History of Women’s Clothing ................................1 - 5

Women Traditional Clothing ..............................................6 - 12

Motifs ofClothing ............................................13 - 17

Contents

Introduction

GUIDE NOTETEACHING

VISUAL ART EDUCATION

THEME : CLOTHING AND GRAPHIC DESIGN

PART 1 : PRE VISIT TO ISLAMICARTMUSEUM

Part 1 : Pre Visit To Islamic Art Museum. This part will be conducted at classroom. Teachers need to read all information from this part inorder to convey it to the students. This part focusing onclothing theme.

History of Women’s Clothing ................................1 - 5

Women Traditional Clothing ..............................................6 - 12

Motifs ofClothing ............................................13 - 17

HistoryWo m e n ' s C l o t h i n g

In the 13th century, the early era of the Malacca Sultanate, 'kain sarung' is a Malay women's clothing at the time. They use 'kain sarung' to wrap their body and 'berkemban' from the chest downward .They will only fully clothed when they are going out from the house. Normally, 'kain sarung' are worn with a loose shirt either it is short or long. Generally as a Muslim, clothing on that time reveal a certain 'aurah' ofwomen.

Based on Archjadi Judi (1986) 'baju kurung' was first introduced by Muslim traders in Indonesia and India. The original piece is identified receive influence from the Middle East where the form of a 'tunik' cut in the neck. The design of 'tunik' cut is ashape that worn by Arabs’ people in the past

During the Age of the Malacca Sultanate, the peoples already had their own costumes, which is the original Malay ‘baju kurung’. Clothes worn by them is in a tight and short which is different from traditional clothes that loose and baggy. Based on the history of Malay, Tun Hassan Temenggong was the first person who modify the original design of ‘baju kurung’ to the design of ‘baju melayu’ worn now.

Before independence, the popular clothing for women Malays is 'kebaya pendek', the clothes designing according to own body shape which is produced using thin fabricand sparse.

The sparse clothes during that time worn with a sleeveless shirt inside before put on 'baju kebaya' and it usually worn with 'batik lepas'.

The arrival of Islam to the 'Tanah Melayu' has changed the way of Malay women's clothing from 'berkemban' developed into clothes that cover their 'aurah' properly suchas 'baju kurung' and 'baju kebaya'.

Historically, the origin of 'baju kurung' has a relation with clothing that originated from Egypt which is 'Djallabiyah' where is define as loose shirt. Originally, 'baju kurung' areworn by various ethnic communities at the Wilayah Nusantara.

Before Independence

Figure 1 : Part of communities in Desa Munthuk, Yogjakarta ‘berkemban’ and wrap their body used ‘kain sarung’

Figure 2 : Form of a ' tunik ' cut in the neck

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After independence era ( 1957 - 1970 an ), the way how Malay's women dressed is changed and it is associated with the 'a-go-go' which is era of modern styles such as mini skirts and dresses. At this time, there is a changes of traditional ' baju kurung' to modern 'baju kurung' and the cutting design is more seductive.

Some of modern 'baju kurung' characteristics are exposing the neck, exposing certain part on chest and a zip at the back. This modern 'baju kurung' commonly worn withtight silk and ambivalent at back.

After Independence

1957 until 1970s

In the 1980s was the year that are applicable with the Malay community awareness about Islam. The choice of clothing at the time was more to a traditional dress that cover their 'aurah' because the Islamic style clothing is already acceptable by Malay Muslim community. They start wearing loose shirt and dress modestly.

‘Baju kurung’ has begun decorated with various kinds of embroidery, beads andsequins to make it more luxurious.

1980s

Another major change when various 'ropol' are used to decorate baju kurung. During this time 'ropol' is really famous and various beautiful design are created to full filledthe desire.

1992s

At the end of 1990 and early 2000, emerge the new designs for the traditional dress of Malay women called "kebarung".

2000s

1990s

Figure 3 : Example of embroidery, beads and sequins

Figure 4 : Example of various ‘ropol’

Figure 5 : Pattern and traditional ‘kebarung’

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