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Page 1: My Usa August 09

USA

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From the Editor

Letters to the Editor

MaximumYield.com

Ask Erik

MAX Facts

Product Spotlight

Growing for Health

Beginner’s Corner

Green Thumb Gardening

Tips and Tricks

Do You Know?

You Tell Us

Avant-Gardening

Max Mart

Distributors

Coming up in September

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98

74

12

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FEATURES

DEPARTMENTS

august 2009CONTENTS

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9MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

Strands of Gold: Growing Saffronby Dr. Lynette Morgan

Is That the Best You Can Do? Nutrient Ratios for Modern Cropsby Erik Biksa

Plants and Soundsby Evan Folds

Around the World With Hydroponics: La Villette - An Indoor Plantation Paris, Franceby Lee McCall

Come Clone With Us by Kevin Dunlop

Lighting Basicsby Bob Taylor

Sun and Soil: Natural Greenhouse Growing Sunlight In the Gardenby Roland Evans

Composting 101: An Overviewby Jared Garrett

Soil - Who Doesn't Love it?by Luis Bartolo

Page 10: My Usa August 09

10 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

Kevin Dunlop was born in Hampshire, England and has been involved in horticultural and agricultural journalism for many years. Now retired, with a keen interest in hydroponics and its future, he is well placed to write articles for growers, creating interest and provid-ing valuable knowledge.

FROM THEeditor jessica raymond

Lee McCall graduated from Johnson and Wales University with a concentration in Culinary Arts. Culinary school opened the door to research and work with hydroponics and organic production. Currently, Lee attends business school in Denver and focuses on continuing advancements with Maximum Yield and indoor garden-ing technology.

Erik Biksa, leading expert in hydroponic technologies, holds a diploma in Agriculture with majors in fertilizer sciences and crop production. Erik’s earliest gardening experiences began when he started to walk, learning the secrets of time honored, old-world gardening practices from his grandfather. Erik has amassed over 18 years of indoor gardening experience and intensive research while pushing the boundaries of crop growth technologies. Since first appearing in Maximum Yield in 1999, the “Ask Erik” column and numerous articles have reached growers throughout the world.

Roland Evans is lifelong gardener and CEO of Organic Bountea. As a student and teacher of Holistic Systems, he actively promotes an ecological approach to cultivation using the Soil Food Web. Trained as a psychologist, Roland also writes on the interface between garden-ing and personal growth.

Jared Garrett is an accomplished writer with experience in educa-tion, marketing and the financial sector. He has established Internet niches in gardening, personal finance, political commentary, and jour-nalism. Jared has won or placed in multiple writing contests, for both fiction and journalistic endeavors. He has written two novels, and has publishing credits in several textbooks and workbooks, LDS Living’s online magazine, Name.com’s website, and various other sites. With over 1000 articles online, you can Google ‘Jared Garrett’ and the first page of results is all him!

contributors

Evan Folds is president of Progressive Gardens, A Natural Approach land care company and Progress Earth (www.progressearth.com), all located in Wilmington, NC. With a degree in biology and religion, Evan’s interests include making sense of food production and bring-ing awareness to the myriad injustices we collectively perpetrate upon ourselves as a society, including empty food, municipal water fluoridation and spiritual intolerance. Evan is also a board member on the Progressive Gardening Trade Association.

Jessica Raymond, [email protected]

Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort. Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. A partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants, Lynette is involved in remote and on-site consultancy services for new and existing commercial greenhouse growers worldwide as well as research trials and product development for manufacturers of hydroponic products. Lynette authors five hydroponic technical books. Visit www.suntec.co.nz/consultants.htm and www.suntec.co.nz/books.htm for more information.

Bob Taylor is the chief chemist of Flairform (www.flairform.com) - an Australian based manufacturing company. Up until 1992, Bob was the principal chemist of the water resources section at Western Australia’s State Government Chemistry Centre. Bob was an approved NATA signatory for a wide range of water analyses as well as an official registered analyst for the government’s chemical analysis monitoring program of all fertilizers registered in Western Australia.

Jose Luis Pinheiro Bartolo is the President and Chief Executive Officer of Biobizz Worldwide Inc., (www.biobizz.nl) a global leader in the production of organic fertilizers and soil mixtures in the hydroponic industry, which he launched in 2002. He is passionate about maintaining a business philosophy that identifies with the organic market and providing the highest service and perfectionism that comes direct from his heart and is projected to all aspects of his life.

Growing greener and living a sustainable life is becoming

increasingly important throughout the USA and the world. Learning and sharing ways that we can grow healthy plants in a minimal space like

what was experienced at the recent San Francisco

“Growing our World Green” Indoor Gardening Expo is a clear indication of how this

trend is progressing. We are proud to feature writers

from around the globe sharing their knowledge and gardening experience with every issue of Maximum Yield.

Get ready for some great reading in this information packed August issue. From cloning and nutrient ratios, to lighting basics and discovering how plants respond to sound, there is something of interest for everyone here. Once you have read this issue, go directly to maximumyield.com to enter the second series of our Win Big! Grow Big! Online Contest. You could win the Under Current System from Current Culture, the Sun System Galaxy Electronic Ballast from Sunlight Supply, General Hydroponics Eurogrower or a bunch of Maximum Yield gear. While you’re entering our online win big contest, check out the current and back issues of Maximum Yield globally - 10 + years of knowledge to keep you learning and growing!

Page 12: My Usa August 09

12 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

LETTERS TOthe editor

Maximum Yield reserves the right to edit for brevity.

We want to hear from you!Write us at:Maximum Yield Publications Inc.2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9or Email us at: [email protected]

Natural Killers

Search Solutions

I can’t seem to find Maximum Yield on Facebook? I wanted to learn more on LEDs and other related information.

ThanksBranden Dais

To join us on Facebook, simply visit www.maximumyield.com and click on the Facebook button, or you can follow this link:http://www.facebook.com/pages/Maximum-Yield-Magazine/35594384563Currently, fans are heatedly conversing over LEDs in one

of our discussion groups. You will also find a large library of articles on LEDs and other indoor lighting options on www.maximumyield.com in our article archive.

How can I get rid of spidermites without chemicals in my indoor grow room? They gotta go! Please reply. You guys rock!

Harry Campbell

Prevention is the best defense. Predator mites can be effective if spidermite populations haven’t gotten too out of hand, and the growing environment suits the predators. Sometimes the environment is too hot and dry or otherwise not optimal for the predators, making them less effective. Derivatives of neem, while not chemicals per say because they are natural, can reduce pest insect populations if applied properly. There has also been some success with careful applications of “kill level” carbon dioxide levels during the plants dark cycle. It won’t harm the plants while suffocating other organisms such as spidermites without the use of chemicals. Careful consideration is required if applying kill-level CO

2 for insect

control. Good Luck.

Erik Biksa

After reading Erik Biksa’s A Fresh Look at Insect and Disease Controls (May 09’ USA), I wanted to try some salicylic acid on my plants. My local hydro dealer has no product that contains salicylic acid. I have called four dealers that run advertisements in Maximum Yield and none carry such a product. Can you help?

ThanksJim KeulWhittier, CA., USA

What products are those that contain chitinase and salicylic acid, as mentioned in A Fresh Look at Insect and Disease Controls: Send Them Running by Erik Biksa (May 09’ USA)?

Bob Long

Typically, highly effective and bio-active nutrients and supplements are manufactured and developed by advanced crop technologies manufacturers. These plant beneficial bio-technologies are made available through garden suppliers who specialize in supplies for high yielding indoor and greenhouse crops. If there are no shops in your area, you can look at internet based hydroponics suppliers.Or, drop us a line with what store you prefer to shop at. We

can contact them to see what products they may have available that supply salicylic acid or otherwise boost your crop’s natural immunity response system. That way, when you contact them again they will be up to date on which products they can recommend to you. As new technologies become available to growers, Maximum Yield is dedicated to informing both growers and vendors alike of all the possibilities that are available.

Erik Biksa

I have just recently found your website and I am there everyday. Thank you for the superb information and pictures. Do you have a search feature available on your website? I read an article with an organic tea recipe a couple of days ago and now I can’t find it.

ThanksShawn Moriarty

We are currently working on adding a search feature to our website, www.maximumyield.com which will allow you to search through all of our articles and authors with key words.Also, all Online Extras, such as the one you are looking for,

will be linked for easy access.We have two great compost tea recipes available in our

Online Extras. Please follow these links to access them. http://maximumyield.com/articles/extras/USA/MY_OE_10_08_compost_tea.pdf from Application Parameters for Using Compost Tea by Dr. Carole Rollins (October 2008) http://maximumyield.com/articles/extras/USA/MY_OE_05_09_DiseaseControl.pdf from A Fresh Look at Insect and Disease Controls by Erik Biksa (May 2009).

"There has been some success with careful

applications of “kill level” carbon dioxide levels during

the plants dark cycle."

52 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - May 2009

by Erik Biksa

A Fresh Look At Insect And dIseAse controLs:

Send Them Running Try and talk about preventative controls, and you’ll find

yourself in an empty room, but address growers who have crop pests like spidermites and thrips and you will have their undivided attention.Human nature often dictates that we pay more attention to

solving problems once they start versus taking a smaller degree of time, effort and expense to avoid them in the first place. It’s also true that hindsight is typically 20/20, so growers who have felt the dent in their yields due to insects or diseases will often pay a little closer attention to preventing the sorts of problems that can significantly cut down their yield. In this article we are going to look at some ways of preventing

many common problems that surface through the growing experience, with regards to insects and diseases that are most prevalent in indoor crops. We will also have a look at some effective, safe and practical solutions to treating crops that have insect and disease infestations, should your level of control and prevention get away from you.

52 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - May 2009

At a Loss

Friends and Fans

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14 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER - Jim Jesson

GENERAL MANAGER - Don Moores

BUSINESS MANAGER - Linda Jesson

SALES DIRECTOR - Lisa Lambersek

EDITOR - Jessica Raymond [email protected]

ADVERTISING SALES 250.729.2677

Linda Jesson - [email protected] Lambersek - [email protected]

Keri Hendry - [email protected] Madden - [email protected]

PRODUCTION & DESIGN [email protected]

Pentti Tikkanen - [email protected] Joe - [email protected]

Wes Cargill - [email protected]

ACCOUNTING - Lee Anne [email protected]

USA DISTRIBUTIONAurora Innovations

BWGS, BWGS West and BWGS EastGeneral Hydroponics

HydrofarmHydro International

National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight SupplyR&M SupplyTradewinds

CANADIAN DISTRIBUTIONBrite-Lite Group

BiofloralEddis Wholesale

Greenstar Plant Products Inc.HydrotekMegaWatt

Quality Wholesale

UK DISTRIBUTIONGrowth Technology

HydrogardenNorthern Hydroponic Wholesale

Nutriculture UK

AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTIONFutchatec

Growth TechnologyHydraspher

I N D O O R G A R D E N I N G

VOLUME 10 – NUMBER 5 August 2009

Maximum Yield is published monthly byMaximum Yield Publications Inc.

2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687

No part of this magazine may be reproducedwithout permission from the publisher.

If undeliverable please return to the address above.

The views expressed by columnists are a personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the Editor.

Publication Agreement Number 40739092

Tell us what you think at [email protected]. We’d love to hear from you.

“Similar plants will utilize nutrients differently when grown using different cultural practices.”

-Erik Biksa-

Coming upon the Web

Speed Read1. For the past four months we have been

giving away tons of sweet growing gear to Maximum Yield readers across the country in our Win Big! Grow Big! Contest. Enter now at www.maximum.com/winbig

2. Check out Sure to Grow’s chief grower, Matt Geschke as he demonstrates how these exciting products can help speed up your growing system preparations in this month’s featured video.

3. Did you know there is more than one way to compost? Jared Garrett examines your options.

upComing eventSTwo highly anticipated events for global growers:

Orlando, Florida USAWhat:“Greener Places, Sustainable Spaces”When: November 7-8, 2009

Montreal, Quebec, CanadaWhat: Return trip to this thriving Canadian city (theme to be announced)When: Spring 2010 (to be announced)

LateSt neWS• Organic plant waste an effective weed control

• Potted herb walls popping up in restaurants

• Tough recycling laws in San Francisco

• New advancements in research of cloned crops

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18 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

Do you have a question for Erik? Forward it to [email protected] with the words “Ask Erik” in the subject line, and your answer will be printed in an upcoming edition.

ASKerik

The final vertical height of your crop will have a lot to do with genetics (genotype) of the crop. Some varieties are better suited to growing indoors under lights than others. As you have stated, using the same genetics indoors the plants have become taller versus the same variety you grew outdoors. What you are witnessing is the plants genetic make-up (genotype) being influenced by the physical environment to create a different physical expression of the same genes. This is often referred to as the phenotype; the physical expression of the genes as dictated by environment. Tomatoes are often classified as “determinate” or “indeterminate” varieties. Determinate means they will get to a certain height and mature, while “indeterminate” varieties will continue to grow upwards until they run out of room or as long as the climate allows for.Indoors, plants may not have to work as hard in some areas, like water and nutrient

absorption, while they may have to worker harder in others, such as capturing solar energy from the lighting levels provided by artificial light sources. With this increased level of water and nutrient availability, but less “sun,” the plants are searching for light, fueled by abundant nutrients; ultimately creating more of a “stretch” in their growth pattern.If you are running out of room before the plants hit the lights, you can bend, train and even

prune the branches and vines back. A trellis support system or six square inch grid screens can be suspended and secured at the top of the crop canopy. You may have some luck training the branches and vines to grow along more horizontally rather than vertically in the trellis netting, reducing the overall height of the crop. Once the grid is filled, and fruits or flowers have formed, you may choose to remove the main growing point of the tomato plants, so they can concentrate their energy into the fruits and flowers rather than growth.Most growers find that having more and stronger sources of “blue” light in their artificial light

sources helps to keep internodal distances tighter. Lower humidity levels (40 to 50 per cent relative humidity) and more even light to dark cycle temperatures will also promote closer, squatter growth habits in your crop.An abundance of nitrogen or not in the correct ratio with

potassium will encourage more elongated and softer growth in plants, often making them more susceptible to insects and diseases.Plants produce naturally occurring growth hormones called

“cytokinins” that help make them stockier and bushier. There are also naturally occurring soil bacteria that help to release these hormones to plants. Some great 100 per cent organic bloom stimulants are available that will help to supplement these levels, resulting in tighter and bushier plants for growing under lights. You can also inoculate the growing medium and root system with bacterial inoculants designed for use with hydroponics gardens.

Good luck and good growing.Cheers, Erik Biksa

My hydroponic tomato plants are up over five feet tall. How can I stop them from going higher? The norm is four feet outdoors and I can’t move the light up any higher as the plants are not on the floor.

Roy Thornton

18 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

AANSWERS:July 2009 quiz1) d 2) a, b, c, d 3) To keep aerobic conditions in the rootzone by creating as much oxygen as possible with the airstone; preventing anaerobic activity that causes root rot 4) Because they don’t restrict air movement and air circulation in the growing environment which is important in hot weather with increased plant respiration 5) a 6) b

MY

Maximum Yield and Erik Biksa wish to thank you for your faithful readership of "Check your Growing IQ" these past few years. We will no longer be running this special feature in the pages of Maximum Yield, however, the fun won't stop here. Stay tuned to future editions of Maximum Yield where we will feature fun hydroponic trivia for all levels of growers.

Page 20: My Usa August 09

20 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

hydroponic news, tips and triviaMAXfacts

Hydro for Hunger is pleased to announce the new participating vendors and products for the upcoming program year! Proceeds from the sale of the following items between July 1, 2009 and June 30, 2010 will benefit Hydro for Hunger and the global hunger relief efforts of the Institute of Simplified Hydroponics (ISH):Sunleaves: New 30 pound Indonesian Bat Guano, 25 pound

Jamaican Bat Guano, 25 pound Peruvian Seabird Guano and nine pound Mexican Bat Guano

Technaflora: Recipe for Success Starter KitsHydrofarm: MegaGardensFoxFarm: Soluble Tri-Paks; Hydroponic and Soil Formula

Nutrient TriosGrodan: 1.5 inch A’Ok Starter PlugsEastSide-Impex: Homebox Portable Grow Rooms

Hydro for Hunger Announces 2009 Sponsors and Products

In addition, Maximum Yield Publications helps raise funds for Hydro for Hunger at their Indoor Gardening Expos. All proceeds from each Maximum Yield Indoor Gardening Expo assist Hydro for Hunger in their fight against world hunger. Hydro for Hunger is an initiative created by hydroponic

industry leaders in 2002 to assist the Institute of Simplified Hydroponics (ISH) in its fight against world hunger. The Hydro for Hunger program raises awareness about global food shortages and directs in-kind contributions and financial donations to the ISH. The Institute of Simplified Hydroponics is a 501-C (3) not-for-profit that helps communities in developing countries become self-sufficient by teaching small-scale hydroponic food cultivation techniques.Please visit www.hydroforhunger.org to find out more

about Hydro for Hunger. For more on the Institute of Simplified Hydroponics, please visit www.carbon.org

Cloned Crops Closer to Being RealizedCloning is a useful tool for farmers and gardeners who

wish to replicate the best of their crops without the lottery of sexual reproduction. Clonal reproduction of crop species took a step closer to being realized with newly founded biology research.The authors of the research have made a form of asexual

reproduction possible in a normally sexual species, turning meiosis into mitosis. Although this is not enough to reach clonal reproduction, it is a giant leap towards it.The work of the team, formed of researchers from France

and Austria, could be very important commercially, because it makes the creation of stable new mutant crops much simpler. It is now much closer to being possible to produce perfect plants without the lottery of reassortment that each meiotic division and ensuing fertilization introduces. (Source: Public Library of Science. “Cloned Crops Closer To Being Realized.”

ScienceDaily 10 June 2009. 15 June 2009 <http://www.sciencedaily.com/

releases/2009/06/090608204055.htm>)

Food enthusiasts from all over the world are showing up at the Simon Restaurant and Lounge at the Palms Place condominium hotel in Las Vegas, eager to enjoy fresh herb-infused meals grown in-house.Grown under indoor LED lights, the potted herbs are

enclosed behind a glass wall that serves two purposes: a beautiful and unique restaurant feature for guests to enjoy and a representation of the restaurant’s sustainability theme, which is also carried through in the bamboo flooring and the sustainable food menu options.

This 6,000 square foot restaurant on the sixth floor of Palms Place is now one of the most sought-after eating

destinations in Las Vegas.(Source: www.solaroasis.

com/showcase.html)

Vegas Restaurant Entices Customers with Potted Herb Wall

Page 21: My Usa August 09
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22 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

Located on the northern outskirts of Milwaukee stands 14 greenhouses on two acres of land. “Growing Power” is the only land within the city’s limits zoned as farmland.Founded by MacArthur Foundation innovator Will

Allen in 1993, Growing Power is an active farm producing tons of food each year. It also serves as a food distribution hub and a training center. It is located in a portion of the city that is devoid of a full-service grocery store, but lined with fast-food joints, liquor and convenience stores that sell soda and sweets.This urban agriculture project grows vegetables and

fruit in its greenhouses, as well as raising goats, ducks, bees and turkeys.

Growing Power in an Urban Food Desert

hydroponic news, tips and triviaMAXfacts

The project also has a section devoted to aquaponics where tilapia and Great Lakes Perch thrive. The water from the fish tanks flows into a gravel bed, where the waste breaks down to produce nitrogen in a form plants can use. The gravel bed supports a crop of watercress, which further filters the water. The nutrient-rich water is then pumped to overhead beds to feed crops of tomatoes and salad greens.In all there are 159 varieties of food being grown.Growing Power utilizes sustainable techniques and

composts more than six million pounds of food waste every year.Growing Power provides hands-on education for

school-aged children and teenagers, good paying jobs in an area of high unemployment, healthy food and a vital source of community.

(Source: www.yesmagazine.org/article.asp?ID=3328)

Perch

Watercress

Page 24: My Usa August 09

24 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

hydroponic news, tips and triviaMAXfacts

Vitamin Mix Helps Health of Farmed FishAgricultural Research Service fish nutritionists are

making it easier for trout and other fish to get their daily dose of vitamins.Rainbow trout, farm and hatchery fish and endangered

species are gobbling up a newly developed pre-blended vitamin mix that includes a dozen essential vitamins that maintains the health of these in-demand fish.This publicly available formula will replace decades-

old formulas that weren’t adapted to today’s fish-feed processing technology known as extrusion processing, which creates heat that can damage some vitamins.The formula, now manufactured by two major

companies, has been added by feedmakers to more than 700,000 pounds of fish feeds.

(Source: www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/2009/090529.htm)

Organic Plant Waste Effective Weed Control for Citrus Trees

With the recent interest in organic crop production, growers are facing new challenges, especially in the management and removal of invasive weeds.Synthetic mulches, manufactured from petroleum-

based materials, have been used extensively for weed control, although they cause increased runoff. Natural and sustainable weed control alternatives that have shown to be of great help to Egyptian organic citrus fruit trees are sweeping the market. These natural options have been proven effective in weed suppression moisture conservation and improved water infiltration.A recent study found that the greatest control of weeds

occurred with plastic mulch and three mulch layers of rice, straw or cattail.Their effectiveness in controlling weeds may increase

their use in agriculture systems with a concomitant decrease in the need for synthetic herbicides. Further studies are being done to evaluate their side effects on beneficial organisms, diseases and insects.

(Source: American Society for Horticultural

Science. “Organic Plant Waste Proves

Effective Weed Control For Citrus Trees.”

ScienceDaily 6 January 2009. 10 June

2009 <http://www.sciencedaily.com /

releases/2008/12/081229104658.htm>)

Peeled Satsuma mandarin

Farmed Trout

Page 26: My Usa August 09

26 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

hydroponic news, tips and triviaMAXfacts

In an aggressive push to cut greenhouse gas emissions, the city of San Francisco has voted in favor of the most comprehensive mandatory composting and recycling law in the country. Building on an already successful recycling campaign, the hope is by 2020, nothing that can be composted or recycled will be sent to the landfills.As of fall 2009, every residence

and business will have three separate color-coded waste bins for recycling, composting and trash. Failure to properly sort refuse could result in a fine. Many notices will be given before an actual fine is handed out as the purpose of the project is to make recycling more convenient for everyone.

San Francisco Policy to Increase City’s Recycling Rate to 90%If this proposal is followed

effectively, approximately 2⁄3 of the 618,000 tons of waste the city sent to the landfill could be cut. Material like food scraps and plant clippings that go into landfills take up costly space and decompose to form methane, a greenhouse gas 20 times more potent than carbon dioxide.About 36 per cent of what San

Francisco sends to the landfill is compostable, and another 31 per cent is recycled, according to a comprehensive study. The city currently diverts 72 per cent of its waste, which is the best in the nation. If recyclables and compostables going into landfills were diverted, the city’s recycling rate would jump to 90 per cent.

(Source: www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/

a/2009/06/10/MN09183NV8.DTL&tsp=1)

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28 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

hydroponic news, tips and triviaMAXfacts

MY

A Swedish company is in the process of developing vertical greenhouses that grow organic fruit and vegetables in the middle of crowded cities.As the amount of available land

decreases and approximately 80 per cent of the global population expected to be living in cities in a few decades, the need to grow fruits and vegetables in an urban environment increases.The fresh organic produce grown

daily would be sold directly to consumers in the city, saving 70 per cent in the cost to ship and store produce.Although the installation cost would

be around 30 million dollars, much more than a regular greenhouse, the investment would rapidly turn a profit, according to developers.The greenhouse will utilize simple

technology, and will represent the

Crowded Cities to Sprout Skyscraper Greenhousesequivalent of 328,083 square feet of cultivated land. The finished project will resemble a large glass sphere with a pillar in the middle around which the seedlings rotate.Several other countries including

Scandinavia and China have also expressed an interested in these vertical greenhouses.

(Source: www2.canada.com/topics/technology/

science/story.html?id=1674429)

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32 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

PRODUCTspotlight ask for these exciting new products at your favorite indoor gardening store.

Flexitanks are food-grade water storage tanks. They fold up into a small package for easy transport, and then fill with up to 275 gallons of water.

• Will not rust, rot or corrode and ships for significantly less than traditional tanks.

• Made in the US with 22 ounces of extruded coated thermoplastic material, reinforced with polyester and nylon scrims.

• RF (radio frequency) welding in the fabrication process ensures fail-save welds and a contaminate-free seal.

• Excellent abrasion resistance along with great migration blocking characteristics.

• Grey color reduces UV light penetration.• Fill and drain fittings included.The Flexitank is now available at an authorized retailer

near you.

Introducing the Flexitank

Rootech Cloning Gel™, the gel that gardeners have come to rely on, is now available in a 0.25 ounce size. Rootech’s new size is ideal for the grower who leans towards small crop production. This compact jar with a resealable cap will propagate between 70 to 100 cuttings.For years, Rootech has provided it’s customers with

the performance they have come to depend on. Easy to apply and among the strongest gels on the market, with a concentration of .55 per cent I.B.A, Rootech is ideal for

propagation of the most hard-to-root plants. It can also be diluted with water for use on cuttings that will form

roots more easily.To learn more

about Rootech Cloning Gel visit

your local hydroponics retailer.

Announcing Rootech Cloning Gel™ in a New Economic Size

Page 34: My Usa August 09

34 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

PRODUCTspotlight ask for these exciting new products at your favorite indoor gardening store.

Two proprietary dry-blends from the experts at Hydro-Organics, Earth Juice® Hydro-Spice™ Grow and Bloom were designed for hydroponics. The formulas contain an array of specifically selected natural plant food ingredients, including mycorrhizae and humic acid, that only need to be applied once during both the vegetative and flowering phases to supplement and aid in the correction and prevention of hydroponic nutrient deficiencies. May be used as a premix or applied as a top-dressing. Do not add to hydroponic nutrient solutions (not water soluble). Available in grow and bloom formulations. May be used with a variety of hydroponic and liquid fertilizer solutions. For indoor/outdoor plants, soil and hydroponics. Growers are encouraged to visit their local hydroponics retailer to learn more.

Earth Juice® Hydro-Spice™ Grow and Bloom

The Thirsty Light is a digital plant moisture sensor that blinks an LED to alert the user when it is time to water a potted plant. It is designed to be unobtrusive when left in the soil of a plant, where it continuously monitors conditions, testing the moisture level once per second.Thirsty Light can sense five different

levels of dryness, causing the light to blink faster as the soil gets dryer, increasing the urgency of its call to action. When it reaches the fifth level, “completely dry,” the device goes into standby mode to conserve electricity, emitting a double blink every three seconds. There is a low-battery mode as well: a slow triple blink. The Thirsty Light comes with a comprehensive and informative user and watering guide, and is backed by a 30 day manufacturer’s warranty.The Thirsty Light is now available at an

authorized retailer near you.

Introducing the Thirsty Light

Page 36: My Usa August 09

36 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

PRODUCTspotlight

Moonshine Park Farm is excited to present Dirt God, a soil media mineral mix that provides long lasting biomass production for your plants. Dirt God is comprised of the microbe activated non-pathogenic ureaform nitrogen for enhancing large light-capturing leaf area and a bone meal growth accelerator, coarse dolomite lime and oystershell for long lasting soil media pH buffer.Minerals contained in each bag of Dirt God ensure that

your soil media has ample nutrient carrying capacity throughout the growing season. Add a 2.6 pound bag of Dirt God to 1.5 to 2.0 cubic of soil media. Now mix in five gallons of pumice for aeration. Your plants are ready to receive the powerful growth and yield enhancement of Dirt God. Use Dirt God with our three part liquid concentrates, Phantasia, K Magic and Flourish, to fully engage your plants yield and quality potential. Visit your local indoor gardening retailer to learn more about Dirt God.

Introducing the All-New Dirt God from Moonshine Park Farm

Trimpro GasolineFor the fifth

year in a row, Trimpro has been developing a new model of trimmer. We just put the final touch to our last model, the Trimpro Gasoline! The Trimpro Gasoline

is equipped with a four stroke Honda motor. It is probably the quietest and most reliable gas motor available on the market. The speed of the motor can easily be adjusted by the user at all time. They can also use the machine either as a “table top” trimmer or install the “Automatik” top since both components are included with the machine.The Trimpro Gasoline is available at your local indoor

gardening retail store.

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38 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

PRODUCTspotlight ask for these exciting new products at your favorite indoor gardening store.

Continued on page 124

Secret Jardin’s DarkRoom Accessories Kit contains everything you need to take your portable grow room from the “empty box” stage to the “Look at those things grow” stage! These all-in-one companion kits contain an array of handy tools that will keep return trips to the indoor gardening store to a minimum, like plant ties, pockets for environmental controllers, scissors, repair tape, cable ties, dry nets, individual plant reflectors and more! DarkRoom Accessories Kits are available in large and small sizes, with each kit offering tools and gear for a range of DarkRoom sizes. The DarkRoom Accessories Kit is now available at your local hydroponics retailer.

An All-Accessories Pass to the DarkRoom

C.A.P. is proud to present the NightLight. Lightweight and durable, the NightLight attaches comfortably to your ear and shines wherever you grow! The light will not disrupt your plant’s environment during night time hours. Complete with an ultra bright green LED and a swivel head for versatility and easy adjusting. Three cell batteries are included. A great tool for all indoor gardeners. For more information on C.A.P. products please contact your local retail distributor.

The New NightLight from C.A.P.

Page 42: My Usa August 09

STRANDS OF GOLDgrowing Saffron by Dr. Lynette Morgan

Saffron – a delicate, exotic and expensive spice from far away lands? Not necessarily so. Saffron spice consists of the dark red-gold, dried stigma of the saffron corm flower and has tradition-ally been grown outdoors on a commercial scale in countries such as Spain, India and Iran where the climate is warm and dry and labor cheap for the time consuming process of harvesting. However, saffron is not difficult to grow indoors and these days saffron bulbs are readily obtainable at the right time of year for those who want to grow some of their own exotic spice. While saffron bulbs may take up little space, their yield is somewhat low – it takes around two pounds of fresh flowers to give 2.5 ounces of red stigmas, which when dried results in a yield of 0.4 ounces of usable spice. Each saffron corm usually produces between one and three flowers in a season so yields per square foot are perhaps one of the lowest of any hydroponic plant. On the other hand, most recipes only require a few strands of dried saffron, so production from a square foot of growing space is usually sufficient for most gourmets.

42 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

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What is saffron?There are many imitations and cheap substitutes for saffron on

the culinary market. Some of these consist of counterfeit strands while others are just color substitutes of cheaper spices such as turmeric. Saffron, although having a long shelf life, is best used within a year of drying and it is difficult to tell if product many years old is being sold as top quality spice. Nothing equals the intense color and subtle flavor of true saffron and some even claim that there are slight flavor variations between saffron grown in different regions of the world. Saffron is the world’s highest priced spice and is often sold by the gram or half gram of the best quality product. As with most crops, it is likely that the growing conditions, soil type, nutrition, temperatures, plant health and harvesting, handling and drying practices play a major role in the final quality and flavor of this spice. Hydro-ponic production where we have control over basic nutrition and supplements and indoors where temperature, light and the growing environment can be manipulated, give the potential for some extremely high quality saffron to be grown.

Flowers and foliage bursting forth from a recently planted saffron corm.

Each brilliant purple flower will produce two to three strands of saffron.

The saffron plantThe saffron crocus (Crocus sativus L) grows from a small

rounded corm (similar to a bulb). The corms are purchased while dormant, and planted out in late summer or early fall when they rapidly burst into life with the production of small crocus flowers. This exotic spice is made from the dried red-gold stigma which forms inside the blue/purple flower. Each flower produces on average three stigmas which gives three strands of saffron. After flowering, the plant resumes vegetative growth of thin, dark green strap like leaves and then multiplies itself with the production of many small daughter corms.Nowadays saffron corms are sold by various seed suppliers and

nurseries in small quantities for home gardeners to purchase. However, bulbs are not usually available year round and are commonly advertised for sale in mid to late summer through until fall. When buying corms for the first time, it is important to realize that like many flowering bulbs, the corms come in size grades from very small (0.6 grams) which would be a non flowering type requiring an additional season’s growth, to very large (24 grams). The smaller corms are usually less expensive, but they may not produce flowers in the first season or produce a much lower yield of saffron and a lower number of daughter corms after flowering. The best planting grade for hydroponics is around 15 grams which is usually over an inch in diameter. The corms arrive dry in a dormant state ready for planting out.

43MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

"Saffron is the world’s highest priced spice."

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Strands of Gold: Growing Saffron

Saffron can be grown in the smallest of spaces and even just a pot of corms will give a good harvest.

Indoor SaffronIndoors, there are two ways of running a saffron system – the

dormant corms can be purchased, planted, flowered, harvested and the corms discarded, all over a six week period. Or af-ter the short flowering period, the bulbs can be grown on, producing vegetation and new daughter cormlets over a period of many months, until they become dormant in mid summer. The first system means the corms are planted at a high density since they won’t be grown on and multiplied. This sort of bulb ‘forcing’ could also be carried out in solution culture systems such as those used for tulips and other flowering bulbs where the corm is supported with its base in water. The second system needs more space for the plants to fully develop and many months of caring for the corms after they flower, although the reward is a sup-ply of new corms which could be sold or given away to others and a higher yield of flowers in the next year. Tying up your hydroponic system with vegetative saffron for nine to 10 months however may not be attractive to those with limited space, although trays of saffron plants are cold hardly and can be put outside for winter and spring if necessary.Corms can be stored in a dry place and planted out when the

hydroponic system is ready. The spacing should be approxi-

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46 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

mately four to five inches apart and 1.5 to two inches deep, in a tray of free draining, sterile growing media such as coconut fiber with some perlite mixed in. The media needs to support the plants, but at the same time be friable enough for the young corms to form without deformities so any substrate used for baby root crops would be suitable.The flowers will have already been initiated in the corms

during the summer dormancy period and flowering will occur when moisture is provided and temperatures start to drop in fall. Flowering is triggered by environmental conditions such as temperate and moisture which is easily manipulated in a hydroponic grow room. The ideal conditions during flower-ing are 16 hour day length with day temperatures of 62oF and night temperatures of 53oF. An indoor grow room or green-house situation means the flowers are protected from rain, moisture, wind and the lack of weeds makes harvesting of high quality flowers much easier.

The Grow RoomAfter flowering the foliage grows best at 60 to 65oF, with 12 to

14 hours of light to keep enough photosynthesis going to bulk up the developing cormlets. Saffron typically flowers in autumn over a short period, then produces a number of strap-like leaves which grow through winter, spring and into summer, providing

Strands of Gold: Growing Saffron

Saffron flowers may develop before, after or at the same time as foliage develops from the corm.

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food reserves for the corm and develop-ing new cormlets. After flowering and harvest in autumn, foliage will develop quite rapidly and during this time, a stan-dard vegetative nutrient should be given to the plants as required. Recommended EC levels are 1.2 – 1.4 during this stage. Leaf growth will continue until summer when the young corms start to rapidly develop around the mother corm.In their natural environment, the saf-

fron plants’ foliage dies back in mid to late summer, after the young corms have

easily replicate this by drying the media back after the cormlets have formed and the foliage has died down. Having a dig around one of the plants will soon reveal if the corms are ready for harvest and dormancy. The tray of saffron corms, once fully dried, can be harvested and stored away in a dry, dark place until they need to be planted out for flower pro-duction. This is a time consuming process as the saffron plant needs many months (nine to 10) after flowering, until harvest of the new corms with only one harvest of flowers per year obtained. However, each mother corm, after flowering will produce a number (four to 10 or more) young cormlets that can be used to pro-duce more flowers and greater harvests of saffron spice in the following season.

Flowering and HarvestingFlowering of the corms will typi-

cally occur quite quickly after planting; within a few weeks the first emerging flower buds should be seen. The flow-ers will fully open within three to five days and be ready for harvest. As each flower blooms, it should be plucked or snipped from the plant and taken away for processing. Inside the flower there will be two or three thinner dark red colored stigmas which form the saffron spice when dried; there will also be three,

Strands of Gold: Growing Saffron

Long, thin strap like leaves are formed after the saffron corm has finished flowering.

matured and as conditions become very warm and dry. The corms then go into a dormancy period which is essential for initiating the next season’s flowers which will bloom in the cooler, moist conditions of fall. In hydroponics we can

"The tray of saffron corms, once fully dried, can be

harvested and stored away in a dry, dark place until they

need to be planted out for flower production."

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Strands of Gold: Growing Saffron

and then snip the red strands at the base. These will then need to be dried before storage. Saffron is very delicate and the strands should be placed on white paper and allowed to air dry and fully desiccate. Any slight breeze will blow the strands away and home dehydrators are not well suited to this. Being small and very light, the saffron will dry within a week in most cases and can then be stored in air tight glass jars. A small package of sili-con desiccant can be used to make sure any additional moisture on the strands or in the air does not cause any storage problems. Insufficiently dried saffron can go moldy, so additional air drying time is recommended if humidity levels are high.While it has become possible for home gardeners to grow a

container or pot with a few saffron bulbs outdoors, often just for the novelty of seeing the flowers, there has not been a great deal of research into hydroponic or aeroponic production of this spice. It is likely that the best system will be similar to the hydroponic production of forced tulips and other bulbs with the actual flowering phase being carried out indoors or under pro-tection to give the highest possible blooms, while the plants are propagated and bulbs grown outdoors through until dormancy.

shorter, wider, golden colored anthers which usually have pollen on their surface – these are not part of the spice and should be discarded. The easiest way of removing the saffron stigmas from the centre of the flower, is to pull back and remove all the petals

"Saffron is very delicate and the strands should be placed on white paper and

allowed to air dry and fully desiccate."

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52 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

A bevy of spicy saffron recipes are available at www.maximumyield.com

Strands of Gold: Growing Saffron

Outdoor producers are restricted to one crop of saffron per season, however with an indoor grow room, the environment can easily be manipulated to give the dry warmth of summer to initiate flowering followed by cooler, damper conditions to induce flowering whenever it is required.

References:`The Growth of Saffron (Crocus sativus L.) in

Aeroponics and Hydroponics’ Fredric V Souret and P J Weathers. Published in: Journal of Herbs, Spices and Medicinal Plants, Volume 7, Issue 3, 2000. ISBN 1049-6475

Supplies of saffron corms:http://www.nicholsgardennursery.comhttp://www.whiteflowerfarm.comhttp://www.richters.com

MY

Harvested strands of saffron, ready for drying.

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GROWINGfor health

Marjoram and

Oregano

Reprinted withpermission bywww.simply-hydroponics.com

Many cooks prefer to grow their own oregano. This is possible in pots or an herb garden if you live in a temperate zone. Oregano grown in cooler areas is often bitter, so be sure your garden is warm or consider growing the plant inside.An alternative method would be to grow oregano using

a hydroponic system of gardening. These systems are technologically based and require no soil or direct sunlight, so they can be used anywhere - including your basement or shed.

The Variety of OreganoToday there are a few popular

kinds of oregano. The two most common are Mexican oregano, which developed after the Spanish introduced the plant to the New World, or Mediterranean oregano which has been grown wild and cultivated far longer.Mexican oregano is stronger

in flavor than the Mediterranean variety, but all oregano plants can differ in intensity. Today, most Mediterranean oregano is grown in Italy and Greece, while Mexican oregano is grown in Mexico, California and New Mexico.

Oregano and marjoram are often confused or simply considered the same herb. They are not, however. Oregano has long been called wild marjoram, but scientists have discovered that the two herbs are actually distinct. This is hardly relevant, however, as throughout history the two herbs are used interchangeably.

History of OreganoOregano and marjoram have a history touched by the divine.

It is said that Aphrodite, the Greek goddess, created the herb which accounts for its sweet smell and taste. The herb was her favorite, and it was well loved by the Greeks as well.Oregano grew wild on the hills of ancient Greece, and it was

often used for grazing goats and sheep. The sweet herb was believed to make the meat of these animals more tender and delicious. In fact, the name of oregano is based on the Greek words, oros and ganos. Translated, the two words mean “Joy of the Mountains,” a very suitable name for a delicious wild herb.Oregano was first noticed in Greece, but was popular

throughout Europe as it spread. It was introduced in the Americas by the Spanish as part of colonization, and has flourished in countries such as Mexico and the Southwestern United States.

Using OreganoThere are many uses for oregano, but the most popular are

tomato based dishes. Oregano is used as a fresh sprig or dried for seasoning, and can be purchased at any grocery or cooking store. The overall flavor of the herb is warm and savory, but can be a bit bitter - especially with oregano grown in cooler climates.

Green Marjoram

Oregano sprig

MY

56 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

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Nutrient Ratios for Modern Crops

by Erik BiksaWho has determined what the N-P-K values and ratios are that you feed your prized crop through the vegetative and bloom phases of growth? What about other important macro elements such as calcium and magnesium, and the complex relationships that trace elements such as boron, iron, zinc and manganese have with the other nutrient ions that influence the health and development of plants? There are 13 elements that are considered vital to plant growth, with many others showing to be beneficial. This gives a lot of possibilities in terms of the potential ratios and concentrations that these elements may have in a crop feeding nutrient solution; for example think, of the possible number of combinations you could have rolling 13 dice all at once.

"Products that have been developed

through research on modern indoor

crops are now available to indoor

growers, although some growers

continue to use out-dated technologies

to achieve moderate harvests."

58 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

???

?Is ThaT The BesT You CaN Do?

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59MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

So, now back to the question: “Who has determined the nutrient values and ratios in your crop feeding program?” All right, well most folks are likely to say “the manufacturer.” Okay, so the manufacturer determined the nutrient ratios. That beckons the question of how they were able to determine what concentrations and ratios of plant nutrient elements to provide for your particular crop and at what times in the vegetative and bloom phases of growth. Well from there you can only guess, unless you have information that says otherwise.Chances are that the nutrient solution was formulated based

on previous research that was performed on the nutrient requirements of various crops. Obviously, any reputable nutri-ent manufacturer will have also tested their formulation and will make adjustments, as required. There are hydroponic crop feeding solutions that were formulated in 1865, although Hoagland appears to have created the first “complete” nutri-ent solution in the 1930s. Since then, modern scientists and horticulturalists have learned much about plants and their nutrient requirements. One of the key points of knowledge is that different types of plants use nutrients in different quanti-ties and ratios; creating preferred nutrient profiles for various types of plants. On top of that, the same type of plants will use nutrients differently when grown using different cultural practices or when grown in different climatic conditions. For example, outdoor field crops in natural settings that take six months to reach maturity versus indoor crops grown in artifi-cial environments that will require only three months to reach maturity are hardly playing on the same ball field.What does this all mean, and where is this article going with

it? Well, to put it bluntly, there are a surprising number of nutrient formulations that are simply “wrong” for modern indoor growing, and here’s why:

• The formulation(s) has been based on un-applicable or less relevant research information. The data gathered growing field crops using conventional methods tells us something, however, it cannot be accurately used to create optimal nu-trient ratios for the unique requirements of modern crops grown indoors.

• For optimal results, crop formulas need to be created specifi-cally for the type of crop being grown and the types of conditions it is being grown under; what’s optimal for one type of plant will not be optimal for another. One size does not fit all. However, nutrient components may be tailored by savvy growers to create the optimal profile for their particular plant type; provided that the grower knows what those ratios are.

• The optimal nutrient ratios change slightly through different crop developmental phases such as in the seedling/cutting phase versus the vegetative growth phase versus the bloom phase. It’s important to know what these changes are and to have them reflected in the crop feeding schedule.

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Nutrient Ratios for Modern Crops

In the end, most growers are putting a lot of trust in the manufacturer of their chosen nutrients. This is all well and good, as your success as a grower will be their success as a manufacturer. However, have you really stopped to think and ask: what exactly do they know, and where have they got-ten their information from? Sure, if the plant is supplied the 13 major essential elements it requires it will live and grow. If the ratios of these elements are supplied at the correct times and mirror the plants demand for those nutrients and in those ratios, the plants can grow at optimal levels. It’s possible that many of us who have harvested very healthy and seemingly large yielding indoor crops were not in fact harvesting the optimal crop, leaving much more room for improvement than we may have realized. Just to back this point up a bit, consider 10 years ago that the majority of indoor growers were yielding ½ of what they can yield today, in the same space, using the same amount of electricity. Yes, of course there are exceptions, although that does appear to be the rule of thumb.So, why the improvement? There are several reasons, includ-

ing plant genetics. However, a large part of this increase can be attributed to nutrient formulations and grow gear that have started to evolve to specifically address artificial and intensive modern growing environments and the types of plants that people like to grow in them. This article is here to state that there is still much more to be done in the way of research and improvements in nutrient formulations that are intended for intensive artificial growing environments and the new breed of plants being grown in them. Products that have been developed through research on modern indoor crops are now available to indoor growers, while some growers continue to use out-dated technologies to achieve moderate harvests.

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Now that’s a bold state-ment. Well, here’s a little dose of proof:Ask an experienced

grower what the most important crop element is in the bloom phase, and the vast major-ity of the time you will hear phospho-rous, which is the “P” in “N-P-K”. Yes, phosphorous is important, now asking the grower a follow-up question along the lines of “why is that the most im-portant element?” Chances are you will hear, “because it’s used the most in the bloom phase.”Wrong. Due to archaic field crop

research crossed over into nutrient formulations intended for modern high producing indoor crops, there are some really huge misconceptions about what is optimal for nutrient ratios in the bloom phase for indoor crops grown in artificial environments. The simplest way to illustrate this fact is to look at one of

the most popular types of products in the hydroponics industry, and that’s the “bloom booster.”The majority of bloom boosters

contain very high levels of phospho-rous and moderate to lower amounts of potassium. They may also contain other macro and micro elements including magnesium, sulfur and iron. Growers begin to apply these types of products through the early bloom phase and late into flowering prior to “flushing” the crop before harvest. There seems to be a general consensus that the modern indoor containerized (or “systemized,” if you prefer) plant in the bloom phase needs abundant amounts of phosphorous relative to other nutrients. Well the truth is that they do not, because:

Nutrient Ratios for Modern Crops

"As indoor growers we are applying

too much phosphorous because the

recommendations for applications

and formulations have been based on

outdoor field agriculture practices."

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64 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

1. Phosphorous is highly available to containerized or systemized plants grown indoors relative to outdoor conditions where it is quickly leeched away from the root zone via mass flow.

2.When examining analytical reports charting the nutrient profile of a high yielding indoor crop at harvest (plant tissue analysis) it becomes clear that even in a variety of strains with-in the same plant type, that the plant requires nearly five times more each nitrogen and potassium relative to phosphorous.

For example, if the plants el-emental profile at harvest time was analyzed to reveal that healthy yields consisted primarily of nitrogen, potassium and calcium relative to phosphorous, why then are growers applying so much phos-phorous (relative to other nutrient elements) in the bloom phase, and more importantly, what effect is this over abundance of phosphorous having on crops? To answer the first part of the question, as indoor growers we

are applying too much phosphorous because the recommen-dations for applications and formulations have been based on outdoor field agriculture practices, which simply don’t apply

directly to indoor gardens. In nature the soil is very deep, and roots do not occupy the entire body of soil as they do in con-tainers, beds or systems found with indoor gardens. Phosphorous leeches from the root zone in natural soils quickly, washing away from the contact zone with plant roots, as it drains with water further into the depths of the earth. To ensure a healthy supply of phosphorous, outdoor conventional field agricultural growers do a sort of “over-application” of phosphorous, because it has been determined that much of it will be quickly leeched away from the plant roots; what remains at any given time can be taken up by the crop. From this, we can learn that excessive “P” values in our N-P-Ks are not necessary for indoor growers, where phos-phorous maintains a high level of contact within the root zone of plants grown in artificial soils and in containers, beds and systems commonly found with intensive indoor growing environments.Now what affects can excessive phosphorous levels have on

crops? Firstly, excessive levels of phosphorous can create nutrient imbalances in the root zone, and consequently inside the plant.

Nutrient Ratios for Modern Crops

"To build the biggest and heaviest

flowers and fruits, bloom boosters

should supply more than just the correct P:K ratios."

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This creates a form of stress in the plant which can dimin-ish yield potential and increase the plant’s susceptibility to problems such as insects and diseases. Conversely, it can also be said that a slight stress induction from excess phosphorous may have some benefits in the late bloom/ripening phase as the plants reach maturity. However, creating this stress from early in the bloom phase and continuing it throughout will not create the correct nutrient profile for optimal harvest potential. This is not to say that growers should not supply phosphorous throughout the bloom phase, although it is to say that grower’s crops will yield larger harvests if phosphorus is supplied in the correct and balanced ratios with other nu-trients, as determined through careful tissue analysis of indoor crops versus conventional field agricultural data.In simple terms, based on the macro and micro nutrient pro-

file analysis of a healthy, high yielding indoor crop (plant tissue analysis) growers have some options with how best to address the nutritional requirements of their favorite crop to get bigger yields than they have ever been able to achieve before.Firstly, don’t apply bloom boosters with high phosphorous to

potassium ratios continually through the bloom phase. For the first week of flowering to help trigger the natural plant stresses that amplify the plant’s flowering process, it’s okay to give the crop a dose of bloom boosters that have higher P to K ratios in the NPK values stated on the label. Usually, these types of bloom boosters that are formulated for indoor crops at the on-set of flowering will also have other components in the formu-lation that help to control vertical growth; stacking internodes and flowering sites tighter together for each foot of vertical growth to give maximum yields.After the first week

of flowering where a “trigger” bloom booster maybe used to help ignite the bloom phase, you may begin to apply a balanced P:K bloom

Nutrient Ratios for Modern Crops

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booster in conjunction with a balanced base nutrient program. If you have gleamed anything from this article, you will be wondering what the appropriate P:K ratio would be for indoor flowering crops, and current research has been demonstrat-ing that a 1:2 ratio seems to work best, the polar opposite of some of the bloom boosters currently being used by indoor growers. To build the biggest and heaviest flowers and fruits, bloom boosters should supply more than just the correct P:K ratios. Additions of L-amino acids and other forms of reduced nitrogen will further amplify and enhance the plant’s natural reproductive response, leading to bigger and heavier harvests of higher quality. Magnesium and sulfur are also very important components in the bloom process of most indoor crops.In the late flowering phase, when the plant is ripening, and

in some instances producing elevated levels of essential oils, a slight “spike” in phosphorous levels will induce a level of stress that can help to enhance crop quality. For example, this is when a 2:1 P:K ratio may be appropriate. Note that at this time, the plant is not developing structurally anymore. All crops should be sufficiently flushed of excess nutrients, beginning at least one week before the anticipated date of harvest. This is accom-plished by applying a leeching agent to the growing medium or system and then running straight water possibly with digestive enzymes and/or humates for the final days before harvest. Three part base nutrient systems have been widely used

and accepted through the indoor gardening community, and have been delivering great results for years. Based on modern research conducted on indoor grown high yielding crops, it was determined that using the three part nutrient system actually produced better results when being applied in a 1:1:1 ratio versus the common 3:2:1 ratio, especially when bloom boosters intended for indoor crops were used in conjunction with the three part nutrient system. 2:1 ratios of three part base nutrients were the least effective of all (where the “grow” component was omitted entirely through the bloom phase).

Nutrient Ratios for Modern Crops

"Using the three part nutrient system on indoor crops produces better results when being applied in a 1:1:1 ratio versus the common 3:2:1 ratio."

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Nutrient Ratios for Modern Crops

MY

To access 10+ years of Erik Biksa's articles, visit www.maximumyield.com

and click on author archive.

Upon analyzing the nutrient levels and ratios achieved in the nutrient solution for feeding indoor crops in the bloom phase, applying the base nutrients in a 1:1:1 ratio using popular three part nutrient components, the level and ratios much more closely resembled those of the internal nutrient levels and ratios of the plant being grown versus using the three part nutrient components in the common 3:2:1 method.After all is said and done, there is only really one way to

find out what is going to give you the biggest and best quality harvests, and that’s to experiment a little. If anything, it’s the hope of this article that you will begin to question where the nutrient values you are using having been de-rived from, and if they are in fact correct for your modern indoor crop. You just may find that by tinkering with the products you are already using or better yet, by adopting more modern formulations, that you are able to surpass even your largest yield expectations. So, if in the last decade we have been able to nearly double yields through research and experimentation on indoor crops, just imagine the types of harvest we may have in another 10 years. This advancement cannot continue, however, without growers who are will-ing to push the limits and boundaries of what is held as the “common truth” of the times, because more often than not, it won’t remain “the truth” forever.

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BEGINNER'Scorner

About the Author: Jack Stone writes articles on many topics including gardening. His website http://hydroponicslinks.com discusses various topics related to hydroponics systems, lighting, nutrients, etc. For further information on hydroponics visit his website or to read more about hydroponics lights go to http://hydroponicslinks.com/hydroponics/hydroponics-light-grow.html Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jack_Stone

HydroponicsLigHting:

74 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

Hydroponic lights play a major part in the success of your hydroponics project. Most hydroponic gardens are indoors and as such they need to have lighting of some kind. While you may be tempted to try using incandescent bulbs and lamps for light in your hydroponics system, they don’t provide the right kind of light that your plants will need to thrive and grow. Hydroponics systems need full spectrum lighting that mimics the light from the sun. Specific types of hydroponics gardens will also need a specific type of lighting.Many of you that are looking to put together a hydroponics

kit will find that there is a range of hydroponics lighting on the market.Hydroponic vegetables grow best in blue spectrum light,

which is a cooler form of light. Metal Halide lights are the most popular form of blue spectrum lighting. Hydroponics flowering plants grow best in red-orange light. The best type of red-orange light is the high pressure sodium light (HPS).Blue spectrum light is great for leafy plants, such as lettuce,

radish or collard. It also helps to keep the plant nice and compact.

Many find the plants in their hydroponics garden getting leggy as it strains for the light; blue light helps to combat this. This is the best type of hydroponics system light for a primary light source. The average metal halide light gives around 10,000 hours of good light. After that it will start to put out less and less light. The average metal halide light can put out a range of light from 175 watts to 1000 watts or more. The wattage output you choose depends on how big your hydroponics system is. Are you just putting together a small homemade hydroponics kit or are you setting up a larger hydroponics garden?High Pressure Sodium lights producing an orange-red

spectrum last around 18,000 hours. It’s best for flowering plants, such as paper whites and iris. The orange-red light stimulates plants hormones, which makes for more flowering in the plant. Be careful about placing a young plant under red-orange light. It may grow very quickly but you will see only vertical growth and it will become lanky and thin. This is because of the lack of blue spectrum light available to the new plant. The average wattage is about the same for red-orange lights, ranging from 175 to 1000 watts. Of course if you’re looking to cover more area, then you can find professional grow lights in any spectrum with a higher wattage.The best way to light your hydroponics system seems to

be with a combination of blue and red-orange light, to keep plants compact and flowering. Or you can simply purchase a full spectrum light; you can buy fluorescent lights for this. They are available in tubes or compact bulbs. Fluorescent lighting is mostly used to grow seedlings, but it will certainly grow a plant to maturity. This type of lighting can be an easy way to light your hydroponics system without the complication of hooking up both blue and red-orange lights or remembering which is which.

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Blue Spectrum

Red-Orange SpectrumVS

by Jack Stone

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by Evan Folds

Plants and SoundsIt’s easy to be confused when discussing the idea of frequencies.

We measure light and sound in the same way (hertz), but how are they different? We have to rely on instruments to measure these frequencies and most of what we pay attention to is the numbers, not what the numbers actually mean. When we think of measurable frequencies in regards to growing plants, most of our attention is directed towards the visible portions of the electromagnetic spectrum (ROY G BIV). The electromagnetic spectrum is defined by light waves and, in addition to the visible portion, is comprised of radio waves, infrared, x-rays and gamma rays. However, the electromagnetic spectrum does not contain sound waves. Light, electricity and magnetism are all manifesta-tions of electromagnetic radiation and do not need a medium to travel through, but sound waves are like ripples in a lake or a flag. They rely on the molecules in water and air to get from A to B, which is why light waves travel through space and sound does not. Considering this, when was the last time you paid attention to what it sounds like in your grow room? What if the question was not which light to purchase, but what album?

Most of us know somebody or have heard a story of someone who speaks to their plants. Even Prince Charles is well known for his fondness of conversing with plants, saying in a television interview in 1986 that it was “very important” to talk to plants and that they “respond” when spoken to. When giving talks on subjects of metaphysical gardening it is always interesting to hear the stories of success and confirmation offered by people who attend and feel compelled to share their experiences. Some profess to whispering sweet nothings or singing their favorite songs to their plants and others tell of how they notice that certain types of music have markedly different effects on plants in their homes or offices. Of course the people do not produce proof, yet they know it is true. This subjective certainty is born of practice and intuition and is quite lost from the modern ap-proach to science, but is not to be ignored.

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"Light, electricity and magnetism are all manifestations of electromagnetic radiation and do not need a medium to travel through, but sound

waves are like ripples in a lake or a flag."

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The sounds of nature are innumerable and clumsily con-sistent, resulting in a symphony of subtle sounds flowing together to create a living and vibrant concerto. Since time immemorial plants have been serenaded in these seasonal sounds and have come to rely on them in the same way they have other environmental factors for growth. Is this really such an unexpected thing? Of course, one should not expect to be able to replicate this natural phenomenon with any exactness, but with persistence and research we can tap into this symbiosis in order to enhance the growth of our plants, or more directly, attempt to replicate the natural environment from which they have been removed.Researchers have demonstrated that plants respond to

acoustic energy in profound ways that not only influence their overall health, but also increase the rate of growth and size of the plant. Through years of research and a stroke of spiritual insight, Dan Carlson determined the combination of frequencies found between 3,000 to 5,000 kHz causes the stomata of plants to open and absorb nutrients more efficiently. Because the ability and desire of the plant to take up nutrition was altered due to its enhanced capability, it took 15 years to develop a corresponding foliar spray designed specifically for

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Plants and Sounds

use with the sound frequencies Carlson called Sonic Bloom. His insight has been used by countless farmers and even resulted in growing the largest indoor plant on record according to the Guinness Book. Purple Passion plants normally grow about 18 inches and live 18 months. When treated with the Sonic Bloom process, Carlson’s plant grew to 1,300 feet and was still alive 25 years later. Sonic Bloom has been chronicled in the book Secrets of the Soil and is now available for use from industry wholesalers, so let the experiments begin!

Another pioneer in the realm of acoustic gardening is Joel Sternheimer. He studied elementary particle physics at Princ-eton and through his studies of scale resonance was inspired to investigate the vibrational frequencies of amino acids. The ribo-some is the factory of the cell; it catalyzes the creation of pro-teins from a variety of 20 amino acids depending on the needs of the cell and the corresponding organism. During this process of translation in the ribosome, the amino acids are considerably slowed, allowing researchers to measure the specific frequency of each one as a “note.” When the sequence of a certain protein is recognized, each amino acid (note) can be transcribed into a sequence, or melody. When Sternheiner successfully replicated the correct melodies for the selected proteins he noticed that it encouraged the production of the corresponding protein and stimulated growth. After all, amino acids are critical to life. Sternheiner has filed for several patents based on his work and claims that tomatoes exposed to his melodies grew 2.5 times as large as those that were untreated.In the landmark book The Secret Life of Plants (1973) the re-

search of Dorothy Retallack is investigated. In order to com-plete her music degree she chose to experiment with plants using different types of music as a laboratory experiment. Amazingly, through rigorous trial and error she determined that plants prefer classical music - such as Brahms, Beethoven and

"The sounds of nature are innumerable and clumsily consistent, resulting in a

symphony of subtle sounds flowing together to create a

living and vibrant concerto."

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Schubert - over rock and roll, such as Zeppelin and Hendrix. Oddly, Jazz recordings from artists such as Duke Ellington and Louis Armstrong resulted in roughly half of the plants being experimented on leaning towards the speaker and half lean-ing away. Through more experimentation Retallack concluded that it was not the genre of music having the influence, but the range of instruments and resonance used. She determined that the percussion frequencies of music were harmful to plants, re-sulting in as little as 1⁄4 the root growth of control plants and in some cases death. It is research such as this that forces us to consider the subtle senses of plants. Specimens such as Mimosa pudica and the Venus Fly Trap are sensi-tive to touch, so is it not plausible that plants can also listen?In 2007 South Korean scientist Mi-Jeong Jeong claimed playing

Beethoven’s Moonlight Sonata to rice plants encouraged quicker growth and blossoms to bloom earlier. The researchers claim they have identified plant genes that can “hear,” potentially allowing farmers to switch specific plant genes on and off with enormous repercussions. The results showed that sounds at specific frequen-cies – 125 hertz and 250 hertz - made genes rbcS and Ald more active, whereas sound waves at 50 hertz made them less active. Because both are known to respond to light, they repeated the experiments in the dark and concluded definitively that the sound was causing the effect. The researchers speculated that the production of chemicals that lead to the genetic changes they observed could be harnessed to activate other specific genes that could trigger the enhanced flowering of crops.In a more recent development, the Royal Horticultural Society

(RHS), Britain’s leading gardening charity dedicated to advancing horticulture, has initiated a serious study investigating the efficacy of talking to plants. Gardener Colin Crosby says, “We know that sounds of between 125 hertz and 250 hertz can affect gene ex-

Plants and Sounds

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pression in plants and help them grow, but this has only been test-ed using music. For the first time we will be able to advise people not only whether it’s worth talking to their plants but exactly how it should be done. We may even be able to standardize the practice by recording the perfect voice for those less confident in conversing with their plants.” Toby Buckland, lead presenter on BBC Gardeners’ World, says, “A lot of thinking behind this is that if a gardener is relaxed, it helps the plants grow better. Plants do pick up on your stress, that’s something that’s well known, and if you’re not confident, it’s as if it’s a self-fulfilling prophecy for failure.” http//news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/7973727.stmIt can be a very profound and life-changing experience to

become comfortable with how at ease others are in the realms of the supersensible and plant sensation. It can literally change your view of the world on a dime. Could it be that plants can truly pick up on our emotions, that they can sense our presence and react to our voices? This may be a new question for you, but how are we supposed to know unless we try? Rather than ques-tioning whether plants are affected by sound, maybe we should be asking ourselves why they wouldn’t.It turns out that sometimes plants create sounds themselves as

well. On a business trip into the backwoods of Siberia in 1994 an entrepreneur named Vladimir Megre met two elderly gentle-men who told him about the amazing properties of the Siberian cedar. The men explained to Vladimir that the trees grow to be around 500 years old, but every 1000 years or so after 550 years of its life, one of the elderly trees begins to ring audibly. As the two men described, the Siberian cedar is a conduit of high amounts of beneficial energy and this is the trees way of com-municating that it is ready to share. After Vladimir’s return to the place where he met these elderly men he met their grand-daughter Anastasia, who he lived with for a period of time in the taiga of Siberia. Anastasia taught Vladimir many things and showed him how she was attempting to help right the wrongs of the world from afar. From his experiences, and despite the fact that Vladimir is not a writer, he has written eight books about his experiences that have now been translated into over 20 different languages and been remarked upon by people ranging from the President of Russia Dmitriy Medvedev to the author of Chicken Soup for the Soul Mark Victor Hansen. The book series, as well as pendants, nut oils and other Siberian cedar related products, can be found under the name Ringing Cedars of Russia on a simple web search.We certainly didn’t learn about any of this in school, but open

your mind and you may be surprised what you might find. Next time someone tells you you’re crazy for talking to your plants, you can tell them where to go…to the local library.

A multitude of innovators have tested the theories of sounds effect on plants. Learn more

about them at www.maximumyield.com

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In Search of the Mythical Green Thumb

GREEN THUMBgardening

by Glory Lennon

They say there are people so possessed in an extraordinary, inherent ability to make things grow that they simply have to look at a seed, touch a cutting, caress a branch or stroke a leaf and it will sprout, grow and prosper at the speed of light. If you believe this to be true then perhaps you’d be interested in purchasing the slightly damp Dismal Swamp at a very good price of two dollars per acre and be done with it.You, however, are not that gullible. You should know, #1- the

Dismal Swamp is currently not for sale at any price and #2- the Mythical Green Thumb is exactly that, mythical. It does not exist, never has, never will. What does exist is folks who learn from plants and, therefore, are more apt to be able to have green things do their bidding. It truly isn’t that difficult to make things grow. We all start at the beginning. It’s just that some of us keep at it until it looks like we have a special touch or a green thumb if you will - mostly to those who have long since put up their hands in defeat.

So, if this is the case, how is the “brown thumbed” among us to get green? To use the old Nike catch phase, “Just do it.” To earn the title of a person possessing a green thumb (yes, it needs to be earned) you must be willing to get not only your hands dirty but also your knees, shoes, clothes and even your nose. The true mark of an accomplished green thumber is a pollen-yellowed nose from too much flower smelling. If you didn’t even know that much then we do have our work cut out for us so let’s get started.

SeedsAs seeds are the beginning of life, any life, so shall we begin

with them. The seed can be practically microscopic as in those of the Foxglove plant, Digitalis Purpureum, to the largest, the coconut. That’s right, the coconut is the seed of the coconut palm and if you were to plant a coconut it would, eventually, grow into a tree. Some seeds can be tricky while others are so eager to sprout they merely need to touch moist soil to germinate. It is these kinds of seeds the beginning gardener should try just to get the hang of things and build their confidence. Confidence is the one thing green thumbers have in abundance whether they deserve it or not.If you were to take Marigold, Sunflower, Daisy, Black-Eyed

Susan or Liatris seeds and scatter them in a haphazard manner over nicely tilled, rich loam soil, gently pat them in place then water well you would be hard pressed not to build yourself some confidence when you see them all sprout up and leaf out. They are that easy to grow.

CuttingsWhile a bit trickier the cutting can be the first attempt at

hydroponic gardening in the simplest of forms. Golden Pathos, the ordinary house plant with the typical vining habit and variegated leaves, Philodendron, Coleus or even Willow or Forsythia branches can all be easily rooted in water and once they grow roots they can be planted in pots for indoor use or straight into the garden. Propagating in this manner is called vegetative but to make you remember it better just think cloning. You’ve taken a piece of a mother plant and cloned it into an exact copy. Your thumb’s looking greener already, isn’t it?

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TransplantsWhile green thumbers scoff at those who buy transplants

from the garden center instead of growing their vegetables from seeds, the beginner need not feel he is a failure for doing so. There is plenty of time for getting into all aspects of the gardening experience. For now, the beginner should take things easy and just do something for the garden. Anything at all is good to start even if it is just grabbing a couple each of Roma Tomato, Jalepeno Pepper, Basil, Pumpkin, Zucchini or Cabbage plants. The trick is to start slow with only a few and see how it goes from there.

CompostingThe one thing all gardeners can count on is weeds but what

to do with them is what distinguishes a true green thumber from the others. Composting weeds, kitchen scrapes and other garden waste such as trimmings from hedges, lawn clippings and dead autumn leaves will not only give you a viable way to rid yourself of that seemingly useless stuff but it will also produce something more valuable than gold to a gardener bent on going organic. That stuff is rich, sweet-smelling compost which can be used to improve soil and provide nutrients to plants without having to buy anything. Yeah, this amazingly wonderful stuff is free. Imagine that!These are just a few suggestions for those plagued by what

could be called “brown thumbitis,” a vicious, albeit imaginary, affliction which anyone can overcome with enough determination, enough fiddling in the soil and more tenacity than your average Dandelion. If the plants grow, and there really isn’t any reason why they shouldn’t if you tend them and water them regularly, then all is fine. If, however, they die, then try again. Whatever you do don’t just give up. Rule # 1, green thumbers never quit.So, do your brown thumb a favor. Grab a bunch of seeds, a

few cuttings, a handful of transplants, plant them and make yourself a compost heap and soon enough, if you never give up, you too will be known in the neighborhood as having the Mythical Green Thumb. Best of all is you need not tell them there is no such thing. Let them figure it on their own or you can direct them to this article so they too can try to earn the magical green thumb. Whichever you prefer.

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by Lee McCall

World Withhydroponics

La Villette – An indoor plantation Paris, France

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"Suited for the crop’s most desirable

standards, the different varieties of

bananas and sugar cane plantlets

are cultivated through precise

tissue culture engineering to reveal

superior genetic value."

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Approximately 20 hours of continuous lay-over and inter-national travel time has passed since our initial departure in Denver, Colorado. As we finally touch down at Charles De Gaulle in Paris, France, the local time is 9:27 a.m. and the jet lag is imminent.

A few years have passed since my last visit to Europe, and I’m anxious to start exploring my new surroundings in this major metropolis. We enjoy international travel and the many historic, tourist attracting elements that any other average person might encounter en route across the globe; however, I do understand the significance of experiencing different culture and lifestyle beyond the day-tripper attraction.

Before my actual arrival into Paris I had mixed feelings about things that I had heard from experienced visitors, and what to expect. First and foremost, I do not speak French so the lan-guage barrier on my account was expected. My fiancé however, being fluent in three different languages, developed a strong ba-sis of knowledge by studying incessantly for months prior to the trip, so we weren’t exactly hopeless in the reality of the situation. Anyways, this is the real reason why you, the avid reader and gardening junkie are spending the time to take interest in this feature article that seems to have nothing to do with indoor gar-dening or bettering your yield. Fact of the matter is, unlike my

previous articles that focus on real-time gardening conditions, this piece is engineered to inform people that global hydropon-ics and gardening is a universal practice that can benefit society.La Villette is a sector of the Paris metro housing the city’s

greatest museum of science, technology and industry. My initial instinct says I’ve made a huge mistake as we leave the subway and are engulfed by swarms of everything ranging from two to 10 years old, screaming for random approval from their guard-ians as they stampede the children’s exhibits. Aside from that, the inside of the building is vast consisting of two levels with a variety of different displays focusing on themes of light, water, space and sound.

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Around the World With Hydroponics: La Villette

Although not highly publicized, the im-pressive indoor greenhouse on the second level is fully equipped featuring rows of indoor cultivated sugar cane and plots of banana trees. Quickly, I scramble through the crowds and make my way towards the exhibit. Multiple banks of both metal hali-de and high pressure sodium fixtures pro-vide the proper photosynthetic qualities needed for precise production. The heat signatures are minimized through keeping the actual lighting apparatuses outside of the tempered glass roof, but due to desired environmental conditions it is still roughly 85°F with 80 per cent humidity inside the mostly sealed grow room.State of the art ventilation and environ-

mental controllers including automated humidification devices help maintain the specific climatic qualities. Custom emit-ters disperse fine droplets of water into the atmosphere and amongst the vegeta-tion, yielding ideal humidity levels for optimum growth and production native

to the crops natural climate. Ventilation is controlled through the building’s central system that incorporates custom duct work to and from the area. It is capable of completely reversing the conditions of the room in minutes with its potential output and coverage.

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The feeding process was very intriguing as well; operating on a commercial au-tomated dosing system that nurtures the plants mechanically, even though cultiva-tion takes place in an organic medium. A 14 gallon per minute water-powered, non-electric injector accurately mixes the nutrients into water lines using volumet-ric proportioning. Regardless of varia-tions in the pressure and flow, the mix-ture rate remains consistent. When water enters the injector, it triggers a hydraulic motor which begins moving up and down inside the body of the injector. On the up stroke, the system draws fluid up from the concentrate tank in an action similar to a hypodermic syringe. On the down stroke the concentrate is displaced into a mixing chamber, where it is mixed with the water flowing through the unit. The water-and-chemical mixture is then discharged into the water lines.

Coconut coir mats laid throughout each garden “plot” protect the top of the sugar cane containers from light and other hazards that could penetrate the root zone. Beneficial microbe and fungal activity is evident in the banana tree media that appears to be a specific mix heavy in bark that holds adequate amounts of moisture. Suited for the crop’s most desirable standards, the different varieties of bananas and sugar cane plant-lets are cultivated through precise tissue culture engineering to reveal superior genetic value. There is a fully encased tissue culture system display in the room housing multiple jars of specimens that are thriving in different stages of growth occupying very little space. This method of advanced propagation provides incom-parable turnover rates, and the capability of superior mass production with genetic control and manipulation. Insecticides

Around the World With Hydroponics: La Villette

"Ventilation is controlled through the building’s central

system that incorporates custom duct work to and from the area."

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we have many friends in great cities like this who are willing to taxi us around upon arrival. A quick late-night tour that will result in greasy bar food and cold beverages courtesy of the famous Bull Dog Tavern, provides us the neces-sary fuel to arrive contently back home at such early hours. A cheeseburger cooked in a great neighborhood pub is an excellent, must needed change of pace from the previous week of various ter-rines, foie gras and wild greens, sausage (hot dogs) wrapped in French baguettes, poached eggs coated in parmesan cheese then fried, white-wine mustard sauces, escargot and red wine with far too many tannins for my taste.We are satisfied with the overall

experience obtained, yet relieved to arrive back to our U.S. normality. The feeling of arriving home afterwards makes traveling much more enjoyable. Paris is a great city with much to offer. The public transportation system is easy to navigate after the first couple days of wandering the city so it is in best interest to purchase a two day to one week pass that allows access to all subways and public busses. The Bastille was our favorite part of Paris; a very live square lined with restaurants tapas, dessert bars, small clubs and various boutiques.After traveling 3000 miles to get here, I

have yet again furthered my knowledge

base and hopefully yours for worldwide indoor cultivation. Aside from the hobby and studies of indoor gardening, researching it across the globe in relation with different cultures is truly fascinating to observe. The ability to see such a great art utilized across the planet shows the similarity and differences between how society operates, and gives us a greater understanding of different cultural practices and behavior.

are not required or applied for five years due to advanced techniques and methods achieved through genetic manipulation. I surprisingly didn’t see one bug or any sign of crop damage in the rainforest like conditions maintained within the exhibit.Considering all of the people that are

exposed to the area, the indoor grow room is one of the cleanest I’ve ever wit-nessed, providing commercial plantation and a successful display. As the subway carries us back towards our hotel I am satisfied with what I have seen. The ex-hibit available to the public is an example I hope to see more of as we plan our next destination for travel somewhere else.Leaving Paris and now en route back

home to Denver, but first a quick stop in New Orleans for a 10 p.m. to five a.m. over-night layover. This sounds tiresome, and normally is, but fortunately for us,

Captivating images that further demonstrate La

Villette's incredible indoor growing set-up are available at www.maximumyield.com

MY

Around the World With Hydroponics: La Villette

References:http://www.cite-sciences.fr/francais/ala_cite/expositions/banane-et-canne-a-sucre/partenaires.htmhttp://www.cite-sciences.fr/francais/ala_cite/expositions/banane-et-canne-a-sucre/credits.htmhttp://www.cite-sciences.fr/francais/ala_cite/expositions/banane-et-canne-a-sucre/index-flash.htm

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Come Clone with Us

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Come Clone with Us

The best way to make sure the genetic qualities of a mother plant are reproduced is to make clones. Cloning is usually done within a propagator to ensure a higher humidity. However, in a humid environment, fungus and bacteria grow easier and faster on the substrate. Because I’m already in a high humidity area and my mother plant is in a room with an 18 hour lamp, I don’t need extra equipment.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

by Kevin Dunlop

Necessary Equipment• quality nutrient solutions• rooting gel – it stops plants from wilting and has vitamin B1 in it

• pair of sterilized, sharp scissors• cup of water at room temperature• cutting board• single edged razor blade or scalpel• pick to widen hole for rooting gel (a toothpick works well)• bacteria killer• day-night (min/max) thermometer• EC meter• pH test meter• growing media (I am using organic starter cubes, but you can also use organic plugs made from compressed peat for great results. Starter cubes and compressed plugs are ideal for soil growing, as they’re biodegradable. If growing in coir, try compressed plugs or starter cubes).

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Other equipment to consider is a heated propagator, a propa-gation light and, if you’re doing many clones, you may want to consider a grow tent cloning station, which is an all in one cut-ting table and propagation/mother plant tent. A friend of mine has got one of these inside his main growing tent and it keeps everything neat, tidy and sterile.Choose a mother plant that has proved itself to you, something

that is sturdy and has vigorous growth.

Preparations1. Set up a table to work on.2. Adjust the room temperature to 72 to 77°F.3. Mix up your plant start nutrient to the strength recommended on the bottle. Your water temperature should be between 68 to 72°F. Adjust the pH to between 5.8 and 6.5. Your EC optimal range should be set to 0.7 to 1.0. (When your EC is too high, it will burn the clones causing disastrous results).

4. Soak the growing media cubes in the nutrient solution and place them on the table.

5. Make a good size hole to take the rooting gel. The hole should be enlarged so it is ready to take the gel.

6. Add the gel to the growing media making sure you have about a little fingernail amount in a hole so that it completely surrounds the stem. (Do not use a rooting hormone, as this will overload your clone).

7. Mark the date of cloning and the variety of plant on your tray.8. Sterilize the scissors, the cutting block and the razor blade or scalpel thoroughly.Suggestion: Cut more clones than you need to ensure a good variety to choose from; it’s always better to have too many than too few!

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Come Clone With Us

MaintenanceSpray clones every day half way through the light cycle, so

they are dry when the lights go out. If you live in a low humid-ity area you need to spray more often. Water the tray of cubes thoroughly every other day. Check day-night temperature; ideal rooting temperature is 68 to 77°F.Continue to do this until roots appear; this should take ap-

proximately 10 to 14 days. Once this is accomplished you are able to transplant the exact replicas of your mother plant into larger growing blocks or whichever system you are using and take them on to full maturity safe in the knowledge that your produce will be of good quality.

How to Clone1. Select a stem from your designated mother plant and cut it off at a 45° angle if at all possible. (figure 1 and figure 2)

2. Put the stem immediately into the cup of water.3. Trim individual clones from the stem leaving at least three leaves on each clone and cut the stem into equal lengths (ap-proximately four inches) using the cutting block. Make sure each cut is clean with no ragged bits; again try cutting the stem at a 45° angle if at all possible. (figure 3)

4. Now, place the clones in the gel filled holes in the organic starter cubes.

5. Fill your tray or cloning system with your selected clones.6. Spray your clones with water or a weak foliar feed that is rich in calcium.

7. When using a strong light (400 to 600 watts) to root clones, hang the light as high as possible (five feet above your trays). It’s preferable to use a softer light such as fluorescent tube lighting; if this is the case, place the light as close as possible to the clones. A cool white fluorescent lamp that is economical and gives off a low amount of heat will do the trick.

8. During the rooting phase, avoid direct air movement. (No direct ventilation on the clones).

Figure 1. Select a stem fromyour designated plant.

Figure 2.Cut the stem off at a 45° angle.

Figure 3.Make sure each cut is clean with no ragged bits.

Stay tuned to www.maximumyield.com for additional articles on cloning.

MY

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TIPS &tricks

What is pH? Part IIby Grodan

Early season vegetative growth pushes slab pH up.During the strong vegetative growth

phase of the crop, the plant will be influencing the pH of the slabs in an upward direction. Measuring and tracking the pH in the slab will help you take the proper steps to control this important, yet often overlooked, factorDuring the strong vegetative growth

phase of the crop, the plants will be taking in proportionately more negative ions

than positive ions. The influx of negative ions such as nitrate-nitrogen (N-NO

3-)

will result in the plant's roots giving off either the negatively charged bicarbonate ion (HCO

3-) or hydroxyl ion (OH-).

When this occurs, the pH of the root zone will increase. The influence of the plant on its own root zone environment is so strong that the grower may be inclined to continue to irrigate with progressively lower and lower pH feed solutions. However, there is a significant risk associated with this strategy.If the grower chooses to irrigate with

a low pH feed solution in an attempt to bring the pH of the root zone down, then the risk of root damage and crop damage, leading to poor quality fruit is significantly increased. Also, as the pH of the feed decreases, the solubility of certain micronutrients is decreased. Under these conditions, zinc, manganese and phosphate uptake by the plant is reduced. Thirdly, if the grower continues to reduce the pH of the feed (drip) solution in response to an increase in the pH of the slab solution, then more and more of the bicarbonate, the pH stabilizing factor in the feed water, will be destroyed. The result will be loss of pH stability in both the feed and slab solutions. Consequently, the pH of the slab solution may fluctuate widely on a daily basis.During the strong vegetative growth

phase of the crop, the plant will be influencing the pH of the labs in an upward direction. This is the reason why you experience pH going up in your

Monitoring pH in the slabMonitoring pH in the slab is an

essential part of weekly nutritional monitoring and should be undertaken on a daily basis. Sampling should take place in a number of representative slabs in order for a meaningful and accurate assessment to be made. Sampling is easy; simply push a syringe into the slab and extract a small quantity of nutrient solution (three ounces). Record the value and plot this on a graph this will make it easier to identify trends.

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stock tank. The change of pH has nothing to do with the medium when you are using an inert medium such as rockwool.

Ammonium (NH4+)

The ammonium ion (NH4+) is readily

absorbed by plant roots. This will cause the pH in the slab to decrease. The addition of this ion to the feed solution can be beneficial during periods of strong vegetative growth in order to keep the slab pH in balance.One question often asked by growers

is: "Does the plant live mainly on the irrigation (feed) water from the drippers, or does the plant live off the water in the slab?" Both solutions are important to the plant - but at different times of the year. How does this question tie into the issue of pH in January? Under January and February light conditions, the grower will be irrigating with long irrigation sessions (large volumes) fairly infrequently. As a result, the plant will not be experiencing the feed solution very often and, therefore, will be relying on the slab solution for sustenance. However, in the summer, when the irrigation volumes are smaller but applied much more frequently, the plant will be able to rely on the feed solution coming into the block for sustenance.The optimum pH for absorption of

nutrients by the plant is somewhere between 5.5 and 6.0. Therefore, the pH of the feed solution coming out of the drippers must be set so that the slab solution (the important solution in the winter) is adjusted to the optimum level. During strong vegetative growth, the pH of the feed (drip) solution may need to be as low as 5.3 to 5.5 in order to achieve the desired pH in the slab without destroying too much of the stabilizing bicarbonate ion.If the grower neglects to monitor the

slab pH and only looks at the feed (drip) pH, a high pH condition may develop in the slab. As the pH in the slab rises above 6.5, the uptake of phosphate, iron, manganese and boron becomes less

and less. Furthermore, there may also be a deposition of calcium phosphate (gypsum) within the slab.

This is usually the result of the plant being too vegetative. It has not been established if this will cost production but it may reduce fruit quality if it occurs at the wrong time of the year.

Effect of the slab pH of the health and productivity of the plant.

pH 5.5 to 6.0 on average

pH Below 4.5

pH on average 6.0 or higher

Optimum availability of nutrients for the plant

Root damage and as a result, crop damage leading to poor quality and yield. Often seen when the plant changes from a vegetative state to a generative state.

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by Bob Taylor : Chief Chemist of FlairformLighting Basics

Although artificial lighting produces an imperfect spectrum compared to the sun, it does allow control of variables such as

duration and intensity.

Equipment OverviewArtificial lighting requires the use of a ballast (used to ignite

then regulate current to the lamp), a shade or reflector (directs light towards the plants and usually incorporates the lamp holder/socket), a timer (controls when the lights turn on and off) and the lamp itself (figure 8.1).

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009100

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mLamp Selection (Optimizing Color Spectrum)Photosynthesis occurs mainly within the visible light

spectrum (wavelength range 400 to 700 nanometers). Within this range, 445 nanometers (blue) and 650 nanometers (red) are needed most. HID: High Intensity Discharge lamps (HID) are generally used for the vegetative and flowering/fruiting phases due to their high lumens per watt rating. (HIDs produce five times as many lumens per watt than incandescent lamps – figure 10.2). The following types of HID are commonly used:• Metal Halide (MH): Produces light predominantly blue in

color. This is ideal for strong vegetative growth (e.g. larger leaves, thicker stems) and a shorter, dense plant (i.e. shorter internodal spacing), which will utilize light more efficiently.

• High Pressure Sodium (HPS): Produces more red light. This promotes flower onset and production and is, therefore, more suited to the flowering/fruiting phase.

Unfortunately, MH and HPS lamps each require a different ballast and lamp holder. Therefore, it is common practice to use a HPS lamp for both vegetative and flowering – especially if plants have a very short vegetative phase. However, using HPS throughout can promote tall and spindly growth in many species. Blended light lamps: To save needing a separate lamp kit (lamp, ballast and lamp holder) for both vegetative (MH) and flowering (HPS), “blended light” lamps are available. These produce a more balanced spectrum of red and blue light. Fluorescent: Fluorescent lamps produce less lumens per watt compared to HID lamps, hence their use is limited to plants needing low to medium light intensities, such as seedlings, clones, herbs, orchids and lettuce. They are simpler to use than HID lamps because they generate less heat.These are broadly categorized as either ‘strip’ fluorescents

(SL) or ‘compact’ fluorescents (CFL) and are available in different wattages and color temperatures (figure 10.2). Those of high color temperature (known as “cool white”)

Figure 10.2: Lamp selection (from left to right) 'High pressure sodium' (HPS), 'metal halide' (MH), 'strip fluorescents' (SL), 'compact fluerescent' (CFL).

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Lighting Basics

are more blue in color and more suited to vegetative growth and development of seedlings/clones. Lower color temperatures (“warm white”), are redder in color and, therefore, better for flowering. CFLs are generally available in higher wattages than SLs and thus, are suitable for species needing higher light intensities.

Optimizing Light IntensityInsufficient light will produce sparse foliage, spindly branches

and poor flowering. This can occur because lamp size (and type) is inadequate; lighting duration is inadequate; foliage is too far away from the lamp; or foliage is being shaded by other plants.

Figure 10.4:The heat generated by HD lamps is the biggest problem facing indoors growers, especially in summer. An effective way of removing this heat by directly ducting heat away through air cooled shades. These simplify ventilation requirements by minimizing hot spots and enable lights to be positioned closer to foliage.

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Lamp size: A lamp’s size is measured in watts (W). The size of the growing area will partly determine the required wattage - see table 10.1 and figure 10.3.Plant height: A plant’s height must be considered when

determining lamp size because light intensity diminishes rapidly as distance from the lamp increases. (Table 10.1 shows the drop in intensity from one to three feet). For example, imagine your plants covered an area of three by three feet. You may be tempted to use a 400 watt lamp instead of a 600 watt HPS (i.e. power costs are 50 per cent less, and it generates less heat). However, if a significant proportion of the foliage is three feet from the lamp, the intensity is only 5,555 lumens per square foot. This intensity may be insufficient for the species being grown. By choosing a 600 watt HPS, the intensity would be roughly double (assuming equal gap between lamp and foliage).

HINT: It is also preferable to keep plants as short (and therefore

wide) as possible. This can be achieved by removing the ‘growing

tip’ and also restraining upwards growth (and training sideways

growth) by erecting netting at an appropriate height.

Plant density/shading: Shading becomes an issue when plants are positioned too close to one another. Hence, it is generally more productive to plant less than more.Lamp height: To best utilize lamp output, position the lamp

as close as possible to the top of plants without causing photo-respiration or burning of foliage (see table 10.1 for “minimum gap” guidelines). Air cooled shades should be used because they enable lamps to be positioned much closer to foliage - particularly beneficial for 1,000 watt lamps (figure 10.4).

Figure 10.3: From Table 10.1, we can estimate that 2 x 600W HPS lamps would be suitable for lighting an area 3.3 x 6.6ft (2.0m x 1.0m).

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m6.6ft (2.0m)

3.3ft (1.0m)

3.3ft (1.0m)

600W HPS 600W HPS

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Effective working life: A lamp’s intensity will diminish with use, and may also use more power. Note that MH lamps have a shorter effective working life than HPS. Also note that the capacitor in magnetic ballasts will deteriorate with use and consequently the light intensity will diminish. Ask the manufacturer for the useful working life of these items.Lamp orientation: Lamp directions will specify whether a

lamp can be orientated vertically, horizontally, etc. Failure to comply can cause poor lumen or color output, and shorten the lamp’s life span.

Safety: Consider safety at the design stage:• Keep power devices and junctions away and/or above any potential water spillages/ floods.

• Determine whether the electrical lines can handle the current draw.

• Where multiple lamps are being lit ensure to stagger start up times. HID lamps draw large amounts of electricity, therefore, safety must be a priority.

• As an overall safety measure, install a miniature circuit breaker (MCD) and residual current device (RCD). If there is a faulty circuit these will cut the power supply (figure 6.23).

Calculating electricity costs:

Cost of power per day = Cost of power per kilowatt* x Total

kilowatts** x daily duration.

e.g. If the cost of power is $0.10 per kW and there are two 600

watt lamps (1.2kW) alight for 12 hours per day, the daily cost of

electricity is $1.44 (i.e. $0.10 x 1.2kW x 12hrs)

*Refer to your last power bill. **1,000 watt = one kilowatt (kW)

Additional articles by Bob Taylor are available in our author archive at www.maximumyield.com.

Figure 6.23: A miniature circuit breaker (MCD) and residual current device (RCD) are indispensable when water and electricity are in close proximity.

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Figure 10.6: Light meters are essential for verifying that all foliage is receiving sufficient light.

Lighting Basics

Figure 10.5: Lamp shades help maximize lamp reflection. They are either painted white or plated with a highly reflected material.

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Lamp shades: These help maximize the amount of light directed towards the plants (figure 10.5). Shades need to be hung so that their height can be easily adjusted as plants grow. For safety, ensure mounts are securely fastened to the ceiling.Light cycles: Plants generally require 18 hours of light per

day during the seedling and vegetative phase. During flowering/fruiting however, the duration can be reduced to 12 hours. Growth can suffer if lighting intervals are irregular. Therefore, employ a timer to help ensure consistency. Note also, vital processes occur during the night (lights off) period, therefore, avoid interrupting it by turning lights on.Reflective material: The use of reflective material on walls

(etc.) helps ensure that light is not wasted through absorption.

Hints for Set-up and MaintenanceLight meter: Useful for determining whether light levels are

adequate throughout the garden, and for routinely checking if lights are operating to specification (figure 10.6).

Compatibility: Ensure the ballast and lamp suit one another. For example, lamps of different type (e.g. MH or HPS) or different sizes (wattages) may require a specific ballast. Also, if using an electronic ballast, ensure the lamp is compatible, otherwise premature lamp failure and blackening may occur.Handling HID lamps: Lamps can explode if they are cold

when lit or have fingerprints on glass. Always wrap in clean paper or towel before handling. To clean the lamp glass use window cleaner (or rubbing alcohol) and allow to dry thoroughly before use. Lamps should not be restarted immediately after being switched off (MH lamps should generally be left off for at least 20 minutes; HPS for at least three minutes).

MY

Page 106: My Usa August 09

by Roland Evans of Organic Bountea

NATurAL GrEENhousE GroWING suNLIGhT IN ThE GArDEN

suN AND soIL:

I love the sun, even in August. It brings brightness to the spirit and a glow to the garden. A major reason we moved to Colorado was the sunlight streaming from crystal blue skies. It provides a healing antidote to the years I lived under cloud cover in England and Ireland. Even now, I complain when the sun hides for more than a day or so.The sun is the giver of life; all living beings depend directly or indirectly

on its energy. It is also a blazing heavenly fire that can shrivel and burn. In England, I could not grow fully ripe tomatoes – the sun was too weak. My first Colorado harvest of juicy red fruit was truly exciting – but it only came after the shock of seeing the leaves of my transplant turn crispy brown one bright afternoon. The sun is indiscriminate in the energy it bestows; both too little and too much are equally problematic to our plants. As gardeners, we may not understand the complex physics of light, but we have to learn to work with the sun. Our task is to know what each plant needs and adjust the light and heat accordingly.

"the sun is the giver of life; all living beings depend directly or indirectly on its energy."

106 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

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PLANTs AND LIGhTPhotosynthesisPlants need light; their lives depend on photosynthesis. This

magical process - creation through light - uses sun energy to transform water and air into the plant’s blood and bones. Green plants use chlorophyll in leaves and stems to gather up photons, packets of light energy; this energy is used to break the chemical bonds in carbon dioxide and water. Out of these molecules, plant cells assemble carbohydrates - both flowing sugary sap and stringy structural cellulose. To put it in a simple equation:

This is a complex process that plants seem to achieve effortlessly. Yet plants are quite particular about the kind of light they consume. Leaves are green because plants prefer light wavelengths towards the ends of the spectrum in the red and blue spectrum. Chlorophyll rejects and reflects the middle spectrum light that we see as green or yellow.

Infrared raysThe far ends of the light spectrum

invisible to our eyes - infrared and ultraviolet - are equally important. Plants need these rays in moderation to grow and stay healthy. Long infrared waves stimulate heat energy in objects they touch.

carbon dioxide + Water + light energy + carbohydrate + oxygen + Water

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108 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

Sun and Soil: Natural Greenhouse Growing - Sunlight in the Garden

Every seed needs just the right amount of heat to germinate and grow. This is at a premium during winter months with the sun low in the sky. Plants are starved for heat energy and either die from frost damage or become dormant. The dog days of summer bring the opposite problem – too much heat. Leaves droop, as precious water is lost; and roots shrivel in the hot ground. Managing infrared energy is one of the most important tasks of the gardener looking for a bountiful harvest.

ultraviolet raysThe damaging effects of ultraviolet rays can be quite sudden.

We often do not notice sunburn until it turns our skin a bright red. A similar damage to leaves, called sunscald, can take a gardener by surprise. Here in the Rocky Mountains, ultraviolet light acts like a blowtorch on any plant that is too tender. A plant that is not used to UV rays quickly dehydrates as leaves cook and turn brown.On the other hand, ultraviolet rays are not all bad. Moderate

doses of UV activate and strengthen plants’ immune systems and help seedlings and young foliage grow appropriately. Just as we tan to protect our skin from excess UV, plants develop blocking pigmentation and greater leaf thickness. Once my own plants are adapted to the mountain sunlight, they grow lots of strong glossy leaves.

Day LengthPlants have evolved to respond differently not only to heat and

light but to the length of day and night. Many seasonal flowers bloom because the ratio of day to night has reached a certain proportion. Long-day plants such as peas bloom as nights grow shorter. Short-day plants, such as certain varieties of onion, ripen late in the season as nights begin to lengthen. Many greens and root vegetables prefer cool soil and the indirect light of early spring or fall. Every plant has its preference. A dedicated gardener seeks to discover exactly how much or how little light and heat that plant desires.

soil EnergyWe may be aware of the impact light and heat has on plants but

we tend to forget its importance for the soil. Just like plants, soil life is light and heat sensitive. Below 50°F, soil life is comparatively dormant except for certain fungi and hardy archaea. At these lower temperatures, nutrients such as calcium are relatively unavailable. As winter shifts to spring, infrared rays penetrate deeper into the ground, melting ice and waking up the microbial life.When soil warms and reaches 75°F, soil life becomes

extremely active and moves into high gear, cycling nutrients and reproducing at a very fast rate. Some bacteria can double in population every hour. Most seeds germinate at a temperature in which soil life is active; this is when organic food is most readily available.As soil temperatures continue to rise and water evaporates,

soil life desiccates and dies. Above 100°F plant roots and microbes effectively shut down. High levels of ultraviolet light sterilize the top layers of the soil, driving the worms deeper underground. Eventually, as humus gets depleted all that is left is desert. Soil needs constant protection, just as plants do. Optimum fertility requires that growers are mindful of the energy level of their soil.

"Moderate doses of uV rays activate and strengthen

plants’ immune systems and help seedlings and young

foliage grow appropriately."

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110 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

process of incorporating a wall made of bottles and concrete into one of the greenhouses to provide more energy storage. This winter that greenhouse will be full of greens, roots and salad growing without extra heat. The thermal mass in my greenhouses also regulates heat during the summer. With plenty of leafy mulch the soil and plant roots stay at a comfortable temperature.

shadeWhen it gets very hot, I throw a 40 per cent shade cloth

over the whole of the greenhouse, effectively reducing the temperature inside by 10°F. Shade is the easiest way to keep light and heat under control. Knitted shade cloth draped over a frame provides protection from extreme overheating. Floating row covers can also serve - but take care these do not touch or surround the plants as this will cause overheating.

ConvectionEvery greenhouse needs air flow. This is essential during

summer so that heat can be dissipated through convection. Hot air rises, so natural convection flows from the ground towards the peak of the greenhouse. I have high openings at each end and keep the doors open or occasionally roll up the sides to let air move naturally.Plants really appreciate it when you give them the right

environment. In early spring, seedlings need the extra light of my propagator to grow green and strong. In the summer, if the greenhouse has been closed too long, the vegetables love some added airflow and a refreshing spritz of cool water. They quickly perk up and thank me for giving them just what they need. Plants do their best to tell us what light and heat they need; it is our job to look, listen and learn.

Gain access to past Sun and Soil columns at www.maximumyield.com under article archive.

MY

Modulating Light and heatIf plants are made of light energy, then gardeners are also

cultivators of light. We work with the different energies of the seasons, capturing and storing heat when it is scarce and dissipating it when it is too prevalent. Light flows from the sun like water from a faucet. Sometimes we need to capture every drop – other times we have to divert the flow before it floods.

Greenhouse CoversI think of my greenhouses as a means to moderate light and

heat. The transparent covers trap photons to create a beneficial microclimate of light and energy. I use a particular polyethylene film (IRAD) that allows infrared wavelengths through but then reflects some back towards the plants and soil. There are many different kinds of greenhouse coverings, many of which have special light and heat properties. Most of them block UV wavelengths so there is far less danger of sunscald or sterilized soil.

Thermal MassIn the winter, the thermal mass of soil and water barrels in the

greenhouses gather energy during the day and release it slowly during the night as heat when it is most needed. I am in the

Sun and Soil: Natural Greenhouse Growing - Sunlight in the Garden

Page 112: My Usa August 09

composting 101: an overvieWGarbage dumps smell. So do landfills. This is probably

the case because these places are full of the rotting waste and detritus of thousands of people. If you’re looking for motivation to compost, you might try

taking a walk around one of these blights taking over the landscape. It might also help to know that when most families start composting, the volume of garbage that they produce is reduced by about 30 per cent.

by Jared Garrett

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If you’re just hoping to reduce your impact on the environment, composting is a great way to go. If you’re also looking for a cost-effective, relatively easy and ultimately educational way to get great fertilizer for your plants, composting is the answer.Whether you live in a condo with no yard, a town home

with less than 100 square feet of lawn space, a house with a nice sized backyard or anything in between, you can compost. In other words, no matter what your living situation, you can compost.When plants grow, they take in carbon dioxide from the

air, and nutrients and water from the earth. Then, when they die, they naturally decompose and return those elements and materials back to the earth. So the truth is that when we compost, we are simply taking part in a natural process that has been going on for millions of years. Thus, in order for us to be able to compost and take advantage of the multitudinous benefits of doing so, we just need to imitate nature.There are plenty of methods and approaches to composting,

but they can basically be summed up into two categories: closed container and piles.

Closed ContainerModern closed containers look essentially like barrels

propped on their sides on a stand. These barrels have an opening through which organic materials, such as vegetable and garden leavings, are placed into the container. With that opening sealed closed, the barrel is rotated on its axis, combining old materials with the newer materials. These containers also have air vents.

"closed composting containers work well because they obey the three principles of good composting: stirring, air and shade."

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Closed containers work well because they obey the three principles of good composting: stirring, air and shade. When you rotate the barrel, you stir the materials, thus eliminating noxious fumes that might build up under layers of inert plant material. Air is necessary because it helps the plant material break down. Shade keeps things from drying out, which is necessary because moisture also enables the process of decomposition.Barrel composters come in a variety

of sizes. The urban composter who specializes in indoor or container

Composting 101: An Overview

gardening can actually get a composter that they can put on their kitchen counter. Usually coming in an attractive shade of green, these small composters, if used correctly, will keep even the most sensitive of noses happy.You can also find container composters

that vary in size from four feet to six feet tall. Some of these composters are designed to create a wonderful organic tea that is full of nutrients. This type of composter works in much the same way as other container composters, but they have an exit tray for the fluids that are produced through the process of decomposition to seep out. Some of these composters can hold up to four gallons of nutrient-filled liquid.

PilesIf you’ve got some space in your yard,

making a compost pile can be the easiest and most straightforward way to get your compost going. To make a compost pile, you need to find a relatively shady area in your yard. If you can find a shady spot

Figure 1: A three tiered composting system.

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composter in your home, a large barrel in your backyard or a compost pile, you will be able to reap the myriad benefits of making your own compost. MY

You will find a wide assortment of composting articles on www.maximumyield.com

under article archive.

"Worms are your friends; they help

break down the organic material

into delicious dirt for your garden."

that also gets hit by your regular lawn watering, you will be in business.With your compost spot

chosen, all you need to do now is collect your grass and leaves, as well as your organic kitchen waste and then deposit all of this on your spot. You can even add egg shells and bread leavings to this pile. Wait two weeks before doing anything, making sure you are consistent with adding organic materials to the pile. Then keep it moist.After two weeks, use a pitchfork to

turn the pile over. Your objective here is two-fold: get air into the pile and move the top layers to the middle of the pile. You should, after these first two weeks, have some nicely decomposing organic material that is black and moist-looking. If you have kept your compost pile wet, you should also see quite a few healthy worms in your pile as you turn it over. Worms are your friends; they help break down the organic material into delicious dirt for your garden.Your compost pile doesn’t need to

cover much ground, and this can be helped if you put a containing frame around it. This can be done using one by six inch boards as retaining walls. Of course, if you really want to make a fancy composter, and you have plenty of space, you can use the increasingly

popular three-tiered system. This system utilizes three different sections, numbered one, two and three. Number one is where you place your fresh organic waste. If you keep it wet, in two to three weeks you can turn the material in number one over into number two. A few weeks later you can move the fully decomposed material into number three, where it waits for you to put it to use. See Figure 1 to get an idea for what this system looks like.You might be intrigued by the three-

tiered system, and this is fine. But all you really need to remember if you want to start composting is that anyone can do it. Whether you use a low-cost container

Page 116: My Usa August 09

by Luis Bartolo

Soil - Who Doesn't Love it?

who doesn’t love it? It’s the basic element of mother earth, the holy grail of every organic garden and even if you are not an organic cultivator you must admit, we need it every day.Soil, once defined by J.S. Joffe in 1949, is a natural body consisting

of layers (horizons) of mineral constituents of variable thicknesses. Each layer differs from the parent materials in their morphological, physical, chemical and mineralogical characteristics. So, what type of good, rich organic soil does one need?”To answer this question we should first understand how

a plant works. Let’s start with the parts of the plant: leaves, flowers, stems and roots. Leaves are the plant’s kitchens; food making goes on in the leaves, during the on-going process of photosynthesis (where the energy from sun or artificial lighting is transformed into energy the plant can use). The flowers are the plant’s reproductive organs, helping the

plant generate baby plants (or blossoms). The stems are the support structures of the plant. Stems hold up the plant, but also conduct food and water throughout.Last but not least, the roots are an integral part of the plant’s

body. Root holds the plant in the ground. As well, they provide a food storage area and nutrient absorption for the plant.Now let’s add a little bit of environment: plants are using sun

for energy during photosynthesis; they are using special cells filled with green pigment called chlorophyll to convert dioxide and water into a sugar called glucose; and they are using the glucose (a form of carbohydrate) for energy.So knowing what different types of plants need is to know

what type of rich organic soil you should use. So now you want to understand soil, correct? Well, I can’t offer you a university degree in soil science but I

can explain a few soil factors in basic terms.

Soil -

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Bulk density:The weight of a given volume of soil, which includes the pore spaces. It can be easily measured by gently pressing a small cylinder into the soil, removing the core and weighing after drying to remove the water contained in the pore space. An average value would be 1.3 g per cm3.

Water-holding capacity: The water-holding capacity of soil is a very important agronomic characteristic. Soils that hold generous amounts of water are less subject to leaching losses of nutrients or soil applied pesticides.

Absorbency: The ability of soil to absorb and hold water and other liquids. Some materials such a peat are quite water repellent and should be moistened before planting and allowed to dry out completely.

Friability: This has to do with the texture of the soil. It must be easy for the roots to move through the soil. One way to measure this is by sticking your finger into the soil. If this can be done easily, the roots can grow through the soil.

Air filled pore space:10 to 15 per cent of your soil mix should be air. These pore spaces are the ones through which water drains and air enters the root zone. Materials like perlite and shredded bark are chunky enough to create air space, letting the roots have oxygen, even when the soil is wet.That gives us an insight into the composition of soil. However,

to take some soil from the earth and put it in a pot indoors or in a greenhouse will not work as the contents are just a small part of the greater whole. Nutrient can be made available to plant roots in natural soil from many meters away for instance. Confined in a pot this is not possible. Therefore, soil mixtures or composts were developed to contain the same structure and to emulate the natural environment as closely as possible. If you've shopped around for soil mixes, you've probably noticed several ingredients that are listed in their contents. We summoned up the most common ingredients:

Sphagnum/Peat:Peat is organic soil that consists of rotted plants, organic minerals, water and air. It differs from muck (yes, muck is a technical term used by soil scientists) because in muck the organic material is decomposed beyond recognition. Sphagnum

"Each layer of soil differs from the parent materials in their morphological, physical, chemical and mineralogical characteristics."

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MY

To review of all Luis Bartolo's articles visit

www.maximumyield.com

Soil - Who Doesn`t Love It?

comes from bogs around the world nowadays and is often mined from environmentally renewable sources, and it's usually over 90 per cent organic. It is also extremely aerated. It's a bit lightweight, so usually bark or sand is added to avoid the "topple factor," the technical term for when your plant tips over. When it's wet, sphagnum absorbs water, but when it dries out, it can actually repel water, which is the kiss of death. Peat must always be mixed with wetting agents, and is usually mixed with some of the items listed below.

Composted Bark: Put bark in a big pile and allow it to rot for four months. When it reaches 150°F in the middle on the pile, it's done and you've got yourself some composted bark. Composted bark is actually much heavier than peat. If composted correctly, bark can resist disease. On the other hand, new bark and fine particles can cause problems. It helps to have properly sized chunks of bark, which will help to aid in porosity.

Coir:Coir is a waste product of the coconut processing industry. It is a shredded form of the outside of the coconut shell. It's often used as a substitute for peat in potting mixes for plants that need moist soil, because of its superior water holding ability. Coir is usually sold in a compressed brick form that expands with water. One drawback - it can be high in salts because of the processing methods used to make it. So it should be soaked in water and washed before being added to the mix. Knowing these things will ultimately make you a more

educated consumer when deciding what soil mix is right for you and more important your plants. After all, “knowledge is power.” Also remember your soil mixtures, with care, can be infinitely reused. By removing the top surface of used soil and removing the roots, fresh ingredients can be added to replenish the soil health and away you go again.Isn’t soil great! Till’ next time.

Vermiculite:Vermiculite is a silica rock, kind of like mica, that expands into little hollow kernels when heated quickly at a very high temperature. It's usually added to potting mixes because it's light, it absorbs several times its weight in water and it aids porosity.

Perlite:Perlite is a volcanic ore that, when heated, pops open like popcorn. Perlite doesn't absorb water (it holds it on its surface) so it hurts your mix's total water retention. What it does do, however, is make more air-filled pores, so you can be sure roots are getting enough oxygen.

118 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

"Materials like perlite and shredded bark are chunky enough to create air space, letting the roots have

oxygen, even when the soil is wet."

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119MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

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Metal Halide (MH), a common variety of HID lamps, produces light predominantly blue in color. This is ideal for strong vegetative growth and a shorter, more dense plant.

Contrary to popular belief, phosphorous is not the most important element needed in the bloom phase. This idea sprang from field crop research, which crossed over into nutrient formulations intended for modern, high producing indoor crops.

When cloning, it is a good idea to own a heated propagator, a propagation light and a grow tent, if you are doing many clones.

The weight of a given volume of soil, which includes the pore spaces, is known as the bulk density. It can be easily measured by gently pressing a small cylinder into the soil, removing the core and weighing after drying.

Saffron, traditionally grown outdoors in warm and dry climates like Spain, India and Iran, has many imitations and cheap substitutes on the culinary market. These usually consist of counterfeit strands or color substitutes of cheaper spices like turmeric.

Although the process of photosynthesis is achieved quite effortlessly, plants are quite particular about the kind of light they consume, preferring wavelengths towards the red and blue spectrum.

La Villette, a relatively unheard of indoor plantation in Paris, France features impressive state-of-the-art ventilation and environmental controllers including automated humidification devices, which help maintain specific climatic qualities.

Sphagnum, a common ingredient found in soil mixes, is a great absorber of water. However, when it dries out, it can actually repel water.

Moderate doses of ultraviolet rays can activate and strengthen plant’s immune systems and help seedlings and young foliage grow appropriately.

It took 15 years to develop a corresponding foliar spray designed specifically for use with the sound frequencies known as Sonic Bloom, a process that has shown to increase growth rates in plants with extraordinary results.

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120 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

YOU TELL US

MY: What makes your greenhouses so eco-friendly?

Jonathan: We have tried to incorporate as many conservational techniques into the greenhouse as possible. Our retractable houses have rain gutters that come standard so that the rainwater can be collected, stored and used to water your crop. I currently have 25,000 gallons of water storage on my 3000 square foot greenhouse. Experience has shown that the flexibility and control that our greenhouses operate with allows for more optimal growing conditions and, therefore, reduces the amount of water needed for irrigation. The retractable houses have the ability to operate huge amounts of square footage with low power consumption due to the effects of passive cooling created by the walls and roof, which retract, reducing electricity needed to power exhaust fans.

Though these greenhouses are set up to accommodate the use of supplemental lighting, the focus is on reducing the amount of power that is needed to pull you through to harvest. The whole idea is to try and achieve the control of an indoor growing environment but using the free energy of the sun instead of high consuming grow lights. Lumen meters are included on all the greenhouses so as to maintain ultimate light levels for those wanting to supplement lighting during low light situations, passing clouds or a rainy day. You also have the ability to extend your growing day by adding a few hours of light on either end of the day, minimizing the amount of artificial light needed to achieve desired light schedules. When extending light hours, the blackout curtains allow the light to be contained within the greenhouse.

MY: What was your motivation behind the creation of Forever Flowering Greenhouses (FFG)?

Jonathan: After coming out of Al Gore’s “An Inconvenient Truth” I asked myself what my part was in pollution and what I could do to be part of the solution. The agricultural community that surrounded me was based on organic living – we ate organic food, drove with alternative fuels, wore sustainable, nature based clothing and overall tried to incorporate conscious consumerism into our lives. I saw one major place that the loop was not being completed. Everyone had tens of thousands of watts worth of HID lights providing sunlight for their indoor gardens. I asked myself, “How can these people continue to harvest more than the one crop a year, while breaking their addiction to HID lighting? And so Forever Flowering Greenhouses (FFG) was born, giving people the ability to use the free power of the sun while continuously harvesting their indoor crops. Minimum effort. Maximum results. I wanted to create a system that allowed farmers to do more with their lives and still have superior results with their growing endeavors while lessening their environmental footprint.

Maximum Yield talks with Jonathan Valdman, manager/owner of Forever Flowering Greenhouses, LLC about the documentary that changed his world and what makes their greenhouses so eco-friendly.

Jonathan Valdman, Owner of Forever Flowering Greenhouses

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121MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

Visit www.maximumyield.com to access all

of our You Tell Us columns featuring industry

leaders from around the globe.

MY

MY: What were some of the struggles in the beginning in order to create an ideal growing environment?

Jonathan: The primary struggle was with the understanding of what would trigger photoperiod (flowering) for a plant. The agricultural industry standard of a blackout system allows there to be enough light to read a newspaper under. Some plants are more sensitive than others when it comes to blacking out so I basically had to create a new standard of this technology. There is a large difference between what a plant ‘sees’ and what can be seen with the human eye. As long as the plant is getting zero lumens of light you can rest at ease as far as light deprivation goes. Each farm is different and there will always be fine tuning within what ever system you use. I played around with different fabrics that breathe so as to allow hot air and humidity to escape via the blackout roof. This allows the temperature/humidity to remain low when the blackout curtains are closed. Layering these fabrics still allows for this heat/humidity exchange to occur and yet provides an optimal light deprivation environment.

MY: Describe to me fully automated seasonal enhancers.

Jonathan: Our systems afford the farmer the ability to enhance the desired season anytime of the year. Need less light? Need more light? Shade systems can be implemented as well as heat. Whatever you want to achieve you can do so simply by setting your controller system appropriately. The greenhouse takes on a life of it’s own at that point and you can go on with yours.

MY: What is the difference between a greenhouse set-up for a commercial grower versus a hobbyist grower?

Jonathan: Our hobbyist line comes in two sizes. The ‘mini’ is 10 by 10 and the ‘maha’ is 20 by 20. They have rigid greenhouse poly carbonate, exhaust fans and intake louvers. The biggest difference is in the walls and the roof as they are stationary. The retractable series has rollup sidewalls and a retractable roof. These allow for passive cooling and creating an optimal growing condition for the plants using the least amount of power. We have sold greenhouses to people on solar and they have had very successful experiences. The hobbyist line takes more power than a retractable unit due to its exhaust fans but still can be plugged into a 20 to 30 amp 110 volt wall socket. All of our greenhouses come with an automated blackout system, light/fan rails that hang under the blackout for supplemental lighting and air circulation, and all of superior quality.

MY: What exactly is light-dep?

Jonathan: Light-dep or deprivation is also known as ‘blacking out’ and inducing photoperiod. To ‘light-dep’ a plant is to shorten the duration of its light cycle, so as to encourage the plant to flower in a time of year that wouldn’t naturally trigger flowering. For instance, by reducing the summer sun to only 12 hours of light, it would trigger the plant to recognize that the end of it’s life cycle is coming and therefore begin the flowering/seed production phase of it’s life. The same idea is used with indoor agriculture but artificial light is turned on and off as opposed to the sun being blocked out. Obviously this method of farming is only beneficial for plants whose flowering cycle is determined by the amount of hours of light it gets and the number of hours it gets to rest and process its food. This technique affords the farmer several benefits: In environments that have a short growing season due to early/late frosts, light deprivation encourages an outdoor crop to start flowering earlier than ‘full season’ plants, allowing for an earlier harvest, and eliminating the detrimental effects of cold and frost to the crop.

These days growing has a lot to do not only with quality and variety but the time of the season in which you can market your products. Nothing like having a bumper crop of tomatoes at the same time every other farmer just harvested their tomatoes. Instead, by using the control that light deprivation offers to the farmer you can have a high quality crop available when everyone else is looking at their flower sites just starting to develop and/or your second crop harvested when all the long season growers are just starting to get prepared for the harvest season.

The idea is that although your lighting is now free from the sun you are still trying to create the ideal indoor growing environment. This affords the grower the best of both worlds - the efficiency and quantity of outdoor growing and the control, consistency and quality of indoor growing. Irregardless of the size or level of automation, in today’s market with everybody and their grandmother learning of the self sustaining and viable techniques of farming, it is most important for the educated and experienced farmer to look into the future of timing, control, quality and the ability to expand both their crop and their market. I feel that light deprivation, and the automation which creates a more abundant, less labor intensive growing situation is the wave of the future. Steer towards the light but come check out what’s happening on the dark side. Minimum effort. Maximum results.

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Page 123: My Usa August 09

For more information or to book your booth visit indoorgardenexpo.com or call 1.250.729.2677

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124 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

PRODUCTspotlight ask for these exciting new products at your favorite indoor gardening store.

Continued from page 38

CubeCap™ Canada’s DripCap™

Two units will cover a four by eight foot tray with more lumens than a 1000 watt HID light.This unit will give up to

100 per cent more lumens at six inches and one foot away from the plants.Several new improvements found on these fixtures will increase the

lumen output even more, driving the lamps 28.6 per cent harder.We found that other T-5 units produced nice fruit, but were half the size.

The color and light quality with the Bad Boy™ is much closer to regular daylight resulting in tighter internodal spacing, thicker stem-wall, heartier foliage and more production. It enhances the characteristics of each specific plant.Super high output, hyper-driven lamps and fixtures define optimum production from start to finish.These units are easy to carry and deliver, and take only minutes to assemble. The Quantum T-5 Bad Boy™ - where size,

output, performance and production meet. Eliminate the heat with the Bad Boy™.For more information please visit an indoor gardening retailer near you.

The Quantum T-5 Bad Boy™ from Nickel City Wholesale

Not yet for commercial sale but already admired internationally is a new invention from CubeCap™ Canada. The new DripCap™ is designed to replace traditional drip-pegs, combining irrigation with the advantages of the

CubeCap™, which is mainly applied in ebb and flood systems.DripCap™ is

manufactured for ease of application and removal; it wraps around the plant securely and can be locked into place at any stage of plant growth. The patented design allows water droplets to completely saturate the media without having to relocate the device, as is common with standard drip-pegs. Further benefits from the use of DripCap™ relate to the reflection of light, which helps creates a desirable micro-climate for new roots to form. The slower evaporation rate also allows for savings in the amount of water and nutrients required by the plants for optimum growth. DripCap™ almost completely eliminates persistent algae and fungus gnat problems present in grow facilities.The new DripCap™ will be unveiled at all major

exhibitions, starting September 2009. Ask your local hydroponics retailer to carry the new DripCap™.

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125MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

Nickel City Wholesale Garden Supply is proud to announce the release of Just Right Xtra All Organic Potting Mix. Just Right mix is a rich blend of OMRI listed organic materials, microbes and fungi.Just Right Xtra Potting Mix

contains:

• GH Cocotek Coconut Coir, which creates a more diverse and less compact growing medium.

• GH Ancient Forest Humus - the ultimate natural compost.

• Large non-toxic, sterile and odorless perlite.• Premium red earthworm castings.• Miadenwell Diatomite Silica Stone, which increases plants resistance to disease.

• GH Rare Earth, derived from ancient seabed deposits of prophylactic clay.

• GH SubCulture M, a mycorrhizae root inoculant that contains a wide diversity of endo and ecto mycorrhizal fungi.

• GH SubCulture B, which helps increase the vitality and yield in all plants.

• Natural sulfate of potash.• Bone Char containing more than 16 per cent available phosphate and 32 per cent total phosphate.

We know you will enjoy your “Bag of Biology™” and all the complex microscopic pores which provide the perfect “condominium” living environment for its countless microbial communities. Visit your local retailer for more information.

Just Right Xtra All Organic Potting Mix

Give plant-killing insect pests the sweet treat they deserve with SucraShield! This OMRI-Listed insecticide uses a base of natural sugar esters to destroy problem bugs like mites, aphids, caterpillars, thrips, leafhoppers, whiteflies and more, eliminating their eggs as well. Within minutes of applying SucraShield, you’ll begin seeing results from this uniquely-acting pest control agent. Best of all, it’s safe for bees and other beneficial insects! Now available at indoor gardening retailers everywhere.

SucraShield Ends InsectPest Problems the Sweet Way

Megawatt Introduces Green Gold HO T5s

Green Gold HO

T5s are 6400 kelvin HO lamps

that are lightweight and easy to install.

They are UL listed, high output ballasts.

Green Gold HO T5s are ideal for the gardening enthusiast

providing 6400 kelvins of full spectrum lighting. Green Gold

HO T5s contain the perfect lighting spectrum to start your seedlings; initiate

faster rooting time on cuttings; assist in supplying long-term lighting for plants; and add valuable supplementary lighting in flowering plants. The fixture and bulb are now available in four foot lengths. The heavy duty cord allows you to interconnect eight T5s in a parallel circuit. The T5 has been fit with a bulb cover that allows you to get even closer to the plant without burning it and it is easily removable. 54 watts equals 5,000 lumens. Green Gold HO T5s are now available at indoor gardening retail stores.

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126 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

PRODUCTspotlight ask for these exciting new products at your favorite indoor gardening store.

Roots Organics Big Worm is a distinctive natural soil amendment. Our worms are carefully tended and fed an unparalleled blend of organic compost, rock dust and kelp for exceptional quality castings. In addition to containing nitrogen, our castings also contain small amounts of phosphorus and potassium with naturally occurring micronutrients, minerals and beneficial bacteria. Worm castings contain auxins and cytokinins, which are growth hormones that promote bigger and more fibrous plant roots. No fillers, no chemicals and no tricks - just pure worm castings. (one cubic foot size). See what the best worm castings in the world can do for your garden. Big Worm is now available at your local indoor gardening retail store.

Roots Organics Big Worm

3D Organic Solutions, LLC is now offering three new products formulated for outstanding indoor or hydroponic results! These products are organic based and can be used outdoors as well.OG Grow 4-0-1 is a one part indoor/

hydroponic grow formula that contains nitrogen, potassium, calcium, magnesium, manganese, zinc, copper, iron, boron, humic and fulvic acids, yucca, quillaja, sugars and more.OG Bloom .5-4-3 part A is the first in a two

part indoor/hydroponic bloom formula that contains nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, manganese, zinc, copper, iron, boron, humic and fulvic acids, yucca, quillaja, sugars and more.OG Bloom 2-0-1 part B is the second in a

two part indoor/hydroponic bloom formula that contains nitrogen, potassium, calcium, silicates, b-vitamins and more.Use 3D Indoor Products with 3D Powder

Products for greater performance!For more information on these products,

visit an indoor gardening retail store near you.

New Indoor Products from 3D Organics Hit the Market

Verde is a powerful and effective growth additive formulated to bring out the best characteristics in all your favorite plants. This 16-1-2 formula contains nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, manganese, iron and other trace elements, which ensure that rapid growth equals quality growth. Competing 16-0-0 products jumpstart growth without providing the nutrition essential for building strong stalks and healthy leaves. The vibrant greens and lush vegetation produced with this growth catalyst will astound any gardener and protect your crop from low yields and inferior fruits and flowers. Try Verde today and see what Humboldt Nutrients can do for your garden.Verde is now available at your local hydroponics retail store.

Humboldt Nutrients Verde

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127MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

T5 Designer Light System

Green Gold CFLs are effective, energy-saving, reliable, low heat generating horticultural grow lamps, providing excellent results and lower operating costs for all indoor growers. There is no wasted light, unlike HID and HPS lamps where much of the light cannot be used by the plant.Green Gold CFLs have high PAR (Photosynthetically

Active Radiation) light output and are used successfully for all propagation, vegetative and flowering stages.Green Gold CFLs can be positioned

directly above plants, (approximately one to 1.5 inches), and will not burn your plants.There is no wasted light, which occurs

when HID lamps are positioned high above plants.

• rated for 6,000 hours of life• 11,000 lumen capability with 200 watts• fits standard mogul base sockets• ideal for use with 24 inch gull wing

fixtures• 6,400 kelvin for propagation and

vegetative growing

Green Gold CFLs are now available at indoor gardening stores everywhere.

Megawatt Introduces Green Gold CFLs

Earth Juice® Verde Fire™ Grow and Bloom are natural solution grade dry-powder formulas that when mixed with water makes an excellent fertilizer for a variety of indoor and outdoor plants. They may also be used in dry form as a broadcast fertilizer or mixed directly into the media. For use with planting mixes, coco-coir

Earth Juice® Verde Fire™ Grow and Bloom

Hydrofarm's new Designer T5 System delivers performance, flexibility and high lumen output in any growing environment. These daisy-chainable systems allow you to choose multiple hanging configurations to meet your garden's design. They combine German specular aluminium with energy-efficient/high-output T5 bulbs and put out double the light energy of normal fluorescent systems.

• available in two and four foot units (two foot: two, four or eight bulbs), (four foot: four, six or eight bulbs)

• German made specular aluminium• may be daisy-chained together

• powder coated, textured steel housing

• five year warranty• low profile• hangs three ways - overhead, vertical or horizontal

• 10 grounded power cord• includes appropriate number of fluorescent 6400K, T5 tubes

The T5 Designer Light System is now available at an authorized retailer near you.

and native soils. Verde Fire Grow is recommended for leafy plants and the vegetative stage of flowering and fruiting plants. Use Verde Fire Bloom to aid in the development of flowers, vegetables and fruit. Apply at the first sign of budding and through flowering and fruiting. Works with indoor/outdoor plants, hand-feeding, drip systems and sprayers. Growers are encouraged to visit their local hydroponics retailer to learn more.

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PRODUCTspotlight ask for these exciting new products at your favorite indoor gardening store.

XXXTreme Uptake is the premiere humic acid on the market. It is designed to be used as a soil conditioner in conjunction with your regular feeding program.For optimum results, use each time you water or fertilize at the recommended application rates.

• a must for dirt growers• speeds up plant growth• extremely concentrated with 14 per cent humic acid

XXXTreme is available in one quart, one gallon, 2.2 gallons and five gallons.For more information on XXXTreme Uptake visit an indoor gardening retailer near you.

XXXTreme Uptake Now Available from Green Planet Wholesale

Triple 888 Uptake is the highest quality fulvic acid on the market and is compatible with any nutrient. Adding Triple 888 Uptake to any foliar spray or nutrient mixture will improve the speed and penetration into the plant.

• seven per cent fulvic acid• highest concentration of fulvic acid on the market compared to competitors• increases nutrient uptake• helps increase speed of growth and essential oil production

Triple 888 Uptake is available in one quart, one gallon, 2.2 gallons and five gallons.For more information on Triple 888 visit your local indoor gardening retailer.

Introducing Triple 888 Uptake from Green Planet Wholesale

Ocean Magic is an organic extract from Atlantic sea kelp, harvested from the unpolluted waters of the northern Atlantic Ocean.Ocean Magic is cold processed to retain all of the vital

minerals and nutrients. Ocean Magic contains a wealth of 100 per cent organic nutrients, amino acids, bio stimulants and enzymes. Ocean Magic can be used as a foliar spray, soil drench and is suitable for hydroponic systems.Available in 8.5 ounces, 17 ounces, one quart and one

gallon jugs.For more information on Ocean Magic visit your local

hydroponics store.

Introducing Ocean Magic from Green Planet Wholesale

DNF Veg Fortifier 12-40-12 is designed specifically to stimulate plant growth. It contains water soluble organic compounds, which ensure robust and vigorous root growth. When used in combination with other DNF products during the grow stage after a successful transplant, DNF Veg Fortifier will create lush green foliage, bigger brighter leaves and increase branches and flower sites. Having the maximum yield starts with properly vegging plants to produce, set and hold massive flowers. DNF Veg fortifier is everything your plant needs to meet its maximum potential. For more information on DNF Veg Fortifier visit your local indoor gardening store.

DNF Veg Fortifier

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129MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

Do you want to be included in the product spotlight? Contact the editor at 1-250-279-2677 or

email [email protected]

You can find all of our products online at www.maximumyield.com. Each month your favorite new product profiles will be featured

on our website. Get the latest information on what will make your garden grow.

MY

Typhoon Fans are high performance duct fans, equal to the best inline duct blowers on the market today. They come in sizes from four to 12 inches. The highest power motors combined with an aerodynamically designed shape make Typhoon Inline Fans the leader in their category. These high performance inline blowers feature superior steel construction with powder coated white paint. They have a convenient tape flange that allows you to place the ducting on the blower and tape it in place easily! Balanced motors with permanently lubricated ball bearings ensure vibration-free operation. Typhoon Inline Fans offer high quality at a low price. The fans are engineered for long life, made with the highest quality components and include an attached power cord. Engineered for vibration-free operation (the sound of silence). Mounting bracket included. The bottom line: Typhoon Inline Fans are all about performance, reliability and quality, all wrapped up in one package to ensure peace of mind for years. For more information on the Typhoon Inline Fan, visit your local indoor gardening retailer.

Megawatt Introduces the Typhoon Inline Fan

This rare and highly prized molasses is a natural source of carbohydrates (sugars) and plant nutrients that has been specially tailored into a liquid formulation for indoor and outdoor plants in soil and hydroponics. It can be used in conjunction with a variety of fertilizers and highly recommended for the brewing of plant teas. Growers are encouraged to visit their local indoor gardening store to learn more.

Earth Juice® Hi-Brix™ “Molasses for Plants”

Hozelock’s popular KillaSpray pressure sprayers make foliar applications (and anything else that requires spraying) simple! Available in 1.8 and 2.6 gallon sizes, both offer gardeners a well-made, see-through plastic reservoir with a wide opening for ease in refilling, a comfortable handle for time-intensive jobs and an adjustable nozzle attached to a long spray lance that conveniently clips to the side of the unit.Look for the Hozelock

KillaSpray at your local indoor gardening store.

Hozelock KillaSpray

Page 130: My Usa August 09

AVANT-GARDENING

PollinationThe Basics for Indoor Vegetable Gardenersby Clair Schwan

Pollination of vegetable plants can be a problem for indoor gardeners because, well, your plants are indoors and not outside where natural pollination can take place. It’s a common concern for beginners with a greenhouse. Let’s take a general look at what pollination is and how we might handle such a task with our indoor gardens.

What is Pollination?Pollination is part of the reproductive cycle of plants. It involves transferring pollen from male parts of flowers to female parts of flowers to fertilize the plant. Fertilization is essential so the plant can produce seed.Some plants are self-fertile so they don’t need pollen from

another plant. Their blossoms can fertilize themselves (within the same flower or from a flower on the same plant). Other plants require cross-pollination where pollen from another similar plant is used to fertilize the flower.Vegetables like carrots, beets and broccoli are productive in

the absence of pollination, because their seed is produced after it provides its food source to us. Vegetables that bear fruit, like tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and squash, require pollination for the fruit to set, so it’s essential that pollination take place.

How are Plants Pollinated?There are four basic ways that pollination takes place: animal

contact, wind, self-pollination and human assisted pollination. Here are some examples of each type of pollinator at work.The overwhelming majority of plant pollination is performed

by animals as they go about searching for food. Animal

pollinators include birds, flies, moths, butterflies, and most

importantly, bees. The best pollinators out there are the humble and hard working bumble

bee and honey bee. While these animals search for sweet nectar, they help pollinate your vegetable garden. In our greenhouses, bumble bees can become completely covered in pollen while visiting squash blossoms.Wind is another good pollinator. Corn is probably the best

example to illustrate how wind pollination works. Pollen is blown by the wind from the tassels on top of the corn plant to the corn silk that hangs out of the end of each ear of corn. That’s why corn is best planted in multiple adjacent rows instead of single rows.Many types of plants are self-pollinating. Some plants pollinate

themselves by having the male portion of the blossom grow into contact with the female portion. This can happen even when the blossom is closed.When growing plants indoors, the chance of pollination

by animals and wind is reduced, so that’s where we humans have to get involved to make certain our plants are pollinated. Sometimes it requires a small paint brush, and sometimes we just need to shake the plant a bit or create air circulation to promote pollination.

Pollinating Indoor Vegetables There are several methods for making certain your indoor vegetables are well pollinated.The easiest approach to indoor pollination is to provide an

opening for insects to enter. Bees will naturally find their way

130 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

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MY

into your greenhouse or other indoor growing area if you give them an opportunity. An open vent or an open door is all they’ll need if they’re plentiful outdoors.Tomatoes are mostly self-fertile, yet some have blossoms

that don’t open, so they can’t be pollinated by bees or other insects, and indoors the wind can’t get to them. To ensure adequate pollination, just shake the plant lightly every few days after blossoms appear. This will help dislodge pollen inside the blossoms for fertilization that will help set fruit.Squash plants have both male and female flowers. The male

flowers are the first to appear and each lasts only a couple of days. A week or so later you’ll see the female blossoms appear. They have a tiny fruit on the bottom of the blossom. As soon as the blossom opens, use a small water color paint brush and act as the pollinator in the absence of bees. Gently swirl it inside of a male flower to pick up pollen, and then brush it lightly inside the center of the female blossoms.

An Alternative to PollinationWouldn’t it be great if you didn’t have to be concerned about

pollinating your indoor vegetables? Well, you don’t have to if you grow cucumbers especially bred for use in a greenhouse. They’re known as European greenhouse varieties. They produce nearly all female blossoms, require no pollination, and produce an abundance of seedless cucumbers.So, there you have it, the basics of pollination for fruit set

and seed development. Even indoors nature can accomplish this task, but sometimes it needs a little help. To be on the safe side, I always help along my vegetable plants until I see that an abundance of bees have found their way into the greenhouse to pollinate the plants.

About the Author: Clair Schwan is an experienced vegetable gardener and builder of homemade greenhouses. He lives with his sweetheart Ellen and grows over 100 varieties of vegetables in three homemade greenhouses. With a little help from the sun, row covers and solar collection systems, he enjoys a year-round harvest of fresh vegetables grown with organic methods. For detailed discussion and pictures of his greenhouses and self-sufficiency exploits, visit www.frugal-living-freedom.com. See his advice and counsel on a range of vegetable gardening and greenhouse gardening topics at http://www.vegetable-gardening-and-greenhouses.com

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132 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

MAX-MART

Page 133: My Usa August 09

133MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

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134 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

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Get your Max-Mart ad into the next issue!Call Maximum Yield at (250) 729-2677 for more information.

MAXIMIZE YOUR EXPOSURE WITH

MAX-MART

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135MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

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136 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

ALABAMAAlabama Organics3348 Bethel Road,Valley Head, AL 35989256-635-0802

ALASKABrown’s Electrical Supply365 Industrial Way,Anchorage, AK 99501907-272-2259Far North Garden Supply300 Centaur Street,Wasilla, AK 99654907-376-7586Far North Garden Supply2834 Boniface ParkwayAnchorage, AK 99504907-333-3141Holmtown Nursery Inc.1301 - 30th Avenue,Fairbanks, AK 99701907-451-8733

ARIZONAACI Hydroponics1325 South Park Lane,Tempe, AZ 85282800-633-2137Homegrown Hydroponics601 East Broadway Road,Tempe, AZ 85282480-377-9096Homegrown Hydroponics1702 East Prince Road,Tucson, AZ 85719520-323-1212Natural Pools & Gardens2143 North Country Suite C,Tucson, AZ 85716520-323-2627Sea of Green Hydroponics815 W. University Drive, Suite 110,Tempe, AZ 85281800-266-4136Sea of Green West2340 W. Bell Road, Suite 116,Phoenix, AZ 85023602-504-8842Sea of Green Hydroponics402 North 4th Avenue,Tucson, AZ 85705520-622-6344

ARKANSASFermentables3915 Crutcher Street,N. Little Rock, AR 72118501-758-6261Mickey’s Mercantile1303 Highway 65 South,Clinton, AR 72031501-412-0214Old Soul Organics and More1771 Crossover Road,Fayetteville, AR 72701479-444-6955

CALIFORNIA101 Hydroponics2550 Vineyard Avenue, #200Oxnard, CA 93030805-988-6537A+ Plant Technologies1604 Babcock Street, Costa Mesa, CA 95521949-642-7776

A Fertile World (Eureka)65 th Street, Eureka, CA 95501707-444-0200A Fertile World (Fortuna)610 7th StreetFortuna, CA 95540707-725-0700Advanced Garden Supply2660 Lake Tahoe Boulevard,Building C, Unit 9,S. Lake Tahoe, CA 96150530-541-4769Advanced Garden Supply3113 Alhambra Drive, Unit F,Cameron Park, CA 95682,530-676-2100Advanced Hydroponics17808 Sierra Highway,Canyon Country, CA 91351661-299-1603Advanced Indoor Agriculture74991 Joni Drive, Suite 9,Palm Desert, CA 92260AG Natural111 East 12th Street,Marysville, CA 95901Alameda County Hydroponics20910 Redwood Road, Suite C,Castro Valley, CA 94546All Seasons Hydroponics17614 Chatsworth Street,Granada Hills, CA 91344818-368-4388Alternative Hydro3870 East, Colorado Boulevard,Pasadena, CA 91107888-50-HYDROAlways Sunny Hydroponics708 W. Swain RoadStockton, CA 95207209-473-9827American Garden Supply286 South G Street,Arcata, CA 95521800-458-6543Anthony’s Garden & Lighting Supply30 Ridge Road, Suites 8 & 9Sutter Creek, CA 95685209-267-5416Anything Grows10607 W. River Street, Building 3 Suite C,Truckee, CA 96161530-582-0479Atwater Hydroponics3350 Glendale Boulevard,Los Angeles, CA 90039323-663-8881Auburn Organic4035 Grass Valley Highway,Auburn, CA 95602530-823-8900B & S Gardening Supplies590 Commerce Court,Manteca, CA 95336209-239-8648Bakersfield Hydroponics2408 Brundage Lane, Suite BBakersfield, CA 93304661-323-7333Bare Roots Hydroponics1615 East Cypress, #5Redding, CA 96002530-244-2215

Beginning HydroponicsPO Box 1232,Corona, CA 92787951-735-4446Best Coast Growers4417 Glacier Avenue Suite C,San Diego, CA 92120800-827-1876Best Yield Garden Supply3503 Temple Avenue #A,Pomona, CA 91768909-839-0505Berkeley Indoor Garden844 University AvenueBerkeley, CA 94710510-549-2918Berkeley’s Secret Garden921 University Avenue,Berkeley, CA 94710510-486-0117Better Grow Hydro Pasadena1271 E. Colorado Boulevard,Pasedena, CA 91106626 737 6612Better Grow Hydro Los Angeles5554 Bandini Boulevard,Bell, CA 91106323-510-2700; 877 640 GROWBWGS West2247 North Plaza DriveVisalia, CA 93291888-316-1306California Hydroponics310 Coral Street, Suite CSanta Cruz, CA 95060831-423-4769Caliponics Inc.2030 Viborg Road, Unit 110Solvang, CA 93463877-PONICS9Central Coast Hydrogarden1951 Santa Barbara Street,San Luis Obispo, CA 93401805-544-GROWCitrus Heights Hydrogarden8043 Greenback LaneCitrus Heights, CA 95610916-728-4769City Farmer’s Nursery4832 Home Avenue,San Diego, CA 92105619-284-6358Clover Hydroponics & Garden Supply2626 South Main Street,Lakeport, CA 95453707-263-4000CNG Garden Supplies22 Ricknbacker Circle,Livermore, CA 94551209-836-5550Coca’s Central Valley Hydroponics116 West Orangeburg Avenue,Modesto, CA 95350209-567-0590Concord Indoor Garden2771 Clayton Road,Concord, CA 94519925-671-2520Conejo Hydroponics3481 Old Conejo Road #106Newbury Park, CA 91320805-480-9596

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Conrad Hydroponics Inc.14915 Unit E, Olympic Drive,Clearlake, CA 95422707-994 3264Constantly Growing6200 Enterprise Drive, Suite ADiamond Springs, CA 95619530-642-9710Constantly Growing4343 Hazel Avenue,Fair Oaks, CA 95628916-962-0043Constantly Growing - Davis123 D StreetDavis, CA 95616530-756-4774D&S Garden Supplies17-130 Doolittle DriveSan Leandro, CA 94577510-430-8589Dazey’s Supply3082 Redwood Drive,Redway, CA 95560707-923-3002Direct Hydroponics Wholesale14228 Alberts Way,Chino, CA 91710909-606-5885Dirt Cheap Hydroponics17975 H Highway 1,Fort Bragg, CA 95437707-964-4211Discount Hydroponics4745 Hiers Avenue,Riverside, CA 92505877-476-9487Eel River Hydroponics & Soil Supply164 Dinsmore Drive,Fortuna, CA 95540707-726-0395Elite Horticulture Supply22330 Sherman Way, C13,Canoga Park, CA 91303818-347-5172Emerald Garden8249 Archibald Avenue,Ranch Cucamanga, CA 91730909-466-3796Emerald Garden13325 South Highway 101,Hopland, CA 95482707-744-8300Emerald Garden307 East Perkins Street,Ukiah, CA 95482707-463-2510Evergreen Hydroponics923 N. Central Avenue, Suite B,Upland, CA 91786909-946-7100Everything Green Hydroponics915 Texas Street,Fairfield, CA 94533707-432-0774Everything Green448 Georgia Street,Vallejo, CA 94590707-647-0774Extreme Hydroponics11479 San Fernando Road C,San Fernando, CA 91340818-898-0915EZ Green Hydroponics7017 Reseda Boulevard,Reseda, CA 91335818-776-9076

Farm Hydroponics, The1950 Lake Tahoe Boulevard #3,S. Lake Tahoe, CA 96150530-541-3276Foothill Hydroponics10705 Burbank Boulevard,N. Hollywood, CA 91601818-760-0688Foothills Hydrogarden3133 Penryn Road,Penryn, CA 95663916-270-2413Four Seasons Garden Center1737 Broadway,Oakland, CA 94612510-832-2545Full Sun Supply3535 Industrial Drive, Unit B-3Santa Rosa, CA 95403877-FULL-SUNFunny Farms Hydroponics963 Transport Way, #12Petaluma, CA 94954707-775-3111G & G Organics and Hydroponics901 W. Victoria Street Unit D,Compton, CA 90220310-632-0122Garden Connection, The 2145 Park Avenue, Unit 2Chico, CA 95928530-342-7762Garden Depot, The203 Commerce St., Suite 101Lodi, CA 95240209-339-9950Garden Shed, The1136 El Camino RealSan Carlos, CA650-508-8600Garden Spout, The44800 Highway 101,Laytonville, CA 95454707-984-7260Garden Highway Garden Supply598 Garden Highway #22Yuba City, CA 95991530-755-2877Garden Spout, The630 S. Main Street,Willits, CA 95490707-456-0196Garden Warehouse6355 Scarlet Court, #2,Dublin, CA 94568925-556-3319Go Big Hydroponics4501 Van Nuys Boulevard,Sherman Oaks, CA 91403818-789-3341Golden Harvest Hydroponics & Garden Supply8626 Lower Sacramento Road #48,Stockton, CA 95210209-951-3550Gottagrow Garden Supply769 Wilson Street,Santa Rosa, CA 95404707-544-7782Grass Roots Hydroponics31877 Corydon, Suite 150Lake Elsinore, CA 92530951-245-2390Grass Valley Hydrogardens12520 Ste. 4, Loma Rica Drive,Grass Valley, CA 93945530-477-2996Green Acres Hydroponics1215 Striker Avenue, Suite 180,Sacramento, CA 95834916-419-4394

Green Coast Hydroponics3560 State Street,Santa Barbara, CA 93105805-898-9922Green Coast Hydroponics2405 Mira Mar Avenue,Long Beach, CA 90815562-627-5636Green Coast Hydroponics496 Meats AvenueOrange, CA 92865714-974-4769Green Coast Hydroponics11510 Whittier BoulevardWhittier, CA 90601562-699-4201Greenfire Sacramento3230 Auburn Boulevard,Sacramento, CA 95821916-485-8023Green Logic Garden Supply860 Piner Road, #38,Santa Rosa, CA 95403707-843-3156Greenmile Hydroponic Garden Supply1480 South E. Street, Suite D,San Bernardino, CA 92408909-885-5919Green Thumb Hydroponics35 Quinta Court, Suite B,Sacramento, CA 95823916-689-6464Green Thumb Lighting & Garden1647 W. Sepulveda Boulevard, Unit 5,Torrance, CA 90501888-326-GROWGreentrees Hydroponics Inc.2581 Pioneer Avenue, Unit DVista, CA 92081760-598-7551GreenWay Hydroponics11510 Whittier Boulevard,Whittier, CA 90601562-699-4201Grow A Lot Hydroponics, San Diego1591 N. Cuyamaca Street,El Cajon, CA 92020619-300-2138Growers Choice Hydroponics1100 Carver Road,Modesto, CA 95350209-522-2727Growers Choice Hydroponics16754 East 14th Street,San Leandro, CA 94578510-278-6200Grow It Yourself Gardens401 Sunset Drive, Suite L,Antioch, CA 94509925-755-GROWGrow King Hydroponics932 South San Pedro Street,Los Angeles, CA 90015213-689-8982Grow Light Express5318 East Second Street suite 164,Long Beach, CA 90803888-318-GROWGrow Your Own3401 Traval Street,San Francisco, CA 94116415-731-2115Grunder Family Organics & Hydroponics12321 Magnolia Avenue, Suite C,Riverside, CA 92503877-468-7974

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H20 Gardening355 West 7th Street,San Pedro, CA 90731310-514-1416Hahn’s Lighting260 E. VA Suite 1,San Jose, CA 95112408-295-1755Harvest Hydroponics6650 Merchandise Way Suite B,Diamond Springs, CA 95619530-622-5190High Desert Hydroponics13631 Pawnee Road, #7Apple Valley, CA 92308760-247-2090Hi-Tech Gardening5327 Jacuzzi Street, #282,Richmond, CA 94804510-524-4710Hollywood Hydroponics and Organics5109 1/2 Hollywood Boulevard,Los Angeles, CA 90027-6105323-662-1908Hooked Up Hydroponics339 S. Golden State Boulevard,Turlock, CA 95380209-668-1300House of Hydro224 Weller Street, #B,Petaluma, CA 94952707-762-4769Humboldt Hydroponics1302 Union Street,Eureka, CA 95501707-443-4304Humboldt Nutrients65th Street,Eureka, CA 95501888-420-7770Hydro Depot5665 Redwood Drive, #B,Rohnert Park, CA 94928707-584-2384Hydroasis2643 S. Fairfax Avenue,Los Angeles, CA 90232888-355-4769Hydrobrew1319 South Coast Highway,Oceanside, CA 92054760-966-1885; 877-966-GROWHydrogarden Delight13762 Doolittle Drive,San Leandro, CA 94577510-903-1808Hydrogarden Mendocino County1240 North Main Street,Fort Bragg, CA 95437707-962-9252Hydro-Logic Purification Systems2825 Mattison Lane,Suite 103,Santa Cruz, CA 95065888 H2O LOGICHydroPacific - Hydroponics & Garden Supplies351 C Hastings Av.,Ukiah, CA 95482707-467-0400Hydroponic Connection, The316 Fillmore Street,San Francisco, CA 94117415-864-9376

Hydroponic Connection Warehouse, The1995 Evans Avenue,San Francisco, CA 94124415-824-9376Hydroponics 4 Less41669 Winchester Avenue,Temecula, CA 92590800-A1-HYDROHydroponics Plus2250 Commerce Avenue, Suite CConcord, CA 94520925-691-7615Hydrostar Hydroponics & Organics1307 W. Sixth Street, #211,Corona, CA 92882951-479-8069Inland Empire Hydrogarden1301-C South State Street,San Jancinto, CA 92853886-72-HYDROInland Empire Hydrogarden28822 Old Town Front St. #206Temecula, CA 92590886-74-HYDROInnovative Growing Solutions (IGS)7922-B Miramar Road,San Diego, CA 92126858-578-IGS7Kaweah Grower Supply1106 1/2 N. Ben Maddox Way,Visalia, CA 93293559-652-4937Lazy Gardeners Hydroponics ‘N’ More14626 East Whittier Boulevard,Whittier, CA 90605562-945-0909Let it Grow1228 2nd Street,Crescent City, CA 95531707-464-9086Let it Grow160 Westwood Center,Arcata, CA 95521707-822-8733Liquid Gardens21752 Devonshire Street,Chatsworth, CA 91311818-718-7624Long Beach Hydroponics & Organics1772 Clark Avenue,Long Beach, CA 90815562-498-9525Lumatek Digital Ballasts33 Commercial Boulevard, Suite BNovato, CA 94949415-233-4273M&M Garden Supply2509 West Lane, Suite BStockton, CA 95205209-939-0664M&M Garden Supply22540 D Foothill Boulevard, 2509 Westlane Suite BStockton, CA 95205Marin Hydroponics1219 Grant Avenue,Novato, CA 94945415-897-2197Merced Hydroponics1635 M Street,Merced, CA 95340209-726-4769Mendocino Garden ShopPO Box 1301, 44720 Maint Street (at Hwy. 1),Mendocino, CA 95460707-937-3459

Mendocino Greenhouse & Garden Supply900 East School Way,Redwood Valley, CA 95470707-485-0668M.G.S.22540 D Foothill Boulevard,Hayward, CA 94541510-582-0900Monterey Bay Horticulture Supply224B Reindollar Avenue,Marina, CA 93933831-38-HYDROMonterey Bay Hydroponics and Organics81 Hangar Way, #1,Watsonville, CA 95076831-761-9999Myron L Company2450 Impala Drive,Carlsband, CA 9210-7226760-438-2021Mystic Gardens8484 Florin Road, #110,Sacramento, CA 95828916-381-2464National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply1950 C South Grove Avenue,Ontario, CA 91761888-888-3319Nature’s Dance Garden Supply6542 Front Street,Forestville, CA 95436707-887-2280Nature’s Secret Garden and Supply41469 Albrae Street,Fremont, CA 94577510-623-8393NorCal CreationsPO Box 28,Cedar Ridge, CA 95924Nor Cal Hydroponics4837 Geary Boulevard,San Francisco, CA 94118 415-933-8262Northcoast Horticulture Supply122 West 4th Street, Suite BEureka, CA 95501707-444-9999Northcoast Horticulture Supply1580 Nursery Way, Suite QMcKinleyville, CA 95519707-839-9998Northcoast Hydrogardens3450 North State Street,Ukiah, CA 95482707-462-7214No Stress Hydroponics7543 Santa Monica Boulevard,West Hollywood, CA 90046323-845-9874One Stop Hydroponics12822 Victory BoulevardNorth Hollywood, CA 91606818-980-5855Oracle Garden Supply5755 Oberlin Drive, Suite 100San Diego, CA 92121858-558-6006Orange County Hydroponics12687 Beach Boulevard, Unit H,Stanton, CA 90680714-893-9493Organic Bountea1919 Dennis Lane,Santa Rosa, CA 95403800-798-0765

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Orsa Organix111 Willow Street,Redwood City, CA 94063650-369-1269Pacific Beach Hydroponics1852 Garnet Avenue,San Diego, CA 92109858-274-2559Pacific Coast Hydroponics4147 Sepulveda Boulevard,Culver City, CA 90230310-313-1354Pacific Garden Supply128 H Carlos Drive,San Rafael, CA 94903Palmdale Hydroponics2728 East PalmdaleBoulevard Suite 108,Palmdale, CA 93550661-266-9908Palm Springs Hydroponics4651 Ramon Road,Palm Springs, CA 92264760-327-ROOTPlant It Earth2279 Market Street,San Francisco, CA 94114415-626-5082Plant Life32 Race Street,San Jose, CA 95126408-283-9191Precision Hydroponics132 Kennedy Avenue,Campbell, CA 95008408-866-8176Professional Gardening Systems765 Petaluma Avenue,Sebastopol, CA 95472707-829-7252Pro Gardening Systems3715 Santa Rosa Ave. Suite A2,Santa Rosa, CA 95407707-585-8633Redway Feed & Grain Supply290 Briceland Road,Redway, CA 95560707-923-2765Roots Grow Supply1330 North Hulbert, #101Fresno, CA 93728559-840-0122Sac Hydroponics9529 Folson Boulevard, Suite CSacramento, CA 95827916-369-7968San Diego Hydroponics East County11649 Riverside Drive,Suite 141,Lakeside, CA 92040619-562-3276San Diego Hydroponics Beach Cities4122 Napier Street,San Diego, CA 92110619-276-0657San Diego Hydroponics North802 N. Twin Oaks Valley Road #108San Marcos, CA 92069760-510-1444San Francisco Hydro123 Tenth Street,San Francisco, CA 94103Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - West815 Almar Avenue, Suite K,Santa Cruz, CA 95060831-466-9000

Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - East4000 Cordelia Lane #4,Soquel, CA 95073831-475-9900Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - North6241 Graham Hill Road,Felton, CA 95018831-335-9990Santee Hydroponics7973A Mission Gorge Road,Santee, CA 92071619-270-8649Seaside Hydrogarden1070 Highway 101 North,Crescent City, CA 95531707-465-3520Skywide Import & Export Ltd.5900 Lemon Hill Avenue,Sacramento, CA 95824916-383-2369Socal Hydroponics1727-B Oceanside Boulevard,Oceanside, CA 92054760-439-1084South Bay Hydroponics and Organics569 East Evelyn Avenue,Mountain View, CA 94041650-968-4070South Bay Hydroponics and Organics - San Jose1185 South Bascom Avenue,San Jose, CA 95128408-292-4040South County Hydroponics22511 Aspan Street, Suite ELake Forest, CA 92630949-837-8252South Valley Hydroponics320 Kishimura Drive, #3Gilroy, CA 950201-866-848-GROWSparetime Supply208 E. San Francisco Avenue,Willits, CA 95490-4006707-459-6791Sun-In Hydroponics1257A Cleveland Avenue,Santa Rosa, CA 95401707-578-5747Sunland Hydroponics8300 Foothill Boulevard,Sunland, CA 91040818-352-5300Supersonic Hydroponic and Organic Garden Supply850 Shasta Avenue, Suite BMorro Bay, CA 93442805-772-5869Supersonic Hydroponic and Organic Garden Supply3850 Ramada Drive, Unit D2Paso Robles, CA 93446805-434-2333Sweet Leaf Hydroponics1611 Sebastobol Road,Santa Rosa, CA 95407707-575-GROW (4237)Sylvandale Gardens77 Avenue, Of The Giants,Phillipsville, CA 95559707-923-3606Tell 2 Friends Indoor Gardening62 Sutherland Drive,Auburn, CA 95603530-889-8171Thrive Hydroponics70 A West North Street,Healdsburg, CA 95446707-433-4068

Thunders Hydroponic Center1729 Yosemite Boulevard,Medesco, CA 95354TNC Supply9490 Main Street, P.O. Box 763Upper Lake, CA 95485707-275-9565Tower Garden Supply3 E Olive,Fresno, CA 93728559-495-1140Tulare County Growers Supply435 W. Noble Avenue, Unit A,Farmerville, CA 93223559-732-8247Turbo Grow1889 San Pablo Avenue,Pinole, CA 94564510-724-1291Under The Sun12638 Foothill Boulevard,Clearlake Oaks, CA 95423707-998-GROW (4769)Urban Gardens22516 Ventura Boulevard,Woodland Hills, CA 91364818-876-0222Urban Gardens Unlimited704 Filbert Street,San Francisco, CA 94133415-421-4769US Orchid & Hydroponic Supplies1621 South Rose Avenue,Oxnard, CA 93033805-247-0086Valley Garden Solutions Inc.15650 Nordhoff Avenue, Suite 104,North Hills, CA 91345818-336-0041Wai Kula Hydrogardens5297 Linda Vista Road,San Diego, CA 92110619-299-7299Weather Top Nursery44901 Harmon Drive,Laytonville, CA 95454707-984-6385We Grow Hydroponics3350 East Los Angeles Avenue,Simi Valley, CA 93063805-624-4566West Coast Growers Hydroponics13481 Colifax Highway,Grass Valley, CA 95945888-924-4769West Coast Hydroponics, Inc.27665 Forbes Road, Unit 10Laguna Niguel, CA 92677949-348-2424Western Auto1156 Main Street,Fortuna, CA 95540707-725-1189

COLORADOBath Nursery & Garden Center2000 E. Prospect,Fort Collins, CO 80525970-484-5022Big Tomato, The14440 E. 6th AvenueAurora, CO 80011303-364-4769Big Tomato, The3000 Main Avenue,Durango, CO 81301970-375-1238

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Boulder County CaregiversPO Box 7406,Golden, CO 80403303-495-2195Boulder Hydroponics1630 N. 63rd Street, #5,Boulder, CO 80301303-415-0045Cultivate Hydroponics & Organics7777 W. 38th Avenue, #A120AWheat Ridge, CO 80033303-954-9897Denver Hydroponic & Organic Center6810 North Broadway, Unit DDenver, CO 80221303-650-0091Desert Bloom Hydroponics445 Pitkin Avenue,Grand Junction, CO 81501970-245-6427Garden Tech737 Garden of the Gods Road,Colorado Springs, CO 80907719-278-9777Greenhouse Tech917 East Fillmore,Colorado Springs, CO 80907719-634-0637Grow Store South, The5050 S. Federal Boulevard, #37,Englewood, CO 80110303-738-0202Grow Store, The8644 W. Colfax Avenue,Lakewood, CO 80215888-510-0350Head Start Hydroponics & Organic Gardening Emporium34500 US Highway 6, Unit B-9,North Edwards, CO 81632970-569-3139Hydro Shack, The220 Main Street, Suite EFrisco, CO 80443970-668-0359Indoor Paradise Hydroponics309 S. Summit View, Unit 17,Fort Collins, CO 80524-1462970-221-3751Rocky Mountain Lighting and Hydroponics7100 N. Broadway, Suite 3DDenver, CO 80221303-428-5020Way To Grow3201 E. Mulberry Street,Fort Collins, CO 80524970-484-4769Way To Grow6395 Gunpark Drive,Boulder, CO 80301303-473-4769

CONNECTICUTHarvest Moon Hydroponics775 Silver Lane,East Hartford, CT 06118860-568-4067LiquidSun® CT10C South Main Street,East Windsor, CT 06088860-254-5757Organix Hydroponics749 Saybrook Road, (Tradewinds Plaza)Middletown, CT 06457860-343-1923

FLORIDA3D Hydroponics and Organics7139 US Highway #19,New Port Richey, FL 34652727-847-3491Absolute Growing Solutions Inc.7307 49th Street,Pinellas Park, FL 33781727-541-3333Advanced Hydro Gardens4960 NW 165 Street, Suite B-4,Miami, FL 33014866-97-HYDROAtlantic Hydroponics430 Count Street,Melbourne, FL 32901321-821-1535Blossoms Experience, The7207 NW 54th Street,Miami, FL 33166866-452-4769Cultivating Eden Hydroponic Supplies946 18th Avenue SW,Vero Beach, FL 32962772-564-8880East Coast Hydroponics & Organics461 Forrest Avenue, Suite 105Coca, FL 32922321-243-6800Eden Garden Supply5044 N. Palafox Street,Pensacola, FL 32505850-439-1299Esposito Garden Center2743 Capital Circle NE,Tallahassee, FL 32308850-386-2114Florida Garden Supplies2692 W 79 Street,Hialeah, FL 330161-800-931-5215Florida Garden Supplies8020 Belvedere Road,Unit 4,West Palm Beach,FL 33411561-333-1088Future Farms Inc., The14291 SW 120th Street, Suite 105Miami, FL 33186305-382-2757Gardener’s Edge Gainesville5000 NW 34th Street, Suite 13,Gainesville, FL 32605352-375-2769Gardener’s Edge Jacksonville5325 Fairmont Street,Jacksonville, FL 32207904-398-8012Gardening Indoors of St. Pete13920 88th Avenue North,Seminole, FL 33776Gold Coast Hydroponics1539 SW 21st Avenue,Fort Lauderdale, FL 333121-800-780-7371Gold Coast Hydroponics4241 SW 71st Avenue,Miami, FL 331551-800-780-6805Grace’s Hydro-Organic Garden Center8877 North 56th StreetTampa, FL 33617813-514-9376Green Thumb Hydroponics Supplies13482 North Cleveland Avenue,Fort Meyers, FL 33903239-997-4769

GreenTouch Hydroponics Inc.5011 S State Road 7, Suite 104Davie, FL 33314954-316-8815Grower's Choice & Hydroponics11855 North Main Street,Jackonsonville, FL 32218904-683-4517Growing Experience, The7029-9 Commonwealth Avenue,Jacksonville, FL 32220954-960-0822Growing Garden Inc., The12811 SW 42nd Street,Miami, FL 33175305-559-0309Harvest Time Hydroponics14414 N. Florida Avenue,Tampa, FL 33613813-264-7101Healthy Gardens and Supply of Florida, Inc.196 East Nine Mile Road, Suite F,Pensacola, FL 32534850-912-4545High Tech Garden Supply2975 West New Haven Avenue,Melbourne, FL 32901321-821-0853Hydro For Less9545 Southwest 72nd Street,Miami, FL 33173305-598-4311Hydroponics International Inc.7029-10 Commonwealth Avenue,Jacksonville, FL 32220904-693-6554Hydroponics of Tampa120 W. Bougain Villea,Tampa, FL 33612813-333-6828Hydro Terra Corp.924 North Federal Highway,Hollywood, FL 33020954-920-0889Just Ripe Garden Supply13444 SW 131 Street,Miami, FL 33186305-969-2004Palm Beach Hydroponics Supply, Inc.968 N. Congress Avenue,West Palm Beach, FL 33409561-296-6161Simply Hydroponics & Organics7949 Ulmerton Road,Largo, FL 33773727-531-5355Simply Hydroponics & Organics (North)3642 South Suncoast Boulevard,Homosassa, FL 34448352-628-2655Sunshine Hydroponics Garden Center1420 East Altomonte Drive,Altamonte Spring, FL 32701407-830-GROWSunshine Hydroponics Garden Center5561 S. Orange Blossom Trail,Orlando, FL 32809407-859-7728Sunshine Hydroponics Garden Center6100 Hanging Moss Road,Suite 500,Orlando, FL 32807888-833-GROWWorm’s Way Florida4412 North 56th Street,Tampa, FL 33610800-283-9676; 813-621-1792

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141MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

GEORGIAAtlantis Hydroponics1422 Woodmont Lane, #4,Atlanta, GA 30318404-367-0052Atlantis Hydroponics2561 West Point Avenue,College Park, GA 30337678-510-0032Flora Hydroponics Inc.2475 Jefferson Road, Suite 600Athens, GA 30607866-404-0551Savannah Hydroponics & Organics4107 Eighth Street, Suite CGarden City, GA 31408912-349-4030

HAWAIIAqua Plant Hawaii / Kahala Hydroponics4224 Wailae, Suite 1A,Honolulu, HI 96816808-735-8665Ohana Greenhouse & Garden Supply300 Hukilike Street, #2M,Kahalui, HI 96732808-871-6393Pahoa Feed & Fertilizer15-2754 Old Government Road,Pahoa, HI 96778808-965-9955

IDAHOBoise Hydroponics614 North Orchard Street,Boise, ID 83706208-344-3053Greenthumb Greenhouses5895 Ensign Avenue,Boise, ID 83714

ILLINOISAerostar Global824 South Kay Avenue,Addison, IL 60101Alternative Garden SupplyA-615 Industrial Drive,Gary, IL 60013800-444-2837Big Grow Hydroponics9225 Trinity Drive,Lake In The Hills, IL 60156Brew and Grow1824 North Besly Court,Chicago, IL 60622773-395-1500Brew and Grow3224 South Alpine Road,Rockford, IL 61109815-874-5700Brew and Grow2379 Bode Road, Schaumburg, IL 60194847-885-8282Fertile Ground463 West MacArthur Drive,Cottage Hills, IL 62018618-259-5500Green Fields8137 N. Milwaukee,Niles, IL 60714847-965-5056Grow Big Hydroponics7817 B North 2nd Street,Manchesney Park, IL 61115815-637-4769Hydrocork20647 Renwick Road,Crest Hill, IL 60435815-838-0100

Kreation’s Indoor Gardening Center3427 Old Chatman Road,Springfield, IL 62704217-341-0821Let it Grow - CarbondaleWest Main Street,Carbondale, IL 62908573-450-5401Water Works Indoor Gardening1900 South Dirksen Parkway,Springfield, IL 62703217-553-6929

INDIANABWGS7854 North State Road 37,Bloomington, IN 47404800-316-1306Five Point Gardens56555 Oak Road,South Bend, IN 46619574-287-9232Frogs Lilly Pad, The706 Citation Road,Carmel, IN 46032317-846-4610Harvest Moon Hydroponics4200 S. East Street,Indianapolis, IN 46227317-780-8070Magic Bulb Garden Center6229 Allisonville Road,Indianapolis, IN 46220317-202-2852Sunleaves Garden Products7854 North State Road 37,Bloomington, IN 47404888-464-9676Worm’s Way Indiana7850 North State Road 37,Bloomington, IN 47404800-598-8158

KANSASGreen Circle Hydroponics6890 W. 105th Street,Overland Park, KS 66212913-642-3888

KENTUCKYGarden Grove Organics29 East 7th Street,Covington, (Cincinnati Metro), KY 41011859-360-1843Grow Shop, The of Lexington2320 Palumbo Drive, Suite 130,Lexington, KY 40509859-268-0779Louisville Hydroponics3471 Taylor Boulevard,Louisville, KY 40215502-366-4000New Earth Garden Center9810 Taylorsville Road,Louisville, KY 40299800-462-5953Worm’s Way Kentucky1360 Donaldson Hwy. Suite A,Erlanger, KY 41018800-669-2088

LOUISIANALaughing Buddha Nursery4516 Clearview Parkway,Metairie, LA 70006504-887-4336

Urban Organics2805 St. Claude Avenue,New Orleans, LA 70117504-945-8845

MAINEGreen Thumb Indoor Gardening19 Stage Road,St. Albans, ME 04971207-938-5909Urban Gardenstore, The235 Lewiston Road,Topshan, ME 04086207-373-0990

MARYLANDEast Coast Organics2800 Sisson Street,Baltimore, MD 21211Healthy Gardens and Supply5001-F Harford Road,Baltimore, MD 21214443-708-5144Maryland Hydroponics & Garden Supply10-10051 North 2nd Street, Laurel, MD 20723866-MD-HYDROMeadowview Feed & Garden Center1202 Meadowview Road,Pasadena, MD 21122443-817-0018Purple Mountain Organics100-7010 Westmoreland Avenue,Takoma Park, MD 20912877-538-9901

MASSACHUSETTSGreen Path Garden Supply276 West Main Street,Northborough, MA 01532508-393-4181LiquidSun® MA8 Lynwood Avenue,Holyoke, MA 01040413-539-6875Worm’s Way Massachusetts121 Worc-Providence Turnpike,Sutton, MA 01590800-284-9676

MICHIGANBIg Creek Hydroponics555 Old Little Lake Road,Marquette, MI 49855906-249-5297Cultivation Station of Michigan Inc., The23529 Little Mack Avenue,St Claire’s Shores, MI 48080586-775-9485Growco Garden Supply1042 Michigan Street, NE,Grand Rapids, MI 49503877-939-6900Home Grown Hydroponics8075 Gratiot Road, Unit C,Saginaw MI 48609989-781-1930Homelight Gardens3471 S. Huron Road,Bay City, MI 48706989-922-0088Horizen Hydroponics1614 Leonard Street, NW,Grand Rapids,MI 49504866-791-7057

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142 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

Hydroharrys.com24500 Dequindre,Warren, MI 48091800-461-8819Hydrospot34236 Michigan Avenue,Wayne, MI 48184734-722-1285J&L Growco206 S. Michigan Avenue,Big Rapids, MI 49307231-796-1528Kalamazoo Indoor Garden450 W. Maple,Kalamazoo, MI 49001269-344-2550Light Green Water3661 Highland Road,Waterford, MI 48329248-681-0001SH Hydroponics Inc.115 Holmes Road, Building 3 Suite A,Ypsilanti, MI 48198734-879-4014Sunshine Supply Co.1807 South Mission,Mt. Pleasant, MI 48858989-775-3700Superior Growers Supply19582 Middlebelt Road,Livonia, MI 48152248-473-0450Superior Growers Supply4870 Dawn Avenue,East Lansing, MI 48823517-332-2663Van Hydro7480 N State,Davison, MI 48423810-653-8267Wild Child7740 M 72 East,Traverse City, MI 49690866-711-GROW

MINNESOTAAmerican Garden Supply601-6th Avenue, North,Princeton, MN 55371763-631-0543Brew and Grow8179 University Avenue,Fridley, MN 55432612-780-8191EcoGarden Supply1553 Como Avenue, Suite BSt. Paul, MN 55108Eden Indoor Organic Gardens831 Highway 75 NorthMoorhead, MN 56560218-477-EDEN (3336)Indoor Gardening10 NE 3rd Street,Faribault, MN 55021507-209-1546Interior Gardens115 -1620 Central Avenue NE,Minneapolis, MN 55413800-498-4178; 612-870-9077Midwest Hydroponics3440 Belt Line Boulevard, Suite A,Minneapolis, MN 55416888-449-2739

Still-H2O Inc.14375 North 60th Street,Stillwater, MN 55082651-351-2822

MISSOURIDivine Hydroponics301 North Bishop Avenue,Rolla, MO 65401573-426-2348Grow Your Own Hydroponics3617 Saint John Avenue,Kansas City, MO 64123816-241-2122Green Circle Hydroponics12 East Missouri,Kansas City, MO 64106816-421-1840Heartland Hydroponics5695 E. Clark Lane, Suite L,Columbia, MO 65202573-474-GROW (4769)Let It Grow - Springfield2519 E. Kearney Street,Springfield, MO 65803417-862-GROWLet It Grow - Girardeau879 S. Kings Highway,Cape Girardeau, MO 63703573-803-0628U-Grow1724 North, 13th Street,St. Louis, MO 63106314-452-6368Worm’s Way Missouri1225 North Warson Road,St. Louis, MO 63132800-285-9676

NEBRASKAAdvanced Hydro-Ponics10711 Mockingbird Drive,Omaha, NE 68127 (108th and L-Q)402-991-6630Paradigm Gardens8949 J Street, Suite 5,Omaha, NE 68127402-339-4949Patio-Ponics3255 Cornhusker Highway, Suite 4Lincoln, NE 68504402-466-9218

NEVADAAAA Indoor Organic Garden SuperCenter2101 S. Decatur Boulevard, #21,Las Vegas, NV 89102702-450-4769Advanced Gardens Hydroponics3111 South Valley View,Suite V103Las Vegas, NV 89102702-257-4769All American Hydroponics2675 East Patrick Lane, Unit 8,Las Vegas, NV 89120702-894-9888Anything Grows190 West Moana Lane,Reno, NV 89509775-828-1460Carson Valley Hydroponics2520 Empire Ranch Road,Carson City, NV 89701775-884-4769

Lorraine Ink290 Spear Court,Fernley, NV 89408775-575-7757Nevada Hydroponics4700 B Maryland, Suite 1,Las Vegas, NV 89119702-798-2852

NEW HAMPSHIREHydro World17 White Birch Lane,Lincoln, NH 03251603-745-3030

NEW JERSEY77HYDRO37 Fairfield Place,West Caldwell, NJ 07006877-774-9376Claraqua4 Redwood Court,West Windsor, NJ 08550East Coast Horticultural Supply1652 Hurffville Road,Swewell, NJ 08080856-228-5290Green Touch 2 Hydroponics Inc.888 Route 33, Unit 1,Hamilton, NJ 08619609-570-8829

NEW MEXICOAHL Garden Supply1051 San Mateo Blvd. SE,Albuquerque, NM 87108505-255-3677Common Shaman1319 San Mateo N.E.,Albuquerque, NM 87110505-255-6463

NEW YORKCalifornia Hydroponics27 Corporate Circle,East Syracuse, NY 13057315-432-9387East Coast Hydroponics14649 Horace Harding Exp,Flushing, NY 11367718-762-8880Environmental Gardens8 John Walsh Boulevard, Suite 310Peekskills, NY 10566800-254-0507; 914-736-6676FutureGarden Inc.59 Central Avenue,Farmingdale, NY 11735516-420-0884Greentree Nursery308 Elmira Road,Ithaca, NY 14850607-272-3666Grow Room, The8 Bridge Street,Nyack, NY 10960800-449-9630Harvest Moon HydroponicsHenrietta Townline Plaza,3047 West Henrietta Road,Rochester, NY 14623716-865-7353Harvest Moon Hydroponics340 West at 59,Central Nyack, NY 10960Harvest Moon Hydroponics147 Fourth Street,Troy, NY 10960

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HYDROGARDENS

H Y D R O P O N I C S I N C .greentouch2

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143MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

Hudson Valley Hydroponics217 Route 32 North,New Paltz, NY 12561845-255-3633Hydro Garden Center1069B Lyell Avenue,Rochester, NY 146061-800-277-1322Hydroponics of Buffalo1497 Hertel Avenue,Buffalo, NY 14216716-838-3545Hydroponics Shops of America2606 Erie Boulevard,Syracuse, NY 13224315-251-2516Indoor Outdoor Gardener8223 5th Avenue,Brooklyn, NY 11209718-836-2402KG Garden Supply1327 Floyd Avenue,Rome, NY 134401-877-KG-HYDROSaratoga Organics & Hydroponic Supply19 Front Street,Ballston Spa, NY 12020518-885-2005; 800-850-4769Sunlight Solutions Hydroponics2045 Niagara Falls Boulevard, Suite 13,Niagara Falls, NY 14304888-GROWBOX

NORTH CAROLINAAsheville Agricultural Systems45 Banks Avenue,Asheville, NC 28801828-253-4112Be Well Hydroponics & Urban Gardening4732 Monroe Road,Charlotte, NC 28205704-344-8010BWGS East4045 Perimeter West Drive, Suite 400Charlotte, NC 28214800 316 1306Carolina Hydrogardens4823 Meadow Drive,Durham, NC 27713919-544-4300Fifth Season Gardening Company1616 D-3 Battleground Avenue,Greensboro, NC 27408336-271-3373Flow & Grow Hydroponics & Organic Garden Center4521 Cumberland Road,Fayetteville, NC 28306910-423-FLOW (3569)Garden Works, The5619-A Hillsborough Street,Raleigh, NC 27606919-852-4747New Age Gardens2236A US Highway 70,Swannanoa, NC 28778828-299-9989Progressive Gardens6005 Oleander Drive,Wilmington, NC 28403910-395-1156Urban Organics and Hydroponics4604 W. Market Street, Suite 106,Greensboro, NC 27407336-316-0604Water’s Edge Hydro-Gardens & Organics107 South White Street,Wake Forest, NC 27587919-562-5343

OHIOAdvanced Hydrorganics Indoor Garden Center5204 Darrow Road,Hudson, OH 44236234-380-1287Akron Garden Center1749 South Main Street,Akron, OH 44319330-724-2700Blooming Gardens1805 Elm Road,Warren, OH 44483330-372-1039Cleveland Garden Center Inc.727 East 185th Street,Cleveland, OH 44119216-481-7868CropKing134 West Drive,Lodi, OH 44254330-302-4203Carefree Garden Center134 West Drive,Lodi, OH 44254330-302-4203Dayton Hydroponics3856 Miamisburg-Centerville Road, West Carrolton, OH 45449937-859-3999Garden Indoors of Ohio4720 Indianola Avenue,Columbus, OH 43214800-833-6868Harvest Moon9215 Market Street,Youngstown (North Lima), OH 44452800-776-8399Garden Grove Organics29 East 7th Street,Covington, (Cincinnati Metro), KY 41011859-360-1843Grow Wizard, The5700 Denison Avenue,Cleveland, OH 44102216-961-2500Herb-N-Garden Center14901 Puritas Avenue,Cleveland, OH 44135216-252-2001Indoor Garden Worx906 Blue Avenue,Zanesville, OH 43701866-900-9679Indoor Gardens1222 Hill Road, North,Pickerington, OH 43147614-866-6065Kissed by the Sun Hydroponic10740 Reading Road,Cincinnati, OH 45241513-769-0159Magic Home Gardens209 Cemetery Road,Canal Winchester, OH 43110614-837-2440Magic Home Garden4538 Indianola Avenue,Columbus, OH 43214614-263-2440Summit Hydroponics1030 Kenmore Boulevard Akron, OH 44314-2114330-753-5222Sweet Greens5540 Brecksville RoadIndependence, OH 44131800-421-7084

Super Harvest5956 A Colerain Avenue,Cincinnati, OH 45239513-385-5999Toledo Hydroponics Ltd.855 S. Holland-Sylvania Road, Suite 2Toledo, OH 436151-877-893-0716Trinity Hydro Organics435 Woodman DriveRiverside, OH 45431937-252-GROWWorm’s Way - Greater Cincinatti / N. Kentucky1360 Donaldson Road(Route 236), Suite A,Erlanger, KY 41018800-669-2088

OKLAHOMAAAAAHA! Hydroponics Unlimited P.O. Box 74,Oakhurst, OK 74050Tulsa County Hydro-Organics1928 W. Albany,Broken Arrow, OK 74012918-259-HYDROUrban Garden3141 E. 15th Street,Tulsa, OK 74104918-289-0018

OREGONAmerican Agriculture9220 Southeast Stark Street,Portland, OR 97216800-433-6805Anthony’s Garden & Light Supply93779 B Troy Lane,Coos Bay, OR 97420541-266-8822Aqua Serene2836 W. 11,Eugene, OR 97402541-485-2171Aqua Serene Hydro Gardens1090 Benson Way,Ashland, OR 97520541-482-7600Basin Indoor Gardening1221 Main Street, Klamath Falls, OR 97601541-273-2023B.I.G.S.155 SW Century Drive, Suite 401,Bend, OR 97702541-385-5222BIGS Warehouse2606 SW 4th Street, Unit BRedmond, OR 97756541-504-8886Cascade Horticulture39570 Pioneer Boulevard,Sandy, OR 97055503-668-8242Corvallis Hydroponics & Organics5490 Philomath Road,Corvallis, OR 97333541-738-2820Everybody’s Garden Center2701 SE 14th Avenue,Portland, OR 97202503-231-1582Garden Spout, The4532 South East 63rd Avenue,Portland, OR 97206503-788-4769Gorge Garden Center1203 12th Street Suite H,Hood River, OR 97031541-386-GROW

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Garden Supplies

Gorilla Garden Supply1810 Virginia Avenue,North Bend, OR 97459541-756-5005Green Thumb Hydrogarden and Organic Supply2021 West Main Street,Medford, OR 97501541-779-8600Grodan Inc.Box 1836,Jacksonville, OR 97530541-646-8245Grow America Garden Supply LLC11511 SW Pacific Highway,Tigard, OR 97223503-841-6868Growing Crazy (Hooked On Hydroponics)817 W. 2nd Street,Medford, OR 97501Herb N’ Jungle Hydroponics930 SE Textron Drive,Bend, OR 97702541-382-4010Homegrown Garden Supply7112 NE Gilsan Street,Portland, OR 97213877-EZ2-GROWIndoor Garden Center1697 SE 25th Street,Salem, OR 97302503-566-7888Indoor Garden Depot15828 SE McLoughlin Boulevard,Milwaukie, OR 97267503-786-2445Island Flowers & Indoor Garden Center909 N. Tomahawk Island Drive, Suite 103, Portland, OR 97217503-546-3185J-N-B Hydro 2 Go155 West Central Avenue,Sutherlin, OR 97479541-459-9211Ladybug Indoor Gardens3960 W. Main Street,Medford, OR 97501541-618-4459Lights Distributing9843 SW 55th Avenue,Portland, OR 97219Liquid Sun1845 Southwest Highway 101,Lincoln City, OR 97367541-994-7070Northern Light and Garden Beaverton9290 SW Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway, Beaverton, OR 97005503-297-7331Northern Light and Garden Grants Pass1203 Rogue River Highway,Grants Pass, OR 97527541-474-1700Northern Light and Garden Salem1915 Lancester Drive,Salem, OR 97305503-364-4769Oregon Rainforest Co.19949 E. Burnside Street,Gresham, OR 97233503-465-9909Paradise Supply Inc.1409 N. Highway 99,Ashland, OR 97520541-552-1037

Rain or Shine13126 NE Airport Way,Portland, OR 97230503-255-1981Roots Garden Supply5426 North Gay Avenue,Portland, OR 97217503-285-4768Roseburg Hydroponics853 SE Stephens Street,Roseburg, OR 97470541-229-1420SunInside Gardening Co.665 Conger, Unit F,Eugene, OR 97402541-686-9966Urban Flora2865 South East,Portland, OR 97214503-236-3344Wizard's Garden, LLC621 Spruce Street, Unit C,Myrtle Point, OR 97458541-572-2333

PENNSYLVANIAFull Bloom Hydroponics84 South 24th Street,Pittsburgh, PA 15203888-872-3602Garden Indoors of Pennsylvania208 Route 13,Bristol, PA 19007800-227-4567Harvest Moon Hydroponics1239 South Airport Road,Allentown, PA 18103610-432-4949Healthy Gardens and Supply1012 Lincoln Avenue,Prospect Park, PA 19076866-32-HYDROHigh Tech Garden Supply20232 Route 19, Unit 6,Cranberry Twp., PA 16066724-473-1113Home Hydroponics of Pittsburgh2008 Smallman Street,Pittsburgh, PA 15222412-232-7030Home Hydroponics of Pittsburgh830 Route 119,Greensburg, PA 15601724-836-1118

RHODE ISLANDLiquidSun® RI1179 Central Avenue,Pawtucket, MA 02861401-722-2724

SOUTH CAROLINA247 Garden Supply535 D Clemson Road,Columbia, SC 29229803-788-4445All Good Hydroponics & Gardening6729 Two Notch Road,Columbia, SC 29223803-708-4819GreenSpirit Hydrogarden184 Meeting Street,Charleston, SC 29407843-225-1GRO;Green Thumb Unique Gardening & More1230 Rutherford Road,Greenville, SC 29609864-271-8830

TENNESSEEAdvanced Hydroponic Garden783 French Mill Road,Dandridge, TN 37725800-521-1643Advanced Hydroponic Garden6912 Clinton Highway,Knoxville, TN 37921866-938-3318All Seasons Gardening and Brewing Supply Co.924 8th Avenue, South,Nashville, TN 37203800-790-2188Atlantis Hydroponics1800 Rossville Avenue, #3,Chattanooga, TN 37408423-752-5400National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply126 Belinda Parkway,Mt. Juliet, TN 37122888-265-9005Perpetual Harvest75 Riverport Drive,Jackson, TN 38301877-422-3391Sun City Hydroponics2235 Whitten Road, Suite 104,Memphis, TN 38133901-372-8100Worm’s Way Tennessee707 Rivergate Parkway, Suite EGoodlettsville, TN 37072800-397-4153

TEXASAirline HydroponicsP.O. Box 980904, Trader’s Village #363,Houston, TX 77098713-942-0484Botani Hydroponics & Organics7730 Highway 6 SouthHouston, TX 77083281-575-1999Brite Ideas Hydroponics & Organics4360 S.Congress Avenue, #310,Austin, TX 78745512-444-2100Field of Dreams Indoor Growing Supplies5302 Slide Road Unit B,Lubbock, TX 79414806-793-2901GroGreen Hydroponics4015 Main Street,Dallas, TX 75226214-370-9984Houston Discount Hydroponics9384 Richmond Avenue,Houston, TX 77063713-464-9406Hydro Mart3841 Main Street,Rowlett, TX 75088972-475-6114Innergrow Hydroponics24451 Interstate Highway 20,Wills Point, TX 75169866-475-4769Jolly Green Hydroponics (Greenhouse Horticultural Supplies)13628 Neutron Road,Dallas, TX 75244(866) WE-JOLLY; 469-341-5555

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145MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

Lone Star Hydroponics and Organics1302 Motor Circle,Dallas, TX 75207214-634-9376Sol Organics & Hydroponics1634 Babcock Road,San Antonio, TX 78229210-366-9082Texas Growers Supply5990 N. Sam Houston Pkwy. E. #602,Humble, TX 77396281-441-3739Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Central Austin)5126 Burnet Road,Austin, TX 78756512-459-4769Texas Hydroponics & Organics (South Austin)2125-A Goodrich Avenue,Austin, TX 78704512-440-4769Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Dallas)3400 Elm Street,Dallas, TX 75226214-744-4769Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Houston)7730 A Park Place Boulevard,Houston, TX 77087713-641-4769Ultimate Hydroponic Garden Supply6125 West Sam HoustonParkway, North Suite 206Houston, TX 77041713-856-8425

UTAHSalt Lake Plant & Hydro60 West 3300 S. #6,South Salt Lake, UT 84115801-488-3200

VERMONTGreen Thumb GardeningP.O. Box 235, Route 15,Underhill, VT 5489800-564-9376Greenthumb - Vermont394 Route 15,Jericho, VT 05465 802-899-4323LiquidSun® VT1 Bellows Falls Road, (Route 5 North)Putney, VT 05158802-387-1100

VIRGINIABlue Ridge Hydroponics & Home Brewing Co.5524 Williamson Road, Suite 11Roanoke VA 24012540-265-2483Clean & Green Technologies196 Corning Drive,Christiansburg, VA 24073866-694-1628Hydroponics & Growlights13400 Occoquan Road,Woodbridge, VA 22191703-490-0700I Love Hydroponics612 N. Sheppard Street,Richmond, VA 23221804-377-3020I Love Hydroponics368 Newtown Road, #105,Virginia Beach, VA 23462757-490-5425

Inside-Out Garden Supply6517 Backlick Road,Springfield, VA 22150703-451-3259

WASHINGTONAqua Serene3839 Stone Way North,Seattle, WA 98103206-547-GROWEco Enterprises1240 NE 175th Street, #BShoreline, WA 98155800-426-6937Garden Smart500 Bond Drive,Castlerock, WA 98611360-274-7960Green Gardens Distributing12738 Bel-Red Road,Bellevue, WA 98005425-454-5731Hydro-Tech2121 Aurora Avenue, North,Seattle, WA 98103206-547-2202Indoor Garden Depo6305 NE Highway 99,Vancouver, WA 98665360-993-7779Indoor Garden & Lighting3839 6th Avenue,Tacoma, WA 98406253-761-7478Indoor Garden & Lighting23303 Highway 99, Suite A,Edmonds, WA 98026425-673-2755Indoor Garden & Lighting714 South Central Avenue,Kent, WA 98032253-373-9060Kent Garden Supplies Ltd.18817 East Valley Highway,Kent, WA 98032425-251-9299Linda’s Gardening & Hydroponics11522 Canyon Road East,Puyallup, WA 98373253-531-9641Liquid Sunshine Hydroponics5087 Lincoln Road,Blaine, WA 98230M & R Lighting17238 Memorial Drive,Mt. Vernon, WA 98273360-848-1080M & R LightingUnit C 22914 Highway 410,Buckley, WA 98390253-891-4190National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply5408 NE 88th Street, Building A,Vancouver, WA 98665888-478-6544Northern Light and Garden Vancouver6305 NE Highway 99,Vancouver, WA 98665360-993-7779Northern Lights Gardening4159 Hannegan Road,Bellingham, WA 98225360-715-8585Northwest Horticulture Supply161 Hooker Road, #1,Sequim, WA 98057360-582-0702

Renton Indoor Garden Center207 Sunset Blvd. N, Building A,Renton, WA 98055425-917-9000River City Hydroponics1514 East Francis Avenue,Spokane, WA 99208509-464-0246Solar Shop306 West 4th Street,Tonasket, WA 98855509-486-4508Spokane Organic and Hydroponic Supply4823 East Sprague Avenue E.,Spokane Valley, WA 99212509-534-4055

WISCONSINAric's Indoor Garden Supply1104 West Wisconsin Avenue,Appleton, WI 54914920-574-3258Brew and Grow285 N. Janacek Road,Brookfield, WI 53045262-789-0555Brew and Grow3317 Agriculture Drive,Madison, WI 53716608-226-8910Grow BIG Hydroponics954 S. Westland,Appleton, WI 54914920-749-4769Paradigm Gardens4539 Helgesen Drive,Madison, WI 53718608-241-3800

PUERTO RICOTecno-HydroAve Campo Rico GJ17,Carolina, PR 00982787-752-8252

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146 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

COMING UP INseptember

FEATURES

WIN BIG! GROW BIG!Don’t miss out on your chance to win this month’s amazing prizes in our bi-monthly online reader contest. Visit www.maximumyield.com/winbig and enter your name for four chances to win. While you’re there, why not sign up for our free monthly E-News featuring the latest news and tricks in our industry.

www.maximumyield.com

ARE YOU AFRAID OF THE DARK?Jonathan Valdman of Forever Flowering Greenhouses examines light deprivation or blacking out, and how this technique shortens the duration of the sun’s light cycle.

THE PLANT FACTORYDr. Mike Nichols researches the history of greenhouses and how this unique plant environment has developed in countries around the world.

Visit indoorgardenexpo.com for all of the latest updates of the 2009 Indoor Gardening Expo tour. Plan to attend.

FEED CIRCUITSBob Taylor discusses how a tidy and uncomplicated feed circuit minimizes the risk of leaks and blockages in your hydroponic grow system.

CLOTHE YOUR SOIL WITH COVER CROPSRoland Evans examines cover crops, or green manures, as a crucial element of sustainable organic cultivation.

DRYING AND PRESERVING HERBSThe ancient process of drying and preserving herbs for culinary purposes is presented by Matt LeBannister.

KEEPING ROOTS IN TIP TOP CONDITIONDr. Lynette Morgan provides proven tips and tricks that preserve the health of your plants’ roots.