiMuM Yield FroM Your retail store?

add your company logo to thedistributor listings!

Call 250-729-2677 oremail [email protected]

If so, pass along your contact information to us here at the magazine care of

[email protected] and we will add your store’s name, address

and telephone number to our distributor listing in an upcoming issue.


COMING UP INdecember

FEATURES


THE ECO-HOMECharles Winslow takes us on a walking tour through his latest eco-home design featuring year-round hydroponic gardens, using plants and nature to enhance the living experience.

COMPLETE NUTRITION PART IIIn the second half of the series, Evan Folds discusses the need for a balance amongst the essential plant elements in order for them to be relevant to plant growth.

INDOOR RAINFORESTSUtilizing hydroponic state-of-the-art technology, the California Academy of Sciences in San Francisco has replicated tropic regions throughout the world in a glass sphere, as examined by Lee McCall.

WHAT IS SOIL?As one of the three major natural resources, it is important to further understand the components and history of soil, as told by Luis Bartolo.

TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY IN THE GARDEN:THE WINNING FACTORSIsabelle Lemay and Mélissa Léveillé introduce the effects of climate on plants and which methods can be used to more efficiently control them in indoor gardening.

WIN BIG! GROW BIG!The latest indoor growing technology is available to be won in the November/December Win Big! Grow Big! draw. Enter online by December 15 at www.maximumyield.com/winbig and while you’re there, sign up for our E-News, available monthly to keep you in the know all year long.

WEIRD PLANT HAPPENINGSDr. Lynette Morgan scrutinizes strange plant happenings that can be fascinating and completely natural, and also frustrating in some instances.

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http://www.plantrevolution.com

http://www.genhydro.com

Documents

MY USA Nov 09 Maximum Yield