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ContentsContents
Welcome to Moscow .......4
Moscow’s Top 10 .............6
What’s New .................... 13
Need to Know ................ 14
Top Itineraries ............... 16
If You Like… .................... 18
Month by Month ........... 20
With Kids ........................22
Like a Local ....................23
For Free ..........................24
Eating ........................... 25Drinking & Nightlife... 28Entertainment ............. 31Shopping ...................... 35Tour ofthe Metro ..................... 38
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand Moscow 181
Survival Guide 225
Moscow Maps 257
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore Moscow 42
Transport .................... 226
Directory A–Z ............. 232
Language .................... 240
Index ............................ 251
Moscow Today .............182
History ..........................184
Art & Architecture ...... 206
Literature & Cinema ... 213
Performing Arts ..........219
Neighbourhoods at a Glance ...................44Kremlin & Kitay Gorod ................... 46
Tverskoy .........................73
Presnya ......................... 90
Arbat & Khamovniki ....102
Zamoskvorechie ..........121
Basmanny & Taganka ........................134
Dorogomilovo & Sparrow Hills ............... 147
Day Trips from Moscow .............155
Sleeping .................... 169
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Left: Portrait artist at work by the Wall of Peace, Arbat (p114)
Above: Churchwarden at Upper St Peter Mon-astery, Tverskoy (p76)
Right: Shashlyks cook-ing at Noev Kovcheg, Basmanny (p140)
JON
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TOM
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T IMA
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©
JON
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Tverskoyp73
Presnyap90
Dorogomilovo& Sparrow Hills
p147
Arbat& Khamovniki
p102
Zamoskvorechiep121
Kremlin& Kitay
Gorod p46 Basmanny& Taganka
p134
Neighbourhoods at a Glance . . . . . . . . .44
Kremlin & Kitay Gorod . . . . . . . . .46Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . . 71Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . . . 71Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
Tverskoy . . . . . . . . . . . . 73Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . .84Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . . .85Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
Presnya . . . . . . . . . . . .90Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . .99Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . .100Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
Arbat & Khamovniki . . . . . . . . 102Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .109Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 117Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . . 118Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
Zamoskvorechie . . . . 121Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . .130Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . . 132Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
Basmanny & Taganka . . . . . . . . . . . 134Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 142Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . . 144Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
Dorogomilovo & Sparrow Hills . . . . . . . 147Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 152Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . . 152Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
Day Tripsfrom Moscow. . . . . . . 155Abramtsevo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156Sergiev Posad . . . . . . . . . . . 157Vladimir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159Suzdal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163Borodino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . 169
JON
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AG
ES ©Explore
Moscow
42
The Kremlin ...................... 48
Red Square ........................62
Novodevichy Convent & Cemetery .....................104
Pushkin Fine Arts Museum ...................107
Tretyakov Gallery ............123
Danilov Monastery ..........125
Park Poebedy at Poklonnaya Hill ...........149
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour (p111)
TOP SIGHTSMOSCOW’S
43
257
Border Crossing
CyclingFerryMetroMonorailParkingS-Bahn
Train/RailwayTramTube StationU-BahnOther Transport
Cable Car/Funicular
AirportCafeDrinking & Nightlife
Shopping
Entertainment
Eating
Canoeing/KayakingSkiingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Sports &Activities
Diving/Snorkelling
BuddhistCastleChristianHinduIslamicJewishMonumentMuseum/GalleryRuinWinery/VineyardZooOther Sight
Beach
Bus
Taxi
Embassy/Consulate
InternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
Hospital/Medical
Bank
CampingSleeping
Disputed
Regional/Suburb
Marine Park
Cliff
Wall
State/Province
International
Walking TourDetour
Walking Tour
Path
Lane
Tertiary
Freeway
Primary
Steps
Plaza/Mall
PedestrianOverpass
Secondary
Unsealed Road
Tunnel
Tollway
Intermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveReefCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier
River/Creek
LighthouseLookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
Hut/Shelter
Cemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)Park/ForestSportsgroundSight (Building)Top Sight(Building)
Beach/Desert
Map Legend
AreasBoundaries
Hydrography
Geographic
Transport
Information
Drinking & Nightlife
Shopping
Entertainment
Eating
Sleeping
Sports & Activities
Sights Routes
MoscowMaps
258
22
2
22
2
22
2
22
2
22
2
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4 Ar
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p 268
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5 Kh
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6 Ta
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7 Bas
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8 Za
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9 Do
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ills
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259
TVERSKOY Map on p260
æ Top Sights (p75) 24 Filimonova & Yankel 55 Stanislavsky &Bolshoi Theatre............. E6 Fish House ..................C4 Nemirovich-Danchenko
25 Galereya ......................... E4 Musical Theatre .........D5æ Sights (p75) 26 Jagannath .......................F5
1 Central Museum of the 27 Kitezh.............................. E5 þ Shopping (p87)Armed Forces..............E1 28 Korchma Taras Bulba .. E4 56 Atlas.................................F5
2 Church of SS Kosma & 29 Maki Café .......................D5 57 Bustier............................ E5Damian .........................E5 30 Mi Piace..........................D4 58 Detsky Mir...................... F6
3 Church of the Nativity 31 Mi Piace..........................B3 59 Dom Farfora ..................B3of the Virgin in 32 Prime Star...................... E6 60 Dom InostrannoyPutinki .........................D4 33 Service Entrance........... E5 Knigi..............................F5
4 Contemporary History Sisters Grimm ......(see 41) 61 K Faberge........................F5Museum ......................C4 34 Starlite Diner 62 Karpov Chess ................B2
5 Dostoevsky (Tverskoy) ..................D4 63 KhudozhestvennyHouse-Museum...........E1 35 Trattoria Venezia ..........D5 Salon............................ E5
6 Glinka Museum of 36 Uzbekistan..................... F4 64 MasterskayaMusical Culture ..........C3 Varvary................. (see 34) Rosemarie....................F5
7 Gulag History Museum .E5 65 Podium Concept Store .F58 House of Unions............ E6 û Drinking & Nightlife (p84) 66 Respublika .....................C39 M'ARS Contemporary 37 12 Volts...........................D5 Room Arterium ....(see 31)
Art Centre ....................F4 38 ArteFAQ.......................... E5 Russian Bronze ....(see 61)10 MoscowMayor's 39 Bavarius .........................C4 67 Simachyov Boutique &
Office ...........................D5 Café Mart ...............(see 11) Bar................................ E511 MoscowMuseum of 40 Chaikhona No 1 .............D3 68 Transylvania .................. E6
Modern Art (ul 41 Gogol .............................. E5 69 TsUM .............................. E5Petrovka) .................... E4 42 Kukly Pistolety................C1 70 Yekaterina...................... E5
12 Museum of Decorative 43 Pilsner.............................C4 71 Yeliseev Grocery...........D5& Folk Art .................... E3 Simachyov ........... (see 67)
13 State Duma.................... E6 ÿ Sleeping (p173)14 Upper St Peter ý Entertainment (p85) Akvarel.................. (see 67)
Monastery................... E4 44 BB King........................... E3 72 Ararat Park Hyatt.......... F615 Vasnetsov 45 Dome Cinema................. F1 Artel ...................... (see 49)
House-Museum...........F2 46 Durov Animal Theatre...F2 73 Chocolate Hostel ..........D416 Yury Dolgoruky Statue.D5 47 Lenkom Theatre............D4 74 Godzillas Hostel ............ E4
48 Maly Theatre.................. F6 75 Golden Apple .................D4ú Eating (p79) 49 Masterskaya.................. F6 76 Hotel Budapest ............. E5
17 Akademiya..................... E6 50 Moscow Art Theatre 77 Hotel National................ E618 Baltisky Khleb................D4 (MKhT) ........................ E6 78 Hotel Savoy.................... F619 Barashka.........................E5 51 Nikulin Circus on 79 Petrovka Loft................. E520 Courvoisier Cafe ...........G3 Tsvetnoy Bulvar ......... E4 80 Ritz-Carlton Moscow.... E621 Delicatessin ...................D3 52 Novaya Opera................D322 Dodo ................................E5 53 Obraztsov Puppet ï Information (p233)23 Druzhba..........................C2 Theatre & 81 Irish Embassy................G2
Dzhondzholi......... (see 30) Museum ...................... E354 Sanduny Baths...............F5
TVERSKOY
260
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æ Top Sights (p93) 33 Shinok ..........................................................B6Moscow Planetarium .................................E5 34 Soup Cafe.................................................... E2
35 Starlite Diner............................................... F4æ Sights (p92) 36 Suliko ........................................................... E5
1 Art4.ru ......................................................... G6 37 Tsentralny restoranny dom......................D52 Bulgakov House..........................................F4 38 Turandot......................................................G53 CDL ...............................................................E6 Upside Down Cake Co ..................... (see 24)4 Chekhov House-Museum..........................E5 39 Volkonsky.................................................... F45 Church of the Grand Ascension................F66 Church of the Resurrection.......................G5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p99)7 Church of the Small Ascension................ G6 40 Art Lebedev Cafe........................................ F68 Dom Ikony on Spiridonovka......................F6 41 Cafe Margarita.............................................F59 Gorky House-Museum...............................F6 42 Coffee Mania...............................................G6
10 Ice Sculpture Gallery..................................A7 43 Kvartira 44...................................................G611 Lyubavicheskaya Synagogue.................... F5 44 Mayak...........................................................G612 Matryoshka Museum ................................ G6 Radio City ...........................................(see 57)13 MoscowMuseum of Modern Art Real McCoy ....................................... (see 37)
(Tverskoy bul) ..........................................F6 45 Red ............................................................... E214 MoscowMuseum of Modern Art 46 Ryumochnaya.............................................G6
(Yermolayevsky per)...............................F415 Moscow Zoo ................................................D5 ý Entertainment (p100)16 Narkomfin....................................................E6 47 Club Forte....................................................G517 Patriarch's Ponds ....................................... F5 48 Imperia Lounge...........................................A618 Shalyapin House-Museum........................E6 49 Krasnopresnensky Bani ............................C519 Tsereteli Studio-Museum..........................D4 50 Moscow Tchaikovsky20 White House ................................................D6 Conservatory ...........................................G6
51 Sixteen Tons ...............................................C4ú Eating (p96) 52 Tchaikovsky Concert Hall ......................... F4
21 Botanika.......................................................E3Bulka....................................................(see 31) þ Shopping (p101)
22 Café Pushkin ...............................................G5 53 Mostok......................................................... F423 Chagall..........................................................E6 54 Podarky, Dekor & Podarky.........................F524 Corner Burger .............................................E325 Correa's........................................................F3 ÿ Sleeping (p175)26 Correa's........................................................E4 55 Melodiya Hotel............................................ F627 Khachapuri ..................................................G5 56 Nikitskaya Hotel .........................................G628 Mari Vanna................................................... F5 57 Peking Hotel................................................ F429 Nedalny Vostok...........................................G530 Pavilion......................................................... F5 ï Information (p233)31 Ragout..........................................................E3 58 Botkin Hospital ............................................A132 Scandinavia ................................................ G4 59 US Embassy................................................ E6
PRES
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267
ARBAT Map on p268
æ Sights (p109) ý Entertainment (p118)1 Bulat Okudzhava statue.............................C5 23 Gelikon Opera ............................................. E42 Church of the Grand Ascension................E2 24 Rhythm Blues Café ....................................H43 Foreign Affairs Ministry .............................C64 Gogol House................................................F3 þ Shopping (p118)5 House of Friendship with Peoples Army Store........................................ (see 32)
of Foreign Countries................................G3 25 Bukle ............................................................ E56 Lermontov House-Museum......................E3 26 Chocolate Salon .........................................D27 Melnikov House...........................................D5 27 Confael Chocolate.......................................F2Memorial Apartment of Andrey 28 Dom Knigi .................................................... E3Bely .................................................... (see 9) 29 Russian Embroidery & Lace...................... E5
8 Museum of Oriental Art .............................F2 30 Russkie Chasovye Traditsii9 Pushkin House-Museum ...........................C5 (Arbat 11) .................................................. F4
Tochka-G Museum of Erotic Art......(see 21) 31 Russkie Chasovye Traditsii(Arbat 25)................................................. E5
ú Eating (p113) 32 Skazka..........................................................C510 Akademiya...................................................F4 33 Vassa & Co ...................................................F311 Balkon...........................................................C412 Cafe Sindibad.............................................. F2 ÿ Sleeping (p175)13 Genatsvale on Arbat...................................E4 34 Arbat Hotel..................................................D614 Jean-Jacques .............................................. F3 Bulgakov Hotel.................................. (see 35)15 Kishmish ......................................................D3 HM Hostel...........................................(see 10)16 Moo-Moo......................................................D5 35 Home from Home Hostel ..........................C517 Prime Star....................................................F4 36 Hotel Belgrad..............................................B618 Shashlyk Mashlyk.......................................C519 Shesh-Besh .................................................C3 ï Information (p233)20 Vostochny Kvartal ......................................D5 37 Mongolian Embassy...................................D3
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æ Top Sights (p107) 13 Colonna........................................................B4Cathedral of Christ the Saviour ................D3 Galereya Khudozhnikov ....................(see 11)Pushkin Fine Arts Museum........................D2 14 Genatsvale on Ostozhenka.......................C3
15 Il Patio ..........................................................D2æ Sights (p110) Tiflis .................................................... (see 20)
1 Burganov House .........................................C2 16 Vanil..............................................................C32 Gallery of European & American Art of
the 19th & 20th Centuries ......................D2 û Drinking & Nightlife (p118)3 Glazunov Gallery.........................................D2 17 Gogol-Mogol................................................C34 Multimedia Art Museum............................C35 Museum of Private Collections.................D2 þ Shopping (p118)6 Pushkin Literary Museum..........................C3 18 Artefact Gallery Centre .............................B47 Rerikh Museum...........................................D2 19 Byuro Nakhodok.........................................A48 Russian Academy of Arts ..........................B49 Shilov Gallery...............................................D2 ÿ Sleeping (p175)
10 Tolstoy Literary Museum ..........................C3 20 Kebur Palace...............................................B411 Tsereteli Gallery..........................................B4
ï Information (p233)ú Eating (p115) 21 Canadian Embassy ....................................B2
12 Akademiya...................................................D2
KHAM
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æ Top Sights (p136) 7 Beryozka.......................................................B1Bunker-42....................................................B2 8 Yolki-Palki....................................................B3
æ Sights (p139) û Drinking & Nightlife (p143)1 Ecclesiastic Residence...............................C5 Vysotsky...............................................(see 5)2 Museum of the Russian Icon.....................A23 Novospassky Monastery ...........................B4 ý Entertainment (p144)4 Rublyov Museum of Early Russian 9 Illuzion Cinema ............................................A1
Culture & Art ............................................ D1 10 Taganka Theatre ........................................B25 Vysotsky Cultural Centre...........................B2
ï Transport (p229)ú Eating (p141) 11 Novospassky Most
6 American Bar & Grill................................... B1 Landing .....................................................B5
TAGANKA
272
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BASM
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BASMAN
NY
274
BASMANNY Map on p272
æ Sights (p136) 32 Music Town ................................................. E31 51 Pirogi on Maroseyka..............................C5 33 New Ballet ...................................................G22 ArtPlay on Yauza.........................................G7 34 PirOGI on Maroseyka.................................C53 Choral Synagogue ......................................C6 35 Rolan Cinema..............................................D44 Menshikov Tower........................................C45 Sakharov Museum...................................... F7 þ Shopping (p144)6 Taste of Russia Cooking Courses.............E6 36 Art Salon on Maroseyka............................B57 Winzavod .................................................... G6 37 Bel Postel.....................................................B2
38 Biblio-Globus............................................... B5ú Eating (p139) 39 Bookhunter .................................................C4
Art Clumba........................................... (see 2) Factory-Expedition.............................(see 11)8 Avocado .......................................................D4 40 Ikony-Podarky.............................................B49 bilingua.........................................................C4 41 Magazin Chai-Kofe.....................................C3
10 Dacha on Pokrovka.....................................D6 42 Masha Tsigal Showroom...........................D711 Expedition....................................................D7 43 Odensya dlya schastya.............................. E412 Liudi kak Liudi..............................................C6 44 RosOkhranKultura ..................................... C713 Maharaja ......................................................C5 45 Salon Podarkov ..........................................B414 Moo-Moo......................................................B4 Shaltai-Boltai .......................................(see 7)15 Noev Kovcheg .............................................D6 46 Tricotage Club ............................................D516 Pasta & Basta..............................................B317 Shatyor.........................................................D4 ÿ Sleeping (p177)18 Sherbet.........................................................B2 47 Basilica Hotel ..............................................D719 Syrnaya Dyrka.............................................D5 48 Bentley Hotel .............................................. E420 Volkonsky ....................................................B5 49 Boulevard Hotel..........................................B3
50 Comrade Hostel .........................................C5û Drinking & Nightlife (p142) 51 Napoleon Hostel.........................................C5
21 Art Lebedev Cafe ........................................C4 52 Sretenskaya Hotel......................................B222 Cafe Didu .....................................................C4 53 Sukharevka Mini-Hotel ...............................C123 Central Station MSK....................................E1 54 Sverchkov-8................................................C424 Coffee Bean.................................................D5 55 Trans-Siberian Hostel................................ E525 Discoteque...................................................G526 Krizis Zhanra ...............................................D5 ï Information (p233)
Petrovich............................................(see 28) 56 36.6 ..............................................................C527 Propaganda.................................................B5 57 Alfa-Bank.....................................................A628 Red................................................................C4 58 Australian Embassy................................... D7
Secret .................................................(see 25) 59 Belarus Embassy........................................C529 Solyanka.......................................................C730 Tema Bar .....................................................D4 ï Transport (p228)
60 Aeroflot........................................................B4ý Entertainment (p144) 61 Transaero ....................................................D2
31 Art Garbage .................................................C5
BASM
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275
ZAMOSKVORECHIE Map on p276
æ Top Sights (p123) 23 Pilsner ..........................................................D5New Tretyakov Gallery...............................B4 24 Progressive Daddy & Daddy's Terrace ...C3Tretyakov Gallery........................................D3 25 Rolling Stone...............................................C3
æ Sights (p126) ý Entertainment (p132)1 Art Muzeon Sculpture Park.......................C4 26 Dome............................................................C32 Bakhrushin Theatre Museum ...................G5 27 Garage Club ................................................D43 Church of St John the Warrior..................C5 28 Gorky Park Skating Rink ...........................B64 Church of the Resurrection at Kadashi ...E2 29 Moscow International House of Music....H45 Dom na Naberezhnoy ................................C2 30 Strelka Institute for Architecture,Igor Kormyshev................................... (see 9) Media & Design........................................C2
6 Lumiere Brothers Photography Centre...C37 Ostrovsky Estate-Museum Schelykovo ..E3 þ Shopping (p133)8 Peter the Great Statue...............................C3 31 Art Market ...................................................B5
Pobeda Gallery.................................. (see 25) 32 Central House of Artists (TsDKh) ...........B49 Red October ................................................C3 33 Poradky........................................................ E5
Russkaya Ulitsa ...................................(see 9)ú Eating (p129) Zazki-Petski....................................... (see 25)
10 Correa's........................................................E411 Grably ...........................................................E2 Ø Sports & Activities (p230)12 Korchma Taras Bulba ................................E2 34 Oliver Bikes ................................................. E213 Pancho Villa .................................................C514 Prime Star....................................................E2 ÿ Sleeping (p176)15 Produkty ......................................................C3 35 Alrosa on Kazachy...................................... E416 Shesh-Besh .................................................E3 36 Hotel Baltschug Kempinski........................E117 Sok................................................................D3 37 Ibis Paveletskaya.........................................F718 Starlite Diner ...............................................D6 38 Ozerkovskaya Hotel...................................G419 Suliko............................................................D5 39 Red Arrow....................................................C3
40 Red Dawn ....................................................C2û Drinking & Nightlife (p130) 41 Swissôtel Krasnye Holmy .........................H5
Bar Strelka.........................................(see 30) 42 Warsaw Hotel..............................................C620 Chaikhona No 1 ..........................................A6
Coffee Bean....................................... (see 14) ï Information (p233)21 GQ Bar...........................................................E1 43 36.6 .............................................................. E3
Kvartira 44 ........................................ (see 27) 44 Cafemax ...................................................... E322 Lebedinoe Ozero ........................................A7 45 French Embassy.........................................C5
ZAMOSKVO
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#eæ Top Sights (p149)
Borodino Panorama.....................................C2Memorial Synagogue at Poklonnaya Hill...A3Museum of the Great Patriotic War ...........A3Park Pobedy ..................................................A4Triumphal Arch .............................................B3
æ Sights (p150)1 Church of St George.....................................B32 Church of the Intercession at Fili.................B13 Moscow State University (MGU)................C64 Mosfilm...........................................................C45 Obelisk............................................................B36 Vorobyovy Gory Nature Preserve ..............D5
ú Eating (p151)Darbar .................................................. (see 20)
7 Dorogomilovsky Market ..............................D2Evropeysky Shopping Centre ............ (see 17)
8 Pinocchio Bar & Cafe ...................................D29 Pinocchio on Kutuzovsky .............................E1
û Drinking & Nightlife (p152)10 Probka............................................................ E211 Sky Lounge.....................................................F5
ý Entertainment (p152)12 Bolshoi Circus on Vernadskogo..................C7
Evropeysky Skating Rink .................... (see 17)13 Fomenko Studio Theatre.............................C214 Krysha Mira ....................................................D115 Kuklachev Cat Theatre.................................D216 Moscow Children's Musical Theatre..........D7
þ Shopping (p152)17 Evropeysky Shopping Centre ..................... E218 Gorbushka Shopping Centre ......................A219 Valentin Yudashkin Boutique......................D2
ÿ Sleeping (p176)20 Hotel Sputnik................................................. E621 Korston Hotel ................................................ E622 Radisson Royal (Hotel Ukraine)...................E1
ï Information (p233)23 Cafemax......................................................... E224 Chinese Embassy .........................................B525 German Embassy .........................................B5
ï Transport (p231)26 Radisson River Cruises.................................E1
DORO
GOM
ILOVO & SPARROW
HILLS
Day One Kremlin & Kitay Gorod (p 46 )
M Arrive at the Kremlin ticket offi ce at 9.30am sharp to reserve your times
to enter the Armoury and Ivan the Great Bell Tower. Dedicate your morning to ad-miring the amazing architecture, gawking at the gold and gems and climbing the tower for sweeping city views. End your Kremlin visit with a stroll through Alexander Gar-den and a stop to witness the changing of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Exiting Alexander Garden, jump right into the queue on Red Square for Len-in’s Tomb before it closes at 1pm.
Kremlin & Kitay Gorod (p 46 )
R If you eat at Bosco, linger as long as you like, ogling the Kremlin spires
and St Basil’s domes. If you wish to see what goes on inside the cathedral, you can do so after lunch. Otherwise, stroll through the ancient streets of Kitay Gorod, discover-ing the countless 17th-century churches.
Tverskoy (p 73 )
N Get tickets in advance to see a clas-sic opera or a contemporary ballet
at the world-famous Bolshoi Theatre. Or pamper yourself with a steam at the Banya at Sanduny.
Lunch Have lunch at Bosco Cafe (p 70 ); or at Stolovaya 57 (p 70 ).
Dinner Dine at a restaurant on ul Petrovka, like Barashka (p 79 ).
Day Two Khamovniki (p 102 )
M A beautiful 17th-century bell tower is the beacon that will guide you to the
historic fortress of Novodevichy Convent, which contains nearly fi ve centuries of histo-ry. After admiring the art and architecture, head next door to the eponymous cemetery, where many famous political and cultural fi gures are laid to rest.
Dorogomilovo (p 147 )
R Make your way across the river to Kievsky vokzal, where you can hop
on board the ferry (p 231 ) that cruises the Moscow River. The 90-minute trip takes you past Novodevichy Convent, Gorky Park, the Church of Christ the Saviour, Red October and the Kremlin, before turning around at Novospassky Monastery.
Arbat (p 102 )
N Imagine you are in a traditional Geor-gian mountain village – at Genats-
vale on Arbat it’s not so diffi cult to do, as the restaurant provides the setting, as well as the delectable Georgian fare. After dinner you can stroll along Moscow’s most famous street – the Arbat – enjoying the talents of buskers and the atmosphere of old Moscow.
Lunch Indulge in a delicious sweet or savoury pie from Stolle (p 117 ).
Dinner Sample scrumptious Georgian cuisine at Genatsvale on Arbat (p 113 ).
Top Itineraries
16
Day Three Zamoskvorechie (p 121 )
M Get an early start to beat the crowds to the Tretyakov Gallery. Take
your time inspecting the icons, examining the Peredvizhniki, marvelling at the Rus-sian Revival and ogling the avant-garde.
Zamoskvorechie (p 121 )
R After lunch, stroll over to Art Muz-eon Sculpture Park, where you
can stand eye-to-eye with the Soviet heroes and admire their more whimsical contem-porary counterparts. Then head across the street to Gorky Park for an afternoon of bicycle riding or boat paddling. At the southern end of the park, Chaikhona No 1 off ers the perfect place to regroup.
Zamoskvorechie (p 121 )
N The former Red October factory is now the city’s hottest nightlife spot,
jam-packed with eating, drinking and entertainment venues. Let yourself wander, stopping here for drinks, there for dinner, and somewhere else for dessert. Explore the galleries. Rock the bar scene. Have fun.
Lunch Grably (p 129 ) and vegetarian Sok (p 129 ) for a post-museum meal.
Dinner Snag a table on the rooftop terrace at Strelka Bar (p 130 ).
Day Four Izmailovo (p 138 )
M Reserve the morning for shopping at the Vernisage Market, crammed
with souvenir stalls selling everything from silver samovars to Soviet propaganda posters to modern pop-culture matriosh-kas. Inside the Kremlin at Izmailovo, you can also learn about the art of mak-ing vodka (and sample the results) at the Vodka History Museum.
Izmailovo (p 138 )
R For the afternoon, you have booked a tour of Stalin’s Bunker, hidden
away underneath the All-Union stadium. If you’re not able to make these arrange-ments, you can head over to Izmailovsky Park for a picnic and a walk in the woods.
Presnya (p 90 )
N End your time in Moscow with an evening at Pushkin Cafe, Moscow’s
best place to sample old-fashioned Russian cuisine. Indulge in a multicourse medley that might include bliny (crepes) with caviar, a hearty soup, meat or fi sh in a rich sauce, and plenty of vodka shots. If you’re still standing afterwards, enjoy an after-dinner drink and a fabulous vista from O2 Lounge in the Ritz-Carlton Moscow.
Lunch Izmaylovo market is famous for the grilled shashlyk (kebabs).
Dinner Reserve your table for an haut russe feast at Café Pushkin (p 96 ).
17PLAN
YOUR TRIP TO
P IT
INER
AR
IES
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